ELECBOOK CLASSICS

The Naturalist on
the River Amazons
H E Bates
ISBN 1 84327 134 6

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The Naturalist on the
River Amazons
A Record of the Adventures, Habits of Animals, Sketches of
Brazilian and Indian Life, and Aspects of Nature under the
Equator, during Eleven Years of Travel.

By Henry Walter Bates, F.R.S.

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London SE12 8AJ
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From the Unabridged Edition

John Murray, London, 1892

Classics in Science: The Naturalist on the Amazons H. W. Bates

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AN APPRECIATION1
By CHARLES DARWIN
Author of “The Origin of Species,” etc.

IN April, 1848, the author of the present volume left England in

company with Mr. A. R. Wallace—“who has since acquired wide fame
in connection with the Darwinian theory of Natural Selection”—on a
joint expedition up the river Amazons, for the purpose of investigating
the Natural History of the vast wood-region traversed by that mighty
river and its numerous tributaries. Mr. Wallace returned to England after
four years’ stay, and was, we believe, unlucky enough to lose the greater
part of his collections by the shipwreck of the vessel in which he had
transmitted them to London. Mr. Bates prolonged his residence in the
Amazon valley seven years after Mr. Wallace’s departure, and did not
revisit his native country again until 1859. Mr. Bates was also more
fortunate than his companion in bringing his gathered treasures home to
England in safety. So great, indeed, was the mass of specimens
accumulated by Mr. Bates during his eleven years’ researches, that upon
the working out of his collection, which has been accomplished (or is
now in course of being accomplished) by different scientific naturalists in
this country, it has been ascertained that representatives of no less than
14,712 species are amongst them, of which about 8000 were
previously unknown to science. It may be remarked that by far the
greater portion of these species, namely, about 14,000, belong to the
class of Insects—to the study of which Mr. Bates principally devoted his
attention—being, as is well known, himself recognised as no mean

1
From Natural History Review, vol. iii. 1863.
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An Appreciation 6

authority as regards this class of organic beings. In his present volume,

however, Mr. Bates does not confine himself to his entomological
discoveries, nor to any other branch of Natural History, but supplies a
general outline of his adventures during his journeyings up and down the
mighty river, and a variety of information concerning every object of
interest, whether physical or political, that he met with by the way.
Mr. Bates landed at Pará in May, 1848. His first part is entirely
taken up with an account of the Lower Amazons—that is, the river from
its sources up to the city of Manaos or Barra do Rio Negro, where it is
joined by the large northern confluent of that name—and with a
narrative of his residence at Pará and his various excursions in the
neighbourhood of that city. The large collection made by Mr. Bates of
the animal productions of Pará enabled him to arrive at the following
conclusions regarding the relations of the Fauna of the south side of the
Amazonian delta with those of other regions.
“It is generally allowed that Guiana and Brazil, to the north and south
of the Pará district, form two distinct provinces as regards their animal
and vegetable inhabitants. By this it means that the two regions have a
very large number of forms peculiar to themselves, and which are
supposed not to have been derived from other quarters during modern
geological times. Each may be considered as a centre of distribution in,
the latest process of dissemination of species over the surface of tropical
America. Pará lies midway between the two centres, each of which has
a nucleus of elevated table-land, whilst the intermediate river-valley
forms a wide extent of low-lying country. It is, therefore, interesting to
ascertain from which the latter received its population, or whether it
contains so large a number of endemic species as would warrant the
conclusion that it is itself an independent province. To assist in deciding
such questions as these, we must compare closely the species found in

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An Appreciation 7

the district with those of the other contiguous regions, and endeavour to
ascertain whether they are identical, or only slightly modified, or
whether they are highly peculiar.
“Von Martius when he visited this part of Brazil forty years ago,
coming from the south, was much struck with the dissimilarity of the
animal and vegetable productions to those of other parts of Brazil. In
fact the Fauna of Pará, and the lower part of the Amazons has no close
relationship with that of Brazil proper; but it has a very great affinity
with that of the coast region of Guiana, from Cayenne to Demerara. If
we may judge from the results afforded by the study of certain families
of insects, no peculiar Brazilian forms are found in the Pará district;
whilst more than one-half of the total number are essentially Guiana
species, being found nowhere else but in Guiana and Amazonia. Many
of them, however, are modified from the Guiana type, and about one-
seventh seem to be restricted to Pará. These endemic species are not
highly peculiar, and they may yet be found over a great part of Northern
Brazil when the country is better explored. They do not warrant us in
concluding that the district forms an independent province, although
they show that its Fauna is not wholly derivative, and that the land is
probably not entirely a new formation. From all these facts, I think we
must conclude that the Pará district belongs to the Guiana province and
that, if it is newer land than Guiana, it must have received the great bulk
of its animal population from that region. I am informed by Dr. Sclater
that similar results are derivable from the comparison of the birds of
these countries.”
One of the most interesting excursions made by Mr. Bates from Pará
was the ascent of the river Tocantins—the mouth of which lies about 45
miles from the city of Pará. This was twice attempted. On the second
occasion—our author being in company with Mr. Wallace—the travellers

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An Appreciation 8

penetrated as far as the rapids of Arroyos, about 130 miles from its
mouth. This district is one of the chief collecting-grounds of the well-
known Brazil-nut (Bertholletia excelsa), which is here very plentiful,
grove after grove of these splendid trees being visible, towering above
their fellows, with the “woody fruits, large and round as cannon-balls,
dotted over the branches.” The Hyacinthine Macaw (Ara hyacinthina) is
another natural wonder, first met with here. This splendid bird, which is
occasionally brought alive to the Zoological Gardens of Europe, “only
occurs in the interior of Brazil, from 16° S.L. to the southern border of
the Amazon valley.” Its enormous beak—which must strike even the
most unobservant with wonder—appears to be adapted to enable it to
feed on the nuts of the Mucujá Palm (Acrocomia lasiospatha). “These
nuts, which are so hard as to be difficult to break with a heavy hammer,
are crushed to a pulp by the powerful beak of this Macaw.”
Mr. Bates’ later part is mainly devoted to his residence at Santarem,
at the junction of the Rio Tapajos with the main stream, and to his
account of Upper Amazon, or Solimoens—the Fauna of which is, as we
shall presently see, in many respects very different from that of the lower
part of the river. At Santarem—“the most important and most civilised
settlement on the Amazon, between the Atlantic and Pará”—Mr. Bates
made his headquarters for three years and a half, during which time
several excursions up the little-known Tapajos were effected. Some 70
miles up the stream, on its affluent, the Cuparí, a new Fauna, for the
most part very distinct from that of the lower part of the same stream,
was entered upon. “At the same time a considerable proportion of the
Cuparí species were identical with those of Ega, on the Upper Amazon,
a district eight times further removed than the village just mentioned.”
Mr. Bates was more successful here than on his excursion up the
Tocantins, and obtained twenty new species of fishes, and many new

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An Appreciation 9

and conspicuous insects, apparently peculiar to this part of the

Amazonian valley.
In a later chapter Mr. Bates commences his account of the
Solimoens, or Upper Amazons, on the banks of which he passed four
years and a half. The country is a “magnificent wilderness, where
civilised man has, as yet, scarcely obtained a footing—the cultivated
ground, from the Rio Negro to the Andes, amounting only to a few score
acres.” During the whole of this time Mr. Bates’ headquarters were at
Ega, on the Teffé, a confluent of the great river from the south, whence
excursions were made sometimes for 300 or 400 miles into the interior.
In the intervals Mr. Bates followed his pursuit as a collecting naturalist
in the same “peaceful, regular way,” as he might have done in a
European village. Our author draws a most striking picture of the quiet,
secluded life he led in this far-distant spot. The difficulty of getting news
and the want of intellectual society were the great drawbacks—“the
latter increasing until it became almost insupportable.” “I was obliged at
last,” Mr. Bates naïvely remarks, “to come to the conclusion that the
contemplation of Nature alone is not sufficient to fill the human heart
and mind.” Mr. Bates must indeed have been driven to great straits as
regards his mental food, when, as he tell us, he took to reading the
Athenæum three times over, “the first time devouring the more
interesting articles—the second, the whole of the remainder—and the
third, reading all the advertisements from beginning to end.”
Ega was, indeed, as Mr. Bates remarks, a fine field for a Natural
History collector, the only previous scientific visitants to that region
having been the German Naturalists, Spix and Martius, and the Count
de Castelnau when he descended the Amazons from the Pacific. Mr.
Bates’ account of the monkeys of the genera Brachyurus, Nyctipithecus
and Midas met with in this region, and the whole of the very pregnant

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An Appreciation 10

remarks which follow on the American forms of the Quadrumana, will be

read with interest by every one, particularly by those who pay attention
to the important subject of geographical distribution. We need hardly say
that Mr. Bates, after the attention he has bestowed upon this question,
is a zealous advocate of the hypothesis of the origin of species by
derivation from a common stock. After giving an outline of the general
distribution of Monkeys, he clearly argues that unless the “common
origin at least of the species of a family be admitted, the problem of
their distribution must remain an inexplicable mystery.” Mr. Bates
evidently thoroughly understands the nature of this interesting problem,
and in another passage, in which the very singular distribution of the
Butterflies of the genus Heliconius is enlarged upon, concludes with the
following significant remarks upon this important subject:—

“In the controversy which is being waged amongst Naturalists

since the publication of the Darwinian theory of the origin of
species, it has been rightly said that no proof at present existed of
the production of a physiological species, that is, a form which
will not interbreed with the one from which it was derived,
although given ample opportunities of doing so, and does not
exhibit signs of reverting to its parent form when placed under the
same conditions with it. Morphological species, that is, forms
which differ to an amount that would justify their being considered
good species, have been produced in plenty through selection by
man out of variations arising under domestication or cultivation.
The facts just given are therefore of some scientific importance, for
they tend to show that a physiological species can be and is
produced in nature out of the varieties of a pre-existing closely

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allied one. This is not an isolated case, for I observed in the course
of my travels a number of similar instances. But in very few has it
happened that the species which clearly appears to be the parent,
co-exists with one that has been evidently derived from it.
Generally the supposed parent also seems to have been modified,
and then the demonstration is not so clear, for some of the links in
the chain of variation are wanting. The process of origination of a
species in nature as it takes place successively, must be ever,
perhaps, beyond man’s power to trace, on account of the great
lapse of time it requires. But we can obtain a fair view of it by
tracing a variable and far-spreading species over the wide area of
its present distribution; and a long observation of such will lead to
the conclusion that new species must in all cases have arisen out
of variable and widely-disseminated forms. It sometimes happens,
as in the present instance, that we find in one locality a species
under a certain form which is constant to all the individuals
concerned; in another exhibiting numerous varieties; and in a third
presenting itself as a constant form quite distinct from the one we
set out with. If we meet with any two of these modifications living
side by side, and maintaining their distinctive characters under
such circumstances, the proof of the natural origination of a
species is complete; it could not be much more so were we able to
watch the process step by step. It might be objected that the
difference between our two species is but slight, and that by
classing them as varieties nothing further would be proved by
them. But the differences between them are such as obtain
between allied species generally. Large genera are composed in
great part of such species, and it is interesting to show the great
and beautiful diversity within a large genus as brought about by

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An Appreciation 12

the working of laws within our comprehension.”

But to return to the Zoological wonders of the Upper Amazon, birds,

insects, and butterflies are all spoken of by Mr. Bates in his chapter on
the natural features of the district, and it is evident that none of these
classes of beings escaped the observation of his watchful intelligence.
The account of the foraging ants of the genus Eciton is certainly
marvellous, and would, even of itself, be sufficient to stamp the recorder
of their habits as a man of no ordinary mark.
The last chapter of Mr. Bates’ work contains the account of his
excursions beyond Ega. Fonteboa, Tunantins—a small semi-Indian
settlement, 240 miles up the stream—and San Paulo de Olivença, some
miles higher up, were the principal places visited, and new acquisitions
were gathered at each of these localities. In the fourth month of Mr.
Bates’ residence at the last-named place, a severe attack of ague led to
the abandonment of the plans he had formed of proceeding to the
Peruvian towns of Pebas and Moyobamba, and “so completing the
examination of the Natural History of the Amazonian plains up to the
foot of the Andes.” This attack, which seemed to be the culmination of a
gradual deterioration of health, caused by eleven years’ hard work under
the tropics, induced him to return to Ega, and finally to Pará, where he
embarked, on the 2nd June 1859, for England. Naturally enough, Mr.
Bates tells us he was at first a little dismayed at leaving the equator,
“where the well-balanced forces of Nature maintain a land-surface and a
climate typical of mind, and order and beauty,” to sail towards the
“crepuscular skies” of the cold north. But he consoles us by adding the
remark that “three years’ renewed experience of England” have
convinced him “how incomparably superior is civilised life to the

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spiritual sterility of half-savage existence, even if it were passed in the

Garden of Eden.”

The following is the list of H. W. Bates’ published works:—

Contributions to an Insect Fauna of the Amazon Valley, Paper read

before the Linnean Society, June 21, 1861; The Naturalist on the
Amazons, a Record of Adventure, Habits of Animals, Sketches of
Brazilian and Indian Life . . . during Eleven Years of Travel, 1863;
3rd Edition, 1873, with a Memoir of the author by E. Clodd to
reprint of unabridged edition, 1892. Bates was for many years the
editor of the Transactions of the Royal Geographical Society; the
following works were edited and revised, or supplemented by
him:—Mrs. Somerville’s Physical Geography, 1870; A. Humbert,
Japan and the Japanese, 1874; C. Koldewey, the German Arctic
Expedition, 1874; P.E. Warburton, Journey across the Western
Interior of Australia, 1875; Cassell’s Illustrated Travels, 6 vols.,
1869-1875; E. Whymper, Travels among the Great Andes of the
Equator (Introduction to Appendix volume), 1892, etc.; Central
America, the West Indies and South America; Stanford’s
Compendium of Geography and Travel, and revised Ed., 1882; he
also added a list of Coleoptera collected by J.S. Jameson on the
Aruwini to the latter’s Story of the Rear Column of the Emin Pasha
Relief Expedition, etc., 1890; and an appendix to a catalogue of
Phytophaga by H. Clark, 1866, etc.; and contributed a
biographical notice of Keith Johnson to J. Thomson’s Central
African Lakes and Back, 1881.

He contributed largely to the Zoologist, Entomological Society’s

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An Appreciation 14

Journal, Annals and Magazine of Natural History, and

Entomologist.

LIFE.—Memoir by E. Clodd, 1892; short notice in Clodd’s

Pioneers of Evolution, 1897.

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AUTHOR’S PREFACE TO THE EDITION OF 1864

H
AVING been urged to prepare a new edition of this work for a
wider circle than that contemplated in the former one, I have
thought it advisable to condense those portions which, treating
of abstruse scientific questions, presuppose a larger amount of Natural
History knowledge than an author has a right to expect of the general
reader. The personal narrative has been left entire, together with those
descriptive details likely to interest all classes, young and old, relating to
the great river itself, and the wonderful country through which it
flows,—the luxuriant primæval forests that clothe almost every part of it,
the climate, productions, and inhabitants.
Signs are not wanting that this fertile, but scantily peopled region will
soon become, through recent efforts of the Peruvian and Brazilian
governments to make it accessible and colonise it, of far higher
importance to the nations of Northern Europe than it has been hitherto.
The full significance of the title, the “largest river in the world,” which
we are all taught in our schoolboy days to apply to the Amazons,
without having a distinct idea of its magnitude, will then become
apparent to the English public. It will be new to most people, that this
noble stream has recently been navigated by steamers to a distance of
2200 geographical miles from its mouth at Pará; or double the distance
which vessels are able to reach on the Yang-tze-Kiang, the largest river
of the old world; the depth of water in the dry season being about seven
fathoms up to this terminus of navigation. It is not, however, the length
of the trunk stream, that has earned for the Amazons the appellation of
the “Mediterranean of South America,” given it by the Brazilians of Pará;
but the network of by-channels and lakes, which everywhere
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Author’s Preface 16

accompanies its course at a distance from the banks, and which adds
many thousands of miles of easy inland navigation to the total presented
by the main river and its tributaries. The Peruvians, especially, if I may
judge from letters received within the past few weeks, seem to be
stirring themselves to grasp the advantages which the possession of the
upper course of the river places within their reach. Vessels of heavy
tonnage have arrived in Pará, from England, with materials for the
formation of ship-building establishments, at a point situated two
thousand miles from the mouth of the river. Peruvian steamers have
navigated from the Andes to the Atlantic, and a quantity of cotton (now
exported for the first time), the product of the rich and healthy country
bordering the Upper Amazons, has been conveyed by this means, and
shipped from Pará to Europe. The probability of general curiosity in
England being excited before long with regard to this hitherto neglected
country, will be considered, of itself, a sufficient reason for placing an
account of its natural features and present condition within reach of all
readers.

LONDON, January, 1864.

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Contents
Click on number to go to page

AN APPRECIATION By CHARLES DARWIN ......................................5

AUTHOR’S PREFACE TO THE EDITION OF 1864............................15
List of Illustrations .......................................................................21
CHAPTER I PARÁ........................................................................22
Arrival—Aspect of the Country—The Pará River—First
Walk in the Suburbs of Pará—Birds, Lizards, and Insects
of the Suburbs—Leaf-carrying Ant—Sketch of the
Climate, History, and present Condition of Pará
CHAPTER II PARÁ.......................................................................50
The Swampy Forests of Pará—A Portuguese Landed
Proprietor—Country House at Nazareth—Life of a
Naturalist under the Equator—The drier Virgin Forests—
Magoary—Retired Creeks—Aborigines
CHAPTER III PARÁ......................................................................78
Religious Holidays—Marmoset Monkeys—Serpents—
Insects
CHAPTER IV THE TOCANTINS AND CAMETÁ.................................95
Preparations for the Journey—The Bay of Goajará—Grove
of fan-leaved Palms—The lower Tocantins—Sketch of the
River—Vista alegre—Baiao—Rapids—Boat Journey to the
Guariba Falls—Native Life on the Tocantins—Second
Journey to Cametá
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CHAPTER V CARIPÍ AND THE BAY OF MARAJÓ ...........................137

River Pará and Bay of Marajó—Journey to Caripí—Negro
Observance of Christmas—A German Family—Bats—Ant-
eaters—Humming-birds—Excursion to the Murucupí—
Domestic Life of the Inhabitants—Hunting Excursion with
Indians—White Ants
CHAPTER VI THE LOWER AMAZONS—PARA TO
OBYDOS ..................................................................................168
Modes of Travelling on the Amazons—Historical Sketch of
the early Explorations of the River—Preparations for
Voyage—Life on Board a large Trading-vessel—The
narrow Channels joining the Pará to the Amazons—First
Sight of the Great River—Gurupá—The Great Shoal—
Flat-topped Mountains—Santarem—Obydos
CHAPTER VII THE LOWER AMAZONS—OBYDOS TO
MANAOS, OR THE BARRA OF THE RIO NEGRO ...........................200
Departure from Obydos—River Banks and By-channels—
Cacao Planters—Daily Life on Board our Vessel—Great
Storm—Sand-island and its Birds—Hill of Parentins—
Negro Trader and Mauhés Indians—Villa Nova, its
Inhabitants, Forest, and Animal Productions—
Cararaucú—A rustic Festival—Lake of Cararaucú—
Motúca Flies—Serpa—Christmas Holidays—River
Madeira—A Mameluco Farmer—Mura Indians—Rio
Negro—Description of Barra—Descent to Pará—Yellow
Fever

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CHAPTER VIII SANTAREM .........................................................255

Situation of Santarem—Manners and Customs of the
Inhabitants—Climate—Grassy Campos and Woods—
Excursions to Mapirí, Mahicá, and Irurá, with Sketches of
their Natural History; Palms, wild Fruit-trees, Mining
Wasps, Mason Wasps, Bees, and Sloths
CHAPTER IX VOYAGE UP THE TAPAJOS .....................................290
Preparations for Voyage—First Day’s Sail—Loss of Boat—
Altar do Chao—Modes of obtaining Fish—Difficulties with
Crew—Arrival at Aveyros—Excursions in the
Neighbourhood—White Cebus and Habits and
Dispositions of Cebi Monkeys—Tame Parrot—Missionary
Settlement—Enter the River Cuparí—Adventure with
Anaconda—Smoke-dried Monkey—Boa-constrictor—
Village of Mundurucú Indians, and Incursion of a Wild
Tribe—Falls of the Cuparí—Hyacinthine Macaw—Re-
emerge into the broad Tapajos—Descent of River to
Santarem
CHAPTER X THE UPPER AMAZONS—VOYAGE TO
EGA.........................................................................................348
Departure from Barra—First Day and Night on the Upper
Amazons—Desolate Appearance of River in the Flood
Season—Cucáma Indians—Mental condition of Indians—
Squalls—Manatee—Forest—Floating Pumice-stones from
the Andes—Falling Banks—Ega and its Inhabitants—
Daily Life of a Naturalist at Ega—The Four Seasons of the
Upper Amazons

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CHAPTER XI EXCURSIONS IN THE

NEIGHBOURHOOD OF EGA .......................................................399
The River Teffé—Rambles through Groves on the Beach—
Excursion to the House of a Passé Chieftain—Character
and Customs of the Passé Tribe—First Excursion to the
Sand Islands of the Solimoens—Habits of Great River-
turtle—-Second Excursion—Turtle-fishing in the Inland
Pools—Third Excursion—Hunting-rambles with Natives in
the Forest—Return to Ega
CHAPTER XII ANIMALS OF THE NEIGHBOURHOOD
OF EGA....................................................................................463
Scarlet-faced Monkeys—Parauacú Monkey—Owl-faced
Night-apes—Marmosets—Jupurá—Bats—Birds—Cuvier’s
Toucan—Curl-crested Toucan—Insects—Foraging Ants—
Blind Ants
CHAPTER XIII EXCURSIONS BEYOND EGA ..................................505
Steamboat Travelling on the Amazons—Passengers—
Tunantins—Caishána Indians—The Jutahí—The Sapó—
Marauá Indians—Fonte Boa—Journey to St. Paulo—
Tucúna Indians—Illness—Descent to Pará—Changes at
Pará—Departure for England

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List of Illustrations
Click on number to go to page

Saüba or Leaf-carrying ant.—1. Worker-minor; 2. Worker-major; 3.

Subterranean worker....................................................................33
Saüba Ant.—Female. ...................................................................40
Interior of Primæval Forest on the Amazons ....................................68
Amphisbæna. .............................................................................91
Bird-killing spider (Mygale avicularia) attacking finches...................131
Humming-bird and Humming-bird Hawk-moth. .............................147
1-8. Soldiers of different species of White Ants.—9. Ordinary shape of
worker.—10. Winged class.........................................................166
Acari Fish (Loricaria duodecimalis). .............................................180
Flat-topped mountains of Parauá-quára, Lower Amazons ................184
Heliconius Thelxiope (top); Heliconius Melpomene (above). ............193
Cells of Trypoxylon aurifrons. ......................................................277
Melipona Bees gathering clay......................................................279
The Jacuarú (Teius teguexim)......................................................285
Acará (Mesonauta insignis). ........................................................338
Blow-gun, quiver, and arrow. ......................................................409
Surubim (Pimelodus tigrinus). .....................................................423
Night adventure with alligator .....................................................443
Curl-crested Toucan...................................................................485
Adventure with Curl-Crested Toucans ...........................................487
Sack-bearing Caterpillar (Saccophora). .........................................491
Foraging ants (Eciton drepanophora). ...........................................496
Map of the Amazons ..................................................................543

Classics in Science: The Naturalist on the Amazons H. W. Bates