Sewing Embellishments Ebook

sewdaily
sewing made modern.
Sewing
embellishments:
1 2 3
pretty Cat, Baby Bear + Mini Mouse Stepping-Stones pot Holder Collage Wrap Skirt
3 free patterns Using embroidery, appliqu, and other fabric embellishment Techniques
sewdaily
3
page 1 of 58
Interweave Press LLC
Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
Please respect the copyright by not forwarding or distributing this document.
visit sewdaily.com
sewdaily sewdaily
Sewing embellishments
Welcome to our Sew Daily eBook: 3 Free Patterns Using Embroidery, Appliqu, and Other Fabric Embellishment Techniques. One of the most wonderful things about embellishments is that they can be applied to a project you have created or a store-bought item. Embellishment techniques let you to be as creative as you want to be, and they add a personalized, handmade touch to any item. In this Sewing Embellishments eBook, you will find three pretty projects that will expand your skills in all directions, from hand embroidery to appliqu to beading. The Pretty Cat, Baby Bear + Mini-Mouse patterns by Heidi Boyd allow you to create a trio of cuddly playmates while also building your skills in embroidery and adding decorative details. Their expressive faces are fashioned from felted sweaters and simple embroidery, while colorful cotton print bodies make these huggables nursery-ready. The Stepping-Stones Pot Holder by Kevin Kosbab lends an elegant and earthy touch to your kitchen, and youll learn a way to appliqu when securing the fused felt circles with a blanket stitch. Those wool stones arent just for showthey also add an extra layer of protection from heat for your table. This is a win-win project: beautiful, functional, and instructional. Venture into garment construction with the Collage Wrap Skirt by Stitch founding editor Tricia Waddell. A simple wrap skirt (no fitting!) employs a freehand collage of hand embroidery, beading, and appliqu for a one-of-a-kind design. Combine these techniques with different textured fabrics, and you have skirt that will travel from day to night with aplomb. Once you get started with embellishment, I think you will truly fall in love with it for the boundless possibilities you can bring to the techniques. These projects will get you started embellishing, and from there, the sky is the limit!
Photo by Larry Stein
Pretty Cat, Baby Bear + Mini Mouse...............................................3 Stepping-Stones Pot Holder................7 Collage Wrap Skirt..................................10
2 3
sewdaily
desIgner Jocelin Damien ILLustratIon edItor Amber Eden
sewdaily
Ann Sabin Swanson
PhotograPhy Joe Hancock (unless otherwise noted) ProjeCt desIgners
amber eden
Happy stitching,
Heidi Boyd, Kevin Kosbab, and Tricia Waddell

Projects and information are for inspiration and personal use only. Sew Daily and Stitch magazine are not responsible for any liability arising from errors, omissions, or mistakes contained in this eBook, and readers should proceed cautiously, especially with respect to technical information. Interweave grants permission to photocopy any patterns published in this issue for personal use only.
Editor, Stitch magazine and SewDaily
visit sewdaily.com
page 2 of 58
sewdaily sewdaily
Pretty Cat, Baby Bear + Mini-Mouse

A rainbow of colors and prints combine to make this trio of adorable playmates. Create expressive faces with felted sweaters and simple embroidery, then add fun embellishments to make huggable friends.
by Heidi Boyd
Pretty Cat
Fabric
yd (23 cm) of print cotton for head, body, tail, and shoes (shown here: red check by Michael Miller) yd (23 cm) of print cotton for arms (shown here: Pop Garden stripes) yd (23 cm) of print cotton for legs (shown here: Lightning Bugs and Other Mysteries by Heather Ross for Free Spirit) yd (23 cm) of print cotton for skirt (shown here: Pop Garden red floral) Felted sweater or fleece scrap for face (at least 5 5 [12.5 12.5 cm] Felted sweater or fleece scrap for nose
Other SupplieS
Pattern templates starting on Page 14 Coordinating sewing thread DMC embroidery floss for eyes, whiskers, and mouth (I used blue, pink, and green)
For explanations oF terms + tecHniques used click Here For our sewing Basics online
Please respect the copyright by not forwarding or distributing this document. document
visit sewdaily.com
page 3 of 58
sewdaily sewdaily
Step 6. With right sides together, place a Tail End and Tail piece together, matching up the edges where the cut line was on the pattern template. Stitch them together and press the seams open. Repeat the entire step with the remaining Tail End and Tail pieces.
6 Pin the finished Tail pieces right sides together and seam all around the edge, leaving the top (flat edge) open for stuffing. Trim seam allowances to (6 mm). Clip the seam allowances before turning.
figure 2
Cut 4 Cat Arm Cut 4 Cat Leg

figure 1
7 Turn the tail right side out and stuff with fiberfill or natural fill. Leave about (1.3 cm) of the tail empty of stuffing at the top. create MaiN bOdy 8 With right sides together, pin one
Cut 2 Cat Skirt on fold Cut 4 Cat Shoe Cut 1 Cat Face Cut 1 Cat Nose
6 precut felt flowers in various sizes (I used matching sizes for the two buttons and shoe decorations) Fiberfill or natural fill (bamboo) 2 small buttons (I used 38 [1 cm] round buttons) Fabric marking pen Handsewing needle Embroidery needle Point turner (optional)
right side up, center the Cat face on the head portion, right side up; pin in place. Topstitch around the outside edge of the Cat Face (about 18 [3 mm] from the edge) to secure the face to the cats head.
create Face 2 With the Cat Head/Body piece facing
Skirt piece to the bottom edge of each Head /Body piece. Position the flat (open) edge of the finished tail between the notches on the back Skirt piece, tucking the tail between the Head/Body and Skirt pieces, and pin it in place.
9 Stitch both pieces just pinned, trapping the tail seam allowance in the seam of the back piece. Press the seams open. (figure 2) 0 With right sides together, pin two of the arm pieces together. Stitch around the arm, leaving the top (angled flat edge) open. Trim the seam allowances to (6 mm), then turn the arm right side out and stuff with fiberfill or natural fill. Leave about (1.3 cm) of the arm empty of stuffing at the top. Repeat the entire step to create the second arm. Clip the seam allowances before turning. - With right sides together, pin a Shoe piece to the small end of each Leg piece. Stitch each together and press the seams open. = With right sides together, pin two of the Leg/Shoe pieces together, and seam around the edge, leaving the top open for stuffing. Trim the seam allowances to (6 mm), then turn the leg right side out and stuff with fiberfill or natural fill. Leave about (1.3 cm) of the leg empty of stuffing at the top. Repeat the entire step to create the page 4 of 58
NOteS
All seam allowances are (1.3 cm) unless otherwise indicated. To create felted sweater scraps, put a 100% wool sweater through the washer (in hot water with a little detergent) and dryer to compress the fibers, then cut as indicated below.
and cut out all pattern pieces as follows. Transfer all pattern markings to the wrong side of the fabric with a fabric marking pen. Cut 2 Cat Head/Body on fold Cut 2 Cat Tail (If you choose the optional color change for the tail, cut the pattern template on the dashed line and add [1.3 cm] on each piece at the cut line. Otherwise, simply cut out the entire tail as one piece.)
cut Out Fabric 1 Using the pattern templates, trace
3 Handstitch the felt nose piece to the center of the face (or slightly closer to the bottom) using a whipstitch (see Sewing Basics). Use an embroidery needle and a full six strands of embroidery floss to make French knots for eyes, placing them as desired, above and to the sides of the nose. Use long stitches to create whiskers on each side of the nose. (I placed three whiskers on each side, using varying lengths. Each whisker was created using one long stitch.) Create a mouth using backstitch. Refer to the photo on page 3 for the face on the cat. 4 Stitch felt flowers to one side of the head, just below the ear (I used two stacked felt flowers and stitched them through the center by whipstitching [see Sewing Basics] in place a few times). (figure 1) create tail 5 If you did not choose the optional
color change for the tail, skip to
visit sewdaily.com
sewdaily
second leg. Clip the seam allowances before turning.
sewdaily
q With right sides together, pin the finished Head/Body/Skirt pieces together. Position the flat (open) edge of one of the stuffed arms between the notches on each side, tucking the arms between the Head/Body/Skirt pieces, and pin in place. w Begin at one corner of the skirt and stitch up the side. Continue around, trapping both arms in the seams and ending at the other corner of the skirt. Leave the bottom of the skirt open for stuffing. e Place the legs up inside the cat, positioning them side by side, between the notches. Match up the flat (open) edges of the legs with the edges of the skirt and pin in place. Stitch across one side of the skirt and over the legs, stopping beside the legs and leaving the other side of the skirt open for turning. r Trim the seam allowances to (6 mm), trimming slightly closer around the ears. Do not trim the open edge of the skirt. Clip the seam allowance at the tips of the ears and along the curves so the seams will lie flat. Turn the cat right side out. Use a point turner to push out the tips of the ears.
fill, pushing stuffing up into the ears first, and then continue stuffing the rest of the cats head and body. Handstitch the opening at the bottom of the skirt closed with a blindstitch.
NOteS
All seam allowances are (1.3 cm) unless otherwise indicated. To create felted scraps, put a 100% wool sweater through the washer (in hot water with a little detergent) and dryer to compress the fibers, then cut as indicated below.
figure 3
modern by Amy Butler for Rowan Fabrics) yd (23 cm) of floral print for pocket (shown here: Joel Dewberry for Westminster Fibers) yd (23 cm) of floral print for mouse (shown here: Lightning Bugs and Other Mysteries by Heather Ross for Free Spirit) 18 yd (11.5 cm) of fusible interfacing Felted sweater scrap or fleece for face (at least 4 5 [10 12.5 cm]) Contrasting felted sweater scrap or fleece for nose (at least 1 1 [3.8 3.8 cm])
all pattern pieces as follows. Transfer all pattern markings to the wrong side of the fabric with a fabric-marking pen. Cut 2 Bear Head/Arm on fold from chenille Cut 2 Bear Ear from chenille and 2 from print fabric Cut 2 Bear Leg on fold from print fabric Cut 2 Bear Pocket from floral print fabric Cut 1 Bear Pocket from fusible interfacing, trim (1.3 cm) all around the interfacing piece Cut 1 Bear Face from felt scrap or fleece Cut 1 Bear Nose from felt scrap or fleece Cut 2 Mouse on fold from floral print fabric Cut 4 Mouse Ear from floral print fabric
cut Out Fabric 1 Using the pattern templates, cut out
t Stuff the cat with fiberfill or natural
Other SupplieS
Pattern templates starting on Page 14 Matching sewing thread Fiberfill or natural fill (bamboo) 6 (15 cm) of (6 mm) wide printed ribbon DMC embroidery floss for bear eyes and mouth and mouse eyes, mouth, and whiskers (I used blue, brown, and light tan) Felt bead for mouse nose Fabric-marking pen Handsewing needle Embroidery needle
y For extra character, add two sets of flowers and buttons down the kittys front (I stacked one button at the center of each flower and stitched them down to the cat through the buttons) and a small flower on each shoe (I placed mine at the center top of each shoe, securing them through the center with French knots).
Baby Bear and Mini Mouse

Fabric
yd (46 cm) of chenille yd (46 cm) of print fabric for legs and ears (shown here: Midwest
up, pin the Face to the center of the head portion of one Head/Arm piece. Topstitch (see Sewing Basics) around the outside edge of the face about 18 (3 mm) from the edge to secure the face to the bears head.
create Face 2 With both pieces facing right side
3 Handstitch the felted wool or fleece Nose piece to the center of the Face using a slipstitch (see Sewing Basics). page 5 of 58
visit sewdaily.com
sewdaily sewdaily
4 With an embroidery needle and a full six strands of embroidery floss, make French knots (see Sewing Basics) for the eyes, placing them as desired above and to the side of the nose. Create a wide mouth using backstitch (see Sewing Basics). Refer to the photo on page 3 for the face on the bear. create MaiN bOdy 5 Placing right sides together, pin
of the topstitching to keep the pocket secure.
one Head/Arm piece to one Leg piece. Stitch the pieces together and press the seams open. Repeat the entire step with the remaining Head/Arm and Leg pieces.
9 Placing right sides together, pin one print fabric Ear to one chenille Ear. Stitch around the ear, leaving the bottom open. Trim the seam allowance to (6 mm) and clip around the curves if necessary. Turn the ear right side out. Repeat the entire step with the remaining print fabric and chenille Ear pieces. 0 Pin the ears, print side down, to the right side of the bears head, placing each ear between the notches and matching up the raw edges. - Placing right sides together, pin the back and front of the bear together, leaving the ears sandwiched between the layers. Stitch the bear together, trapping the ears in the seam and leaving a 3 (7.5 cm) opening on one side for turning. Trim the seam allowance to (6 mm) and clip as necessary around the curves (see Step 9). Turn the bear right side out through the opening. = Push fiberfill or natural fill into the arms and legs first and then begin filling the stomach and head. Fold in the seam allowances of the opening and handstitch closed with a slip stitch. Make MiNi MOuSe q Placing right sides together, pin
6 Use an iron to fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of one of the Pocket pieces, according to the manufacturers instructions. 7 Placing right sides together, pin the Pocket pieces together. Stitch the two layers together, leaving the top edge open. Trim the seam allowances to (6 mm) and turn the pocket right side out. Fold (1.3 cm) of the top pocket edges down into the pocket and press. Topstitch (see Sewing Basics) along the top edge of the pocket about (6mm) from the edge.
the lower portion of the front of the bear (with the face), making sure the base of the pocket doesnt interfere with his legs (the top of the pocket will be about level with the bottom of the arms). (figure 3) Pin the pocket in place and then topstitch around the edge of the pocket, starting at the edge of the topstitched line across the top of the pocket. Make a continuous stitch line down one side of the pocket, across the bottom, and up the other side, leaving the top open. Backstitch at both ends
Mouse piece. Place the Mouse Ears on the same Mouse piece just used, positioning them between the notches on the head portion and matching up the raw edges. Place the second Mouse piece right side down on top, trapping the ears and ribbon tail between the layers (curl the ribbon as necessary to make sure none of it is sticking out from between the layers). Pin the pieces together, securing the tail and ears in place. Stitch around the mouse, leaving a 2 (5 cm) opening for turning. Trim the seam allowances to (6 mm) and clip if necessary. Turn the mouse right side out and then stuff with fiberfill or natural fill.
e Fold in the seam allowances of the opening and handstitch closed with a slip stitch. r Use six full strands of embroidery floss and an embroidery needle to make two French knot (see Sewing Basics) eyes, then create two whiskers on each side of the nose, using one long stitch for each. Create a small mouth using backstitch (see Sewing Basics). Refer to the photo on page 3 to see the face on the mouse. t Handstitch the felt bead nose to the center of the mouses face, just above the mouth, using a slipstitch (see Sewing Baiscs) around the edges and hiding the stitching as much as possible. y Slip the mouse into the bears pocket.
heidi boyd is the author of ten books with
8 Center the finished pocket over
two of the Mouse Ear pieces together. Stitch around the ear, leaving the bottom open. Turn the ear right side out. Repeat the entire step with the remaining Mouse Ear pieces. right side of one of the Mouse pieces, matching the edge of the ribbon tail to the Bottom/Side raw edge of the
w Place the printed ribbon on the
North Light Books, most notably the Simply Beautiful series. She has a fine art degree and got her start in professional crafting as a contributor to Better Homes and Gardens books and magazines. heidiboyd.blogspot.com.
visit sewdaily.com
page 6 of 58
sewdaily sewdaily
Stepping-Stones Pot Holder

The wool stones on this felt pot holder arent just for showthey add an extra layer to protect your table from heat. The appliqu circles are attached with fusible web and finished by hand with a simple blanket stitch.
by kevin kosBaB
Fabric
See Notes. 14 yd (23 cm) of 36 (91 cm) wide or wider wool felt (Main; shown: muted maroon) Scraps of wool felt in 4 different colors (assign each color a number, 14; shown: pink [#1], muted yellow [#2], dark sage green [#3], and light sage green [#4])
Other SupplieS
14 yd (23 cm) insulated batting (such as Insul-Bright from The Warm Company) 18 yd (11.5 cm) fusible web Brown embroidery floss
visit sewdaily.com
page 7 of 58
sewdaily sewdaily
C D
E C B D
B D C
Press cloth Hand-embroidery needle Stepping-Stones Pot Holder templates on Page 9
D C B
FiNiShed Size:
7 14 (18.5 cm) diameter.
NOteS
Follow the manufacturers instructions when using the fusible web. However, you may want to use steam to help the heat penetrate through the thick felt, even if the manufacturer recommends a dry iron. Feel free to mix felted wool of different textures, including wool recycled from felted clothing. Just be sure not to use acrylic felt if you want a functional pot holder, because the heat from a dish could melt it.
pot holder color key #1 (pink) #2 (muted yellow) #3 (dark sage green) #4 (light sage green)
the Main felt. Cut a 5 12 (12.5 1.3 cm) strip from the Main felt. Cut 1 of template F from the insulated batting.
cut Fabric 1 Trace and cut 2 of template A from
2 Trace the remaining templates onto the paper side of fusible web, tracing the number indicated below. Be sure to leave at least (1.3 cm) between circles.
3 of template B 5 of template C 5 of template D 2 of template E
3 Cut out the fusible web circles roughly 14 (6 mm) outside the lines. Following the manufacturers instructions, press the web to the wrong side of the felt scraps as indicated (or as desired).
From felt #1: 1 each of B, C, D, and E From felt #2: 1 of B, 2 of D From felt #3: 3 of C, 1 of D From felt #4: 1 each of B, C, D, and E
fused felt circles. Arrange the circles, fusible side down, on one of the Main A pieces, referring to the diagram above for guidance on placement. Press with a steam iron to adhere the circle appliqus to the Main piece. Note: Cover the felt with a press cloth to help avoid a shiny appearance from the heat of fusing.
attach circle appliquS 5 Peel the paper backings from the
4 Cut the fused felt circles along the traced lines.
6 Using 2 strands of embroidery floss and the hand embroidery needle, blanket stitch around each of the circle appliqus. page 8 of 58
visit sewdaily.com
sewdaily sewdaily
B A F
stepping-stones pot holder TeMplaTe

C
D E
wrong side of the remaining Main circle, then place the appliqud Main circle on top right side up, so the batting is sandwiched between the circles. Pin around the perimeter. To make a hanging loop, fold the 5 12 (12.5 1.3 cm) Main felt strip in
aSSeMble pOt hOlder 7 Center the batting circle on the
half and insert both ends between the layers of felt, overlapping the ends and inserting about 12 (1.3 cm) between the layers. Pin the strip in place. embroidery floss, blanket stitch securely around the Main pieces to attach them to each other, enclosing
the batting and catching the hanging loop in the stitches.

Kevin Kosbab is a writer, an editor, and
8 Again using 2 strands of
a pattern designer. His modern quilts and sewing projects have appeared in Stitch, and his Feed Dog Designs patterns are available on the Web at feeddog.net.
visit sewdaily.com
page 9 of 58
sewdaily sewdaily
Collage Wrap Skirt

Elevate a simple wrap skirt by combining panels of texture. Contrast matte linen with metallic luster, then add a freehand collage of hand embroidery, beading, and appliqu for a one-of-kind design. Topstitched seams and a decorative button closure add the finishing touches.
by tricia waddell
Fabric
123 (123, 238, 238, 212) yd (1.5 [1.5, 2.2, 2.2, 2.3] m) of 45 (114.5 cm) wide or 123 (123, 123, 178, 178) yd (1.5 [1.5, 1.5, 1.7, 1.7] m) of 60 (152.5 cm) wide medium-weight linen (Main; shown: medium gray) 78 yd (80 cm; all sizes) of 4560 (114.5152.5 cm) wide light-to medium-weight metallic fabric (Contrast; shown: sheer silver polyester drapery fabric) 234 4 (7 10 cm) piece of contrasting fabric for appliqu (shown: yellow douppioni silk) 14 yd (23 cm; all sizes) of 22 (56 cm) wide light- to medium-weight fusible interfacing Double-stick fusible web for appliqu (Recommended: Steam-A-Seam 2) Coordinating thread for Main fabric Matching thread for Contrast metallic fabric (optional) Beading thread to match your beads (such as Coats & Clark Beading Thread Art. D35)
Other SupplieS
visit sewdaily.com
page 10 of 58
sewdaily sewdaily
X-small small Medium Large X-Large shown in size small
Waist 2526" (63.566 cm) 2728" (68.571 cm) 2930" (73.576 cm) 3233" (81.584 cm) 35 1 2361 2" (9092.5 cm)
Hip 3436" (86.591.5 cm) 3638" (91.596.5 cm) 3840" (96.5101.5 cm) 4043" (101.5109 cm) 4347" (109119.5 cm)
CB LengtH 24 1 2" (62 cm) 25" (63.5 cm) 25 1 2" (65 cm) 26" (66 cm) 26 1 2" (67.5 cm)
Embroidery floss or #3 pearl cotton (shown: silver metallic embroidery floss) Handsewing needle Embroidery needle Beading needle (optional) Small beads for bead embroidery (shown: silver beads) 12 (13 mm) shank button (shown: silver metal) 2 flat bar-style hook-and-eye closures Dressmakers carbon and tracing wheel (optional, for embroidery design transfer) Chalk wheel or erasable fabric marker Tailors ham (optional) Buttonhole foot for sewing machine Serger (optional) Full-size pattern starting on Page 22
out of your Contrast fabric and cut 1 Left Front Skirt piece out of your Main fabric. If your Contrast fabric is opaque, no underlining is necessary. The topstitching on the sample is stitched with a coordinating thread that is a slightly lighter color than the Main fabric color so that the stitching is more obvious. If you would like the stitching to blend in, use a matching thread. With coordinating thread, whether it is lighter or darker, the stitching will be more visible than matching thread would be, which means you need to sew carefully to keep the stitches even and maintain a consistent distance from the seam line or edge. It is important to use beading thread to sew beads onto garments because beading thread is made from strong, smooth 100% continuous-filament nylon that is specially treated to resist abrasion and tangling. Also, it pulls through fabric effortlessly. If you use conventional sewing thread to sew beads onto fabric, over time the fibers of the thread will be worn thin by the beads, and the beads have a greater chance of falling off.
From the Main fabric, cut: 1 Right Front Skirt 1 Left Front Skirt 1 Skirt Back on the fold 1 Right Front Waistband 1 Left Front Waistband 1 Back Waistband From the contrast fabric, cut: 1 Left Front Skirt From the interfacing, cut: 1 Right Front Waistband 1 Left Front Waistband 1 Back Waistband Interfacing
NOteS
All seam allowances are 58 (1.5 cm) unless otherwise noted. For the embroidery design, use the template provided or freehand draw your own design with a chalk wheel. The embellished Right Front Skirt lies on top of the Contrast Left Front Skirt. On the sample shown, the selvedge edge of the linen was used along the front vertical edge of the Right Front Skirt piece for added design interest. If you would like to do this, keep in mind that when you cut out your fabric, you will align the selvedge edge with the fold line marked on the pattern piece. For a hemmed finished edge, cut the fabric as shown on the pattern piece. If your Contrast fabric is sheer (as it is on the sample skirt) you will overlay it on your Main fabric, which will be an underlining. Cut 1 Left Front Skirt piece
edge of the waistline on all skirt pieces (including the Contrast Left Front Skirt, if it is sheer), about 12 (1.3 cm) from the raw edges.
aSSeMble the Skirt 2 Sew a line of staystitching along the
the following pattern pieces, referring to the cutting layout for assistance. Transfer all pattern markings to the wrong side of the fabric except for the markings for the button and buttonhole, which should be transferred to the right side of the fabric. If it is difficult to discern the wrong side of the fabric, use a piece of tape to mark your wrong sides to keep all the pieces the same.
cut the Fabric 1 Assemble the full-size pattern. Cut
3 On the Skirt Back, fold each dart in half, with right sides together, matching the transferred dart lines. Set your machine stitch length to 2.0 mm and begin sewing at the wide end, backtacking a few stitches, then continue sewing toward the dart point. When you get to within a few stitches of the point, change the stitch length to 1.0 mm and continue through the point and beyond (into nothing), leaving a 4 (10 cm) thread tail. Tie a few overhand knots right next to the dart points, then use a handsewing needle to pull the tails to the inside of the dart and out the wide end. Remove the needle and trim the thread tails that extend beyond the page 11 of 58
visit sewdaily.com
sewdaily sewdaily
edge of the waistline. Press the darts toward the center of the Skirt Back. For best results, press them on a tailors ham (you can use a firmly rolled-up towel in place of a tailors ham).
4 If your Left Front Skirt Contrast fabric

is not sheer, skip this step and go to Step 5. If your Left Front Skirt Contrast fabric is sheer, place your Left Front Skirt Main piece on your work surface, right side facing up. With the right side facing up, place your Left Front Skirt Contrast piece on top of the Main piece, matching the notches along the left-hand side seams, the right-hand front vertical edges, and the waistline edges. Pin the three sides together and then machinebaste them together, (1.3 cm) from the raw edges. Finish the layered piece by folding the front vertical edge (1.3 cm) to the wrong side and press. Fold to the wrong side again on the marked fold line and press. Using matching thread, topstitch the folds in place, (1.3 cm) from the folded edge. You have now assembled the Left Front Skirt.
corresponding Waistband Main fabric pieces, following the manufacturers instructions.
9 With right sides together and raw edges aligned, pin and then sew the Waistband pieces at the side seams to create one continuous piece. Press the seam allowances open.
lengthwise, with wrong sides together, and then press to make a crease on the long folded edge.
w Install your sewing machines buttonhole foot (referring to your sewing machine manual for assistance). Using the markings you transferred from the pattern as your guide, make the buttonhole on the waistband, with matching or coordinating thread. Consider making a sample buttonhole on a scrap of your fabric, before stitching the buttonhole onto your waistband. Remove the buttonhole foot and reinstall the conventional foot. Put a pin in the bartacked ends of the buttonhole to prevent cutting through those stitches and use a seam ripper or small sharp scissors to carefully cut the buttonhole open. Using the button marking as a guide, handsew the button in place using matching thread. e Now its time to sew on the hooks and eyes. With the wrong side of the Right Front Skirt facing up, on the buttonhole end of the waistband position one hook 18 (3 mm) from the finished front vertical edge. Make sure it is centered between the long edges of the waistband, and then sew the hook in place. Insert the button into the buttonhole.
To accurately position the corresponding eye, with the buttoned skirt facing right side up, press the buttonhole end of the waistband down onto the Left Front waistband. Position the eye directly underneath the hook, centering it between the long edges of the waistband (it will be located between the button and the side seam) and sew the eye in place. Unbutton the button. With the right side of the Left Front facing up, position the second hook on the waistband 18 (3 mm) from the finished front vertical edge. Sew it in place. Button the button and hook the first hook and eye that you stitched in place. Matching the folded edges of the top of the waistband on the Right Front and Left Front, work from the button/buttonhole end toward the opposite side, pinning them together. Press the second hook down onto the waistband underneath and position the second eye directly under the second hook. Sew the eye in place and remove the pins.
0 Fold the Waistband in half
5 If you wish to have the Main fabrics selvedge edge on the front vertical edge of the Right Front Skirt instead of a hemmed edge, this piece is ready to be stitched to the Skirt Back in Step 6. Otherwise, fold the front edge (1.3 cm) to the wrong side and press. Fold to the wrong side again on the marked fold line and press. Topstitch the folds in place, (1.3 cm) from the folded edge. 6 With right sides together, pin the Left Front Skirt (or assembled Left Front Skirt) to the Skirt Back, matching the notches along the side seams. Sew the pieces together, stitching from the bottom edge to the waistline. Follow the same process to sew the Right Front Skirt to the Skirt Back. 7 Press the side seam allowances toward the Skirt Back. Topstitch the seam allowances in place, (1.3 cm) from the side seams. attach the WaiStbaNd + FiNiSh the heM 8 Fuse the Waistband Interfacing
- Unfold the creased Waistband and, with right sides together and with one long edge of the Waistband aligned with the edge of the waistline of the skirt, match the Waistband side seams with the skirt side seams. Next, match the center front and center back notches. Pin and then sew the Waistband to the skirt. Trim the seam allowances to (6 mm) and clip the curved edges as necessary, taking care not to cut into the stitching. = To finish the long edge on the opposite side of the waistband, overcast, serge, or zigzag stitch the raw edge. Fold the raw short ends of the waistband to the wrong side (1.3 cm) to match the vertical edges at the front of the skirt. Press. q Fold the waistband in half along the crease to turn the remaining long edge of the waistband to the inside of the skirt (the waistband is now wrong sides together). From the right side of the skirt, pin in place. Make sure the two short ends of the waistband are tucked inside the waistband. Sew in place on the waist seam line by stitching in the ditch. By hand, slip-stitch the short ends of the waistband closed, using matching thread.
pieces to the wrong sides of the
visit sewdaily.com
page 12 of 58
sewdaily sewdaily
crease
figure 1
r To ease the hem allowance, machine-baste the bottom edge of the skirt, (6 mm) from the raw edge, starting and ending 3 (7.5 cm) from each end. Fold the skirt hem (1.3 cm) toward the wrong side and press. Fold the hem over another 1 (2.5 cm) and press. To finish each of the bottom corners of the two vertical front edges of the skirt, miter the corners by unfolding the last fold you made, then take the bottom corner and fold it to meet the crease, making a 45-degree angle (figure 1). Finger press the angled edge, then refold the hem. Pin the hem in place at the mitered corners, matching the side seams and the center back. Gently pull the basting stitches to ease in the excess fabric. Topstitch the hem in place, (2 cm) from the bottom edge of the skirt. By hand, slip-stitch the mitered corners closed (figure 1). add the eMbelliShMeNtS t Fuse one side of the double-stick
sew a satin stitch, zigzag stitch, or other decorative stitch around the perimeter of the appliqu. A satin stitch was used on the sample skirt.
y Trace the embroidery template using dressmakers carbon paper and a tracing wheel or an erasable fabric marker (to use a fabric marker, trace the design, using a light table or bright window if necessary). For a custom look, freehand draw your own embroidery design line. u Thread your embroidery needle with all the strands of your embroidery floss together or use pearl cotton and then chain-stitch along the transferred or drawn line. (see Sewing Basics) i Use the beading needle and beading thread to sew on the beads, stitching through each bead twice to secure it to the fabric. Arrange the beads as desired, or in a loose circular pattern at the interior point of the embroidered line (refer to the photo on page 10 to see the arrangement used on the sample).
tricia Waddell is the former editor in
fusible web to the wrong side of the square of appliqu fabric, following the manufacturers instructions. Position the appliqu as desired. On the sample skirt, the appliqu is located about 2 (5 cm) from the front vertical edge and 6 (15 cm) below the waistline seam (refer to the photo on page 10). Fuse in place. By machine, use matching thread to
chief of Stitch. When shes not working, shes sewing.
visit sewdaily.com
page 13 of 58
sewdaily
1a sewdaily
PRETTY CAT, BABY BEAR + MINI MOUSE
CAT NOSE cut 1
1b
CAT TAIL END CAT SHOE cut 4
optional color change
1c
CAT SKIRT cut 2 on fold
cut o
CAT TAIL cut 2
CAT ARM cut 4
n fold
CAT LEG cut 4

CAT HEAD/BODY cut 2 on fold
cut on fold
2a
CAT FACE cut 1
2b
2c
PR ET TY + AR BE S BY LEG BA EAR n fold T, B o t2 CA cu
MOUSE EAR cut 4
BEAR HEAD/ARMS cut 2 on fold
cu to old nf
cut on fold
MI NI MO
AR Y BE BY BOD BA USE fold , AT MO 2 on C t TY cu ET old PR nf to cu
I +M
NI
MO
US
BEAR NOSE cut 1

BEAR EAR cut 4
US E
3a
BEAR POCKET cut 2 fabric cut 1 interfacing
Pretty Cat, Baby Bear & Mini-Mouse Patterns/Templates

BEAR FACE cut 1
visit sewdaily.com
page 14 of 58
1a
CAT NOSE cut 1
CAT ARM cut 4
CAT LEG cut 4

CAT SHOE cut 4
optional color change

CAT TAIL cut 2
CAT TAIL END
1b
1c
CAT SKIRT cut 2 on fold
cut o
n fol

CAT HEAD/BODY cut 2 on fold
cut on fold
2a
CAT FACE cut 1

MOUSE EAR cut 4
l T, B MOUS on fo CA t2 TY cu T d RE P fol n to cu
Y B BY E BOD d A
R EA
INI M
S OU
2b
BEAR NOSE cut 1

BEAR HEAD/ARMS cut 2 on fold
cut on fold
TY ET PR
to cu
old nf
2c
BEAR EAR cut 4
+M AR BE S BY LEG BA AR fold T, BE 2 on t CA cu
IN
IM
OU
SE
3a
BEAR POCKET cut 2 fabric cut 1 interfacing

BEAR FACE cut 1
sewdaily sewdaily
5a
COLLAGE WRAP SKIRT
back waistband interfacing cut 1 interfacing on fold
Collage Wrap Skirt Patterns

3a 2a 1a 4a
COLLAGE WRAP SKIRT
XL L M S XS
(if contrast fabric is sheer, also cut 1 from main and use contrast piece as overlay)
COLLAGE WRAP SKIRT
COLLAGE WRAP SKIRT
left front skirt overlay cut 1 contrast
right front skirt cut 1 main
foldline
CF
CF
CF
CF
CF
CF
CF
CF
CF
CF
5b 5c 5d 5e
3b
2b
1b
4b 4c 4d
foldline
3c 3d 3e
2c 2d 2e
1c 1d 1e
4e
COLLAGE WRAP SKIRT

back waistband cut 1 main
foldline
COLLAGE WRAP SKIRT
back skirt cut 1 on fold
foldline
XL
XL
XL
XL
L M M
M S S
S XS XS CF
right front waistband interfacing cut 1 interfacing
XS
XS
COLLAGE WRAP SKIRT
COLLAGE WRAP SKIRT
right front waistband cut 1 main
1f
4f
5f
3f
2f
COLLAGE WRAP SKIRT
left front waistband interfacing cut 1 interfacing
COLLAGE WRAP SKIRT

left front waistband cut 1 main
foldline
1g
4g
3g
2g
COLLAGE WRAP SKIRT
embroidery template
visit sewdaily.com
page 22 of 58
sewdaily
Cutting layout
45" (115 cm)
XS, S, M
sewdaily
selvedge
right front skirt
selvedges
back waistband
right front waistband
front waistband
le
front skirt
back skirt
FRONT
selvedge selvedge
fold
45" (115 cm)

l, Xl
right front skirt
selvedges
right front waistband back waistband front waistband
le
le
front skirt
back skirt
FRONT
selvedge
BACK
fold
le
visit sewdaily.com
page 23 of 58
sewdaily
Cutting layout
60" (152.5 cm) main
XS, S, M
Cut 1 of each waistband through one ply only
sewdaily
selvedges
right front waistband
front waistband
back waistband
le /right front skirt
le
back skirt
fold
60" (152.5 cm) main
l, Xl
selvedges
le /right front skirt

back waistband front waistband le
back skirt
Cut 1 of each waistband piece, through 1 ply only. The Right Front Waistband piece is on the lower layer, beneath the Left Front Waistband piece.
fold
visit sewdaily.com
page 24 of 58
1a
COLLAGE WRAP SKIRT
XL L M S XS
1b
1c
1d
1e
1f
1g
COLLAGE WRAP SKIRT

embroidery template
2a
COLLAGE WRAP SKIRT

right front skirt cut 1 main
2b
2c
CF CF CF
CF
CF
2d
COLLAGE WRAP SKIRT
back skirt cut 1 on fold
2e
2f
2g
3a
COLLAGE WRAP SKIRT

left front skirt overlay cut 1 contrast
(if contrast fabric is sheer, also cut 1 from main and use contrast piece as overlay)
3b
3c
3d
foldline
foldline
3e
3f
3g
foldline
4a
4b
4c
CF
CF
CF CF CF
4d
foldline
4e
4f
4g
COLLAGE WRAP SKIRT
back waistband cut 1 main
COLLAGE WRAP SKIRT
5a
back waistband interfacing cut 1 interfacing on fold
5b
5c
5d
COLLAGE WRAP SKIRT

right front waistband interfacing cut 1 interfacing
XL L S M
XS
COLLAGE WRAP SKIRT

right front waistband cut 1 main
XL L
XS
5e
XL L S M
XS
COLLAGE WRAP SKIRT

CF
left front waistband cut 1 main
foldline
XL L S M
XS
COLLAGE WRAP SKIRT

left front waistband interfacing cut 1 interfacing
5f

Sewing Embellishments Ebook

Uploaded by

Document Information

Original Description:

Original Title

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

Sewing Embellishments Ebook

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

sewdaily

sewing made modern.

Interweave Press LLC

Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

Please respect the copyright by not forwarding or distributing this document.

Photo by Larry Stein

Heidi Boyd, Kevin Kosbab, and Tricia Waddell

Editor, Stitch magazine and SewDaily

Interweave Press LLC

Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

Please respect the copyright by not forwarding or distributing this document.

Pretty Cat, Baby Bear + Mini-Mouse

Interweave Press LLC

Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

Cut 4 Cat Arm Cut 4 Cat Leg

create Face 2 With the Cat Head/Body piece facing

cut Out Fabric 1 Using the pattern templates, trace

color change for the tail, skip to

Interweave Press LLC

Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

Please respect the copyright by not forwarding or distributing this document.

cut Out Fabric 1 Using the pattern templates, cut out

t Stuff the cat with fiberfill or natural

Baby Bear and Mini Mouse

create Face 2 With both pieces facing right side

Interweave Press LLC

Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

Please respect the copyright by not forwarding or distributing this document.

of the topstitching to keep the pocket secure.

8 Center the finished pocket over

w Place the printed ribbon on the

Interweave Press LLC

Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

Please respect the copyright by not forwarding or distributing this document.

Stepping-Stones Pot Holder

Interweave Press LLC

Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

Please respect the copyright by not forwarding or distributing this document.

Press cloth Hand-embroidery needle Stepping-Stones Pot Holder templates on Page 9

cut Fabric 1 Trace and cut 2 of template A from

attach circle appliquS 5 Peel the paper backings from the

4 Cut the fused felt circles along the traced lines.

Interweave Press LLC

Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

Please respect the copyright by not forwarding or distributing this document.

stepping-stones pot holder TeMplaTe

aSSeMble pOt hOlder 7 Center the batting circle on the

the batting and catching the hanging loop in the stitches.

8 Again using 2 strands of

Interweave Press LLC

Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

Please respect the copyright by not forwarding or distributing this document.

Collage Wrap Skirt

Interweave Press LLC

Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

Please respect the copyright by not forwarding or distributing this document.

aSSeMble the Skirt 2 Sew a line of staystitching along the

cut the Fabric 1 Assemble the full-size pattern. Cut

Interweave Press LLC

Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

Please respect the copyright by not forwarding or distributing this document.

4 If your Left Front Skirt Contrast fabric