12 June 2013

DaKrong District, Vietnam Real Work Begins: Vietnamese Edition

It has happened at last. In early May I took the overnight train from Hanoi to Dong Ha town in Quang Tri province with all my stuff. And, within just two days I met my governmentapproved interpreter, learned how to drive a motor bike, bought a motor bike, strapped all my belongings onto that motor bike, and drove an hour up the hill to settle into my new home out in a mountainous, rural district of Quang Tri.

So in addition to moving around and buying a (my rst ever) motor vehicle, I've made a friend! Trang, a former Vietnamese Fulbrighter who traveled to the US to complete her masters degree in teaching, has been a godsend to me. She lives in Quang Tri and has been my friend and family ever since I arrived there. Actually, the people at the US embassy in Hanoi played matchmaker for us, and for that I'll be grateful to the US government forever.

The People's Everything

I'm the only foreigner in my town living at the only guesthouse approved for foreigners, the people's committee guesthouse. I work in approved hamlets with an approved interpreter and have had multiple meetings at the people's committee departments for various levels of government. What is life like for me? Well - it is tightly controlled but interesting.

Suu, my interpreter, is a nice guy. He is young, so we are good for each other both newbies at research. I literally could not do this without him. He helps me conduct interviews and also acts as my cultural advisor, helping me navigate the confusing and murky waters of meetings with commune and hamlet heads, "compensation/gifts" to government workers, and other things that I nd totally confusing. It's good to have a

buddy out there during research too, even if we are both at the mercy of his boss at the Foreign Affairs ofce. My actions and our work are all reported back weekly. So, if there is a problem, I imagine I'll hear about it right away.

Household Interviews

Paying an interpreter by the day really inspires long working hours! So, Suu and I rocked the month of May. We nished two introductory interviews with 30 households. 60 total interviews. Not bad!

Trips Back to Dong Ha

We drank a lot of tea and learned a little something about development projects, household livelihoods, economic decision-making, and people's desires for the future. (more on this later)

I've gone back to the coastal town to visit Trang a few times, and on May 19th, I had the honor of attending her wedding!

There was karaoke, some dance performances, and boat loads of food. It was all pretty darn formal and quick. People came in for the reception at about 11 and were out the door at noon. But, considering the wedding ceremony was at 7am, it's a good thing for the bride, groom, and families that it all wrapped up by the early afternoon. Pretty different from Brent and my experience, right?

Trip to Hanoi

At the end of May, there was a reception for Fulbright grantees held at the ambassador's residence in Hanoi. It felt like meeting the president at the White House. Honestly, I might have been slightly star struck to meet Ambassador David Shear and his wife Barbara. Maybe it was the chocolate trufes, the owing wine, or the little quesadillas with little American ag tooth picks stuck in them...but, I had a fun time - and I felt very patriotic!

Con Dao Island Paradise/Fulbright Goodbyes

During the rst week of June, all the Fulbrighters (save one who was too busy) descended on Con Dao island off the coast of Vung Tao and the Mekong Delta. This served as a bookend to our orientation - so we had the chance to present on any and all things...our research, cultural ambassador experiences, relationship with the host institutions, and challenges. It was so wonderful to see everyone! And I got great feedback. Unfortunately, it was the 'goodbye' meeting, as all but three of us will be leaving at the end of June. Even Susan is headings back home!

After our meetings nished, we took a tour of the very creepy but historically interesting French and American-era prisons. Also, along side the prisons is a cemetery, which seems to be the Vietnamese version of Arlington, for those who died in the prisons.

To balance that out the doom and gloom, we explored the island by bike, swam in the ocean, and ate tons of seafood.

Clockwise from the top left: checking out the lotus pond by bike; view of the lotus pond; my fellow Fulbright grantees.