Vest - Everything About A Legend

Author: ChapCheng hung4eyes@gmail.com hung.
4eyes Tel: 0932299448
VEST
EVERYTHING ABOUT A LEGEND
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Author: ChapCheng hung4eyes@gmail.com hung.4eyes Tel: 0932299448
CHNG I LCH S CA COMPLE VEST 1.1. TNG QUAN V COMPLE VEST to thnh cng ngha ca chng thay i qua thi gian) T Suit (Comple) c ngun gc t t French Suite (T in oxford) c ngha l Theo sau, t mt vi t Latin c c chuyn th t ng t Latinh Sequor = ti i theo, bi v thnh phn ca cc t (o khoc, qun v o gile) theo sau nhau v c cng mt kiu vi v c mc cng nhau. Mt b comple (trong ngha ny) ngha l che ph ton b c th ngi mc, thut ng Comple hin ti c m rng ra thnh sn phm may duy nht m che ph hu ht c th ngi nh l: Boilersuit ( Hay coverall) l kiu sn phm 1 chi tit vi o di tay v qun di nhng thng t b st)
1.1.1. T nguyn hc (Etymology: Mn hc nghin cu v lch s ca cc t v cch
1.1.2. Khi qut chung B comple ca nam gii, trong ngha v b trang phc trang trng hoc trang phc kinh doanh hay b Vest cng s, l mt b sn phm may mc, nhng sn phm m c lm t chung 1 cht liu vi. Trong phn ny xin php c tho lun v lch s ca trang phc Vest trang trng ca nam gii m thng c gi l Business Suit (B Comple s dng trong mi trng kinh doanh) khi c lm t cht liu vi ti mu v ct va, m st c th.
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Comple hin i 1.1.3. S lc lch s B comple l kiu trang phc truyn thng ca nam gii (trang phc trang trng) ti phng Ty ca th gii. Trong khong 400 nm, kiu comple o chong, qun v o gile b li thi. S ra i ca kiu trang phc comple trang trng ca nam gii ban u xut hin vi nhng ng k bn ngoi vi mu sc sng, kiu trang tr theo phong cch hong gia t m v chi tit (Comple, tc gi, qun ng tm gi), l kiu m b b i bi cuc cch mng Php. Cuc cch mng ny c nhn thy nhng iu i mi hn trong phong cch may o ti Anh quc vi vic s dng my hi nc v ming m trong vic to hnh trang phc, xp r ca n c, v s dn b i o gile v m trong 50 nm cui.
Comple phng Ty th k17 Kiu trang phc trang trng hin i xut hin cui th k 19, nhng du tch ca n li c hnh thnh theo tiu chun n gin ha may mc c thit lp bi vua Anh quc Charles II trong th k 17. Nm 1666, vng quc khi phuc, vua Charles II, ra ch nh rng trong cc phin ta ca Anh Quc th tt c cc ngi n ng phi mc o chong di, 1 o gile (sau ny c gi l Petticoat), 1 chic cravat (Tin thn ca khn buc c), 1 b tc gi v qun ng tm gi v 1 ci m.
1.2.
S PHT TRIN V THAY I CA COMPLE QUA CC THI K Triu i vua Edward Tam, thi i m khi nim v may mc u tin xut
1.2.1. Triu i vua Edward III v Charles II hin, mc d t ny khng c hiu lc cho n tn cui th k 13. Ti ti thi gian th qun o khng c to hnh qua vic ct v to dng, nhng lng hoc qu cht, v th nn mi ngi mang dng dp nh ca thy tu. l thi k phc hng v lut nhn o nn thay i cch m mi ngi mun mnh c nhn ngm. Kiu o di tht ngang lng (o ngoi chng, (thng) khng c ng tay, trm n tn u gi v i khi tht lng bng dy lng (nh) ngi c Hy lap v La m mc) v kiu o thy tu c lm ngn li, b hn, ct v may theo ng vin c th.
Ci nhn mi ny chng minh nhng cm nhn kh chu ca ca nam gii v nhng yu cu tn nghim i vi nhng nhng ngi nh ng vi kiu qun o nh th. Nhng quan st vin ca Php quy cho chin thng Anh trong trn chin Crecy nm 1346 l s trng pht chng li quan im ca h khi n mc kiu qun o nh th. Italy b thay th phong cch bi Ty Ban Nha, ni m thit lp s thanh lch cho gam mu en. nc Anh th mu en c kt hp vi mu kem, mu sc m hin ti vn l cng thc cho s gp g trang trng. Ty Ban Nha dn dn loi b s thng tr ca vn ha Php, t nhng b tc gi ti nhng i giy gn bc, nhng qu ng Ty Ban Nha tr nn ho nhong vi nhung, gm v ren. Vua Charles II, tr v t chuyn lu vong sau thi k Cromwellia, quyt nh sng to ra mt vi th m c phn bit r rng ti Anh, v iu ny s kt thc s thay i bt thng ca thi trang bng vic chp nhn kiu phong cch khng gii hn. Ngy 03 thng hai nm 1661, Samuel Peys, con trai ca mt th may, trnh din trang phc ca mnh vi di ti gi v rng ri m dng mi ny ca n thay th kiu o tht di ngang lng.
S xut hin ca mu o Gile ct thng canh, va vn xut hin nm 1666. N c to pht trin theo hng c nhn bi nh vua, v khng bao lu sau, mi ngi mc loi o Gile ny. Nm 1670, kiu o vy tm ng c thay th bi phong cch nh gn hn, ct ngn ti gi. l thi im m kiu trang phc Comple 3 chi tit c gii thiu mt cch chnh thc ln u tin v n tn by gi.
S quy nh n mc ti Php trong nhng phin ta ti Versailles vn l yu cu trong x hi cp cao. Khng ging nh nhng ngi anh em ca mnh, nhng tng lp cao cp ti Anh quc khng mt thi gian nhiu vo cc phin ta m a thch hn v bt ng sn. Sn bn l s thch ca h, v v th kiu trang phc hin ti gy ra nhiu kh khn leo ln lng nga, v th mt vi iu cn phi thay i. y chnh l im mu cht m nhng qu ng Anh quc ng gp mt cch to ln cho nn vn minh tng lai. Kiu hnh thu kim tuyn v gm c thay th bng vi n gin v c thit k to s thoi mi cho vic di chuyn. Mt kiu o chong bng len c dt dy bi ngi dn min qu thu ht c s ch ca qu tc. Mu sc ca nm 1770 c iu chnh ti mt mc m mu nu tr nn ph bin n mc i vo ngn ng nh l mt s m t v nhng ci n iu hoc gam mu ti.
1.2.2. Thi nhip chnh (Hong t George IV thay Vua cai tr) Nm 1795, George Bryan Brummel (Beau Brummell cng t nc Anh. Sinh ngy 17/6/1778 mt thng 3-1880 (61 tui), l ngi nm ton quyn i vi thi trang nam gii trong thi nhip chnh Anh v l bn ca hong t nhip chnh, v vua tng lai George IV. Beau Brummell c ghi nhn vi s gii thiu v thit lp v thi trang nam gii hin i, vi vic tht thm 1 chic cravat trong trang phc. ng ta tuyn b phi mt 5h ng h n mc, nh bng i bt vi ru sm panh. Phong cch ca ng ta c bit n nh l tnh thch n din v qu ho nhong.
Beau Brummell 1778 - 1880 Brummell to ra s hiu bit v tng lai ca vua George, hong t x Wale, v m hoc anh ta vi s thng minh v hiu bit v cm nhn phong cch ca mnh. Mc d phng ng v b tha nhng hong t nh hc sinh l minh chng cho cc li ch dy ca Brummel, nhng li l v s chnh xc v cch thc ct ca o khoc hay s h nguyn liu khng th ph nhn c.
Brummell thit lp nhng quy tc mi. Cht lng tr thnh th g m ngi ta bit n khi nhn thy n, nhng n rt kh m t. Ri ti vic ct, ph hp v chnh xc mt cch sc so tng chi tit cng nh mi quan h huyn b ca 1 ngi n ng vi th may. Ngi ta ni rng qun o ca Brummel c bit v n dng nh l ha ln vo bn trong mi ngi vi nhng ng ct hon ho v s hi ha v mu sc. Trong u thp nin 1800, Brummell nh ngha li v thch nghi vi phong cch ny, sau ph bin n, dn n vic n ng chu u mc nhng trang phc c ct va vn, may o, trang tr vi khn qung c c tht nt cn thn.
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S n gin ca kiu qun o mi cng vi nhng mu sc tng phn mnh m vi nt chi tri. S nh hng ca Brummell c hnh thnh v tn ti ti ngy nay trong k nguyn ca trang phc nam gii, ci m hin ti c thm cravat v nhng nt ca comple hin i.
Trong thi gian nhip chnh ny, trang phc ca cc tng lp thng lu c thi thiu bi Brummell vi kiu thng phc l: kiu qun o b vi mu ti, vt ui o chong c mu ti so vi qun (Thng thng l nht hn), o gile xm, o s mi trng v cravat v i ng cao.
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Theo sau ngi tr tui Brummell, cc th may ca London pht trin k thut to form dng cho sn phm may mc ca Anh quc nh l phng tin ngh thut iu khc. S kiu ngo, thng minh v tn c ca Brummell cho cc hong t xa lnh v c bc ph hy cuc i ng ta, nhng nhng s ng gp ca ng ta tr thnh nhng chun mc cho phong cch n mc p ca nam gii cho ti tn ngy nay. Ngay c s u tin ca ng ta vi mu xanh da tri tn ti v m rng ti mc m ngy nay kiu comple navy (xanh hi qun) tr thnh ng phc trong hng triu ngi trong th k 20.
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1.2.3. Thi i Victoria. ( N hong Victoria1837-1901) Thi i Victoria ca Vng quc Anh l thi k ca triu i n hong Victoria's t thng 6 nm 1837 cho n khi b qua i vo ngy 22 thng 1 nm 1901. Triu i c mt thi gian di em li s thnh vng cho nhn dn Anh, v li nhun thu c t vic thuc a ca Anh quc, cng nh t cc ci tin cng nghip ti gia nh.
N hong Victoria (1837-1901) Ti thi im bt u ca thi i Victoria, chic o chong di ban u khng ch l mu en, tr nn ph bin v nhanh chng tr thnh chun mc cho trang phc thng ngy ca nhng qu ng. T gia th k th 19, 1 kiu o chong l o ui tm cng c chp nhn. l sn phm t mang tnh trnh trng hn, vi 1 ng ct thn trc, to nn s ph hp cho ngi mc khi ci nga.
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Frock coat Kiu Morning dress v frock coat khng phi l comple, bi v chng c mc vi 1 ci qun khc mu, 1 o gile b v 1 ci qun c coi l khng trang trng, nhng kiu qun o ny c m t nh l kiu qun o c tui th ngn. Kiu Frock coat vn l tiu chun ca sn phm may mc cho mi tnh hung giao tip thng mi, v 1 o chong c vt ui c mc vo bui chiu ti.
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Dress coat Ti th k 19, kiu trang phc comple lch s c ra i nh l thng phc c ngha l ch c mc khi chi th thao, trong vng qu hoc ti bi bin. Song song vi iu ny, kiu Dinner jacket cng c thit k ra v c mc trong nhng s kin trang trng vo cc bui ti.
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Dinner Jacket l s k tc ca trang phc white tie (Cravat trng) nhng nhanh chng tr thnh kiu sn phm hon ton mi, kiu Dinner jacket, m lc ban u c gi l dress lounge v sau ny l Black tie. Khi n c du nhp vo Hoa k, n tr thnh kiu Tuxedo. Kiu Dress lounge ban u ch c mc trong nhng bui gp g ring t nh v kiu White tie (cravat trng) vn c mc trong cc i s kin. Kiu dress lounge dn tr thnh ph bin hn trong cc s kin nh l s thay th cho bui ti n mc sang trong kiu cravat trng.
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Dress lounge 1.2.4. Thi i Edward (Vua Edward 1841 1914) Thi i vua Edward ti Anh Quc l thi i bao gm triu i ca Vua Edward VII, 1901 n 1910.
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Vua Edward 1841 1914 Ci cht ca n hong Victoria vo thng 1 nm 1910 v s thnh cng ca con trai b, vua Edward, to ra s bt u mt th k mi v s kt thc ca thi i Victoria. S bt u ca thi i Edward vo u nhng nm 1900 mang n 1 s thay i mnh m trong hnh thc mc nhng chic Frock coat nh l chic o khoc mc trong bui sng v chnh thc c chp nhn vi cc doanh nhn, sau tr thnh tiu chun n mc chung, ngay c trong th trn.
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Frock coat Kiu Comple sang trng c t t chp nhn chnh xc nh dng ban u ca n v trong sut thi i Edward th n dn dn c thy trong th trn. Trong th n vn phc v cho cc cuc gp mt ni b, thng l khng c ph n, kiu n en tr nn ph bin hn. 1.2.5. Lin chin tranh Sau khi chin tranh th gii th nht kt thc, hu ht nam gii n vn kiu o khoc ngoi ngn. Kiu o khoc ngoi di nhanh chng b li thi trong thng phc hng ngy v kinh doanh, v kiu o ui tm tr li kiu phn loi hin thi l Trang trng. Trong sut nm 1920, nhng kiu o Vest ngn lun c mc tr nhng dp trang
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trng vo thi im ban ngy; nhng nam gii tham gia nhng cuc i thoi vn mc nhng chic o ui tm. M th trong cc cuc gp g bui ti, kiu Dinner jacket ngn hu nh c thay th bng trang phc o c ui di v ch c mc bi nhng ngi nhng ngi i thoi gi. Anh, kiu cravat en c chp nhn nh l s thay th 1 cch tng quan khng c tnh nghi thc cho cravat trng, tuy nhin th thi im th phong cch v ph kin ca trang phc Black tie vn rt hay thay i.
Trong thp nin 1920, nam gii bt u mc qun ng sun vi o vest ca h. Nhng chic qun ny thng thng c o l 23inch quanh vng gu. Nhng ngi n ng tr thng mc nhng chic qun to hn, nhng chic qun m vn c gi l Ti Oxford.
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Qun ng sun vi ti Oxford Nhng chic qun ny cng ng thi c mc ngn hn sau chin tranh th gii th nht v phong cch ny vn tip tc cho ti tn chin tranh th gii th 2. Nhng chic qun bt u c mc nhiu hn trong thp nin 1920. Nhng chic qun c mc vi cp cao trong thp nin 1920 v kiu Vest hng cc i c mc bi nhng ngi n ng ln tui hn. Trong nm 1920, nhng ngi n ng n mc thi trang thng mc Vest hng cc i (C 4 cc mi bn) tng bn thn o. Ve o hp
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thi trang hn v c to rng. Vo u thp nin 1930, nhng kiu ny vn c s dng tip tc v thm ch c cng iu qu mc. Trc thp nin 1935 (v lp li trong thp nin 1970), nam gii a thch loi o b st v o gile, tuy nhin, xu hng ch o sau th li l ni lng s b st ny. Trong nm 1935, mt s thay i phong cch hon ton mi xut hin. Nhng chic o rng c gii thiu, qun ty bt u lm thon vng ng v o Vest bt u lm thon phn cnh tay. Nhng xu hng mi ny lc u ch c nam gii chp nhn. u tin th o Gile tip c thit k theo phong cch truyn thng thoi mi v ph hp. n nm 1940, o Gile bt u c thit k rng hn, iu ny khin cho n tr nn thoi mi khi mc. Cng trong thi gian ny, kiu Morning Dress c thay th bng kiu trang phc bn chnh thc m vn c gi m l Stroller (Black lounge). N kh ph bin nhng thc t l thi gian tn ti khng th bng vi Morning dress kiu trang phc vn c mc, trong khi th Stroller phn ln bin mt
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Stroller (Black lounge)
1.2.6. Hu chin Xuyn sut thp nin 1940 v 1950, xu hng n mc c n gin ha v hin i ha i vi Vest tr nn mnh m. V d l thp nin 1960, kch thc ca ve o co li mt c rt nh. Thn chnh c ct dc canh thng nht c th m khng c du hiu no ca ng vng eo. S nh mc vi thay i v phong cch 1 cch ng k, gp phn ln trong vic gim cc ng ct trn sn phm may, chng hn nh o Vest hng cc i.
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Vest 1960 Cui thp nin 1960 v 1970, phong cch Nehru Jacket c mc bi 1 vi ngi nc M.
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Nehru Jacket Trong thp nin 1970, kiu comple b st tr nn ph bin 1 ln na v phong cch ny li chp nhn s quay tr li ca o Gile. Kiu phong cch o Vest 3 chi tit mi ny tr nn c mi lin kt vi nhc Disco v vn ha ca n, n xut hin c bit ph bin trong b phim Saturday Night Ever, trong phim th o Gile c s dng l thi trang c bn. Kiu Vest b st 3 chi tit b nh ng vi vn ha v trng. S phn ng d di ca x hi bo th phn i d di li nn vn ha disco v kt thc s ph bin ca phong cch thi trang ny.
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Nm 1980 chng kin s ra i ca s n gin ha thi trang 1 ln na. Cc kiu o Vest tr nn lng hn v o Gile hon ton b b i. Mt vi nh thit k o Vest tip tc thit k o Gile, nhng n thng c ct rt ngn v thng ch c 4 cc. ng vng eo trn o Vest c h thp ti v tr kh l tng di eo. Nm 19851986, o Vest 3 chi tit trn con ng tm kim ra cch ct tr thnh kiu o Vest 2 hng cc v kiu 1 hng cc 2 chi tit (o v qun)
Vest 3 chi tit (Vest+Gile+Qun) u thp nin 2000 chng kin s tr li mnh m ca kiu o Vest 2 chi tit v 3 cc, kiu phong cch m b li thi khi thp k trc s dng. 1.2.7. Comple n gii
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Comple n gii 1660 Kiu Comple u tin ca n gii vi trang phc ci nga, trang phc ny bao gm mt o khoc v vy ph hp xut hin t u 1660. Thc dng v bn chc, trang phc ci nga ny khng ch c mc khi ci nga m cn i du lch vo cc bui ban ngy khc. Kiu trang phc Vest khng dnh cho vic ci nga th xut hin vo cui th k th 19. C 2 kiu trang phc dnh cho ci nga v i do li u phn nh kiu vy v phong cch tay o ca ngy nay. Trong na u ca th k 20, kiu Vest vy tr nn ph bin trong cc kiu trang phc ban ngy trong thnh ph, ni lm vic v i chi...dnh cho n gii; nhng nh thit k th hin phong cch Vest vy vi c trng vi mm mi v n tnh n tng chi tit, v kiu Cocktail vest c mc trong nhng dp bn nghi thc trong thi gian gia th k.
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Di nh hng ca cun sch Dress for success (vy cho s thnh cng), ng phc ca 1 ngi ph na bao gm Vy Vest, o s mi may o v khn qun c mm c pht trin trong thp nin 1970 1980. Kiu Vest qun (o Vest v qun) c gii thiu bi nh thit k Andr Courrges vo nm 1964 nhng n ch c dn chp nhn nh l mt trang phc kinh doanh mang tnh nghi thc.
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Vest vy v Vest qun 1.2.8. nh hng ca hnh thc n mc gin d Hn 1 na th k qua, hnh thc n mc cc loi vest tr nn t ph bin hn n ngy trc v by gi n gn nh b hn ch hon ton phc v cho nhng hot ng kinh doanh. Trong thp nin 1960, nhiu doanh nghip Bc M thng qua quy tc n mc gin d, bt u vi th su gin d ri sau l c tun kinh doanh. Vic t b hnh thc n mc ng phc dn ti nhng s nhm ln ng k v cu c coi l thch hp trong n mc kinh doanh. Gn y, mt s cc doanh nghip huy ng li phong cch n mc nh xa mc d h bit n khng th no c th ph bin nh trc na. Mt xu hng tng t cng xut hin Chu u. 1.2.9. Xu hng ng i Mc d nhng thit k may o Vest ca nam gii c coi l nhng trang phc mang tnh bo th ca vn ha phng Ty. Nhng kiu cch iu qu mc trong nhng b Vest may o c chp nhn bi nhiu np sinh hot qua th k cui cng nh l
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mt vn ca x hi ng nht. u nm 1922, mt ngi ph n l Emily Post d gii quyt nhng g c cho l Vest M ng bng trong hng dn v s nh hng nghi thc. C th nhn thy kiu ny khp mi ni: Sn khu ca tt c cc thnh ph, th trn, trc ng chnh, cc bi bin v thm ch l trong lng. N hin ra v xut hin trc mt bn sau hng nm vi dng thay i n kinh ngc: ng may eo di nch, nhng dy lng nho nh, nhng th linh tinh trn bc tay, qun b ti mc bn cm thy s nh c cm gic n rch ra, v tr ti th c t mi ch, cc cc th may vo cng mt ch hp hoc gim bt i. Nhng phong cch tin b kiu th ny khng th phn nh th hiu mang tnh quc t hoc l nghi trang trng. Mt vi kiu Vest khng theo truyn thng trong th k trc bao gm: + Kiu Jazz Suit ca u thp nin 1920 vi eo rt cao v b st c mc vi qun c cp rt cao v ng qun ngn, l ra tt ca ngi mc.
+ Kiu Zoot Suit ca cui nm 1930 v thp nin 1940 Zoot suit: l mt b comple vi eo o cao, ng rng, vng ng tm, ng chun, v 1 ci o Vest di vi ve o v m vai rng. Phong cch ny tr nn ph bin bi nhng ngi M gc Phi, M latinh, ngi M gc v ngi M gc Philipin trong sut thp nin 1930 v 1940. Ti nc Anh th kiu Zoot suit vi gam mu sng vi ve o bng
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nhung iu to ra 1 s tng ng nh vi kiu trang phc thi Edward c mc bi phong cch Teddy boys
Teddy Boys suit (Tiu vn ha Anh Teddy boy l phong cch c ghi nhn bi nhng ngi thanh nin tr a thch kiu phong cch y cm hng ca thi k Edward. Teddy boys c chp nhn bi nhng ngi tr tui trong vic to cho h mt v b ngoi a nhn vi phong cch n mc p thay v lm vic hay i hc. Kiu trang phc ny tr nn ph bin t sau chin tranh. Teddy boy mc 1 chic o Frock coat, thng l ti mu, i khi vi c nhung v ti c np, qun cp cao, va ng v gu qun th nh li, dao dng t 9-20 ty theo c, thng h ra tt sng mu. o s mi c cao, rng v cao)
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Zoot suit Mt b comple Zoot suit c co cao, ng rng v tm li phn chn ng v c 1 o khoc ngoi di vi ve o ln v m vai rng. Thng th nhng ngi mc b Zoot suit i 1 chic m n vi 1 ci lng di v im nhn, giy theo phong cch Php.
+ Kiu Vest Min Ty: Western Suit: l mt kiu trang phc ca nam v n gii c phong cch ring bt ngun t kiu qun o c mc trong th k th 19 pha Ty ca nc M.
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Nudie Suit: Nudie Cohn (15/12/1902 9/5/1984) l mt ngi M-Do thi, gc Ukraina , l 1 th may ...c bit n vi vic nm kim cng trang tr trn nhng b comple v trang tr cho nhng trang phc khoc ngoi c s dng bi nhng ngi ni ting nh l Elvis Presley, Porter Wagoner.... y l hnh thc n mc ca phng Ty vi 1 chic o khoc ngoi mang c th min Ty nh l ti c trang tr u nhn hnh mi tn.
Western Suit + Kiu Vest Nudie, mt mu trang tr cao cp t Vest phng Ty
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+ Kiu Vest ng phc The Beatles, ly cm hng t o khoc khng c ca Piere Cardins, xut pht t o Vest thi Edward.
Beatles suit
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+ Kiu Vest Mod, thi trang ca thp nin 1960. c trng l nhng ng ct mnh, ve o nh, c 4 cc v c phn eo o thon mnh m. Thng c 2 cc. Thng thng vi o c cha n angora.
Mod Suit + Cc loi o Vest Safari (ng phc i sn), mt kiu thi trang ca thp nin 1970. Ly nhng mu qun phc c mc trong kh hu nng gm c qun ( di nhng i khi ngn) v o chong c tay o ngn v nhng ti p vi vi sng mu, thng thng sc thi ca mu sc ti l mu xanh da tri hoc xanh l cy. c mc vi o s mi ngn tay, phn ln l c h nhng i khi c tht cravat. Mt kiu phong cch khc cng c lin quan ti kiu Vest ny l kiu Vest Leisure, y l kiu Vest c o s mi vi tay o ko di.
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+ Kiu Vest Disco, thi trang ca thp nin 1970 vi ve o qu c v qun ng vy, thng khng c cravat. Cht liu vi thng dng l Polyester mu trng hoc sng mu. o Vest da trn kiu Vest ph bin ca thp nin 1930.
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+ Kiu Mandarin hay Nehr, mt phong cch n gin khng c cravat, tr thnh ph bin t cui thp nin 1990 v 2000. Nehru Jacket l kiu o khoc ngoi c hng di dnh cho nam v n gii, vi c o ng, v c m hnh ha trn kiu Achkan ca Nam
Achkan (mt kiu o khoc di c mc Nam , v cng vi Sherwani (Ging nh Achkan), kiu trang phc truyn thng gn lin vi ngi n , c bit l tng lp Hi gio qu tc.)) v c mc bi Jawaharla Nehru, th tng ca n t nm 1947 n 1964. Tuy nhin khng ging vi Achkan l di ti gi ca ngi mc m Nehru Jacket khng ch ngn hn m cn trong hu ht cc chi tit khc ngoi c o, ging nh l kiu o Vest.
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CHNG II COMPLE VEST NHNG KHA CNH LIN QUAN

2.1. TNG QUAN V COMPLE - VEST C rt nhiu cc bin th c th c trong s la chn 1 phong cch, cc sn phm may v cc chi tit ca 1 b Comple
Mt b comple gm c 3 chi tit chnh l o Vest, gile v qun. Ngoi ra cn c thm cc ph kin i km ty theo s la chn ca mi c nhn. 2.1.1. Cch thc ct (hnh thc thit k) Hnh dng ca Vest l theo ng vin. Khng c b Comple no b ko cng b mt, lng vi thm vo v cch thc treo sn phm c bit n l s xp np.
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Vest 1 hng cc v 2 hng cc Hnh dng mt trc ca Vest c bit b nh hng bi cch b tr cc trn o. Hai ng ct chnh bao gm trc tin l phn 2 mnh thn trc Vest 2 hng cc, 1 hnh thc thit k bo th vi 2 hng cc thng 2 bn, c ko cho chng ln nhau t tri sang phi.
Vest 2 hng cc V th 2 l kiu Vest 1 hng cc, kiu ny th 2 bn o tip xc vi nhau gia mt trc o bi 1 hng cc.
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Ba kiu Vest 1 hng cc
Kiu Vest Anh th c c trng vi cc mt bn thon, m vai nh, v 2 ng x t.
Vest Italian th c c trng bi nhng ming m vai chc chn, mt bn trng vng chi v khng c ng x t.
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Vest M th c coi l ph hp hn vi phong cch trc, c c trng vi nhng ming m vai va phi, 2 bn thn thon mnh, v ch c 1 x t.
Kiu Sack suit l phong cch Vest rng ri v thoi mi. ng i l 1 thut ng bao gm nhng thit k a dng sn phm may mc hin ti, nhng thit k ny khng ph hp vi nhng chun mc Vest trc y.
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Sack suit 2.1.2. Cht liu vi Vest c sn xut vi rt da dng cc loi vi, nhng phn ln thng thng l t len. 2 loi sn phm si chnh l si len xe (Nhng loi si c chi k trc khi se) v len nguyn cht. Nhng loi sn phm ny c th c dt theo rt nhiu cch thc sn xut si Plannel, Tweed (vi len c b mt sn si), vi garbadine, v fresco. Nhng kiu vi ny khc nhau v trng lng v cm gic, v mt vi loi vi c chi s S (Chi s S trn nhn ca Vest len, hay l b mt len, ch ra mn nht ca si len s dng to ra
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v mt len. S lng c th c nhn thy trn vi len v si. Chi s S i vi sn phm vi len cao cp c tc dng cho thy s tt nht si len trong sn phm, c o bng micromet. Si tt nht l mt trong nhng yu t quyt nh cht lng v tnh thc dng ca sn phm len. Trong thp nin gn y, iu ny lun tr thnh nhng yu t thng mi quan trng trong rt nhiu nh my, nh to mu v nhng hiu may. Chi s S c th c s dng vi 100% vt liu len hoc khi pha trn th cng t nht l 45%. Chi s S xut hin nh l 1 s nhiu vi s hoc s theo sau 1 con s, v d nh l 100s hay 100s) m t tinh ca len. i vi thi tit nng th vt liu c s dng c th l nilon, v Bc m, loi vi bng sc nhn c s dng. Mt s cc loi vt liu khc cng i khi c s dng, nh l Cashmere (1 loi si t lng cu. T Cashere c xut pht t cch pht m c ca t Kashmir. Len cashmere l loi sn phm dt cht lng cao, chc, khe, sng v mm. Khi c may thnh sn phm th rt m khi mc). La v La ha vi len cng i khi c s dng. Cc loi vt liu nhn to, gi r th rt him khi c s dng bi cc chuyn gia. Ba gam mu chnh ca Comple c mc trong kinh doanh l: Xm sng, xm ti, navy (Xanh hi qun). c bit, mu Xm glannel c s dng rng ri t thp nin 1930. Trong cc hon cnh khng lin quan n kinh doanh hoc t tnh cht kinh doanh th mu Nu cng l 1 mu sc quan trng, mu Olive cng i khi xut hin. Vo ma h, nhng gam mu nh hn c s dng nh l mu nu vng nht (Tan) hoc mu kem tr nn ph bin.
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Xm sng i vi phi kinh doanh th kiu Vest s dng vi tut (vi len c b mt sn si) tr nn ph bin trong thi i Victoria, v hin ti th vn c mc. Mt h mu rng c s dng, bao gm c nhng mu xanh l cy, nu, v c xm. Trong khi c b sn phm vi tut(o+qun) khng c s dng nhiu ngy nay, o Vest thng c mc theo kiu o Vest th thao v qun khc mu.
Vest vi tut Anh v M, Vest khng bao gi c sn xut vi mu en hon ton 1 cch truyn thng, mu ny thay v c phc v cho nhng l nghi trang trng (bao gm DinnerJacket v Stroller)
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Stroller Tuy nhin, s suy gim v hnh thc n mc trnh trng trong vi nm gn y cng c ngha l m en tr nn ph bin trong cc khung cnh thi trang, nh l trong cu lc b, v by gi cng c mc trong cc ng cnh trang nghim (nh trong l tang hoc chc nng tn gio) nhng ni n mc mang tnh truyn thng trang trng hn. Trang phc Comple truyn thng kinh doanh ni chung vi mu m hoc vi ng k sc thng, vung i khi cng c chp nhn.
Vest k Ngoi lnh vc kinh doanh, phm vi chp nhn ca mu c m rng ra hn, vi hnh k sc vung nh l kiu Glen Plaid ( Loi vi bng dt cho si vi cc vung
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ln nh khc nhau), mc d ngoi mt s mi trng mang tnh rt truyn thng nh ngn hng London, hin nay kiu dt ny cng c s dng trong lnh vc kinh doanh.
Glen Plaid
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Mu sc ca cc yu t theo mu (sc, k hoc cho) rt a dng ty theo gii tnh v a l. V d nh l Kiu vi k vung m, c bit l vi cc loi vi tut b gim s dng ti M, trong khi th n tip tc c s dng 1 cch truyn thng ti Anh. Mt s m hnh t thng thng nh l hnh kim cng th kh him s dng. 2.1.3. Dng Vest Bn trong o Vest ca b Comple, gia lp vi chnh v lp lt, lun c mt lp vi vi mc ch gi dng o, lp ny c gi l Dng (Loi vi c dt rt dy, cng,c s dng trong lm cnh bum, bal, lu v nhng chc nng khc ni m s bn chc l yu t c yu cu. N cng i khi c lm b mt v tranh, trn cc ti xch thi trang v giy). Loi o Vest t tin c lp Dng khng dnh.
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Dng khng dnh
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Trong khi cc mu sn xut i tr gi r li c kiu dng dnh. Loi dng dnh th km mm v khng c cht lng tt, c th lm h hi v lm gim bn ca o Vest, rt nhiu th may khng s dng loi dng ny v bn ca n.
Dng dnh Tuy nhin th mt s sn phm o Vest bn ra li cho rng s khc bit ny l kh nh. Mt vi th may ti London cho rng cc sn phm t hng (bespoke = made to order) nn c dng loi dng khng dnh.
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2.1.4. Cc b phn trn o Vest 2.1.4.1. Cc o Cc thn trc Hu ht Vest 1 hng cc u c t 2 3 cc, v mt hoc 4 cc rt t khi c s dng.
Vest 1 hng cc Rt kh tm thy 1 sn phm Vest no c hn 4 cc, mc d kiu Zoot suit c th c nhiu hn 6 cc nhng l ph thuc vo di o. C s a dng v v tr v phong cch trang tr cc, bi v v tr ca cc c vai tr quan trng trong vic th hin chiu di v dng o Vest. Cc trung tm hoc cc trn cng s xp thng hng nhau theo cu trc kh cht ch vi vng eo t nhin. Kiu o Vest 2 hng cc th ch c 1 na hng tng s cc l c chc nng, hng cc th 2 ch c chc nng trang tr, chng ch dng nhn mnh vic i theo cp ca cc. Him c kiu o Vest no li c t hn 2 cc, v trong sut thi k a dng v chng
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loi ny, vi trng hp l khong thp nin 1960, 1970, loi o nhiu cc nht l 8 cc xut hin. 6 cc l loi tiu biu vi 2 cc c chc nng ci, cp cui cng c th nm cho ln pha trn. 3 cc di mi bn trong trng hp ny c th nm trn 1 ng thng hoc thng thng hn, cp cc trn cng thng l c khong cch xa gp ri so vi cc cp di. Kiu o Vest 2 hng cc vi 4 cc thng c kiu cc b tr theo hnh vung. Vic b tr cc cc v hnh dng ca ve o c phi hp hng thng trc tip vi mt ca ngi quan st. V d nu cc cc nh qu thp hoc cc ve o c gp qu r rng, nh mt s pi nhn xung t khun mt v phn eo c cm gic ln hn.
Vest 2 hng cc C nhng iu chnh m chic o Vest ca nam gii c th b tr cc t tri sang phi. Vest ca n gii c nh cc t phi sang tri. Mt giai thoi gii thch l do ny l ngi ph n mc qun o hu phng, v th m cc cc c b tr to s thun tin cho h, mt cch thng thng th nhng ngi phc v thun tay phi, nhng ngi n ng th tay kia v nhng cc c b tr nh th l n gin ha cng vic. 2.1.4.2. Ve o Ve o Vest c th l Ve xui ( i khi gi l Ve tng), Ve xch (im), ve trn (Shawl lapel), hoc l Trick lapel.
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Ve trn
Ve xch
Ve xui
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Vest ve trn Mi mt phong cch li mang nhng ngha khc nhau v c mc vi nhiu kiu ct ca Vest. Kiu ve xui ch c thy s dng trn sn phm Vest 1 hng cc v
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l phong cch thn mt nht. Kiu Vest 2 hng cc thng s dng kiu ve xch. Kiu ve trn l phong cch c ngun gc t kiu thi trang khng mang tnh nghi l thi i Victoria, v nh vy l khng bnh thng khi c nhn thy trn o Vest loi tr kiu Dinner Suit. Nm 1980, kiu Vest 2 hng cc vi ve xch tr nn ph bin vi kiu Power suit (l kiu Vest c c trng bi nhng ng ct r nt, ming m vai ln v cng) v phong cch ca nhm nhc Rock New wave. Cui thp nin 1920 v 1930, mt mu thit k c bn lun rt phong cch l kiu o Vest 1 hng cc c ve xch.
Vest 1 hng cc ve xch iu ny ph v quy lut mt nh k v n li tr nn ph bin vo nm 1970 v n vn l 1 s thay th c cng nhn. Kh nng ct chnh xc kiu Ve xch trn sn phm Vest 1 hng cc l mt cng vic thch thc nht i vi cc th may, k c cc th may c kinh nghim lnh ngh. rng ca ve o l 1 kha cnh rt da dng ca o Vest, v n thay i theo hng nm. c trng ca 1930 v 1970 l c bit rng, trong khi vo thi gian cui cc thp nin 1950 v hu ht thp nin 1960, np o hp hn rt nhiu thng ch rng 1 inch theo thi trang. Thp nin 1980 chng kin s ra i ca loi np trung bnh vi
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1 im ve xung thp (im trn o Vest m to thnh ve xch hoc xui gia c o v np thn trc). Xu hng hin ti (gia thp nin 2000) l hng v xu hng np hp hn v im np ve cao hn.
Np i khi cng c nhng l khuyt trn np, thng c s dng gi nhng bng hoa trang tr. Nhng kiu np ny hin ti ch thng c nhn thy trong nhng s kin mang tnh trang trng hn. Thng thng th kiu Vest 2 hng cc c 1 l mi bn np (Vi 1 bng hoa ch gi bn tri), trong khi th kiu Vest hng cc ch c 1 l bn tri.
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2.1.4.3. Ti o Hu ht cc loi o Vest u c ti bn trong v 2 ti bn ngoi, nhng ti ny c th l ti p, ti c np hoc l ti si vin.
Loi ti p l loi ti c thm 1 ming vi c may trc tip ln trn b mt ca o Vest, mt s la chn mang tnh th thao, i khi c th nhn thy Vest bng vi lanh ma h, hoc l nhng phong cch thn mt. Kiu ti c np l tiu chun i vi ti hng, v n c thm mt ci np ti c gn vo thn o che ph ming ti.
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Vest vi ti hng c np Kiu ti si vin l kiu trang trng nht, vi 1 di vi nh nm trn v di h ra 1 khe ca ti. Phong cch ny thng c thy nhiu nht hnh thc n mc trang trng nh l kiu Dinner Jacket.
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Ti 2 si vin Ngoi 2 ti tiu chun bn ngoi ca Vest, mt vi o c 3 ti, ti v (ticket pocket), thng nm pha trn ti bn phi v thng ch rng bng 1 na. Trong khi iu ny ban u th ch ph hp vi tnh nng ca Vest ti mi quc gia, s dng 1 cch thun tin ng cc v tu, by gi c th nhn thy n ti mt vi cc th trn.
c trng ti cc quc gia khc cng i khi c mc trong thnh ph l kiu Hacking pocket (ti ..) loi ti ny cng ging ti v nhng n nm nghing v ban u n c thit k d dng m c ti hn trn lng nga trong khi ci nga.
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2.1.4.4. Tay o c trng ca cc kiu o Vest ca cc phong cch khc nhau u c 3 hoc 4 cc mi bn bc tay, nhng cc ny thng ch c mc ch trang tr (tay o c may kht v khng th tho cc m). Nm cc thng t thy v l cc s ph cch ca thi trang. S lng ca cc c chc nng ch o l to ra s trang trng ca Vest; mt chic o Vest th thao rt n gin theo truyn thng (1930) ch c 1 cc, trong khi th loi Vest vi tut c 3 cc v thnh ph thng c 4 cc. Nm 1970, loi 2 cc c nhn thy trong mt vi b Vest cc thnh ph. Ngy nay, 4 cc ph bin trong hu ht cc kiu Vest trong kinh doanh v thm ch c cc loi Vest thng thng.
Trc y th Vest c cc khuyt trn bc tay, iu ny gip bo v cho sn phm may khi lm sch. Ngy nay, n l du hiu cho thy Vest l cao cp hay khng. Hu ht cc loi Vest u khng c cc khuyt chc nng , Cc khuytchc nng mng sc
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c th c tm thy trn nhng ng phc cao cp hoc Vest may o; c tnh ny c gi l Surgeons cuff (Khuyt chc nng : working button holes). Nhng phong cch cao cp hin i v nhng kiu Vest may o cao cp c trang b cc khuyt chc nng c 2 cc cui cng c nh ti tm cc.
Khuyt chc nng Tay o c thm mng sc s c thm di ca vi c gp v pha cnh tay, hoc ch l mt vi mnh vi hc ng may pha trn cc cc lm bng mp ca mng sc. iu ny kh ph bin trong thi i Edwar, nh l c trng ca trang phc n mc trnh trng nh kiu Frock coat chuyn sang hnh thc n mc thn mt, nhng by gi kh him. 2.1.4.5. ng x t ng x t l mt khe di cng pha sau (Phn ui) ca o Vest. Ban u, ng x t l mt la chn mang tnh th thao, c thit k lm thun tin cho cng vic ci nga. Ngy nay c 3 dng x t: kiu 1 ng x t (vi 1 ng x gia)
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Loi khng c x t
V kiu 2 x t (Mi 1 ng x 1 bn)
ng x t kh l thun tin, c bit l khi dng n ti o hoc ngi xung ci thin dc ca o Vest, v th hin nay c th thy ng x t trn hu ht o Vest. Kiu o Vest khng c ng x t c lin quan ti nhng th may Italia, trong khi th kiu vest 2 ng x t th l phong cch tiu biu Anh quc. 2.1.4.6. Vest c ai o o vest vi ai tr nn ph bin sau chin tranh th gii th nht, c bit l trn kiu vest cng iu ha (Jazz Suit), ci m tr nn ph bin trong nm 1920 v 1921.
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Sau nm 1921, mt phong cch nh nhng hn chim u th, trong th ai o c t hon ton ti thn sau o, kiu ai o mt na. iu ny tip tc trn nhiu kiu o Vest qua sut thp nin 1920 v u thp nin 1930, thng thng th kiu Vest thi trang ny ph hp vi nhng ngi tr tui. Phong cch ny to ra 1 s tr li nhanh chng vo thp nin 1970 khi m mt s kiu o Vest li mang c im l ai o pha sau lng.
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2.2. o GILE o Gile a phn c mc vi o Vest trc thp nin 1940. Chng c tr li trong thp nin 1970 v vn cn ph bin trong sut thp k ny, c bit l c. o Gile c th mc cng vi o Vest 1 hoc 2 hng cc.
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Gile 1 v 2 hng cc
Mt phong cch m thc s ph bin trong thi trang nam gii ca thp nin 1920 l kiu o Vest 1 hng cc vi kiu Gile 2 hng cc vi eo cao. Kiu Gile 1 hng cc vi eo cao ph bin trong nhng thp nin 1920-1930 v thp nin 1970 v thng c may vi hoc l 5 hoc 6 cc. Ngy nay rt nhiu nhng ngi may o Vest cng vi Gile, mc d h thng phi tr nhiu hn 1 kiu Vest 2 mnh n gin. Mt chic o Vest m may gn vi Gile th gi l Vest 3 mnh. N tr nn rt ph bin chu u hn c M, Anh v Nht Bn 2.3. Qun u Qun u lun c may cng 1 cht liu vi Vest. Thm ch t thp nin 1910 ti 1920, trc khi nhng pht minh v o khoc th thao mc cng vi qun khc mu, vic mc o Vest vi qun khc mu l 1 s thay i cho 1 b comple. Tuy nhin th vi
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nhng thit k hin i ca o khoc th thao, ao Vest lun c mc cng vi qun u v qun u lun c mc cng vi o Vest ph hp. B rng ca qun u c thay i 1 cch ng k qua cc thp k. Trong thp nin 1920, qun u l qun ng thng v ng rng vi rng tiu chun vng ng l 23 inch.
Qun u thp nin 1920 Sau nm 1930, qun u bt u gim dn vng ng xung cn 1 na. Qun u vn gi c rng vng i v qua thp nin 1940. n thp nin 1950 v 1960, dng qun mnh d hn tr nn c a chung. Trong thp nin 1970, cc nh to mu to ra hng lot cc phong cch qun rt da dng, bao gm c qun ng loe, chung gu, ng
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sung v nhiu kiu qun truyn thng hn. Trong thp nin 1980, cc kiu qun ny bin mt thay vo l kiu qun ng b v ng thon.
Mt bin th khc trong thit k qun u l vic s dng hay khng cc ly. Phong cch c in ca qun u l c 2 ly, thng thng l pha trc, bi v n to s thun tin cho vic ngi hay vic gi dng ng tt hn. y vn l 1 dng ph bin, v vi nhng l do v kh nng s dng ca n m vn c mc trong sut th k th 20. Kiu phong cch ny ban u bt ngun t kiu ng rng qu mc Oxford c mc trong thp nin 1930 ti Oxford, ni m n c thi gian tn ti ngn ngi nhng li bt u cho 1 phong cch khc. Phong cch ny vn xut hin nh l kiu tuyt vi nht, ni bt trn nn ca qun en vi cravat trng. Ty nhin th nhng thi k a dng qua sut th k sau , kiu qun ng phng khng ly c mc, v s bin i ca thi trang nh du nhng bin kiu thi trang may sn khng sn xut c 2 kiu phong cch trn. Phn ln gu ca qun u ban u c ph bin trong thp nin 1890 bi vua Edward VII, v sau tr nn ph bin vi Comple trong sut nhng thp nin 1920 v 1930. Sau s suy gim phong cch trong Th chin th 2, chng khng tr nn ph bin
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na, bt chp mc ch chnh ca chng l thm di vo cho qun. N lun b cho l c tnh khng trang trng v khng ph hp vi cc hnh thc n mc trang trng. Cc hnh thc a dng khc ca phong cch qun u bao gm c h ng ca qun. ng qun u rt cao trong na u ca th k, c bit vi nhng hnh thc n mc trang trng, vi h ng pha trn cp t nhin, n cho php o gile c th che i bn cp h xung ch thp hn im hp nht ca ngc. Mc d t c mc ch phc v, chiu cao ny c nhn i trong kiu qun o mc ban ngy ca thi k . K t khi , thi trang thay i, v him khi thy ng qun cao nh th na v tr li vi phong cch h ng thp hn, thm ch l h xung thp bn cp thoi mi trn hng. Lnh vc thay i khc ca cch thc ct l v chiu di, thng s m c quyt nh ph ko di. Mt vi ni trn th gii nh l Chu u, theo truyn thng s khng la chn mc qun ngn hn vi vic ko t hoc khng ko di, trong khi ngi M th li thng chn kiu qun ko di mt cht. Mt khc bit ln cui cng c thc hin d c hay khng vic nhng chic qun c tht lng hoc dy eo qun. Trong khi nhng tht lng ban u khng bao gi c mc cng vi comple, quy nh ngt ngho v vic eo tht lng trong sut nhng nm chin tranh tip tc lm tng s ph bin chng, trong khi vi dy ym th by gi t ph bin hn tht lng. Khi dy ym ph bin, cc cc gn chng c t bn ngoi ca bn cp, bi v chng s c che i bi o gile hoc o len st nch, nhng hin ti th n thng c gn cc bn trong ca qun. 2.4. Tnh hung n mc v s nhn thc v Comple n tng nht v 1 b comple c th mang theo nhiu ngha. i vi cc tnh hung kinh danh, n c th th hin s tn trng v khiu thm m. Nhng thay i qu ng trn 1 b comple (V d nh mu sc sc s) c th truyn ti nhng thi tiu cc.
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Bi l mc 1 b Comple truyn ti nhng hnh nh ng tn trng, rt nhiu ngi mc nhng b Comple trong nhng bui phng vn. Mt b comple khi phng vn thng l mu xanh hoc mu xm. Kiu comple khi phng vn thng c cht liu t len hoc len pha, vi cc ng k sc. Phong cch ca kiu Comple khi phng vn tuy nhin th vn ph thuc vo c im vn ha ca t chc thuc khu vc m ngi ng tuyn mun phng vn. Trong x hi hin i, Comple ca nam gii tr nn t ph bin nh l kiu trang phc mc bn ngoi hng ngy. Trong sut thp nin 1990, nhng trit l hin hnh v qun l thi gian, bt u trnh to ra nhng b comple v cravat m l thay bng thng phc cho ngi lao ng, mc ch l to ra s bnh ng v tinh thn ci m. Trang phc trong kinh doanh vn c xu hng tiu chun ha cho hu ht cng nhn v i khi bao gm c qun l cp trung. Kiu qun o truyn thng trong doanh nghip nh l 1 phong cch chung c liu quan t cp qun l thp cho ti cc cp cao hn v nhng chuyn gia. Kiu thng phc cng tr nn ph bin cc vin hn lm phng Ty.
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i vi rt nhiu nam gii, c bit l x hi phng Ty, mt b comple l mt kiu trang phc dnh cho nhng dp c bit, nh l m ci, m tang v mt s cc s kin x hi trang trng khc. Do vy, bi chng khng phi l thng phc i vi hu ht nam gii nn h cm thy kh chu v b bch khi mc chng. S kt hp thm mt chic cravat, tht lng v o gile c th b cht v hn ch khi so snh vi thng phc ng i. Khoa hc tn c c gio cho bit rng b comple kt hp vi cravat v qun l 1 thit k m m bo rng ngi mc s cm thy bt tin. Do vy, trong hu ht cc cp x hi th comple khng lu c coi l 1 phn ca trang phc lm vic hay trang phc ngh ngi, loi tr trong gii kinh doanh cp cao. Trong sut cui thp nin 1960 1970, comple ca nam gii t c mc hn cng tng t nh l vy cng b t mc i bi n gii m thay vo l qun. iu ny c xem nh l 1 s gii phng t s ph hp ca giai on trc v suy tn ca n ng thi vi phong tro gii phng ph n. i vi nhng ngnh ngh m vn yu cu 1 phng thc tip cn ph hp trong trang phc, th kiu thay i t comple c th c chp nhn l o s mi vi cravat. 2.5. Ph kin vi Vest 2.5.1. Cc loi cc
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Cc loi cc ca o Vest ch yu c quy nh bi v tr ca cc - mt bin php o v cao bao nhiu ca cc trong mi quan h vi eo t nhin. Trong mt vi phong cch (By gi th khc) th cc cc c t cao, ngi th may d nh cho chic o Vest s c nh cc khc vi v tr thp thng thng, tuy vy vn c 1 s hng dn chung y. Kiu Vest 2 hng cc hu ht thng c gi theo dng ci cc. Khi c hn 1 cc cht qu (Nh theo kiu sp xp 6 cc 2 hng), th ch c cc trn cng cn c nh cht, trong mt vi dng th ngi mc c th ch cn ci cht cc di cng.
Kiu Vest 1 hng cc c th ci cht hoc khng cht. i vi kiu Vest 2 cc th cc di cng bn tri c ni lng 1 cch truyn thng loi tr cc kiu ct khc thng ca Vest. Khi nh cc cc th cc gia c nh cht nht, i khi cc trn cng nhng cc di cng th c truyn thng l khng thit k nh cht nh th (mc d trc y, mt s kiu o vest c ct chnh xc n c th c nh cht cc m khng b vn, y khng phi l trng hp vi qun o hin thi). Kiu o Vest 4 cc th khng theo truyn thng v khng c hng dn no trong vic nh cc, nhng cc gia t nht cng nn c nh cht. Ngoi ra, kiu Vest 1 cc cng tr li ph bin. 2.5.2. Cravat 2.5.2.1. Lch s Cravat v nhng s thay i
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Lch s ca chic cravat ngy hm nay tnh ra c gn 100 nm hoc hn th na v chng tn ti nh l kt qu trc tip t chin tranh
Nm 1660, trong l k nim cuc chin kh nhc trc Th Nh K, mt trung on gii gip v kh t Croatia ( sau l 1 phn ca quc Hung- o) ti thm Paris. y th cc binh lnh c phong tng nh l anh hng trc vua Louis XIV, mt v vua ni ting vi cch nhn nhn nh gi v trang sc c nhn. Yu t ny c th hin bng vic cc chin binh ca trung on eo 1 chic khn tay rc r bng la quanh c. Cc loi vi lm c o c bt ngun t loi khn c ca ngi Roman c thit k mc bi cc nh din thuyt lm m thanh qun ca h, iu ny nh trng tm l a thch ca nh vua, v ng sm cho lm ph hiu hong gia nh ng to rat rung on hong gia Cravattes.T Cravat, tht tnh c li l bt ngun t t Croat
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Khng lu trc khi phong cch mi ny vt qua knh o ti nc Anh. Chng bao lu th khng qu ng no c coi l n mc p li khng c chic khn qun quanh c chng din them. Thi gian ny th Cravat c mc bn cao n mc m 1 ngi n ng khng th quay u li m khng quay c ngi. C nhng kin rng Cravat c tht dy n mc m thanh kim khng th chm qua c. Cc phong cch a dng c nhn thy l khng c gii hn, cravat c cc chui qu trang tr, khn k , di bng bi v buc n cnh cung, ren, hnh thu vi lanh u tr thnh tn trung thnh ca h. Gn 100 cc kiu tht nt c sng to ra trong thi k ny. Trong thi k ny th cravat cng l 1 phn khng th thiu trong t ca nhng qu ng. Tuy nhin th ti thi k Ni chin, hu ht cc loi cravat u c nhp khu t lc a ny. Dn d, ngnh cng nghip cn bng v n khi bt u th k 20, nhng chic khn eo c ca m bt u chim lnh v tranh ginh th trng chu u bt chp vic nhng loi vi chu u vn c nhp khu mnh . Vo thp nin 90, trong cuc cch mng Peacock, c 1 s sai st nht nh trong cch tht cravat ca nhng ngi n ng, nh l kt qu ca cuc ni dy chng li c 2 vn truyn thng v hnh thc ca trang phc. Nhng gia thp nin 70, xu hng ny t o ngc chnh n ti tn thi im by gi, nhng nm 1980, lng khn chong c c bn ra rt ln nu khng mun ni l n ln nht t trc ti gi. Lm sao s ph bin v cravat c tip tc? Hng nm, nhng s gia thi trang v x hi hc d on s sp ca cravat yu t trong trang phc ca ngi n ng khng c chc nng r rng. C l ch l mt phn ca truyn thng c tha k. Khi cc nh lnh o th gii v doanh nhn vn tip tc s dng cravat, cc gim c iu hnh tr s s dng b comple v cravat nh mt chic cha kha dn ti phng hp. Ni theo cch khc th dng nh l c 1 gi tr thm m no trong vic s dng cravat. Thm na th o s mi c cc cc bc v to ra nhng im nhn dc theo chiu c th nam gii, n cn cho thy 1 cm gic v s sang trng v phong ph v mu sc, kiu dng, o khng qu xa hoa i vi o trong v b Comple. Vo cui thp nin 1960 v u thp nin 1970, nhng chic cravat rng bn hn 5 inches. Vo thi gian ny, l do cn bn l nhng chic cravat bn rng s tng
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xng vi nhng chic o Vest c b bn rng v c o s mi di hn. chnh l hng pht trin ng n, cc yu t cn c cn bng. Nhng mt khi cc t l phng i bi loi b th loi cravat to li tr thnh nn nhn ca thi trang.
Mt chiu rng cn i, v iu ny s lun lun hp thi. l 31/4 inches( t 2 ti 3 inches cng c th c chp nhn). Khi m t l trong trang phc ca nam gii vn cn ng vi hnh dng c th ca h th chiu rng ny s thit lp c 1 s cn bng thch hp. Mc d rt nhiu cc loi cravat c bn ra hin nay c ct bt i rng nhng phn nt ca cravat vn c tht rt dy, mt c trng cn st li ca cravat thp nin 1960. iu ny khin cho vic tht 1 nt cravat nh v thanh lch tr nn kh hn. Mi quan h gia chic cravat v chic o s mi l 1 iu quan trng ng bn. Nu nh mi quan h l ph hp th nt tht s khng bao gi c ln ti mc m n lm m rng c o ra hoc l buc n phi m ra, v cng khng c nh hn v nu khng n s b khut trong c. Nhng chic cravat tiu chun c chiu di chng t 52 ti 58 inches. Nhng ngi n ng cao to, hoc nhng ngi s dng kiu tht nt Windsor, s yu cu 1
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chic cravat di hn v phi c t hng. Sau khi c tht th bn cravat phi di chm ti cp qun ( Phn cn li c th di bng hoc ngn hn 1 on)
2.5.2.2. Nt tht cravat C 1 vi cch tiu chun tht 1 nt cravat: Cravat kiu Four-in-hand (kiu tht t ngy trc ti tn ngy nay ca nhng ngi n ng u mi toa hnh khch c th tht nt chic cravat ca h ngn khng cho n bay trong gi khi h ang li xe.) Nt Windsor, ngha ca n c pht minh bi Cng tc Winsor, mc d sau ng ta chi b pht minh ny v n ch l na Winsor.
C rt nhiu ngi n ng cn nhc ti nhng b n din s dng kiu tht nt Winsor hay l na Winsor. Vi hu ht cc thnh phn th phn ng nhng ngi
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n ng trng cha n khi tht kiu nt ny, mc d c mt vi cc s ngoi l, c bit l Douglas Fairbanks, Jr. Trong bt c trng hp no th kiu tht nt winsor ch trng n khi c s dng vi 1 chic o s mi c m rng, l l do ti sao m Cng tc winsor l ngi s dng n u tin. Kiu a thch m vn gi nguyn c tiu chun l Four-in-hand. N l kiu nt nh nht v t m nht trong cc loi nt cravat, v l yu t chnh to ra dng vai o t nhin trang phc tn ti Anh v M trong khong 50 nm qua. Nhng cho d l la chn kiu no i na: Four-in-hand, winsor hay na winsor th mi kiu nn c tht theo kiu m nn c 1 hm nh hoc l np gp ca cravat ngay pha di nt cravat. iu ny khin cho cravat c to sng v hnh thnh mt s vin mn chnh l iu b mt trong s to hnh chun ca n. 2.5.2.3. N Kiu n bm c nhn thy l c ngun gc t cravat nhiu th k trc. Nhng chic cravat thi ny c lm t cht liu c th git c v c v c bc rt nhiu ln quanh c v sau c tht li pha trc. Cui cng th hnh thc ny thay i thnh 1 lp vi qun quanh c vi 1 nt tht cui cng ging nh hnh dng cnh cung (Con bm)
Hin ti th n cnh bm c a thch nh l 1 s phc hng. Mc mt chic o s mi c ly ng trc 1 cch trang trng, nhng chic n tr nn tao nh v c
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nh gi cao. eo n c ngy s mang n cho nhng ngi n ng ci nhn t nhin v chuyn nghip. Kiu n cnh bm cng nn trnh mt s cc tnh hung cc oan. Nhng chic n cnh bm nh trng kh ng ngn v nh l ri ra cng nh l nhng n con bm to qu li lm cho c ca nam gii trng nh 1 gi qu. Nguyn tc chung ca n con bm l khng bao gi nn rng hn so vi phn m rng nht ca c v cng khng bao gi nn m rng ra phn ngoi cc v tr ca c o. 2.5.2.4. S ph hp ca Cravat v Vest Mu sc: Cravat lun nn ti mu hn so vi o s mi. Mu nn ca cravat khng nn ging mu o s mi, trong khi mt trc ca cravat nn c gam mu ca o v bng cch y n s mang mu ca o. L tng nht th cravat nn hp thnh mt th thng nht vi o Vest, tuy nhin th cch thc n mc trong cc hon cnh v phong cch khc nhau m rng phm vi s dng v kt hp mu sc ny. Trong sut na cui thp nin 1990 v u 2000, phong cch ny tr nn ph bin vi vic mc o s mi cng mu vi cravat hoc thm ch l mc mt chic cravat sng mu cng mt chic o s mi ti mu, thng thng l trong cc dp trang trng. Mt chic o s mi mu xanh sng vi 1 chic cravat mu xanh m hn cng tr nn ph bin. Nt tht: Mt vi kiu tht nt thng thng l: four-in-hand, kiu Half-winsor v winsor, v kiu Shelby or pratt. Kiu Four-in-hand, Half-winsor hoc winsor nhn chung l ph hp vi hu ht cc kiu Vest, c bit l nhng phong cch ng i. Sau khi c tht nt v sp xp, phn di cng ca cravat c th m rng ti bt c phn no t v tr rn ca ngi mc, nm ngay di bn cp. Phn nh hn khng nn m rng xung pha di hn phn rng, mc d vy th iu ny vn i khi c nhn thy chp nhn vi nhng cravat nh. Nhng s thay i: Trong thp nin 1960, mt phong cch thi trang mi cho nam v n gii l eo nhng chic khn qung c cng vi Vest theo cch l buc mt nt hoc bn trong o nh kiu Ascot hoc l pha di c o ging nh tht cravat. Phong cch ny tr nn ph bin ti mi ngi thch ngh thut ging nh nhng nh o din phim hoc nhng nhc s. Phong cch ny bt u suy gim t gia thp nin 1970 v
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tr li vo thp nin 1990 v ch yu dnh cho n gii. N cng c 1 cht ti hin li trong nm 2005 v mt s ngi sao eo n. Mc d mt vi ngi vn tht nhng chic khn quanh c trong thp nin 1960, nhng cravat vn c a chung hn bi nhng doanh nhn. 2.6. o s mi Cc loi o s mi c nhng ngi n ng mc cng vi Comple l kiu o s mi cao cp dt thoi vi tay o di, c 1 hng cc dc theo di o v 1 c.
Kiu dng ny ca sn phm may ny c bit n Anh M nh l kiu o s mi sang trng nhng n gin nh l 1 chic o s mi theo kiu o s mi a phng Anh. Kiu phong cch ny ca o s mi i khi c gi l kiu o s mi Oxford, tuy nhin th iu ny ng ngha l ch mt chic o s mi c lm t 1 kiu vi c bit, chuyn dng, c tn l vi Oxford, trong phong cch c trng (v d, vi o c cc di c - ci vo thn o). o s mi c l, gn gng c cho vo trong qun.
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Kiu c o truyn thng nht l c b. y l kiu c mc nh cho cc loi o s mi ca Php. Thng thng, kiu c o c cc chn c thng c mc vi 1 chic o Vest th thao hoc 1 o khoc bn ngoi, mc d chng t lu c chp nhn M. Kiu o c cc chn c khng c mc nhiu ngy nay, c bit l vi s hi sinh ca nhiu kiu o s mi trang trng vi c b v mng sc kiu Php, thm ch l trong trang phc kinh doanh. 2.7. Cc tnh hung n mc v kiu comple ph hp Nhng kiu trang phc khc nhau th ph hp trong nhng tnh hung khc nhau. Nhng tnh hung di y s a ra nhm to ra nhng s chn la trang phc thch hp nht 2.7.1. Kiu l phc (Full dress)
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- Ti rp ht - i n tic ci vo bui ti - n ti vi li mi ca ngi th 3 - Ti bui vui chi gii tr 2.7.2. Kiu Tuxedo
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Ti rp ht Cc ba ti Cc ba tic trnh trng n ti ti nh hng n ti ti nh ring
2.7.4. Kiu Cutway hoc Frockcoat vi o s mi k sc
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Tic ci chiu hoc ti i l ch nht Kinh doanh Anh Quc
2.7.5. Business suit (Trang phc cng s - Kinh doanh)
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Trong hu ht cc ba tic trang trng vo ban ngy Du lch o Vest mu xanh vi cravat mu flannel cho ba n tra hoc ti nh th. Kiu Sack suit mu en hoc mu xanh th khng c mc thay th cho kiu Cutaway trong tic ci.
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Vest - Everything About A Legend

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Author: ChapCheng hung4eyes@gmail.com hung.

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1.1.1. T nguyn hc (Etymology: Mn hc nghin cu v lch s ca cc t v cch

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Stroller (Black lounge)

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Western Suit + Kiu Vest Nudie, mt mu trang tr cao cp t Vest phng Ty

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CHNG II COMPLE VEST NHNG KHA CNH LIN QUAN

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Ba kiu Vest 1 hng cc

Kiu Vest Anh th c c trng vi cc mt bn thon, m vai nh, v 2 ng x t.

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Dng khng dnh

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