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Glorious junk
The story of thrift stores
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2 | events the ubyssey | www.ubyssey.ca march 6, 2009
Events
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Correction
dropped off at the editorial office of The Ubyssey; otherwise
tory at Victoria University of Wel- verification will be done by phone. “Perspectives” are opin-
lington, the show features over ion pieces over 300 words but under 750 words and are run
40 photographs by distinguished according to space. “Freestyles” are opinion pieces written
New Zealand artist Mark Adams. by Ubyssey staff members. Priority will be given to letters
On Tuesday’s Issue of The Ubyssey, The Ubyssey noted that the person and perspectives over freestyles unless the latter is time
Thanks to the Adam Art Gallery, sensitive. Opinion pieces will not be run until the identity of
flying through the air was a Phi Gamma Delta (or FIJI); it was actually a Victoria University of Wellington, the writer has been verified. The Ubyssey reserves the right
Phi Delta Theta brother. The Ubyssey regrets this error especially since and Cambridge Museum of to edit submissions for length and clarity. All letters must be
received by 12 noon the day before intended publication.
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Contributors
Lightning cracked overhead, and the thunder rolled over
the village. Kellan Higgins knew how to read the signs - the
wind carried a dark omen. Filled with foreboding, Katarina
Grgic warned the townsfolk, hurrying to find shelter. Sa-
mantha Jung made sure all the children were indoors, safe
from the doom looming over the horizon. Paul Bucci made
sure all the doors were shut tight, before hunkering down
for the coming storm. Stephanie Findlay could hear it ap-
proaching. Justin McElroy rode into the village on the thun-
der with his hordes, Shun Endo and Tara Martellaro riding at
his sides, blood dried on their flashing blades. The heads of
villagers less prepared hung from their saddles; Shun Endo’s
head gazing blankly at the destruction left in their wake.
Sarah Eden’s was barely recognizable anymore. But Goh
Iromoto knew the rites, and had prepared a surprise for the
marauders bearing down upon their village. With the mag-
ic of Caroline Chuang, and the sacrifice made by Ken Dodge,
he had awoken powers more ancient, and more terrifying.
Olivia Fellows and Joe Rayment chanted quietly in their hut,
privately dreading the carnage that would follow if they
were unsuccessful, if they failed to repeat the lines Celes-
tian Rince had laid out for them. All Matt Hildebrand could
hear, cowering with his wife under the bed of their hut, was
a rushing sound, as Trevor Melanson, that ancient beast,
rose from the lake, larger than any tree, and far more ter-
rible. When the noise passed and the sun rose, Kyrstin Bain
emerged from her hut: it was a peaceful spring morning.
Glorious Junk
The Business of Cast Off Clothing HAT: $8
BY CAROLINE CHUANG
SUNGLASSES: $8
SCARF: $5 SUNGLASSES: $9
SCARF: $5
MITTENS: $4
VEST: $7
SKIRT: $6
CARDIGAN: $10
A
JEANS: $10
fter almost six years at next pile. Men are moving, wom-
UBC, and two changes en are sorting. Things are really
of majors, I find myself organized; they are separated into
in different company. women’s blouses, women’s fancy
The social milieu has changed. blouses.” This is a world of giant
Now UBC is a flutter of hipsters semi trucks. Think conveyor belts
of different kinds—some mimic with radios being thrown and
the whiff of an aristocracy gone JEANS: $10 women in shower caps. People are
by, whereas others wear a style digging for treasures. Then out of
of feigned poverty like perfume. the remnants of castaway goods,
Their looks come off as slick as SHOES: $8 someone fishes out a Valentino
the glossy pages of Nylon and i-D. cape that causes your hands to
You see one after the other like leap forth in greed and delight.
polished diamonds making their All of this is closed to the general
pilgrimage through Buchanan D’s SHOES: $5 public.
hallways up to Lasserre. When I “The prices we pay for vintage
see them, I wonder if they smell clothing!” Garrey says. “Due to in-
as nice as they look. I wonder how flation and supply and demand—
they wear the badge of counter there is a vintage spillover effect
culture and look so immaculately [from] Value Village and Salvation
fashionable at the same time. Army—the pickers who go there
But, don’t get too close or stare KELLAN HIGGINS PHOTOS drive up the prices where the
too intently; nothing that spot on ence using visceral images: “rats, able to sort through it in years. True Value Vintage may have been low-income families shop.” Frus-
can hold up so flawlessly under rubber gloves, bright yellow.” This is a clue to his personality picked unwashed from a rag yard trated, Garrey blurts out, “These
inspection. She spent an entire summer in type: he was a hoarder. But, this in Alaska that bought its shipment places are not for young, stupid
Behind the pretension there a “gross, lonely warehouse.” Iso- is the type of hoarding that’s in- from a Saver’s (what Value Village hipsters.” Rag yards service many
usually is a lack of substance. It’s lated from the rest of humanity, spired by an instinct for survival is called in the US) in Wisconsin. proprietors in the used clothing
emboldening to feel like you’re she worked hard to stock a vintage in a materialist world. The vintage And, this is just North America. trade.
not buying into mass retail store. hoarder’s life is in their stockpiles There is a global market for used Natalie Addington, the owner
market labels. Until recently, I Ragpickers were among the of vintage clothing or their inven- rags and clothing. A rag yard in In- of Woo Vintage, isn’t typical of the
thought shopping at thrift stores demi monde of personality types tory—it represents money and a dia may ship their vintage to New thrift scene. She is not the stereo-
was a symbol of democratized that existed in 19th century Paris, certain kind of greed, especially York, where they’ll send the goods typical hoarder, miser or greedy
shopping, that thrift existed along with such representatives as if they are blokes without a pas- to Japan. proprietor. She knows everything
solely for the masses and anyone the vagabond, absinthe drinker, sion for clothes. They collect just In modern ragpicking, opera- there is to know about the used
could purchase name brands or and the prostitute. Baudelaire to pimp the historicity of dead tions are hush hush. The location clothing business and speaks with
quality vintage for low cost. Ac- had an affinity for the ragpickers women’s clothing. where Garrey picked is nonde- authority on the subject. She also
cessibility was universal. What in particular. He liked to compare Garrey picked through a lot of script. Once she’d open the build- genuinely loves the clothes. I went
I’ve learned is that the thrift them to poets. One of the reasons clothes from Alaska and Virginia, ing’s garage door, she’d enter to her store looking to consign
industry is part of a global econ- was symbolic—the poet picked judging from the tourist tshirts. “this crazy, secret world…. To your vintage clothes after being turned
omy that feeds off places like up the detritus of the city in the How did these clothes end up in a left there was a baler”—a machine down by the husky biker brothers
Value Village. It claims to cater to form of discarded words and bits rag yard in Vancouver? As far as I for packing clothes like sardines at Deluxe Junk Co., another vin-
the poor, and it does, but it also and pieces found here and there can tell, it’s because rag yards buy in a box—“and two men operating tage in Vancouver.
feeds the rich. for inspiration. Imagine the rag- and sell clothes from other rag it. All women are stationary and Addington has great cheek-
To find the source of the used picker as low-class archivist and yards. The vintage item you find at all men are bringing bales to the bones, is fashionably thin, and
clothing business look to a profes- cataloguer of the city. They’d sort dresses a bit kooky. She was born
sion called “ragpicking.” Sascha through all the personal items to wear clothes. I could see her in
Garrey, an honours economics people threw away as Paris took 60s minimalist sheaths. She got
graduate at UBC, was a ragpicker. on modernity. This is a world of giant semi trucks. Think interested in vintage clothes after
It required her to spend her time You’d wonder who’d be in this her mom took her to a swap meet
digging through dirty piles of business today. Garrey says the conveyor belts with radios being thrown in Surrey. “I was interested in
clothing in a smelly warehouse. It person who interviewed her for sundresses—the colours. That was
was a love of old clothes that got the job lived with a few other peo- and women in shower caps. more than 20 years ago.”
her working as a picker at a rag ple in a huge house. The house had
yard. Sascha describes her experi- so much stuff that you wouldn’t be SEE NEXT PAGE
4 | features the ubyssey | www.ubyssey.ca march 6, 2009
It’s that time of year, again! The people who come into her
store tend to be fashion con-
used to manage a Wal-Mart. That
says it all,” admits Lukic.
I met Lukic at originally
The Ubyssey is having editorial board elections. That scious. “The fashionistas and when I was working at the same
hipsters are looking for the alter- Value Village. She’s passionate
means that if you think you’ve got the chops to be part native interpretation to Vogue,”
Addington says. “A version of
about purses from the ’30s, an
interest she picked up from her
of our editorial staff submit your position paper to our whatever came off the catwalk.”
She gets UBC medical students
grandmother. Shopping at Value
Village appeals to Ana on a ro-
office by March 19th. coming in for 50s ball gowns be-
cause she offers them a discount.
mantic level. “Going through the
racks you can escape to a differ-
Email any questions to volunteers@ubyssey.ca. Addington is interested pri-
marily in restoration—it’s almost
ent world and time,” she says.
Even some of the shoppers
an obsession with her. And her go to Value Village for business
historian’s knowledge of clothes though. They’ll search the store
feeds the fashion lover’s ap- just looking for things to bring to
petite. Near her counter you’ll consignment shops. If they can
find the dresses—every vintage- successfully consign something,
lover’s favourite staple. I point to they get a percentage of the sell-
a beaded dress from the Robert’s ing price. They are the intrepid
Shop and Natalie tells me about and die hard thrifters who boil
the 3D beading, known as drop down the practice down to hand-
beading, which I would have feel and eyeballing—like Adding-
otherwise overlooked. She can ton, they don’t flip through every
describe a lot of the items in her item painstakingly. They know
shop in similar detail. You can what styles and labels to look
tell this by how she can describe for—an art in itself.
the clothes in her store. Of a Front & Company is arguably
dress hanging on the wall: “light the best and most successful con-
blue 50s ball gown in iridescent signment shop in Vancouver. Its
taffeta, glass beading. We clean storefront displays, which face out
it, Valerie does repairs.” to Main Street, are also the city’s
Natalie looks for clues on best. When I went to visit, one of
an item of clothing like an the mannequins was a lumberjack
archaeologist searching for shirt, a jean vest with a ribbon
fossils—“check fasteners, labels, pin. There were two others made
colours.” She goes through the up with looks that were creative
racks of Value Village now with- and sophisticated, mixing thrift
out touching anything—it used store pieces, like a light blue high-
to be hand feel, but now she just waisted striped skirt coupled with
“eyeballs.” You’ll find no better layers and layers on top. The key
tailoring than 60s Hong Kong was the layering. It looked busy,
clothing, she tells me. but refined, sort of an artier ver-
I ask Addington specifics sion of what Nicole Ritchie would
about the rag yards, which are wear. It was so current.
generally secret knowledge I spoke with Allie Sheldan,
among industry insiders. I do Front & Company’s manager.
not publish some of her answers She wears fancy glasses that
because it would be disclosing make her look geek chic. “What
too much. “Picking is a dirty job. the consigners bring in is
Not much different from bin- amazing,” Sheldan says, which
ners,” Addington confides. is what she credits with the
“…Most of the stuff in rag yards store’s success. The consigners
gets sent to Africa. Farmers there are primarily in the 25–35 age
buy it because they have the mon- range and come from as far as
ey. When you see African children Richmond and North Van. Oth-
on TV they’ve got clothes from 30 ers are from the Main St. and
years ago.” Most people have seen downtown area. Front & Com-
it on World Vision commercials, pany specializes in clothing of
but they thought this was donated the last couple of years. But,
clothing. they are notoriously picky. I’ve
Like other vintage store own- consigned there myself—they
ers, Addington has amassed a often only take one item out
collection of her own, mostly of from the huge bag you’ve
from items that don’t sell. Her brought and reject the rest.
penchant is for 40s suits, 50s This is good for customers
sundresses, clothes from the ear- though. Everything in the store
ly 60s look like they’re from the is filtered through by Sheldan’s
50s. Her taste in cars is of the skillful eye. As a result, all the
same period—she’s the owner of clothes are in season and in
a ’63 Falcon wagon. quality condition.
On another side of the thrift The clothes that make it through
spectrum is Value Village. Ac- are typically priced at one-third
cording to their mission state- the original cost, but if they come
ment, their goal is to be the “best new with tags attached, then half.
thrift store in the world.” They The vintage pieces are priced ac-
are one of the biggest, and their cording to their “uniqueness.”
selection is hard to beat. A lot Shoes are no lower than $18. This
of their stock comes from cloth- is unlike Value Village, where
ing recyclers who donate their the pricers often affix prices for
clothes. In exchange, they give unique vintage items at less than
a very small percentage of their items from middle-of-the-road la-
revenue to charity. Make no mis- bels like Gap and Jacob.
take though, they’re a business Sheldan calls Front “the be-
like any other. ginner’s thrift store.” They’re
A man named William O. El- different from Value Village in
lison founded the first Value Vil- that they have “less stock and
lage (Savers) store. Its expansion better quality.” “Our fur coats
into a thrift store empire was and leather goods have a good
aided by Ellison’s great uncle price point,” she says. Front also
and grandfathers, who built the carries local designers. Almost
Salvation Army thrift organiza- everyone in the store look like se-
tion in the 1930s and 40s. Help- rious shoppers—they have items
ing the poor was in their genes, in their hands and stare intently
“but then they got greedy,” ac- at the clothes before they buy—
cording to Ana Lukic, former as- unlike most stores where they
sistant of operations supervisor are wandering and browsing.
at a Value Village. The high class thrifters are even-
Value Village’s competition ly dispersed amongst the store’s
isn’t thrift stores: it’s Superstore many categories of racks—they
and Wal-Mart, Lukic says. Gone are separated by a section for de-
are the days when shopping at signers, consignment, and new.
thrift stores meant sticking it to There is something for everyone,
the man. “Most managers come but everything follows a closely
from corporate. Jonathan [Lu- edited and current attitude. U
CCulture
UBC filmmakers prepare for motorbike adventure
Editor: Trevor Melanson | E-mail: culture@ubyssey.ca March 6, 2009 | Page 5
Recent play East of Berlin is disturbing and unfamiliar Christian metalcore: the label
most often ascribed to Underoath.
by Caroline Chuang some genuine comedic relief affirmatively. nothing of his father that would One expects music that is both
Culture Writer at the start. As teenagers, Her- At 18, Rudi decides to leave humanize him—that would be preachy and really heavy, but Un-
mann uses sarcasm and pithy for West Berlin, sponsored by going too far. We know that deroath’s latest, Lost in the Sound
Hannah Moscovitch’s play East remarks made in secrecy to Project Rhinehart. Ironically, Rudi has thought the matter of of Separation, plays with emotion
of Berlin deals with the theme of goad his friend into having a his journey toward an imagined his father over from all possible and sound rather than trafficking
atoning for the sins of the father special relationship with him, independence from his father is perspectives when he says that in bland ideology.
in a way that is both disturbing that actualizes itself in a brief funded by a Nazi organization, his father probably succumbed The songs progress uniquely,
and novel. The protagonist, interlude of homosexual desire. but we get the sense that Rudi to the idea of a bright future and each in their own time, creating
Rudi (Brendan Gall), searches He is, after all, the one who fell back on this default identity double salary on his path to SS distinct soundscapes and an en-
for absolution and redemption, breaks it to Rudi, over a science anyway, by not coming clean officerdom. The secrecy of the joyable listening experience. The
but these attempts are as ill-fat- experiment, that they are the about turning his father in. It dark confessions are sacred for playing is never fast for the sake
ed as a Shakespearean tragedy. sons of prominent SS officers. It is there that Rudi’s tortured us, for we can still maintain our of being fast, though it is much
Upon discovering his father’s is no wonder they were raised self-identity is made more com- composure when a suggestion heavier than their first album,
past as an SS officer, he begins in Paraguay of all places, where plicated. He falls in love with of evil is offered rather than its Define the Great Line.
to rebel intensely, having a ho- Rudi’s father fled to Latin Amer- a Jewish girl, Sara Kleinman. embodiment. The haunting rises and falls of
mosexual affair. ican sympathizers. By the last Donnelly stands out in this Throughout, we smell the “We Are The Involuntary” breath-
Moscovitch really delves into few scenes, Hermann plays the role; you can see her tears from stench of Rudi’s hand-rolled lessly hold my attention. Their
the psyche of Rudi and uses his part of a lover scorned, as he the front row, and she delivers cigarettes. It may serve to calm ability to progress in sound and
dual role as narrator and ac- meets face to face with Rudi’s her lines with earnestness. She the actor’s nerves in real life; avoid repetition; the slow building
tor to make his psychological fiancée, also the bearer of his vomits at the site of Auschwitz, he was given this plum role to of drums and static in “Breathing
demons more prominent. The child. Hermann is so jealous he and curses at Rudi for comedic explore a cracked psyche, after in a New Mentality” leads perfect-
multiple and constant shifts in reveals Rudi’s secret to her—his effect—“fuckin’ German.” all. ly to the rest of this neck-breaking,
real time are demarcated by father isn’t dead yet. One won- Rudi, on the other hand, has It is telling that Rudi never headbanging song. The poppy,
lighting and the entry of Sarah ders why Rudi didn’t kill him. a staccato voice, perhaps be- finds redemption. But he enacts emo-kid lyrics in “A Fault Line, A
(Diana Donnelly) and Hermann Rudi tells us his father is a cause there is no real transition a solution, which I won’t reveal. Fault of Mine” contrast melodi-
(Paul Dunn). By the end, you’ll good one, a gentle man who has from his boyhood to his adult- East of Berlin is a Tarragon ously with the rest of this screamo
be used to the schizophrenic sex with his mom once a week hood. The delivery is sporadic Theatre Production brought to dirge, again keeping my attention.
rhythm. and eats a good dinner. He asks and Gall seems uneasy. audiences by the Touchstone Underoath returns to Vancou-
Hermann, Rudi’s former best himself whether he should turn There is a picture of Hitler in a Theatre in Vancouver and the ver this Saturday at the Vogue
friend from childhood, is thor- in his father as a war criminal. gold frame on his father’s desk. Chutzpah! Festival, and it ran Theatre.
oughly sinister, yet provides One audience member replied Rudi tells us this. But, we know from February 18–28. U —Ken Dodge
EEditorial
Why the hunger strike?
POINT In Tuesday’s issue we reported that newly elected AMS
President Blake Frederick, former president Michael Duncan,
If you’d like to submit a letter, please contact feedback@ubyssey.ca March 6, 2009 | Page 6
Letters
ever caught wind or been inspired by this hunger strike, which
is of much lower profile than the problem itself.
If this hunger strike accomplishes anything, it’s more street
cred for its participants—a way for them to show everyone how
much they care. And care they certainly do, we’ll credit them IN RESPONSE TO MR PORITZ’S a “moderate...message” I fear a people is at the mercy of two
that much. Unfortunately, while jail time may sell rap albums, LETTER that Mr Poritz wants to see a occupiers: one of which carries a
we’re not convinced starvation time will sell the government castrated display of a people’s gun, and one of which carries a
on this one—especially when budgets are so tight with the I consider Mr Poritz a friend of suffering. From my side, being megaphone. Mr Poritz is in Hon-
recession. mine. However, I cannot stand a Jew does not equate to unques- ours History: he should know
Let’s be clear, we at The Ubyssey are not encouraging apathy. by while his views are printed tioning support of Israel’s ac- well that there exist multiple
We’re just suggesting that there are more practical ways to ad- in this paper without offering tions. The status of Israel is not truths to every debate.
dress this problem. U my dissent. He talks of SPHR an ethno-religious position; it is
offending supporters of Israel; a political one. The SPHR display —Mike Kushnir
it’s not something I’m go in as much for me, or the you can’t find stores...but
as I use to.” style.” stuff made in then you’re not
prepared to do” the 60s in stores paying the big
—UBC president today.” bucks either.”
Stephen Toope
—Coordinated by Tara Martellaro & Paul Bucci, with photos by Kellan Higgins
march 6, 2009 the ubyssey | www.ubyssey.ca games & comics | 7
The Birds hope to pass through the first round of the playoffs this year. The
T-birds enter the playoffs this weekend. keegan bursaw file photo/the ubyssey
Hockey Preview
by Shun Endo the Birds to keep the team on
Sports Editor the playoff borderline. But as the
regular season came to a close,
As many sports are approaching the Birds came out strong win-
the end of the season, the men’s ning four out of five of the last
hockey team will enter the last games.
stage—the competitive Canada T-Birds will face the Canada
West playoffs. Starting this week- West fourth-ranked Lethbridge
end, the teams will compete for Pronghorns for their first battle
kellan higgins photo/the ubyssey
the only spot in the CIS champi- in the playoffs. Though the
KYLA RICHEY — WOMEN’S also recognized this week as Regatta. Bundon had an excep- onships at Lakehead University. Pronghorns have been physical-
VOLLEYBALL the Canadian Interuniversity tional weekend, coming first in The Birds had a dismal start ly strong, the Birds have claimed
Sports Female Athlete of the the women’s lightweight singles this season including seven con- several victories over them
This past weekend, rightside Week, an honour that stands and also winning the women’s secutive losses and one of them this season and they do have a
Kyla Richey of the women’s vol- above all other sports. This is pair division. Bundon and the being an embarrassing 1–10 substantial chance of breaking
leyball team led her team to a Richey’s second appearance as rest of the crew leave for Amster- defeat against last ranked Cal- through the first stage. The only
national championship victory. UBC athlete of the week. U dam next week where they will gary. This was a disappointing setback in this situation is that
She had a total of 34 kills in be competing in the Heineken result for the squad as they were the Birds will have to travel away.
the tournament, including 18 ANDREA BUNDON – WOMEN’S Regatta, a race which involves a successful in recruiting several With no fans behind their back
in the final versus the Calgary ROWING 6km race and then a 250m turn- WHL and OHL players. and a lot of attention focused on
Dinos. She was recognized as around sprint, and another 5km Even with increasing momen- the CIS men’s basketball cham-
the tournament MVP, and also This past weekend, Andrea Bun- race with a 750m sprint. We tum on their side, nationally top- pionship, the squad will have
earned a spot on the tourna- don and the UBC rowing crew wish Bundon and the crew the ranked teams like Alberta and to put everything on the rink to
ment All-Star team. Richey was competed in the Spring Granite best of luck in Europe! U Saskatchewan stood tall before reach as far as they can. U