Madagascar

Paddling into the

wild
Most travellers to Madagascar head to the popular Nosy Be or St Marie, so when Jenman Safaris opened a kayaking trip on the islands southeast coast, Dylan Kotze jumped at the opportunity to explore its wilder side.

The two-seater kayaks are stable and easy to paddle, especially when sheltered from the wind by the surrounding indigenous coastal forest that envelopes you on some stages of the trip.

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three flights from Cape Town to reach Fort Dauphin in southeast Madagascar and a short, bumpy car journey. To our left was a forested mountain range that stretches almost the entire length of the country and, out of sight to our right, lay the Indian Ocean. On the bank were three brightly coloured two-seater kayaks, still wrapped in plastic. Our rainbow crew comprised a 60-something ex-travel editor, a mom of two who by her own admission could be fitter, two reasonably unsporty guys and three guides. Our mission was to navigate the 45-kilometre network of rivers, lakes and mangroves, which lay north of us. We pilfered only the bare essentials, such as cameras and suncream, to pack into the dry bags. The rest of our belongings were shoved into the vehicle and would await us at camp in slackpacking-on-water style. We partnered up, adjusted our seats in the kayaks and slipped into the slowflowing black water. The first section was narrow and lined with foliage so dense it completely sheltered the water from any breeze, leaving our bows to cut through mirror-like reflections. At times wed have to use overhanging
BELOW: A lunchtime stop on the riverbanks with the forest-clad mountain range as a spectacular backdrop.

he put-in spot was at the edge of a river small enough that no one had bothered to give it a name. Wed arrived there after

longer this relatively intact coastal forest would remain, as many of the countrys diverse ecosystems have already been hammered by deforestation. Its a sad thought, considering Madagascar is home to a remarkable five percent of the worlds plant and animal species and around 80 percent of its wildlife is found nowhere else on the planet. Nonetheless, we soaked up the peaceful surrounds as we meandered towards the last stretch of the day, which opened up to a wide channel just before flowing into the ocean. It took only a brief moment of eye contact to confirm a race was on. We dug deep into our reserve tanks and powered forward to see who would arrive first at the lunch spot and claim the meaningless honour. Perhaps it was our primal, chestbeating instincts kicking in, perhaps the lure of a sweet, thirst-quenching Three Horses Beer, but expelling the extra energy was well worth it as we hauled ashore and tucked in to lunch. All our meals were prepared by French-trained chefs, who worked like shadows in the dark to ensure our food and campsites were always ready and waiting. Throughout the trip they continued to surprise us with a variety of dishes using the same basic ingredients mainly mackerel, tuna and crab and cooked over a wood-burning fire. After lunch, we left the boats behind and began a two-hour walk further north along the coast to our campsite. We passed through the seaside village of Evatraha, which offered a window into the lifestyle of the local Antanosy people, the smallest of the 18 ethnic groups in Madagascar, making up just two percent of roughly 22 million Malagasy. Antanosy live in small clans dotted around the southeast regions and, as we wandered between their reed huts where small fires released fragrant smoke, we saw women weaving mats and others tending to nearby rice paddies and cassava plantations. Young
ABOVE: Not another person, village or man-made object as far as the eye could see. The going can get tough conquering these long, open stretches. BELOW: Our campsites awaited us each evening, either in a forest or on a hill with sweeping views. Stretcher beds, hot-water showers and a large dining table offered a good level of comfort.

Madagascar

branches to pull ourselves through the water. It took a while for the steerers seated at the back to get used to piloting the tight twists and turns and it soon became clear that kayaking a two-seater tests any relationship. Frustrations aside, we quickly became accustomed to the stable kayaks and settled into a leisurely rhythm, breaking occasionally to admire incandescent blue Madagascar kingfishers (a close relative of the malachite kingfisher more familiar on the African mainland) perched among multi-shaded greenery on the riverbanks. I couldnt help but wonder how much

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boys watched over zebu, which grazed on the adjacent hills. (Zebu, an interesting-looking cattle species with a fatty hump on their shoulders, are highly adept in regulating their body temperature to survive in subtropical climates.) The men returned with their days catch, paddling dugout pirogues. Like works of art, these canoes are carved from a single tree trunk and can take up to a year to complete. The fishermen believe all life comes from the sea, since its the sea that provides them with food and their livelihoods. Their lives revolve around fishing, improving their technique and respecting the ocean to avoid disasters. This means not violating taboos or fady, which vary from one
Clockwise from top left: A man repairs his pirogue by jamming cardboard into the cracks. The canoes are carved from a single tree trunk and can take up to a year to complete; Madagascar is home to about half the worlds 150 or so species of chameleon, which can focus their eyes separately to observe two different objects simultaneously; taking time out in the mangrove shade is essential during the midday heat.; a fisherman catches crabs to feed his family and sell to local markets; two young girls search for shells in a rock pool at the beach; the sun is relentless and all forms of protection are needed to keep from getting burnt; a zebu, with the distinctive hump between its shoulders, grazes contentedly.

been older than four, standing chest deep in water catching crabs for their families. Their gentle song and giddy laughter broke the monotony, which temporarily took our minds off the deep burn in our arms and kept us going. By midday the heat was intolerable and we sought temporary cover in the shady mangroves. At one point in the five hours of paddling that day, we found ourselves in a dead-end mangrove channel and had to retrace our path to find another route our guides, it seemed, were still perfecting their familiarity with these intricate waterways. We finally reached the campsite in Belaveno, which is perched on a hillside and has magnificent views over the water. Journalist Brian Berkman sat slumped in a camping chair. Im absolutely stuffed, he muttered. I dropped to the floor with laughter, pleased I wasnt the only one. The third and final paddling day greeted us with light showers in the morning. It was the kind of rain that was welcomed after the previous days scorcher. Thankfully, it was a short three-hour stretch to our destination at Manafiafy, in Sainte Luce Reserve, so we took it slowly. We paddled past a village where, at first, the children ran from the banks screaming and then the entire community gathered and waved us vahaza, or foreigners, past. When our eyes caught sight of our end point at Manafiafy Beach and Rainforest Lodge, it was like stumbling upon an oasis after being lost in a desert. Wed been on an exceptional adventure out in the wilderness, exposed to the elements, without electricity and without any other tourist in sight, but the tropical, beachvilla setting was mouth-wateringly appealing. With our welcome drinks in hand and a round of celebratory highfives, we sunk into the deck chairs. The paddling had been tough, but we relished how incredibly fortunate wed been to see a part of the world very few others have experienced and realised that, sometimes, the best things in life dont come easy.
Travel planner overleaf

region to another but regulate everyday life in Madagascar. The Antanosy, for example, believe its fady for wives to make themselves beautiful or have visitors when their husbands are at sea. We left the village and continued our trek over coastal hills and passed bay upon bay of exquisitely empty beaches before we reached our campsite in a thick rainforest that crept onto the long, white sandy beach in Lokaro. No roads, no buildings, just raw beauty. Coffee was waiting, and the elegantly rustic campsite was already fully prepared when we arrived. The two-man canvas tents had stretchers with soft mattresses, pillows and neatly folded towels with soap and shampoo carefully placed on top. The hot-water camping showers were a welcome refresher and the long-drop toilet had a throne that made it a pleasure to enjoy the hums of the forest when nature called. That night, thousands of fireflies danced around the dinner table to the gentle sounds of the ocean lapping our doorstep. Sleep came easily. We rose with the sun, our body clocks already in sync with nature. Day two took us into even more remote regions. The wind had picked up and we had nowhere to hide as we crossed a long, wide-open lake. There was no particular rush, but the thought of getting blown backwards was unbearable, so we battled against it. We passed children, who couldnt have

below: Theres a good chance youll find yourself strolling alone on the exquisite 10 Mile Beach in Manafiafy.

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5 Madagascan highlights
While kayaking is the main focus of this trip, these are other highlights not to be missed.

Tana
Antananarivo or Tana, Madagascars bustling Afro-Indonesian capital, is a mix of wooden houses and French colonial buildings built on the hills, with rice paddies on the low-lying fields below. Its name means city of a thousand but nowadays its home to about two million people. The traffic congestion is mind-boggling and its common to see old Citrons and Peugeots being pushed up steep slopes and cobbled roads lined with shops selling all sorts.

monkeys, but are more like distant cousins and endemic to Madagascar. Lemurs Park on the outskirts of Tana has eight of around 100 recognised lemur species, including the Coquerels sifaka pictured below.

Snorkelling
If the sea conditions allow, take a 20-minute boat trip through the river mouth in Manafiafy to the uninhabited offshore islands or head to the aptly named 10 Mile Beach for excellent snorkelling among iridescent tropical fish. From the shore, look for passing whales from June to December.

Fort Dauphin
Fort Dauphin (its rarely used Malagasy name is Taolagnaro) lies between crescent-shaped beaches on a narrow peninsula and the slopes of the forestclad Pic Saint Louis mountain. Its one of the original French territories and colonists established a settlement here in 1643. We had the afternoon before the kayaking safari to wander the streets of the tattered old town, where buildings are slowly decaying, people struggle with poverty and the closest thing to a supermarket is a Total garage.

Night forest walk

It can be stiflingly humid among the dense trees of Ambato Atsignana Nature Reserve near Manafiafy and its best explored in the coolness of dusk. The highlight when we visited was seeing a red-collared brown lemur clinging to a tree. Before long, its family arrived and they flew through the canopy as their calls echoed occasionally to break the night silence. Other lemur species include the woolly, common brown, mouse, dwarf and sportive lemur and there are also reptiles, birds such as this Madagascar pygmy kingfisher, insects and orchids to be spotted.

Plan your trip

Getting there
Air Madagascar flies between Joburg and Antananarivo twice weekly. Return flights average about R7200, including taxes. It also offers an internal flight to Fort Dauphin, which costs around R5432 return. national Airport in Antananarivo, or take US dollars or euros. Ariary arent accepted in the duty-free shops at Ivato, so change it before check-in. Visa and Mastercard are accepted in most places.
LANGUAGE. Although English and French are both official languages, not many Malagasy speak English and few understand French in rural areas. GETTING AROUND. Public transport is by taxi brousse, or bush taxis, which arent recommended for any but the most intrepid travellers. If you want to hire a car, youll also need to hire a driver, as tourists arent allowed to drive. PACK THIS. Small dry bags are issued to each person and should fit everything you need while kayaking. A hat, long-sleeved rash vest, sarong, water-friendly shoes and suncream are essential, as are binoculars for close-up views of the birds and lemurs. A basic first-aid kit may come in handy, especially if you develop blisters from paddling. Madagascar is a malaria area, so take prophylactics as well as mozzie repellant.
ABOVE: A shaft of sunlight breaks through the clouds to illuminate the seaside village of Evatraha. BELOW: Even though the camping was semi-luxurious, arriving at Manafiafy Beach and Rainforest Lodge was a welcome treat.

Book here
Getaway was hosted by Jenman Safaris, which offers various packaged tours and tailor-made trips in Madagascar. An 11-day kayaking safari in the countrys southeast costs around R25 000, including all meals, drinks, three nights camping, seven nights upmarket accommodation, flights between Joburg and Antananarivo and return flights between Tana and Fort Dauphin (excludes airport taxes of about R3 200). Tel 021-6837826, email info@jenmansafaris.com, www. jenmansafaris.com.

Lemurs
No trip to Madagascar is complete without a lemur encounter. Theyre considered to be the ancestors of

Need to know
VISAS. South African passport holders are issued with visas on arrival without charge. CURRENCY. The local currency is the ariary. At the time of going to print, R1 was equivalent to about A215. Withdraw money at an ATM machine at Ivato Inter-

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