The Project Gutenberg EBook of Italian Highways and Byways from a Motor Car !

rancis Miltoun This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoe"er# $ou may co%y it gi"e it away or re&use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg 'icense included with this eBook or online at www#gutenberg#org(license Title) Italian Highways and Byways from a Motor Car *uthor) !rancis Miltoun Illustrator) Blanche McManus +elease ,ate) -o"ember ./ 'anguage) English 777 8T*+T 9! THI8 P+9:ECT G;TE-BE+G EB99< IT*'I*- HIGH=*$8 *-, B$=*$8 777 01.2 3EBook 4550.06

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Produced by Chuck Greif and the 9nline ,istributed Proofreading Team at htt%)((www#%gd%#net >This file was %roduced from images a"ailable at The Internet *rchi"e?

E"ery attem%t has been made to re%licate the original book as %rinted# 8ome ty%ogra%hical errors ha"e been corrected# * list follows the te@t# -o attem%t has been made to correct or normaliAe the %rinted accentuation or s%elling of !rench and Italian names or words# 8ome illustration&markings ha"e been mo"ed from mid&%aragra%h for ease of reading# >ete@t transcriberBs note?

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Italian Highways and Byways !rom a Motor Car

CH*PTE+ I THE =*$ *B9;T IT*'$ 9ne tra"els in Italy chiefly in search of the %icturesFue but in !lorence +ome -a%les Jenice or Milan and in the larger towns lying between there is in s%ite of the romantic association of great names little that a%%eals to one in a %ersonal sense# 9ne admires what +uskin Hare or 8ymonds tells one to admire gets a smattering of the romantic history of the great families of the %alaces and "illas of +ome and !lorence but absorbs little or nothing of the genuine feudal traditions of the background regions away from the well&worn roads# *long the highways and byways runs the itinerary of the author and illustrator of this book and they ha"e thus been able to "iew many of the beauties and charms of the countryside which ha"e been unknown to most tra"ellers in Italy in these days of the modern railway# C*lla Cam%agnaC was our watchword as we set out to %ass as many of our Italian days and nights as %ossible in %laces little celebrated in %o%ular annals a better way of knowing Italy than one will e"er know it when "iewed sim%ly from the Jatican ste%s or !rascatiBs gardens# The %alaces and "illas of +ome !lorence and Jenice are known to most Euro%ean tra"ellers&&as they know Ca%ri Jesu"ius or *malfiP but of the grim castles of *ncona of +imini and +a"enna and of the classic charms of Taormina or of 8araAAa they know considerably lessP and still less of Monte CristoBs Island of Elba of 9tranto and of the little hidden&away mountain towns of the *l%s of Piedmont and the Jal dB*oste#

The automobile as a means of getting about has o%ened u% many old and half&used byways and the automobile tra"eller of to&day may confidently assert that he has come to know the countryside of a belo"ed land as it was not e"en %ossible for his grandfathers to know it# The Italian tour may be made as a conducted tour as an educati"e tour as a mere butterfly tour >as it often has been? or as a honeymoon tri% but the reason for its making is always the sameP the fact that Italy is a soft fair romantic land where many things ha"e e@isted and still e@ist that may be found nowhere else on earth# The romance of tra"el and the %rocess of gathering legends and tales of local manners and customs is in no way s%oiled because of modern means of tra"el# Many a hitherto une@%loited locality with as worthy a monumental shrine as many more celebrated will now become accessible %erha%s e"en well known# The %ilgrim goes to Italy because of his de"otion to religion or to art or architecture and since this is the reason for his going it is this reason too which has caused the making of more tra"el books on Italy than on all other continental countries combined# There are some who affect only Hold mastersH or literary shrines others who cra"e %alaces or "illas and yet others who haunt the roulette tables of Monte Carlo BiarritA or some e@clusi"e Club in the HEternal City#H Euro%ean tra"el is all things to all men# The %ilgrims that come to Italy in increasing numbers each year are not all born and bred of artistic tastes but the e@%edition soon brings a glimmer of it to the most sordid soul that e"er took his amusements a%art from his edification and therein lies the secret of %leasurable tra"el for all classes# The automobilist should bear this in mind and not eat u% the roadway through Nmilia at si@ty miles an hour sim%ly because it is %ossible# There are things to see en route though none of your s%eeding friends ha"e e"er mentioned them# Get acFuainted with them yourself and %ass the information on to the ne@t# That is what the automobile is doing for modern tra"el&&more than the stage or the railway e"er did and more than the aero%lane e"er willT 9ne does not forget the *merican who went home to the H!ar =estH and recalled +ome as the city where he bought an alleged %anama hat >made %robably at 'eghorn?# He is no myth# 9ne sees his like e"ery day# He who hurried his daughter away from the dim outlined aisles of MilanBs Gothic wonder to see the new electric light works and the model tramway station was one of these but he was the better for ha"ing done a round of the cathedrals of Italy e"en if he did get a haAy idea of them mi@ed u% with his %ractical obser"ations on street&lighting and trans%ortation# 8u%erficial Italian itineraries ha"e been made often and their chronicles set down# They are still being made and chronicled but the makers of guide books ha"e as yet catered but little to the class of leisurely tra"ellers a class who would like to know where some of these une@%loited monuments e@istP where these unfamiliar histories and legends may be heard and how they may all be arri"ed at absorbed and digested# The %eo%le of the countryside too are usually more interesting than those of the towns# 9ne has only to com%are the Italian %easant and his %icturesFue life with the to%&hatted and frock&coated +oman of to&day to arri"e Fuickly to a conclusion as to which is ty%ical of his surroundings# The Medicis the Borgias and the Colonnas ha"e gone and to find the real romantic Italian and his manner of life one has to hunt him in the small towns# The modern tra"eller in Italy by road will do well to recall the conditions which met the tra"eller of %ast days# The mere recollection

of a few names and dates will enable the automobilist to classify his im%ressions on the road in a more definite and satisfying manner than if he took no cogniAance of the %ilgrims who ha"e gone before# Chaucer set out ostensibly for Genoa in .2/2 and incidentally met Petrarch at Padua and talked sho%# * monk named !eli@ from ;lm on the banks of the ,anube en route for :erusalem sto%%ed off at Jenice and wrote things down about it in his diary which he called a Hfaithful descri%tion#H *lbrecht ,urer "isited Jenice in .E1E and made friends with many there and from Jenice went to Bologna and !errara# *n English crusading knight in the same century Htook inH Italy en route to the Holy 'and entering the country "ia ChambUry and *iguebelle&&the most delightful gateway e"en to&day# *utomobilists should work this itinerary out on some diagrammatic road ma%# Martin 'uther Hwith some business to transact with the Po%eBs Jicar H %assed through Milan Pa"ia Bologna and !lorence on his way to +ome and +abelais in .E20 followed in the train of Cardinal du Bellay and his account of how he Hsaw the Po%eH is interesting reading in these days when e"en %ersonally&conducted tourists look forward to the same thing# :oachim du BellayBs H"isions of +omeH are good %oetry but as he was %artisan to his own belo"ed C'oire gauloisC to the dis%aragement of the CTiber latinC their to%ogra%hical worth is somewhat discounted# 8ir Phili% 8idney was in Padua and Jenice in .E/2 and he brought back a %ortrait of himself %ainted in the latter city by Paul Jeronese as tourists to&day carry away wine glasses with their initials embossed on them# The sentiment is the same but taste was better in the old days# +ubens was at Jenice in .K11 and there are those who say that 8hakes%eare got his local colour Hon the s%ot#H Mr# 8idney 'ee says noT Back to the land as ,ante Petrarch e"en Horace and Jirgil ha"e said# ,ante the wayfarer was a mighty tra"eller and so was Petrach# Horace and Jirgil took their "iew%oints from the +oman ca%ital but they %enned faithful %ictures which in setting and colouring ha"e in but few instances changed unto this day# ,ante is belie"ed to ha"e been in +ome when the first sentence was %assed u%on him and from the Eternal City one can follow his journeyings northward by easy stages to 8iena and *reAAo to the *l%s to Padua on the *emilian =ay his wandering on +oman roads his flight by sea to Marseilles again at Jerona and finally at +a"enna the last refuge# This was an Italian itinerary worth the doing# =hy should we modern tra"ellers not take some historical %ersonage and follow his >or her? footste%s from the cradle to the gra"eV To follow in the footste%s of :eanne dB*rc of ,ante *lighieri or of Petrarch and his 'aura&&though their ways were widely di"ergent&&or of Henri IJ !ranWois I or Charles J would add a Aest and reason for being to an automobile tour of Euro%e which no twenty&four hour record from 'ondon to Monte Carlo or eighteen hours from -a%les to Gene"a could %ossibly ha"e# There is another class of tra"ellers who will %refer to wa@ solemn o"er the notorious journey to Italy of *lfred de Musset and Georges 8and# It was a most romantic tri% as the world knows# ,e Musset e"en had to ask his motherBs consent to make it# The %ast mistress of eloFuence a%%eared at once on the maternal threshold and %romised to look after the young man&&like a mother# ,e MussetBs brother saw the %air off Hon a misty melancholy e"ening H and noted amongst other dark omens that Hthe coach in which the tra"ellers took their seats was the thirteenth to lea"e the yard H but for the life of us we cannot share his solemnity# The tra"ellers met

8tendhal at 'yons# *fter su%%er Hhe was "ery danced round the table in his big to%boots#H make u% their minds whether to go to +ome or matter by the toss of a coin# Is it %ossible fortunes of two such heedless cynicsV

merry got rather drunk and In !lorence they could not to Jenice and settled the to care much for the

It is such itineraries as ha"e here been outlined the %icking u% of more or less indistinct trails and following them a while that gi"es that %eculiar charm to Italian tra"el# -ot the dreamy idling mood that the sentimentalists would ha"e us ado%t but a burning fe"erishness that hardly allows one to linger before any indi"idual shrine# +ather one is %ushed from behind and drawn from in front to an e"er unreachable goal# 9ne ne"er finishes his Italian tra"els# 9nce the habit is formed it becomes a disease# =e care not that Cimabue is no longer considered to be throned the %ainter of the celebrated Madonna in 8anta Maria -o"ella or that *ndrea del 8arto and his wife are no longer *ndrea del 8arto and his wife so long as we can wea"e together a fabric which %leases us regardless of the new criticism &&or the old for that matter# =e used to go to the %laces marked on our railway tickets and Hsto%%ed offH only as the regulations allowed# -ow we go where fancy wills and sto% off where the "agaries of our automobile force us to# *nd we get more notions of Italy into our heads in si@ weeks than could otherwise be acFuired in si@ months# 9ne need not go so "ery far afield to get away from the con"entional in Italy# E"en that stri% of coastline running from Menton in !rance to +eggio in Calabria is re%lete with unknown or at least une@%loited little corners which ha"e a wealth of %icturesFue and romantic charm and as noble and im%ressi"e architectural monuments as one may find in the %eninsula# CCom X bellaC say the !rench honeymoon cou%les as they enter Italy "ia the Milan E@%ress o"er the 8im%lonP Ccom X bellaC say one and all who ha"e trod or ridden the highways and byways u% and down and across ItalyP Ccom X bellaC is the %Yan of e"ery one who has made the Italian round whether they ha"e been freFuenters of the great cities and towns or ha"e struck out across country for themsel"es and found some cree%er&clad ruin or a "illa in some ideally romantic situation which the makers of guide&books ne"er heard of or ha"e failed to mention# *ll this is %ossible to the tra"eller by road in Italy and oneBs only un%leasant memories are of the Cbuona manoC of the brigands of hotel ser"ants which infest the large cities and towns&&about the only brigands one meets in Italy to&day# The real Italy the old Italy still e@ists though half hidden by the wall of %rogress built u% by young liberty&lo"ing Italy since the days of GaribaldiP but one has to ste% aside and look for the old rUgime# It cannot always be disco"ered from the window of a railway carriage or a hotel omnibus though it is often brought into much %lainer "iew from the cushions of an automobile# HMotor Cars and the Genus 'ociH was a "ery good title indeed for an article which recently a%%eared in a Fuarterly re"iew# The writer ingeniously disco"ered&&as some of the rest of us ha"e also&&the real mission of the automobile# It takes us into the heart of the life of a country instead of forcing us to tra"el in a %rison "an on iron rails# 'et the tourist in Italy HdoH&&and HdoH as thoroughly as he likes&&the galleries of +ome !lorence 8iena and Jenice but let him not neglect the more a%%ealing and far more natural uncontaminated beauties of the countryside and the smaller towns such as Caserta *reAAo 'ucca Monte%ulciana Barberino in Mugello and *ncona and as many others as fit well into his itinerary from the *l%s to Ntna or from +eggio to +agusa# They lack much of the %o%ular renown that the great centres

%ossess but they still ha"e an as%ect of the reality of the life of mediY"alism which is difficult to trace when surrounded by all the u%&to&date and su%%osedly necessitous things which are burying +omeBs ruins dee%er than they ha"e e"er yet been buried# It is difficult indeed to imagine what old +ome was like with !rascati gi"en o"er to Hhunt %artiesH and the hotel drawing rooms re%lete with Hungarian orchestras# It is difficult indeedT Italy is a "ast kinetosco%e of heterogeneous sights and scenes and memories and traditions such as e@ist on no other %art of the earthBs surface# 9f this there is no doubt and yet each for himself may find something new whether it is a su%%osed Hsecret of the JaticanH or an unheard of or forgotten romance of an Italian "illa# This is the Cgenus lociC of Italy the charm of Italy the unresistible lodestone which draws tens of thousands and %erha%s hundreds of thousands thither each year from England and *merica# Italy is the most romantic touring ground in all the world and though its highways and byways are not the eFual in surface of the Hgood roadsH of !rance they are Cin good weatherC considerably better than the automobilist from o"erseas is used to at home# *t one %lace we found fifty kilometres of the worst road we had e"er seen in Italy immediately followed by a like stretch of the best# The writer does not %rofess to be able to e@%lain the anomaly# In general the roads in the mountains are better than those at low le"el so one should %lan his itineraries accordingly# The towns and cities of Italy are "ery well known to all well&read %ersons but of the countryside and its manners and customs this is not so true# Modern %ainters ha"e limned the outlines of 8an Marco at Jenice and the Castle of 8t# *ngelo at +ome on countless can"ases and %ictures of the HGrand CanalH and of HJesu"ius in Eru%tionH are familiar enoughP but %aintings of the little hill towns the wayside shrines the oli"e and orange gro"es and "ineyards or a sketch of some Fuaint roadside albergo made whilst the automobile was tem%orarily held u% by a tire blow out is Fuite as interesting and not so common# There is many a %ine&clad slo%e con"ent&crowned hill&to% and castled crag in Italy as interesting as the more famous historic sites# To a%%reciate Italy one must know it from all sides and in all its moods# The hurried itinerary which com%rises getting off the shi% at -a%les doing the satellite resorts and HsightsH which fringe -a%les Bay and so on to +ome !lorence and Jenice and thence across 8witAerland !rance and home is too freFuently a reality# The automobilist may ha"e a better time of it if he will but be rationalP but for the hurried flight abo"e outlined he should lea"e his automobile at home and make the tri% by Htrain de lu@e#H It would be less costly and he would see Fuite as much of Italy&&%erha%s more# The leisurely automobile tra"eller who rolls gently in and out of hitherto unheard of little towns and "illages is in another class and learns something of a belo"ed land and the life of the %eo%le that the hurried tourist will ne"er sus%ect# The genuine "agabond tra"eller e"en though he may be a lo"er of art and architecture and knows just how bad Cano"aBs lions really are is Fuite as much concerned with the Fuestion as to why Italians drink wine red instead of white or why the sunny 8icilian will do more Fuarrelling and less sho"elling of dirt on a railroad or a canal job than his northern brother# It is interesting too to learn something&&by stumbling u%on it as we did&&about Carrara marble 'eghorn hats and macaroni which used to form the bulk of the cargoes of shi%s sailing from Italian %orts to those of the ;nited 8tates# The Cano"as like the Botticellis are always there&&it is forbidden to e@%ort art treasures from Italy so one can always return to confirm his sus%icions&&but the marble has found its com%etitor elsewhere 'eghorn hats are now made in far larger Fuantities in Philadel%hia and the macaroni sent out from Brooklyn in a

month would kee% all Italy from star"ation for a year# The Italian %icture and its framing is like no other whether one commences with the snow&crested *l%s of Piedmont and finishes with Bella -a%oli and its daAAling blue or whether he finishes with the Queen of the *driatic and begins with Ca%ri# It is always Italy# The same is not true of !rance# Pro"ence might at times and in %arts be taken for 8%ain *lgeria or CorsicaP Brittany for Ireland and 'orraine for Germany# 9n the contrary Piedmont in Italy is nothing at all like neighbouring ,au%hinU or 8a"oie nor is 'iguria like -ice# *s for the disad"antages of Italian tra"el they do undoubtedly e@ist as well for the automobilist as for him who tra"els by rail# In the first %lace in s%ite of the %icturesFue charm of the Italian countryside the roads are as a whole not by any means the eFual of those of the rest of Euro%e&&always of course e@ce%ting 8%ain# They are far better indeed in *lgeria and Tunisia# Hotel e@%enses are double what they are in !rance for the same sort of accommodation&&for the automobilist at any rate# Garage accommodation is seldom if e"er to be found in the hotel at least not of a satisfactory kind and when found costs anywhere from two to three or e"en fi"e francs a night# Gasoline and oil are held at inflated figures though no one seems to know who gets all the %rofit that comes from the fourteen to eighteen francs which the Italian garage kee%er or grocer or druggist takes for the usual fi"e gallons# =ith this information as a forewarning the stranger automobilist in Italy will meet with no undue sur%rises e@ce%t that bad weather if he ha%%ens to strike a s%ell will considerably affect a journey that would otherwise ha"e %ro"ed enjoyable# The climate of Italy is far from being uniform# It is not all orange gro"es and %alm trees# Throughout Piedmont and 'ombardy snow and frost are the freFuent accom%animents of winter# 9n the other hand the summers are hot and %rolific in thunder storms# In Jenetia thanks to the influence of the *driatic the climate is more eFuable# In the centre Tuscany has a more nearly regular climate# !rom -a%les south one encounters almost a -orth *frican tem%erature and the south wind of the desert the CsiroccoC here blows as it does in *lgeria and Tunisia though tem%ered somewhat by ha"ing crossed the Mediterranean# There are a hundred and twenty&fi"e "arieties of mosFuitoes in Italy but with most of them their singing is worse than their stinging# The Pontine Marches ha"e long been the worst breeding %laces for mosFuitoes known to a suffering world# The mosFuitoes of this region were su%%osed to ha"e been transmitters of malaria so one day some Italian %hysicians caught a good round batch of them and sent them u% into a little "illage in the *%ennines whose inhabitants had ne"er known malaria# 8traightway the whole %o%ulation began to shake with the ague# That settled it the mosFuito was a breeder of disease# The to%ogra%hy of Italy is of an e@traordinary "ariety# The %lains and wastes of Calabria are the "ery antitheses of that semi&circular mountain ram%art of the *l%s which defines the northern frontier or of the great solid mass of the *%ennines in Central Italy# Italy by no means co"ers the "ast e@tent of territory that the stranger at first %resu%%oses# !rom the northern frontier of 'ombardy to the toe of the Calabrian boot is considerable of a stretch to be sure but for all that the actual area is Fuite restricted when com%ared with that of other great continental %owers# This is all the more reason for the automobilist to go comfortably along and not s%eed u% at e"ery town and "illage he comes to# The automobilist in Italy should make three "ows before crossing the

frontier# The first not to attem%t to see e"erythingP the second to re"iew some of the things he has already seen or heard ofP and the third to lea"e the beaten track at least once and launch out for himself and try to disco"er something that none of his friends ha"e e"er seen# The beaten track in Italy is not by any means an uninteresting itinerary and there is no really unbeaten track any more# =hat one can do and does if he is imbued with the %ro%er s%irit of tra"el is to co"er as much little&tra"elled ground as his instincts %rom%t him# Between !lorence and +ome and between +ome and -a%les there is Fuite as much to interest e"en the con"entional tra"eller as in those cities themsel"es if he only knows where to look for it and knows the %ur%ort of all the remarkable and freFuent historical monuments continually s%ringing into "iew# 9bscure "illages with good country inns where the arri"al of foreigners is an e"ent are Fuite as likely to offer %leasurable sensations as those to be had at the si@ eight or ten franc a day %ension of the cities# The landsca%e moti"es for the artist to be found in Italy are the most "aried of any country on earth# It is a wide range indeed from the "ineyard co"ered hillsides of JicenAa to the more grandiose country around Bologna to the dead&water lagoons before Jenice is reached to the rocky coasts of Calabria or to the chestnut gro"es of Ntna and the +oman Cam%agna# The tra"elling *merican or Englishman is himself res%onsible for many of the incon"eniences to which he is subjected in Italy# The Italian may know how to read his own class distinctions but all *mericans are alike to him# Englishmen as a rule know the language better and they get on better&&"ery little# The !renchman and the German ha"e "ery little trouble# They ha"e less false %ride than we# The *merican who comes to Italy in an automobile re%resents untold wealth to the sim%le ItalianP those who dri"e in two horse carriages and sto% at big hotels are classed in the same category# 9ne may scarcely buy anything in a decent sho% or enter an ambitious looking cafU but that the hangers&on outside mark him for a millionaire while if he is so foolish as to fling handfuls of CsoldiC to an indiscriminate crowd of ragamuffins from the balcony of his hotel he will be %estered half to death as long as he stays in the neighbourhood# *nd he deser"es what he getsT There is a way to counteract all this but each must learn it for himself# There is no set formula# Beggars are im%ortunate in certain %laces in Italy be&ridden of tourists but after all no more so than elsewhere and the tra"elling %ublic as much as anything else conduces to the continued e@istence of the %lague# If Italy had to choose between su%%ressing beggars or foregoing the %ri"ilege of ha"ing strangers from o"erseas coming to "iew her monuments she would "ery soon choose the former# If the beggars could not make a li"ing at their little game they too would sto% of their own accord# The Fuestion resol"es itself into a strictly %ersonal one# If it %leases you to throw %ennies from your balcony your carriage or your automobile to a gathered assembly of curious do soT It is the chief means of %ro"ing to many that they are su%erior to HforeignersTH The little&tra"elled %erson does this e"erywhere &&on the terrace of 8he%heardBs at Cairo on the boule"ard cafU terraces at *lgiers from the deck of his shi% at Port 8aid from the tables e"en of the CafU de la Pai@P&&so why should he not do it at -a%les at Jenice at +omeV !or no reason in the world e@ce%t that itBs a nuisance to other tra"ellers decidedly an objectionable %ractice to hotel restaurant and sho% kee%ers and a cause of great annoyance and trouble to %olice and ci"ic authorities# The following %ages ha"e been written and illustrated as a truthful record of what two indefatigable automobile tra"ellers ha"e seen and felt#

=e were dutifully ra"ished by the s%lendours of the Jenetian %alaces and duly im%ressed by the massi"eness of 8antB*ngeloP but we were more %leased by far in coming une@%ectedly u%on the Castle of !Unis in the Jalle dB*oste one of the finest of all feudal fortressesP or the Castle of +imini sitting grim and sad in the *driatic %lainP or the Jilla Cesarini outside of Perugia which no one has e"er reckoned as a wonder&work of architecture but which all the same shows all of the best of Italian "illa elements# 9ur taste has been catholic and the im%ressions set forth herein are our own# 9thers might ha"e %referred to admire some s%lendid church whilst we were s%eculating as to some great barbican gateway or watch tower# * saintly shrine might ha"e for some more a%%eal than a hillside fortified C+occaCP and again some con"ent nunnery might ha"e a fascination that a rare old +enaissance house now turned into a macaroni factory or a wine %ress might not#

CH*PTE+ II 9! IT*'I*- ME- *-, M*--E+8 Italian %olitics ha"e e"er been a game of intrigue and of the e@%loiting of %ersonal ambition# It was so in the days of the Po%esP it is so in these days of %remiers# The %ilots of the shi%s of state ha"e ne"er had a more %erilous %assage to na"igate than when manoeu"ring in the waters of Italian %olitics# There is great and jealous ri"alry between the cities of Italy# The +oman hates the Piedmontese and the -ea%olitan and the Bolognese and they all hate the +oman &&ca%ital though +ome is of Church and 8tate# 3Illustration) IT*'$ In The MJIII Century6 The E"olution of -ationality has e"er been an interesting subject to the stranger in a strange land# =hen the national s%irit at last arose Italy had reached modern times and become modern instead of mediY"al# -ational character is born of en"ironment but nationalism is born only of unassailable unity a thorough absorbing of a lo"e of country# The inhabitant of +ouen the ancient -orman ca%ital is first last and all the time a -orman but he is also !renchP and the dweller in +ome or Milan is as much an Italian as the -ea%olitan though one and all jealously %ut the Cam%agna Piedmont or the <ingdom of -a%les before the Italian boot as a geogra%hical di"ision# 8ometimes the same idea is carried into %olitics but not often# Political warfare in Italy is mostly confined to the unFuenchable %rejudices e@isting between the Quirinal and the Jatican a sort of Cinter urbanC warfare which has "ery little of the as%ect of an international Fuestion e@ce%t as some new&come di%lomat disturbs the e@isting order of things# The Italian has a fondness for the !renchman and the !rench nation# *t least the Italian %olitician has or %rofesses to ha"e when he says to his constituency) HI wish always for ha%%y %eaceful relations with !rance ### but I donBt forget Magenta and 8olferino#H The Italians of the north are the emigrating Italians and make one of the best classes of labourers when trans%lanted to a foreign soil# The steamshi% recruiting agents %lacard e"ery little background "illage of Tuscany and 'ombardy with the attractions of -ew $ork Chicago -ew 9rleans and Buenos *yres and a hundred or so ClireC %aid into the agentBs coffers does the rest#

Calabria and 8icily are less %roducti"e# The sunny 8icilian always wants to take his gaudily&%ainted farm cart with him and as there is no economic %lace for such a useless thing in *merica he contents himself with a twenty&hour sea "oyage to Tunisia where he can easily get back home again with his cart if he doesnBt like it# E"ery Italian %easant man woman and child knows *merica# $ou may not %ass the night at Barberino di Mugello may not sto% for a glass of wine at the C9steriaC on the !uta Pass or for a re%ast at some classically named CborgoC on the Joie Nmilia but that you will set u% longings in the heart of the nati"es who stand around in shoals and gaAe at your automobile# They all ha"e relati"es in *merica in -ew $ork -ew 9rleans or Cri%%le Creek or %erha%s BraAil or the *rgentine and since money comes regularly once or twice a year and since thousands of touring *mericans climb about the rocks at Ca%ri or dri"e fire&s%outing automobiles u% through the Casentino they know the new world as a land of dollars and dream of the day when they will be able to %ick them u% in the streets %a"ed with gold# That is a fairy&tale of *merica that still li"es in Italy# 3Illustration) Barberino di Mugello6 Besides emigrating to foreign lands the Italian %easant mo"es about his own country to an astonishing e@tent often working in the country in summer and in the towns the rest of the time as a labourer or artisan# The ty%ical Italian of the %oorer class is of course the %easant of the countryside for it is a notable fact that the labourer of the cities is as likely to be of one nationality as another# ,ifferent sections of Italy ha"e each their distinct classes of country folk# There are landowners tenants others who work their land on shares mere labourers and again sim%le farming folk who hire others to aid them in their work# The CbracciantiC or farm labourers are worthy fellows and seemingly as intelligent workers as their class elsewhere# In Calabria they are %robably less accom%lished than in the region of the great areas of worked land in central Italy and the "alley of the Po# The CmeAAadriaC system of working land on shares is found all o"er Italy# 9n a certain %rearranged basis of working the landlord and tenant di"ide the %roduce of the farm# There are accordingly no star"ing Italians a li"ing seemingly being assured the worker in the soil# In Ireland where it is rental %ure and sim%le and foreclosure and e"iction if the rent is not %rom%tly %aid the re"erse is the case# 'andlordism of e"en the %aternal kind&&if there is such a thing&&is bad but co&o%eration between landlord and tenant seems to work well in Italy# It %robably would elsewhere# The a"erage Italian small farm or C%odereC worked only by the family is a "ery unambitious affair but it %roduces a li"elihood# The house is nothing of the "ine&clad <ent or 8urrey order and the %rinci%al a%artment is the kitchen# 9ne or two bedrooms com%lete its a%%ointments with a stone terrace in front of the door as it sits cosily backed u% against some %leasant hillside# There are few gimcracks and dust&harbouring rubbish within and what sim%le furniture there is is clean&&abo"e all the bed&linen# The stable is a building a%art and there is usually some sort of an out&house de"oted to wine&%ressing and the like# * kitchen garden and an orchard are near by and farther afield the

larger area of workable land# * thousand or twel"e hundred lire a year of ready money %assing through the hands of the head of the family will kee% father mother and two children going besides which there is the Hli"ing H the major %art of the eatables and drinkables coming off the %ro%erty itself# The Italians are as cleanly in their mode of life as the %eo%le of any other nation in similar walks# 'et us not be %rejudiced against the Italian but make some allowance for surrounding conditions# In the twelfth century in Italy the grossness and uncleanliness were incredible and the manners laid down for beha"iour at table make us thankful that we ha"e forks %ocket&handkerchiefs soa% and other blessingsT But then where were we in the twelfth centuryT -o branch of Italian farming is carried on on a "ery magnificent scale# In *merica the har"ests are worked with mechanical rea%ersP in England it is done with sickle and flail or out of date %atterns of *merican machines but in Italy the %easant still works with the agricultural im%lements of Bible times and works as hard to raise and har"est one bushel of wheat as a <ansas farmer does to grow har"est and market si@# The *merican farmer has become a financierP the Italian is still in the bread&winning stage# !i"e hundred labourers in ,akota of all nationalities under the sun be it remarked on the ,alrym%le farm cut more wheat than any fi"e thousand %easants in Euro%e# The %easant of Euro%e is chiefly in the stage of begging the 'ord for his daily bread but as soon as he gets out west in *merica he buys store things automatic %ianos and automobile buggies# -o wonder he emigratesT The Italian %easant doesnBt li"e so badly as many think though true it is that meat is rare enough on his table# He eats something more than a greasy rag and an oli"e as the well&fed Briton would ha"e us belie"eP and something more than macaroni as the *merican fondly thinks# !or one thing he has his eternal CminestraC a good thick sou% of many things which *nglo&8a@ons would hardly know how to turn into as wholesome and nourishing a brothP meat of any kind always what the !rench call C%ate dBItalieC and herbs of the field# The macaroni the oli"es the cheese and the wine&&always the wine&&come after# -ot bad thatP considerably better than corned beef and %ie and far far better than boiled mutton and cauliflower as a steady dietT Britons and *mericans should wake u% and learn something about gastronomy# The general e@%enses of middle&class domestic town life in Italy are lower than in most other countries and the necessities for outlay are smaller# The Italian e"en comfortably off in the working class is less inclined to s%end money on lu@urious tri"ialities than most of us# He %refers to sa"e or in"est his sur%lus# 9ne takes central Italy as ty%ical because if it is not the most %ros%erous considered from an industrial %oint of "iew it is still the region endowed with the greatest natural wealth# By this is meant that the conditions of life are there the easiest and most comfortable# * middle class town family with an income of si@ or se"en thousand lire s%ends "ery little on rent to begin withP %retence based u%on the siAe of the front door knob cuts no figure in the Italian code of %ride# This family will li"e in a flat not in a C"illiniC as se%arate town houses are called# 9ne si@th of the family income will go for rent and though the a%artment may be bare and grim and lack actual lu@ury it will %ossess am%litude ten or twel"e rooms and be near the centre of the town# This a%%lies in the smaller cities of from twenty to fifty thousand inhabitants# =ith "ery little modification the same will a%%ly in +ome or -a%les and with %erha%s none at all at !lorence# The all im%ortant ser"ant Fuestion would seem to be more easily sol"ed in Italy than elsewhere but it is commonly the custom to treat Italian

ser"ants as one of the family&&so far as certain intimacies and affections go&&though %erha%s this of itself has some unantici%ated objections# The Italian ser"ants ha"e the re%utation of becoming like feudal retainersP that is they Hstay on the job H and from eight to twenty&fi"e lire a month %ays their wages# In reality they become almost %ersonal or body ser"ants for in few Italian cities and certainly not in Italian towns are they obliged to occu%y themsel"es with the slogging work of the 'ondon sla"ey or the -ew $ork chore&woman# *n Italian ser"ant be she young or old howe"er has a seeming disregard for a uniform or badge of ser"itude and is often rather slo%%y in a%%earance# 8he is for that all the more %icturesFue since if untidy she is not a%t to be loathsomely dirty in her a%%arel or her manner of working# 3Illustration) * Chianti 8eller6 The Italian of all ranks is content with two meals a day as indeed we all ought to be# The continental morning coffee and roll or more likely a sweet cake is uni"ersal here though sometimes the roll is omitted# 'unch is com%arati"ely a light meal and dinner at si@ or se"en is sim%ly an am%lified lunch# The chianti of Tuscany is the usual wine drunk at all meals or a substitute for it less good though all red wine in Italy seems to be good chea% and %ure# *dulteration is a%%arently too costly a %rocess# =ine and biscuits take the %lace of afternoon tea&&and with ad"antage# The wine commonly used Cen familleC is seldom bought at more than .#E1 lira the flagon of two and a half litres and can be had for half that %rice# 8ugar and salt are hea"ily ta@ed and though that may be a small matter with regard to salt it is something of an item with sugar# =ood is almost entirely the fuel for cooking and heating and the latter is "ery inefficient coming often from sim%le braAiers or CscaldiniC filled with embers and set about where they are su%%osed to do the most good# If one does not e@%ire from the cold before the last s%ark has de%arted from the already dying embers when they are brought in he orders another and kee%s it warm by en"elo%ing it as much as %ossible with his %erson# Italian heating arrangements are certainly more economical than those in Britain but are e"en less efficient as most of the caloric "alue of wood and coal goes u% the chimney with the smoke# The *merican system of steam heat&&on the HCchauffage centraleCH %lan&&will some day strike Euro%e and then the householder will buy his heat on the water gas and electric light %lan# Till then southern Euro%e will freeAe in winter# In +ome and !lorence it is a "ery difficult %roceeding to be able to control enough heat&&by any means whate"er&&to %ro%erly warm an a%artment in winter# If the a%artment has no chimney and many ha"enBt in the li"ing rooms one %erforce falls back again on the classic CscaldiniC %laced in the middle of the room and fired u% with charcoal# Then you huddle around it like Indians in a wigwam and if you donBt take a short route into eternity by as%hy@iation your e@tremities ultimately begin to warm u%P when they begin to get chilly again you recommence the firing u%# This is more than difficultP it is incon"enient and annoying# The manners and customs of the Italians of the great cities differ greatly from those of the towns and "illages and those of the +omans differ greatly from those of the inhabitants of Milan Turin or Genoa# The +oman for instance hates rain&&and he has his share of it too&&and accordingly is more often seen with an umbrella than without one# Brigands are su%%osedly the only Italians who donBt own an umbrella though why the distinction is so a%%arent a mere dweller beyond the frontier cannot answer#

In +ome in -a%les and in all the cities and large towns of Italy the %o%ulation rises early but they donBt get down to business as s%eedily as they might# The Italian has not howe"er a %rejudice against new ideas and the Italian cities and large towns are certainly "ery much u%&to&date# Italians are at heart democrats and rank and title ha"e little effect u%on them# The Italian go"ernment still gi"es scant consideration to sa"ings banks but legaliAes authoriAes and sometimes backs u% lotteries# *t all times it controls them# This is one of the inconsistencies of the tunes %layed by the %olitical machine in modern Italy# *nglo&8a@ons may bribe and graftP but they do not countenance lotteries which are the greatest thie"ing institutions e"er in"ented by the ingenuity of man in that they CdoC rob the C%oorC# It is the C%oorC almost entirely who su%%ort them# The rich ha"e bridge baccarat Monte Carlo and the 8tock E@change# It may be bad for the %ublic this legaliAed gambling but all gambling is bad and certainly state&controlled lotteries are no worse than licensed or unlicensed %ool&rooms and bucket sho%s winked&at dice&throwing in bar rooms or cra% games on e"ery corner# The Italian administration recei"ed the enormous total of /5 511 111 lire for lottery tickets in .I1K and of this sum 2E 111 111 lire were returned in %riAes and K E11 111 went for e@%enses# * fine net %rofit of 22 111 111 lire all of which sa"e what stuck to the fingers of the bureaucracy in %assing through went to reduce ta@ation which would otherwise be le"ied# The Italian %lays the lottery with the enthusiastic e@citement of a too shallow and too confident brain# Jarious combinations of figures seem %ossible of success to the Italian who at the weekend %uts some bauble in %awn with the ho%e that something will come his way# *fter the drawing before the 8unday dawns he is Fuite another %erson considerably less confident of anything to ha%%en in the future and as downcast as a sunny Italian can be# This %assion for drawing lots is something born in himP e"en if lotteries were not legaliAed he would still %lay ClottoC in secret in enthusiasm for games of chance he ri"als the 8%aniard# for

But Italy is not the country of illiterates that the stranger %resu%%oses# Cam%ania is the %ro"ince where one finds the largest number of lettered and Basilicate the least# Military ser"ice begins and is com%ulsory for all male Italians at the age of twenty# It lasts for nineteen years of which three only are in acti"e ser"ice# The ne@t fi"e or si@ in the reser"e the ne@t three or four in the Militia and the ne@t se"en in the HterritorialH Militia or landguard# Conscri%tion also a%%lies to the na"al ser"ice for the term of twel"e years# The military element which one meets all o"er Italy is astonishingly res%lendent in colours and %lentiful in numbers# *t most among hundreds %erha%s thousands of officers of all ranks there can hardly be more than a few score of %ri"ates# It is either this or the officers kee% continually on the mo"e in order to create an illusion of numbersT Class distinctions in all military grades and in all lands are "ery marked but in Italy the obeisance of a %ri"ate before the slightest loose end of gold braid is "ery marked# The Italian %ri"ate doesnBt seem

to mark distinctions among the official world beyond the sight of gold braid# * steamboat ca%tain or a hall %orter in some %alatial hotel would Fuite stun him# The Italian gendarmes are a %icturesFue and res%lendent detail of e"ery gathering of folk in city town or "illage# 9n a CfestaC they shine more grandly than at other times and the %ri"ilege of being arrested by such a gorgeous %oliceman must be accounted as something of a social distinction# The holding u% of an automobilist by one of these gentry is an affair which is regulated with as much %om% and circumstance as the crowning of a king# The writer knowsTT :ust how far the ItalianBs criminal instincts are more de"elo%ed than those of other races and climes has no %lace here but is it not fair to su%%ose that the half a million of Italians&&mostly of the lower classes&&who form a %art of the %o%ulation of cosmo%olitan -ew $ork are of a baser instinct than any half million li"ing together on the %eninsulaV Probably they areP the Italian on his nati"e shore does not strike us as a "ery "illainous indi"idual# But he is usually a li"ely %ersonP there is nothing calm and sedentary about himP though he has neither the grace of the Gascon the joy of the <elt or the %retence of the Pro"enWal he does not seem wicked or criminal and those who habitually carry dirks and daggers and %lay in Black Hand dramas li"e for the most %art across the seas# The Italian secret societies are su%%osed hot beds of crime and many of them certainly e@ist though they do not %ractise their rites in the full limelight of %ublicity as they do in *merica# The -ea%olitan Camarra is the best organiAed of all the Italian secret societies# It is di"ided military&like into com%anies and is recruited also in military fashion to make u% for those who ha"e died or been Hre%laced#H The origin of secret societies will %robably ne"er be known# Italy was badly %re%ared to gather the fruits to be deri"ed from the !rench +e"olution and it is %ossible that then the acti"ity of the Carbonari ItalyBs most %o%ular secret society began# The Mafia is more ancient and has a direct ancestry for nearly a thousand years# * hundred and twenty&fi"e years ago the seed of secret dissatisfaction had already been s%read for years through Italy# The names of the societies were many# 8ome of them were called the Protectori +e%ublicani the *delfi the 8%illa -era the !orteAAa the 8%eranAa the !ratelli and a doAen other names# 9n the surface the code of the Carbonari reads fairly enough but there is nothing to show that any attem%t was made to stam% out %erha%s the most generally honoured of the traditions of -a%les&&that of homicide# The long %olitical blight of the centuries the curse of feudalism the rottenness of ignorance and su%erstition had eaten out nearly e"ery "estige of %olitical and self&res%ecting s%irit# *fter the restoration of the Bourbons the influences of the secret societies in 8outhern Italy were manifested by the large increase of murders#

CH*PTE+ III CHI*-TI *-, M*C*+9-I C* Cha%ter for Tra"ellers by +oad or +ailC

The hotels of Italy are dear or not according to whether one %atroniAes a certain class of establishment# *t Trou"ille at *i@&les&Bains in !rance at Cernobbio in the Italian 'ake region or on the Quai Partheno%e at -a%les there is little difference in %rice or Fuality and the cuisine is always !rench# The automobilist who demands garage accommodation as well will not always find it in the big city hotel in Italy# He may %atroniAe the !# I# *# T# Garages in +ome -a%les Genoa Milan !lorence Jenice Turin and Padua and find the best of accommodation and fair %rices# !or a demonstration of this he may com%are what he gets and what he %ays for it at Pisa&&where a !# I# *# T# garage is wanting&&and note the difference# The real Italian hotel outside the great centres has less of a clientXle of snobs and Cmalades imaginairesC than one finds in !rance&&in the Pyrenees or on the +i"iera or in 8witAerland among the *l%s and accordingly there is always accommodation to be found that is in a class between the res%lendent gold&lace and sil"er&gilt establishments of the resorts and working&menBs lodging houses# True there is the same class of establishment e@isting in the smaller cities in !rance but the small towns of !rance are not yet as much Htra"elledH by strangers as are those of Italy and hence the difference to be remarked# The real Italian hotels not the tourist establishments will cater for one at about one half the %rice demanded by e"en the second order of tourist hotels and the Italian landlord shows no disres%ect towards a client who would know his %rice beforehand&&and he will usually make it fa"ourable at the first demand for fear you will Hsho% aroundH and finally go elsewhere# 3Illustration) * =ayside Trattoria6 The automobile here as e"erywhere tends to ele"ate %rices but much de%ends on the indi"idual attitude of the tra"eller# * con"incing air of inde%endence and knowledge on the %art of the automobilist Cas he arri"esC will s%eedily %ut him en ra%%ort with the Italian landlord# 'ook as wise as %ossible and always ask the %rice beforehand&&e"en while your motor is still chugging away# That ne"er fails to bring things to a just and %ro%er relation# It is at !lorence and in the en"irons of -a%les of all the great tourist centres that one finds the best fare at the most fa"ourable %rices but certainly at +ome and Jenice in the great hotels it is far less attracti"e and a great deal dearer delightful though it may be to sojourn in a %alace of other days# The Italian wayside inns or CtrattoriaC are not all badP neither are they all good# The a"erage is better than it has usually been gi"en the credit of being and the automobile is doing much here as in !rance towards a general im%ro"ement# * doAen automobiles with a score or more of %eo%le aboard may come and go in a day to a little inn in some %icturesFue framing on a main road say that between 8iena and +ome "ia 9r"ieto or to !inale Marina or JaraAAe in 'iguria to one carriage and %air with two %ersons and a dri"er# *ccordingly this means increased %ros%erity for the inn&holder and he would be a dull wit indeed if he didnBt see it# He does see it in !rance with a "ery clear "isionP in Italy with a %oint of "iew "ery little dimmedP in 8witAerland when the go"ernmental authorities will let himP and in England when the country boniface comes anywhere near to being the intelligent %erson that his continental com%eer finds himself# This is truth %lain un"arnished

truth just as the writer has found it# 9thers may ha"e their own ideas about the subject but this is the record of one manBs e@%eriences and %resumably of some others# The chief disad"antages of the hotel of the small Italian town are its often crowded and incom%lete accessories and its %ro@imity to a stable of braying donkeys bellowing cows or an industrious blacksmith who begins before sun&u% to %ound out the same metallic ring that his confrXres do all o"er the world# There is nothing es%ecially Italian about a blacksmithBs sho% in Italy# *ll blacksmith interiors are the same whether %ainted by H9ld Crome H Eastman :ohnson or :ean !ranWois Millet# The idiosyncrasies of the inns of the small Italian towns do not necessarily %reclude their offering good wholesome fare to the tra"eller and this in s%ite of the fact that not e"ery one likes his salad with garlic in liberal doses or his macaroni smothered in oil# Each howe"er is better than steak smothered in onions or %otatoes fried in lardP any HhygienistH will tell you that# The trouble with most foreigners in Italy when they begin to talk about the rancid oil and other strange tasting nati"e %roducts is that they ha"e not %re"iously known the real thing# 9li"e oil real oli"e oil tastes like&&well like oli"e oil# The other kinds those we are mostly used to elsewhere taste like cotton seed or %eanut oil which is %robably what they are# 9ne need not blame the Italian for this though when he himself eats of it or gi"es it you to eat it is the genuine article# $ou may eat it or not according as you may like it or not but the Italian isnBt trying to %oison you or work off anything on your stomach half so bad as the rancid bacon one sometimes gets in Germany or the ki%%ers of two seasons ago that a%%ear all o"er England in the small towns# *s before intimated the chief trouble with the small hotels in Italy is their deficiencies but the Touring Club Italiano in Italy like the Touring Club de !rance in !rance is doing heroic work in educating the country inn&kee%er# =hy should not some similar institution do the same thing in England and *mericaV How many *merican country hotels in towns of three or fi"e thousand %eo%le in say Georgia or Missouri would get u% for the chance tra"eller who dro%%ed in on them une@%ectedly a satisfactory mealV -ot many the writer fancies# There is all o"er Euro%e a desire on the %art of the small or large hotel kee%er to furnish meals out of hours and often at no increase in %rice# The automobilist a%%reciates this and has come to learn in Italy that the old Italian %ro"erb HCchi tardi arri"a mal alloggiaCH is entirely a myth of the guide books of a cou%le of generations ago# * cold bird a dish of macaroni a salad and a flask of wine will try no inn&kee%erBs ca%abilities e"en with no notice beforehand# The Italian would seemingly %refer to ser"e meals in this fashion than at the Cta"ola rotondaC which is the ItalianBs way of referring to a Ctable dBhZteC# If you ha"e doubts as to your Italian Boniface treating you right as to %rice >after you ha"e eaten of his fare? arrange things beforehand a C%reAAo fissoC and you will be safe# *s for wine the chea%est is often as good as the best in the small towns and is commonly included in the C%reAAo fissoC or should be# ItBs for you to see that you get it on that basis of reckoning# The C%adronaC of an Italian country inn is "ery democraticP he belie"es in eFuality and fraternity and whether you come in a si@ty&horse MercUdXs or on donkey&back he sits you down in a room with a mi@ed crew of his countrymen and %ays no more attention to you than if you were one of them# That is he doesnBt e@%loit you as does the 8wiss he doesnBt

o"ercharge you and he doesnBt try to tem%t your %alate with %oor imitation of the bacon and eggs of old England or the tenderloins of *merica# He gi"es you sim%ly the fare of the country and lets it go at that# 9f Italian inns it may be truly said the day has %assed when the tra"eller wished he was a horse in order that he might eat their foodP oats being good e"erywhere# The fare of the great Italian cities at least that of the hotels freFuented by tourists has "ery little that is CnationalC about it# To find these one has to go elsewhere to the small Italian hotels in the large towns along with the %riests and the soldiers or kee% to the byways# The C%olentaC or corn&meal bread and the Ccom%anaticoC sardines ancho"ies or herrings which are worked o"er into a %aste and s%read on it butter&wise is e"erywhere found and it is good# -o CosteriaC or CtrattoriaC by the roadside but will gi"e you this on short order if you do not seek anything more substantial# The CminestraC or cabbage sou%&&it may not be cabbage at all but it looks it&&a sort of HComnium gatherumCH sou%&&is warming and filling# CPolentaC Ccom%anaticoC CminestraC and a salad with CfromaggioC to wind u% with and red wine to drink ought not to cost more than a lira or a lira and a half at the most where"er found# $ou wonBt want to continue the same fare for dinner the same day %erha%s but it works well for luncheon# Pay no charges for attendance# -o one does anyway but tourists of con"ention# 'et the Cbuono manoC to the waiter who ser"es you be the sole largess that you distribute sa"e to the man&of&all&work who brings you water for the thirsty maw of your automobile or to the amiable sunshiny indi"idual who lugs your baggage u% and down to and from your room# This is Fuite enough hea"en knows according to our democratic ideas# *t any rate %ay only those who ser"e you in Italy as elsewhere and donBt merely ti% to im%ress the waiter with your im%ortance# He wonBt see it that way# The Italian CalbergoC or hotel of the small town is a%t to be %oorly and meanly furnished e"en in what may be called H%ublic rooms H though indeed there are freFuently no %ublic rooms in many more or less %retentious Italian inns# If there e"er is a salon or rece%tion room it is furnished scantily with a rough uncomfortable sofa co"ered with a gunny sack a small sFuare of fibre car%eting >if indeed it has any co"ering whate"er to its chilly tile or stone floor? and a few rush co"ered chairs# ;sually there is no chimney but there is always a stuffy lambreFuined curtain at each window almost obliterating any rays of light which may filter feebly through# In general the a"erage rece%tion room of any Italian albergo >e@ce%t those great joint&stock affairs of the large cities which ado%t the word hotel? is an uncomfortable and unwholesome a%artment# 9ne regrets to say this but it is so# Beds in Italian hotels are often HFueer H but they are sur%risingly and comfortably clean considering their antiFuity# E"ery one who has obser"ed the Italian in his home in Italy or in some stranger land e"en in a crowded -ew $ork tenement knows that the Italian sets great store by his slee%ing arrangements and their %ro%er care# It is an e"er&to&be&%raised and emulated fact that the common %eo%le of continental Euro%e are more freFuently Hlu@uriousH with regard to their beds and bed linen than is commonly su%%osed# They may eat off of an oilcloth >which by some "ague conjecture they call H*merican clothH? co"ered table may di% their fingers dee% in the C%olentaC and throw bones on the tile or brick floor to the dogs and cats edging about their feet but the Cdra%sC of their beds are real rough old linen not the

ninety&nine&cent&store kind of the com%lete house&furnishing establishments# The tiled floor of the a"erage Italian house and of the kitchens and dining room of many an Italian inn is the e"er at hand rece%tacle of much refuse food that elsewhere is relegated to the garbage barrel# Between meals and bright and early in the morning e"erything is flushed out with as generous a su%%ly of water as is used by the ,utch Chous"rouC in washing down the front ste%s# +esult) the microbes donBt rest behind as they do on our own car%eted dining rooms a des%icable custom which is HgrowingH with the hotel kee%ers of England and *merica# *nother idol shatteredT =hat you donBt find in the small Italian hotels are baths nor in many large ones either# =hen you do find a CbaignoirC in Euro%e >e@ce%t those of the "ery latest fashion? it is a %oor shallow affair with a %lug that %ulls u% to let the water out but with no means of getting it in e@ce%t to %our it in from buckets# This is a fault sure enough and itBs not the *mericanBs idea of a bath tub at all though it seems to suit well enough the Englishman en tour# !rance is undoubtedly the land of good cooks C%ar e@cellenceC but the Italian of all ranks is more of a gourmet than he is usually accounted# There may be some of his tribe that li"e on bread and cheese but if he isnBt outrageously %oor he usually eats well de"otes much time to the %re%aring and cooking of his meals and considerably more to the eating of them# The ItalianBs cooking utensils are many and "aried and abo"e all %icturesFue and his table ware in"ariably well conditioned and cleanly# 'et this o%inion >one manBs only again let it be remembered? be recorded as a %rotest against the uni"ersally condemned CdirtyC Italian who Csu%%osedlyC eats cats and dogs as the Chinaman Csu%%osedlyC eats rats and mice# =e are not abo"e re%roach oursel"esP we eat mushrooms frog legs and some other things besides which are certainly not cleanly or healthful# More than one Italian inn owes its %resent day %ros%erity to the tra"el by road which freFuently sto%s before its doors# Twenty&fi"e years ago indeed much less the C"etturinoC de%osited his load of sentimental tra"ellers accom%anied %erha%s by a courier at many a miserable wayside CosteriaC which fell far short of what it should be# To&day this has all changed for the better# Tourists of all nationalities and all ranks make Italy their %layground to&day as indeed they ha"e for generations# There is no diminution in their numbers# English minor dignitaries of the church jostle Pa and Ma and the girls from the !ar =est and Germans fiercely and wondrously clad %eer around corners and across lagoons with field glasses of a siAe and %ower suited to a Polar E@%edition# E"erybody is HdoingH e"erything as though their "ery li"es de%ended u%on their absorbing as much as %ossible of local colour and that as s%eedily as %ossible# It will all be down in the bill and they mean to ha"e what they are %aying for# This is one %hase of Italian tra"el that is unlo"ely but it is the %hase that one sees in the great tourist hotels and in the chief tourist cities not elsewhere# To best know Italian fare as also Italian manners and customs one must a"oid the restaurants and trattoria asterisked by Baedeker and search others out for himselfP they will most likely be as good much chea%er more characteristic of the country and one will not be eternally %estered to eat beefsteak ham and saurkraut or to drink C%alealeC or whiskey# Instead he will get macaroni in all sha%es and siAes and tomato sauce and cheese o"er e"erything to say nothing of rice artichokes and onions now and again and oil of the oli"e brand in nearly e"ery C%latC# If you donBt like these things of course there is

no need going where they are# 8tick to the beefsteak and C%alealeC thenT +omantic sentimental Italy is disa%%earing the Italians are becoming %ractical and matter of factP it is only those with memories of Browning Byron 8helley 'eo%old +obert and Boeklin that would ha"e Italy sentimental anyway# Ma@imilien Mission a Protestant refugee from !rance in .KLL had something to say of the inns at Jenice which is interesting reading to&day# He says)&&HThere are some good inns at JeniceP the B'ou"re B the B=hite 'yon B the B*rms of !rancePB the first entertains you for eight li"res >lire? %er day the other two somewhat chea%er but you must always remember to bargain for e"erything that you ha"e# * gondola costs something less than a li"re >lire? an hour or for a su%erior looking craft se"en or eight li"res a day#H This is about the %rice of the Jenetian water craft when hired to&day two centuries and more after# The hotel %rices too are about what one %ays to&day in the smaller inns of the cities and in those of the towns# *ll o"er Italy e"en on the shores of the Bay of -a%les crowded as they are with tourists of all nationalities and all ranks one finds isolated little Italian inns backed u% against a hillside or crowning some rocky %romontory where one may li"e in %eace and %lenitude for si@ or se"en francs a day# *nd one is not condemned to eating only the national macaroni either# !rankly the -ea%olitan restaurateur often scru%les as much to %ut macaroni before his stranger guests as does the Ba"arian inn&kee%er to offer sausage at each re%ast# 8ome of us regret that this is so but since macaroni in some form or other can always be had in Italy and sausages in Germany for the asking no great incon"enience is caused# Macaroni is the national dish of Italy and "ery by no means does one ha"e to li"e off it as many -otwithstanding macaroni goes with Italy as do There are more sha%es and siAes of macaroni than -a%les# good it is too though su%%ose# crackers with cheese# there are beggars in

The long hollow %i%e stem known as -ea%olitan and the "ermicelli which isnBt hollow but is as long as a shoe string are the leading "arieties# Tiny grains stars letters of the al%habet and e@traordinary animals that ne"er came out of any ark are also fashioned out of the same C%astaC or again you get it in sheets as big as a good siAed handkerchief or in %i%ing of a diameter of an inch or more# The +omans kneaded their flour by means of a stone cylinder called a CmaccaroC# The name macaroni is su%%osed to ha"e been deri"ed from this origin# -a%les is the centre of the macaroni industry but it is made all o"er the world# That made in Brooklyn would be as good as that made in -a%les if it was made of +ussian wheat instead of that from ,akota# *s it is now made it is decidedly inferior to the Italian "ariety# By contrast that made in Tunis is as good as the -a%les "ariety# +ussian wheat againT * macaroni factory looks from the outside like a %lace de"oted to making ro%e# Inside it feels like an inferno# It doesnBt %ay to get too well acFuainted with the %rocess of making macaroni# The flour %aste is run out of little tubes or rolled out by big rollers or cut out by little dies thus taking its desired forms# The long stringy macaroni is taken outside and hung u% to dry like clothes on a line e@ce%t that it is hung on %oles# The workmen are lightly and innocently clad and the worksho%s themsel"es are ke%t at as high a tem%erature as the stoke&room of a liner# =hether this is really

necessary or not the writer does not know but he feels sure that some genius will some day e"ol"e a %rocess which will do away with hand labour in the making of macaroni# It will be mi@ed by machinery baked by electricity and loaded u% on cars and steamshi%s by the same %ower# The street macaroni merchants of -a%les sell the long ro%y kind to all comers and at a "ery small %rice one can get a HfillingH meal# $ou get it ser"ed on a dish but without kni"es forks or cho% sticks# $ou eat it with your fingers and your mouth# The meat is tough in Italy often enough# There is no doubt about that# But it is usually a great deal better than it is gi"en credit for being# The day is %ast if it e"er e@isted when the *nglo&8a@on tra"eller was forced to Fuit Italy Hbecause he could not li"e without good meat#H This was the classic com%laint of the innocents abroad of other days whether they hailed from <ensington or <alamaAoo# They should ne"er ha"e left those su%erlati"ely e@cellent %laces# The food and MaAAini were the sole to%ics of tra"el talk once but to&day it is more a Fuestion of whether one can get his railway connection at some hitherto unheard of little junction or whether the road "ia this ri"er "alley or that mountain %ass is as good as the main road# These are the things that really matter to the tra"eller not whether he has got to slee% in a four %oster in a bedroom with a tile or marble floor or eat macaroni and ra"ioli when he might ha"e&&if he were at home&&his belo"ed HhamH and blood&red beefsteaks# The Italian waiter is usually a sunny confiding %erson something after the style of the negro and like his dark&skinned brother often incom%etent beyond a certain %oint# $ou like him for what he is though almost as good a thing in his line as the !rench garWon in that he is obliging and a great deal better than the mutton&cho%%ed bewhiskered nonentity who shuffles about behind your chair in England with his e@%ectant %alm fore"er outstretched# The Italian CcameriXreC or waiter takes a %ride in his %rofession&&as far as he knows it and Fuite loses sight of its commercial %ossibilities in the technicalities of his craft and his seeming desire only to %lease# C8ubito momentoC is his e"er ready %hrase though often it seems as though he might ha"e re%lied Cne"erC# 8eated in some roadside or seashore CtrattoriaC one %ounds on the bare table for the CcameriXreC orders another HTorino H %ays his reckoning and is off again# -othing e@traordinarily amusing has ha%%ened the while but the mere lolling about on a terrace of a cafU o"erlooking the la%%ing Mediterranean wa"es at oneBs feet is one of the things that one comes to Italy for and one is content for the nonce ne"er to recur to %alaAAos "illas cathedrals or %icture galleries# There ha"e been too many tra"ellers in %ast times&&and they e@ist to&day&&who do not seek to fill the ga%s between a round of churches and art galleries sa"e to rush back to some %alace hotel and eat the same kind of a dinner that they would in 'ondon Paris or -ew $ork&&a little worse cooked and ser"ed to be sure# ItBs the country and its %eo%le that im%ress one most in a land not his own# =hy do so many omit these HattractionsVH The Cbuona manoC is e"erywhere in e"idence in Italy but the Italian himself seems to understand how to handle the Fuestion better than strangers# The Italian guest at a hotel is fairly la"ish with the Fuantity of his ti%s but each is minute and for a small ser"ice he %ays a small fee# =e who like to im%ress the waiter&&for we all do though we fancy we donBt&&will often %ay as much to a waiter for bringing us a drink as the %rice of the drink# -ot so the ItalianP and thatBs the difference# Ten %er cent on the bill at a hotel is always a la"ish fee and fi"e

would be am%le though now and again the head waiter may look askance at his share# !ollow the ItalianBs own system then gi"e e"erybody who ser"es you something howe"er little and gi"e to those only and then their little jealousies between each other will take the odium off you&&if you really care what a waiter thinks about you anyway which of course you shouldnBt# These little disbursements are e"erywhere %resent in Italy# 9ne %ays a franc to enter a museum a %icture gallery or a great library and one ti%s his cabman as he does elsewhere and a doAen francs s%ent in riding about on Jenetian gondolas for a day incurs the im%lied liability for another two francs as well#

CH*PTE+ IJ IT*'I*- +9*,8 *-, +9;TE8 The cordiality of the Italian for the stranger within his gates is undeniable but the automobilist would a%%reciate this more if the 'atin would kee% his great highways >a tradition left by the +omans of old the finest road&builders the world has e"er known? in better condition# Italy ne@t to !rance is an ideal touring ground for the automobilist# The Italian %o%ulation e"erywhere seems to understand the tourist and his general wants and abo"e all his moti"e for coming thither and whether one journeys by the railway by automobile or by the more humble bicycle he finds a genial rece%tion e"erywhere though cou%led with it is always an abounding curiosity which is at times annoying# The nati"e is lenient with you and %ainstaking to the e@treme if you do not s%eak his language and will struggle with lean scra%s of English !rench and German in his effort to understand your wants# *dmirably sur"eyed and usually "ery well graded some of the most im%ortant of the north and south thoroughfares in Italy ha"e been lately so sadly neglected that the briefest s%ell of bad weather makes them all but im%assable# There is one stretch between Bologna and Imola of thirty&two kilometres straightaway and %erfectly flat# It is a good road or a bad road according as one sees it after si@ weeks of good weather or after a ten daysB rainy s%ell# It is at once the best and worst of its kind but it is badly ke%t u% and for that reason may be taken as a re%resentati"e Italian road# The mountain roads u% back of the lake region and o"er the *l%ine %asses in time of snow and ice and rain&&if they are not actually buried under&&are thoroughly good roads# They are built on different lines# +oad&building is a national affair in Italy as it is in !rance but the central %ower does not ramify its forces in all directions as it does across the border# There is only one kind of road&building worth taking into consideration and that is national road&building# It is not enough that Massachusetts should build good roads and ha"e them degenerate into mere wagon tracks when they get to the 8tate border or that the good roads of Middlese@ should become mere sloughs as soon as they come within the domain of the 'ondon County Council# Italy is slack and incom%etent with regard to her road&building but England and *merica are considerably worse at the %resent writing# Entering Italy by the +i"iera gateway one lea"es the good roads of !rance behind him at Menton and between Grimaldi where he %asses the Italian dogana and its formalities and Jentimiglia or at least 8an

+emo twenty&fi"e kilometres away %unctures his tires one three or fi"e times o"er a kilometre stretch of unrolled stone bristling with flints whereas in !rance a side %ath would ha"e been left on which the automobilist might %ass comfortably# It isnBt the ItalianBs inability to handle the good roads Fuestion as successfully as the !renchP it is his woefully incom%etent careless unthinking way of doing things# This is not saying that good roads do not e@ist in Italy# !ar from it# But the good road in Italy suddenly descends into a bad road for a doAen kilometres and as abru%tly becomes a good road again and this without a%%arent reason# 'ack of unity of %ur%ose on the %art of indi"idual road&building bodies is what does it# +oad&building throughout Italy ne"er rose to the height that it did in !rance# The +omans were great e@%loiters beyond the frontiers and often left things at home to shuffle along as best they might whilst their greatest energies were s%ent abroad# 9ne well defined +oman road of antiFuity >aside from the tracings of the great trunk lines like the *%%ian or Nmilian =ays? is well known to all automobilists entering -a%les "ia Posili%%o# It runs through a tunnel alongside a hooting %uffing tram and loose&wheeled iron&tired carts all in a deafening u%roar# This mar"ellous tunnelled road by the sea with glim%ses of daylight now and then but mostly as dark as the ca"ern through which flowed the 8ty@ is the legitimate successor of an engineering work of the time of *ugustus# In -eroBs reign 8eneca the historian wrote of it as a narrow gloomy %ass and mediY"al su%erstition claimed it as the work of necromancy since the hand of man ne"er could ha"e achie"ed it# The foundation of the roadway is well authenticated by history howe"er# In .550 *l%honso I the 8%aniard widened and heightened the gallery and ,on Pedro of Toledo a century later %a"ed it with good solid blocks of granite which were renewed again by Charles III in ./E5# Here is a good road that has endured for centuries# =e should do as well to&day# There are of course countless other short lengths of highway coming down from historic times left in Italy but the +oman C"iaeC with which we ha"e become familiar in the classical geogra%hies and histories of our schooldays are now re%laced by modern thoroughfares which howe"er in many cases follow or freFuently cut in on the old itineraries# 9f these old +oman =ays that most readily traced and of the greatest %ossible interest to the automobilist who would do something a little different from what his fellows ha"e done is the Jia Nmilia# =ith Bologna as its central station the ancient Jia Nmilia begun by the Consul Marcus Nmilius 'e%idus continues towards Cisal%ine Gaul the Jia !lamina leading out from +ome# It is a delightfully "aried itinerary that one co"ers in following u% this old +oman road from Placentia >PiacenAa? to *riminum >+imini? and should indeed be followed leisurely from end to end if one would e@%erience something of the s%irit of olden times which one can hardly do if tra"elling by schedule and sto%%ing only at the %laces lettered large on the ma%s# The following are the ancient and modern %lace&names on this itinerary) Placentia >PiacenAa? !lorentia >!irenAuola? !identia >Borgo 8# ,onnino? Parma >Parma? Tannetum >Taneto? +egium 'e%idi >+eggio? Mutina >Modena? !orum Gallorum >near Castel !ranco?

Bononia >Bologna? Claterna >Quaderna? !orum Cornelii >Imola? !a"entia >!aenAa? !orum 'i"ii >!orli? !orum Po%ulii >!orlim%o%oli? Caesena >Cesena? *d Confluentes >near 8a"ignamo? *riminum >+imini? Connecting with the Jia Nmilia another im%ortant +oman road ran from the "alley of the Casentino across the *%ennines to PiacenAa# It was the route traced by a %art of the itinerary of ,ante in the H,i"ina Commedia H and as such it is a historic highway with which the least sentimentally inclined might be glad to make acFuaintance# *nother itinerary %erha%s better known to the automobilist is that which follows the 'igurian coast from -ice to 8%eAia continuing thence to +ome by the Jia *urelia# This coast road of 'iguria %assed through -ice to 'una on the Gulf of 8%eAia the towns en route being as follows)&& Jarium fl# -icY Cemenelium Portus Herculis Monoeci *lbium Intermelium *lbium Ingaunum Jada 8abbata Genua Portus ,el%hini Tigullia 8egesta Portus Jeneris Portus Erici The Jar >ri"er? -ice CimieA back of -ice Monaco Jentimiglia *lbenga Jado near 8a"ona Genoa Portofino Tregesco near 8estri 8estri Porto Jenere 'erici

The chief of these great +oman roadways of old whose itineraries can be traced to&day are) Jia Jia Jia Jia Jia Jia Jia Jia Jia Jia Jia Jia Jia Jia Nmilia Nmilia&8cauri *meria *%%ia *Fuilla *rdentina *urelia Cassia !laminia 'atina 'aurentia 9stiensis 8alaria Jaleria The most celebrated of -# Italy Built long after the original Jia Nmelia !rom +ome to *melia 9f which the main trunk line ran from +ome to Ca%ua !rom +ome to Pisa The Great -orth +oad of the +omans 9ne of the most ancient of +oman roads !rom +ome to 9stia 'eading from +ome through the "alley of the Tiber !rom the Tiber to the *driatic at *ncona

These ancient +oman roads were at their best in Cam%ania and Etruria# Cam%ania was tra"ersed by the *%%ian =ay the greatest highway of the +omans though indeed its original construction by *%%ius Claudius only e@tended to Ca%ua# The great highroads %roceeding from +ome crossed Etruria almost to the full e@tentP the Jia *urelia from +ome to Pisa and 'unaP the Jia Cassia and the Jia Clodia# The great +oman roads were marked with di"ision stones or bornes e"ery thousand %aces %ractically a kilometre and a half a little more than our own mile# These mile&stones of +oman times many of which are still

abo"e ground >Cmilliarii la%idesC? were sometimes round and sometimes sFuare and were entirely bare of ca%itals being mere stone %osts usually standing on a sFuared base of a somewhat larger area# * gra"en inscri%tion bore in 'atin the name of the Consul or Em%eror under whom each stone was set u% and a numerical indication as well# Caius Gracchus away back in the second century before Christ was the in"entor of these aids to tra"el# The automobilist a%%reciates the de"elo%ment of this accessory ne@t to good roads themsel"es and if he sto%s to think a minute he will see that the old +omans were the in"entors of many things which he fondly thinks are modern# The automobilist in Italy has it will be inferred cause to regret the absence of the fine roads of !rance once and again and he will regret it whene"er he wallows into a si@ inch dee% rut and finds himself not able to %ull u% or out whilst the dri"ers of ten yoke o@&teams drawing a block of Carrara marble as big as a house call down the im%recations of all the saints in the calendar on his head# ItBs not the automobilistBs fault such an occurrence nor the o@&dri"erBs eitherP but for fifty kilometres after lea"ing 8%eAia and until 'ucca and 'i"orno are reached this is what may ha%%en e"ery half hour and you ha"e no recourse e@ce%t to acce%t the situation with fortitude and re"ile the administration for allowing a roadway to wear down to such a state or for not %ro"iding a %arallel thoroughfare so as to di"ide the different classes of traffic# There is no such disgracefully used and ke%t highway in Euro%e as this stretch between 8%eAia and 'ucca and one must of necessity %ass o"er it going from Genoa to Pisa unless he strikes inland through the mountainous country just beyond 8%eAia by the 8trada di +eggio for a dUtour of a hundred kilometres or more coming back to the sea le"el road at 'ucca# Throughout the %eninsula the inland roads are better as to surface than those by the coast though by no means are they more attracti"e to the tourist by road# This is best e@em%lified by a com%arison of the inland and shore roads each of them more or less direct between !lorence and +ome# The great 8trada di grande CommunicaAione from !lorence to +ome >something less than three hundred kilometres all told a mere mouthful for a modern automobile? runs straight through the heart of old 8iena entering the city by the Porta Camollia and lea"ing by the Porta +omana two kilometres of treacherous narrow thoroughfare though readily enough traced because it is in a bee&line# The details are here gi"en as being ty%ical of what the automobilist may e@%ect to find in the smaller Italian cities# There are in Italy none of those une@%ected right&angle turns that one comes u%on so often in !rench towns at least not so many of them and there are no cork&screw thoroughfares though many ha"e the Hrainbow cur"e H to borrow Mark TwainBs e@%ression# 9n through Chiusi 9r"ieto and Jiterbo runs the highroad direct to the gates of +ome for the most %art a fair road but rising and falling from one le"el to another in trying fashion to one who would set a steady %ace# It is with res%ect to the grades on Italian roads too that one remarks a falling off from !rench standards# -orth of !lorence in the "alley of the Mugello we ha"ing left the well&worn roads in search of something out of the common found a bit of se"enteen %er cent# grade# This was negotiated readily enough since it was of brief e@tent but another rise of twenty&fi"e %er cent# >it looked forty&fi"e from the cushions of a low&hung car? followed and on this we could do nothing# !ortunately there was a way around as there usually is in Euro%e so nothing was lost but time and we benefited by the acFuisition of some knowledge

concerning "arious things which we did not before %ossess# *nd we were content for that was what we came for anyway# !rom !lorence south by the less direct road "ia *reAAo Perugia and Terni there is another sur%risingly sudden rise but likewise brief# It is on this same road that one remarks from a great distance the towers of 8%oleto %iercing the sky at a seemingly enormous height while the background mountain road o"er the Passo della 8omma rises si@ hundred and thirty metres and tries the courage of e"ery automobilist %assing this way# To achie"e many of these Italian hill&towns one does not often rise abru%tly but rather almost im%erce%tibly but here in ten kilometres say half a doAen miles the 8trada di grande CommunicaAione rises a thousand feet and that is considerable for a road su%%osedly laid out by military strategists# *s a contrast to these hilly switch&back roads running inland from the north to the south may be com%ared that running from +ome to -a%les not the route usually followed "ia Jallombrosa and !rosinone but that "ia Jelletri Terracina and Gaeta# Here the highroad is nearly flat though truth to tell of none too good surface all the way to -a%les# Practically it is as good a road as that which runs inland and offers to any who choose to %ass that way certain delights that most other tra"ellers in Italy know not of# *t Cisterna di +oma forty&eight kilometres from +ome one is in the midst of the Pontine Marshes it is true and it is also more or less of a mar"el that a decent road could ha"e been built here at all# !rom this %oint of "iew it is interesting to the automobilist who has a hobby of studying the road&building systems of the countries through which he tra"els# 9f the Pontine Marshes themsel"es it is certain that they are not salubrious and malaria is most %re"alent near them# *%%ius Claudius in 2.0 B# C# tried to drain the marsh and so did CYsar *ugustus and Theodoric after him and the Po%es Boniface JIII Martinus J and 8i@tus J but the morass is still there in s%ite of the fact that a com%any calling itself ;fficio della BonificaAione delle Paludi Pontine is to&day working continuously at the same %roblem# Putting these "arious classes of Italian roads aside for the moment there remains but one other "ariety to consider that of the mountain roads of the high *l%ine "alleys and those crossing the 9berland and further east those in communication with the *ustrian Tyrol# 9n the west these con"erge on Milan and Turin "ia the region of the lakes and the "alleys of *osta and 8usa and in the centre and east gi"e communication from Brescia Jerona and Jenice with =est Germany and *ustria# 3Illustration) +oad Ma% of -orth Italy6 These are the best %lanned and best ke%t roads in Italy take them by and large# The most celebrated are those leading from Turin into !ranceP "ia 8usa and the Col du Mont Gene"re to BrianWon and "ia Mont Cenis to Modane and GrenobleP "ia the Jal dB*osta and the Petit 8aint Bernard to *lbert"ille in !rance or "ia the Grand 8aint Bernard to 8witAerland# :ust north of the 'ago di Maggiore accessible either from Como or from Milan direct "ia *rona is the famous road o"er the 8im%lon Pass at an ele"ation of 0 11L metres abo"e the sea# By this road the best road in all Italy without Fuestion one enters or lea"es the kingdom by the gateway of ,omodossola# 9n entering Italy by this route one %asses the last rock&cut gallery near Cre"ola and by a high&built "iaduct thirty metres or more abo"e

the bed of the ri"er it crosses the ,i"eria# 8oon the "ineyards and all the signs of the insect life of the southland meet the eye# Italy has at last been reached no more eternal snow and ice no more %eaked roofto%s the whole region now flattens out into the 'ombard %lain# ,omodossola has all the ear&marks of the ItalianBs manner of life and building of houses albeit that the town itself has no s%lendid monuments# *nother entrance to the Italian lake region through the mountain barrier beyond is by the road o"er the 8an Bernardino Pass and BellinAona# The 8an Bernardino Pass is not to be confounded with those of the Grand and Petit 8aint Bernard# The %resent roadway dates from .L00 when it was built by the engineer Pocobelle at the joint e@%ense of the 8ardinian and Grisons go"ernments# Its chief object was to connect Genoa and Turin directly with 8witAerland and west Germany# The %ass crosses the +heinwald at a height of 0 1K2 metres# This %assage across the *l%s was known to the ancient +omans and down to the fifteenth century it was known as the Jogelberg# * mission brother Bernardino of 8iena %reaching the gos%el in the high "alleys erected a cha%el here which ga"e the %ass the name which it bears to&day# In %art the road tunnels through the hillsides in %art runs along a shelf beside the %reci%ice and here and there crosses a mountain torrent by some massi"e bridge of masonry# 'ike most of the mountain roads leading into Italy from 8witAerland and Germany the southern slo%e descends more abru%tly than that on the north# The coach dri"er may trot his horses down hill though so well has the descent been engineered and the automobilist may rush things with considerably more safety here than on the better known routes# *nother celebrated gateway into Italy is that o"er the 8%lugen Pass from Coire >in Italian nomenclature) Colmo dellB9rso?# It was com%leted by the *ustrian go"ernment in .L02 to com%ete with the new&made road a few kilometres to the west o"er the Bernardino which fa"oured 8witAerland and Germany and took no consideration whate"er of the interests of *ustria# The summit of the 8%lugen Pass is 0 ../ metres abo"e sea&le"el and on a narrow ridge near by runs for si@ kilometres the boundary between 8witAerland and Italy# Entering Italy by the 8%lugen Pass one finds the CdoganaC a dull ugly grou% of buildings just below the first series of facets which dro% down from the crest# It is as lonesome and gloomy a %lace of residence as one can %ossibly concei"e as e@isting on the earthBs surface# 9ne forgets entirely that it is "ery nearly the heart of ci"iliAed Euro%eP there is nothing within "iew to suggest it in the least not a scra% of "egetation not a sil"ery streak of water not a habitation e"en that might not be as a%%ro%riately set u%on a shelf of rock by the side of Hecla# The !rench army under MarUchal Macdonald crossed the %ass in .L11 when but a mere trail e@isted but with a loss of a hundred men and as many horses# 9f late years the %assage of the Col has been rendered the easier by the cutting of two long galleries# *nother engineering work of note is met a little farther on in the Gorge of 8an Giacomo a work com%leted by Carlo ,onegani in the reign of the Em%eror !rancis II and just beyond the boiling torrent of the 'iro is s%anned by a daring bridge of masonry# +oad signs in Italy are not as good or as freFuent as one finds in !rance but where they e@ist they are at least ser"iceable# The +oman

milestone of old has ceased to ser"e its %ur%ose though solitary e@am%les still e@ist and their %lace is taken by the go"ernmental HbornesH and the %lacards %osted at the initiation of the Touring Club and "arious automobile organiAations in certain %arts %articularly in the north# The signboards of the Touring Club Italiano are distinctly good as far as they go but they are infreFuent# *ll hotels and garages affiliated with the club hang out a characteristic and e"er welcome sign and there one is sure of finding the best welcome and the best accommodations for man and his modern beast of burden the mechanical horses of iron and bronAe harnessed to his lu@urious tonneau or limousine# 3Illustration) Italian +oad 8igns6 =ith regard to road ma%s for Italy there e@ist certain go"ernmental ma%s like those of the 9rdnance 8ur"ey in England or of the Stat Major in !rance but they are %ractically useless for the automobilist and are only interesting from a to%ogra%hic sense# Taride the !rench ma% %ublisher issues a chea% series of Italian road ma%s co"ering the entire %eninsula in three sheets %rinted in three colours with main roads marked %lainly in red# They are easily read and clear and ha"e the ad"antage of being chea% the three sheets costing but a franc each but one sus%ects that they were not com%osed entirely from first hand well&authenticated recent sources of information# 'ittle discre%ancies such as just where a railway crosses a road etc# etc# are freFuently to be noted# This is %erha%s a small matter but the genuine "agabond tourist whether he is %lodding along on foot or rolling smoothly on his fi"e inch %neumatics likes to know his e@act whereabouts at e"ery ste% of the way# 9n the whole the Italian HTarideH ma%s are fairly satisfactory and they are much more easily read than the more elaborate series in fifty&si@ sheets on a scale of .&. 0E1 111 issued by the Touring Club Italiano or the thirty&fi"e sheets of the Carta 8tradale dBItalia 8istema Becherel&Marieni which by reason of the number of sheets alone are in no way as con"enient as the three sheet ma%# The Becherel&Marieni ma%s are howe"er beautifully %rinted and ha"e a system of marking localities where one finds su%%lies of gasoline a mechanician or a garage which is "ery useful to the automobilist besides gi"ing warning of all hills and with some attem%t at %recision also marking the good mediocre and bad roads# This is im%ortant but as the writer has so often found that a good road of yesterday has become a bad road of to&day and will be %erha%s a worse one to&morrow he realiAes that the fluctuating Fuality of Italian roads %re"ents any genius of a ma%&maker from doing his best# These ma%s in se"en colours are %erha%s the best works of their kind in Italy at least ranking with the Touring Club ma%s and com%letely co"er the country whereas the other series is not as yet wholly com%lete# 3Illustration) Profile +oad Ma% Bologna&&!lorence6

Membershi% in the great Touring Club Italiano is almost a necessity for one who would enjoy his Italian tour to the full# The H*nnuario H gi"ing information as to hotels and garages and miniature %lans of all the cities and %rinci%al towns&&%resented gratis to members&&is all but indis%ensable while the three %ocket "olumes entitled 8trade di Grande CommunicaAione with the kilometric distances between all Italian %laces e@ce%t the merest hamlets and the %rofile ele"ations >miniature ma%s hundreds of them? of the great highways are a boon and a blessing to one who would know the easiest and least hilly road between two %oints# The

accom%anying diagram e@%lains this better than words#

CH*PTE+ J I- 'IG;+I* The most ra"ishingly beautiful entrance into Italy is by the road along the Mediterranean shore# The !rench +i"iera and its gilded %leasures its great hotels its CchicC resorts and its entrancing combination of seasca%e and landsca%e are known to all classes of tra"ellers but at Menton almost on the frontier one is within armBs reach of things Italian where life is less fe"erish in strong contrast to the !rench atmos%here which en"elo%s e"erything to the west of the great white triangle %ainted on the cliff abo"e the Pont 8aint 'ouis and marking the boundary between the two great 'atin countries# The H+oute Internationale H leading from !rance to Italy crosses a dee% ra"ine by the Pont 8aint 'ouis with the railway running close beside# -ot so "ery long ago there was a unity of s%eech and manners among the inhabitants of Menton and the neighbouring Italian towns of Grimaldi Mortola and Jentimiglia but little by little the +a"ine of 8aint 'ouis has become a hostile frontier where the custom house officials of !rance and Italy regard each other if not as enemies at least as aliens# The two %eo%les are howe"er of the same race and ha"e the same historic traditions# It was just here on %assing the frontier that we asked a dee%&eyed sun&burnt young girl of eighteen or twenty if she was an Italian thinking %erha%s she might be a -iWoise who among the worldBs beautiful women occu%y a "ery high %lace# 8he re%lied in !rench&Italian) H9ui aussi bien JenitienneTH This was strange for most Jenetians since Titian set the style for them ha"e been blondes# * ch[teau of the Grimaldi family crowns the %or%hyry height just to the eastward of the Italian frontier and below is the Italian C,oganaC where the automobilist and other tra"ellers by road go through the formalities made necessary by go"ernmental red ta%e# +ed ta%e is all right in the right %lace but it should be cut off in %ro%er lengths so that officials need not be obliged to Fuibble o"er a few soldi while indi"iduals lose a doAen francs or more in "aluable time# This matter of customs formalities at Grimaldi is only an incident# The automobilistBs troubles really commence at a little shack in Menton on !rench soil just before the Pont 8aint 'ouis is crossed# Here he has his H%assa"antH made out an official taking a lot of "aluable time to decide whether the cushions of your automobile are red orange or brown# $ou stick out for orange because they were that colour when you bought the outfit but the re%resentati"e of the law sticks out too&&he for red# The result is you com%romise on brown and ho%e that the other customs guardian on duty at the frontier %ost by which you will enter !rance again will be blessed with the same sense of colour&blindness as was his fellow of Menton# 9nce this formality gone through&&and you %ay only two sous for the documents&&you ha"e no trouble getting back into !rance again by whiche"er frontier town you %ass# There are no duties to %ay and no dis%utes so really one cannot com%lain# It is for his benefit anyway that the H%assa"antH describing the %eculiarities of automobile is issued# *t the Grimaldi C,oganaC on entering Italy you are made to %ay duty on

what little gasoline you may ha"e in your tanks e"en for as little as a litre# Presumably you %ass your machine through the Italian customs with one of the Htri%tychesH issued by any of the great automobile clubs or touring associations as otherwise you ha"e to %ut down gold and a thousand or fifteen hundred francs in gold one does not usually carry around loose in his %ocket# =e %assed through readily enough but a %oor non&!rench non&Italian s%eaking *merican who followed in our wheel&tracks had not made his %re%arations beforehand and !rench banknotes didnBt look good enough to the Italian customs official and a day was lost accordingly while the %oor unfortunate rolled back down hill to Menton and sought to turn the notes into gold# The banks ha"ing just closed he was not able to do this as readily as he thought he might and it was well on after sunrise that he followed our trail&&and ne"er caught u% with us all the way to Grosetto# Mortola is the first town of note that one %asses on entering Italian soil but beyond its as%ect so alien to that of the small town in !rance it is not worthy of remark# Jentimiglia comes ne@t where the tra"eller by rail goes through eFually annoying customs formalities to those e@%erienced by the tra"eller by road at Grimaldi# These are not a%t to be so costly as the customs officials take him at his word graciously chalk his luggage and %ass him on# The Guardie&!inanAe or customs officer of Italy is a genteel looking young %erson with a bowler hat to%%ed with a feather cockade# He is e"en as gay and %icturesFue as the Hcarabinieri reales H though he is a mere %lebeian among the noblesse of soldierdom# The Jintimille of the !rench or the Jentimiglia of the Italians was the ancient Intemilium of the +omans# To&day on the left bank of the +oja is a new city made u% of the attributes of a great railway and frontier station and a numerous assemblage of alberghi hotels restaurants and the like# Jentimiglia is not unlo"ely neither is it lo"ely in a %icturesFue romantic sense# Its site is charming on the banks of the tumbling +oja at the base of the *l%s of Piedmont just where they %lunge from a height of a thousand or twel"e hundred metres down into the la%%ing Mediterranean wa"es# Jentimiglia is %ractically the frontier town of Piedmont and it was fought for by all the warring houses of these %arts in the middle ages# The Genoese held it for a time then the Counts of Pro"ence and the ,uke of 8a"oy# It was a game of gi"e&and&take all round and in the m\lUe most of the townBs mediY"al monuments ha"e disa%%eared# *cross the -er"ia to the north is Monte *%%io one of the chief s%urs of the Maritime *l%s in Italy# 9n a jutting crag of rock in %lain "iew from the town below is an ancient +oman CcastellumC# Two fragmentary towers alone remain and as a ruin e"en it is beneath consideration# 9ne only notices it in %assing and recalls the more magnificent Tower of *ugustus at 'a Turbie high abo"e Monte CarloBs rock and still in %lain "iew of Jentimiglia&&with a good glass# * fine relic of the ,orias&&that great family of great Genoese&&is still to be seen in %icturesFue ruin at ,olce *cFua a few miles further u% the "alley of the torrent# Bordighera is the first of the Italian +i"iera winter stations for in"alids# That describes it %erfectly# Its surroundings are delightful enough but there is little that is attracti"e about the %lace itself# The automobilist will ha"e no trouble finding his way through the town if he kee%s straight on but dri"es carefully and a"oids the in"alids and baby carriages#

It was a sailor of Bordighera who ga"e the order to Hwet the ro%esH&&an old seafaring trick known the world o"er&&when the obelisk on the PiaAAa san Pietro at +ome erected by 8i@te&Quint was tottering on its base# In return for the ser"ice he asked the fa"our of the Po%e that his nati"e town should ha"e the honour of su%%lying the churches of +ome with their greenery on Palm 8unday# The su%%lying of %alm branches and the e@%loiting of semi&in"alids are the chief industries of Bordighera# 8an +emo is "ery like Bordighera e@ce%t that it is an im%ro"ement on it# The Fuarter where the great hotels are found looks like all towns of its class but the old town with its narrow canyon&like streets its buttressed roofs and walls still breathes of the mediY"al s%irit# It is as crowded a Fuarter where dwell men women and children &&seemingly children mostly &&as can be found east of Grand Canal or Hester 8treets in down&town -ew $ork# The automobile tourist will not care much for 8an +emo unless he is hungry in which case the Hotel de Paris will cater for him a little better than any other of the townBs resort hotels# The road continues close beside the sea as it has since !rUjus in the Jar was %assed swee%ing around bold %romontories on a shelf of rock tunnelling through some mountain s%ur di%%ing down to sea&le"el here and rising three or fi"e hundred metres ten kilometres further on# This delightfully dis%osed road by the sea may well be re"iled by the automobilist because of the fact that e"ery half doAen kilometres or so it crosses the railway at the same le"el# These le"el crossings are about as dangerous as the *merican "arietyP in a way more so# They are barred sim%ly by a great swinging tree&trunk which of all things swings outwards and across the road when not in use# E"en when closed this bar is so %laced that an automobile at s%eed could well enough sli% beneath it and the %assengers who were not thrown out and killed by this o%eration surely would be by the train which would %robably come along before they could %ick themsel"es u%# These railway barriers are almost always closed whether a train is due or not and it is commonly said that they are only o%ened for the automobilist on the %ayment of a few soldi# This the writer knows to be calumny# It is concei"able that the circumstance has been met with and it is concei"able that in many more instances stranger automobilists ha"e scattered coin in their wake which led to the de"elo%ment of the %ractice but all the same one need not should not in fact countenance any such %ractice of blackmail# The mere fact that these obstructions are there is enough of a %enance for the automobilist who in ten hours of running will certainly lose one or two hours waiting for the gates to be o%ened# These Italian coast line "istas are Fuite the most sa"agely beautiful of any along the Mediterranean# =e ra"e o"er the stri% dominated by 'a Turbie and Monte CarloBs rock and o"er the Corniche dB9r of the EstUrel in !rance but really there is nothing Fuite so %rimiti"e and uns%oiled in its beauty as this less&known itinerary# The background mountains rise grim behind and beneath# *t the bottom of the cliff a hundred metres below the road on which you ride break the soa%y wa"es of the sea# Gulls circle about uttering their shrill cries an eagle soars abo"e and far below a fisherman %ushes laAily at his oar in the con"entional stand&u% Mediterranean fashion or a red&brown latteen&rigged fishing boat darts in or out of some half&hidden bay or CcalanFueC# The whole %oetic ensemble is hard to beat and yet this %art of the a"erage Italian journey is usually rolled off in e@%ress trains with ne"er a sto% between the frontier and Genoa most of the time %assing through the fifty rock&cut tunnels which allow the railway access to these %arts# To see this wonderful stri% of coast line at its

best it must be seen from the highroad# *t *rma as the road runs along at the waterBs "ery edge is an old sFuare donjon tower reminding one of those great kee%s of England and of !oulFueBs -erra in -ormandy# Its history is lost in obli"ion but it is a landmark to be noted# Porto MauriAio is the "ery ideal of a small Mediterranean sea&%ort# It is a hill&to% town too in that it crowns a %romontory jutting seawards forming a sheltering harbour for its busy coming and going of small&fry shi%%ing# 9li"e oil and a sweet white wine like that of Cy%rus grown on the hillsides roundabout form the chief of the merchandise sent out from the little %ortP but the whole town bears a %ros%erous well&ke%t air that makes one regret that it had not a battery of Hsights H in order that one might linger a while in so %leasant a %lace# Porto MauriAioBs church is a remarkably "ast and handsome building# 9neglia the birth%lace of the great Genoese admiral *ndrea ,oria lies just beyond# =ine in skins hung u% on rafters to mellow seems to be 9negliaBs substitute for wine cellars but otherwise the hurried tra"eller at 9neglia remarks nothing but that it is a HresortH with big hotels and big gardens and many guests lolling about killing time# The older %art of the town with the wine skins is decidedly the most interesting feature# *t Marina&*ndora is the ruin of an old castle with a ghostly legend to it to add an attraction it might not otherwise ha"e# * Pa%al -uncio was one day murdered here within its walls and Hin e@tremisH the %relate called down curses u%on the surrounding country %raying that it might wither and dry u%# It must ha"e been an efficacious im%recation as the country roundabout looks like a desert waste# -ot an oli"e nor an orange gro"e is in sight and only a few scrubby "ineyards dot the landsca%e# *t the Ca%o delle Melle a doAen kilometres beyond it all changes and the land blossoms again though truth to tell both the wine and oli"e %roducts ha"e the re%utation of falling off in Fuality as one goes further east# *lassio is a now well&de"elo%ed Italian seaside resort# The Italians and the Germans fill it to o"erflowing at all seasons of the year and %rices are mounting skywards with a ra%idity which would do credit to Monte Carlo itself# There is a considerable fishing and coastwise trade at *lassio which along the Fuais endows it with a certain %icturesFueness and the chief hotel is Fuartered in a se"enteenth century %alaAAo formerly belonging to the Marchese ,urante# *lassio took its name from *lassia a daughter of 9tho the Great who fleeing from the %aternal roof came here with her lo"er long years ago# This was the beginning of the de"elo%ment of *lassio as a Mediterranean resort# *nd the Germans ha"e been coming in increasing numbers e"er since# 9ff shore is the isle of Gallinaria# It has a circular tower on it and a legend goes with it that the name of the island is deri"ed from a s%ecies of hens and chickens which were bred here# The connection seems a little "ague but for the sake of "ariation it is here gi"en# Here and there as the road winds along the coast some "ine&clad ruin of a castle tower is %assed and the background foot&hills of the *l%s are %eo%led with toy "illages and towns like 8witAerland itself# *lbenga is %rimarily a great big o"ergrown coast town of to&day but was formerly the ancient metro%olis of a minor %olitical di"ision of

'iguria and the one time ally of Carthage# E"idences of this fallen %ride of %lace are not wanting in *lbenga to&day# There are innumerable great brick and stone towers now often built into some surrounding structure# Three may be remarked as landmarks of the townBs great ci"ic and military glory of the %ast) the Torre de Marchese Males%ina the Torre dei Guelfi and another unnamed built u% into the %resent Casa del Commune# *lbenga is not a resort since it has the re%utation of being an unhealthful %lace but %robably this is not so as there is no %articular sFualidness to be noticed sa"e that incident to the workaday affairs of factories worksho%s and shi%%ing# The inhabitants of the neighbouring towns %rofess to recogniAe the nati"e of *lbenga at a glance when they hail him with the remark) HHai faccia di *lbenga#H&&H$ou ha"e the *lbenga face#H This is %robably local jealousy only and is not really contem%t# * short way out from *lbenga is the Ponte 'ungo an old +oman bridge of the time of the Em%eror Honorius# 8a"ona the largest %lace between the frontier and Genoa is still fifty kilometres to the eastward but midway between it and *lbenga is !inale Marina a town of one main street two enormous %ainted churches an im%osing fortification wall a %alm&%lanted %romenade and a munici%al %alace bearing o"er its %ortal the arms of a "isiting 8%anish monarch who ruled here tem%orarily in the fifteenth century# The Castello Ga"one on a hillside abo"e the town and back from the coast is a ruin but its %icturesFue outer walls with diamond&cut stone facets like those of the great round tower of Milan or of Tantallon Castle in 8cotland are Fuite remarkable# !inale MarinaBs *lbergo Grimaldi is housed in an old ch[teau of some noble of the days when the town was the ca%ital of a MarFuisate# -ot much changed is the old ch[teau e@ce%t to %ut new wine in the old bottles and new linen on the antiFue beds# To be sure there are electric %ush&buttons in the chambers but as they are useless they can hardly be taken into consideration# The *lbergo Grimaldi has scant accommodation for automobiles# Three might range themsel"es along the wall in the lower corridor and would indeed be well enough housed though in no sense is there the least semblance of a garage# $ou %ay nothing additional for this and thatBs something in Italy where automobiles&&in the small towns&&are still regarded as mechanical curiosities and their occu%ants as fanatics with more money than good sense# The Italian country %o%ulation is by no means hostile to the automobilist but their good nature e"en is often e@as%erating# !inale Marina is the best sto%%ing %lace between Menton and Genoa if one is tra"elling by road and would a"oid the resorts# -oli just beyond the Ca%o di -oli is an unim%ortant small townP ne"ertheless it is the %roud %ossessor of a collection of ruined walls and towers which would be a %ride to any mediY"al Hborgo#H -oli like *lbenga was once the chief town of a little %olitical di"isionP but to&day it is a com%lete nonentity# In bright sunshine from the road winding o"er the Ca%o di -oli one may see the smoke of GenoaBs chimneys and shi%%ing rising cloud&like on the horiAon far away to the eastward and may e"en descry that classic landmark the great lighthouse called H'a 'anternaH at the end of the mole jutting out between 8an Pier dB*rena and Genoa# * castle&crowned rocky islet the Isola dei Bergeggi lies close off

shore beneath the Ca%o di Jado itself crowned with a se"enteenth century fortress cut out of the "ery rock# 8till following the rocky coastline one draws slowly u% on 8a"ona# 8a"ona is backed u% by oli"e gardens and %ine&clad hills while abo"e away from the coast roll the first foot&hills of the *%ennines their nearby slo%es and crests dotted here and there with some grim fortress of to&day or a watch tower of mediY"al times# The *l%s are now dwindling into the *%ennines but the change is hardly %erce%tible# *bo"e the roofs and chimneys of the town itself rises an old tower of masonry on which is %erched a colossal madonna a "enerated shrine of the 'igurian sailor&folk# It bears an inscri%tion which seems to scan eFually well in school&book 'atin or colloFuial Italian# HIn mare irato in subita %rocella In"oco te nostra benigna stella#H Mago the Carthaginian made 8a"ona a refuge after his sack of Genoa# The Genoese in turn came along and blocked u% the %ort out of sheer jealousy lest it might become a commercial ri"al of Genoa itself# The bay of 8a"ona is delightful e"en =ordsworth who mostly sang of lakes and larks remarked it though in no way is it su%erior in beauty to a score of other indentations in the Mediterranean coastline from Marseilles around to -a%les# The automobilist will best remember 8a"ona for its e@ceedingly bad e@its and entrances and the clean and unencumbered streets in the town itself# Here are great wide %ark&like thoroughfares flagged with flat smooth stones which are a dream to the automobilist# There ne"er were such su%erbly laid %a"ing blocks as one finds in 8a"ona# *s one lea"es 8a"ona he actually begins to sense the smoke and acti"ities of Genoa in his nostrils albeit they are a good fifty kilometres away as yetP around a half a doAen jutting barrier ca%es across innumerable railway tracks#

and

JaraAAe is not a sto%%ing %oint on many tra"ellersB Italian journeyings and to state it frankly %erha%s for the majority it is not worth "isiting# It is a sort of o"erflow 8unday resort for the %eo%le of Genoa in that each of its two hotels ha"e dining accommodation for a hundred %eo%le or more# *side from this it is endowed with a certain Fuaint %icturesFueness# It has a %alm&tree&lined Fuay which borders a string of shi%&building yards where the wooden walls of GenoaBs commerce&carrying craft were formerly built in large numbers and where to&day a remnant of this industry is still carried on# Great long&horned white o@en haul timber through the crooked streets and along the Fuays and there is e"er a smell of tar and the sound of sawing and hammering# *n artist with %en or brush will like JaraAAe better than any other class of tra"eller# The automobilist will ha"e all he can manage in dodging the o@ teams and their great trundling loads of timber# There is a fragment of a ruined castle near by on the outskirts of the town and farther away back in the hills is a monastery called HIl ,eserto H and %ro%erly enough named it is# It was founded by a lady of the Palla"icini family who as a recom%ense&&it is to be %resumed&&insisted on being re%resented in the %ainted altar&%iece as the Madonna though clad in mediY"al Genoese dress# =hat "anityT Cogoletto %ractically a Genoese suburb claims to be the birth %lace of Columbus# Perha%s indeed it is so as his father ,ominico was known to be a %ro%erty owner near Genoa# 8a"ona 9neglia and Genoa itself all

ha"e memories of the family without doubt#

so the disco"erer was of 'igurian %arentage

H8estri&PonenteT Cornigliano&'igureT 8an Pier dB*renaTH >with its Jilla 8erra and its Babylonian&like gardens? cry out the railway em%loyees at each sto% of the Genoa&bound trainP and the same names roll u% on the automobilistBs road ma% with a like %ersistency# Each class of tra"eller wonders why Genoa is not reached more Fuickly and the automobilist for the last doAen kilometres has been cursed with a most e@as%erating always&in&the&way tramway with innumerable carts badly %a"ed roads and much mud# The a%%roaches to almost all great cities are eFually "ileP Genoa is no e@ce%tion and the traffic in the city&&and in all the built u% suburbs&&Ckee%s to the leftC a local custom which is ine@%licable since in the o%en country it goes to the right# Joltri is a long drawn&out uninteresting waterside town with more chimneys belching smoke and cinders in strong contrast to the %ine&clad background hills in which nestle the suburban "illas of the ,oria the Galliera and the Brignole families of other days# Pegli is but a continuation of Joltri Genoa 'a 8u%erba is still a doAen kilometres away# Pegli is a resort of some im%ortance and its chief attraction is the Jilla Palla"icini with a labyrinth of grottoes subterranean lakes cement moulded rocks Chinese %agodas and the like# It is not lo"ely but is commonly reckoned a sight worth sto%%ing off to see# The Italians call this hodge %odge Ha ferocity of in"ention#H The %hrase is worthy of %er%etuation# The PalaAAo Palla"icini was the suburban residence of the banker of the Court of +ome but he was a sort of renegade financier for he went off to England with the churchly funds and became an English country gentleman in the reign of Queen EliAabeth# His H%astH was known for some %oet&historian of the time branded him with the following cou%let)&& H8ir Horatio Pal"asene =ho robbed the Po%e to %ay the Queen#H The Jilla ,oria at Pegli was a work of CanAio built for one of the richest merchants of Genoa in the days of Charles J# It was like its contem%oraries a gorgeous establishment but in %o%ular fancy it enjoys not a whit of the enthusiasm bestowed u%on the stagy tricky bric&]&brac and stucco Jilla Palla"icini# The entrance to HGenoa la 8u%erbaH by road from the west is a sorry s%ectacle a grim crowded thoroughfare decidedly workaday and none too cleanly# !rom 8an Pier dB*rena one comes immediately within the confines of Genoa itself just after circling the western %ort and %assing the sky&%iercing H'a 'anterna H one of the most ancient lighthouses e@tant dating from .E5/# 3Illustration) CPalaAAo ,oria GenoaC6

Genoa is neglected or ignored by most tra"ellers and searchers after the %icturesFue in Italy# This is a mistake for GenoaBs %ark of *cFuasola the gardens of the Jilla +osaAAa and of the Jilla de -egroni and the terraces of the PalaAAo ,oria offer as enchanting a series of %anoramas as those of +ome or !lorence and Fuite different in that they ha"e always the "ista of the blue Mediterranean as a background# 3Illustration) Ma% Genoa6 Genoa is a biAarre combination of the old and the new of the mountain and the %lain of great docks and whar"es and of streets of stairs

rising almost "ertically# The general effect of Genoa is as if e"erything in it had been %iled one on to% of another until finally it had to s%read out at the base# Enormous caserns fringe the heights and great barracks line the whar"es while in between and here there and e"erywhere are great and "enerable %alaces and churches of marble many of them built in layers of black and white stone indicating that they were built by the commune in mediY"al days or by one of the four great families of ,oria Grimaldi 8%inola or !ieschi the only ones who had the %ri"ilege of using it# GenoaBs labyrinth of twisting climbing streets and alleys are all but im%racticable for wheeled traffic and for that reason strangers who do not walk Hen tourH as much as they ought sa"e in the corridors of %icture galleries and the aisles of churches know not Genoa sa"e its main arteries&&nor e"er will unless they change their tactics# The automobile is only useful in Genoa in getting in and out of town and e"en that is accom%lished with fear and trembling by the most cold&blooded chauffeur that e"er li"ed# =hat with the "ile roads the magnificent distances and the ceaseless irres%onsible traffic of carts and drays tramways and what not Genoa is indeed of all other cities on earth in need of a boule"ard for the new traffic# To get to your hotel at the further end of the town as you make your entrance by the road circling the base of H'a 'anterna H can only be likened to a tri% down Broadway in -ew $ork at four oBclock in the afternoon# That would not be %leasureP neither is getting in and out of Genoa at any time between fi"e in the morning and se"en at night# To what degenerate de%ths these great %alaces of the Genoa of other days ha"e fallen only the curious and inFuisiti"e are likely to know# 9ne into which we %enetrated&&looking for something which wasnBt there&&was a "eritable hi"e of industry and as cosmo%olitan as Babylon# It was near the Bourse and one entered marble halls by a marble staircase flanked by a marble balustrade and finished off with newel %osts su%%orted by marble lions# The great entrance hall was surrounded by a colonnade of s"elt marble columns and in the centre ascended a monumental marble staircase# Two marble fountains %layed in an inner courtyard which was %a"ed with marble flags and a statue also marble in a niche faced the great doorway# 9n the first floor were more marble columns and a frescoed "aulting# !rom the corridors o%ened a battery of doors into offices of all sorts of industrial enter%rises from one gi"en to e@%loiting a new combustible to another which was financing a rubber %lantation in *byssinia# * chestnut&roaster was %erambulating the corridors with his stock in trade furnace all alight and a brown&robed monk was begging his daily bread# 9n the ne@t floor u% another marble staircase were still other business offices &&shi%%ing firms wine&factors and one Guise%%e Bellini re%resenting an *merican factory whose out%ut of agricultural machinery is found in all four Fuarters of the globe# Breakfast foods were there too and there was a big lithogra%h of a !all +i"er 'ine 8teamer on the walls# * whole city of merchants and agents were cloistered here in the fi"e stories of this one&time ducal abode# ;% under the roof was a %hotogra%her and an artistBs studio where a long&haired Italian >8ignor something or other the sign read? %ainted the bluest of blue sky %ictures and the most fiery Jesu"ian eru%tions to sell to tourists through the medium of the hotel %orters of the town below#

Thus it was that an antiFue shrine of gallantry and romance had become the tem%le of twentieth century commerce# The noble arms with a heraldic angel still to be seen o"er the entrance doorway count for nothing to&day but e@ist as a "i"id reminder of a glorious %ast# In .E11 the %alace was the shrine of an artistic nobilityP to&day it is a tem%le of chicanery# The new %art of Genoa imitates Milan as Milan imitates Paris# The galleries or arcades of Milan Genoa and -a%les full of sho%s cafUs and restaurants would be admirable institutions in a more northerly clime where the sun is less strong and rain more freFuent# Here their glass roofs radiate an insufferable heat which only in the coldest and most intem%erate months is at all bearable# -e"ertheless these arcades are an amusing and characteristic feature of the large Italian cities# Hotels in Genoa for the automobilist are of all ranks and at all %rices# BertoliniBs has garage accommodation for twenty&fi"e automobiles and charges two francs and a half to four francs a night for the accommodation which is dear or not accordingly as you may feel# The *lbergo ;nione on the PalaAAo Cam%etto has no garage >you will ha"e to seek out the !# I# *# T# garage a mile or more away? but you get something that is thoroughly Italian and "ery well a%%ointed too at most reasonable %rices# The Genoese suburban "illas are a %art of Genoa itself were built and inhabited by nobles of the city# 3Illustration) 8un ,ial Genoa6 is a collection of "illas which comes in that they

To the east of Genoa at *lbaro u%on one as a great sur%rise#

In reality they are suburban %alaces with here and there more modest "illas and again mere modest dwellings# *ll are surrounded with hedges of aloes "ines oli"e and orange gro"es and the effect is of the country# In the Jilla del Paradiso 'ord Byron was once a guest# Its loggia was a fa"ourite lounging %lace and the whole as%ect of the "illa and its grounds is as %aradisal as one has any right to e@%ect to find on earth# The Jilla Cambiaso was built in .EE/ by *lessi from designs it is commonly said of the great Michael *ngelo# The ancient 8ardinian PalaAAo Im%eriali is also here and is %o%ularly known as the *lbero dB9ro# * doAen miles to the east the gardens of the Jilla de !ranchi e@tend down stair by stair and fountain by fountain to the Mediterranean rocks# The "illa is a ty%ical terrace&house long and almost dwarfish on the front where the H%iano nobileH is also the ground floorP but on the side facing the sea it is a story higher and of stately %ro%ortions and is flanked by widely e@tending wings# It is the ty%ical 'igurian coast "illa one of a s%ecies which has set the co%y for many other seacoast "illas and grounds#

CH*PTE+ JI THE +IJIE+* ,I 'EJ*-TE

The gorgeous %anorama of coast scenery continues east of Genoa as it has obtained for some three hundred kilometres to the west# In fact the road through -er"i and +ecco is finer if anything and more hilly though less %reci%itous than that %ortion immediately to the westward of Genoa# Between Genoa and 8%eAia the railway %asses through fifty tunnels# The tra"eller by the high road has decidedly the best of it but there are always those le"el crossings to take into consideration though fewer of them# -er"i is a %lace of German hotels much beer and an unaccommodating tram line# The Grand Hotel gi"es access to the gardens of the "illa of the Marchese Gro%ollo and this of itself is an attraction that -er"iBs other rather tawdry inns lack# +ecco is an attracti"e and %o%ulous town but has no monuments of note#

The highroad here climbs u% the mountain of Portofino where the %romontory joins the mainland and dro%s down the other side to +a%allo 8anta Margherita Cer"ara and Portofino# High u% on the mountain ca%e is the Monastery of 8an !ruttoso a %icturesFue and solitary con"entual establishment in whose cha%el are many tombs of the ,orias all with good Gothic scul%tures# In the con"ent of Cer"ara en route to the "illage of Portofino on the east side of the ca%e !ranWois I just after he lost Hall sa"e honourH at the battle of Pa"ia was im%risoned %re"ious to his "oyage to 8%ain in the galleys which were to carry him a ca%ti"e to the domain of Charles Quint# The roads along here are Fuite the best of the whole e@tent of the eastern and western Italian +i"ieras# They are encumbered with a new class of traffic not met with further west# ;% o"er the mountain of Portofino winds the road in genuine mountain fashion though beautifully graded and ke%t# *t almost any turning one is likely to meet a great lumbering char&a&banc crowded with tourists with fi"e si@ or eight horses ca%arisoned like a circus %ageant with bells around their necks %heasantsB feathers bobbing in their to%&knots and a lusty 'igurian on the hindermost seat blowing a coaching horn for all he is worth# This is the Italian and German %leasure seekerBs way of amusing himself# He likes it the rest of us donBtT 8anta Margherita is now a full&blown resort with great hotels bathing&machines and all the usual attributes of a %lace of its class# 'ace&making and coral&fishing are the occu%ations of the inhabitants who do not li"e off of e@%loiting the tourists# Both %roducts are made here >and in Belgium and Birmingham? in the imitation "arieties so one had best beware# If one doesnBt s%eak Italian German will answer in all these resorts of the 'e"antine +i"iera Fuite as well as !rench or English# The HTea&8ho%H and H*merican BarH signs here gi"e way to those of HMunichH and HPilsner#H The "illage of Portofino itself is delightfulP a Fuaint little fishing %ort surrounded by tree&clad hills running to the waterBs edge# There is a HZtel 8%lendide once a "illa of the acce%ted 'igurian order and a less %retentious more characteristic *lbergo ,elfino lower down on the Fuay# The arms of the little %ort are a s%outing dol%hin as befits its seafaring as%ect so the *lbergo ,elfino certainly ought to ha"e the %reference for this reason if no other# 3Illustration) +a%allo6 9n the cliff road running around the %romontory from Portofino to

+a%allo are a half a doAen more or less modern "illas of Fuestionable architecture but of im%osing %ro%ortions and one and all delightfully dis%osed# 3Illustration) Ma% +a%allo and its Gulf6 The Jilla Pagana is the %ro%erty of the Marchese 8%inola and the Castel Paraggi the %ro%erty of a gentleman %rosaically named Brown is theatrically and delightfully dis%osed though biAarre in form# +a%allo at the head of the bay is a continuation of what has gone before# There are great hotels and %ensions and many of them# Its cam%aniles and church towers set off the framing of +a%allo delightfully# The HZtel de lBEuro%e has more than once been the abode of Queen Margherita of Italy and most of the notables who %ass this way# The hotel curiously enough seems none the worse for itP it is good reasonable in %rice and con"eniently situated on the Fuay o"erlooking a %icturesFue granite tower built u% from a foundation sunk in the waters of the Mediterranean# The Corsair ,ragutte a buccaneer of romantic days came along and %lundered these 'igurian towns as often as he felt like it# !reFuently they %aid no attention to his "isits sa"e to gi"e u% what blackmail and tribute he demandedP but +a%allo built this tower as a sort of watch tower or fortress# It is an admirable e@am%le of a sentinel watch tower and might well be classed as a diminuti"e fortress&ch[teau# !rom +a%allo to Chia"ari the coast road winds and rises and falls with wonderful "ariety between "illa gardens and "ineyards# 9n the slo%es abo"e are dotted tiny dwellings and church towers %oint skywards in most une@%ected %laces# The chief architectural attributes of Chia"ari are its arcaded house fronts a Fueer blend of round and %ointed arches and columns of all orders# The effect is undeniably good# The town was one of the most im%ortant in the old Genoese +e%ublic sa"e the ca%ital itself# The towers scattered here and there through the town and in the neighbourhood are all feudal relics albeit they are fragmentary# The Castle which the nati"e %oints out with %ride is neither "ery magnificent nor "ery elegant but is indicati"e of the style of building of the feudal time in these %arts# ,ecidedly the best things of Chia"ari are its house fronts and some craAy old streets running back from the main thoroughfares# There are some slate Fuarries in the neighbourhood and a ten foot slab larger than the to% of a billiard table can be cut if occasion reFuires# The church of 8an 8al"atore near 'a"agna where the Fuarries are was founded by Po%e Innocent IJ in .052# 'a"agna near by has a PalaAAo +osso in that it is built of a reddish stone though that is not its official name# It was an a%%anage of the !ieschi family who owned to Po%es Cardinals and soldiers in the gallant days of the Genoese +e%ublic# 8estri&'e"ante a half a doAen kilometres beyond Chia"ari is the last of the +i"iera resorts# It is a mere stri% of "illa and hotel&lined roadway with a delightful water front and a charming and idyllic background# 8%eAia is reached only by climbing a lengthy mountain road u% o"er the Pass of the BraccoP si@ty kilometres in all from 8estri to 8%eAia# The highroad now lea"es the coast to wind around inland o"er the lower slo%es of the *%ennines# The railway itself follows the shore# It is a finely graded road with entrancing far&away "istas of the sea the distant snow&ca%%ed summits of the mountains to the north and off southward the more gently rising Tuscan hills#

*fter ha"ing climbed some twenty&one hundred feet abo"e the sea the highroad runs down through the "alley of the Jara until finally at 8%eAia ItalyBs great marine arsenal one comes again to the Mediterranean shore# :ust before 8%eAia is reached snuggled close in a little bay is JernaAAa&&where the wine comes from at least the wine the %raises of which were sung by Boccaccio Has the %aragon of wines#H =ine is still a %roduct of the region but its Fuality may not be what it once was# 8%eAia is a snug conser"ati"e and e@clusi"e military and na"al town# The gold&lace and blue&cloth indi"iduals of the Hser"iceH dominate e"erything e"en to the waiters in the hotels and cafUs# -o one else has a show# The Hotel Croi@ de Malte >with a !rench name be it obser"ed? is the chic hotel of 8%eAia with %rices on a corres%onding scale and no garage# The *lbergo Italia eFually well situated a ty%ical Italian house of its class is more modest in its %rices and better as to its food# It has no garage either but under the circumstances that of itself is no drawback# *cross the street in a "acant store you may lodge your automobile for two francs a night or for one franc if you tell the ambitious and obliging little man who runs it that he demands too much# He is really the best thing we found in 8%eAia# =e had run out of gasoline in entering the city the long run down hill flattened out into a %lain just before the town was reached but he accommodatingly sent out a fi"e gallon tin >Horiginal %ackageH goods from Philadel%hia? and would take no increase in %rice for his trouble# 8uch a thing in the automobile line ought to be encouraged# =e %ay Hthrough the nose H as the !rench say often enough as it is# 8%eAiaBs suburban "illas are a natural outcome of its en"ironment but they are all modern and ha"e none of them the fla"our of historic romanticism about them# *n ancient castle tower on the hills abo"e 8%eAia is about the only feudal ruin near by# The "i%er the de"ice of the Jiscontis is still gra"en abo"e its entrance door to recall the fact that the de"ice of the Milanese nobles was a "i%er and that their natures too took after that of the unlo"ely thing# The Ji%er of Milan and the Jiscontis is a worthy cage com%anion to the hedgehog of !ranWois I# 8%eAiaBs gulf is all that 8%eAia is notP romantic lo"ely and "aried# It was described in ancient times by 8trabo the geogra%her and by Persius# 'ittle of its to%ogra%hical surroundings or climatic attributes ha"e changed since that day# The road down the coast from 8%eAia is marked on the ma%s as %erfectly flat but within a doAen kilometres before *rcola is reached is as stiff a cou%le of hair&%in turns as one will remember e"er ha"ing come across suddenly in his tra"els# They are not formidable hills %erha%s but they are sur%rising and since one has to dro% down again immediately to sea le"el they seem entirely unnecessary# The ri"er Magra which enters the sea just east of 8%eAia di"ided the Genoese territory from that of Tuscany# HMacra che %er cammin corto 'o Gono"ese %arta dal Toscano#H &&C,anteC HParadisio#H 8arAana is not a tourist %oint but the tra"eller by road will not be in a hurry to %ass it by# It has curiously enough an *lbergo della -uo"a $ork built on the fortification walls of feudal days# It is not for

this though that one lingers at 8arAana# The Bona%artes were originally descended from 8arAana ancestry# It was %ro"en by contem%orary documents that a certain Buona%arte a notary li"ed here in .0K5# 8u%%osedly it was this limb of the law who became the chief of the Corsican family# The old feudal castle of 8arAana with its round tower its moat and its later +enaissance gateway is the "ery ideal of mouldy mediY"alism# !rom 8arAana it is figurati"ely s%eaking but a ste% to Carrara and Massa the centres of the marble industry# 9f all the materials the artist reFuires none is so much sought after as the %ure white marble of Carrara# The scul%tured marble of Carrara goes out into the world from thousands of ateliers to thousands of resting %laces but it all comes from this great white mountainside in the *%ennines which has made the region famous and rich# This little Tuscan town of Carrara owes its all to its seemingly ine@haustible stores of milk&white fine&grained marbles# More es%ecially is the marble of Carrara in demand for statuaryP but in all the finer forms of car"en stone it finds its %lace su%reme# Men and beasts o@en horses and mules and carts of all sha%es and siAes make the "icinity of Carrara the centre of an u%roar that would be maddening if one had to li"e in itP but it is all "ery interesting to the stranger and s%eaks more loudly than words of the im%ortance of the great industry of the neighbourhood# *ll around are great hea%s&&mountains almost&&of broken s%lintered marbleP the dUbris merely of the great blocks which ha"e in times %ast been Fuarried and sent to all Fuarters of the earth# The Fuarries of Carrara ha"e been worked e"er since the +oman e%och and the tufted hillsides round about ha"e been burrowed to their bowels in taking out this untold wealth which without e@aggeration has been as great as that of many mines of gold# Quite twenty %er cent# of the %o%ulation work at the industry and fi"e hundred men are actually engaged in hewing out and slicing off the great blocks# Ten thousand at least find their li"elihood de%endent u%on the industry and two hundred thousand tons is a normal annual out%utP in %rice "alued at from .E1 to . E11 francs the cubic metre# *t Massa one joins the main road again running south by the shore# 9ne ne"er hears of the con"entional tourist sto%%ing at MassaP but we found the Hotel Massa and its dinner in the garden worth the taking and agreed that the Ch[teau in base rococo style >now the %ublic administrati"e buildings? a curiosity worth seeing# Massa has a -a%oleonic memory hanging o"er it too in that it was once the residence of the 'ittle Cor%oralBs sister# MassaBs Castello high abo"e all else in the town is grim lofty and s%ectacular though to be "iewed only from without# Massa is worth making a note of e"en by the hurried tra"eller# 8ince lea"ing 8arAana the high road has become worse and worse until in the "icinity of Carrara and Massa it is almost indescribably bad# There is no such stretch of bad road in Euro%e as this awful fifty kilometres for it continues all the way to 'ucca and 'i"orno# The "ast amount of traffic drawn by ten head of o@en at a time is what does it of course and as there is no way around one has to go through it though itBs a heart&breaking job to one that cares anything for his automobile# Pietrasanta eight kilometres farther on was for us an undisco"ered beauty s%ot and historic shrineP at least none of us had e"er heard of it till we %assed the %ortals# -ow we know that the walls through which we %assed were the same that the blood&thirsty battling 'orenAo di

Medici besieged in .5L0P and that the ancient bronAe font in the Ba%tistery was the work of ,onatello# =e were glad that Massa and Pietrasanta were counted in as they should be by e"eryone %assing this way e"en though they did take u% half a dayBs time&&all on account of the awful road&&%art of which time howe"er you are eating that e@cellent lunch in the garden of the Hotel Massa# That time will not be lost anyway one must eat somewhere# Eight kilometres beyond Massa is Jiareggio an unlo"ely inci%ient seaside resort for dwellers in the Tuscan townsP but a historic s%ot ne"ertheless and interesting from that "iew%oint at any rate# Jiareggio has no "illas or %alaces of note and its chief associations for the tra"eller lie in its memories of 8helley and 9uida the MarFuise de la +amUe# There is a monument erected to 8helley in .LI5 commemorating the fact that he was drowned here in the Tyrrhenian 8ea and his body consumed by fire on the shore# It was in the "illage of Massarosa near Jiareggio that that much&abused and "ery abusi"e old lady 9uida the MarFuis de la +amUe died in :anuary .I1L# 8ince .L// she had made Italy her home and for years she had li"ed here alone not in %o"erty or misery for she had a Hci"il %ensionH which was more than sufficient to kee% the wolf from the door# 8he died miserable and alone howe"er# 9uida was a more real more charitable %erson than she was gi"en credit for being# 8he didnBt like the English and *mericans she liked still less but she lo"ed the Italians# =hose business was it then if she chose to li"e among them with her unkem%t and unwholesome&looking dogs and her slatternly maid&of&all&workV 9uida as she herself said did not hate humanityP she hated societyP and she had more courage than some of the rest of us in that she would ha"e nothing to do with it# The "ineyards lying back of Jiareggio may not be the most lu@uriant in Italy but they blossom abundantly enough# 'ucca is thirty&fi"e kilometres from Jiareggio and the road still bad&&on to 'i"orno turning to the right instead of the left at Jiareggio it is worse# 'ucca has a right to its claim as one of the most ancient cities of Tuscany for it is one of the least u%&to&date of Italian cities# =hen !lorence was still sunk in its marsh 'ucca was already old and filled with a commercial im%ortance which to&day finds its echo in the distribution of the 'ucca oli"e oil of trade which one may buy at Jancou"er :ohannesburg or +io# Indeed the label on the bottle of oli"e oil is the only reminiscence many ha"e of 'ucca# 3Illustration) ';CC*6 The decadence came to 'ucca in due time and it degenerated sadly about its last magnificent ray being that shot out when -a%oleon ga"e the city to his sister EliAa Bacciochi with the title of Princess of 'ucca# 8he was a real benefactress to the country but with the fall of -a%oleon all his satellites were snuffed out too and then the benign influences of the Princess EliAa were forgotten and ignored# 8outhwest from 'ucca with Pisa lying between is the great %ort of 'eghorn whence are shi%%ed the marbles of Carrara the oil of 'ucca the wines of Chianti and the 'eghorn hats and braids of all Tuscany# These four things kee% 'i"orno going# 'eghorn is as modern as 'ucca is antiFuated and is the most cosmo%olitan of all Italian cities#

=hen Phili% III e@%elled the Moors from 8%ain Cosmo II in"ited two thousand of them to come to his ,ukedom#

,uke of 'i"orno

MontesFuieu remarked u%on this conglomerate %o%ulation and a%%ro"ed of it a%%arently as he called the founding and %o%ulating of the city the master work of the Medici dynasty#

CH*PTE+ JII 9- T;8C*- +9*,8 The "alley of the *rno as the ri"er flows through the heart of Tuscany from its source high in the hills just south of Monte !alterona is the most romantic region in all Italy# It is the borderland between the south and the north and as it was a battle&ground between Guel%h and Ghibellines so too is it the common ground where the blood of the northerner and southerner mingles to&day# *s great ri"ers go the *rno is neither grand nor magnificent though its %ro%ortions are not great its banks are lined with and artistic ruins from the old fortress at Marina di Pisa to the ancient ca%ital of the Casentino %erched so Fuaintly u%on ri"er&washed rock# but historic Po%%i its

Pisa 'eghorn and 'ucca are a trium"irate of Tuscan towns which should be "iewed and considered collecti"ely# 9ne should not be included in an itinerary without the others though indeed they ha"e little in common sa"e the memories of the %ast# 3Illustration) 9- * T;8C*- HIGH=*$ Blanche McManus .I1L6 Pisa is another of these dead cities of Euro%e like Bruges 'eyden and +othenburg# 9nce ardent and li"ely in e"ery acti"ity of life its %o%ulation now has sunk into a state of lethargy# Industry and commerce and the men who should busy themsel"es therewith are in the background hidden behind a barrier of bureaucracy# Pisa a town of twenty&si@ thousand inhabitants has a tribunal of nine ci"il judges a criminal court %resided o"er by si@ty&three more and a HrollH of more than half a hundred notaries# Then there is a ser"ice of ,omains of +egistry and of Public ,ebtP besides an array of functionaries in charge of seminaries or%han asylums schools and colleges# *ll these belong to the state# Pisa sitting distant and %roud on the banks of the *rno enjoys a softer climate than most of the coast cities or interior towns of central Italy# The Tyrrhenian 8ea is but a gulf of the Mediterranean but just where it bathes the shore about the mouth of the *rno it has a higher tem%erature than most northern Mediterranean waters# Pisa is more of a sanitarium than it is a gay watering %lace howe"er# The city is in fact like its celebrated leaning tower half tottering on the brink of its gra"e# Commerce and industry are far from acti"e and its streets are half desertedP many of them are literally grass&grown and all the others are %a"ed with great flat clean&swe%t flags a delight for the automobilist whose chief e@%erience of %a"ements has been in !rance and Belgium#

The entrance to Pisa by road from the north is one of the most %leasing of that of any Italian city# !or the last half doAen kilometres the road steadily im%ro"es until it becomes one of the best as it circles around that wonderful trium"irate of architectural s%lendours the ,uomo the Ba%tistery and the tottering Torre# The grou% is one of the scenic sur%rises of Italy and the automobilist has decidedly the best o%%ortunity of e@%eriencing the emotions it awakes for he does not ha"e to come out from town >for the monuments are some ways from the centre? to see it# It is the first im%ression that the tra"eller by road gets of Pisa and of its architectural wonders as he draws suddenly u%on it from the slough&like road through which he has literally %loughed his way for many kilometres# *nd it is an im%ression he will ne"er forget# *ll along the banks of the *rno as it flows through Pisa are dotted here and there %alaces of +enaissance days# 9ne is now a de%endence of a hotelP another has been a%%ro%riated by the %ost officeP others are turned into banks and officesP but there are still some as well ordered and li"able as in their best days# The PalaAAo *gostini on the 'ungB *rno its faWade ornamented with terra cotta medallions is now a %art of the Hotel -ettuno which as well as any other of PisaBs hotels cares for the automobilist in a satisfactory manner# Its garage accommodations are abominably confined and to get in and out one takes a considerable risk of damaging his mud&guards otherwise they are satisfactory though one %ays two francs a night for them which one should not be obliged to do# Here is another %oint where !rance is su%erior to Italy as an automobile touring ground# Pisa and its %alaces are a delight from e"ery %oint of "iew though indeed none of the edifices are "ery grand or e"en lu@urious# They strike a middle course howe"er and are indicati"e of the solid comfort and content in which their original owners must ha"e li"ed at Pisa in latter +enaissance times# PisaBs Cam%o 8anto is the most famous e@am%le of gra"eyard design and building in all the world# It is calm and dignified but stu%endous and startling in its immensity# !rom Pisa to !lorence by road following the "alley of the *rno one %asses through the ty%ical Tuscan countryside although the hill&country lies either to one side or the other# It is the accessible route howe"er and the one usually claimed by the local garage and hotel kee%ers to be one of the best of Italian roads# It is and it isnBtP it all de%ends u%on the time of the year the fact that the road may recently ha"e been re%aired or not and the state of the weather# =e went o"er it in a rain which had been falling steadily for three days and found it "ery bad though unFuestionably it would ha"e been much more comfortable going in dry weather# It is the a%%ro"ed route between the two cities howe"er and unless one is going directly down the coast to +ome "ia Grosseto Pisa is the best %lace from which to commence the inland dUtour# Cascina a doAen kilometres away was the scene of a sanguinary defeat of the Pisans by the !lorentines on the feast of 8an Jittorio in .2K5 and each year the e"ent is celebrated by the inhabitants# It seems singular that a %eo%le should seek to %er%etuate the memory of a defeat but %erha%s the original inhabitants sym%athiAed with !lorence rather than with Pisa# Pontedera is a big country town at the juncture of the Era and the *rno# It has no monuments and no history worth remarking but is indicati"e of the %ros%erity of the country round about# Pontedera has no hotel with garage accommodations and if you get caught in a thunder storm as we

did

you will ha"e to grin and bear it and %lug along#

8an Miniato de Tedeschi rises on its hill to% a few kilometres farther on in an im%osing manner# It is the most cons%icuous thing in the landsca%e for a wide radius# !rancesco 8forAa was born here and !rederic II made it the seat of the Im%erial "icarage# 8an Miniato is a hill town of the "ery first rank and like others of the same class&&!iesole Colle and Jolterra&&>though its hill&to% site may ha"e nothing to do with this? it had the %ri"ilege of conferring nobility on %lebeians# The Grand ,uke of Tuscany in the nineteenth century accordingly made Han English gentleman of Hebrew e@tractionH&&so history reads&&the MarFuis of 8an Miniato# *t any rate it was %robably as good a title as is usually conferred on any one and ser"ed its soi&disant owner well enough for a crest for his note %a%er or automobile door# 9ne wonders what the gentleman took for his motto# History does not say# Em%oli is a thri"ing town engaged %rinci%ally in killing fowls and sending them to the !lorence market %laiting straw to be made into hats and co"ering chianti bottles with the same material# The Ghibellines would ha"e made Em%oli their ca%ital in .0K1 after their meeting or H%arliamentH here# It was %ro%osed too that !lorence should be raAed# 9ne man only !arinata degli ;berti o%%osed it# H-e"er H said he Hwill I consent that our belo"ed city which our enemies ha"e s%ared shall be destroyed or insulted by our own hands#H The old %alace in which the Ghibelline %arliament met still stands on the PiaAAa del Mercato# -o automobilist who Hha%%ensH on Em%oli will e"er want to see it again on account of the indignities which will be hea%ed on his automobile though the *lbergo Gui%%one run by a mother and son in most com%etent but astonishing fashion is the real thing# The food and cooking are e@traordinarily good and the house itself new and cleanly# $ou eat at a big round table with a great long&necked bottle of chianti swung on a balance in the centre# It must hold at least two gallons and without the well&swee% arrangement for %ouring out its contents you would go dry# The wine ser"ed is as good as the rest of the fare offered# The fault with Em%oliBs hotel is that there is no garage and the %ro%rietors recommend no one as com%etent to house your automobile saying you can take your choice of any one of a half a doAen renters of CstallagioC near by# They are all bad doubtlessP but the one we tried who %ermitted us to %ut the automobile in an unco"ered dirty hole with horses donkeys and %igs took&&yes took thatBs the word&&two lire for the ser"iceT If you do go to Em%oli kee% away from this ignorant un%rogressi"e indi"idual# -orth of Em%oli and Prato# on the direct road from 'ucca to !lorence are Pistoja

Pistoja is one of the daintiest of Tuscan cities but not many of the habituUs of !lorence know it at least not as they know Pisa or 8iena# Its %ast is closely intermingled with !lorentine and Italian history and indeed has been most interesting# Practically it is a little mountain city though lying Fuite at the base of the *%ennines just before they flatten out into the seashore %lain# Its country %eo%le in town for a market&day are chiefly %eo%le of the hills she%herds and the like but their s%eech is Tuscan the %urest s%eech of Italy the nearest that is left us to the s%eech of BoccaccioBs day# PistojaBs old walls and ram%arts are not the least of its crumbling glories# They are a relic of the Medicis and the arms and crests of this family are still seen car"ed o"er se"eral of the entrance gates# 9ne has

only to glance u%ward as he dri"es his automobile noisily through some mediY"al gateway to ha"e memories of the days when ca"alcades of lords and ladies %assed o"er the same road on horseback or in state coaches# *ll is %rimiti"e and unworldly at Pistoja but there is no ruinous decay though here and there a transformed or rebuilt %alace has been turned into some institution or e"en a worksho%# Prato a near neighbour of Pistoja on the road to !lorence is also a fine relic of an old walled Tuscan town# *side from this its s%ecialty is churches which are numerous curious and beautiful but e@ce%t for the o%%ortunity for "iewing them the lo"er of the romantic and %icturesFue will not want to linger long within the city# Between Em%oli and !lorence is seen at a distance the Jilla *mbrogianaP a transformation by !erdinand I of an old castle of the *rdinghelliP its towers and %innacles still well %reser"ed but the whole forming a hybrid uncouth structure# !urther on at Montelu%o there is a castle now in ruins built and fortified by the !lorentines in .012# It owes its name Montelu%o to the ado%tion of the word Clu%oC wolf by the !lorentines when they sought to destroy a neighbouring clan called the Ca%raja >Cca%raC goat?# 8igna is reached after crossing the *rno for the first time# The city walls towers and %innacles with their battlements and machicolations are still as they were when the !lorentines caused them to be erected to guard the high road leading to their city# 8uburban sights in the sha%e of modern "illas market gardens and what not announce the a%%roach to !lorence which is entered by a broad straight road the 8trada Pisana running beneath the Porta 8# !rediano# Instincti"ely one asks for the 'ungB *rno that he may get his bearings and then straightway makes for his hotel or %ension# 3Illustration) !'9+E-CE and its P*'*CE86 Hotels for the automobilist in !lorence are numerous# The *utomobile Club de !rance "ouches for the Palace Hotel where you %ay two francs and a half for garage and for the Grand Hotel de la Jille with no garage# The writer %refers the Hotel Hel"etia or better yet the Hotel Porta +ossa a genuine Italian CalbergoC %atroniAed only by such strangers as come u%on it unawares# It is "ery good reasonable in %rice and you may %ut your automobile in the CremissaC which houses the hotel omnibus for a franc a night# It is con"enient to ha"e your automobile close at hand instead of at the !# I# *# T# garage a mile or more away and the hotel itself is most central directly to the rear of the 8troAAi Palace# H=hat sort of city is this !lorenceVH asked Boniface JIII amaAed at the s%lendour of the !lorentine %rocession sent to +ome to honour his jubilee# -o one was found ready with an answer but at last a Cardinal timidly remarked H$our Holiness the City of !lorence is a good city#H H-onsense H re%lied the Po%e Hshe is far away the greatest of all citiesT 8he feeds clothes and go"erns us all#### 8he and her %eo%le are the fifth element of the uni"erse#H 9ne comes to !lorence for %ictures and %alaces and for as long or short a time as fancy suggests the automobile and the chauffeur if you ha"e one take a needed re%ose# $our automobile safely housed your chauffeur will most likely be found when wanted at the +eininghaus on the PiaAAa Jittorio&Emanuel drinking German beer and reading HPuckH or H:udgeH or HPunchH or H'e +ire#H This is a cafU with more foreign

%a%ers

one thinks

than any other on earth#

3Illustration) T9+CH&H9',E+8 P*'*OO9 8T+9OOI6 3Illustration) * '*-TE+- P*'*OO9 8T+9OOI6 3Illustration) PalaAAo Jecchio !lorence6

,own through the heart of Tuscany and through the Chianti district runs the highroad from !lorence to +ome "ia 8iena# It is a delightful itinerary whether made by road or rail and whether oneBs moti"e is the admiration and contem%lation of art or architecture or the sam%ling of the chianti en route the journey through the Tuscan *%ennines will e"er remain as a most fragrant memory# It is a lo"ely country of "ineyards and wheatfields intermingled and here and there clum%s of mulberry trees and always great yoked o@en and CcontadiniC working walking or slee%ing# These indeed are the general characteristics of all the countryside of central Italy but here they are su%erlati"ely idyllic# The sim%le life must be "ery nearly at its best here for the almost unalterable fare of bread and cheese and wine which the %easants by the roadside seem always to be munching and drinking is not conduci"e to grossness of thought or action# !rom !lorence to +ome there are three %rinci%al roads fa"oured by automobilists) that "ia 8iena and Grosseto 220 kilometresP "ia 8iena 9r"ieto and Jiterbo 20E kilometresP and "ia *reAAo Perugia and Terni 21L kilometres# They are all eFually interesting but the latter two are hilly throughout and the former in rainy weather is a%t to be bad as to surface# The towers of Tuscany might well be made the interesting subject of an entire book# 8ome of them e@isting to&day date from the Etruscans many centuries before Christ and ,ionysius wrote that the Etruscans were called Tyrrhene or Turreno because they inhabited towers or strong %laces&&CTy%eieC# In the twelfth century local laws throughout Tuscany reduced all towers to a height of fifty CbracciaC# Pisa 8iena and !lorence in the %ast had se"eral hundred towers but Jolterra and 8an Gimignano in the Jal dBElsa are the only remarkable collections still grou%ed after the original manner# H8an Gimignano delle belle TorriH is a classic %hrase and has ins%ired many cha%ters in books and many magaAine articles# 3Illustration) C8an GimignanoC6 Massimo dB*Aeglio whose o%inions most %eo%le who write books on Italy e@%loit as their own said with reason that 8an Gimignano was as e@traordinary a relic of the %ast as Pom%eii# 9f all the fifty odd towers of the city none is more im%osing than that of the PalaAAo Publico rising u% abo"e the "ery a%artment where in the thirteenth century ,ante was recei"ed when he was sent from !lorence to %arley with the Guel%hs of 8an Gimignano# 8an GimignanoBs PalaAAo del Commune dates from .0IL but its tower was an afterthought built a century later# This tower of the PalaAAo del Commune is %erha%s the best %reser"ed of all the Hbelle torriH of the city# 3Illustration) J9'TE++*6 8an Gimignano and Jolterra are much alike though the latterBs strong

%oint lies more in its fortification walls# Jolterra and its Etruscan lore and %ottery ha"e e"er been a source of %ride among Italian antiFuarians# The Etruscans of old must ha"e been %assionately fond of %ottery for so %lentifully were the en"irons of Jolterra strewn with broken %itchers that one sus%ects that each sFuare yard must ha"e contained a well# 8ome one called the Etruscans lunatics who were shut u% in Jolterra and allowed to %ursue their craAe for %ottery in %eaceP but they were harmless lunatics who de"oted themsel"es to the arts of %eace rather than those of war# The alabaster bric&]&brac trade and traffic still e@ists and %ro"ides a li"elihood for a large %art of the %o%ulation of the cityP but thousands of Tuscans many of them from Jolterra doubtless ha"e deserted their former arts for the %leasure of dragging a hand organ from street to street in 'ondon and -ew $ork and gathering soldi by ministering to the %leasures of the %o%ulace# It is easy for the su%erior %erson to sneer at the hand organ as he sneers by the way at the %honogra%h and the %ianola but dull alleys and mean streets are brightened by the music of the itinerant Italian# HIt is a "ision of the moyen&age H wrote Paul Bourget when he first saw JolterraBs Etruscan walls# High u% on its rocky %lateau sits Jolterra %rotected by its walls and gorges and ra"ines in almost im%regnable fashion# =ith this incenti"e no automobilist north or southbound should omit 8an Gimignano or Jolterra from his itinerary# They are but a few kilometres off the main road from PoggibonAi "ia Jal dBElsa between 8iena and !lorence# 9n a height o"erlooking Jolterra just o"er the +omitorio and almost within sight of 8an GimignanoBs towers Cam%anello the celebrated brigand was ca%tured a Fuarter of a century ago# He had Fuartered himself u%on an unsus%ecting though unwilling %easant as was the fashion with brigands of the time and through a Hfau@ %as H offended a youth who was in lo"e with one of his hostBs daughters# This was his undoing# The youth informed the local authoritiesP and Cam%anello led away himself by the blind %assion of lo"e fell %reci%itately into the tra% which the injured youth had hel%ed to set# Thus ended another and fewer# 9ne has sensation of being still reign or to brigandBs tale which in these days are growing fewer to go to Corsica or 8ardinia to e@%erience the held u% or to the Paris boule"ards where Ca%achesC the east end of 'ondon#

Going south from !lorence by this road the automobilist has sim%ly to ask his way "ia the H8trada %er 8ienaPH after 8iena it is the H8trada %er +omaPH and so on from one great town to another# In finding oneBs way out of town the %lan is sim%le easily remembered and efficientP there are no false and confusing directions such as one freFuently gets in !rance# $ou are either on the Jia This or That which ultimately leads to the 8trada of the same name or you are not# 8tart right and you canBt miss the road in Italy# *mong all the secondary cities of Italy none eFuals 8iena in romantic a%%eal# Its site is most %icturesFue its climate is salubrious and it has an entirely mediY"al stam% so far as the arrangement of its %alaces is concerned# 8iena %ossesses something uniFue in church architecture as might be e@%ected of a city which once contained si@ty %laces of worshi% a s%ecial %atois and women of sur%assing beauty# More than by anything else 8iena is brought to mind by the recollection of that 8aint Catherine who according to Po%e Pius II made all who a%%roached her better for her %resence# The railway and its a%%urtenances automobiles and their belongings the electric light and the telegra%h are almost the only signs of modernity

in 8iena to&day# The rest is of the middle ages and the chief characters who stand out to&day are not the %olitical %ersonages of our timeP but Bianca Ca%ello and Marie de Medici and Charles J who of all other aliens is best remembered of 8iena because of the Holbein re%roduction of his face and figure which he %resented to its citiAens#

CH*PTE+ JIII !'9+E-TI-E B*C<G+9;-,8 The hills and "alleys around !lorence offer delightful %romenades by road to the automobilist as well as to those who ha"e not the means at hand of going so far afield# * commercial enter%rise is e@%loiting them by means of a great Cchar&a&bancC or HsightseeingH automobile which detracts from the sentiments and emotions which might otherwise be e"oked and at the same time annoys the dri"er of a %ri"ate automobile for the reason that this %ublic con"eyance often crowds him on a narrow road and %re"ents his %assing# Howe"er this is better than being obstructed as in former days by a string of forty laAy cabs and their dri"ers# The round to !iesole 8an Miniato Jallombrosa and on through the Casentino of romantic memory is delightful and may be made in a day or a week as oneBs fancy dictates# The new road from !lorence to !iesole that is the road made in the mid&nineteenth century was not a %iece of jobbery or graft but was %aid for by %atents of nobility gi"en by the munici%ality of !iesole to those who furnished the means# This was in the days when a Grand ,uke ruled Tuscany and monarchical institutions found fa"our# !iesole had its 'ibro dB9ro and inscribed thereon as noble any indi"idual who would %ay the reFuired %rice# !rom fifteen hundred lire u%ward was the %rice for which marFuises counts and barons were created in !lorenceBs %atrician suburb# Coming out from !lorence by another gateway through the Porta 8an Gallo runs the !iesole highway# * landmark which can be readily %ointed out by anyone is the "illa once %ossessed by =alter 8a"age 'andor and inhabited by him for nearly thirty years# Here the famous men of letters of the middle years of the last century "isited him# Here he re"elled amid memories of Boccaccio and wrote the Pentameron# There is talk of buying the %lace and consecrating it to his memory# *ll the way from !lorence to !iesole the roads are lined with ty%ical !lorentine "illas and country houses# The Jilla at Poggio Cajano was built by 'orenAo the Magnificent who em%loyed Giuliano da 8an Gallo as his architect# In .EL/ !rancesco I died within its walls and the %rofligate Bianca Ca%ello whose history had best stay buried also died here on the following day# Their brother !erdinand was res%onsible for their taking off as they had already %re%ared to %ut him out of the way by the administration of a dose of %oison# He stood o"er them with dagger drawn and made them eat their own %oisoned "iands# The Jilla Petraja was a strong&hold of the Brunelleschi family which defended itself ably against the Pisans and the marauders of 8ir :ohn Hawkwood in .2K5 when that rollicking rascal sold his ser"ices to the enemies of !lorence# The old tower of the castle as it then was still remains but the major %ortion of the %resent structure dates from Fuite modern times#

The Jilla Medici in Careggi was built by Cosimo Pater from the designs of MicheloAAi and though no longer royal it is to&day %ractically unchanged in general outline# It too was one of the fa"ourite residences of 'orenAo the Magnificent and the concla"es of the famous Platonic *cademy were held here on the se"enth of -o"ember the anni"ersary of the date of the birth and death of Plato# Here died both Cosimo and 'orenAo the latter on the eighth of *%ril .5I0 just after his celebrated inter"iew with 8a"onarola# The 9rsi family came into %ossession of the "illa later on then Han English gentlemanH and then a certain 8ignor 8egrU# Between Careggi and !iesole and on towards Jallombrosa the "illas and %alatial country houses of the !lorentines are scattered as thickly as the lea"es of the famous "ale itself# The Jilla 8al"iati is a fine si@teenth century work with a blood&red memory of the middle ages at one time the %ro%erty of the singer Mario remembered by a former generation# The Jilla +inuccini has its grounds laid out in the style of an English formal garden and the Jilla Guadagni was once the home of the historian Bartolommeo della 8cala# 9f all the !lorentine suburban "illas none has a tithe of the %o%ular romantic interest %ossessed by the Jilla Palmieri# The Jilla Palmieri is best seen from its a%%roach by the highroad u% hill from !lorence# *t the right of the iron gate the CcancelloC runs the old road to !iesole# ;%ward still the road runs through the CcancelloC through a wind&break of trees and around to the north faWade by which one enters# The entire south side of the house is in the form of a loggia with a great wide terrace in front below which is the slo%ing garden with its %alm trees and aAaleas# 3Illustration) JI''* P*'MIE+I6 The Jilla Palmieri and its gardens are somewhat the worse for stress of timeP and the wind and the hot sun ha"e burned u% the shrubs and trees since the days when Oocchi the draughtsman made that series of formal drawings of Italian gardens that of the Jilla Palmieri among the number which are so useful to the com%ilers of books on Italian "illas and gardens# !iesole sits %roudly on its height a thousand feet abo"e the le"el of the sea# The following anonymous lines&&Hnews%a%er "erseH they may be contem%tuously described by some&&make as admirable a %en %icture of the little town as it were %ossible to re%roduce# H* little town on a far off hill&& >!iesole !iesoleT? Mossy walls that defy TimeBs will 9li"e gro"es in the sun a&thrill Thickets of roses where thrushes trill =inds that Fui"er and then are still&& !iesole !iesoleTH !iesole forms an irregular ground %lan rising and falling on the uneFual ground u%on which it is built# The long and almost unbroken line of Cyclo%ean walls towards the north is the %ortion which has suffered least from time or "iolence# The huge stones of which the Etruscan wall is com%osed are somewhat irregular in sha%e and uneFual in siAe seldom assuming a %olygonal form# This Cyclo%ean construction "aries with the geological nature of the rock em%loyed# In all the Etruscan and Pelasgic towns it is found that when sandstone was used the form of the stones has been that of the %arallelo%i%edon or nearly so as at !iesole and CortonaP whereas when limestone was the subjacent rock the %olygonal

construction alone is found as at Cosa and 8egni# This same obser"ation will be found to a%%ly to e"ery %art of the world and in a marked degree to the Cyclo%ean constructions of Greece and *sia Minor and e"en to the far&distant edifices raised by the Peru"ian Incas# 8ometimes the %ieces of rock are do"etailed into each otherP others stand joint abo"e jointP but howe"er %laced the face or outward front is %erfectly smooth# -o %rojection or work ad"ancing beyond the line of the wall a%%ears in the remains of the original structure# 3Illustration) !IE89'E6 !iesole is a built&u% fabric in all its %artsP its foundation is architecture and its churches %alaces and "illas are mere %rotuberances e@tending out from a concrete whole# !iesole is one of the most remarkably built towns abo"e ground# !iesoleBs great charm lies in its surrounding and ingredient elementsP in the %alaces and "illas of the hillto%s always in %lain "iew and in its massi"e construction of walls rather than in its s%ecific monuments though indeed its ,uomo %ossesses a crudity and rudeness of constructi"e and decorati"e elements which marks it as a distinct if barbarous +omanesFue style# The "iews from !iesoleBs height are %eculiarly fine# 9n the north is the "alley of the Mugello and just below is the Jilla of 8ci%ione *mmirato the !lorentine historian# Towards the south the "iew commands the central Jal dB*rno from its eastern e@tremity to the gorge of the Gonfolina by which it communicates with the Jal dB*rno di 8otto with !lorence as the main object in the rich landsca%e below# The following is a mediY"al %oint of "iew as concei"ed by a +enaissance historian# He wrote it of 'orenAo the Magnificent but the emotions it describes may as well become the %ossession of %lebeian tra"ellers of to&day# H'orenAo e"er retained a %redilection for his country house just below !iesole and the terrace still remains which was his fa"ourite walk# Pleasant gardens and walks bordered by cy%resses add to the beauty of the s%ot from which a s%lendid "iew of !lorence encircled by its am%hitheatre of mountains is obtained#H HIn a "illa o"erhanging the towers of !lorence on the stee% slo%es of that lofty hill crowned by the mother city the ancient !iesole in gardens which Tully might ha"e en"ied with !icino 'andino and Politian at his side he delighted his hours of leisure with the beautiful "isions of Platonic %hiloso%hy for which the summer stillness of an Italian sky a%%ears the most congenial accom%animent#H This is the twentieth century but those of mood and mind may e@%erience the same as did 'orenAo di Medici four hundred years ago# The hills and "ales the *rno and the City of the 'ily with its domes and towers ha"e little changed during the many %assing years# 9ut from !lorence by the Porta alla Croce runs the road to Jallombrosa which may be reached also from !iesole without entering !lorence by taking the road leading o"er the Ponte a Mensola# :ust beyond Pontassie"e some twenty kilometres distant the road to Jallombrosa lea"es the *reAAo highway and %lunges boldly into the heart of the *%ennines# 9f Jallombrosa 'amartine said) H*bbey monumental the Grande Chartreuse of Italy built on the summit of the *%ennines behind a rocky ram%art %rotected by %reci%ices at e"ery turn by torrents of rushing water and by dark dank forests of fir&%ines#H The descri%tion is good to&day

and while the ways of access are many including e"en a CfuniculaireC from Pontassie"e to Jallombrosa to a%%roach the sainted %ile in the true and re"erend s%irit of the %ilgrim one should make his way by the winding mountain road&&e"en if he has to walk# Indeed walking is the way to do itP the horses hereabouts are more inert than "igorousP they mislead oneP they start out bra"ely but if they donBt fall by the wayside they come home lim%ing# But for the fact that the road u%hill to Jallombrosa is none too good as to surface and the turns are many and shar% it is accessible enough by automobile# Jarious granges hermitages and con"ent walls are %assed en route# *t 8antBEllero was a Benedictine nunnery belonging to the monks of Jallombrosa in the thirteenth century and in its donjon tower&&a Fueer adjunct for a nunnery by the way&&a band of fleeing Ghibellines were besieged by a horde of Guel%hs in .0K/# ,omini and 8altino mark "arious stages in the ascent from the "alley# ;% to this latter %oint indeed one may come by the CfuniculaireC but that is not the true %ilgrim way# ;% to within a cou%le of kilometres of the summit chestnuts oaks and beech are seen justifying MiltonBs simile the accuracy of which has been called in Fuestion on the ground that the forest consisted entirely of fir# HThick as autumnal lea"es that strew the brooks In Jallombrosa where the Etrurian shades High o"erarchBd embower#H !our miles beyond Paterno after %assing through a fine forest of %ines the tra"eller arri"es at the 8antuario of Jallombrosa) HCosi fu nominata una +icca e bella ne men E cortese a chiunFue &&C9rl# !ur# can# badia religiosa "i "enia#H 00 st# 2K#C

*mong the remarkable men who ha"e been monks of Jallombrosa was Guido *retino who was a member of this house when he first became known as a writer u%on music >about *# ,# .101?# *fter ha"ing "isited +ome twice u%on the in"itation of two succeeding %o%es he was %re"ailed u%on by the abbot of a monastery at !errara to settle there# 8ome writers ha"e ascribed to this Guido the in"ention of counter%oint which is scarcely less absurd than ascribing the in"ention of a language to any indi"idual# Howe"er it is %retty certain that he was the first %erson to use or to recommend the use of HlinesH and Hs%acesH for musical notation# High abo"e the con"ent of Jallombrosa itself rises Il Paradisino >. 12K metres? with a small hermitage while Monte 8ecchieta is higher still . 55/ metres# Jallombrosa its con"ent and its hermitages are in the midst of solitude as indeed a retreat %ious or otherwise should be# If only some of us who are more worldly than a monk would go into a retreat occasionally and commune with solitude awhile what a clarifying of ideas one would e@%erienceT Back of Jallombrosa and the Paradisino the u%%er "alley of the *rno circles around through *reAAo Bibbiena and Po%%i and rises just under the brow of Monte !alterona which in its "ery u%%ermost reaches forms a %art of the Casentino# !rom Pontassie"e where one branches off for Jallombrosa one may descend on *reAAo either by Po%%i&Bibbiena or Monte"archi say se"enty kilometres either way#

The Casentino and the Jalley of the *rno form one of the most romantically uns%oiled tracts in Italy although modern ci"iliAation is crowding in on all sides# The memories of 8aint !rancis 'a Jerna 8aint +omuald the Camaldoli and ,ante and the great array of +enaissance s%lendours of its towns and "illages will li"e for e"er# Here took %lace some of the se"erest conflicts in the ci"il wars of the Guel%hs and Ghibellines and in numerous ruins of castles and hill&forts are retained memorials of the many struggles# :ust where the *rno tra"erses the %lain of Cam%aldino was the scene of a celebrated battle on the ..th of :une .0LI# The *retines who formed the chief %ortion of the Ghibelline %arty were routed with a loss of . /11 men killed and 0 111 taken %risoners# *mong the former was the celebrated Guglielmino ;bertini Bisho% of *reAAo who fell fighting des%erately in the thickest of the fray ha"ing rallied his troo%s u%on the bridge at Po%%i half a mile further on# ,ante was %resent at this battle being then twenty&four years old and ser"ing in the Guel%h ca"alry# The Casentino is the most o%ulent district in all the region of the *%ennines# 8i@ centuries ago the Counts Palatine of Tuscany held itP then came the Po%es and then ,ante and his followers# The chronicles of the Casentino are most fascinating reading %articularly those concerned with the Counts of Guidi# Guidoguerra IJ Count Palatine of Tuscany in the early thirteenth century was a sort of +obin Hood e@ce%t that he was not an outlaw# He made a road near the home of the monks of Camaldoli and intruded armed men into their solitude Hand worse still %lay actors and women H where all women had been forbidden) moreo"er he had all the o@en of the monks dri"en off# He %layed %ranks on the minstrels and buffoons who came to his %alace# 9ne minstrel named Malanotte he com%elled to s%end a bad night on the roofto% in the snowP another Maldecor%o had to lie and siAAle between two firesP while a third *bbas he tonsured by %ulling out his hair# 'iterally translated Casentino means Hthe "alley enclosed#H It is a most romantic region and the %raises of its mountain walls and chestnut woods ha"e been sung by all sojourners there e"er since ,ante set the fashion# The life of the %easant of the Casentino to&day is much the same as in ,anteBs time and his %leasures and sorrows are e@%ressed in much the same manner as of old# 8trange folksongs and dances strange dramas of courtshi% and strange religious ceremonies all find %lace here in this uns%oiled little forest tract between !lorence and *reAAoP along whose silent %aths one may wander for hours and come across no one but a few contented charcoal&burners who know nothing beyond their own woods# 9n the lower le"els the highway leading from !lorence to Perugia and !oligno rolls along as silent as it was in mediY"al times# It is by no means a dull monotonous road though containing fewer historic %laces than the road by 8iena or Jiterbo# It is an alternati"e route from north to southP and the most direct one into the heart of ;mbria# 9n arri"ing from !lorence by the highroad one %asses through the long main street of Monte"archi threading his way carefully to a"oid if %ossible the dogs and ducks which run riot e"erywhere# * great fertile %lain stretches out on each side of the *rno the railway sounding the only modern note to be heard sa"e the honkT honkT >the !rench say CcoinC CcoinC which is better? of an occasional

%assing automobile# ;% and down the hills o@ teams %lough furrows as straight as on the le"el and the general "iew is %astoral until one strikes the forests neighbouring u%on *reAAo eighty kilometres from !lorence# Here all is sa"age and %rime"al# Here was many a brigandBs haunt in the old days but the Go"ernment has wi%ed out the ro"ing bandittiP and to&day the greatest discomfort which would result from a hold&u% would be a demand for a cigar or a bo@ of matches# *t PalaAAaccio a mere hamlet en route was the hiding %lace of the once notorious brigand 8%adolinoP a sort of stage hero who affected to rob the rich for the benefit of the %oor&&a kind of socialism which was ne"er successful# +obin Hood tried it so did Macaire Gas%ard de Besse and +obert le ,iable and they all came to timely ca%ture# 8%adolino one day sto%%ed a carriage near PalaAAaccio cut the throats of its occu%ants and ga"e their gold to a %oor miller Giacomo by name who wanted ninety CfrancesconiC to %ay his rent# This was the last cunning trick of 8%adolino for he was soon ca%tured and hung at the Porta 8anta Croce at !lorence as a warning to his kind# -ot e"ery hurried tra"eller who flies by e@%ress train from !lorence to +ome %uts foot to earth and makes acFuaintance with *reAAo# The automobilist does better he sto%s here for one reason or another and he sees things and learns things hitherto unknown to him# *reAAo should not be omitted from the itinerary of any %ilgrim to Italy# It was one of the twel"e cities of the Etruscan federation and made %eace with +ome in 2.1 *# ,# and for e"er remained its ally# The !laminian =ay built by the Consul !laminius in .L/ B# C# between *retium >*reAAo? and Bononia >Bologna? is still traceable in the neighbourhood# Petrarch is *reAAoBs deity and his birth%lace is to be found to&day on the Jia del 9rto# 9n the occasion of the great f\te gi"en in .I15 in honour of the si@ hundredth anni"ersary of his birth the munici%ality made this %lace a historic monument# Jasari who as a biogra%her has been "ery useful to makers of books on art was also born at *reAAo in .E.0# His house is a landmark# 'ocal guides miscall it a %alace but in reality it is a "ery humble edificeP not at all %alatial# The PalaAAo Pretoria at *reAAo has one of the most biAarre faWades e@tant albeit its decorati"e and cy%her %anels add no great architectural beauty# *reAAoBs cathedral is about the saddest ugliest religious edifice in Italy# =ithin is the tomb of Po%e Gregory M# Po%%i and Bibbiena are the two chief towns of the u%%er "alley# Each is blissfully unaware of the world that has gone before and has little in common with the life of to&day sa"e such intimacy as is brought by the railroad train as it screeches along in the "alley between them half a doAen times a day# Po%%i sits on a high table rock its feet washed by the flowing *rno# The town itself is dead or slee%ingP but most of its houses are frankly modern in that they are well ke%t and freshly %ainted or whitewashed# The only old building in Po%%i not in ruins is its castle occu%ying the highest %art of the rockP a %lace of some strength before the use of

hea"y guns# It was built by 'a%o in .021 and bears a family resemblance to the PalaAAo Jecchio at !lorence# The court&yard contains some curious architecture and a staircase celebrated for the skill shown in its construction# It resembles that in the Bargello at !lorence and leads to a cha%el containing frescoes which according to Jasari are by 8%inello *retino# Po%%i is a good %oint from which to e@%lore the western slo%es of Jallombrosa or Monte 8ecchieta# The landlord and the local guides will lead one u% through the celebrated gro"es at a fi@ed %rice Htutto com%reso H and if you are liberal with your ti% will o%en a bottle of H"ino santoH for you# Could hos%itality and fair dealing go furtherV Bibbiena the nati"e town of !rancesco Berni and of the Cardinal Bibbiena who was the %atron of +a%hael has many of the characteristics of Po%%i in %oint of site and surroundings# It is the %oint of de%arture for the con"ent of 'a Jerna built by 8t# !rancis of *ssisi in .0.EP situated high on a shoulder of rugged rock# The highest %oint of the mountain on which it stands is called 'a Penna the HrockH or Hdi"ideH between the "alleys of the *rno and the Tiber# To the eastward are seen ;mbria and the mountains of PerugiaP on the west the "alley of the Casentino and the chain of the Prato MagnoP to the northward is the source of the *rno and to the northeast that of the Tiber# To the east just where the Casentino by means of the cross road connecting with the Jia Nmilia held its line of communication with the *driatic is the +omagna a district where feudal strife and warfare were ram%ant throughout the middle ages# !rom its story it would seem as though the region ne"er had a tranFuil moment# The chain of little towns of the +omagna is full of sou"enirs of the days when seigneuries were car"ed out of %ontifical lands by the sword of some rebel who flaunted the tem%oral %ower of the church# These were strictly %ersonal %ro%erties and their owners owed territorial allegiance to the Po%e no more than they did to the descendants of the Em%erors# +e@ +omanorum as a doctrine was dead for e"er# Guel%h and Ghibelline held these little seigneuries turn by turn and from the *driatic to the Gulf of 8%eAia there was almost constant warfare sometimes %etty sometimes great# It was warfare too between families between %eo%le of the same race the most bloody disastrous and sad of all warfare#

CH*PTE+ IM THE +9*, T9 +9ME 8iena crowning its %reci%itous hillside stands to&day unchanged from what it was in the days of the Trium"irate# Church tower and castle wall jut out into a "ague mystery of silhouetted outline whether "iewed by daylight or moonlight# The great gates of the ram%arts still guard the a%%roach on all sides and the Porta Camollia of to&day is the same through which the sons of +emus entered when fleeing from their scheming ;ncle +omulus# 8ienaBs PiaAAa Jittorio Emanuele is a landmark# ,ante called it Ha great sFuare where men li"e gloriously free H though then it was sim%ly CtheC PiaAAaP and the %icture is true to&day in a different sense# In former days it was a bloody Hmis&en&scXneH for intrigue and jealousyP but to&day sim%ly the centre of the life and mo"ement of a %ros%erous

thri"ing

though less romantic city of thirty thousand souls# 8ienaC6

3Illustration) CPalaAAo della 8ignoria

This great PiaAAa is rounded off by a halo of magnificent feudal %alaces whose "ery names are romantic# *ll about 8ienaBs sFuares and street corners are innumerable gurgling s%outing fountains many of them artistically and monumentally beautiful and a few e"en dating from the glorious days of old# ,ante sang of 8ienaBs famous fountains which in truth form a gala@y of artistic accessories of life hardly to be eFualled in any other city of 8ienaBs class# 'ea"ing that Hnoble e@tra"agance in marble H 8ienaBs Cathedral and its churches Fuite a%art the city ranks as one of the most interesting tourist %oints of Italy# 8iena has still left a relic of mediY"alism in the re"i"al of its ancient horse racing festa when its great PiaAAa Jittorio Emanuele is built u% and barricaded like a circus of +oman times# Chariot races gladiatorial combats and bull fights all had their %artisans among munici%alities but 8ienaBs choice was horse racing# *nd each year HIl Palio H on :uly the 0nd and on *ugust the .Kth becomes a great %o%ular amusement of the 8ienese# It is most interesting and still %icturesFuely mediY"al in costuming and settingP and is a ci"ic function and f\te a great deal more artistically done&&as goes without saying&&than the Guy !awkes celebrations of 'ondon or the fourth of :uly HhorriblesH in *merica# !or the thoroughly genuine and artistic %ageant *nglo 8a@ons ha"e to go to Italy# There is nothing to be learned from the Mardi&Gras celebrations of Paris nor the carni"als of the Cote dB*Aur# 8ome one has said that 8iena sits on the border land between idyllic Tuscany and the great central Italian %lain# 'iterally this is so# It marks the distinction between the gra"e and the gay so far as manners and customs and conditions of life go# 9n the north are the charming smiling hills and "ales bright with "illas gro"es and "inesP whilst to the south towards +ome and the Cam%agna all is of an austerity of %resent day fact and %ast tradition# Indeed the landsca%e would be stern and re%ellent were it not %icturesFuely sa"age# 8traight runs the highroad to +ome "ia Jiterbo or makes a dUtour "ia Monte%ulciano and 9r"ieto# *t *sinalunga Garibaldi was arrested by go"ernment s%ies by the order of the monarch to whom he had %resented the so"ereignty of -a%les# 8uch is official ingratitude ofttimesT The town itself is unworthy of remark sa"e for that incident of history# By the direct road the mountains of 9r"ieto and Monte%ulciano rise grimly to the left# The towns bearing the same names are charming enough from the artistic %oint of "iew but are not usually reckoned tourist sights# Monte%ulciano is commonly thought of slight interest but it is the "ery ideal of an uns%oiled mediY"al town with a half doAen %alaAAo faWades which might make the name and fame of some modern scene %ainter if he would co%y them# Chiusi on the direct road lies embedded in a circle of hills and surrounded by orange gro"es# It is nothing more nor less than a glorified gra"eyard but is uniFue in its class# 'ars Porsena of Clusium comes down to us as a memory of school&time days and for that reason if no other we consider it our duty to "isit the Etruscan tombs of Clusium the modern Chiusi#

There are three distinct tiers or shel"es of these ancient tombs and interesting enough they are to all but only the antiFuary will ha"e any real %assion for them so most of us are glad enough to s%in our way by road another fifty odd kilometres to 9r"ieto# !our kilometres of a %reci%itous hill climb leads from the lower road u% into 9r"ieto Aig&Aagging all the way# It is the same bit of roadway u% which the Po%es fled in the middle ages when hard %ressed by their enemies# Clement JII one of the unha%%y Medici fled here after the sinning ConnUtable Bourbon attem%ted the sacking of +omeP and a sheltering stronghold he found it# This Pa%al city of refuge is to&day a more or less sFualid %lace with here and there a note of something more s%lendid# 9n the whole 9r"ietoBs charm is not so much in the grandeur of its monuments as in their character# The cathedral is reckoned one of the great Gothic shrines of Italy and that indeed is the chief reason for most of the tourist tra"el# The few mediY"al %alaces that 9r"ieto %ossesses are "ery s%lendid though they one and all suffer from their cram%ed surroundings# 3Illustration) C9r"ietoC6 The Hotel Belle *rti to&day with a garage for automobiles was the ancient PalaAAo BisenAi# It had a re%utation among tra"ellers of a decade or a generation ago of being a broken&down %alace and a worse hotel# If one wants to dwell in marble halls and slee% where royal heads ha"e sle%t one can do all this at 9r"ieto for eight or nine lire a day# 9ne enters Jiterbo forty&se"en kilometres from 9r"ieto by the highroad to +ome# The little town %reser"es much of its mediY"al characteristics to&day though indeed it is a %rogressi"e busy %lace of something like twenty thousand souls most of whom a%%ear to be engaged in the wine industry# 9n the PiaAAa !ontana is a magnificent Gothic fountain dating from the thirteenth century and the Munici%io on the PiaAAa del Plebiscito is of a contem%orary %eriod with a fine fountained court&yard# In the en"irons of Jiterbo is a s%lendid %alace built by Jignola for the Cardinal !arnese ne%hew of the Po%e Paul III# In form it was a great sFuare mass with its angles reinforced by sFuare towers with a circular court within surrounded by an arcade by which one entered the "arious a%artments# It was %erha%s the most originally concei"ed work of its %articular e%och of +enaissance timesP and all the master minds and hands of the builders of the day seem to ha"e had more or less to do with it# These Italians of the +enaissance were in"entors of nothingP but their daring and ingenuity in combining ideas taken bodily from those of antiFuity made more successful and ha%%y combinations than those of the architects of to&day who build theatres after the models of Jenetian %alaces and add a Moorish minaretP or railway stations on the %lan of the Parthenon and %ut a cam%anile in the middle like the chimney of a blast furnace# The Italian cam%anile was a bell&tower to be sure but it had nothing in common with the minaret of the east nor the church s%ire of the Gothic builder in northern climes# !rom 8iena the coast road to +ome %ractically the same distance as the inland route is one of sur%rising contrast# It a%%roaches the coast at Grosseto se"enty kilometres from 8iena and thence all the way to +ome skirts the la%%ing wa"es of the Tyrrhenian 8ea# 9ff shore is Elba with its -a%oleonic memories and the Island of Monte Cristo which is considered usually a myth but which e@ists in the real to&day as it did when ,umas romanced >sic? about it# * long %ull of a hundred kilometres o"er a flat country half land half water brings one to

Ci"ita&Jecchia

eighty kilometres from the Eternal City itself#

Ci"ita&Jecchia is a watering&%lace without historical interest where the +omans come to make a seaside holiday# Hotels of all ranks are here and garage accommodations as well# The Italian mail boats for 8ardinia lea"e daily if one is inclined to make a side tri% to that land of brigandage and the e"il&eye which are re%uted a little worse than the Corsican or 8icilian "arieties# 9ne enters the heart of +ome by the Porta Ca"alleggeri and crosses the Ponte 8# *ngelo to get his bearings# The hotels of +ome are like those of !lorence# 9ne must hunt his abiding %lace out for himself according to his likes and dislikes# The Grand&Hotel and the Hotel de la Miner"e are "ouched for by the Touring Club and the former has garage accommodation# *t either of these modern establishments you get the fare of Paris Jienna 'ondon and -ew $ork and "ery little that is Italian# $ou may e"en bathe in %orcelain tubs installed by a 'ondon %lumber and drink cocktails mi@ed by an e@%ert from Broadway# This makes one long for the days when a former generation ate in a famous eating house which stood at the southeast corner of the 8Fuare 8aint Eustace# It was the resort of artists and men of letters and the C%latsC that it ser"ed were famous the world o"er# The +omansB %ride in +ome is as con"entional as it is ancient# They %rom%tly took sides when the HItaliansH entered their belo"ed city in .L/1# The %riests the higher %relates and the %a%al nobility were Hfor the Po%e H but the great middle class the common %eo%le were for the HItalians#H Traditions die hard in +ome and many an old resident will tell tales to&day of the blessings of a Pa%al Go"ernment which formerly forbade the discussion of religion or %olitics in %ublic %laces and HcontaminatingH books and news%a%ers were sto%%ed at the CfrontierC# E"en a non&smoker was considered a %rotestor against the Pa%acy because to smoke was to be a su%%orter of the Pa%al Go"ernmentBs re"enue from the tobacco trade# 3Illustration) B*+BE+I-I C9'9--* 9+8I-I B9+GI* ME,ICI8 *+M8 9! J*+I9;8 P*P*' !*MI'IE8 C9-TI P*M!I'I *',9B+*-,I-I !*+-E8E6 +ome without the CforestieriC or strangers would lose considerable of its %resent day %ros%erity# +ome e@%loits strangersP there is no doubt about thatP that is almost its sole industry# *s Henri Taine said) H+ome is nothing but a sho% which sells bric&]&brac#H He might ha"e added) Hwith a branch establishment which furnishes food and lodging#H The +oman %o%ulation as +oman is now entirely absorbed by Hthe Italian#H -o more are the CcontadiniC the %easants of the Cam%agna or the bearded mountaineers of the 8abine hills different from their brothers of Tuscany or 'ombardyP their %hysiognomies ha"e become the same# The monks and seminarists and %riests and %relates are still there but only by sufferance like oursel"es# They are no more +omans than are we# Tourists in knickerbockers awe&struck before the art treasures of the Jatican and cassocked %riests on %ilgrimage are e"erywhere in the city of the CYsars and the Po%es# The "enerable Bede was half right only in his %ro%hecy# H=hile stands the Coliseum +ome shall standP =hen falls the Coliseum +ome shall fallP *nd when +ome falls&&the worldTH

+ome is still there be#

and many of its monuments

fragmentary though they

The difference in the grade >ground le"el? of modern +ome as com%ared with that of antiFuity a difference of from si@ty to se"enty feet may still be e@%ected to gi"e u% finds to the industrious %ick and sho"el %ro%erly and intelligently handled# The archYological stratum is estimated as nine miles sFuare# +ome is a much worked&o"er field but the desecrations of the middle ages were hardly less disastrous to its HantiFuitiesH than the new munici%alityBs transformations# 8ome day the se"en hills will be le"elled and boule"ards and %ublic gardens laid out and trees %lanted in the !orumP then where will be the +ome of the CYsarsV H+ome ;nha%%y CityTH some one has said and trulyP not for its %ast but for its %resent# =hate"er the fascination of +ome may be it is not born of first im%ressionsP the new Fuarters are %ainfully new and the streets are un%icturesFue and the Tiber is dirty muddy and ill&smelling# Byron in his day thought differently for he sang) Hthe most li"ing crystal that was eBer#H 8hould he come back again he would sing another song# These elements find their %ro%er %laces in the cityBs ensemble after a time but at first they are a disa%%ointment# 3Illustration) CCastle of 8antB*ngelo +omeC6

-e@t to 8aint PeterBs the Jatican and the Colosseum the Castle of 8antB*ngelo is +omeBs most %o%ular monument# It has been a fortress for a thousand years# !or a thousand years a guard has been %osted at its gateway# 3Illustration) P*'*OO9 J*TIC*-96 The ruin of men which has %assed within its walls is too lengthy a chronicle to recount here# 'orenAo Colonna of all others shed his blood most nobly# Because he would not say H'ong li"e the 9rsini H he was led to the block a new block ready made for this s%ecial %ur%ose and ha"ing deli"ered himself in 'atin of the words) H'ord into Thy hands I commend my s%irit H ga"e u% his life in the last Fuarter of the fifteenth century Hon the last day of :une when the %eo%le of +ome were celebrating the festi"ity of the deca%itation of 8aint Paul the *%ostle#H This was four centuries and more ago but the circling walls and the dull dam% corridors of the Castel 8antB*ngelo still echo the terror and suffering which formerly went on within them# It is the "ery e%itome of the character of the structure# Its architecture and its history are in grim accord# =ithin the great round tower of 8antB*ngelo was im%risoned the unnatural Catherine 8forAa while the Borgias were besieging her city# The Castel of 8antB*ngelo and the bridge of the same name are so called in honour of an *ngel who descended before 8aint Gregory the Great and sa"ed +ome from a %est which threatened to decimate it# Close to the bridge of 8antB*ngelo just o%%osite -onaBs Tower once stood the H'ion Inn H ke%t by the lo"ely JanoAAa de Catanei the mother of CYsar Gandia and 'ucreAia Borgia# 8he was an inn&kee%er of re%ute according to history and her career was most momentus# The automobilist wonders if this inn were not a %ur"eyor of good cheer as satisfactory as the great establishments with !rench English and German names which cater for tourists to&day# 3Illustration) CThe Borgia =indow +omeC6

The Jilla Medici just within the walls and the Jilla Borghese just without form a grou% which tourists usually CdoC as a morningBs sight seeing# They do too muchT *nyway one doesnBt need to take his automobile from its garage for the e@cursion so these classic "illas are only mentioned here# 3Illustration) Pa%al *rms of Caesar Borgia6 To describe and illustrate the Jilla Medici one must ha"e the magic %en of a Jirgil and the %alette of a Poussin and a Claude 'orrain# In antiFuity the site was known as the Collis Hortorum the Hillside of Gardens# 'ucullus Prince of Jolu%tuousness and Messaline the Em%ress of debauch there celebrated their f\tes of lu@ury and %assion and it became in time e"en a %icnic ground for holiday making +omans# 3Illustration) *rms of a Medicis Prelate6 The Jilla Medici was originally built for Cardinal +icci in .E51 but by the end of the century had come into the hands of Cardinal *lessandro di Medici# The Tuscan Grand ,ukes owned it a century or so later on and it was finally sold to the !rench to house the academy of arts founded at +ome by 'ouis MJ# 3Illustration) CJilla Medici +omeC6

It is useless for a modern writer to attem%t to describe the Fuiet charm of the surroundings of the Jilla Borghese the nearest of the great country houses to the centre of +ome# Many ha"e tried to do so but few ha"e succeeded# Better far that one should %oint the way thither make a %ersonal obser"ation or two and then onward to Ti"oli *lbano or !rascati# 9ne word on the !orum ere lea"ing# -ot e"en the most restless automobilist neglects a stroll about the !orum no matter how often he may ha"e been here before though its %alaces of antiFuity ha"e little more than their outline foundations to tell their story to&day# Commendatore Boni who has charge of the e@ca"ations brought to light recently a curiously inscribed stone tablet which owing to the archaic 'atin it contained he found it im%ossible to read# * number of learned 'atinists and archYologists soon gathered about him# This is what they read) Q;E 8T*E'* JI * ,EG'I* 8I-I =hile some declared that HCFueCH was an enclitic conjunction and that therefore the inscri%tion must be incom%lete others asserted that the word was an abbre"iation of HCFueoC H and that the inscri%tion might be read) HI am able to gaAe u%on the star without %ain#H =hile the dis%ute was on a %easant of the Cam%agna %assed by# He a%%roached and asked the reason of the crowd# He was told and gaAing at the inscri%tion for se"eral minutes he read slowly) HQuesta e la "ia degli asiniH >HThis is the way of asses#H?# *nd the 'atinists the archYologists and the other sa"ants cre%t Fuietly away while the Commendatore in good modern Tuscan made some remarks un%rintable and untranslatable#

CH*PTE+ M THE C*MP*G-* *-, BE$9-, The en"irons of +ome&&those %arts not gi"en o"er to fo@&hunting and horse&racing im%ortations which ha"e been absorbed by the latter day +oman from the CforestieriC&&still retain most of their characteristics of historic times# The Cam%agna is still the Cam%agnaP the *lban Hills are still classic ground and Ti"oli and !rascati&&in s%ite of the modernisms which ha"e here and there cre%t in&&are still the romantic Ti"oli and !rascati of the ages long gone by# The surrounding hills of +ome are really what gi"e it its charm# The city is strong in contrast from e"ery as%ect modernity nudging and crowding antiFuity# +ome itself is not lo"ely only su%erbly and majestically o"er%owering in its com%le@ity# The +ome of romantic times went as far afield as 9tricoli 9stia Ti"oli and *lbano and on the east these out%osts were further encircled by a girdle of "illas gardens and "ineyards too numerous to %lot on any ma% that was e"er made# 8uch is the charm of +omeP not its ruined tem%les fountains and statues aloneP nor yet its great churches and %alaces and abo"e all not the "iew of the Colosseum lit u% by coloured fires but +ome the city and the Cam%agna# There is no Fuestion that the +oman Cam%agna is a sad dreary land without a %arallel in the well %o%ulated centres of Euro%e# 8aid Chateaubriand) HIt %ossesses a silence and solitude so "ast that e"en the echoes of the tumults of the %ast enacted u%on its soil are lost in the "ery e@%ansi"eness of the flat marshy %lain#H BalAac too wrote in the same "ein) HImagine something of the desolation of the country of Tyre and Babylon and you will ha"e a %icture of the sadness and lonesomeness of this "ast wide thinly %o%ulated region#H The similes of BalAac and of Chateaubriand hold good to&day# 'ong horned cattle and crows are the chief li"ing things&&and mosFuitoes# 9ne canBt forget the mosFuitoes# Here and there a jagged stum% of a %ier of a +oman aFueduct %ushes u% through the herb&grown soil %erha%s e"en an arch or two or three or fi"eP but hardly a tangible remembrance of the work of the hand of man is left to&day to indicate the myriads of comers and goers who once %assed o"er its famous *%%ian =ay# The *%%ian =ay is still there loose ended fragments joined u% here and there with a modern roadway which has become its successor and there is a "ery a%%reciable traffic such as it is on the main lines of roadway north and southP but east and west and round about sa"e for a few sFualid huts and dro"es of cattle shee% and goats a wayside inn a fountain beneath a cy%ress and a few slee%y dusty hamlets and "illages there is nothing to indicate a %rogressi"e modern e@istence# *ll is as dead and dull as it was when +ome first decayed# 9ut from +ome a cou%le of leagues on the Jia Cam%agna on the right bank of the Tiber one comes to the sad relic of 'a Magliana the hunting lodge of the +enaissance Po%es# The e"olution of the name of this country house comes from a corru%tion of the %atronymic of the original owners of the land the family of Manlian who were farmers in 2I1 B# C#

The road out from +ome by the crumbling Circus Ma@entius the lone fragments of *Fueduct and the moss&grown tomb of Cecilia Metellag runs for a doAen kilometres at a dead le"el to rise in the ne@t doAen or so to a height of four hundred and si@ty odd metres just beyond *lbano when it descends and then rises again to Jelletri ultimately to flatten out and continue along %ractically at sea&le"el all the way to Cassino a hundred and ninety kilometres from +ome# The classification gi"en to this road by the Touring Club Italiano is Hmediocre e %ol"eroso H and one need not be a dee% student of the language to e"ol"e its meaning# * little farther away but still within sight of the Eternal City just before coming to *lbano is Castel Gandolfo a Pa%al stronghold since the middle ages# ;rban JIII built a Pa%al %alace here and the seigniorial ch[teau since transformed into a con"ent was a sort of summer habitation of the Po%es# The status of the little city of two thousand souls is %eculiar# It enjoys e@tra&territorial rights which were granted to the %a%al %owers by the new order of things which came into being in .L/.# * Aone of lo"eliness surrounds the site which o"erlooks on one side the daAAling little *lbano 'ake and on the other stretches off across the Cam%agna to the shores of the Mediterranean# :ust beyond Castel Gandolfo is *lbano still showing "estiges of the city of ,omitian which in turn was built u%on the ruins of that of Pom%ey# *lbanoBs fortifications rank as the most %erfect e@am%les of their class in all Italy# They tell a story of many e%ochsP they are all massi"e and are largely built in rough %olygonal masonry# Towers turrets and tem%les are all here at *lbano# 8till the town is not ranked as one of the tourist sights# The *lbano 'ake is another one of those mysterious bodies of water without source or outlet# It occu%ies the crater of an e@tinct "olcano so some day it may disa%%ear as Fuickly as it came# Concerning its origin the following local legend is here related) H=here the lake now lies there stood once a great city# Here when :esus Christ came to Italy he begged alms# -one took com%assion on Him but an old woman who ga"e Him some meal# He then bade her lea"e the city) she obeyedP the city instantly sank and the lake rose in its %lace#H This legend is %robably founded on some "ague recollection or tradition of the fall of the city of Jeii which was so flourishing a state at the time of the foundation of +ome and %ossessed so many attractions that it became a Fuestion whether +ome itself should not be abandoned for Jeii# The lake of *lbano is intimately connected with the siege of Jeii and no %lace has more "i"id memories of ancient +oman history# Here o"erlooking the lake once rose *lba 'onga the mother city of +ome built by *scanius the son of Nneas who named it after the white sow which ga"e birth to the %rodigious number of thirty young# 9n the shore of the lake o%%osite *lbano is +occa di Pa%a# The con"ent of the Passionist !athers at +occa di Pa%a >the city itself being the one&time residence of the *nti&%o%e :ohn? was built by Cardinal $ork the last of the 8tuarts of materials taken from an ancient tem%le on the shores of 'ake *lbano# +occa di Pa%a is a most %icturesFue little hillto% "illage# Its sugar&loaf cone is crowned with an old castle of the Colonnas which remained their %ossession until .5L/ when the 9rsini in their turn took %ossession# !rascati on the Jia Tusculum about o%%osite Castel Gandolfo as this

historic roadway %arallels that of Claudius *%%ius was +omeBs %atrician suburb and to&day is the resort of nine&tenths of the e@cursionists out from +ome for a day or an afternoon# !rascati the "illa suburb and Ti"oli alike de%end u%on their syl"an charms to set off the beauties of their %alaces and "illas# It was e"er the custom among the %rincely Italian families&&the !arnese the Borghese and the Medici&&to la"ish their wealth on the laying out of the grounds Fuite as much as on the building of their %alaces# !rascatiBs "illas and %alaces cannot be catalogued here# 9ne and all are the outgrowth of an ancient +oman %leasure house of the ninth century and followed after as a natural course of e"ents the chief attraction of the %lace being the wild&wood site >CfrascheC? really a country faubourg of +ome itself# The Po%es and Cardinals fa"oured the s%ot for their country houses and the nobles followed in their train# The chief of !rascatiBs architectural glories are the Jilla Conti its fountains and its gardensP the Jilla *ldobrandini of the Cardinal of that name the ne%hew of Po%e Clement JIIIP and the Jilla Tusculana or Jilla +uffinella of the si@teenth century but afterwards the %ro%erty of 'ucien Bona%arte and the scene of one of =ashington Ir"ingBs little known sketches HThe *d"enture of an *rtist#H The Jilla !alconieri at !rascati built by the Cardinal +uffini in the si@teenth century formerly belonged to a long line of Counts and Cardinals but the hand of the German which is gras%ing e"erything in sight in all Fuarters of the globe that other %eo%le by lack of foresight do not seem to care for has acFuired it as a home for Hcon"alescentH German artists# Perha%s the omnific German Em%eror seeks to ri"al the functions of the Jilla Medici with his Jilla !alconieri# He calls it a hos%ital but it has studios lecture rooms and what not# =hat it all means no one seems to know# Minor "illas are found dotted all o"er !rascatiBs hills with charming "istas o%ening out here and there in sur%rising manner# -ot all are magnificently grand few are su%erlati"ely e@cellent according to the highest Ysthetic standards but all are of the satisfying gratifying Fuality that the layman will e"er acce%t as something better than his own conce%tions would lead u% to# That is the chief %leasure of contem%lation after all# *bo"e !rascati itself lies Tusculum founded says tradition by a son of ;lysses the birth%lace of Cato and a one time residence of Cicero# This would seem enough fame for any small town hardly im%ortant enough to ha"e its name marked on the ma% and certainly not noted down in many of the itineraries for automobile tourists which cross Italy in e"ery direction# More than this Tusculum has the ruins of an ancient castle one day belonging to a race of fire&eating Fuarrelsome counts who leagued themsel"es with any one who had a cause just or unjust for which to fight# !ighting was their trade but !rederic I in ..K/ beat them at their own game and raAed their castle and its town of allies huddled about its walls# That is why Tusculum has not become a tourist resort to&day but the ruin is still there and one can imagine a different destiny had fate or a stronger hand had full sway# !rom *lbano another cross road "ia Jelletri to Jalmontone leads in twenty odd kilometres to Palestrina whence one may continue his way to 8ubiaco and thence to Ti"oli and enter +ome again "ia the Porta 8an 'orenAo ha"ing made a round of %erha%s a hundred and fifty kilometres of as "aried a stretch of Italian roadway as could %ossibly be found# The gamut of scenic and architectural joys runs all the way from those of the sea le"el Cam%agna and its monumental remains to the "erdure and romance of the *lban and 8abine Hills and the s%lendours of the memories of the Jilla of Hadrian at Ti"oli#

'ying well back from the *lban hills is Palestrina the greatest stronghold of the Colonnas and where a branch of the family still maintains a country house# The cradle of this great family which ga"e so many %o%es to +ome and an ins%iration and a di"inity to Michelangelo was a "illage near Palestrina# It had a Corinthian column rising in its C%iaAAaC and from it the Colonna took their family arms# It is found on all documents relating to their historyP on ta%estries furniture and medals in many museums and in many wood car"ings in old +oman churches# Palestrina too has memories of Michelangelo# The treasures of master%ieces left by him are scattered all o"er Italy to kee% fresh the memory of his name and fame# 8ubiaco should be made a sto%%ing %lace on e"ery automobilistBs itinerary out from +ome# 8ome wit has said that any one li"ing in a %lace ending with o was bound to be unha%%y# He had in mind one or two sad romances of 8ubiaco though for all that one can hardly see what the letters of its name ha"e got to do with it# 8ubiaco has for long been the haunt of artists and others in search of the %icturesFue but not the general run of tourists# 3Illustration) C8ubiacoC6 8ubiaco is still %rimiti"e in most things and this in s%ite of the fact that a railway has been built through it in recent years# In feudal times the town could hardly ha"e been more %rimiti"e than now in fact the only thing that e"er woke it from lethargy was a little game of warfare sometimes with disaster for the inhabitants and sometimes for the other side# The castle of the ruling baron sat high it is there to&day but its ca%ture has of %rogress# ,own from the castle walls un%rogressi"e %eo%le as somnolent as of u%on the height# =hat is left of been made easier with the march slo%es the town its ha%%y yore#

8ubiaco is one of the most accessible and con"eniently situated hill towns of Italy if any would seek it out# -ero first e@%loited 8ubiaco when he built a "illa here as he did in other likely s%ots round about# -ero built u% and he burned down and he fiddled all the while# He was decidedly a ca%ricious character# History or legend says that -eroBs cu% of cheer was struck from his hand by lightning one day when he was drinking the wine of 8ubiaco here at his hillside "illa# He esca%ed miraculously but he got a good scare though it is not recorded that he signed the %ledgeT 8ubiacoBs humble inn HThe Partridge H is ty%ical of its class throughout Italy# It is in no sense a "ery comfortably installed establishment but it is better far better than the same class of inn in England and *merica and abo"e all its cooking is better# * fowl and a salad and a bottle of wine and some gorgonAola are just a little better at H'a PerniceH than the writer remembers to ha"e eaten elsewhere under similar conditions# Tourists now come by doAens by road and rail to 8ubiaco&&with a %re%onderance of arri"als by road&&whereas a few years ago only a few "enturesome artists and other lo"ers of the o%en knew its charms# 8ome day of course this charm will be gone but it is still lingering on and if you do not %ut on too great a %retense you will get the same good cheer at fi"e francs a day at HThe PartridgeH whether you arri"e in a MercUdXs or come as the artist does white umbrella and can"ases slung across your back# The %ro%rietor of H'a PerniceH has not as yet succumbed to e@%loiting his clients#

!rom 8ubiaco back to +ome "ia Ti"oli is se"enty kilometres and all down hill# 9ne can ha"e no com%lete idea of +oman life without an acFuaintance with the "illas and %alaces of !rascati and Ti"oli# Ti"oli was the summer resort of the old +omans# Mecenate Horace Catullus and Hadrian built "illas there and enjoyed it though in a later day it was re"iled thus) 3Illustration) CJilla dBEste Ti"oliC6 o tira "ento o suona a mortoT

Ti"oli di mal conforto&&9 %io"e

Ti"oli may be said to ha"e recei"ed its boom under the +oman nobles of the *ugustan age who came here and set the fashion of the %lace as a country residence# Things %ros%ered beyond e@%ectations it would seem land agents being modest in those days and by the time of Hadrian reached their lu@urious clima@# Po%e Pius II founded Ti"oliBs citadel on the site of an already ruined am%hitheatre in .5K1# The Jilla dBEste at Ti"oli built by the Cardinal I%%olito dBEste in .E5I is usually considered the most ty%ical suburban "illa in Italy# The house itself is an enormous %ile on one side being three stories higher than on the other# It is a terrace house in e"ery sense of the word# 8tatuary originally dug u% from HadrianBs "illa once embellished the house and grounds to a greater e@tent than now but under the rUgime of late years many of these %ieces ha"e disa%%eared# =hereV The %alace itself is com%arati"ely a modest dignified though e@tensi"e structure the "iews from its higher terraces stretching out far o"er the distant Ccam%agnaC# HadrianBs Jilla with its magnificent grounds occu%ies an area of "ast e@tent# *ccording to 8%artian Hadrian in the second century B# C# built this mar"el of architecture and landsca%e gardening according to a fond and lu@urious fancy which would ha"e been inconcei"able by any other who li"ed at his time# *ll its great e@tent of buildings ha"e suffered the stress of time and some e"en ha"e entirely disa%%eared as a considerable %art of the later monuments of Ti"oli were built u% from their stones# Many of its art treasures were remo"ed to distant %oints many found their ways into %ublic and %ri"ate museums and many ha"e e"en been trans%orted to foreign lands# The Italian go"ernment has now sto%%ed all this by %urchasing the site and making of it a national monument# 3Illustration) H*,+I*-B8 JI''*6 =ith HadrianBs Jilla is connected a sad remembrance# Piranesi that accom%lished and erratic draughtsman whose etchings and drawings of +oman monuments ha"e delighted an admiring world died as a result of o"erwork in connection with a series of measured drawings he was making of this great memorial of +omeBs globe&trotting Em%eror#

CH*PTE+ MI '* BE''* -*P9'I 3Illustration) -a%les >diagram?6 8outh from +ome the highroad to -a%les and on down into Calabria at first follows the old *%%ian =ay built by *%%ius Claudius in 2.0 B# C#

It is a historic highway if there e"er was one from its commencement at +omeBs ancient Porta Ca%uana >now the Porta 8an 8ebastiano? to Ca%ua# *s historic ground it has been e@ca"ated and the soil turned o"er many many times until it would seem as though nothing would be left to disco"er# Enough has been found and %iled u% by the roadside to make the thoroughfare a continuous HsightH for many kilometres# Great churches tombs "ineyards cy%ress&wind&breaks and the arches of the Claudian aFueducts line its length and if the automobilist is so minded he can easily %ut in a day doing the first twenty kilometres# Jelletri thirty&si@ kilometres from +ome is the first town of im%ortance after %assing *lbano %ractically suburban +ome# Cisterna di +oma a doAen kilometres further on town o"erlooking the Pontine Marshes below# is a ty%ical hill to%

Terracina on the coast si@ty&two kilometres beyond Jelletri is the border town between the north and the south %ractically the limit between the e@tent of the Pa%al %ower and that of the kingdom of -a%les# Terracina sits at sea&le"el and in all %robability it is none too healthy an abode though ten thousand souls call it home and seem content# It has a sea&"iew that would make the re%utation of a resort and the !rench and Italian Touring Clubs recommend the Hotel +oyal while the local druggist sells gasoline and oil to automobile tourists at fair rates&&for Italy# *t !ormia one may turn off the direct road and in half a doAen kilometres come to the coast again at Gaeta# The road from !ormia runs through a %icture %aradise and an uns%oilt one considering it from the artistBs %oint of "iew# 'ittle more shall be said though indeed it is not as at 8orrento or Ca%ri but Fuite as good in its way and the *lbergo della Quercia at !ormia is not as yet o"errun with a clientXle of any sort# This is an artistsB sketching ground that is some day going to be e@%loited by some oneP %erha%s by the artist who made the %ictures of this book# =ho knowsV 9"er another fragment of the *%%ian =ay the highroad now continues towards -a%les "ia Ca%ua# *t Ca%ua the road %lunges immediately into a maAe of narrow streets and oneBs only assurance of being able to find his e@it from the town is by em%loying a gamin to sit on the running board and shout CdestraC or CsinistraC at each turning until the o%en country is again reached at the di"iding of the roads leading to Caserta and -a%les res%ecti"ely# The highroad from Ca%ua into -a%les co"ers thirty kilometres of as good or bad roadway as is usually found on entering a great city where the numerous manifest industries ser"e to furnish a traffic mo"ement which is not conduci"e to the u%kee% of good roads# It is a good road though in %arts but the nearer you get to Hla bella -a%oliH the worse it becomes as bad almost as the roads in and out of Marseilles or Genoa and they are about the worst that e@ist for automobilists to re"ile# By either *"erso or Caserta one enters -a%les by the rift in the hills lying back of the obser"atory and finally by the tram&lined 8trada !or"ia always descending until %ractically at sea&le"el one finds a garage close beside the Hotel +oyal et des Strangers and lodges himself in that e@cellent hostelry# This is one way of doing itP there are of course others# The man that first said HCJedi -a%oli e %oi moriTCH didnBt know what he was talking about# -o one will want to die after seeing -a%les# He will want to li"e the longer and come again if not for -a%les itself then

for its surroundings for Pom%eii Herculaneum 8orrento Ca%ri *malfi Jesu"ius and Ischia# -a%les itself will be a good %lace at which to lea"e oneBs e@tra luggage and to use as a mail address# The history of -a%les is "ast and its %resent and historic %ast is most interesting but for all that -a%les without its en"irons would be as naught# The local %ro"erb of old) H=hen 8alerno has its %ort -a%les will be mort >dead? H has no reason for being any more for -a%lesB future as a Mediterranean sea%ort is assured by the indefatigable German who has recently made it a %ort of call for a half a doAen lines of German steamers# Britain may rule the wa"es but the German is fast absorbing the %rofitable end of the carrying trade# -a%les is a crowded uncomfortable city for within a circumference of scarce si@teen kilometres is huddled a %o%ulation of considerably more than half a million souls# -a%lesB chief charms are its site and its magnificently scenic background not its monuments or its %eo%le# HThe laAAaroni H remarked MontesFuieu of the -ea%olitan HwonBt&works H H%ass their time in the middle of the street#H This obser"ation was made many many years ago but it is eFually true to&day# -a%les is not the only Italian city where one sees men li"e without a%%arent means of e@istence but it is here most to be remarked# 9n the Fuays and on the %romenades you see men and women without work and a%%arently without ambition to look for it sa"e to e@%loit strangers# 9n the ste%s of the churches you see men and women without legs arms or eyes and infants Csans chemisesC and they too li"e by the same idle occu%ation of asking for alms# E"erywhere at -a%les before your hotel crowded around your carriage or automobile or %addling around in boats just o"er your steamerBs side are hoards of beggars of all sorts and conditions of %o"erty and %robity# The beggar %o%ulation of -a%les is doubtless of no greater %ro%ortions than in Genoa or e"en +ome but it is more in e"idence and more insistent# There are singing beggars lame halt and blind beggars whining beggars swimming beggars di"ing beggars flower&selling beggars and just %lain CbeggarsC# Gi"e to one and you will ha"e to gi"e to all&&or stand the conseFuences which may be serious or not according to circumstances# ,onBt disburse steriliAed charity then but kee% hard&hearted# -a%lesB chief sights for the tourists are its museum its great domed galleries and their cafUs and restaurants its Castello dellB9"o and the Castel del Carmine# The Castello dellB9"o is out in the sea at the end of a tiny bridge or breakwater running from the PiAAofalcone one of the slo%es of the background hills of -a%les running down to sea&le"el# *s a fortress the Castello dellB9"o is outranked to&day by the least efficient in any land but one of the 8%anish Jiceroys in .E20 ,on Pedro of Toledo thought it a stronghold of %rime im%ortance due entirely to its o"al sha%e which it %reser"es unto to&day# It is uniFue in form at any rate#

Charles JIII of !rance on his memorable Italian journeyings&&when he disco"ered >sic? the +enaissance architecture of Italy and brought it back home with him&&dismantled the castle and left it in its now barrack&like condition shorn of any great distinction sa"e the o"al sha%e of its donjon# 9ne is bound to remark this noble monument as it is from its Fuay that one embarks on the cranky little wobbling steamboat which bears one to Ca%ri# 'ucullus who had some re%utation as a good li"er once had a "illa here on the "ery Fuay which surrounds the Castello# 9%%osite the Jilla del Po%olo >near the Porta del Carmine? the Peo%leBs Park as we should call it is a "ast forbidding unlo"ely structure# 3Illustration) CCastello dellB9"o -a%lesC6

It was built in .5L5 by !erdinand I but during MasanielloBs little disturbance it became a stronghold of the %eo%le# To&day it ser"es as a barracks&&and of course as a military %risonP all nondescri%t buildings in Italy may be safely classed as military %risons though indeed the Italian soldiery do not look an unruly lot# It is well to recall here that Masaniello who ga"e his name to an o%era as well as being a %atriot of the most rabid though re"olutionary ty%e failed of his ambition and died through sheer inability to kee% awake and sufficiently free from an@iety to carry out his %lans# Masaniello lost his head toward the end and got untrustworthy but this was far from justifying either his murder or the infamous treatment of his body immediately after death by the "ery mob that the day before had adored him# His headless trunk was dragged for se"eral hours through the mud and was flung at nightfall like the body of a mad dog into the city ditch# -e@t day through a re"ulsion of feeling he was canoniAedT His cor%se was %icked out of the ditch arrayed in royal robes and buried magnificently in the cathedral# His fishermanBs dress was rent into shreds to be %reser"ed by the crowd as relicsP the door of his hut was %ulled off its hinges by a mob of women and cut into small %ieces to be car"ed into images and made into casketsP while the "ery ground he had walked on was collected in small %hials and sold for its weight in gold to be worn ne@t the heart as an amulet# The HJillasH of -a%les are often mere Cmaisons bourgeoisesC of modern date# Many of them might well be in Bri@ton so far as their architectural charms go# 9"er in the Posili%%o Fuarter a delightful situation indeed are innumerable flat&to%%ed whitewashed "illas so&called entirely unlo"ely all things considered# 9ne of these the Jilla +endel was once inhabited by Garibaldi as a tablet on its wall announces# Garibaldi and the %art that he and his red shirt %layed are not yet forgotten# *%ro%os of this there is a famous lawsuit still in the Italian courts wherein the Garibaldian Colonel Cornacci in accord with +icciotti Garibaldi son of the general makes the following claim against the Italian go"ernment) I# *ll the HCtresorCH >gold and sil"er? of the house of Bourbon# II# Ele"en millions of ducats taken from the Garibaldian go"ernment at -a%les# III# The Bourbon museum now incor%orated with the -ational Museum# IJ# The Palace of Caserta and its %ark# J# The Palace !arnese at +ome#

JI# The Palace and Jilla !arnese at Ca%rarola at -a%les# JII# Two Jillas at -a%les Ca%odimonte and 'a !a"orita#

This is the balance sheet discre%ancy resulting from the war of .LK1 which the Garibaldian heirs claim is theirs by rights# ItBs a mere bagatelle of courseT 9ne wonders why the Italian go"ernment donBt settle it at once and be done with itT -a%les is the birth&%lace of Polichinelle as Paris is of Pierrot two figures of fancy which will ne"er die out in literature or art a tender e@%ression of sentiment Fuite worthy of being ke%t ali"e# The -ea%olitan en f\te is Fuite the eFual in gayety and irres%onsibility of the inhabitant of 8e"ille or Montmartre# The %rocessionings of any big Italian town are a thing which once seen will always be remembered# *t -a%les they seem a bit more gorgeous and s%ontaneous in their gayety than elsewhere with rugs and banners floating in the air from e"ery balcony and flowers falling from e"ery hand# It is e"ery manBs carni"al the celebration at -a%les# 'eading out to the west back of Posili%%o is the 8trada di Piedigrotta which is continued as the Grotto -uo"o di Posili%o and through which runs a tramway all kinds of animal&drawn wheeled traffic and automobiles with o%en e@hausts# *ll this com%orts little with the fact that the ancient tunnelled road along here was one of the mar"els of engineering in the time of *ugustus and that it led to JirgilBs tomb# This su%%osed tomb of Jirgil is Fuestioned by archYologists but that doesnBt much matter for the rest of us# =e know that Jirgil himself has said that it was here that he com%osed the HGeorgicsH and the HNneid H and it might well ha"e been his last resting&%lace too# H*ddio mia bella -a%oliT *ddioTH

CH*PTE+ MII THE BE*;TI!;' B*$ 9! -*P'E8 H8ee -a%les and dieH is all "ery well for a sentiment saw it many years ago it was under a grim grey sky front was washed by a milky&green fury of a sea# but when we first and its shore

!ortunately it is not always thusP indeed it is seldom so# 9n that occasion Jesu"ius was in"isible and Posili%%o in dim relief# =hat a contrast to things as they usually areT 8till -a%les and its Bay are no %henomenal wonders# 8u%%ress the %oint of "iew the focus of Jirgil of Horace of Tiberius and of -ero and the "iew of H*lger la Blanche H or of Marseilles and its headlands is Fuite as beautiful# *nd the Bay of -a%les is not so beautifully blue eitherP the Bai de la Ciotat in Maritime Pro"ince is often the same colour and has a nearby range of jutting jagged foam&lashed %romontories that are all that Ca%ri is&&all but the grotto# 3Illustration) THE B*$ 9! -*P'E86 The Bay of -a%les has its moods and there are times when its blueness is more a%%arent than at othersP in short there are times when it looks more beautiful than at others and then one is a%t to think its charms su%erlati"e#

The %raises of the ra"ishing beauty of the Bay of -a%les ha"e been sung by the %oets and told in %rose e"er since the art of writing tra"el im%ressions has been known but though the half may not ha"e been told it were futile to reiterate what one may see for himself if he will only come and look# H* %iece of hea"en fallen to earth H 8annaAar has said and certainly no one can ho%e to describe it with more glowing %raise# !or the artist the whole -ea%olitan coastline and background as well is a riot of rainbow colouring such as can hardly be found elsewhere e@ce%t in the 9rient# It is not only that the Bay of -a%les is blue but the greys and drabs of the ash and cinders of Jesu"ius seem to accentuate all the brilliant reds and yellows and greens of the foliage and houseto%s not forgetting the shi%%ing of the little %orts and the costuming of land&lubbers and sailor&men and of course the women# The Italian women young or old are %ossessed of about the lo"eliest colouring of any of the fair women of the twentieth century %ortrait gallery# The en"irons of -a%les ha"e two %lagues which when they rise in their wrath can scarcely be a"oided# 9ne is the sirocco that dry stiff wind which blows along the Mediterranean coast in summer coming from the *frican shore and the desert beyond and the much worse or at least more dreaded Caria catti"aC which is su%%osed to blow the sul%hurous gases and cinders of Jesu"ius down the %o%ulationBs throats and does to a certain e@tent# 9ut beyond Posili%%o which itself is %ro%erly enough bound u% with the life of -a%les lies PouAAoles# The e@cursion is usually made in half a day by carriage and automobilists ha"e been known to do it in half an hour# The former method is %referable though the automobilist is free from the ra%acious -ea%olitan cab dri"er and thatBs a good deal in fa"our of the new locomotion# If only automobilists as a class wouldnBt be in such a hurryT PouAAoles has no s%lendid %alaces but it has the remains of a former tem%le of *ugustus in the sha%e of twel"e magnificent Corinthian columns built into the Cathedral of 8aint Procule and some remains of another shrine dedicated to 8era%is# There are also the ruins of CiceroBs "illa at Baies a little further on# Mont Gauro where the Hrough !alernianH wine whose %raises were sung by =alter de Ma%es comes from shelters the little "illage on one side and Mont -uo"o on the other this last a mountain or hillock of %erha%s a hundred and fifty metres in height which grew u% in a night as a result of a si@teenth century earthFuake# The 'ake of *"erno is nearby a tiny body of water whose name and fame are celebrated afar but which as a lake %ro%erly considered hardly ranks in siAe with the a"erage mill&%ond# =ith a de%th of some thirty odd metres and a circumference of three kilometres its charms were sufficient to attract Hannibal thither to sacrifice to Pluto and Jirgil there laid the H,escent into Purgatory#H *gri%%a with an indomitable energy and the hel% of twenty thousand sla"es made it into a %ort great enough to shelter the +oman fleet# *t Baies there is a magnificent feudal work in the form of a fortress&ch[teau of Pedro of Toledo >.E2L?# *t the tiny %ort of Torrega"eta just beyond one takes shi% for Procida and Ischia two islands often neglected in making the round of -a%les Bay# Procida off shore three or four kilometres and with a length of about the same has a %o%ulation of fifteen thousand most of whom rent boats to "isitors# Com%etition here being fierce %rices are reasonable&&anything you like to %ay %ro"ided you can clinch the bargain beforehand#

Ischia is twice the siAe of Procida twice the distance from the mainland and has twice the %o%ulation of the latter# 9ne might say too that it is twice as interesting# It is a "ast %yramid of rock dominated by a ch[teau&fort dating from .5E1# It looks almost unreal in its im%ressi"eness and since it is of "olcanic growth the island may some day disa%%ear as suddenly as it came# 8uch is the fear of most of the %o%ulation# * Fuick round south from -a%les can be made by following the itinerary below# It can be done in a day or a week but in the former case one must be content with a cinematogra%hic reminiscence# -a%les&&Portici +esina&&Herculaneum Torre del Greco Torre *nunAiata Castellamare 8orrento Meta&&Positano *malfi 8alerno -a%les 3Illustration) CIschiaC6 3Illustration) '*J* BE,8 9! JE8;JI;86 8ome one has said that Jesu"ius was a "icious boil on the neck of -a%les# There is not much sentiment in the e@%ression and little delicacy but there is much truth in it# 8till if it were not for Jesu"ius much of the charm and character of the Bay of -a%les and its CcadreC would be gone for e"er# *ll around the base of the great cone are a flock of little half&baked la"a&burned "illages as sad as an EsFuimau@ settlement in the great lone land# This is the way they strike one as %laces to li"e in though the artist folk find them %icturesFue enough it is true and a %oet of the ,ante ty%e would %robably get as much ins%iration here as did *lighieri from the Inferno# It has been remarked before now that Italy is a birdless land# The +enaissance %oets sang differently but judging from the country immediately neighbouring u%on Jesu"ius and Calabria to the southward one is inclined to join forces with the first mentioned authority# -ot e"en a carrion crow could make a li"ing in some %arts of southern Italy# 8o desolate and lone is this s%arsely %o%ulated region towards the south that it is about the only %art of Italy where one may ho%e to encounter the brigand of romance and fiction# The thing is not unheard of to&day but what brigands are left are %resumably kidna%%ers for %olitical %ur%oses who wreak their "engeance on some official# The stranger tourist goes free# He is only robbed by the hotel kee%ers and their em%loyees who think more of Cbuona manoC than anything else# * recent account >.I1/? in an Italian journal tells of the ad"entures of the master of ceremonies at Jictor EmmanuelBs court who was ca%tured by bandits and im%risoned in a ca"e in that Cterra incognitaC back of Jesu"ius away from the coast# -ews%a%er accounts are often at "ariance with the facts but these made thrilling reading# 9ne account said that the kidna%%ers tore out the MarFuisBs teeth one by one in order to force him to write a letter asking for ransom# *s he still refused lights were held to the soles of 5#L <ilometres K#2 H I#5 H .K#K H 05#E H 50#I H EI#L H /1#. H I5#/ H .55#K H

his naked feet# The MarFuis was lured from -a%les to the neighbourhood of a grotto in the direction of Jesu"ius where he was seiAed by the brigandBs confederates# HI was seiAed une@%ectedly from behind H said the MarFuis in his "ersion Hand after a shar% struggle with my unseen assailants was carried down into the grotto with Herculanean force and tightly bound# HThen liberating my right arm the brigands fetched a lam% and writing materials co"ering their faces with masks# Threatening me with instant death the chief forced me to write a letter to my friends demanding that money be sent me forthwith# *t the same time he took from me all my "aluables and then disa%%eared lea"ing me a %risoner with a guard before the entrance of my ca"e#H The ad"enture ended harmlessly enough and whether it was all a dream or not of course nobody but the MarFuis knows# *t any rate it has Fuite a mediY"al ring to it# 3Illustration) THE EMC*J*TI9-8 9! P9MPEII6 Pom%eii is remarkable but it is disa%%ointing# *ll that is of real interest has been remo"ed to the -a%les museum# =ithout its !orum and its magnificent tem%les and Jesu"ius as a Ctoile de fondC Pom%eii would be a dreary %lace indeed to any but an archYologist# It is a waste of time to "iew any restored historic monument where modern house %ainters ha"e refurbished the old half&obliterated frescoes# The famous Ca"e Canem too the only mosaic that remains intact has been twice remo"ed from its original em%lacement# $es Pom%eii is a disa%%ointmentT It is too much of a show&%laceT The most notable obser"ation to be made with regard to the admirable architectural details of Pom%eii is that they are all on a diminuti"e scale# The colonnade of the !orum for instance could ne"er be carried out on the magnificent scale of the +oman !orum and indeed when modern architects ha"e attem%ted to re%roduce the faWade of a tiny %agan tem%le as in the Sglise de la Madeleine or the Palais Bourbon at Paris they ha"e failed miserably# The ri"al claims of the Hotel 8uisse and the Hotel ,iomede at Pom%eii >to say nothing of that of the *lbergo del 8ol o%%osite the entrance to the *m%hitheatre? make it difficult for the stranger to decide u%on which to bestow his %atronage# The artists go to the *lbergo del 8ol which is rough and uncomfortable enough from many %oints of "iew and the tourists of con"ention go to one of the other two where they are He@%loitedH a bit but get more attention# *t any one of these hotels one can hire a horse to climb u% the cone of Jesu"ius if one thinks he would like such rude s%ort and %rices are anything he will %ay about fi"e or si@ francs though it costs another two francs for a guide and another two francs for the ragamuffin who follows after and holds the horses while you e@%lore the crater# If the latter was blacking boots in -ew $ork e"en for a %adrone at fi"e cents a shine he would make more money and be counted out of the robber class# *s it is he is a rank im%ostor and needless&&%ro"ided you ha"e the courage to refuse his ser"ices# The contrast between Herculaneum and Pom%eii is notable# Herculaneum was buried under thirty metres of liFuid la"a but Pom%eii was buried only roof&high under cinders# Herculaneum will some day be unco"ered to the e@tent of Pom%eii and then it is %robable the world will ha"e new mar"els at which to wonder#

The rewards from the e@ca"ation of Herculaneum may well be commensurate with the toil# It was an infinitely more im%ortant %lace than Pom%eii which was only a little country town without libraries or %articularly wealthy inhabitants# Herculaneum on the other hand was the summer resort of wealthy +omans who s%ent their li"es in adorning their beautiful "illas with the choicest work of Greek art# Pliny said that they had a mania for collecting Greek sil"er and other works of art and at %rices that would e"en make the wealthiest art connoisseurs of to&day %ause for thought# *gri%%ina among others had her "illa here# Herculaneum remains intact and undes%oiled as it was more than eighteen centuries ago# 3Illustration) CThe En"irons of Pom%eiiC 8T*BI*E ^ 8*+-J8&!'J ^ 8J++E-TJM ^ C*P+EN ^ P9+TJ8 P9MPEI*-*6 !rom Pom%eii to 8orrento "ia Castellamare is twenty&fi"e kilometres# 8orrento is in summer a bathing %lace for such of the -ea%olitan high&life %o%ulation as are not able to get far away from home# 9ne %ro%erly enough attaches no im%ortance whate"er to the gay life of the boule"ards the cafUs and the restaurants of -a%les# It is the same thing as at +ome Paris and 'ondon o"er again with all its silly flaneries but here at 8orrento or across the %eninsula at *malfi life is less fe"erish and one may stroll about or indeed li"e free and tranFuil from care in hotels less lu@urious no doubt than those of the Quai Partheno%e but offering a sufficient degree of comfort to make them agreeable to the most e@acting# The real winter birds of %assage only alight here for a %eriod of three or four weeks in :anuary or !ebruary# *fter that it is delightful e@ce%t for the short %eriod when it is gi"en u% to the crowd of tourists which in"ariably comes at Easter# 8orrento is the great centre for all the charming region bordering u%on the southern shore of the Bay of -a%les# It is at once the city and the country# Its hotels are delightfully dis%osed amid flowering gardens or on a terrace o"erlooking the escar%ments of the rock&bound coast# 8i@ or se"en francs a day or eight or ten according to the class of establishment one %atroniAes and one finds the best of sim%le fare and comfort# Eight days or a fortnight one may roam about the neighbourhood at 8orrento from 8ant *gatha on a nearby height to 8ejano Castellamare Positano *malfi and finally Ca%ri# There is hardly such a range of charming little towns and townlets to be found elsewhere in all the world# E@ce%t for its restricted little business Fuarter the houses and "illas of 8orrento are dis%osed on the best of Hgarden cityH %lans# *gain a %lague on a beauty s%ot must be admitted) mosFuitoes will all but de"our you here between mid&*ugust and the end of 9ctober# The only safe&guard is to %aint yourself with iodine but the cure is as bad as the com%laint# The tra"eller in Italy learns of course to beware of coral of white %ink and milky coloured coral# =e had been afraid to e"en look at such e"er since we had seen it being made by the ton in Belgium&&and good looking HcoralH it was# 9nce the artist bought a string of the real thing at Tabarka in Tunisia and once a friend who was with us on the +i"iera di Ponente bought a necklet of what was called coral at an outrageous %rice of a wily

boatman# It all went u% in smoke >accom%anied by a "ile smell? ultimately though fortunately it was not on the ownerBs neck at the time# It was an injudicious mi@ture of gun&cotton nitroglycerine or what not# It wasnBt coralP that was e"ident# -ow when we walk out at 8orrento no GraAiella her shoulders scintillating with ro%es of coral beguiles us into buying any of her family heirlooms# To sum u%) the coral which is sold to tourists is often falseP that which is fished u% before your eyes from the sea is always so# Beware of the coral of 8orrento or Ca%ri# The tri% to Ca%ri is of course included in e"ery oneBs itinerary in these %arts and for that reason it is not omitted here though indeed the famous grotto o"er which the sentimentally inclined so lo"e to ra"e has little more charm than the same thing re%resented on the stage# This at any rate is one manBs o%inion# It is most con"eniently reached by boat from 8orrento# The famous retreat of *ugustus and the scene of the debauches of Tiberius will e"er ha"e an attraction for the globe&trotter e"en though its romance is mostly fictitious# 9ne may gather any o%inions he chooses and %ro"ided he gathers them on the s%ot and makes them u% out of his own imaginings he will be content with Ca%riBs grottoP only he mustnBt take the guide&books too seriously# The Blue GrottoBs goddess is *m%hitrite and if any one catches a glim%se of her traditional scanty dra%eries swishing around a corner let him not be misguided into following her into her retreat# If he does the sea is guaranteed to rise and close the orifice so that he may not get out again as soon as he might wish# In that case one must wait till the wind which has "eered suddenly from east to west comes about again and blows from the south# =ithout bringing *m%hitrite into the matter at all it sometimes ha%%ens that "isitors entering the grotto for a %leasant half hour may be obliged to stay there two three or e"en fi"e days# The boatmen&guides %ro"iding for such emergencies carry with them a certain Fuantity of CbiscottiC with which to sustain their "ictims# *s for fresh water it trickles through into the grotto in se"eral %laces in a sufficient Fuantity to allay any a%%rehensions as to dying of thirst# 9ne might well blame the Ca%ri guides for not calling the "isitorBs attention to these things# But if one is re%roached he sim%ly answers) HCMa cheCT CeccelenAaC if we should call attention to this thing half the would&be "isitors would balk at the first ste% and that would be bad for our business#H *le@andre ,umas tells of how on a "isit to Ca%ri in .L2E the fisherman was %ointed out to him who had ten years earlier re&disco"ered the Blue Grotto of *ugustusB time whilst searching for mussels among the rocks# He went at once to the authorities on the island and told them of his disco"ery and asked for the %ri"ilege of e@%loiting "isitors# This disco"erer of a new underground world was able by means of graft or other means to %ut the thing through and li"ed in ease e"er after through his ability to le"y a toll on other guides to whom he farmed out his %ri"ilege# Quite the best of Ca%ri is abo"e ground the isle itself set like a gem in the waters of the Mediterranean# The "ery natural sym%honic colouring of the rocks and hillsides and roofto%s of its houses and indeed the costuming of its "ery %eo%le make it "ery beautiful# !or *malfi 8alerno and PYstum the automobilist must retrace his way from 8orrento to Castellamare when in thirty kilometres he may gain *malfi and in another twenty&fi"e 8alerno# PYstum and its tem%les to many the chief things of interest in Italy the land of noble monuments

lie forty kilometres away from 8alerno# The automobilist to add this to his e@cursion out from -a%les is debarred from making the round in a day e"en if he would# It is worth doing howe"erP that goes without saying though the attem%t is not made here of %ur"eying guide&book or historical information# If you donBt know anything about PYstum or care anything about it then lea"e it out and get back to -a%les as Fuickly as you can and so on out of the country at the same rate of s%eed#

CH*PTE+ MIII *C+988 ;MB+I* T9 THE *,+I*TIC The mountain district of ;mbria a country of clear outlines against %ale blue skies is one of the most charming in the %eninsula though not the most grandly scenic# The highway from +ome to *ncona across ;mbria follows the itinerary of one of the most ancient of +oman roads the Jia Jaleria# The railway too follows almost in the same track though each lea"es the Im%erial City itself by the great trunk line "ia 8alaria and the Jalley of the Tiber# Terni is the great junction from which radiate "arious other lines of communication to all %arts of the kingdom# Terni is %ractically the geogra%hical centre of Italy# It is a bustling manufacturing town and su%%osedly the Interamna where Tacitus was born# !rom Terni one reaches -a%les "ia *"eAAano in 0E/ kilometresP +ome "ia Ci"ita Castellana in I5 kilometresP !lorence "ia Perugia and *reAAo in 0EK kilometres and *ncona on the shores of the *driatic "ia !oligno in 01I kilometres# *ll of these roads run the gamut from high to low le"els and though in no sense to be classed as mountain roads are sufficiently trying to e"en a modern automobile to be classed as difficult# The Cascades of Terni used to be one of the stock sights of tourists a generation ago but truth to tell they are not remarkable natural beauties and indeed are too a%%arently artificial to be admired# Moreo"er one is too much He@%loitedH in the neighbourhood to enjoy his "isit# It costs half a lira to enter by this gate and to lea"e by that roadP to cross this bridge or descend into that ca"ernP and troo%s of children beg soldi of you at e"ery turn# The thing is not worth doing# 8%oleto twenty&si@ kilometres away is somewhat more interesting# It is famous for the fine relics which still e@ist of its more magnificent days when 050 B# C# it was named 8%oletium# The towers of 8%oleto like those of 8an Gimignano and Jolterra are its chief gloryP ci"ic secular and churchly towers all blending into one haAy mass of grim militant %ower# The !ranciscan con"ent on the u%%ermost height seems to guard all the towers below as a she%herd guards his flock or a mother hen her chickens# In .5II the eFui"ocal enigmatic 'ucreAia Borgia came to inhabit the castle of 8%oleto# The fair but unholy 'ucreAia was a wandering restless being who liked a%%arently to be continually on the mo"e# Here in the fortress of 8%oleto 'ucreAia Borgia coming straight from the Jatican held for a brief year the seals of the state in her frail hands her father at the time being go"ernor#

The as%ect of this grim fortress&ch[teau grim but li"able as one knows from the historical accounts is to&day so far as outlines are concerned just as it was fi"e centuries ago# It is grandiose se"ere and majestic and is dominant in all the landsca%e round about not e"en its mountain background dwarfing its %ro%ortions# The military defence was that %ortion lying lowest down in the "alley while the residence of the go"ernor was in the u%%er %ortion# 9ne reads the history of three distinct e%ochs in its architecture the Gothic of the fifteenth century that of the si@teenth and the later inter%olated +enaissance decorations# Through !oligno and *ssisi runs the road to Perugia# *ssisi is a much "isited shrine but !oligno is remembered by most of those who ha"e tra"elled that way only as a grimy railway junction# 3Illustration) *88I8I6 *ssisi the little ;mbrian hill town is deser"edly the %o%ular shrine that it is# *ssisi is a religious shrine but its skyline silhouette is more like that which %ro%erly belongs to a warlike stronghold# The city of 8t# !rancis is lo"ed by men of all creeds who recall the story of the holy man who with %o"erty as a garment trod his long way singing talking to the birds and succouring all who were sore or hea"y laden# Immense antiFuity is suggested by e"erything round about from the tombs of the Etruscan -ecro%olis dating from .E1 B#C# down to the tri%le&storied con"ent church of 8an !rancesco of .021 and the Basilica of 8anta Maria degli *ngeli of .E1I# 3Illustration) *88I8I IT8 =*''8 C*8T'E G CH;+CH6 The now seculariAed con"ent and its tri%le church ha"e all the characteristics of a mediY"al fortress when "iewed from afar# The town itself owes most if not all of its fame to its belo"ed 8an !rancesco# His birth%lace has disa%%eared and its site occu%ied by the Chiesa -uo"a but a %art of it has been built into the church making it another shrine of the holy man who did so much good to his fellows during his life and to his nati"e town in these late days by bringing tens nay e"en hundreds of thousands of tourists thither to s%end their money on local guides cabmen and inn&kee%ers# * sordid %oint of "iew some may think# But is itV =hat would *ssisi be without the touristsV 8till wooing the 'ady Po"erty thereBs no doubt about that# =hat would Jenice be without the touristsV -ot what it is to&day# -o indeed# It is dead and dull enough e"en now at certain seasons# It would become so for all time without the strangers# Perugia is the big town of ;mbria# To&day it boasts of twenty odd thousand souls but in the days when it struggled against %a%al control it was e"en more %o%ulous# Its history is one long drawn out tale of re"olt and submission in turn from the days when it first submitted to the +omans in 2.1 B# C# until it threw its fate in with that of the other states of Jictor Emmanuel in .LK1# If e"er a city was blood&ba%tiAed that honour is PerugiaBs# It has not a crooked old street nor gate nor fountain nor %iaAAa or %alaAAo but what is gory with bloody memories# Perugia was a dominant mediY"al influence all through the neighbourhood and le"ied tribute on all her "assal cities and towns# !olignoBs walls and ram%arts had fallen and the %eo%le of Perugia came and carted off the stone for their own needsP *reAAo stri%%ed her churches and %alaces to %ro"ide the marbles for PerugiaBs cathedral#

3Illustration) C*rchitectural ,etail

PerugiaC6

PerugiaBs o@en are famous in literature and art but they ha"e almost become a memory though an occasional one may be seen standing in the market %lace or a yoke working in the nearby fields# Electric cars haul %assengers and freight about the city at a death&dealing %ace and the o@ as a beast of burden is out&distanced and out&classed# The ancient ci"iliAation is re%resented at Perugia by a remarkable series of old fortification walls still admirably conser"ed a kilometre or more from the centre of town a necro%olis of ten chambers and an antiFue +oman arch of *ugustus# PerugiaBs lode star for tra"ellers has e"er been the fact that it was the centre of the school of ;mbrian %ainters# This is not saying that it has no architecture worth mentioning for the re"erse is the case# 9ut from Perugia by the Porta di Elce on the Cortona road one %asses a cou%le of im%osing edifices# 9ne from a distance looks grandly romantic and mediY"al but is only a base modern re%roduction in cement and timber&&and for all the writer knows steel beams as well&&of an ancient feudal castle# The other is less grand less lu@urious %ossibly but is the "ery ideal of an Italian country house habitable to&day but surrounded with all the romantic fla"our of mediY"alism# It is still called the Jilla of the Cardinal by "irtue of the fact that Cardinal !ul"io della Corgna built it in .EL1# 'ocally it is also known as the Jilla ;mberto and it belongs to and is inhabited by the family of Commendatore !erdinando Cesaroni# *rchitecturally %erha%s the "illa is not a great work but it is mar"ellously satisfying to the eye by reason of its dis%osition and its outlook# Gubbio thirty&nine kilometres away by road is not readily accessible by rail from Perugia though on the direct line from *reAAo *ncona and !oligno# The automobilist may reach Gubbio from Perugia in less time than the rail&tied tra"eller may check his baggage and take his %lace in the train# -ot many include Gubbio in their Italian tours# Its Etruscan lore and relics ha"e been made the subject of "olumes but little has been done to set forth its charms for the Italian %ilgrim who would seek to get away from the herding crowds of the great cities and towns# 3Illustration) CPalaAAo ,ucale ;rbinoC6

GubbioBs ducal %alace is moss grown and weedy so far as its roofto% and courtyard are concerned but it is a "ery warm and li"ely old fabric ne"ertheless and those that lo"e historic old shrines will find much here that they will often not disco"er in a well restored highly furbished monument ke%t frankly as a show&%lace for throngs of tri%%ers who cannot tell old bronAe from new co%%er or wrought iron from CfontC# The hurly&burly of twentieth century life has not yet reached Gubbio and that is why it %resents itself to the "isitor within its walls in such agreeable fashion# 9ff in the Marches si@ty&fi"e kilometres from Gubbio is the little town of ;rbino# It has a PalaAAo ,ucale most remarkable in its architecture and its em%lacement# It was begun in .K5L by !rederigo di Montefeltro on the site of a former %alace of a century before# The a%artments within are not merely the halls of a museum but are remarkably interesting and li"able mediY"al a%artments and to&day are

much as they were in the days of the gallant dukes one of whom Guidobaldo II was a %oet himself and a %atron of letters who ga"e his %rotection to the last Italian %oet whose fame was Euro%ean&&TorFuato Tasso# ;rbino too was the birth%lace of him whom we know familiarly as +a%hael though curiously enough the local museum contains but a single e@am%le of his work and that a drawing of HMoses in the Bulrushes#H ;rbinoBs chief Hsight H though it is not beautiful in itself is the birth%lace of +a%hael situated in a little street running off from near the ducal %alace a street which mounts hea"enward so stee%ly that it was formerly called the Jia del Monte# The authorities in an effort to kee% u% with %o%ular taste ha"e recently changed the name to Jia +affaello# It is a mean sim%le and grim looking little house not at all beautiful according to %alatial standards# 9n the Kth of *%ril .5L2 its fame began but %ilgrims ha"e only in recent years come to bow down before it# -e"ertheless %o%es and %relates and %rinces came here to sit to the H%ainter of ;rbinoH and ha"e left an added distinction to the house# MuAio 9ddi the celebrated architect and mathematician caused to be gra"en the following on its faWade)&& H'udet in humanis di"ina %otentia rebus Et sae%e in %ar"is claudre magna solet#H * tablet marks the house %lainly# It will not be %ossible to miss it# ;rbino sits high abo"e the surrounding "alley twel"e or fifteen hundred feet abo"e sea le"el# * coach of doubtful antiFuity formerly made the same journey as that co"ered by the railway and de%osited its mi@ed freight of tra"ellers and inhabitants in one of the most s%lendid of the +enaissance cities of Italy# -ow the automobile brings many more tourists than e"er before came by coach or railway e"en and accordingly ;rbino will undoubtedly become better known# The court of ;rbino in the si@teenth century was one of the most refined and learned of the courts of Italy and therefore of the world# Coryat in his HCrudities H of the se"enteenth century remarks a difference between English and Italian manners# HI obser"ed a custom in all those Italian cities and towns through which I %assed that is not used in any other country that I saw in my tra"elsP neither do I think that any other nation of Christendom doth use it but only Italy# The Italian and also most strangers that are commorant in Italy do always at their meals use a little fork when they cut their meat#H Is it that the fork came to earth as a se"enteenth century Italian inno"ationV ;rbinoBs *lbergo Italia merits the sign of the crossed knife and fork the *utomobile ClubBs endorsement of good food# 9ne of the classic figures of mediY"al ;rbino was 9ddantonio of the great house of Montefeltro who succeeding to the dukedom at the age of fifteen fell under the ill control of the brilliant but corru%t 8igismondo Malatesta of +imini# Thirty fi"e kilometres east of ;rbino lies the blue *driatic %erha%s the most beautiful of all the Italian seas# The descent from four hundred metres at ;rbino to sea le"el is gradual and easy but it is a steady fall that is bound to be remarked by tra"ellers by road with the sea in sight for the major %art of the way#

9ne comes to the *driatic shore at Pesaro midway on the coast between +a"enna and *ncona# -orth and south from the Jenetian boundary to the rocky s%arse&%o%ulated shores of Calabria flanking u%on the Ionian sea is a wonderland of little&tra"elled highroad all of it a historic itinerary though indeed the road is none of the best# To the jaded tra"eller tired of stock sights and scenes the co"ering of this coast road from Jenice to Brindisi would be a journey worth the making but it should not be done hurriedly#

CH*PTE+ MIJ B$ *,+I*TICB8 8H9+E The Italian shore of the *driatic is a terra incognita to most tra"ellers in Italy sa"e those who take shi% for the east at Brindisi and e"en they arri"e from Calais Paris or 9stende by e@%ress train without break of journey en route# The following table gi"es the kilometric distances of this shore road by the *driatic through the coast towns from 9tranto in Pouilles to Chioggia in Jenetia# The itinerary has %erha%s ne"er been made in its entirety by any stranger automobilist but the writer has seen enough to make him want to co"er its entire length# 9tranto 'ecce Brindisi Mono%oli Bari Barletta Manfredonia !oggia Po%ulation 00 0KK 0 222 .K /.I / K01 EL 0KK 2. .I5 L 205 .5 1K/ <ilometres 1 51#5 L1 .E. .I2#2 05L#0 221 2KL#5

Here the road lea"es the coast but joins again at 9rtona# Isernia 9rtona Pescara *ncona Pesaro +imini +a"enna !errara Chioggia / K 0 0L .0 .1 .L 0L 01 KL/ 2KK K.0 E// E5/ L2L E/. L.5 2L. E0K#/ K/2#E KI5#2 L5I#/ I1I#/ I5E#2 IIE#2 . 1KL#/ . .K1#E

The abo"e are the cold figures as worked out from the +oad Books Ma%s and Profiles of the Touring Club Italiano# The whole forms a rather lengthy itinerary but in %art it is within the %ower of e"ery automobilist in Italy to make as he crosses ;mbria from +ome to the *driatic by including that %ortion of the route between *ncona and Chioggia# This cuts the distance to the more reasonable figure of a little more than three hundred kilometres# Taranto 9tranto and Bari are mere %lace names for which most do not e"en know where to look on the ma%# Conditions of life were not easy or lu@urious here in the out%osts of the western em%ire and the influ@ of alien Greek and Turk and :ew has e"er tended to change the Italian colouring to one almost 9riental in tone and brilliance#

Brindisi has usually been considered a mere way station on the tra"ellerBs itinerary where he changes train for boat# But it is more than that# It was the ancient Brentesion of the Greeks indeed it was the gateway of all intercourse between the %eninsula and the Greece of the mainland and the islands of Ngina# Jirgil died here on his return from Greece in .I B#C# and for that reason alone it at once takes rank as one of the worldBs great literary shrines# But who e"er heard of a literary %ilgrim coming hereT BrindisiBs Castello built by !erdinand II and Charles J still o"erlooks the harbour and though it %erforms no more the functions of a fortress it is an im%osing and admirable mediY"al monument# -ear the harbour is a s"elt Greek column with a highly scul%tured ca%ital and an inscri%tion to the memory of a ByAantine ruler who built u% the city anew in the tenth century after it had fallen %rey to the 8aracens# This column too su%%osedly marks the termination of the *%%ian =ay which started from +omeBs !orum and wandered across the Cam%agna and on to this eastern out%ost# 3Illustration) BrindisiP The Terminal Column of the *%%ian =ay6 Bari like Brindisi was an ancient sea%ort# Horace sang its %raises or rather the %raises of its fish as did Petrarch of the car% at Jaucluse and the town was one of the most ancient bisho%rics in Italy# !rom the tenth to the fourteenth century the fate of the town was e"er in the balance changing its allegiance from one seigneur to another who for the moment ha%%ened to be the more masterful# In the fourteenth century it became an inde%endent ,uchy and in .EEL was united with the kingdom of -a%les# BariBs Castello was built in ..K1 and like that at Brindisi grim militant as%ect which bes%eaks if not deeds of romance those of "alour# is of that at least

In the PiaAAa Mercanto is a great bronAe lion wearing an e@aggerated dog&collar on which is inscribed the HCustos :ustitiY H the heraldic motto and de"ice of the city# Manfredonia Termoli 9rtona and Pescara are all of them charming *driatic towns each and all %ossessed of "i"id reminders of the days of the corsairs ad"enturers and %irate 8aracen hordes# Their battlemented walls and castles still e@ist in the real and little of twentieth century %rogress has as yet made its mark u%on them# Mythology history and romance ha"e here combined# *ncona is not included in e"ery oneBs Italian itinerary# This is the more to be regretted in that it is "ery accessible not only by road but by rail from +a"enna or Perugia or by sea in eight or ten hours from Jenice# The city of fifty thousand inhabitants with a Ghetto of si@ thousand :ews is beautifully situated on an am%hitheatre of hills o"erlooking the *driatic# The mole which encloses its harbour su%%orts two trium%hal arches making a sort of monumental water&gate uneFualled by anything similar in all the world# 9ne of these arches was erected by the +oman 8enate in .00 to the honour of Trajan and the other in honour of Po%e Clement MII in ./51# Trajan undoubtedly deser"ed the honour# It was he who was the first to hold that Hit was better a thousand guilty %ersons should esca%e than that one innocent %erson should be condemned#H =hen he a%%ointed 8ubarranus Ca%tain of the Guard he %resented him according to custom with a drawn sword saying as he handed it these memorable words)

HCPro me si merear in meCH >H;se this sword for me) If I deser"e it against meH?# It is good to know that men like these may ha"e memorial arches as well as mere cut&throat conFuerors# 3Illustration) CTrajanBs *rch *nconaC6

E"ery student of Italian architecture knows PiranesiBs drawing of the famous Trajan arch at *ncona# It was more truthful than many of his drawings of +oman antiFuities and might indeed ha"e been made in these latter years for little is changed on *nconaBs seafront# There is at *ncona a memory of !ili%%o 'i%%i a monkish draughtsman of great ability a contem%orary of the better known !ra *ngelico# 9nce he set out on the blue waters of the *driatic from the "ery ste%s below the *rch of Trajan where the wa"es la% to&day for a little sail# 'ike many %eo%le who make e@cursions in boats he was unskilful and worse for drifting out to sea he was in due time %icked u% by a Barbary %irate and ne@t %ut foot on shore in *frica# He drew the %irate chiefBs %ortrait on the wall of his %rison and in s%ite of the interdiction of the <oran the Moor was %leased and ga"e the !ra his liberty forthwith taking him back to within sight of TrajanBs arch when he was %reci%itately %ut o"er side and made to swim ashore the %irate returning from whence he came# 8enegallia between *ncona and Pesaro was an a%%anage of the ,ukes of ;rbino# It is an enchanting unworldly little town e"en to&day its great %rotecting walls %ierced by si@ gateways the same through which a whole hierarchy of conFuerors %assed in the long ago# It is a %lace of dreams if one is gi"en to that sort of thing# The MediY"al PalaAAo Communal is still in e"idence and the little creek&like harbour is full of wobbly little boats with %ainted masts and sails all most Fuaint# Behind are the gentle slo%es of "ine&clad hills shutting out the western world beyond# Pesaro the ancient Pisaurum is the ca%ital of the united %ro"inces of Pesaro and ;rbino# The Malatesta the 8forAa and the +o"ere families all ruled its destinies in their time and the little ca%ital came to be a literary and art centre which in a small way ri"alled its more o%ulent com%eers# PesaroBs ducal %alace is in a way a monument to the Queen 'ucreAia Borgia as is the rude fortress of the walls a memory of Gio"anni 8forAa her first husband# *t the age of twenty&si@ Gio"anni married the daughter of *lessandro Borgia who was but thirteen and brought his bride forthwith blessed with the Pa%al benediction to this bijou of a %alace where f\tes and merrymakings of a most %rodigal sort went on for many nights and days# 3Illustration) CCastel Malatesta +iminiC6

Back to the coast and one comes to +imini the southern terminus of the Jia Nmilia# +iminiBs *rco dB*ugusto was erected as a memorial to the great *ugustus in 0/ B# C# The Ponte dB*ugusto too is a monument of the times which date back nearly nineteen centuries# It was begun in the last year of the life of *ugustus# The PalaAAo del Comune contains the munici%al %icture&gallery and before it stands a bronAe statue of Po%e Paul J but the greatest interest lies in the contem%lation of the now ruined and dila%idated Castel Malatesta# Its walls are grim and sturdy still but it is nothing but a hollow mockery of a castle to&day as it has been relegated to use as a %rison and stri%%ed of all its lu@urious belongings of the days of the Malatesta# The family arms in cut stone still a%%ear abo"e the

%ortal# The chief figure of +iminiBs old time %ortrait gallery was the famous 'ord of +imini 8igismondo Malatesta a man of e@Fuisite taste a %atron of the arts a sincere lo"er of beauty# !rom +imini to +a"enna still within sight of the *driaticBs wa"es some fifty kilometres by road or rail through a low marshy unwholesome&looking region half aFuatic half terrestrial# is

'a Pineta or the Pine !orest the same whose %raises were sung by ,ante Boccaccio ,ryden and Byron and which su%%lied the timber for the Jenetian shi%s of the +e%ublicBs heyday is in full "iew from +a"ennaBs walls# Boccaccio made the Pineta the scene of his singular tale H-ostagio degli 9nestiHP the incidents of which ending in the amorous con"ersion of the ladies of +a"enna ha"e been made familiar to the English reader by ,rydenBs ado%tion of them in his HTheodore and Honoria#H H=here the last CYsarean fortress stood E"ergreen forestT which BoccaccioBs lore *nd ,rydenBs lay made haunted ground#H +a"enna sits grim and %roud in the "ery midst of wide flat marshy %lains across which straight arrow&like roads roll out seemingly interminable kilometres to the joy of the automobilist and the des%air of the tra"eller with a hired hack# The region between +a"enna and the sea is literally half land half water marshes %artitioned off by canals and %ools stretching away in e"ery direction# It is lone and strange but it is not sad and abo"e all is most im%ressi"e# Turn out of any of +a"ennaBs great gates and the as%ect is in"ariably the same# Great o@&carts %easants in the fields and far away the brown sails of the *driatic fishing boats are the only %unctuating notes of a landsca%e which is anything but gay and li"ely# It is as Holland under a mediY"al sun for mostly the sun shines brilliantly here which it does not in the 'ow Countries# +a"enna was the ancient ca%ital of the 9ccidental +oman Em%ire but to&day in its marshy site the city is in anything but the %roud estate it once occu%ied# The as%ect of the whole city is as weird and strange as that of its site# It is of far too great an area for the few thousand %allid mortals who li"e there# It has e"er been a theatre of crime disaster and disa%%ointment but its "ery walls and gateways echo a mysterious and %enetrating charm# It %ossesses e"en to&day though more or less in fragments it is true many structures dating from the fifth to the eighth centuries though of its old Palace of the CYsars but a few crumbled stones remain# +a"enna is the home of the classic ty%ical Christian architecture which went out broadcast through Euro%e in the middle ages# The Palace of Theodoric hardly e@ists as a ruin but some %oor ugly stone %iers are commonly granted the dignity of once ha"ing belonged to it as well as an ancient wall of brick# TheodoricBs tomb is in 'a +otonda a kilometre or more from +a"enna in the midst of a "ineyard# The earliest %ortrait in +a"ennaBs great gallery of notables is that of Theodoric an art&lo"ing ruler an enlightened administrator with sim%le de"out ideas and a habit of nightly "igils# +a"enna was to him a world a rich golden world %olished yet %rimiti"e# *side from its magnificent churches great# +a"ennaBs monuments are not many or

There is TheodoricBs Palace before mentioned the *rchie%isco%al Palace a restored work of the si@teenth century and the PalaAAo Go"ernati"o

built in the eighteenth century with many s%lendid fragments&&columns and the like&&of an earlier %eriod incor%orated therein# 9n the PiaAAa Jittorio Emanuele are two great granite columns erected in .5L5 by the Jenetians and some fragments of a colonnade or loggia which may be a %art of the Hall of :ustice of TheodoricBs time# 3Illustration) CPalaAAo di Teodorico +a"ennaC6 +a"enna6

3Illustration) Column to Gaston de !oi@

The tomb of ,ante is near the church of 8an !rancesco# It is an uncouth shrine which co"ers the %oetBs remains but it ranks high among those of its class from more sincere moti"es than those which usually induce one to ra"e o"er more %om%ous and more s%lendid charms# HC;ngrateful !lorenceT ,ante slee%s afarC H sang Byron# -orthward from +a"enna but in roundabout fashion whether one goes by road or rail is Comacchio# Comacchio is four kilometres from the *driatic and forty&four from !errara# *riosto called the inhabitants)&& H#### Cgente desiosa Che il mar si turbi e sieno i "enti atrociC H but this need not deter the seeker after new sensations from going there to see them catch eels on a wholesale %lan and handle them afterwards in a manner of cleanliness and with a ra%idity which is truly mar"ellous# They are caught by wholesale and a CtagliatoreC armed with a useful&looking hatchet called a CmanarinoC cho%s them into %ieces called CmorelliC# *fter this the eels are cooked on a great o%en&fire s%it and finally %acked in boiling oil like the little fishes of the Breton coast and ultimately sold and ser"ed as Chors dBoeu"resC in Italian restaurants the world o"er# -orth of Comacchio on the shore of a Jenetian lagoon is Chioggia# Chioggia has no great architectural or historical monuments but is as %aintable as Jenice itselfP indeed it is a little brother to Jenice but lacking its s%lendour and great %alaces# Its Fuay&side Madonna is "enerated by all the fishing folk round about# Jenice early conFuered Chioggia and in turn the Genoese came along and took it from their ri"al in .2/I though the Jenetians within the year got it back again# =ith such a fate e"er hanging o"er it Chioggia had not great encouragement to build great %alaces and so its inhabitants turned to fishing and ha"e always ke%t at it# ;nless one is crossing direct from !lorence to Jenice by the !uta Pass and Bologna !errara as a sto%%ing %lace on oneBs Italian itinerary is best reached from +a"enna# The road is flat generally well&conditioned and co"ers a matter of se"enty kilometres mostly within sight of the sea or lagoons more like Holland e"en than the country through which one has recently %assed# 3Illustration) CThe Madonna of ChioggiaC6 9f all the romantic +enaissance shrines of Italy none ha"e a more %otent attraction than !errara# The !errara of the Middle *ges like the !errara of to&day is a

%arado@# -o Italian 8tate of similar %ower and magnificence e"er e@erted such dis%ro%ortionate influence u%on mediY"al ItalyP no city in ;nited Italy in which are so combined the fascinating treasures of the %ast and modern %olitical and industrial enter%rise is so ignored by the casual tra"eller# 9nce the strongest %ost on the frontier of the Pa%al 8tates the seat of the House of Este the abiding %lace of TorFuato Tasso and 'udo"ico *riosto and the final marital home of 'ucreAia Borgia the golden %eriod of its si@teenth century magnificence has sunk into an isolation unheeded by contingent de"elo%ment and its inhabitants ha"e shrunken to a bare third of their former numbers# The ducal family of Este li"ed the life of the times to the limit of their %owers# They one and all inherited a taste for crimes of "arious shades just as they inherited the lo"e of art# *lfonso ,uke of !errara had no %rofound moral sense in s%ite of his finer instincts and was so Hliberal mindedH that he shocked Bayard the HCche"alier sans %eur et sans re%rocheC H into crossing himself Hmore than ten timesH as an antidote when he first came into the ducal %resence# 3Illustration) C!rom a frieAe in the PalaAAo at !erraraC6

!erraraBs castello or castel "ecchio which is better known as its ducal ch[teau is a remarkable s%ecimen of military architecture# 9n 8aint MichaelBs ,ay .2LE its first stones were %ut in %lace by Bartolina di -o"ara and the ardour of the workmen was so great that at the end of si@teen months the work was com%leted as it is to&day with its towers its doubly thick walls and all its brutal force# 3Illustration) C!erraraC6 * fosse surrounds the edifice and two gateways only gi"e access to the interior# ;nder *l%honso I certain embellishments were added to the old castle bringing it u% to the times in lu@urious decorati"e details and the like# The rude feudal castle now became "irtually a residential ch[teau# The crenelated battlements were transformed into mere %ara%ets the Cchemins de rondeC into terraces and hanging gardens# Pictures and frescoes were at this time added liberally and though to&day many of these ha"e been dis%ersed to the four corners of Euro%e enough remain to indicate the im%ortance of these new embellishments# The cachots or dungeon cells still e@ist and are regarded&&by the guardian&&as one of the chief Hsights#H 8ome others may think differently# The house of *riosto is one of !erraraBs most %o%ular attractions though indeed it is not remarkable architecturally# *riosto was one of the brilliant figures of the !errara court but his house was modest and bare as is remarked by a tablet which it bore in the %oetBs time and on which was car"ed in 'atin) HMy house is small but was built for my own con"enience and entirely with my own money#H How many householders of to&day can say the sameV In the hos%ital in the southern Fuarter of the town is still to be seen the %rison cell commonly assigned to Tasso# 9n the walls are scribbled the names of 'ord Byron and Casimir ,ela"igne and 'amartineBs "erses on Tasso and o"er the door runs the inscri%tion&& _&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&_ ` HI-G+E889 *''* P+IGI9-E ,I T9+Q;*T9 T*889#H ` _&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&_ !or se"en years and more Tasso li"ed within these four narrow walls#

H!erraraT in thy wide and grass&grown streets =hose symmetry was not for solitude There seems as Btwere a curse u%on the seats 9f former so"ereigns and the antiFue brood 9f Este#### 7 7 7 7 7

*nd Tasso is their glory and their shame#H HCChilde Harold#CH Closely bound with !errara and the fortunes of the family of Este is the town of that name midway between !errara and Padua at the foot of the Euganean Hills# The ancestral residence of the family of Este is here but in a more or less ruinous state to&day# The H+occaH or Castle of Este was erected in .252 by ;lbertino Carrara and re%aired by the 8caligers during their tem%orary %ossession of it# It is a noble dungeon tower with frowning embrasures and battlements and stands at least u%on the site of the original fortress# *lberto *AAo >born IIK? was the more immediate founder of the house here on the death of the Em%eror Henry III# The ancestry of *lberto may be traced in history to BonifaAio ,uke or MarFuis of Tuscany in L..# Poetry carries it much higher# The magician in the "ision of the enchanted shield enables +inaldo to behold Caius *ttius as his remote ancestor)&& HMostragli Caio allor chBa strane genti Ja %rima in %reda il gia inclinato Im%ero Prendere il fren deB %o%oli "olenti E farsi dBEste il Princi%e %rimieroP E a lui rico"erarsi i men %otenti Jicini a cui +ettor facea mestiero Poscia Fuando ri%assi il "arco noto * gli in"iti dBHonorio il fero Goto#H &&C9rlando !urioso#C Guel%h ,uke of Ba"aria >succeeded .1/.? from whom all the branches of the House of Brunswick are descended was the son of *lberto *AAo MarFuis of Este by his first wife Cunegunda a %rincess of the 8uabian line# !ulco I MarFuis of Italy and 'ord of Este the son of *lberto *AAo by his second wife Garisenda daughter of Herbert Count of Maine was the founder of the Italian branch from which the ,ukes of !errara and Modena descended the male line of which became e@tinct at the end of the last century# The ,uke of Modena who was de%osed in the mid&nineteenth century re%resented the house of Este in the female line &&his grandmother Maria Beatri@ ha"ing been the last descendant of the Italian branch# Este continued in the %ossession of the descendants of *lberto until .0I5 when it fell an easy conFuest to the Carraras# 8uccessi"ely a de%endency of Padua and of the Jerona 8caligers it %assed to Jenice in .51E retaining its local go"ernment and munici%al institutions# -ear Este is *rFua where Petrarch died in .2/5# It has been a literary shrine since .KE1 for a chronicler of that time remarks it as one of the things to come to Italy to see# The house is still to be seen and the sarco%hagus containing his remains and an inscri%tion beginning&& HC!rigida !rancisci lo%is hic tegit ossa PetrarceCH is before the tiny church of this little freFuented and little e@%loited "illage#

3Illustration) Casa del Petrarca

*rFua6

CH*PTE+ MJ 9- THE JI* NMI'I* The Jia Nmilia of antiFuity is a wonder to&day ke%t in a little better re%air# *s it is it is Hgood roadH in Italy and straight as an arrow the *driatic at +imini to PiacenAa through the Bologna Modena and Parma# or would be if it were as good a road as any as it runs boldly from ancient 8tates of

-o automobilist who e"er rolls off its length of 0K0 kilometres will class it as inferior to any other Italian road of its class# The following categorical mention of the cities and towns on this great +oman way %resents their "aried charms in a sufficient number surely to make the hurried north or southbound tra"eller think it worth while to AigAag about a bit in going from !lorence to Jenice in order to "isit them all# The first %lace of note after lea"ing +imini is Cesana&&H8he whose flank is washed by 8a"ioBs wa"e H ,ante wrote# Cesana is full of reminders of the %rofligate CYsar Borgia# The library of Cesana was famous in mediY"al times and held its head high among the cityBs other glories# *bo"e all was the famous +occa of Cesana a fortress ch[teau of great strength in days when feudal lords needed a warren into which they might run and hide at e"ery league# The PalaAAo Publico is a sFuare sturdy none too lo"ely building with some notable %ictures within and a statue of Pius JII who was a nati"e of the %lace# In the stirring times of the %ontificate of Gregorius MI the *"ignon Po%e sent a cut&throat Cardinal into Italy at the head of a band of soldiery who entered and %illaged Cesana in .2//# His cry at the head of his troo%s was e"er) HBloodT more bloodT <illT <illT <illTH * nice sort of a man for a Cardinal Prince of the ChurchT The highroad between Cesana and +imini %asses through the "alley of the +ubicon# Mule tracks slo%ing hills and oli"e gro"es are the chief characteristics of this "ale the s%ot where CYsar a%ocry%hally crossed the +ubicon# Historians u% to MontesFuieuBs time seemed to take it for granted but latterly it has been denied# !orli and Imola were the %rinci%al towns of +omagna the %atrimony of Catherine 8forAa and Girolamo +iario ne%hew of Po%e 8i@tus IJ# =hen the new married %air first came to their little 8tate from +ome the +enaissance was at its height and the ambitious bride sought so far as %ossible to surround herself with its s%lendours# Their reign in the east was not ha%%yP Girolamo %ro"ed a tyrant and was %rom%tly assassinated by his followers lea"ing Catherine and her fi"e children com%letely in the %ower of his murderers who made her gi"e u% her claims to her little kingdom# 8he consented or %retended to consent# 8he cons%ired with the Go"ernor of the fortress Tommaso !eo and a%%eared on its ram%arts dressed as a warrior# 8he refused to surrender and when it was recalled that she had left her children behind as hostages she cruelly re%lied) HIn time I shall ha"e others#H Catherine 8forAa was a bloodthirsty "i@en surely#

!orli was Catherine 8forAaBs own city and her defence of it against the Borgias was one of the celebrated sieges of history# 8he held out two years and then only ga"e in because she was betrayed# Her "ery reason of warring with the Borgias reflects greatly on her credit# 8he refused sim%ly to allow her son to marry the aging 'ucreAiaP Hnot so much on account of her age H said Catherine Has her morals#H Princely marriages are often carried out on different lines to&day# *lmost within sight of !orli is !aanAa a city which was under the domination of the Manfredi when CYsar Borgia took it into his head to mo"e against it# * young %rince by the name of *stor III but eighteen years of age belo"ed by all for his amiability grace and youth held its future in his hands# =hen the key of !aanAa Brisighella fell to the BorgiaBs ca%tain of artillery in the early days of -o"ember in .E11 the em%eror&like CYsar himself came forward and took command# He offered life to the dwellers within the walls if they would surrender but they would ha"e none of it for as the Borgia wrote in a letter to the ,uc dB;rbino dated from Hthe %ontifical cam% before !aanAa H a Hdramatic defence was made by the citiAens of the town#H This Hdramatic defenceH was such that it com%elled Borgia and his %a%al soldiers to go into winter Fuarters# The struggle was the longest that Borgia had yet undertaken in his cam%aigns and the women of !aanAa as did Catherine 8forAa at !orli co"ered themsel"es with glory# * daughter of a soldier of the garrison ,iamante :o"elli %ut herself at the head of a band of *maAons who took entire charge of the commissariat the handling of the munitions of war and ser"ed as sentinels re%airing the walls e"en when breached&&rough work for women# HThe women of !aanAa ha"e sa"ed the honour of Italy H wrote Isabella dBEste in .E1. to her husband the ,uke of Mantua and CYsar Borgia himself committed himself to %a%er with the following words) H=ould that I had an entire army of the women of !aanAa#H The city fell in due time and the crafty CYsar honoured the gallant Manfredi Hcrowned with the laurels of "alour and misfortune H by allowing him Ha guard of honour and all his %ro%er dignities#H 'ater the Borgia re%ented of his generosity and sent the young and gallant %rince to +ome and im%risoned him in the Castle of 8antB*ngelo for a year# !aanAa is a "ery ancient town and less %o%ulous to&day than it was fifty years ago when also it was less %o%ulous than it was fi"e hundred years ago# Imola the se"enth %lace of im%ortance on the Nmilian itinerary counting from +imini was the ancient !orum Cornelii but by CharlemagneBs time it had already become known by its %resent name# In the middle ages ImolaBs geogra%hical %osition midway between Bologna and +omagna made it an im%ortant acFuisition in the contests for %ower# It was successfully held by many different chiefs and was united to the 8tates of the Church under :ulius II# *s one of the stations on the Nmilian =ay it was a %lace of some im%ortanceP it is mentioned by Cicero and by Martial)&& H8i "eneris unde reFuiret NmiliY dices de regione "iY# 8i Fuibus in terris Fua simus in urbe rogabit Corneli referas me licet esse !oro#H The fortress ch[teau of Imola was almost identical in form with that of !orli Fuadrilateral with four great towers at the angles and a crenelated battlement at the skyline# CYsar Borgia brought this fortress to ignoble surrender in .5II but since the fortress was then Fuite inde%endent of the city he had still

another task before him before the inhabitants actually came within his %owers# * fortnight after the ca%ture of the fortress the city itself fell# Imola was a %art of the marriage CdotC of Catherine 8forAa who confided its defence to ,ionigi di -aldo while she busied herself at !orli where she reigned as widow and inheritor of +iario 8forAa# 9n towards Bologna one %asses Castel 8an Pietro a thirteenth century fortified town still slee%ing its dull time away since no war or rumours of war gi"e it concern# Quaderna e"en less %rogressi"e and im%ortant to&day than its neighbour was the im%ortant station of Claternum in the days when traffic on the great Nmilian way was greater than now# BolognaBs towers and domes loom large on the horiAon as one draws u% on this great ca%ital from any direction# Bologna because of its easy access is one of the %o%ular tourist %oints of Italy and for that reason it is omitted from nobodyBs itinerary though most hurried tra"ellers remember the CmortadellaC better than they do the cathedral which in truth is nothing "ery fine so far as architectural master%ieces go# The roads in and out of Bologna are Fuite the best to be found neighbouring u%on a large city in Italy# They shall not be described further the mere statement that this is so should be taken as sufficient %raise# The streets within the gates too though %a"ed are s%lendidly straight and smooth though encumbered at one or two awkward corners with tram tracks# The "isitor to Bologna may take his ease at the Hotel Brun Fuite the most CdistinguishedC hotel in all Italy not e"en e@ce%ting ,aniellis or the Grand at Jenice each of them a %alaAAo of long ago# 3Illustration) B9'9G-* >diagram?6 The Hotel Brun is a red brick %alace of im%osing %resence with a delightful courtyard where you may stable your automobile along side of those of most of the touring nobility of Euro%e at a cost of two and a half francs a night# The hotel in s%ite of this is e@cellent in e"ery way# Bologna is surrounded by a city wall %ierced by twel"e gateways and thus well %reser"es its mediY"al effect in s%ite of its theatres cafUs and restaurants which are decidedly modern and unlo"ely# Bologna when it was conFuered by the Gauls took the name of Bononia# ;nder Charlemagne it became a free city and had for its de"ice the eFui"alent of the word 'iberty# Bologna the ancient city %roud in the middle ages and inde%endent always has e"er been the cradle of disturbing factions a re"olutionary %recursor of new ideas and has been sold and sold again by first one :udas and then another# Bologna is taking its history its %resent day %ros%erity and its still e@isting mediY"al monuments into consideration the most im%ressi"e and im%osing of all the secondary cities of Italy indeed in many of the things that im%ress the tra"eller it is ahead far ahead of !lorence# Paul Jan Herle a fifteenth century ,utchman first called the city CBologna la GrassaC because of the o%ulency of the good things of the table which might be had here# Its wines and its gra%es are su%erlati"e and its CmortadellaC or Bologna sausage is to many a delicacy without an eFual#

3Illustration) CThe 'eaning Towers of BolognaC6 Bologna seems to ha"e a s%ecialty of leaning towers though the school histories and geogra%hies always use that of Pisa to illustrate those architectural curiosities# Their histories are "ery romantic and the mere fact that they are out of %er%endicular takes nothing away from their charm# The two leaning brick towers of BolognaBs PiaAAa di Porta +a"egnana the Torri *sinelli and the Torri Gorisenda the first nearly a hundred metres in height and the latter about half that height are two of the most remarkable structures e"er erected by the hand of man# The *sinelli tower was built in ..1I and its neighbour achie"ed its com%letion in the following year# which ne"er

!rom Bologna to Modena is thirty&two kilometres and midway is Castel !ranco or !orte ;rbano as it is "ariously known# It was formerly the !orum Gallorum of the +omans and still has its CcastelC little changed from what it was in the days when ;rban JIII built it# Modena is mostly confounded by hurried tra"ellers with Modane though the latter is merely a railway junction where one is tumbled out in the middle of the night to make his %eace with railway and customs officials# ModenaBs PalaAAo ,ucale now the PalaAAo +eale was and is a "ast gaudy construction not lo"ely but o"er%owering with a certain crude grandeur# * military school has now turned it to %ractical use# It ne"er could ha"e been good for much else# * %icture gallery and CYsar dBEsteBs famous library are Fuartered in the *lbergo *rti built by the ,uke !rancesco III in the se"enteenth century# The library CBiblioteca EstenseC was brought from !errara in .EIL by CYsar dBEste on his e@%ulsion by Clement JIII# It contained .11 111 "olumes and 2 111 M88# Three of the most learned men in Italy during the last century&&Oaccaria Tiraboschi and Muratori&&were its librarians# *mongst the treasures were a gos%el of the third century a ,ante with miniature of the fourteenth century a collection of se"eral hundred Pro"enWal %oems etc# Modena was the birth%lace of Mary of Modena the fascinating %rincess who became the Italian Queen of the English %eo%le the consort of :ames II# 8he was an Italian Princess of the house of Este# Her mother was the ,uchess 'aura of Modena daughter of Count MartinoAAi and Margaret MaAarini cousin of the great Cardinal MaAarin and she was married under his aus%ices at the Cha%el +oyal of Com%iXgne in .KEE by %ro@y to *lfonso dBEste hereditary Prince and afterwards ,uke *lfonso IJ of Modena# =hen 'ord Peterborough the en"oy of the ,uke of $ork was shown the %ortrait of the Princess Mary he saw Ha young Creature about !ourteen years of *geP but such a light of Beauty such Characters of Ingenuity and Goodness as it sur%rised him and fi@t u%on his Phancy that he had found his Mistress and the !ortune of England#H He made e"ery effort to meet her %ersonally but in "ainP so he was introduced Hby means such as might seem accidental H to the *bbU +iAAini who was em%loyed at Paris to negotiate the interests of the House of Este# This man attributed Hmany e@cellencies to Mary of Modena yet he endea"oured to make them uselessH to them by saying that she and her mother wished that she might take the "eil# It was later learned that obstacles were %ut in the ,uke of $orkBs way until he announced his willingness to become a +oman Catholic# +eggio in Nmilia %assed on the road to Parma is a snug little town

su%%osedly the birth%lace of *riosto# * house so marked com%els %o%ular admiration but again it is %ossible that he was born within the citadel since raAed# 3Illustration) P*+M*6 The ,uchies of Parma and Modena counted little in the %olitical balance in their day but the f\tes and s%ectacles of their courts were freFuently brilliant# The ,uchy of Parma and of PiacenAa was created in .E5E by the Po%e Paul III for his son Pietro !arnese# 'ittle of ParmaBs mediY"al character remains to&day# The town is said to ha"e been called Parma from its similarity to the form of a shield# But the torrent Parma which runs through the city crossed by three bridges besides the railway bridge most %robably ga"e its name to the city which arose u%on the banks# =hen the city was under the authority of the Po%es it was re%resented by a female figure sitting on a %ile of shields and holding a figure of Jictory with the inscri%tion of CParma aureaC# 'et the heraldic students figure out any solution of the incident that they %lease or are able# The Jia Nmilia di"ides the city by means of the 8trada MYstra into two "ery nearly eFual %arts# Parma like Modena and 'ucca has changed its fortification walls into boule"ards called H8tradone H which are the fa"ourite rendeA"ous for Parmesan high society when it goes out for a stroll# -ear Parma is Canossa the site of an old fortified town one day of considerable im%ortance but now decayed beyond ho%e# Here the Em%eror Henry IJ bareheaded and barefooted su%%licated Po%e Gregory J in .1// an incident of history not yet forgotten by the annalists of church and state# 8oon after lea"ing Parma the +oman road crosses the ri"er Taro the boundary frontier which shut off the Gaulish from the 'igurian tribes# The Brothers of the Bridge here built a great work of masonry in ../1 obtaining money for the e@%ense of the work by begging from the tra"ellers %assing to and fro on the Nmilian =ay# In time this old bridge was carried away and for centuries a ferry boat ser"ed the %ur%ose until in fact the %resent structure came into being# Borgo 8an ,onino some twenty kilometres beyond the Taro marks the shrine of 8an ,onino a soldier in the army of Ma@imilian who became a Christian and refused to worshi% as commanded by his Em%eror# !or this he was %ut to death on this s%ot and for e"er after Borgo 8an ,onino has been one of the most freFuented %laces of %ilgrimage in Italy# !iorenAuola still on the Jia Nmilia a doAen kilometres farther on has still an old tower to which hang fragments of an enormous chain by which criminals once were bound and swung aloft# *ll through this fertile abundant region through which runs the famous +oman +oad are numerous little CborgosC or "illages bearing names famous in the history of Italy and its contem%orary minor states# PiacenAa was founded by the Gauls and was afterwards by the +omans named Placentia# It has e"er %ros%ered though its career has been fraught more than once with danger of e@tinction# By the tenth century its great trading fair was famous throughout Euro%e# 3Illustration) PI*CE-O*6 PiacenAa is full of %alaces statues and monuments which merit the

consideration of all serious minded %ersons but the automobilist who has made the last fifty kilometres of the Jia Nmilia in the rain&&and how much it does rain in Italy only one who has tra"elled there by road for weeks really a%%reciates&&is first concerned as to where he may lay his head and house his car free from harm# The Grand Hotel 8an Marco answers his needs well enough and has the endorsement of the Touring Club de !rance as well as that of the Italian Touring Club but it is ridiculous that one is obliged to %ay in a smug little Italian town of thirty&fi"e thousand inhabitants fi"e francs a night for housing his automobile# PiacenAa is on the direct road to the Italian 'akes "ia Milan which it is distant se"enty kilometres# from

CH*PTE+ MJI I- JE-ETI* The mainland background of Jenice in its most com%rehensi"e sense the region lying north of the Po and south and west of the *ustrian frontier is not a much&tra"elled region by any class of tourists in Italy# The tra"eller by rail usually comes u% from Bologna and !lorence and with a sto% at Padua makes for Jenice forthwith and lea"es for the Italian lake region sto%%ing en route at Jerona# The automobilist too often does the thing e"en more %reci%itately by taking Padua and Jerona flying or at least while he is sto%%ing to re%lenish the inner man or the inner claims of his automobile# Certain readers of this book who may %erha%s ha"e done the thing a little more thoroughly may claim that this is an e@aggeration and so far as it a%%lies to their %articular case it may be but the writer honestly belie"es that it fits astonishingly well with the majority of Italian itineraries in these %arts# He bases this on the fact that he has seen tourists in dro"es in Padua and Jerona and he has not seen one in Este Monselice Battaglia or e"en in JicenAa Tre"iso *solo or ;dine# 3Illustration) P*,;*6 Jerona JicenAa and Padua were the ca%itals of three of the eight ancient %ro"inces of JeneAia# Padua is built in the midst of a "ast %lain Italian&!landers# In e"erything but climate 'ow Countries and the city with its domes the low&lying %lain faint and ghostly from desert# which merits being called it is like a section of the and towers looms u% o"er afar like a mirage of the

Canals and fortress walls enclose the city e"en to&day and the nearer one a%%roaches until one actually sees it from within the walls the less and less Padua becomes like Italy# The greatest interest of Padua centres undoubtedly in its church of 8antB*ntonio dedicated to the %ious com%anion of !rancis of *ssisiP after that the ;ni"ersity which numbered among its masters Erasmus Mantius and Galileo and among its students ,ante Tasso and Petrarch# Padua is intimately associated with the name of Petrarch by reason of his ha"ing been a student here# Petrarch died before ChaucerBs time but the !lorentineBs fame had gone afield and from the HClerkBs TaleH one recalls the following) H'erned at Padowe of a worthy clerk !raunceys Petrark the laureat %oete

Highte this clerk whose rethorike sweet Enlumined al Itaille of %oetrye#H Padua in s%ite of its low lying situation is monumental at e"ery turn# They had courage the old builders to %lant great buildings down in the morass and faith to belie"e they would last as long as they ha"e# 9n PaduaBs great PiaAAas&&there are three of them one leading out of the other&&rise the chief ci"ic buildings of mediY"al times# The 'oggia del Consiglio is an astonishingly am%le +enaissance work of an early %eriod access to its great hall being by a monumental e@terior stairway# *n ancient column with a 8an Marco lion is immediately in front# The PalaAAo Ca%itano with its sky %iercing clock tower of the fourteenth century was formerly the residence of the Jenetian Go"ernor and the PalaAAo della +agione known as Il 8alone contains one of the "astest single roofed a%artments known# There is a long unobstructed corridor in the mosFue of 8aint 8o%hia at Constantino%le which holds the record in its line but the 8alone of Padua built in .501 is %re&eminent in su%erficial area# The ancient Palace of the Carrera tyrants of Padua is one of the things that burn themsel"es in the mind from the sheer inability of one to o"erlook them# =hen one sees the colossal frescoes of the Entrance Hall one re%eats unconsciously the dictum of Jictor Hugo o"er Madame ,or"al&&the beautiful Madame ,or"al) C:e ne "eu@ %as mourirC# It is the fashion to Fuote ,ante and Byron and 8helley in Italy but a little of *lfred de Musset is a cheerful relief# Here are some of his lines on Padua) 3Illustration) In Padua6 HPadoue est un fort bel endroit 9b de trXs&grands docteurs en droit 9n fait mer"eilleP Mais jBaime mieu@ la %olenta QuBon mange au@ bords de la Brenta 8ous un treille#H The *lbergo !anti&8tella dB9ro at Padua is all sufficient as a tourist hotel but lacks a good deal of what a hotel for automobilists should be# There is accommodation for oneBs automobile in the coach house but it e"idently is a se%arately owned concern for when you come to take your auto out you will be followed like a thief when you try to e@%lain that you %refer to %ay the garage charges when you %ay your hotel bill# $ou may eat C] la carteC in the hotel restaurant at any hour and you may ha"e a room across the way in the anne@ a better room and for a smaller %rice than you can ha"e at the *lbergo itself# *ltogether this o%era bouffe hotel is neither bad nor good and most confusing as to its %ersonnel and their conduct# They need to ha"e a H=hoBs =ho H %rinted in German !rench and English to %ut into the hands of each guest on arri"al# The automobilist has not yet reached Jenice# The nearest that he may come to it is to Mestre where he may garage his automobile in any one of half a doAen %alatial establishments es%ecially de"oted to the %ur%ose# Mestre of absolutely no rank whate"er as a city of art or architecture or sights for the tourist has more automobile garages than any other city in Italy# The s%lendour of Jenice is undeniable whether one takes note of its uniFue architecture or of its remarkable site# Men with courage to build

gilded and marble %alaces on a half submerged chain of isles scarce abo"e the le"el of the sea do not li"e to&day# How well these early builders %lanned is e"inced by the fact that Jenice the magnificent e@ists to&day as it always has e@isted&&all but the Cam%anile# The fall of this shows what may ha%%en some day to the rest of this regal city# =henV -o one knows# Men conFuered the morass in the first instance# Can they hold it in subjection into eternityV Jenice with all its gorgeousness is just the least bit CtristeC# -ot a tree worthy of the name not a garden or a farm yard not a cart or a horse&&and not an automobile is to be found within its %urlieus# 9ne is as if in %rison# * watery barrier surrounds one on e"ery side# The sea always the sea mostly mirror&like or gently la%%ing its wa"es at your "ery feet&&and black gondolas e"erywhere# $es Jenice is gorgeous if you like but how sad it is alsoT The greatness of Jenice dates from the time of the fourth crusade and the taking of Constantino%le# It was then that the Jenetian shi%s became the chief carriers between the east and the westP its "essels e@%orted the sur%lus wealth of the 'ombard %lain and brought in return not only the timber and stone of Istria and ,almatia but the manufactured wares of Christian Constantino%le wines of the Greek isles and the 9riental silks car%ets and s%ices of Mohammedan Egy%t *rabia and Bagdad# There used to be an old time saying at Jenice that if the Isthmus of 8ueA were %ierced with a canal the glory of Jenice would once more shine on the commercial world as well as shed its radiance o"er those who li"e in the s%here of art# The 8ueA Canal has come but %ro%hets are not infallible and the %resent maritime glory of the *driatic lies with Trieste and !iume with Jenice a shadowy fifth or si@th in the whole of Italy# It is an historic fact that may well be re%eated here that Jenice more than any other city of Italy has e"er been noted for its %assion for amusements and uncon"entional %leasures# H!or Fuite half of the year H said MontesFuieu He"erybody wears a masFueP manners are "ery free and the %assion for gaming immense#H * more "i"id descri%tion of all this Jenetian disregard for con"ention may be found in the memoirs of the Jenetian ad"enturer Casano"a# The "isitor to Jenice must seek out for himself the things that interest him with the aid of his guide&book his hotel %orter or his gondolier# -ot all its s%lendours can be %ointed out hereP the record of the author and artist is a %ersonal recordP others if they will may choose a different itinerary# The greatest fascination of all in Jenice is undoubtedly the gondola though the motor boat is %ushing it hard for a %lace and there be those matter&of&fact hurried tourists who %refer the %racticality of the latter to the sim%licity and romance of the former# The gondola still reigns howe"er and %robably always will# ItBs an asset for drawing tourists as %otent as the lions or horses of 8an Marco or the %igeons of the PiaAAas# The Jenetian cannot ste% without his door without taking a gondola for his %romenade on the Grand Canal to cross to the 'ido or to go to church when he marries and when he dies# The gondola is as much a %art of the daily life of the Jenetian as is the street car or the omnibus elsewhere# Though it doesnBt look it the gondola is the most manageable craft %ro%elled by man# It snakes in and out of crooked waterways and comes to a landing with far less fuss than anything e"er %ushed by steam or

gasoline# *ll the same they are not as swift though their %ace is astonishing when one considers their bulk and weight# It has been the fashion to laud the sweet idealism of the gondola and all that a%%ertains thereto not forgetting the gondolier but when one has heard that backwater sailorBs cajoleries and cadences beneath his window for most of the long night oneBs "iews in the morning will be considerably modified# HCousin of my dogTH the gondolier will call his gondola H9wlTH HIdiotTH H8heriff of the ,e"ilTH H8illy *ssTH HMiscreant of +hodesTH and HBag of Bones#H 8uch e%ithets shouted full and strong if only to an inanimate gondola will take a good deal of idealism out of nature# =ith the Jenetian %alaces and churches and canals rank in %o%ular interest its great %iaAAas# The im%ortance of these great o%en s%aces in the daily life of the %eo%le of the island city cannot be o"erestimated# Gaiety noise and life are the characteristics of each whether one is at 8an Marco or on the +ialto# Gastronomical delights in Italy are largely of oneBs own choosing# *t Jenice where of Italian cities the tourist is most largely catered to one may fare well or ill# ItBs a great e@%erience to sit at one of the little tables at !lorianBs or at the *urora on the o%%osite side of the PiaAAa of 8an Marco and leisurely enjoy the s%ectacle s%read out before one# *t any time of the day or night it is the most burning fe"erish s%ot in all the Jenetian archi%elago though at midday it is true the sun&baked PiaAAa is deserted e"en by the %igeons# In the afternoon as the shadows lengthen and a slim sus%icion of a sea&breeAe wafts in from the lagunes it is fairyland %eo%led if not with fairyfolk at least with as conglomerate a horde as may be seen in Euro%e# *s a %erformance the %iece were almost worthy of its settingP it is a burlesFue and a comedy of manners in one# If only you are Hout of season H when the English and *mericans and Germans are still by their own firesides and the cast of characters is made u% of the %eo%les of the south and east the comedy is all the more amusing and you si% its charms as you si% your coffee and forget that such a %ersonage as Baedeker e"er e@isted# ;sually tourists come to the PiaAAa after they ha"e done the surrounding stock sights to buy two soldi&worth of maiAe and feed the %igeons# They would do better to watch the %assing show from the "antage %oint of a little table at !lorianBs# Besides its treasures of art and architecture one of the sights of Jenice is !lorianBs celebrated for a hundred and fifty years# The s%ecialty of !lorianBs is the Csabaion doroC made with the yellow of an egg and a small glass of Malaga# It is not bad but it is a ladiesB drink for it is sweet# The CsorbetsC the cafU turcB and the "anilla chocolates of the establishment with the aforementioned golden concoction ha"e %laced it in the "ery front rank among establishments of its class# It remains o%en or did a few years ago all night# *t fi"e oBclock each morning as the daylight gun went off from the fortress of the 'ido !lorianBs %ut u% its shutters only to o%en just before midday# The names of the great who ha"e gathered within the walls of this famous cafU and left memories behind them would fill a long roster# Chateaubriand ManAoni Byron Cimarosa Cano"a 'Uo%old&+obert *lfred de Musset BalAac and others many many others# *nd many ha"e left behind written sou"enirs of their "isit# 9ne thing the stranger to Jenice will remark and that is that here much as in any other %lace in Italy one is %estered nearly to as

distraction with the little He@trasH of their hotel bills of the too&im%ortunate guides of door&o%eners and door shutters of guardians of all ranks of men and boys who call your gondola for you and of mendicant ragamuffins by %rofession or merely because occasion offered and you looked like an Heasy mark#H It is the one blight on Jenice# The modest inns of other days ha"e gi"en way to the demands of a more e@acting clientXle but those who would follow *lfred de Musset and George 8and from the Palace of the ,oges to the Hotel ,anieli will ha"e no trouble in getting a lodging in that hostelry# 9r they may %refer to follow the footste%s of Chateaubriand >who in truth was antici%ating a rendeA"ous with the ,uchesse de Berry? to the neighbouring Hotel de lBEuro%e# 3Illustration) P*'*CE8 Cof the G+*-, C*-*'C JE-ICE6 JeniceBs Grand Canal is naturally the chief delight of the "isiting stranger# The CanalaAAo is from fifty to se"enty metres wide with a length of three kilometres# * hundred and fifty or more %alaces line its banks most of them bearing famous names of history# 8ho%kee%ers and manufacturers of "arious sorts occu%y many of them but they are still ca%able of staggering any otherwise blasU curiosity&seekers# The accom%anying ma% with these %alaces %lainly marked should ser"e its %ur%ose better than Fuires of %rinted %ages# 8hakes%eareBs H:ew of JeniceH was no myth whate"er the shadowy e@istence of :uliet and ,esdemona may ha"e been# Jenice in the middle ages had its Ghetto >a word which in Hebrew means Hcut offH or Hshut offH? where the :ews herded together and wore scarlet mantles in %ublic that they might be known and recogniAed by faith and %rofession# The %rinci%al character of HThe Merchant of JeniceH was a "ery real entity and 8hakes%eare belie"ing the saying of Tacitus wrote him down truthfully as a man scru%ulously faithful to his engagements charitable to others of his race but filled with an in"incible hatred towards all other men# 3Illustration) CThe 8o&called HHouse of ,esdemona H JeniceC6 *nother Jenetian ty%e not wholly disa%%eared to&day is that of the Jenetian blonde of Titian Jeronese and Giorgione a ty%e of feminine beauty unknown elsewhere# Italians are commonly brunettes and indeed %erha%s the Jenetians were of the same CteintC one day# In the 'ibrary of 8an Marco is a %archment of CYsar Jecelli a Cousin of Titian coming from the collections of the %atrician -ani# It describes how there were built at Jenice many house to%s with sun %arlours or CterraAiC# To these CterraAiC the women of the city of the ,oges who would bleach their hair by natural means would re%air and let the sun do its work# Casano"a too remarked the feminine beauties of the Queen of the *driatic# He said of one of them) HI am content indeed to find so beautiful a creature# I do not concei"e how so ra"ishing a creature could ha"e li"ed so long in Jenice without ha"ing married ere now#H *s night draws down the scene at Jenice changes manifestly from what it was in the garish sunlight of day# It becomes softer and more fairylike# *cross the PiaAAetta the rosy flush still glints from the tower of the island 8an Giorgio though in the immediate neighbourhood day has %ractically blackened into night# * sunset gun sounds from seaward and here and there lights twinkle out when in the magic of a "ery short twilight another scene is set a more wonderful more fairylike scene than before with a coming and going of firefly gondolas and boats a streaming of arcs and incandescents on shore and in the midst of it all a brass band arri"es in front of 8an Marco and begins to bray

ragtime waltAes and serenades# The note may be a false one but it reiterates the fact that one may sit before his table at !lorianBs all through the li"elong day and night and see and hear the whole gamut of joyousness %layed as it is nowhere else# The townfolk the strangers from the hotels and sailor folk from the 'ido and the Guiadecca all mingle in a seemingly ine@tricable maAe# These last are the most %icturesFue note as to costuming and colouring in all Jenice to&day# The fishermen of the Guiadecca swarthy hued and scarlet&ca%%ed and with hea"y hoo%s of gold hanging from their ears stroll about the %iaAAa as is their right mingling with tourists and the Hreal Jenetians#H *ll mo"e about in li"ely measure like an o%eratic chorus but with a much more graceful and less conscious gait# -ight on the PiaAAa or the PiaAAetta is not the least of JeniceBs charms# The background hills bordering u%on the Jenetian %lain are a "ery interesting corner of northern Italy# Throughout this region sou"enirs are not wanting of the glorious days of the Jenetian +e%ublic# !or her own %rotection Jenice conFuered the surrounding mainland as she was laying the foundations of the island metro%olis# Tre"iso fell to her %ermanently in .22I and ;dine in .501 as did later many other towns to the south# !rom this time forth the lion of 8an Marco reared its head from its %edestal in the market %lace of each of these allied towns# 8ome fi"e thousand sFuare miles of ,almatia came to Jenice at this time and thenceforth her %osition was assured# Jenice was occu%ied by the !rench in ./I/ when -a%oleon o"erthrew the +e%ublic# It was the first time the city had e"er been occu%ied by an enemy# It was gi"en to *ustria by a succeeding treaty but later in .L1E was made o"er definitely to Italy# Tre"iso on the highroad from Jenice to Jienna is a great o"ergrown burg which li"es chiefly in the historic %ast of the days when first it became a bisho%Bs see and was known as Tro"isium the ca%ital of the %ro"ince of the same name# * story is current of Tre"iso that once the %eo%le to celebrate one of the infreFuent inter"als of %eace had summoned all the neighbouring %o%ulations to a s%lendid festi"al# *mong other amusements they had %ro"ided a mimic castle of wood adorned in the most sum%tuous manner# =ithin this castle were stationed the twel"e most beautiful ladies of Padua with their attendant maidens loaded down with all kinds of flowers and fruits# The chosen youths of the neighbouring cities ad"anced in bands to attack the fortress defended by such a garrison# The ladies made a long and "igorous defence# But finally a band of Jenetians %ressed forward through the rain of %rojectiles breached the walls and %lanted on them the banner of 8an Marco# The youth of Padua inflamed at this sight %ressed forward in turn to force their way inside the fortifications# The two bands were crushed together in the breachP angry words aroseP from words both %arties came to blowsP the Paduans %ro"ed the stronger and in the struggle seiAed on the banner of 8an Marco and tore it to shreds# =ith difficulty the Tre"isans restored order and dro"e both %arties out of the town# The Jenetians flew to arms to demand satisfaction for the outrage to their flag# The Go"ernment of Padua refused it# Hence a war between the two cities in which the Paduans were worsted# !rom Tre"iso to Belluno and thence by the *m%esso Pass is one of the gateways leading from the Italian %lain into *ustria# !eltre en route has a fine old H+occa H or castle with a sFuare donjon tower# En route to Belluno one should if he comes this way at all branch off

to *solo# *mong the many hundreds of "isitors to Jenice who formerly climbed to the to% of the Cam%anile of 8an Marco in order to enjoy the wonderful %anorama of the Jenetian %lain and mountains which it affords few %robably recall the distant little city of *solo which the guide %ointed out to them unless indeed they ha%%en to be familiar with +obert BrowningBs %oems in which case they will %erha%s wish to make a %ilgrimage out into these background hills the %oet lo"ed so well) HMy *solo H as he called it in the introduction to the last "olume of his %oems H*solando H written during his stay there in .LLI# * tri% among the *solan Hills will well re%ay not only the lo"er of %oetry but also the artist and the ordinary tra"eller with a liking for Fuiet %icturesFue s%ots off the ordinary beaten track# 3Illustration) *89'96 The *lbergo *solo in the main street offers clean and characteristic accommodation with charges to corres%ond# 9ne turns off to *solo from Cornuda a station on the Belluno line or by road from the same %lace# The im%osing ruined +occa is well worthy of a "isit for the sake of the e@tensi"e "iew obtainable from the hill on which it stands# 9n a clear day the towers of Jenice can be seen without a glass and on e"ery side the "iew is remarkably fine# To the north beyond the nearer range of mountains are "isible se"eral %eaks in the Primiero grou% of ,olomites&&the 8asso del Mur 8agron and others# *nother good %oint of "iew is the belfry tower of the old Castello which was the residence of Queen Cornaro the de%osed Queen of Cy%rus whose gay court made the name of *solo famous at the end of the fifteenth century# !rom Tre"iso the road to ;dine %asses Conegliano with a fine castle of im%osing %ro%ortions and a Trium%hal *rch erected in the nineteenth century to the Em%eror of *ustria# Pordenone ten kilometres farther on is the old Portus -aonis of the +omans# This is almost its sole claim to fame e@ce%t that HIl Pordenone H a celebrated fifteenth century artist was born here# Codroi%o actually a %lace of no im%ortance to&day takes its name from the crossing of two celebrated +oman roads of antiFuity# Codroi%o by a "ague etymological seFuence is su%%osed to ha"e the same meaning as carrefour in !rench i#e# CFuadri"iumC# *t Cam%o !ormico just before ;dine is reached Bona%arte and the Em%eror of *ustria signed the treaty in 9ctober ./I/ by which Jenice was so shamefully sacrificed by the !rench general to *ustria# It was one of the dee%est blots in the %olitical history of -a%oleon# The mean house in which this disastrous treaty was concluded is still %ointed out# It was in the Jilla Passarino near ;dine that this infamous treaty saw the light# Its gardens to&day are of the mi@ed formal and landsca%e "ariety and great renown belongs to it because of the %rominence of the Manins its early owners# Borghetti restored the fabric in ./K2 and it remains to&day a far more satisfactory structure to look at than many which are architecturally entitled to rank on a higher %lane# Cy%ress and oak form the greater %art of the "erdure of the gardens# ;dine of the %icturesFue name is a city of twenty thousand inhabitants once the ca%ital of !riuli and still surrounded by its ancient walls# In the centre is the castle now a %rison built in .E./ by Gio"anni !ontana on the height chosen by *ttila to "iew the burning of *Fuileja# ;dine %resents many features of resemblance in its buildings to the mother city to whose rule it was so long subjected) it has its grand sFuare its PalaAAo Publico >.5E/?&&a fine Gothic building on %ointed arches instead of the ,ogeBs %alace&&the two

columns the winged lion of 8an Marco and a cam%anile with two figures to strike the hours# ;dine is indeed a little Jenice all but the canals and Fuays and the *driaticBs wa"es# 8outh of ;dine on the marshy shore of the same series of lagoons which surround Jenice itself is *Fuileja# *Fuileja was in ancient times one of the most im%ortant %ro"incial cities of +ome and one of the chief bulwarks of Italy# *ugustus often resided here and its %o%ulation was then estimated at .11 111# It was taken by *ttila in 5E0 and reduced to ashes by that ferocious barbarian# It contains at %resent about . E11 inhabitants and e"en they ha"e a hard time clinging to the shreds of life left them by a climate that is %estilential and dam%# !rom Jenice and Tre"iso the 8trada di Grande CommunicaAione runs to JicenAa and Jerona the former K2 kilometres from Tre"iso and the latter E1 kilometres farther on# *t JicenAa the highroad is joined by another trunk&line from Padua 20 kilometres to the southwest# *ll of these roads are %ractically flat and are good roads in good weather and bad roads&&9T how badT&&in bad weather# 3Illustration) JICE-O*6 !ew strangers sto% off at JicenAa on the line from Jerona to Jenice# JicenAa then is not lettered large in the guide books and has only a%%eared of late in the %ublic %rints because of being the home of the romancer *ntonio !ogaAAora# This makes it a literary shrine at all e"ents so we sto%%ed to look it o"er# It was more than thisP we first saw JicenAa by moonlight and its silhouettes and shadows were as grimly ancient as if seen in a dream# ,aylight disco"ered other charms# There were warm lo"able old +enaissance house fronts e"erywhere with o"erhanging tiled roofs and ad"anced grilled balconiesP and there was the PiaAAa dei 8ignori and its surrounding houses almost entirely the work of the architect Palladio# The Munici%io itself was not a dead dull thing in drab stone but with a warm red tower brought entire it is said from Jenice along with two columns of the faWade which are borne aloft on two scul%tured lions# JicenAa the neglected tourist %oint glad we came# was offering much and we were

JicenAa more than any other of the little freFuented tourist cities of Italy may be counted as CtheC city of %alaces# They are of two non&contem%orary styles the Jenetian semi&gothic of a good era and PalladioBs classical co%ies also good of their kind %articularly so when seen here in their natural en"ironment# In the Corso is a curious monumental structure called the Casa di Palladio built it is said by the great architect for his own use# He had need for it as his work here was great and long in com%letion# It is something more than a mere architectBs office or bureauP it is in fact a %alace# 9ne of the most curious buildings in the city and certainly one of the most remarkable with which the name of Palladio is connected is the Teatro 9lim%ico# Contrary to the architectBs manner of working the edifice has no faWade being entirely surrounded by houses# It was begun in .EL1 but in conseFuence of his death almost immediately afterwards it was com%leted by his son 8cilla# The scenery which is fi@ed re%resents the side of a s%ecies of %iaAAa from which di"erge streets of real ele"ation but diminishing in siAe as they recede in the %ers%ecti"e# * great effect of distance is obtained es%ecially in the middle a"enue# ,aylight howe"er by which a tra"eller

usually sees it

is injurious to the effect#

PalladioBs architectural ideas went abroad e"en to England and many a Hstately homeH in Britain to&day is a more or less faithful co%y of a JicenAa si@teenth century %alaAAo# 3Illustration) CJicenAaC6 The +otonda Ca%ra now in ruins so well known as PalladioBs "illa was co%ied by 'ord Burlington and %lanted sFuat down on the banks of the Thames at Chiswick# It loses considerably by trans%ortationP it were decidedly more effecti"e at the base of Monte Berico in JeneAia# Palladio himself is buried in the local Cam%o 8anto# His gra"e should become an art lo"erBs shrine but no one has e"er been known to worshi% at it# Between JicenAa and Jerona runs a charming highway strewn with "illas of a highly interesting if not su%erlati"ely grand architectural order# * doAen or fifteen kilometres from JicenAa are the two castles of Montecchio the strongholds of the family of the name celebrated by 8hakes%ere as one of the ri"als of the Ca%ulets# *t the Bridge of *rcole is an obelisk in commemoration of the battle when -a%oleon went against the *ustrians after his check at Caldiero# 8oa"e a little further on is an old walled town as mediY"al in its looks and doings as it was when its great gates and towers and its castle fortress on the height were built si@ centuries ago# Jerona is reached in thirty kilometres and has a sentimental romantic interest beyond that %ossessed by any of the secondary cities of Italy# It has not the great wealth of notable architectural s%lendours of many other %laces but what there is is su%erlati"ely grand the structures surrounding the PiaAAa Erbe and the PiaAAa dei 8ignori for instanceP the old Ponte di Castel JecchioP the great +oman *renaP and e"en the *lbergo allB*ccademia where one is remarkably well cared for in a fine old mediY"al %alace with a monumental gateway and an iron and car"ed stone well in the courtyard# 3Illustration) C8eal of JeronaC6 The glory and sentiment which o"ershadowed the Jerona of another day ha"e %assed and now the noise of electric trams and the hoot of automobile horns awaken the echoes in the same thoroughfares where one day tram%led the feet of warring hosts# HThe glory of the 8caliger has %assed The Ca%uletti and Montague are naught)H Instead we ha"e the modern note sounding o"er all and if it is true that the Hfair :uliet slee%s in old JeronaBs townH hers must be a disturbed slee%# The romance of :uliet Ca%ulet and +omeo Montague was real enoughP that is there was a real romance of the sort and there were real Ca%ulets and Montagues# :ust where the scene of this %articular romance was laid one is not so sure# The HHouse of :ulietH at Jerona one of the stock sights of the guide books is of more than doubtful authenticity# Certainly to begin with it does not com%ort in the least with the dignified marble %alace and its halls with which the stage&car%enter has built u% the settings of 8hakes%ereBs drama or GounodBs o%era# Perha%s they embroidered too much# 9f course they didT

In .I1E the H:uliet HouseH was in danger of colla%sing# *s it is nothing more than a %icturesFue old house such as northern Italy abounds in %erha%s it would not ha"e mattered much had it fallen# It is no more :ulietBs house than :ulietBs tomb is the tomb of :uliet# This indeed has latterly been adjudged a mere water&trough# -o house it is asserted in Jerona to&day can be declared with certainty as the house of a Montague or a Ca%ulet# Henry :ames %oints the moral of all this in HThe Custodians H and whether we can always make head and tail out of his dialogues or not his judgments are always sound# In Jerona the "ery gutters are of white marble# Balustrades window&sills and hitching %osts are all of white or coloured marbles# Jerona is lu@urious if not magnificent and its architecture is mar"ellously interesting and beautiful though freFuently rising to no great rank# The great +oman *rena so admirably %reser"ed is surrounded by the PiaAAa Jittorio Emanuele# The contrast between yesterday and to&day at Jerona is e"erywhere to be remarked# Its old *rena and the Jisconti gateway seen by moonlight look as ancient as anything on earth but the cafUs with their tables set out right across the PiaAAa with a band %laying on a tem%orary %latform set u% on trestles in the middle and electric trams swishing around the corner are as modern as EarlBs Court or Coney Island without howe"er many of their drawbacks# Jerona is a city of marble and coloured stone of terraces and cy%resses and all the Italian accessories which stagecraft has borrowed for its 8hakes%erean settings# The cy%resses %lanted around the outskirts of Jerona are said to be the oldest in Euro%e but that is doubtful# They are some of them %erha%s four hundred years old but on the shores of the Etang de Berre in old Pro"ence is a grou% of these same trees less lean greater of girth and denser of foliage# 8urely these must ha"e fi"e hundred years to their credit according to Jerona standards# Jerona is one of the cities of celebrated art where the authorities control oneBs desire to dig about with a "iew to disco"ering buried antiFuities e"en in oneBs own cellar or gardenP much less may one sell an old chimney %ot or urn# +ecently a 8ignor and 8ignora Castello who owned an ancient house in Jia del 8eminario sold the magnificent red marble %ortals and two balconies without %ermission from the Go"ernment# They were fined two thousand fi"e hundred lire each and ordered to re%lace the objects of art# *fter a long chase the Jerona %olice disco"ered the articles in a warehouse where they had been tem%orarily de%osited %re"ious to shi%%ing them abroad# The balconies are of the same e%och as the famous one said to ha"e been the scene of the meeting of +omeo and :uliet# H*merican collectors kee% offH is the sign the Jerona %olice would %robably %ut u% if they dared#

CH*PTE+ MJII TH+9;GH IT*'I*- '*<E'*-, The lake region of the north is %erha%s the most romantic in all ItalyP certainly its memories ha"e much a%%eal to the sentimentally inclined#

Indeed the tourists are so %assionately fond of the Italian lakeland that they lea"e it no HcloseH season but are e"erywhere to be remarked from Peschiera on the east to 9rta on the west# 8eemingly they are all honeymoon cou%les and seek seclusion and are therefore less offensi"e than the general run of conducted %arties which now HdoH the Italian round for a ten %ound note from 'ondon or the same thing from -ew $ork for a cou%le of hundred dollars# It is the fashion to re"ile the automobilist as a hurried tra"eller but he at least gets a sniff of the countryside en route which the others do not# Coming from the east through Jerona the tra"eller by road might do worse than make a detour of a hundred kilometres out and back to Mantua# Mantua on the banks of the Mincio sits like a water&surrounded town of the 'ow Countries# Mantua abo"e all is a %lace of war one of the strongest in -orth Italy forming with Jerona 'egnago and Peschiera the famous HQuadrilatera#H Mantua has at least a tenth %art of its %o%ulation made u% of :ews# It sits %artly surrounded by an artificial lake formed by the Mincio and the marsh land to the south can be flooded if it is deemed ad"isable in case of siege# * great walled enclosure a series of fortified dykes and a collection of detached forts roundabout %ut Mantua in a class Fuite by itself# It is a melancholy unlo"ely %lace from an Ysthetic stand%oint but %icturesFue in a certain crude way# The ancient PalaAAo GonAague of the ,ukes of Mantua now known as the Corte +eale is one of the most ambitious edifices of its class in Italy# The "iew of the PalaAAo ,ucale at Mantua with the rising background of roofs towers and domes as seen from the further end of the cobble&stone %a"ed bridge o"er the Mincio is delightful# *rtists do not like it as a general rule because of the ugly straight line of the bridge and the Hcamera fiendH makes a ho%eless mess of it unless he seeks an hour or more for a H%oint of "iewPH but for all that the scene is as Fuaint and beautiful a com%osition as one can get of uns%oiled mediY"alism in these %rogressi"e times when usually telegra%h %oles and tram cars %roject themsel"es into focus whether or no# There is nothing of the kind here# 3Illustration) P*'*OO9 ,;C*' M*-T;*6 The road from Mantua to Cremona following the banks of the Mincio still %reser"es its Jirgilian as%ect# CMantua "Y miserY nimium "icina CremonY#C !rom this one infers that it is a bad road and in truth it is "ery badP automobilists will not like it# CremonaBs tower is seen from afar like the sailorsB beacon from the sea# It is one of the most hardy and the most renowned Gothic towers of Italy and has a height a%%ro@imating a hundred and twenty odd metres say a little less than four hundred feet# -eighbouring u%on this great TorraAo is the PalaAAo Gonfaloneri dating from .0I0# These two monuments together with the magnificent +omanesFue 'ombard Cathedral of the twelfth century and the Casa 8tradi"ari&&where he who ga"e his name to a "iolin li"ed&&are MantuaBs chief Hthings to see#H If the tra"eller can include Mantua in his itinerary which truth to tell is not easy without doubling on oneBs tracks he should do so# Tra"ellers coming westward from Jenice and %assing Jerona hastening to the Italian and 8wiss lakes usually gi"e that region lying between Jerona and Como little heed# -a%les +ome !lorence Jenice and then 8witAerland and the +hine is still too often the itinerary of hurried %a%as and fond mamas# E"en if the automobilist does not dro% down on Mantua and Cremona he should take things leisurely through the lake region and sto% en route as often as fancy wills# The 'ago di Garda is

the most easterly of the Italian 'akes and the largest# It is of great de%th 2E1 metres or more is si@ty odd kilometres in length and in %laces a third as wide# It is a %roduct of the ri"ers and torrents flowing down from the mountains of the Italian Tyrol# The sudden storms which freFuently come u% to ruffle its bosom were celebrated by some lines of Jirgil and his e@am%le has been followed by e"ery other tra"eller e"er caught in one of these storms# HC!luctibus et fremitu assurgensCH sang the bard and the words still echo down through time# Peschiera and ,esenAano are the %rinci%al %orts at the southern end of the lake and each in its way is trying to be a Hresort#H The en"irons are charming and the towns themsel"es interesting enough though chiefly from the %oint of "iew of the artist# The seeker after the gaieties and %leasures of the great watering %laces will find nothing of the sort here# Between Peschiera and ,esenAano juts out the %romontory of 8ermione# * "illage is entered by a drawbridge and a mediY"al gate on the south# 9n the o%%osite side is a fortified wall that se%arates it from the northerly %ortion of the island and through which o%ens the only gate in that direction# The old castle in the form of a Fuadrangle with a high sFuare tower was entered on the north by a drawbridge# This entrance is still well %reser"ed as well as its small %ort or CdarsenaC surrounded by crenelated battlementsP but the %rinci%al entrance is now on the side of the "illage by a gate o"er which are shields bearing the arms of the 8caligers# It is one of the most im%osingly militant of all the castles of north Italy# 9nly that of !Unis in the Jal dB*oste is more so# +i"a at the *ustrian end of the lake of Garda occu%ies a wonderful site ne"ertheless# has its drawbacks but it

=hile -orthern Tyrol is still wra%%ed in the white mantle of winterBs snow and winter s%orts of e"ery descri%tion furnish great amusement for old and young the lo"ely 'ake of Garda is already beginning to show signs of s%ring# *ll along the lake the great HCstanAoniC H or lemon&houses for sheltering the lemon trees in winter are e"en in :anuary often filled with blossoms# 3Illustration) C9n the 'ago di GardaC6 The best time to "isit +i"a is from !ebruary to :une and from the middle of *ugust to the end of 9ctober but +i"a at all times will be a sur%rise and a delight to those who do not mind a CrUgimeC table dBhZte as the doctors ha"e it and the fact that e"erybody round about a%%ears to be a semi&in"alid# To Brescia from the foot of the 'ake of Garda is a matter of twenty odd kilometres through a greatly "aried nearby landsca%e set off here and there by "istas of the aAure of the distant lake the *l%s of Tyrol and the nearer Bergamese mountains# HCBologna la GrassaCH and HCBrescia *rmataCH are two nick&names by which the res%ecti"e cities are known u% and down Italy# Brescia like most Italian towns is built on a hill to% and is castle&crowned as becomes a mediY"al burg# BresciaBs castle is an e@ce%tionally strongly fortified feudal monument# CBrescia *rmataC took its name from the fact that it was e"er armed against its enemies which in the good old days e"ery Italian city was or it was of no account whate"er# BresciaBs enemies could ne"er ha"e made much headway when attacking this hill&to% fortress and must ha"e contented themsel"es with sacking the cities of the surrounding %lain# To&day firearms in great Fuantities are made

here and thus the city is still entitled to be called CBrescia *rmataC# BresciaBs market %lace is more thickly co"ered with great sFuat mushroom umbrellas than that of any other city of its siAe in Italy# Brescia is dear to the !rench because of its wraith of a mediY"al castle once so "igorously defended by the Che"alier Bayard that famous knight Csans %eur et sans re%rocheC# * bastioned wall surrounds the gay little 'ombard city in the genuine romance fashion albeit there is to&day "ery little romance in Brescia which li"es mostly by the e@%loitation of its te@tile and metal industries# Brescia housefronts are as gaily decorated as those of -uremberg many of them at least# It is a remarkable feature of BresciaBs domestic architecture# The castle or citadel itself was built by the Jiscontis in the fourteenth century on the summit of a hill o"erlooking the town# The Jenetians strengthened it and again the *ustrians# General Haynau bombarded the low&lying city round about in barbarous fashion so much so that the memory of it caused him to be chased from 'ondon some years later when he was sent there as *mbassador# 3Illustration) CCastle of BresciaC6 The men of Brescia seem to ha"e a %assion for wearing a great Ca%ucin shoulder cloak which looks "ery 8%anish# It is most %icturesFue and is one of the characteristic things seen in all BresciaBs %ublic %laces CcaffUsC and restaurants and is worn by all those classes whom a discerning tra"eller once described as men who work hard at doing nothing for BresciaBs street corners are ne"er "acant and her CcaffUsC ne"er em%ty# Between Brescia and Bergamo is the 'ake of IseoP the fourth in siAe of the north Italian lakes# The "egetation of its shores is %urely Italian and "ineyards and oli"e gro"es abound# * fringe of old castle towers of walls %alaces and "illas surround it all blended together with a historic web and woof of mediY"alism and romance# !rom Brescia to Bergamo runs one of the best national highroads in Italy# The automobilist will a%%reciate this and will want to %ush on to the end# He would do better to break it midway and dro% down on the road to Martinengo a detour of twenty kilometres only %assing the great Castle of Mal%aga built by the celebrated Bartolommeo Colleoni an edifice which gi"es a more com%lete idea of uns%oiled unrestored residence of a mediY"al Italian nobleman than any other e@tant# Bergamo is a strange combination of the new and the old# The u%%er and lower towns&&for it is built on a rise of the Bergamon *l%s&&ha"e nothing in common with each other# In the lower town there are great hotels sho%s and e"en a "ast factory which turns out a celebrated make of automobiles# In the u%%er town there are market&men and women with chickens "egetables and fruit to sell all s%read out under an im%osing array of great mushroom umbrellas only second to those of the market %lace at Brescia# BergamoBs chief architectural monuments are its churches but its ancient Broletto or castle of not "ery %ure Gothic but with a most original faWade is worth them all %ut together in its a%%eal to one with an eye for the %icturesFue# Its tower is a remarkably firm solid and yet withal graceful sentinel of dignity and %ower#

3Illustration) CBergamoC6 BergamoBs great fair of 8aint *le@ander held e"ery year in *ugust was once the ri"al of those great trading fairs of 'ei%Aig and Beaucaire# 9f late it is of less im%ortance but holds somewhat to its ancient traditions# Certainly it filled the *lbergo Ca%ello dB9ro to such an e@tent that it was doubtful for a time if we could find a %lace# * sight of our mud&co"ered automobile and of our generally bedraggled a%%earance&&for it had rained again though that of itself is nothing remarkable in Italy and we had Hmud&larked itH for the last fifty kilometres &&caused somebodyBs conscience to smite him and find us shelter# 3Illustration) Ma% The Italian 'akes6 Beyond Bergamo one enters the classic Italian 'ake region that which has usually been seen through a honeymoon %ers%ecti"e a honeymoon that is long&lasting as it in"ariably is in Italy as some of us know# *ll through this lakeland of north Italy is an unbroken succession of charms which certainly from the sentimental and romantic %oint has no eFual in Italy or out of it in the same area# The whole battery of little cities towns and townlets which surround 'akes Como Jarese 'ugano and Maggiore are delightful from all %oints# Theirs is a uniFue "ariety of charm which com%orts with the tranFuil mood not at all the same as that %ossessed by the a"erage scorching automobilist who reads as he runs and wishes to eat and drink and absorb his romantic and historic lore in the same u%&to&date fashion# -ot that the region is unsuited to automobile tra"el# -ot at all the roads thereabouts are Fuite the best in Italy and the towns themsel"es %icturesFuely charming if often lacking in ruined monuments of mediY"alism of the first rank# *ll of it is historic ground and filled with echoes of fact and fancy which still re"erberate from its hills and through its "ales# -ot all of these lake&side towns can be catalogued here no more than are all included in the a"erage itinerary but from 'ecco at the southern end of the 'ecco arm of the 'ago di Como to 9rta on the 'ago dB9rta will be found myriads of scenic sur%rises dotted here and there with Fuaint waterside towns the lakes themsel"es being %unctuated with great white winged barFues with here and there the not un%icturesFue coil of smoke belching into the clear sky from a cranky fussy little steamboat# 9ne most often a%%roaches the lake district from the east "ia 'ecco on the eastern arm of 'ake Como or as it is locally called the 'ago di 'ecco# 'ecco itself is of no im%ortance# Its site is its all&in&all but that is delightful# Between 'ecco and Milan the highway crosses the *dda by a magnificent bridge of ten arches built by *AAo Jisconti in .22E# Jery few of the works of the old bridge&builders bear so ancient a date as this# !rom 'ecco to MonAa the highroad skirts the BrianAa as the last *l%ine foot&hills are called before the mountains flatten out into the 'ombard Plain# *t *rcore is the "illa of the *dda family with a modern cha%el# 9ne can go north from 'ecco to Bellaggio by steamer when he will arri"e in the "ery heart of lakeland or he may go directly west by the highroad to Como and take his %oint of de%arture from there# The 'ake of Como was the 'acus 'arius of the +omans and the 'ari Ma@ime of Jirgil# It is a hundred and ninety metres abo"e sea le"el and among all other of the 8wiss and Italian lakes holds the %alm for the beauty of its surroundings#

*t -esso is the Jilla Pliniana built in .E/1# It is not named for Pliny but because of a nearby s%ring mentioned in his writings# PlinyBs "illa was actually at 'enno in a dull gloomy site and he %ro%erly enough called the "illa Tragedia# Como the city is ancient for the younger Pliny who was born in the ancient Cmunici%iumC of Comum asserts that it was then a Hflourishing state#H It does not enter acti"ely into history howe"er after the fall of the +oman Em%ire until ..1/ when it became an inde%endent city# It remained a re%ublic for two centuries and then it fell under the dominion of the Jisconti since which time its fate has e"er been bound u% with that of Milan# The Broletto or munici%al %alace is curiously built of black and white marble courses %atched here and there with red# It is interesting but biAarre and of no recogniAed architectural style sa"e that it is a reminder of the taste of the %eo%le of the 'ombard +e%ublics with res%ect to their ci"ic architecture in the thirteenth century# ComoBs ,uomo is on the contrary a celebrated and remarkably beautiful structure# The distinction made between the taste in ecclesiastical and ci"ic architecture of the time can but be remarked# 3Illustration) C9n the 'ago di ComoC6 The military architecture of Como as indicated by the gates in its old city wall was of a high order# The Porta della Torre the chief of the gates remaining and leading out to the Milan road rises fi"e stories in air# The PalaAAo Gio"io is now the local museum# Paolo Gio"io built the crudely ornate edifice and began the collection of antiFuities and relics which it now contains# *bo"e Como but outside the city rises a curious lofty tower called the Bardello# It may ha"e been built as one of the defences of the 'ombard <ings or it may not but at any rate there is no doubt that it witnessed the rise and fall of the Milanese dynasties from the first# Como one of the first cities to assert its inde%endence was the first to lose it# Prisoners of state were %ut into iron cages and stowed away in the Bardello&&like animals or birds in a li"e stock show# They were all tagged and numbered and were fed at infreFuent uncertain hours# -ot many li"ed out their termsP mostly they died some of hunger some eaten u% by "ermin and more than one by ha"ing dashed their brains out on the iron bars of their cages# *ll about Como are little lake settlements %eo%led with "illas and hotels where many a mediY"al and modern romance has been li"ed in the real# It is all "ery delightful but in truth all is stagey# 3Illustration) Cadenabbia6 *t Cadenabbia is the Jilla Carlotta named for Charlotte the ,uchess of 8a@e&Meiningen# Its structural elements build u% into something im%osing if not in the best of taste and its gardens are of the con"entionally artificial kind which look as though they might be %art of a stage setting# Bellaggio on the eastern shore of the lake is a %lace of large hotels no history of remark and the site of the "illa 8erbelloni with which the %ro%rietor of one of the hotels seems to ha"e some s%ecial arrangement in that he %asses "isitors to and fro from his establishment to the "illa in genuine showman fashion# Beyond its site which is entrancingly lo"ely it has no a%%eal whate"er from either the architectural or the landsca%e gardening %oint of "iew# Mennagio Belluno and Jarenna are in the same category and are tourist

show %laces only# Gra"adona is different in that it has two remarkably beautiful churches which can be omitted from no consideration of Italian church architecture and the PalaAAo de Pero built in .ELK for Cardinal Gallio which with its four angle&towers is more like a fortress than a %relateBs residence# -ear Gra"adona is the outline of an ancient highway known as the 8trada +egina# 8u%%osedly it was made centuries and centuries ago by Theodolinda Queen of the 'ombards and must be one of the oldest roads in e@istence# The 'ago di 'ugano is the most irregular of all the Italian 'akes# In %art it lies in 'ombardy and in %art within the 8wiss canton of Ticino# Its scenery is Fuite distinct from that of the other Italian lakes not more beautiful %erha%s but less %rolifically surrounded by that sub&tro%ical "erdure which is characteristic of Garda and Como# In the northeasterly %ortion around PorleAAa the %reci%itous outlines of the mountains round about lend an almost sa"age as%ect# 'ugano itself is "ery near the 8wiss border but is thoroughly Italian with dee% arcaded streets and here and there a +enaissance faWade such as can be found nowhere out of Italy# The 'ago di Jarese is the smallest of all the lakes# In the neighbourhood is %roduced a great deal of silk and a s%ecies of easily worked marble or alabaster called Marmo Majolica# Jarese itself while not destitute of monuments of architectural worth is more noticeably a %lace of modern "illas most of which are occu%ied by wealthy Milanese# 3Illustration) C9n the 'ago di MaggioreC6 !rom Jarese to 'a"eno on the 'ago di Maggiore is a matter of fifty kilometres and here one comes to the most famous if not the most beautiful of all the lakes# The whole range of towns circling this daintily en"ironed lake ha"e an almost ine@%ressible charm and its islands&&the Borromean Islands&&are su%erlati"ely beautiful# Ba"eno on the mainland and its "illas modern though they are is a charming %lace and 8tresa a little further to the south is e"en more delightfully dis%osed# *ll about the Italian lakeland are the modern "illa residences of distinguished Milanese Turinese and Genoese families# *rona is at the southern end of the lake# *bo"e this town is a colossal statue of 8an Carlo Borromeo the head hands and feet being cast in bronAe the remainder being fabricated of beaten co%%er# The famous Borromean Islands in the 'ago di Maggiore number four) Isola Bella Isola Madre Isola 8an Gio"anni and Isola dei Piscatori of which the three former belong to the Borromean family whilst the latter is di"ided among small %ro%rietors# The "ast PalaAAo of Isola Bella was a conce%tion of an ancestor of the %resent family in .K/.# The great fabric with its terraces gardens and grottoes is an e@otic thing of the first im%ortance# It is idyllically %icturesFue but withal inartistic from many %oints of "iew# The contrast of all this semi&tro%ical lu@uriousness with its snow&ca%%ed *l%ine background is not its least remarkable feature# It has been called Hfairylike H Ha ca%rice of grandiose ideas H and Henchanted H and these words describe it well enough# It looks unreal as if one saw it in a dream# Certainly its wonderful %anoramic background and foreground are not eFualled elsewhere and no garden car%et of formal flowerbeds

e"er made so beautifully dis%osed a %latform on which to stand and mar"el# The architect of it all made no allowance a%%arently for the natural setting but o"erloaded his immediate foreground with all things that suggested themsel"es to his imaginati"e mind# 8omehow or other he didnBt s%oil things as much as he might ha"e done# The setting is theatrical and so are the accessoriesP all is s%lendidly s%ectacular and since this is its classification no one can ca"il# =hat other effect could be %roduced where ten staired terraces tumble down one on another in a "eritable cascade sim%ly as a decorati"e accessory to a monumental edifice and not as a thing of utilityV 9n Isola Madre is another "ast structure surrounded by tro%ical and semi&tro%ical trees flowers and shrubs# * cha%el contains many of the tombs of the Borromeo family# The Isola dei Piscatori is the artistsB %aradise of these %arts# It lacks the H%rettinessH of the other islands but gains in HcharacterH as artists call that %icturesFueness which often is unsus%ected and unseen by the masses# Going back to history here is what ha%%ened once on the Isola Bella) It is a warm :une night# The mau"e summits of the 8im%lon and the CrefletsC of the mirrored lake throw back a %enetrating shimmer to the "iew# Coming from Ba"eno and holding straight its course for Isola Bella is a gently mo"ing bark# It is the year .L11 and on the stern seat of the boat sits the !irst Consul who was once the 'ittle Cor%oral and afterwards became -a%oleon I# The !rench army had freed the *l%s some days before# 9"er the %asses of Mont Cenis of the 8im%lon of 8aint Bernard and 8aint Gothard they had come soon to form in battle line on the %lains of Piedmont# Moncey was at the gates of Milan 'annes held the %assage of the Po# The !irst Consul arri"ing on the shores of the 'ago di Maggiore decided to %ass the night in the Castle of Isola Bella alone on this enchanting isle with his thoughts and his %lans# Bona%arte jum%ed first from the boat as it grated on the sands and was recei"ed by a grotesFuely attired major&domo in the name of the Counts of Borromeo the so"ereign %rinces of this tiny archi%elago# In the seigneurial chamber of which the furniture com%rised a great four %oster dating from the time of the Medicis a massi"e round table its to% laid in mosaic some chairs and a terrestrial globe -a%oleon shook off the dust of tra"el forthwith) but he did not seek re%ose# 9n the mosaic table&to% -a%oleon unfolded a great ma% of Italy and with forehead in his hands gaAed attenti"ely at its tracings soliloFuiAing thus) H$es Italy is reconFuered alreadyP the *ustrian army cannot esca%e me# !ifteen days will suffice to efface the disasters of two years# The *ustrian army is already in retreatP its rear guard has become its ad"ance guard# The tricolour of !rance will yet float on the shores of the *driatic# I shall march on +ome# I will chase the hateful Bourbons from the <ingdom of -a%les for e"er# Euro%e will tremble at the echo of my footste%s#H 3Illustration) C9rtaC6 !inally the twilight fadedP back of the mountains of 'ugano shone a brilliant star# -a%oleon thought it his star of destiny# To the wide o%en window came the !irst Consul for a breath of the sweet night air# It acted like cham%agne# He turned back into the roomP he kicked o"er the terrestrial globe of the BorromeoP he threw the ma% of Italy to the floor# H=hat is ItalyTH he cried Ha mere nothingT BahT itBs hardly worth the conFuering# Certainly not worth more than a few weeks# But I will lea"e the memory of my name behind# *nd then&&and then 8aint :ean dB*cre the 9rient the Indies# C*llonsC we will follow the route of

TamerlaneT Poland will come to life again and then he dreamed#

Moscow

8t# Petersburg ###H

*nd that is what %assed one night in the PalaAAo Borromeo a little more than a hundred years ago# !rom the shores of the 'ago di Maggiore to 9rta on the lake of that name is a short doAen kilometres from either *rona or Ba"eno# *t 9rta the tra"eller may take his ease at an humble inn and from its broad balcony o"erhanging the lake enjoy emotions which he will not e@%erience at e"ery halting %lace# 9rtaBs Munici%io or Town hall dominating its tiny PiaAAa is uns%eakably lo"ely though indeed it is a hybrid blend of the architecture of Germany and Italy# It might as well be in -uremberg in Ba"aria or Barberino in Tuscany for all it looks like anything else in Piedmont# 9ut in the lake glitters&&glitters is the word&&Isola 8an Giulio its graceful cam%anile and ancient stone buildings hung with crimson cree%ers and mirrored in the clear blue de%ths# *bout this island there hangs a legend# The story goes that no one could be found ready to ferry the a%ostle :ulius across to the chosen site of his mission in the year .E11# *ccording to %o%ular rumour the isle was haunted by dragons and "enomous re%tiles that none dared face# -ot to be deterred from his %ur%ose the holy man s%read his cloak u%on the water and floated Fuickly and Fuietly across# -or did the miracle end here for as with 8t# Patrick of Ireland the unclean monsters acknowledging his %ower retired to a far&away mountain lea"ing the saint unmolested to carry on his labours which were continued after his death by faithful friends# This is the story as it is told on the s%ot# The island was held as an out%ost against in"asions for many years and for long witnessed the ho%eless struggles of a bra"e woman Jilla wife of <ing Berenger of 'ombardy who was besieged there by the Em%eror 9tho the Great#

CH*PTE+ MJIII MI'*- *-, THE P'*I-8 9! '9MB*+,$ The great artichoke of 'ombardy whose %etals ha"e fallen one by one before its enemies of Piedmont is now much circumscribed in area com%ared with its former estate# !rom Como to Mantua and from Brescia to Pa"ia in short the district of Milan as it is locally known to&day is the only %olitical entity which has been %reser"ed intact# Tortona -o"ara *lessandria and *sti ha"e become alienated entirely and for most tra"ellers Milan is 'ombardy and 'ombardy is Milan# To&day the di"iding line in the minds of most is decidedly "ague# 'ombardy is the region of all Italy most %rolific in signs of modernity and %ros%erity and with Torino Milan shares the honour of being the centre of automobilism in Italy# The roads here take them all in all are of the best though not always well conditioned# That from Milan to Como can be "ery "ery good and si@ months later degenerate into something eFually as bad# The roads of these %arts ha"e an enormous traffic o"er them and it is for this reason as much as anything that their maintenance is difficult and "ariable# !or the greater %art they

are all at a general le"el e@ce%t of course in entering or lea"ing certain cities and towns of the hills and on the direct roads leading to the mountain %asses back of Torino or the roads crossing the lake region and entering 8witAerland or the 9berland# 'ombardy in times %ast and to&day to some e@tent %ossessed a dialect or %atois Fuite distinct from the !ranco&Italian mUlange of Piedmont or the %ure Italian of Tuscany# The 'ombard more than all other dialects of Italy has a decided German fla"our which considering that the 'ombard crown was worn by a German head is not remarkable# In time&&after the Guel%h&Ghibelline feud&&'ombardy was di"ided into many distinct cam%s which in turn became recogniAed %rinci%alities# The Jiscontis ruled the territory for the most %art u% to .55/ when the condottiXre !rancesco 8forAa de"elo%ed that des%otism which brought infamy on his head and 8tate a condition of affairs which the Po%e described as conduci"e to the greatest %ossible horrors# 3Illustration) * 'ombard !\te6 'ombardy has e"er been considered the real %aradise and land of riches of all Italy and e"en now in a certain lu@uriousness of attitude towards life it li"es u% to its re%udiation of the days of the dominating Jisconti and 8forAa# Milan is to&day the lu@urious ca%ital of 'ombardy as was Pa"ia in the %ast# *t one time be it recalled Milan was a ,uchy in its own right# $ears of des%otism at the hands of a man of genius made Milan a great city and the intellectual ca%ital of Italy# Milanese art and architecture of the fifteenth century reached a great height# It was then too that the Milanese metal workers became celebrated and it was a real distinction for a knight to be clad in the armour of Milan# H=ell was he armed from head to heel In mail and %late of Milan steel#H Milan has a history of the %ast but %arado@ically Milan is entirely modern for it struggled to its death against Pa"ia the city of fi"e hundred and twenty&fi"e towers and was born again as it now is# 9ne should enter Milan in as ha%%y a mood as did E"elyn who H%assynge by 'odi came to a grete citty famous for a cheese little short of the best Parmesan#H It was a Fueer mood to ha"e as one was coming under MilanBs s%ell and the scul%tured and Gothic glories of the Cathedral as it stands in com%letion to&day are Fuite likely to add to rather than detract from any %reconcei"ed idea of the glories of the city and its treasures# Milan is one of the most %rincely cities of Euro%e and lies in the centre of a region flowing with milk and honey# In E"elynBs time it had a hundred churches se"enty monasteries and forty thousand inhabitants# To&day its churches and monasteries are not so many but it has a %o%ulation of half a million souls# The comment of the usual tourist is in"ariably) HThere is so little to see in Milan#H =ell %erha%s soT It de%ends u%on how hard you look for it# Milan is a "ery %rogressi"e u%&to&date sort of city but its storied %ast has been most momentous and historic monuments are by no means wanting# Milan is modern in its general as%ect it is true and has little for the une@%ert in antiFuarian lore but all the same it has three magic lode stonesP its lu@uriously flamboyant Gothic ,uomoP its *mbrosian 'ibrary and its Palace of arts and sciences 'a Brera# Tourists may forget the two latter and what they contain but they will not forget the former nor the *rch of Trium%h built as a guide %ost by

-a%oleon on his march across Euro%e or the Galleria Jictor&Emmanuel Has wide as a street and as tall as a Cathedral H a great arcade with sho%s cafUs restaurants and the like# There is the 8cala o%era house too which ranks high among its kind#

MilanBs Heighth wonder of the world H its great Cathedral is the chef dBoeu"re of the guide books# ,etails of its magnitude and s%lendours are there duly set forth# MilanBs Cathedral has long sheltered a dubious statue of 8t# Bartholomew and tourists ha"e so long ra"ed o"er it that the authorities ha"e caused to be gra"en on its base) HI am not the work of Pra@iteles but of Marcus *grates#H -ow the throngs cease to admire and late e@%erts condemn the work utterly# 8uch is the follow&my&leader idea in art likes and dislikesT *nd such is the e%hemeral nature of an artistBs re%utationT The PalaAAo +eale occu%ies the site of the PalaAAo di Corte of the Jisconti and the 8forAa of the fourteenth century Hone of the finest %alaces of its time H it is recorded# The PalaAAo of to&day is a %oor mean thing architecturally although the residence of the <ing to&day when he "isits Milan# The *rchie%isco%al Palace of the si@teenth century is %erha%s the finest domestic establishment of its class and e%och in Milan# MilanBs Castello the ancient castle of Milan was the ancient ducal castle built by GaleaAAo Jisconti II in .2EL to kee% the Milanese in subjection# It was demolished after his death but rebuilt with increased strength by Gian GaleaAAo# 9n the death of the ,uke !ili%%o Maria the Milanese rose >.55/? and ha"ing %roclaimed the H*urea res%ublica *mbrosiana H destroyed the castle# It was rebuilt >.5E0? by !rancesco 8forAa Hfor the ornament >he said? of the city and its safety against enemies#H This building com%leted in .5/K is the one now standing# In the interior is a kee% where the dukes often resided# Phili% II added e@tensi"e modern fortifications and caused to be %ulled down all the neighbouring towers which o"erlooked them# The castle was taken by the !rench in ./IK and again in .L11 when -a%oleon ordered the fortifications to be raAed# It has since been con"erted into a barrack# 9f the round towers at the angles those towards the north ha"e been re%laced by modern brick ones while the two towards the city formed of massi"e granite blocks remain# ,uring the "ice&royalty of Eugene Beauharnais a ,oric gateway of granite with a %ortico or line of arches now filled u% on each side and in the same style was erected on the northwest sideP between each arch is a medallion containing the bas&relief %ortrait of some illustrious Italian military commander# 3Illustration) CThe *ncient Castle of MilanC6 The -a%oleonic arch the *rco della Pace is a remarkably interesting ci"ic monument a re%roduction of a tem%orary affair first built of wood and can"as in .L1K# -ow it stands a com%arati"ely modern work to be sure but of s%lendid design and %ro%ortions built of white marble and elaborately decorated with scul%tures all at the e@%ense of -a%oleon who on his march of migratory conFuest deigned to de"ote 011 111 francs to the %ur%ose# MilanBs hotels are of all sorts and conditions but with a decided tendency towards the good as is fitting in so o%ulent a country# BertoliniBs Hotel Euro%e takes a high rank at corres%onding charges as for instance four francs for a Hbo@H for your automobile# The Touring Club Italiano endorses the *lbergo del Cer"o where you %ay nothing for garage and may eat as bountifully as you will of things Italian real Italian at from two to three francs a meal# 9ne of the most amusing things to do in Milan is to lunch or dine in one of the great glass

co"ered galleries near the cathedral and one feasts well indeed for the matter of four francs with another cou%le of francs for a bottle of *sti# These great restaurants of the galleries may lack a certain as%ect of the ne@t&to&the&soil Italian restaurants but they do show a %hase of another class of Italian life and here H$oung ItalyH may be seen taking his midday meal and ordering English or German beer or 8cotch or *merican whiskey# He shuns the Italian items on the bill of fare and orders only e@otics# $ou on the contrary will do the re"erse# Pa"ia thirty odd kilometres south of Milan was e"er a ri"al of the greater city of to&day# Pa"ia is a tourist %oint but only because it is on the direct road from Milan# Pa"ia was the 'ombard ca%ital from E/0 to //5# Its old walls and ram%arts remain in %art to&day and the whole as%ect of the town is one of a certain mediY"alism which com%orts little with the modernity of its neighbour Milan which has so far outgrown its little brother# Pa"iaBs Certosa on the road from Milan to Pa"ia is its chief architectural s%lendour# 9f that there is no doubt# It is the most gorgeously endowed and most s%lendid monastery in all the world founded in .2IK by one of the Jisconti as an atonement to his conscience for ha"ing murdered his uncle and father&in&law# * Jenetian Bernardo da JeneAia was %robably the architect of the Certosa and brick work and su%erim%osed marble slabs and tablets all combine in an elegance which marks the Certosa of Pa"ia as characteristic of the most distincti"e 'ombard manner of building of its e%och# =ithin the city itself still stands the grim Castello built on the site of the %alace of the 'ombard kings# The %resent building howe"er was begun in .5K1 and com%leted in .5KI# It formed an am%le Fuadrangle flanked by four towers two of which alone remain# The inner court was surrounded by a double cloister or loggiaP in the u%%er one the arches were filled in by the most delicate tracery in brickwork# The whole was crowned by beautiful forked battlements# In the towers were de%osited the treasures of literature and art which Gian GaleaAAo had collected)&&ancient armourP u%wards of . 111 M88# which Petrarch had assisted in selectingP and many natural curiosities# *ll these Jisconti collections were carried to !rance in .5II by 'ouis MII and nothing was left but the bare walls# 9ne side of the %alace or castle was demolished during the siege by 'autrec in .E0/P but in other res%ects it continued %erfect though deserted till ./IK when it was again %ut into a state of defence by the !rench# They took off the roof and co"ered the "aultings with earthP and when the rains came on in autumn the weight broke down the "aultings and ruined a great %art of the edifice# It has since been fitted u% as a military barracks# The great ruined gateway once entered by a drawbridge crossing the fosse is still the most im%osing single detail and the great Fuadrangle with its fourteenth century arcades and windows Ha medley of Gothic and BramantesFue H is striking although the marble and terra&cotta ornaments are much dila%idated# !ranWois IBs famous mot) Hall is lost sa"e honour H uttered after the e"entful battle of Pa"ia will go down with that other remark of his) H9h God but thou hast made me %ay dear for my crown H as the two most a%ro%os sayings of +enaissance times# 9ne has to look carefully Hunder the walls of Pa"ia H to&day for any historical e"idence of the fatal day of !ranWois I when he lost his Hall sa"e honour#H ,u Bellay has %ainted the %icture so well that in s%ite of the fact that four hundred years ha"e rolled by it seems unlikely that e"en the most su%erficial tra"eller should not find some

historic stones u%on which to build his su%%ositions# Pa"iaBs great ;ni"ersity flowered in .2K0 and owes much to the generous im%ulses of Galeas II who founded its chairs of ci"ic and canonical law medicine %hysics and logic# Galeas II was a great educator but he was "ersatile for he in"ented a system of torture which would kee% a %olitical %risoner ali"e for forty days and yet kill him at the end of forty&one# If one returns to Milan "ia the Bridge of 'odi he will ha"e made a hundred kilometre round of classic 'ombard scenery# It %ossesses no elements of to%ogra%hic grandeur but is rich and %ros%erous looking re%lete with historic memory e"ery kilometre of it#

and

'odi has e"ol"ed its name from the ancient 'aus of the +omans another e"idence of the obliFue transformation of 'atin into the modern dialect# The men of 'odi were e"er ri"als of the Milanese but it is to -a%oleonBs celebrated engagement at the Bridge of 'odi that it owes its fame in the %o%ular mind# *bo"e 'odi the +i"er *dda circles and boils away in a sort of whirl%ool ra%id which 'eonardo da Jinci setting his %alette and brushes aside set about to control by a dam and a series of sluices# How well he succeeded may be imagined by recalling the fact that the Italian Edison Com%any in recent years a"ailed themsel"es of the foundation of his %lan in their successful attem%t to turn running water into electricity# The %anorama to the north of Milan is grandiose in e"ery %articular# 9n the horiAon the *l%ine chain lies clear&cut against the sky the Jiso Grand Paradise Mont Blanc 8%lugen and other %eaks descending in one slo%e after another one foothill after another until all o%ens out into the great %lain of 'ombardy# -orth of Milan towards Como and the *l%ine background is MonAa# 'ady Morgan called MonAa dreary and silent but her judgments were not always soundP she de%ended too much u%on moods and hers were many# MonAaBs Broletto was built by !rederick Barbarossa or it was a %art of a %alace built by that monarch# Italian Gothic of an unmistakable local cast is its style and the effect is heightened by the CringhieraC between the windows of the south side# In MonAaBs Cathedral&&an antiFue interior with a Gothic e@terior by the way&&is the celebrated Iron Crown of 'ombardy with which the German Em%erors of 'ombardy were crowned# Charles J -a%oleon and !erdinand I also made use of the same historic bauble which is not of much s%lendour# It costs a fi"e franc fee to see it and the sight is not worth the %rice of admission# 3Illustration) THE I+9- C+9=- 9! '9MB*+,$6 !rom Milan to ,omodossola lea"ing Italy "ia the 8im%lon Pass is .// kilometres or "ia BellinAona and the 8%lugen 01/ kilometres with mediocre roads until the lake region is reached when they im%ro"e decidedly being of the "ery best as they ascend the mountain "alleys#

CH*PTE+ MIM T;+I- *-, THE *'PI-E G*TE=*$8

The mountains of Piedmont are of the same "ariety as those of 8witAerland and 8a"oy# They form the highland background to Turin which gi"es it its magnificent and incom%arable framing# Turin or Torino was the old ca%ital of the ,uchy of 8a"oy then of the <ingdom of 8ardinia u% to .LK5 and to&day is the chief city of Piedmont# Turin is laid out in great rectangular blocks with long straight streets and it is brilliant and beautiful as modern cities go but there is not much that is romantic about it sa"e an occasional historical memory %er%etuated by some %ublic monument# 3Illustration) CPalaAAo Madonna TurinC6

Turin at the time of the founding of the kingdom of 8ardinia which included also the domain of the house of 8a"oy contained but /E 111 inhabitants# 8aid MontesFuieu who "isited it in ./0L) HIt is the most beautiful city in the world#H ,e Brosseo a few years later declared it to be Hthe finest city in Italy by the %ro%er alignment of its streets the regularity of its buildings and the beauty of its sFuares#H !rom this %oint of "iew the same holds true to&day but it is not sym%athetic and winsome in the least and it is not for the contem%lation of straight streets sFuare bo@&like buildings or formal %ublic garden %lots that one comes to Italy# TurinBs monumental memories are by no means non&e@istent or unclassed but they are almost o"er%owered by the modern note which rings so loudly in oneBs ears and flashes so "i"idly in oneBs eyes# 9f them all the PalaAAo Madonna has the greatest a%%eal# It was originally a thirteenth century construction of the Montferrats but was added to at "arious times until well along in the eighteenth century when it became the %alace of Madonna +eale the widow of Charles Emmanuel II# *ll its "alue from an architectural %oint of "iew is in its e@terior as%ect but its trim twel"e&sided towers ha"e a real distinction that a hea"ier more clumsy donjon often lacks# The PalaAAo Carignano is a fanciful in"ention of an architect Guarni by name who in .KL1 had no "ery clear idea as to what a consistent and %leasing architectural conce%tion should be# This %alaceBs sole reason to be remembered is that it was the residence of <ing Carlo&*lberto# To&day GuarniBs original faWade has been co"ered by a non&contem%orary colonnade with columns and statues of a certain im%ressi"e %resence which would be considered handsome if it were some degrees finer in workmanshi% for the conce%tion was certainly on becoming general lines# The PalaAAo Jalentino built in .K22 by Christine of !rance the daughter of Henri IJ and Marie de Medici and wife of Jittorio *medeo II is now de"oted to the usages of an educational institution# It is on the classic !rench chateau order and is as out of %lace in Italy as the Italian +enaissance architecture is in England# 9n the PiaAAa Castello rises TurinBs old castle of the fourteenth century built of brick and though moss&grown it is hardly a ruin# The PalaAAo +eale built in .K/L on the north side of the PiaAAa is se"ere and sim%le as to e@terior but lu@urious enough within by reason of the collections which it houses# In the armory of TurinBs royal %alace is the full suit of armour worn by ,uke Emanuele&!iliberto on the occasion of the battle of 8t# Quentin and made by his own hand# He was an armourer a sil"ersmith and a worker in fine metals beyond com%are# In %eace he was a craftsman without an

eFualP in war he was the same kind of a fighter# *nother armour suit is of gigantic %ro%ortions# =ho its owner was history and the catalogue fail to state# The breast&%late bears a ducal coronet and the letter !# The suit contains enough metal to armour %late a small battle shi%# !or the more sentimentally inclined there is a cabinet of delicately fashioned stilettos which we ha"e always fondly belie"ed were the national arms of Italy# These %articular stilettos were taken from fair ladies after they had made away with their lo"ers when they came to be a nuisance# !ickle womenT Turin is one of the many %laces on the ma% of Euro%e famous for a s%ecialty in the eating line# This time it is chocolate# 'et not any one think that all chocolate comes from *iguebelle or +oyat# The bread of Turin HCgrissiniC H is also in a class by itself# It is made in long sticks about the diameter of a %i%e stem and you eat yards of it with your CminestraC and between courses# The %u%%et show or marionette theatres of Turin ha"e e"er been famous indeed the CfantocciniC theatre had its origin in Piedmont# The buffon Gianduja was of Piedmontese birth as was *rleFuino of Bergamo# *round Turin are "arious suburban neighbourhoods with historic memories and some %alace and "illa remains which might well be noted# The Jigna della +egina or the QueenBs Jineyard is the name gi"en to a once royal residence now a girlsB school# The house was built in .KE1 by Cardinal Maurice of 8a"oy# *nother one of the nearby sights not usually Htaken in H is the natural garden >an undefiled landsca%e garden? arranged in the si@teenth century by the ,uke of 8a"oy Emanuele !iliberto# <ing Carlo !elice had a country house called the Castello dB*glie to the north of the city# It is remarkable for nothing but the %ure air of the neighbourhood and that abounds e"erywhere in these %arts# 3Illustration) 9n the 8trada Moncenisio6

*t +i"oli a few kilometres out on the Mont Cenis road is a clumsily built half finished mass of buildings %lanned by Jittorio *medeo II# in the eighteenth century as a royal residence to which he some day might return if he e"er got tired of %laying abdicator# He occu%ied it surely enough in due course but as a %risoner not as a ruler# He was a well&meaning monarch and through him the house of 8a"oy obtained 8ardinia but he made awful blunders at times or at least one for ultimately he landed in %rison where he died in ./20# 8i@ leagues from Turin is of stones on the mountain im%risoned the man of the history and !ouFuet the the little garrison town of Pinerolo# * hea% marks the site of a chateau where were once Iron Mask 'auAun the %olitical %risoner of money&grabbing minister of 'ouis MIJ#

'auAun and his %ersonal history make interesting reading for one "ersed in things Italian and !rench# He made a famous CmotC when being trans%orted to his mountain %rison# He was reFuested from time to time to descend from his carriage whene"er by chance it had got stuck in the mud or wedged between offending rocks# =ith much a%ology he was begged to descend# H9hT this is nothingP these little misfortunes of tra"el are nothing of moment com%ared to the object of my journey#H 9ther %risoners may ha"e %ut things similarly but hardly with the same grace of diction# 'et no automobilist on lea"ing Turin come out by way of Pinerolo unless he is %re%ared for a detour of a hundred kilometres a rise of

0 111 metres and a dro% down again to . 211 metres at Cesana Tarinese where he strikes the main road o"er the Col de Mont Cenis to Modane in !rance or "ia the Col de Mont Gene"re to BrianWon# The direct road from Turin is "ia +i"oli and 8use# -ot e"ery tra"eller in Italy knows the half&hidden out&of&the&way Jal dB*oste the ob"ious gateway from Turin to the north "ia the Col du 8aint Bernard# Tra"ellers by rail rush through "ia the 8im%lon or Mont Cenis and know not the delights and joys which %ossess the tra"eller by road as he %lunges into the heart of the *l%s through the gateway of the Jal dB*oste# The Jal dB*oste less than a hundred kilometres all counted has more scenic and architectural sur%rises than any similar stri% in Euro%e but it is not a C%isteC to be raced o"er by the scorching automobilist at si@ty miles an hour# 9n the contrary it can not be done with satisfaction in less than a day e"en by the most blasU of tourists# The railway also ascends the "alley as far as *oste and one may cross o"er by coach into !rance or 8witAerland by either the Col du Petit 8aint Bernard or the Col du Grand 8aint Bernard# It is worth doingT The whole Jal dB*oste is one great reminder of feudal days and feudal ways# Curiously enough too in this %art of Piedmont the as%ect is as much !rench as Italian and so too is the s%eech of the %eo%le# *t Courmayer for instance the street and sho% signs are all in !rench and CBomC the diminuti"e of ChommeC re%laces the Italian CuomoCP CcheurC stands for CcoeurC and CsitaC for CcitUC and CcittaC# This %atois is uni"ersal through the u%%er "alleys and if one has any familiarity with the %atois of Pro"ence it will not be found so "ery strange# !rench howe"er is "ery commonly understood throughout Piedmont more so than elsewhere in north Italy where for a fact a German will find his way about much more readily than a !renchman# 9ne blemish lies all o"er the Jal dB*oste# It was greatly to be remarked by tra"ellers of two or three generations ago and is still in e"idence if one looks for it though actually it is decreasing# 'arge numbers of the %o%ulation are of the afflicted class known as CCretinsC and many more suffer from CgoitreC# It is claimed that these diseases come from a sFualid filthiness but the lie is gi"en to this theory by the fact that there is no a%%arent filthiness# The diseases are e"idently hereditary and at some time anterior to their a%%earance here they were already known elsewhere# They are then results of an e@traneous condition of affairs im%orted and de"elo%ed here in this smiling "alley through the heedlessness of some one# There are certain neighbourhoods as at Courmayer and I"rea where they do not e@ist at all but in other localities and for a radius of ten kilometres roundabout they are most %re"alent# The southern gateway to the Jal dB*oste is the snug little mountain of I"rea E1 kilometres from Turin# The cheese and butter of the Italian *l%s known throughout the Euro%ean market as Beurre de Milan is mostly %roduced in this neighbourhood and the ten thousand souls who li"e here draw almost their entire li"elihood from these %roducts# I"rea has an old Castle of im%osing though somewhat degenerate %resence# It has been badly disfigured in the restorations of later years but two of its numerous brick towers of old still retain their crenelated battlements# The %lace itself is of great antiFuity and 8trabon has %ut it on record that 2 K11 of the inhabitants of the Jal dB*oste were once sold en bloc in the streets of I"rea by Terentius Jarro their ca%tor# The Jal dB*oste from I"rea to Courmayer about one hundred kilometres will some day come to its own as a %o%ular touring ground but that time is not yet# =hen the time comes any who will may know all the delights of 8witAerlandBs high "alleys without suffering from the manifest

drawback of o"ere@%loitation# 9ne doesnBt necessarily want to drink beer before e"ery waterfall or listen to a yoedel in e"ery ca"ern# =hat is more to the %oint is that one may here find sim%le unobtrusi"e attention on the %art of hotel kee%ers and that at a %rice in kee%ing with the surroundings# This you get in the Jal dB*oste and throughout the *l%s of Piedmont ,au%hiny and 8a"oy# ;% high in the Jal dB*oste lies a battery of little *l%ine townlets scarce known e"en by name though %ossessed of a momentous history and often of architectural monuments mar"ellously im%osing in their grandeur and beauty# -ear Pont 8aint Martin high abo"e the torrent of the ,oire is the %icturesFue feudal castle of Montalto a name famous in Italian annals of the middle ages# 9"er the ri"er 'ys at Pont 8aint Martin there is a +oman bridgeP a modern iron one crosses it side by side but the ad"antages from an Ysthetic and utilitarian "iew&%oint as well are all in fa"our of the former# * ruined castle crowns the height abo"e Pont 8aint Martin and a few kilometres below at ,onnas is an ancient +oman mile stone still bearing the uneffaced inscri%tion MMMII M# P# This whole region abounds in -a%oleonic sou"enirs# !ort Bard the key to the "alley garrisoned by only eight hundred *ustrians ga"e Bona%arte a check which he almost des%aired of o"ercoming# The 'ittle Cor%oralBs ingenuity %ulled him through howe"er# He sent out a %atrol which laid the streets of the little "illage below the fort with straw and his army %assed unobser"ed in the night as if sli%%ered with felt# But for this the Battle of Marengo one of the most brilliant of !rench feats of arms might ne"er ha"e been fought# Bard the fort and the "illage is now ignored by the high road which by a cut&off a"oids the stee% climb in and out of the %lace# ;nheard of by most tra"ellers in Italy and entirely unknown to others Jerre@ in the Jal dB*oste %ossesses a ra"ishing architectural sur%rise in the sha%e of a feudal castle on a hillside o"erlooking the town# It is of the sFuare kee% or donjon "ariety and %layed an im%ortant %art in the warlike times of the %ast# The chateau of Issogne near by built by the Prior Geor# Challant less of a castle and more of a country house is an admirable fifteenth century domestic establishment still habitable and inhabited to&day# *ll u% and down the "alley are relics of the engineering skill of the great +oman road and bridge builders# The road o"er Mont :o"et a sheer cut down into the roof of a mountain was theirsP so were the bridges at Chatillon and Pont 8aint Martin and another at 8alassiens# *t the Pont dB*el is a +oman aFueduct# Chatillon like Jerre@ is not marked in big letters on many ma%s but it belongs in e"ery architect lo"erBs Italian itinerary# Its two bridges of olden time are "eritable wonder works# Its chateau ;ssel a ruin of the fourteenth century is still glorious under its coat of mail of moss and i"y while the Castle of Count Christian dBEntrU"es is of the kind seen by most %eo%le only in %icture books# *t !Unis is a magnificent feudal battlemented castle with donjon tower a Cchemin rondeC and a barbican so awe&ins%iring as to seem unreal# =ith Jerre@ and Issogne near by !Unis com%letes a trio of chateau@&forts built by the o"erlords of the name of Challant who %ossessed feudal rights throughout all the Jal dB*oste#

*imon de Challant built the castle of !Unis in .221# Jirtually it was and is a regular fortress with as com%lete a system of defence as e"er %rincely stronghold had# *t once a sum%tuous seigneurial residence and a seemingly im%regnable fortress it is one of the most remarkable works of its class abo"e ground# *oste is a little Italian mountain town far more !rench than Italian from many %oints of "iew# It is of great antiFuity and was the *ugusta PrYtoria of "arious +oman itineraries# 'ike most +oman cities *oste was laid out on the rectangular %arallelogram %lan an as%ect which it still retains# *osteBs trium%hal arch its city gate and walls and its ancient towers all lend a Fuaint as%ect of mediY"alism which the twentieth century&&so far as it has gone&&has entirely failed to contaminate# !or lo"ers of English church history it will be a %leasure to recall that *nselm *rchbisho% of Canterbury in the ele"enth century was born at *oste# *nother churchly memory at *oste is a tablet inscribed with the %articulars of the flight of Cal"in from his refuge here in .E5.# 3Illustration) CCastle of !UnisC6 8aint Bernard who has gi"en his name to two neighbouring mountain %asses and to a breed of dogs was *rchbisho% of *oste in his time# His %erilous journeys in crossing the *l%s going and coming to and from his missions of good led to his founding the celebrated hos%ice on the nearby mountain %ass which bears his name# The con"ent of the Great 8t# Bernard is the highest habited %oint in Euro%e# !rom *oste to the Hos%ice of the Grand 8aint Bernard is twenty&si@ kilometres with a rise of nearly 0 111 metres and a fall of a like amount to Martigny in 8witAerland# The %ercentage of rise is considerably greater than the route leading into !rance by the 'ittle 8aint Bernard which falls short of the former by three hundred metres but the road is rather better# By far the easiest route from Turin into !rance is "ia the Col de Mont Cenis to ModaneP but a modern automobile will not Fuarrel seriously with any of these sa"e one or two short ugly bits of from fifteen to se"enteen %er cent# They are %retty stiffP thereBs no doubt about that and with a motor whose horse %ower is enfeebled by the rarefied atmos%here at these ele"ations the dri"er is likely to meet with some sur%rises#

CH*PTE+ MM !+9M THE IT*'I*- '*<E8 T9 THE +IJIE+* There is one delightful crossing of Italy which is not often made either by the automobilist or the tra"eller by rail# =e found it a delightful itinerary though in no res%ect did it lea"e the beaten track of well worn roadsP sim%ly it was a hitherto unthought of combination of highroads and byroads which led from Como on the shores of its mountain lake to -ice the head centre of the +i"iera just across the Italian border in !rance entering that land of good cooks and good roads >better cooks and better roads than are found in Italy %lease remember? "ia the Col de Tende and the Custom House of 8an ,almaAAo# The itinerary co"ers a length of 2KE kilometres and all of it is o"er %assably good roads the crossing of the frontier and the 'ower *l%s at

the Col de Tende being at a lower le"el than any other of the !ranco&Italian mountain %asses although we encountered snow on the heights e"en in the month of May# This route is a %leasant "ariation from the usual entrance and e@it from Italy which the automobilist coming from the south generally makes "ia one of the high *l%ine "alleys# If one is bound Parisward the itinerary is lengthened by %erha%s fi"e hundred kilometres but if one has not entered Italy by the Cote dB*Aur and the +i"iera gateway the thing is decidedly worth the doing# Como itself is the head centre for this %art of the lake region but we used it only as a H%ointe de dU%art#H Cernobbio is far and away the best idling %lace on the 'ago di Como and is getting to be the ri"al of *i@&les&Bains in !rance already the most freFuently "isited automobile centre in Euro%e# !rom Cernobbio to Como swinging around the foot of the lake is but a short si@ kilometres and from the latter %lace the Milan road lea"es by the old barbican gate and winds u%wards steadily for a doAen kilometres crossing the railway line a half a doAen times before Milan is reached# The detour to MonAa was made between Como and Milan a lengthening of the direct route by %erha%s a doAen kilometres and the 8trada Militaire which joins with the Bergamo&Milan road was followed into the 'ombard ca%ital through the Porto 9rientale# The direct road the %ost road from Como enters the city by the Porta -uo"a# There seems to be nothing to choose between the two routes sa"e that to&day one may be good and the other bad as to surface and si@ months later the re"erse be the case# 9n entering Milan city by the Porta -o"ara forty&si@ the dead le"el of one circles Magenta for kilometresP from .01 to around the !oro Bona%arte and lea"es the Turin# Magenta twenty&fi"e kilometresP so runs the itinerary and all of it at .E1 metres abo"e the sea#

=e were stoned at -o"ara and %rom%tly made a com%laint to the authorities through the medium of the %ro%rietor of the Hotel de la Jille where we had a most gorgeous re%ast for the rather high %rice of fi"e francs a head# It was worth it though in s%ite of the fact that we garaged the automobile in the dining room where we ate# =e got satisfaction too for the stoning by the sight of half a doAen small boys being hauled u% to the justice accom%anied by their frightened %arents# The outcome we are not aware of but doubtless the hotel %ro%rietor insisted that his clients should not be dri"en out of town in this manner and though %robably no serious %unishment was inflicted somebody undoubtedly got a well&needed fright# The road still continues towards Turin %erfectly flat for a matter of a hundred kilometres beyond -o"ara the glistening mountain background drawing closer and closer until one realiAes to the full just why Turin and Milan are such s%lendid cities an effect %roduced as much by their incom%arable sites as by their fine modern buildings their great a"enues and boule"ards and their historic traditions# This borderland between 'ombardy and Piedmont forms the "ery flower of %resent day Italy# The diarist E"elyn remarked all this in a more a%%reciati"e manner than any writer before or since# He wrote) H=e dined at Marignano near Milan a Cgrette cittieC famous for a cheese a little short of the best Parmeggiano where we met half a doAen sus%icious ca"aliers who yet did us no harm# Then %assing through a continuous garden we went on with e@ceeding %leasure for this is the Paradise of 'ombardy the highways as e"en and straight as a cord the

fields to a "ast e@tent %lanted with fruit and "ines climbing e"ery tree %lanted at eFual distances one from the otherP likewise there is an abundance of mulberry trees and much corn#H To arri"e on the +i"iera from Turin one lea"es the roads leading to the high *l%ine "alleys behind# ,irectly north from Turin runs the highroad which ultimately debouches into the Jal dB*osta and the 8aint Bernard PassesP to the west those leading through Pinerolo and the Col de 8estriXres and 8usa and the Cols of Mont GenX"re and Mont Cenis# :ust out of Turin on the road to Cuneo >which is %erha%s more often called by its !rench name Coni for you are now heading straight for the frontier a matter of but a half a hundred kilometres beyond? is Moncalieri the %ossessor of a royal chateau where was born in .I15 Prince Humbert of Piedmont the %resent heir to the Italian throne# =hen ItalyBs %resent Queen Helena sojourned here after the birth of her son she took her %romenades abroad Cen automobileC and so came to be a %artisan of the new form of locomotion as already had the dowager Queen before her# The latter may %ro%erly enough be called the automobiling monarch of Euro%e for she is heard of to&day at *i@&les&Bains to&morrow at Paris or Trou"ille and the week after at PallanAa or Cadennabia and in turn in 8%ain at Marienbad 9stend BiarritA or -ice and she always tra"els by road and at a good %ace too# This u%&to&date FueenBs %redilection for the automobile in %reference to the state coach of other days or the %lebeian railway has doubtless had much to do with the de"elo%ment of the automobile industry in Italy# It has too made the gateway into Italy from the +i"iera o"er the Col de Tende the good mountain road that it is# Those who %ass this way&&and itBs the only way worth considering from the 8outh of !rance to the Italian 'akes&&will ha"e cause to bless ItalyBs automobiling Fueen# The chiefs of state of Italy !rance and Germany know how to encourage automobilism and all that %ertains thereto better than those of +e%ublican *merica or Monarchial Britain# Carignano twel"e kilometres beyond Moncalieri is famous for its silk industry and its beautiful women# =e saw nothing of the former but the latter certainly merit the encomium which has been bestowed u%on them e"er since the Che"alier Bayard remarked the CgentileAAaC and beauty of the widow Bianca Montferrat and fought for her in a tournament centuries ago# Carmagnola a half a doAen kilometres off the direct road just beyond Carignano takes much the same rank as the latter %lace# -either are tourist %oints to the slightest degree but each is delightfully unworldly and gi"e one glim%ses of nati"e life that one may find only in the untra"elled ChinterlandC of a well known country# The %easant folk of Carmagnola are as %icturesFue and gay in their costume and manner of life as one can %ossibly e@%ect to see in these days when manners and customs are changing before the new order of things# Here is the home of the celebrated ,ance of the Carmagnole a gyrating whirling der"ish&like fury of a dance which makes a %easant girl of the country look more charming than e"er as she swishes and swirls her yards of gold or sil"er neck beads in a most daAAling fashion# The !rench +e"olution borrowed the HCarmagnoleH for its own uns%eakable orgies by what right no one knows for there is nothing outrU about it when seen in its nati"e land# Possibly some alien 8a"oyards who may ha"e joined their forces with the Marseilles Batallion may ha"e brought it to !rance with their light luggage&&%ro"erbially light for the 8a"oyard has the re%utation of always tra"elling with a bundle on a stick# =ould that we touring automobilists could or would tra"el lighter than we doT +acconigi a half a doAen kilometres farther on has another royal

chateau and %assing 8aluAAa through the arch erected in memory of the marriage of Jictor *medeo and Christine of !rance one arri"es at Cuneo in thirty kilometres more# !rom Carmagnola to Cuneo direct by 8a"igliano is %ractically the same distance but the other route is %erha%s the more %icturesFue# *t Cuneo one has attained an ele"ation of some fi"e hundred and thirty&fi"e metres abo"e sea le"el the rise thence to the Col de Tende being eight hundred metres more that is to say the %ass is crossed at an ele"ation not e@ceeding . 211 metres# CuneoBs *lbergo Barra di !erro >a new name to us for a hotel? accommodates one for the %rice of fi"e francs a day and u%wards and gi"es a discount of ten %er cent# to members of the Touring Club Italiano# These %rices will certainly not disturb any one who can afford to su%%ly a %rodigal automobile with tires at the %resent high %rices# =e climbed u% from Cuneo to the Col a matter of thirty&three kilometres of a "ery easy rise in something less than a cou%le of hours the last si@ kilometres the stee%est %ortion a"eraging but a fi"e %er cent# grade# 9n lea"ing Cuneo the road ascends "ery gradually running along the "alley of the Jermagnana to the foot of the Col where it begins to mount in earnest# Below is the great %lain of Piedmont watered by the Po and its tributary ri"ers while abo"e rises the mass of the Maritime *l%s with Mount Jiso as its crowning %eak nearly four thousand metres high# It is a "eritable *l%ine road but not at all difficult of ascent# *bout midway on the height one remarks the attem%t to cut a tunnel and thereby shorten the route an attem%t which was abandoned long years ago# !rom the crest the Col itself one gets a "iew ranging from Mont Jiso to Mont +osa in the north and on the south e"en to the blue waters of the Mediterranean# !or fully a third of the year and often nearer half the Col de Tende is cursed with bad weather and is often im%assable for wheeled traffic in s%ite of the fact of its com%arati"ely low ele"ation# The wind storms here are "ery "iolent# !rom Tende the road winds down into the low !rench le"els %ortion takes rank as one of the earliest of *l%ine roads been built by Carlo Emanuele I in .EI.# and in this it ha"ing

,own through the "alley of the Torrent of the +oya glides the mountain road and %assing 8an ,almaAAo and numerous rock "illages a distinct feature of these %arts in si@teen kilometres reaches Breil the first %lace of note on !rench territory# =e had our Htri%tychH signed at the Italian dogana fifteen kilometres beyond the brow of the mountain at 8an ,almaAAo di Tenda crossing on to !rench soil three kilometres farther on# The !rench douane is at Breil at the si@ty&si@th kilometre stone beyond Cuneo and at an ele"ation of less than three hundred metres abo"e the sea# Here we delayed long enough to ha"e the douaniers check off the number of the motor the colour of the body work the colour of the cushions and numerous other incidentals in order that the !rench go"ernment might not be mulcted a sou# HE"erything in order# *llonsT %arteAPH said the gold braided official and again we were in !rance# *t Breil the road di"ides one %ortion following still the "alley of the +oya slo%es down to Jentimiglia in twenty kilometres the other in forty kilometres arri"ing at -ice "ia the "alley of the Paillon# It is not all down hill after Breil for before 8os%el is reached se"enteen kilometres away one crosses another mountain crest by a fairly stee% ascent and again after 8os%el it rises to the Col di

Braus&&this time o"er the best of !rench roads&&to an ele"ation of o"er one thousand metres# !rom 8os%el a s%ur road leads direct to Menton but the Grande +oute leads straight on to -ice shortly after to blend in with the old +oute dBItalie linking u% Paris with the Italian&Mediterranean frontier a straight away Hgood road H the dream of the automobilist for a matter of . 1LK kilometres# THE E-,#

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Ty%ogra%hical errors corrected by the ete@t transcriber) Britannycd Brittany e%g .Ef dignatariescd dignitaries e%g E0f

Jia Nmelia&8cauricd Jia Nmilia&8cauri e%g KKf It architecturecd Its architecture e%g ./Kf made way with their lo"erscd made away with their lo"ers e%g 25If Brianconcd BrianWon e%g 2E0f Chambery Kcd ChambUry K e%g inde@f 0. einde@f

Castle of !enis

0.cd Castle of !Unis

-icaecd -icY einde@f Paestum 005cd PYstum 005 einde@f

End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Italian Highways and Byways from a Motor Car by !rancis Miltoun 777 E-, 9! THI8 P+9:ECT G;TE-BE+G EB99< IT*'I*- HIGH=*$8 *-, B$=*$8 777 77777 This file should be named 550.0&L#t@t or 550.0&L#Ai% 77777 This and all associated files of "arious formats will be found in) htt%)((www#gutenberg#org(5(5(0(.(550.0( Produced by Chuck Greif and the 9nline ,istributed Proofreading Team at htt%)((www#%gd%#net >This file was %roduced from images a"ailable at The Internet *rchi"e? ;%dated editions will re%lace the %re"ious one&&the old editions will be renamed# Creating the works from %ublic domain %rint editions means that no one owns a ;nited 8tates co%yright in these works so the !oundation >and youT? can co%y and distribute it in the ;nited 8tates without %ermission and without %aying co%yright royalties# 8%ecial rules set forth in the General Terms of ;se %art of this license a%%ly to co%ying and distributing Project Gutenberg&tm electronic works to %rotect the P+9:ECT G;TE-BE+G&tm conce%t and trademark# Project Gutenberg is a registered trademark and may not be used if you charge for the eBooks unless you recei"e s%ecific %ermission# If you do not charge anything for co%ies of this eBook com%lying with the rules is "ery easy# $ou may use this eBook for nearly any %ur%ose such as creation of deri"ati"e works re%orts %erformances and research# They may be modified and %rinted and gi"en away&&you may do %ractically *-$THI-G with %ublic domain eBooks# +edistribution is subject to the trademark license es%ecially commercial redistribution#

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