VIENNA MINI GUIDE Vienna (Wien) is a unique blend of the historic and the modern, so full of tradition it can

be read on the face of the city, yet with a forward-looking approach that will surprise the visitor. Vienna's role as the seat of the Hapsburg Empire for centuries can be seen in the wealth of architecture and in the city's artistic and musical heritage. Many of the world's most important composers, including Beethoven and Mozart, have lived and performed behind Vienna's baroque facades. In addition to this baroque splendour, there are excellent examples of the art nouveau (Jugendstil) architecture that also flourished here. The fall of the Hapsburg Empire at the end of WWI allowed Vienna's socialist undercurrents to come to the fore during the Red Vienna' period, resulting in numerous social housing and other projects, which still play a role in the city. Vienna's occupation by the Nazis and subsequent partitioning by the four Allied powers tend to be forgotten, as the city instead focuses on its post-war neutrality and the glittering remnants of its Imperial glory. This seems to be reinforced by the image of older Viennese walking small dogs or eating cakes in cafes but it ignores the energy of Vienna's alternative and underground scenes, whose members react against the attachment to tradition in a way similar to their Secessionist counterparts a century before. Vienna is divided into 23 bezirke (districts). The original city that lay within the protective walls comprises the First District of modern Vienna. The demolition of the city walls led to the construction of the Ringstrasse and an impressive parade of buildings along its length. The majority of the tourist attractions lie on and within the Ringstrasse. Districts two to nine are arrayed between the Ringstrasse and the concentric Grtel (belt). The other districts lie beyond the Grtel and extend into the foothills of the Wienerwald (Vienna Woods), where heurigen (wine taverns) and pretty villages are dotted among the vineyards. Vienna's climate is generally moderate, although the city can experience heavy snowfalls and low temperatures from December to March, as well as occasionally very high temperatures in July and August. Summer, however, is usually comfortable with an average daily temperature of 20C (68F), although heavy thundershowers are likely. The city is not only the capital of Austria but also a federal province, surrounded by Niedersterreich (Lower Austria). Vienna's location on the east-west trade route along the River Danube played an important part in its history - an empire that once covered a large part of Europe was ruled from here. Even today, Vienna is the financial and administrative capital of Austria and home to a

number of international organisations, including the United Nations. And with the fall of Communism, Vienna is once again at the centre of Europe. City Statistics Location: Vienna (federal province), eastern Austria. Dialling code: 43. Population: 1,675,000 (city); 1,725,000 (metropolitan area). Time zone: GMT + 1 (GMT + 2 from last Sunday in March to last Sunday in October). Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50 Hz; round two-pin plugs are standard. Average January temperatures: 1C (34F). Average July temperatures: 25C (77F). Annual rainfall: 616mm (24.3 inches). Sightseeing The heart of Vienna is the Innerestadt - the area that lay within the city walls, until they were demolished in the mid 19th century. It is here that some of Vienna's most popular tourist attractions can be found, along with pedestrianised streets lined with countless shops, cafes, bars and restaurants. The centre point is Stephansdom, the city's celebrated gothic cathedral, which is surrounded by the wide Stephansplatz. Following the demolition of the city walls in 1857, the Ringstrasse was laid out and some of Vienna's most beautiful buildings were built along it, between 1858 and 1865. Among the most important are the Staatsoper (State Opera House), Kunsthistorisches Museum (Museum of Fine Arts), Naturhistorisches Museum (Natural History Museum), Parlament (Parliament), Rathaus (City Hall) and Burgtheater (Palace Theatre). Although most major attractions are in the First District, the other inner districts have much to offer. Leopoldstadt (Second District) lies on the eastern side of the Danube Canal, and it is here that the massive Prater can be found. Landstrasse (Third District) includes the Schwarzenberg Palace and the Konzerthaus, although the main attraction is the Belvedere Palace. Wieden (Fourth District) is a small neighbourhood that is almost as fashionable as the First District. Karlsplatz, with its domed namesake, Karlskirche, is the district's dominating feature. Margareten (Fifth District) is more residential and the historic homes of Schubert and Gluck still stand here. Mariahelf (Sixth District) includes Vienna's busiest shopping street, Mariahilferstrasse. The Naschmarkt (Produce Market) and the Flohmarkt (Flea Market), on Saturday morning, add to the excitement, while the surrounding streets are packed with beisls (small taverns), theatres, cafes and pubs. Neubau (Seventh District) includes the Spittelberg Quarter, where the old houses have been renovated into boutiques, restaurants, theatres and galleries, and the MuseumsQuartier, Vienna's prime art and cultural space. Josefstadt (Eighth District) was once the area favoured by civil servants - the Josefstadt Theatre, the city's oldest

(1788), is still in operation. Alsergrund (Ninth District) is often called the academic quarter - Freud's home, now a museum, is located here, as is the Lichtenstein Palace, which now houses the Museum of Modern Art. Further afield, in Hietzing (13th District), is Schnbrunn Palace, one of the finest baroque edifices on the planet and the former summer residence of Habsburg royalty. Tourist Information Wien Tourismus Albertinaplatz/Ecke Maysedergasse Tel: (01) 24555. Website: www.wien.info Opening hours: Daily 0900-1900. Other tourist information offices are located in the airport arrivals area. Passes The Vienna Card offers discounts at 200 attractions, theatres, shops, cafes, restaurants and heurigen (wine taverns), as well as on the CAT train from the airport. It also includes unlimited travel on the U-Bahn, bus and tram networks (including night buses) for 72 hours. Key Attractions Stephansdom (St Stephen's Cathedral) The imposing St Stephen's Cathedral marks Graben's eastern end and is easily spotted, due to its brightly coloured roof tiles, from more distant viewpoints. Construction began on the cathedral in the 12th century and was completed in 1433. Major restoration and rebuilding work was necessary after the cathedral caught fire at the end of WWII. 01, Stephansplatz 1 Tel: (01) 5155 23520. Website: www.stephanskirche.at Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0600-2200, Sun 0700-2200; English services Sat 1900, services with musical arrangement Sun 1015 (Sep-Jun), Sun 0930 (Jul-Aug); guided tours MonSat between 0900-1130 and 1300-1630, Sun 1300-1630. Admission charge. Hofburg The Imperial Palace until 1918, the Hofburg is almost a city in itself. Today, it houses the office of the Austrian president, an international conference centre, a number of museums, the chapel where the Vienna Boys' Choir sings and the hall in which the Lipizzan stallions perform. Visitors can tour the Kaiserappartements (Imperial Apartments), including Franz Joseph's and Sisi's (Empress Elisabeth's) private rooms, the great audience hall, dining rooms and staterooms. The Silberkammer (Imperial Silver Collection) is also on show. The Schatzkammer (Treasury), Schweizerhof 1, contains stunning exhibits that exemplify the power and wealth of one of Europe's most

important empires. The Imperial crown of the Holy Roman Empire rests here, as does the crown of the Austrian Empire, the 15th-century Burgundian treasure and the treasure of the Order of the Golden Fleece. The Sisi Museum, which opened in 2004 to commemorate the 150th wedding anniversary of Empress Elisabeth and Emperor Franz Joseph, showcases many personal objects and some of the most famous portraits of the beautiful empress. Last but not least, the Prunksaal (State Hall) of the Nationalbibliothek (Austrian National Library) is a jewel of profane baroque architecture and one of the most beautiful historical libraries in the world, and should not be missed. 01, Innerer Burghof 1, Kaisertor Tel: (01) 533 7570 (Imperial Apartments, Imperial Silver Collection and Sisi Museum) or 5252 44025 (Treasury). Website: www.hofburg.wien.info or www.hofburg-wien.at Opening hours: Daily 0900-1700 (Imperial Apartments, Imperial Silver Collection and Sisi Museum); Wed-Mon 1000-1800 (Treasury). Admission charge. State Hall of the Austrian National Library 01, Josefsplatz 1 Tel: (01) 534 100. Website: www.onb.ac.at Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1800, Thurs 1000-2100. Admission charge. Spanische Hofreitschule (Spanish Riding School) For over 400 years, the horses of the Spanish Riding School have performed their elegant manoeuvres at the Imperial Stables. The Lipizzaner Museum Wien (situated at the stables) traces the history of these renowned performing horses and offers the opportunity to see into the animals' quarters. The easiest way for visitors to see the horses in action is at their morning training sessions, 1000-1200 Tuesday to Saturday. Tickets to the training sessions, which involve classical dressage exercise to music, are only available at the door on the day. Tickets for the actual performances are in high demand and need to be booked well in advance. The season generally runs from March to June and from September to December. Gala performances vary from month to month, usually Saturday or Sunday mornings and occasionally Friday evenings. The expensive tickets are available on the Internet, by post or by fax (standing room is cheaper). Final dress rehearsals before the season starts are cheaper and tickets are available on a first-come-first-served basis. 01, Michaelerplatz 1 (Riding School ticket office), Reitschulgasse 2 (Lipizzaner Museum) Tel: (01) 533 9031 (Riding School) or 5252 43450 (Lipizzaner Museum). Website: www.spanische-reitschule.com or www.lipizzaner.at Opening hours: Daily 0900-1800 (museum); Tues-Sat 1000-1200 (morning training sessions). Guided tours Tues-Sat in the afternoon. Gala performances are usually held on Sunday morning at 1100, occasionally on Friday evenings. Admission charge.

Schlo Schnbrunn (Schnbrunn Palace) Schnbrunn Palace is Vienna's answer to Versailles and was used as the summer residence of the Habsburgs from the 18th century until 1918. Of the 1,441 rooms in the palace and its adjacent buildings, 40 state rooms are open to the public. The goldenyellow palace is set within equally magnificent gardens, landscaped in the baroque style, with some fabulous views. The palace and gardens are included in the UNESCO World Heritage List. The Gloriette is a triumphal arch that stands on the hilltop behind the palace and affords a stunning view over the grounds and the city beyond. The Palmenhaus (Palm House) is an excellent example of late 19th-century architecture, with cast iron columns delicately holding up the glass walls and roof. The world's oldest zoo can be found in the park. It was commissioned in 1752, to amuse and educate the court. 13, Schnbrunn Palace Tel: (01) 81113 ext. 239. Website: www.schoenbrunn.at Opening hours: Daily 0830-1700 (Apr-Oct, until 1800 Jul and Aug); daily 0830-1630 (Nov-Mar). Admission charge. Belvedere The Oberes Belvedere (Upper Belvedere Palace), which was built in 1721-23 for Prince Eugene of Savoy, offers terrific views across the gardens to the Unteres Belvedere (Lower Belvedere) and the city beyond. Artwork from the middle ages and the Baroque era is featured in the Unteres Belvedere. The Oberes Belvedere houses art from the 19th-century classical, Romantic and Biedermeier periods on the second floor and post1918 art on the ground floor. The first floor, however, is what draws visitors, with paintings by Gustav Klimt (including der Kss), Egon Schiele, Oskar Kokoschka and other fin-de-sicle artists. 03, sterreichische Galerie Belvedere, Prinz Eugenstrasse 27 Tel: (01) 79557. Website: www.belvedere.at Opening hours: Daily 1000-1800 (Oberes Belvedere); Thurs-Tues 1000-1800, Wed 1000-2100 (Unteres Belvedere). Admission charge. Kunsthistorisches Museum (Museum of Fine Arts) This museum was built to house the Imperial Hapsburg collections in one place, although these have now grown to such an extent that some are housed in the Hofburg and in Schnbrunn Palace (see above). The grand staircase here provides passage to the galleries, which include the Antiquities, Egyptian-Oriental and Coin collections. The Kunstkammer (art chamber) houses sculpture and decorative arts. The Gemldegalerie (picture gallery) has works by Old Masters, including Drer, Raphael, Rembrandt, Rubens and Titian, and the most comprehensive collection of Brueghels in the world. 01, Maria-Theresien-Platz 1

Tel: (01) 525 240. Website: www.khm.at Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1800 (until 2100 Thurs). Admission charge. MuseumsQuartier On the site of the former imperial stables, this large cultural complex, which opened in 2001, is one of the biggest of its kind in the world. Don't miss the excellent Leopold Museum, a must for anyone interested in Austrian art, and MUMOK, the Museum of Modern Art. The MuseumsQuartier (MQ) is a very pleasant place to hang out for a few hours, especially in summer, as the place is packed with students and young people relaxing outside or in one of the many cafes. 07, Museumplatz 1 Tel: (01) 523 5881 or 52570-0 (Leopold Museum) or 52500 (MUMOK). Website: www.mqw.at or www.leopoldmuseum.org or www.mumok.at Opening hours: Wed-Mon 1000-1900, Thurs 1000-2100 (Leopold Museum); Tues-Sun 1000-1800, Thurs 1000-2100 (MUMOK). Admission charge Leopold Museum and MUMOK. Shopping The most interesting shopping locale in Vienna is the inner city, with its narrow streets and elegant facades. The large pedestrian zones on Krntnerstrasse and Graben meet at the strikingly modern Haas Haus, 01, Graben, the mirrored facade of which seems to mock St Stephen's Cathedral, standing opposite. In addition to exclusive shops, the Haas Haus has a platform on the top floor, for sightseers who fancy a more face-to-face encounter with the cathedral. There are a number of architectural gems in this district small shops with facades designed by some of Austria's most famous architects, as well as smaller side streets, often hiding unique and interesting retail opportunities. The Ringstrassengalerien, 01, Krtner Ring, offers the convenience of a shopping centre, a short walk from the Staatsoper. The traditional shopping street of the Viennese is Mariahilferstrasse, which stretches from the Ringstrasse towards the Westbahnhof rail station (above the U3 U-Bahn line) between the Sixth and Seventh Districts. This street is home to major international stores selling clothing, music and other familiar commodities, as well as the department store Gerngross, 07, Mariahilfer Strasse 42-48. Among the many markets in the city, the most popular with locals and tourists alike is the Naschmarkt, a colourful array of fruit and vegetable stalls, shops and eateries, located between the Linke (left) and Rechte (right) Wienzeile streets, near Karlsplatz (beside Kettenbrkegasse U-Bahn station). The market is open within the normal shopping hours Monday to Saturday. Between 0800 and 1200 on Saturday, the Flohmarkt (Flea Market) comes alive at the far end of the Naschmarkt. Some incredible bargains in second-hand clothes and goods, as well as more than a few unusual items, are on sale here. There are a number of Christmas and Advent markets in the city during the festive season. The most popular is

the Christkindlmarkt, which is held in front of the Rathaus overlooking the Ringstrasse. Shoppers in search of souvenirs can choose from the many gifts that bear an image associated with Vienna - St Stephen's Cathedral, the Giant Ferris Wheel or the Lipizzaner horses. Something a bit more distinctive, such as the art deco works produced by the artisans of the Wiener Werksttten, is available from sterreichische Werksttten, 01, Krntnerstrasse 6. Wiener Porzellanmanufaktur Augarten, Europe's second oldest porcelain manufacturer, once supplied its hand-painted wares to the Imperial family. Nowadays, visitors can tour its factory at Augartenpalais, in the Second District (tel: (01) 2112 4200; website: www.augarten.at). Following strict criteria, the Vienna Chamber of Commerce only allows a limited number of companies to use the Wien Products' logo, a symbol of high quality craftsmanship (website: www.wienproducts.at). Shops are generally open Monday to Friday 0900-1800/1830 and Saturday 0900-1700 (many shops also stay open until 2130 on Thursday, and/or 1930 on Friday). The 20% VAT can be reclaimed by visitors from outside the EU, on goods with a value exceeding 75. Visitors can do this at the airport, if travelling to a non-EU country. Otherwise, the claim must be made in the final EU country visited. To make a claim, the tax-cheque must be filled in at the time of purchase. After check-in at the airport, the purchased items and tax-cheque must be taken to customs clearance. The customs official will provide a tax stamp, which may be redeemed at any of the airport banks for cash in a variety of currencies. The rebate can be up to 15% of the purchase price.