Pioneering Knots & Lashings

Clove Hitch

The Clove Hitch A Clove Hitch is essentially two half hitches. It is used in a number of ways and is important as the starting point of many other knots (e.g. lashings) The standard Clove Hitch should be left with a long standing part if it is going to be used as an anchor as it may work loose otherwise. Indeed it is only really secure when both sides are under tension. Note that there is at least one more useful method to tie a clove hitch. However many of the other methods cannot be used when the rope is under strain. Pass the end of the rope around the pole forming the first turn. After you have formed the turn take the working end of the rope across the standing part. Now take the working end around the pole once more. This will make a second turn. As you come up to the end of the second turn tuck the working end underneath itself. Pull on the ends to tighten the knot.

Pioneering Knots & Lashings

Timber Hitch
This is an important hitch, especially for dragging a heavy object like a log. It will hold firmly so long as there is a steady pull; slacking and jerking may loosen it. The timber hitch is also useful in pioneering when two timbers are "sprung" together. When it is used for dragging, a simple hitch should be added near the front end of the object to guide it. Pass the end of the rope around a pole (make sure you leave a long working end give yourself plenty of rope to play with). Cross the end over itself. Now tuck the end under itself working back around the pole. Keep doing this until you have run out of rope and have formed a series of tucks around the pole. Pull hard on the long-standing part to tighten it.

Pioneering Knots & Lashings

Square lashing
Begin with a clove hitch underneath the spar to be supported (a). Wrap the two ends of the rope together so that the short end is trapped and the clove hitch cannot come undone. Wrap the rope first over one spar, then under the other, pulling tight all the time (b). On the second turn round, go inside the previous turn of rope on the top but outside underneath the spars (c). After three turns, apply three frapping turns, which pull on the rope turns already made, making them even tighter (d). Finish off with a clove hitch on the opposite spar to the one on which you started (e)

Pioneering Knots & Lashings

Diagonal lashing
Begin with a timber hitch to draw the spars together (a). Pull the knot at right angles and wrap three times around the spars, keeping the rope tight all the time. Wrap three more turns, this time over the timber hitch (c). Apply three frapping turns to pull the lashing tight (d). Finish off with a clove hitch (d).

Pioneering Knots & Lashings

Figure of eight lashing

Also known as round, tripod or gyn lashing. Three spars are laid so that the centre spar goes in the opposite direction to the two outer ones. Start with either a clove hitch or a timber hitch on one of the outside spars. Wrap the rope neatly, but not too tightly, under and over the spars until six or seven complete turns have been taken.

Finish with frapping turns round either side of the central spar and tie off with the clove hitch. Turning the centre spar through 180o and opening out the other two spars forms the tripod.

Sheer lashing
A sheer lashing can be used singly or in pairs . . .

For joining two spars to increase the overall length e.g. when making a flag pole

It is important to have a good overlap of spars between a quarter and a third of their length. Start with a clove hitch or timber hitch round one of the spars near the end of the overlap. Wrap the rope neatly and tightly round both spars for 8 10 turns (a) Finish with a clove hitch round the second spar Add a second lashing at the other end of the overlap so that no movement is possible (b) To tighten further, add small wedges between the spars next to the lashings

For sheer legs, where the spars are opened to form an inverted V.

Pioneering Knots & Lashings

Line up the ends of the spars Start with a timber hitch or clove hitch round one spar Continue with 8 to 10 turns round both spars these turns should be neat and firm but not too tight. Do three frapping turns and finish with a clove hitch on the second spar (a) and (b).

The lashing tightens as the sheer legs are opened which is why the first turns round the spars should not be too tight or it will not be possible to open the legs as required (c).

Tripod lashing
Line up the ends or butts or three spars or staves and hold the top ends so that they form a tight triangle. Form a long loop with one end of the lashing length and pass it between two of the spars and over the third. Using the longer part of the rope, make a number of turns around all three spars until the length of the lashing is the same as the diameter of one of the spars. Pick up the loop and place it over the same spar. Pull the short end of the rope until the loop is locked tight against the rest of the lashing. Take both ends of the rope up into the centre of the three spars and finish off with a reef knot. Pulling the butt ends out with a slight sideways movement forms the tripod. The tightness of the lashing will control the spread of the legs.

Pioneering Knots & Lashings Anchorages

An important part of main line projects are the anchorages. They quite often take the form of a conveniently placed tree, suitably protected with sacking, or the 3-2-1 anchors.

The log and picket is a very good anchorage that is easy to construct we use it for monkey bridges etc.

The Dead Man anchor is a hefty log, approximately 2m (6ft) long. A rope is tied round the log, which is then buried in the ground. The Dead Man is not a great favorite with Camp Wardens.

Pioneering Gateways

Basic Camp Gateway

Equipment 8 x light spars 2.5m (8ft) long 2 x light spars 2m (6ft) long 4 x light spars 1.5m (4ft) long Sisal Large pegs or pickets Troop name board

Method The sides of the gateway are made from two narrow trestles. As they will not be carrying a great load they should only need a single diagonal brace, which saves time. The sides are held upright by an additional spar lashed to the middle of the top horizontal spar with a square lashing. The position of this outer leg should be adjusted so that the sides lean outwards slightly and can stand on their own. Lash the two remaining spars across the top of the gateway and hang your name board from the front. Useful hint Use a picket driven in at a 900 angle to the bottom of the outer leg and make fast with a square lashing.

Scout Group Name & Number

Pioneering Gateways Counter Balance Gate v1

Equipment: 4 x 1.2m (4ft) staves or light spars 6 x 0.45m (1ft 6inches) staves 1 x 3m (10ft) spar 1 x 1.8m (6ft) stave 1 x 1m (3ft) stave 1 study forked stick approx 1.2m (4ft) 1 log counterweight 16 light lashing lengths

Method Prepare two identical frames by lashing 2 x 1.2m staves and 2 x 0.45m staves into rectangles. Join them by lashing a fifth 0.45m stave between them - see a) This frame stands upright with the extra cross member at the bottom on the side away from the opening where the gate will be. The uprights should be let into the ground by making holes in the appropriate places with a tent peg and mallet. Lash the last 0.45m stave across the 3m spar to provide a pivot. Lash the 1.8m and 1m spars to the 3m spar to form a triangle on the same side of the 3m spar as the pivot see b).

The log is lashed to the opposite end of the 3m spar to the triangle as a counterweight. The position of this will need to be adjusted so that the spar will balance. The gate is balanced on the two 0.45m staves on the top of the rectangular frame made earlier. The counterweight is adjusted and the forked stick set into the ground so that the end of the gate will rest on it.

Counter Balance Gate

Pioneering Gateways

Counter Balance Gate 2

Equipment: 6 x 1.2m (4ft) light spars 1 x 1.0m (3ft) light spars 2 x 2.0m (7ft) light spars 5 x 0.45 (1ft 6inch) staves 2 x 1.8m (6ft) staves 2 x 1.0m (3ft) staves I stick with a small branch stub 1 log counterweight A small spacer cut from a log approx 75mm in diameter and 75mm long 2 tins Method: The gate panel is built using 2 x 2m, 1 x 1m and 1 x 1.2m light spars - the 1m spar is lashed between the ends of the 2m spars and the 1.2m spar is lashed parallel to the 1m spar and approx 1.2m from it. This 1.2m spar forms the pivot post. The square of the gate is braced using the two 1.8m staves.

A small hole is dug in the ground and one of the tins set into it. A round pebble is placed in the tin then the gate is put in position, with the pivot post standing in the tin. The other tin is placed over the top of this same 1.2m spar.

A second 1.2m spar is driven into the ground next to the first one. The wooden spacer is put between the upper can and the top of the second 1.2m spar and lashed in place. Drive a third 1.2m spar approx 250mm (10) away from the second one and adjacent to the gate frame. Lash 2 x .45m (18) spars between the second and third 1.2m spars, between the horizontals of the gate frame. Use the 2 x 1m staves as cross bracing between these two uprights. Drive a further 1.2m spar 150mm (6) from the previous one and in line with it. Lash 1 x 0.45m spar between the tops of these last two vertical spars above the level of the gate frame. Drive one more 1.2m spar vertically at the other end of the gate frame for the gate to shut against.

Pioneering Gateways
The final 1.2m spar is driven into the ground 150mm (6) from the previous one but at right angles to the gate. Join these two spars top and bottom with 0.45m spars. Tie the stick with the branch stub horizontally to these this frame for the gate shut onto. The log counterweight is placed next to the uprights. It should weigh approx the same as the gate itself. A rope is tied round it, then taken over the horizontal joining and tied on to the top of the gate so that the weight of the log will cause the gate to close again once it has been opened.

Pioneering Gateways Ladder/Rope gateway

Equipment: 4 x 2.4m (8ft) spars 10 x 1.5m (5ft) spars 5 x 2m (6ft) spars 4 x pickets 5 light ropes 31 lashings

Method: Prepare two identical ladders using the 2.4m (8ft) spars, each with 5 x 1.5m (5ft) rungs. Lay them on their sides and join the tops with 2 x 2m spars, which should be lashed just below the top rungs. Take two of the lengths of rope. In the centre of each tie three man harness knots, approx 0.3m (1ft) apart. The rope should then be tied to the top of the 2.4m (8ft) spars. The rope should be as tight as possible. (Ref man harness July 99 millennium dome) Thread the three remaining ropes across the top of the gateway through the loops of the man harness knots. Take care not to cross the ropes. Tie them off loosely to a rung on either side to prevent them slipping. Stand the gateway up in place, knock in a picket by each foot and lash the uprights of the gate to the pickets. Lay 1 x 2m spar between the bottom rungs. Adjust it so that on one side it only just rests on the rung. Lash it to the rung on the opposite side of the gateway (i.e. where there is the overhang). Use a square lashing but do not do any frapping turns, as this spar must pivot. Repeat the procedure with the other 2 x 2m spars on the next two rungs up. Untie the ropes, which go over the top of the gateway on the side that these 3 x 2m spars are lashed. Take one rope across the opening of the gate to the end of the top 2m spar and tie it in place. Take the centre rope and tie it to the end of the centre spar and tie the third rope to the bottom spar.

Untie the other end of the ropes and pull on them evenly to raise the three spars, thus allowing access through the gate. Make sure that the ropes are tied off securely if you want the gate to stay open! -

Pioneering Gateways

Lightweight Gateway
Introduction This is a gateway designed to be built with staves or light spars. It could be used for either a Patrol or Troop site and the materials are easy to transport. Equipment 4 x 2.5m (8 ft) spars 12 x 1.8m (6 ft) spars 7 x spars 1.2m (4 ft) spars 36 lashing lengths - 6mm polypropylene or sisal 4 x 5m (16 ft) ropes for guys Tent pegs

Method Using 6 x 1.8m spars and square lashings, create two similar triangular frames. Join these triangles by lashing a 1.2 m spar inside each corner. This forms the top of the gate. (a) Brace the base of this triangular prism with 2 x 1.8m spars. To construct the side frames, make two similar rectangles using 2 x 2.5m and 2 x 1.2m spars and cross brace each one with 2 x 1.8 m spars. The 2.5m uprights on each frame should be spaced so that they will just fit between the front and back triangles on the top of the gate. (b) Lay the top of the gate on one of its triangular faces. The sides of the gate are placed with the 1.2m cross pieces on the outside and the uprights are threaded into the base of the top frame.

Pioneering Gateways

The upper cross spars on the side frames are then lashed to the spars on the top of the gate. ( c) We suggest that you now lash two temporary spars between the bottom to the two side Diagram C frames to help retain its shape while it is being raised into an upright position. Also, tie four guys to the top corners of the side frames using a round turn and two half hitches. Stand the gate upright and peg out the guys. Remove the temporary spars and adjust the position of the bottom of the side frames. Drive in pegs next to the uprights and lash them to the spars.

Pioneering Gateways

Platform Gateway
Equipment for a basic gateway: 8 x 4m (12ft) spars 20 x 2.5 (8ft) spars 56 lashing lengths 4 x 10m guy ropes 8 very large tent pegs

Method Prepare two identical frames using 2 x 4m (12ft) spars and 4 x 2.5m (8ft) spars as below. Stand the frames on edge on spar AC so that AB and CD are vertical approx m (10ft) apart. Lash 2 x 4m (12ft) spars to join the two frames at point A and point B. These are the handrails for the platform. The sides of the platform are 2 further 4m (12ft) spars which are lashed parallel to the ones above approx 1.2 metres from the handrails spars. The platform is formed by lashing 2.5m (8ft) spars between these two 4m spars you will need about 12 spars, maybe more if they are of small diameter. Ensure that they will be on top of the supporting spars when the gateway is raised. Tie guys to the platform then raise the gateway into position. Guy it firmly and put in pegs at the bottom of each leg and lash the uprights to these pegs to stop the gateway moving. You could either prepare a rope ladder or do as we did, and use an ordinary ladder which was firmly tied to the platform.
This is the basic gateway. We replaced spars AC with longer spars and hung lanterns on the end of them. We also embellished the gateway with some fancy ropework (diagram B) to form an arch under the platform. This was most effective and was achieved as follows: A rope was tied to each corner of the platform and a line of clove hitches tied around the leg, equidistant along it the number of clove hitches should equal half the number of spars used to make up the platform. The bottom of the rope must be firmly anchored to the base of the leg. A long length of rope (we used 10mm polypropylene) is tied to the bottom clove hitch and taken up and round the end spar forming the platform; back through the second clove hitch from the bottom and up and over the next spar etc. This is repeated with each leg and forms a nice arch through which to walk.

Pioneering Gateways Star of David Gate

Equipment: 2 x 2.5 m spars 1 x 2m spar 3 x 1.2m light spars 4 guys 4 tent pegs Light line 1 large skewer

Method: Prepare two identical triangles using 6 x 1.2m light spars or bamboo canes Put one triangle on top of the other to form a 6-pointed star and lash them together where the spars cross. Make the gate frame using 2 x 2.5m spars and 1 x 2m spar. Tie the centres of three lengths of the light line, each approx. 3.5m long, to the centre of the 2m cross bar. Stand the frame vertically in place and guy it out. Knock in a large skewer at an angle at the centre point between the legs of the gate frame. It should be in the ground as far as it will go, with just the hook showing. Tie off the six ends of the ropes to the skewer. Hold the cane star parallel to the ground and about 1m above it. Hook each rope onto the points of the star. The tension on the ropes will hold the star in place.

This gateway can also be made with bamboo canes and elastic bands

Pioneering Gateways Tower Bridge Gateway

Introduction Being a Group from the Greater London area, our County badge includes a picture of Tower Bridge. This gateway was designed for a District camp. Equipment 11 x Spars 3.6 metres (12 feet) long 8 x Spars 2.5 metres (8 feet) long 16 x Spars 2.0 metres (7 feet) long 8 x Spars 3.0 metres (10 feet) long 5 x Spars 7.0 metres (21 feet) long [or 10 additional 3.6m] 8 x Staves 1.8 metre (6 feet) long 80 x lashing lengths 20 x light cords about 2 metres long 5 x ropes measuring 15-25 metres long 2 x pulleys Large pegs or pickets 2 flags Method The two towers are constructed lying on the ground about 2.5 metres apart with the butts of the 3.6 metre spars in line - [a]. Brace the top and bottom of each tower using 2.5 metre spars [b]. Add the vertical bracing to each side of both towers leaving enough room for the upper struts - [c] bracing [b] omitted for clarity. Lash the upper struts between the towers, two on the front and one on the back. Ideally these will be 7.0 metres long, but could be made up of two shorter spars joined by sheer lashings. The pyramids and flag poles/flags are now attached to the top of the towers [d]. Attach the four main guys to the outermost corners of the structure. Now build a tripod and use it to raise the gate, as for the hourglass tower. The two guys attached to the front of the gate can be tied together to form a yoke which, with the use of a pulley, will ensure an even lift - [e].

Pioneering Gateways

Lash one bridge support across the inner face of each tower The actual bridge members are each made up of two spars. upper bridge members to the top of the bridge support of suspending the other ends from the centre of the upper lash the lower bridge members to the underside of the supports. Bind the upper and lower members on each side Tower Bridge

-[f]. Lash the each side, strut. Then bridge together.

Helpful Hint: It is recommended that two spars be lashed temporarily between the feet of the towers to keep them in line during the lift.

Pioneering Towers Brynback Tower

Introduction This is a fairly straightforward tower which is strong because it consists of lots of triangles. The height depends of the length of spars available. Equipment Tower: -

3 x spars 4.6m (15ft) minimum 6 x spars 2.5m (8ft) 6 x spars 1.8m (6ft) 4 x spars 1.2m (4ft) 32 lashings 3 x 10m ropes for guys 10 x small spars or large pegs 2.x 6.0m ropes 3 x spars 4.0m (13ft) 1 lashing 1 x 20m rope and matching pulley 2 x spars 2.5m (8ft) 1 lashing

Ladder: -

Tripod: -

Sheer legs: -

Method: Lash the 3 x 4.6m spars together, using a figure of eight lashing approx. two thirds of the way up from the butts. Stand the tripod up then lash 3 of the 2.5m spars between them, using square lashings, approx. 0.5m up from the butts. Lay the structure back on its side supported at the figure of eight by a pair of sheer legs. (Diagram A) The remaining 2.5m spars are used as the platform supports and are held in place with square lashings. These should be approx. 0.7m below the top of the main spars. (B)

3 x 1.8m spars are used as handrail support and are lashed to the end of a platform support and the corresponding main spar. (C) The last 3 x 1.8m spars are then used as the handrail and lashed between the handrail supports. (D)

Pioneering Towers
The 1.2m spars are used to form the actual platform. The 3 x 10m ropes are attached to the structure just above the platform to act as guys. Construct the rope ladder and attach it to a platform support spar. Stand the tower up. As the structure is quite heavy, the best way to raise it is using a tripod and pulley as we did for the hourglass tower. Peg out the guys, drive in more pegs near the feet of the tower and lash them securely. Rope Ladder The rope ladder is made using the marlinspike hitch. The trick is to work from the top of the ladders and tie both ropes to the centre of each rung. The rungs need to be approx./ 0.4m (16) apart. Once the ladder is complete the ropes are moved out to the end of the rungs. The knot part of the marlinspike hitch needs to be below the rungs. (a) If the bottom of the ladder is tied to a lower spar it can be climbed like a normal ladder.

Brynbach Tower

Pioneering Towers

Lookout Tower
Equipment 4 x 3.6m-5m (12-16ft) spars 8 x 2.5m (8ft) spars 6 x 2m (6ft) spars Approx 24 x 2m (6ft) light spars 4 x 1.5m (4ft) light spars Lashing lengths Rope ladder Large pegs or pickets Optional to raise the tower 3 x 3.5m (12ft) spars 3 x ropes approx 20m (65ft) long 1 pulley Method Start by making 2 trestles using the longest spars for the sides, a 2m spar for the top rail and a 2.5m spar for the bottom rail. Brace each side with a single 2.5m spar. Lay the trestles on their sides and join them using 2 x 2m spars and 2 x 2.5m spars. Ensure these top rails are in top of the existing rails, as they will form the supports for the platform. Brace the sides with two more 2.5m spars. The platform is made from lightweight spars or staves that may not have sufficient strength to span the two-metre gap, so lash two additional 2m spars across the top of the tower. Reserve 4 x 2m light spars then lash the remaining to form the floor of the platform. Use the 4 x 1.5m spars as uprights for the handrail and join them with the reserved 4 x 2m light spars for handrails. Brace if necessary. Tie the rope ladder to one of the top rails. To raise the tower, prepare a tripod and hang the pulley from the centre. Position this about 10m from the base of the tower. Tie two long ropes to the back corners of the tower (not the handrail). Fix the third rope to the middle of the front of the tower and feed it through the pulley. Use this rope to raise the tower while it is steadied by others using the back ropes. Peg the bottom of the rope ladder to the ground. The tower should be stable enough to be free standing but if you have the slightest doubt, knock in large pegs or pickets by each foot and lash the legs to them and/or guy it.

Pioneering Towers

The Signal Tower

This tower was originally designed by John Thurman who suggested that it should be a substantial project some 24ft (7.3m) high. Unfortunately, few Groups or campsites have very long spars these days, as they are difficult to store and require careful handling. However, you could try a smaller version.

Equipment: 12 x 4m (12ft) spars 18 x 1.8 (6ft) spars 4 x 1.8m (6ft) spars for the roof (optional extra) 8 x 1.8 (6ft) spars for sheer legs 14 x 4m (12ft) spars for lifting gantries 2 handy billies 65 lashing lengths 4 x 10m (30ft) ropes for guys 1 x 15m (50ft) rope for raising tower 4 pickets 1 maul 4 large tent pegs

Method: This is one of those towers which is easy to build in theory, but more difficult in practice. We suggest that you try building a model version before you start on the real thing. It consists of four identical sides as shown in the diagram. Although this looks quite straightforward, do not be deceived. When it comes to lashing all the spars in place, on all four sides, it can be difficult fitting them in and some adjustments will need to be made to allow room for them. Use your own judgment and do not be afraid to experiment. We suggest that you start by making two frames identical to the ones above, using 4 x 4m (12ft) spars and 3 x 1.8m (6ft) spars for each. The top two 1.8m (6ft) spars should be about 1m apart as they form the platform and handrail. Build 4 pairs of sheer legs and support one of the frames on them so that it lays horizontally about 1.2m (4ft) above the ground. It would pay at this point to attach temporary guys to the corners of the frame and peg them out so that the whole thing is stable.

Pioneering Towers
Now lay the second frame on the first with a few spare spars between them to act as spacers. Stand 6 x 1.8m (6ft) spars against the frames where the 1.8m and 4m spars cross (points a1, a2 and a3 on each side) and lash them to the top frame. Whilst is going on, other members of the team could be producing two lifting gantries. These are simply 4 large tripods; each constructed using 3 x 4m (12ft) spars and a tripod lashing. The tripods are placed two either side of the tower with a spar between them. A handy billy is attached to the centre of each cross spar. The handy billies are attached to the top frame of the tower which is then raised until the ends of the vertical 1.8m (6ft) spars are in the correct place to lash to the lower frame of the tower. The cross bracing on the other two sides should now be done. This is where you will need to use your initiative and fit the spars in wherever it seems most appropriate but do remember that the feet should all touch the ground when the tower is lifted upright. Prepare a rope ladder and tie it firmly to the platform. Lash sufficient 1.8m (6ft) spars across the 1.8m spars already in place (the middle set) to make a platform. It might be nice to add a roof to provide some shade on the platform. A pitched roof covered with a canvas sheet, or thatched with grass or ferns would be great. Finally, the tower should be raised to the vertical. The use of a tripod and some pulleys may be necessary. Ensure that the feet are dug into the ground. Guy it as appropriate.

Pioneering Towers Hour Glass Tower

The tower is constructed from two large pyramids interlocked together. It must be built on its side then raised vertically with the aid of an additional tripod of spars. Care must be taken to ensure that all the equipment used is in excellent condition and that the lashings are really tight. We recommend that you make a model from garden canes first as this will help you to see where things are meant to go and how the tower fits together everything looks very different when lying on its side! Equipment 9 x spars 3.6m long 6 x spars 2.5m long 2 x spars 2m long 10 x light spars for the platform 26 x lashing lengths 3 x ropes 15-25m long for raising the platform 1 pulley suitable for the above rope Guy ropes Additional ropes for the platform 1 ladder/rope ladder Method Using 3 x 3.6m spars and a figure of 8 lashing, build a tripod. Using square lashings, fix 3 x 2.5m spars across the butt ends. (a) This is the base unit lay it on its side. Prepare a second tripod with 3 more 3.5m long spars. Feed one leg of the tripod through the apex of the base unit. Complete the top unit by lashing 3 x 2.5m spars close to the butt ends this will form the handrail. (b) Once the frames have been positioned correctly, lash the main spars together using square lashings. Note: although the spars cross at an acute angle, you must use a square lashing. Add additional strength by lashing the apex of each tripod to the opposite main spars using a round turn and two half hitches. (c) Build a tripod using the remaining long spars and hang the pulley to its apex. Position this about 10m from the tower. Fix the long ropes to the apex of the base unit and feed the upper one through the pulley the other two ropes are used to keep the tower steady as it is raised. Once the tower is upright, check that the top is level. Lower it again and make any necessary adjustments.

Pioneering Towers
While the tower is horizontal, fit the platform by lashing the 3 x 2m spars about 1m below the handrail and lashing the light spars across them. Attach the rope ladder to the platform and the lower horizontal spar. Attach guy ropes to the main spars above the handrail. Raise the tower.

Hour Glass Tower

Pioneering Towers Tower

This tower is much easier to build than it is to describe! It is extremely stable and is a cross between the Dan Beard and the lookout towers. Equipment Tower 5 x 5m (16ft) spars 8 x 2m (6ft) spars 6 x 1.2m (4ft) light spars 4 x 2m (6ft) light spars 56 lashings 2 x 8m ropes and pegs for rope ladder 4 pickets and 4 x 10m ropes for guys Tripod 3 x 5m (16ft) spars 3 x 2.5m (8ft) spars 10 lashing lengths 1 single wheel pulley 1 x 20m rope to suit pulley Large tent pegs Method Using 6 x 5m spars, prepare 3 pairs of identical sheer legs. The sheer lashings should be approx. 3m from the butts. Lay one pair of sheer legs on the ground with the butts approx. 2.2m apart. Stand the second pair of sheer legs vertically against one side of the first pair. Lash the adjacent ends of the first and second pairs of legs together - as near to the ends as possible. Take a 2m spar and lash it between the lower spar of the second (vertical) pair of sheer legs and the spar on the far side of the first (horizontal) pair, approx. 1.5m from the butts. (diagram A) Take the third pair of sheer legs and stand them vertically on the other side of the horizontal legs. Lash the ends of the legs together. Lash another 2m spar from the upper leg of the third (vertical) pair to the horizontal (5m) leg, next to the 2m spar which is already in place. These 2 x 2m spars form two sides of a square. Complete the fourth side of the tower using a further 2 x 5m spars and lash them together where they cross. (diagram B) Lash 2 x 2m spars to alternate legs of the tower, 1.5m from the butts to complete the square bracing for the legs.

Pioneering Towers
While the tower is still horizontal, lash 4 x 2m spars approx. 1m down from the top of the 5m spars to form the basis of the platform. These must be lashed to the uprights that were NOT braced at the bottom. (diagram C)

We recommend that at this point the tower is raised to ensure that the platform is reasonably level. This is done by building a tripod using the 5m and 2.5m spars. The pulley is suspended from the apex and the rope threaded through the pulley and attached to the top of the tower. Once the platform has been checked the tower should be lowered and the light spars lashed in place. Ensure that they rest on the platform frame (not suspended underneath it). Lash the remaining spars to the top of the tower to form a handrail. Prepare a rope ladder of suitable length to reach from the platform to the ground and tie it in place. Raise the tower. This is an extremely stable structure but for your own peace of mind you will probably wish to guy it,

Pioneering Towers The Stilt Tower

This is an impressive project when built. It is less complicated than some other projects but relies on the lashings being 100%. The four guys are essential and the pickets must be well in. Equipment 2 x 5.5m (16ft) spars 2 x 2.5m (8ft) spars 5 x 2.0m (6ft) light spars 4 x 1.5m (5ft) light spars 4 x 1.2m (4ft) light spars 16 x 2.0m (6ft) staves 4 stout pickets 19 lashing lengths 34 lengths of light line Rope ladder 2 x 15m ropes for guys Method: Construct the main frame of the platform using the 5 x 2.0m light spars. Four form a square with the fifth in the centre. The layer of three spars support the staves which form the base of the platform. Construct two pairs of sheer legs the height of the crutch being equal to half the width of the platform frame. Stand the platform up on one edge so that the three spars are parallel to the ground. It is important that the frame is vertical.

Pass the smaller end of the 6m spars through the frame above the centre cross member, supporting the butt ends on the sheer legs. Make sure that the butt ends are the same distance from the base of the platform or your tower will not stand straight. The legs should project approx. 1.1m (3ft 6ins) above the platform frame. Lash the legs to the side members of the frame. These lashings are crucial to the strength of the structure Lash the 2 x 2.5m spars between the legs as cross bracing. The ends are secured with square lashings and, once in place, the two braces are lashed where they cross using a diagonal lashing.

Pioneering Towers
The 1.2m spars form the uprights for the handrail. Using light lines, lash one in each corner of the upper layer of the platform frame, making sure that they extend at least 1m above the frame. Lash 4 x 2m staves around the top of the handrail upright and the top of the support legs, again using light lines. They should be on the inside of the uprights so that they bear against them. The remaining staves form the base of the platform - lash them with the light lines at either end, on top of the upper layer of the frame - they will rest on the centre spar but do not need fixing there. The staves should be as close together as possible and, as there are lots of them, you could use the Japanese lashing. Attach the two 15m ropes to the top of the legs by using a clove hitch in the middle of the ropes, to act as guys. Prepare a rope ladder long enough to reach from the platform to the ground and tie to the platform. Remove the sheer legs and tip the tower so that the butts of the legs rest on the ground. In line with each leg, dig a hole 300 - 450 mm deep into which the legs can slide. Raise the tower by pulling the guys, allowing the legs to go into the holes.

Drive in pickets so that the guys go out at 450 to the tower. The guys need to be tight and you could use either a tent peg runner or a harvesters hitch to tighten them. Peg the bottom of the rope ladder down to make it easier to climb.

Pioneering Misc. Projects Ballista

This has all year round appeal. It can be used for snowballs in the winter and wet sponges in the summer! Equipment 9 x 6ft (2 metre) spars 1 x 8ft (2.5 metre) spar 1 x 12ft (3.5 metre) light spar/stave 2 x 6ft (2 metre) light spar/stave 15 lashing lengths Sisal or light cord Polythene bags e.g. bin liners Old frying pan Method Construct two similar A frames using 3 x 6ft (2 metre) spars with a sheer lashing at the top and a square lashing at either end of the cross bar. Join the two A frames at low level with two further 6ft (2 metre) spars. Lash the last 6ft spar between the A frames, half way up the struts and on the inside of the structure. Pad the crutch of each A- frame with polythene bags to act as a bearing then rest the 8ft (2.5m) spar on top. It may be necessary to tie these in place. (a) Tie a short length of sisal across the top of each A- frame to keep the 8ft spar from jumping out. (b) Using a square lashing, fix the 12ft light spar to the 8ft cross member. The long spar should be positioned so that when the 8ft spar rotates, the end of the 12ft spar will clear the bottom cross member but will connect with the upper one. (c) Two 6ft staves are lashed between the outer ends of the pivot (8ft spar) and the 12ft spar to act as a brace. The frying pan is fixed securely to the top end of the 12ft spar. The final two lashing lengths are fixed to the bottom of this spar, ensuring that they are clear of the upper cross member when pulled. For energetic use it may be necessary to guy out each A- frame and lash the feet to large pegs driven securely into the ground. For use - load the missile into the frying pan and pull on the ropes. Everyone else should stand clear!

Pioneering Misc. Projects

The two pulling ropes can be replaced with inner tubes.

To improve the performance, a sling attached to the top of the operating arm can replace the frying pan.

Pioneering Misc. Projects

Revised Wigan Flagpole

(The original design has been revised by adding two extra staves to the base to improve its stability)

Equipment
7 x staves 1.8m long 9 x light cords about 2m long 2 x light cords about 5m long 1 x small pulley and halyard from flag

Method
Lash together two staves using sheer lashings to make the staff for the flag. (a) To make the base, lay two staves on the floor 1.6m apart and lay two more staves across the ends to make a square. Use square lashings to hold these in place. Place the remaining stave across the centre of the two top-most staves and secure using square lashings. (b) Before you fix the flag staff on the base, attach the guy ropes by halving each of the long cords and tying them onto the staff with clove hitches. If you tie them just above the sheer lashings they will not slip down. Also attach the pulley and halyard to the top of the flagstaff. Finally, stand the staff upright and affix it to the centre of the base using another square lashing. The guy lines are attached to the base to stabilise the structure.

Pioneering Misc. Projects Flagpole

Rex Hendricksen of the 29th Cardiff Scout Group sent the design for this giant flagpole to us. They built it at a County competition some years ago and achieved a height of 56ft.

Equipment: 3 x 5m (16ft) spars 3 x 5m (16ft) light spars 4 lashing lengths 4 light lines 4 long ropes for guys 4 large pegs Single pulley with appropriate light cord or halyard approx 30m (100ft) long

Method This flagpole is created by using a series of interlocking tripods with the 3 x 5m spars together at the bottom of the flagpole. At each join, put in a second tripod (figure of eight) lashing. This gives the structure greater rigidity than using sheer lashings and prevents the spars twisting. Attach the pulley to the top, light spar and thread the halyard through. Attach the guys to the flagpole. Raise the pole and peg out the guys.

Pioneering Misc. Projects

Table and Benches

Equipment - Table 1 4 x 3.6 metre (12 ft) spars 7 x 3 metre (10 ft) spars Approximately 20 light spars x 2 metre (6 ft) long 20 x lashing lengths Sisal or light rope.

Method Construct 2 A- frames using 2 x 4 metre spars and 1 x 3 metre spar (a). Join the 2 A- frames together using 3 x 3 metre spars. The lower spars are lashed on the top of the bottom cross members of the A frames. Two more 3 metre spars are lashed between the A frames to support the table top (b). The last two 3 metre spars are lashed alongside the lower spars joining the A frames to form the bench seats.

The actual tabletop is made up of light spars that rest on the support members and are held in place with a couple of turns of sisal or light rope. If your lashings are good and tight the table is now complete, but it may be necessary to add a couple of guys for more stability.

Pioneering Misc. Projects

Deck chair
Equipment 2 x 2m (6ft) staves 2 x 1.5m (4ft 6) staves 7 x 1m (3ft) staves Method Prepare the first rectangular frame using 2 x 1m and 2 x 1.5m staves. The second rectangular frame is made up 2 x 1m and 2 x 2m staves. It must be narrow enough that it will fit through the first frame. Fit the two frames together and adjust the angle of the frames so that they will form a comfortable seat. Lash them where they cross. (Diagram A) Prepare the back support by lashing the remaining 1m staves together to form 3 sides of a rectangle. The points a and b should fit inside the first frame built, the other ends of these staves are lashed to the outside of the second, larger frame. (Diagram B) Using heavy-duty polythene or canvas to form the seat, stapling it firmly in place.

Pioneering Misc. Projects Table

Your table can be any height you like - big enough to prepare food on or just a small coffee table. You will need 9 staves all the same length plus two short ones for bracing. Prepare two identical side frames.

Join them with a further 3 staves.

Brace using diagonal ties from point (a) to the centre of the top of the frame opposite. The tabletop can be made of staves, wood or whatever is available.