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Applied pattern designing, illustrated; based on the patternmaking methods
of Abram Mayer. Developed and written by Herbert Mayer; technical
assistance in compiling the text by Allyne Bane. Illustrated by Eleanor
Harrington and Eve Stockhold.
Mayer, Herbert, 1913-
[New York] Mayer Pub. Co., c1950.
http://hdl.handle.net/2027/coo.31924059249965
Public Domain, Google-digitized
http://w w w .hathi tr u s t.or g /acces s _ u s e# pd- g oog le
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The images are provided for educational, scholarly,
non-commercial purposes.
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A E T . MA
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3 1924 059 249 965
DATE DUE
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orne Unversty brary
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APP ED PATTE DES G G
UST ATED
ased on the patternma ng methods of
A AM MA E
Drector of hc Schoo of ashon Desgn,
Pattern Desgner to the neede ndustres n
ew or for over forty years.
Deveoped and wrtten by
E E T MA E
Technca assstance n
compng the te t by
A E A E, M.A.
nstructor of ome Economcs, ho Unversty
ustrated by
E EA A GT and E E ST D
P TED U.S.A. opyrght 1950 Mayer Pubshng o.
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TT
Essenta advce and crtcsm has been rendered by teachers on the staff of hc Schoo of ashon
Desgn. Speca ac nowedgment s made to Gertrude orshrm, Mare ndsey, y arteme, and
oan orro for ther hepfu suggestons and crtcsms.
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UT E U SE
SE T A
Ma ng the asc odce Patterns (Sopers)
ESS . PAGE
AT. The Prncpe of the Dart 2
A2. Drapng the ront odce 3
A3. Drapng the ac odce 5
A4. onvertng the odce Drape nto a Soper 7
A5. ocatng Seam/nes on the uman orm 9
A6. Ad ustng the odce to t the ndvdua 11
SE T
Shftng the Entre ust ontro Dart
. Shouder Dart 15
2. rench (Sde Seam Dart.... 17
SE T
Dvdng the ust ontro Dart
. ombnaton of ast and Shouder Darts 19
2. ombnaton of ast and Underarm Darts 21
3. ombnaton of Underarm and Shouder Darts 23
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UT E U SE-cont d
SE T D
onvertng the ast Dart nto Stye nes or Gathers
ESS . PAGE
07. Two ast Darts 25
02. Gathers at the Shouder 27
D3. Shouder Tuc s and ast Gathers 29
04. adatng Darts at the ec 31
SE T E
Ma ng Gathers wth E tra uness
E. Gathers at the enter ront 33
E2. Gathers Around the ec ne 3 5
SE T
Emnatng and onvertng the ac Darts
ft. Emnatng the ac Shouder Dart 37
2. Transferrng the ac Dart from Shouder to ec 39
3. Mutpe ast Tuc s 41
4. o ed ac wth Gathers 43
5. urved o e and nverted o Peat 45
6. our Pece ac 47
7. Three Pece rench ac 49
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UT E U SE -cont d
SE T G
The ec nes
ESS . PAGE
G . gh ound ec nes 51
G2. ow ec nes 53
G3. St ec ne 55
G4. ow ec ne 57
G5. ever 59
SE T
odce ront Patterns wth o es
. T-shaped o e wth Tuc s 61
2. Part/a/ o e wth Gathers 63
3. o e wth Sweetheart ec and Gathers 65
4. ound o e wth Shrrng n odce 67
5. Shaped yo e 69
6. Shaped o e wth Stye Darts 71
7. uttoned ront wth o e Effect 73
SE T
The asc S rt Patterns (Sopers)
1. Drapng the ront S rt 77
2. Drapng the ac S rt 79
3. onvertng the S rt Drape to a S rt S/oper 81
4. Ad ustng the S rt S/oper for Mass Producton 83
5. Ad ustng the S rt Drape to t the ndvdua 85

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UT E U SE-cont d
SE T
Gored S rt Patterns
ESS . PAGE
7. our Gore S crf 87
2. S Gore S rt 89
SE T
Gathered S rt Patterns
. ront Gathers and Shaped astband 91
12. Gathered enter Pane/ 93
SE T M
Peated S rt Patterns
M. Sde Peats 95
M2. nverted o Peats 97
M3. c Peat 101
SE T
Msceaneous S rt Patterns
. S rt wth ased astne and Unpressed Peats 103
2. Peg Top S rt 105
3. S rt wth artrdge Peat Effect 107
4. rap Around S rt 109
5. rcuar S rt 113
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UT E U SE-cont d
SE T
Pepum Patterns
ESS . PAGE
01. Gathered Pepum _ .. 115
02. Peated Pepum 117
03. rcuar Pepum 119
SE T
The asc Seeve Patterns (Sopers)
T. Ma ng the tted Seeve Soper 121
2. Testng the tted Seeve Soper 126
3. Ma ng the Straght Seeve Soper 127
4. Shouder Pad Aowance 129
SE T
Seeve Patterns
1. e Seeve 131
2. /shop S/eevo 133
3. Pan tted Seeve wth Gathered ap 135
4. Pan tted Seeve wth Darted ap 137
5. shop Seeve wth Gathered ap 139
6. Meon Seeve 141
7. Three uarter tted Seeve wth Gathered ap 143
8. Puff Seeve .....145
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UT E U SE -cont d
SE T S
oar Patterns
ESS . PAGE
S . at Peter Pan oar 1 47
52. at Saor oar 148
53. Pefer Pan o/far wth Sght o 149
54. oed Ponted oar 151
55. otched ( onvertbe) oar 153
56. Shaw oar 155
57. ohnny o//ar 157
58. Mtary and oar 158
SE T T
uff Patterns
T1. Ponted uff wth gh tted rstband 1 59
T2. rench uff ., ... 161
SE T
ouse Sopers
. asc oose- tted ouse S/oper (wth an underarm dart) 163
2. asc oose- tted ouse Soper (wthout an underarm dart) 165

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UT E U SE -cont d
SE T
ouse Patterns
ESS . PAGE
. Smpe /ouse wth Te oar 167
2. utton ac /ouse wth ront Tuc ng 169
3. Sport ouse wth o e 171
4. ouse wth Deep uttoned o e 173
SE T
Msceaneous Dress Patterns
. utton ront Dress wth Assymetrc osng 175
2. Prncess Dress 179
3. Dress wth osed Mdrff Secton 181
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T DU T
Thousands of years ago the orgna and nstnctve approach to
cothng constructon was smpy to wrap matera about the shouders, aowng
t to drape freey over the body, and bndng t around the wast. Ths
eementary form of drapng was used n such costumes as the Grecan obe and
the oman Toga.
Drapng as a method of constructon evoved thru the ages unt t
has reached ts pea n the ntrcate desgnsof the Pars coutourers. Atho
drapng s an effectve method t s ute tme-consumng and re ures
consderabe s .
Toward the atter part of the Seventeenth century the practce of
draftng new styes wth the taor s s uare came nto use but t faed to
obtan any astng popuarty n the womens fashon fed due to ts dffcuty
of appcaton to new styes. t s st popuar on stape types of men s and
chdren s cothng, whch change ony sghty from year to year.
Eary n the Twenteth entury, progressve pattern desgners n
typca Amercan tradton, began to streamne drapng and draftng methods.
They deveoped an mproved method of pattern ma ng popuary nown n the
ndustry as the soper method . Many home dressma ers who utze a basc
pattern to ma e up new styes are unconscousy usng ths same method. The
Mayer Method has successfuy combned the use of the soper or foundaton
pattern wth drapng and draftng, to produce a system of pattern ma ng that
s both accurate and smpe. t s based on the e perence of Mr. A. Mayer n
the cuttng of thousands of orgna patterns for manufacturers and
department stores.
Ths method s used amost unversay wthn the ndustry by
practca desgners and patternma ers. Through the smpfed use of the basc
pattern or soper t s possbe to ma e patterns of any stye uc y and
accuratey. A styes made from the soper must conform to the basc ft of
the soper tsef. ne of the great advantages of ths system of ma ng
orgnas s that drapng, whch s very tme-consumng, s practcay
emnated.
Dressma ers fnd that the Mayer Method produces a more accurate and
unform ft and yet saves consderabe tme n ma ng an orgna garment,
b pert men s custom taors are aso usng the method e tensvey. ot ony s
tme saved n the patternma ng and cuttng of garments, but there s aso a
reducton n the number of fttngs and ateratons, snce the basc soper
ft s aways retaned. Snce each pattern must conform to the basc pattern,
the fnshed pattern of any partcuar stye fts essentay the same as the
basc pattern from whch t was made. Ths assures a unform ft for a styes.
Manufacturers re ure patterns for many dfferent reasons. Patterns
are needed for the producton of uanttes of dentca garments. They are
needed for re-orders of the same stye at a ater date. Patterns are used for
the most accurate cacuaton of yardages of matera. n fact, t may be
stated that the mass producton of cothng coud not be carred out wthout
the use of patterns.
The ma or ob ectve of ths course s to teach the ma ng of patterns
accordng to any fashon ustraton or s etch. A secondary ob ectve s to
teach the ma ng of a pattern from any garment. n masterng these thngs the
student w automatcay earn many of the prncpes of fttng.
opyrght 950 Mayer Pubshng o 229 ert 34 St. ew or 18. .
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T E P P E T E DA T
1
T E P P E
TT G MATE A T
T E A US T U S
T E UMA M
ES T E P PE
APP AT T E
P P E T E
DA T . T E G
E E SE SE E
T UST ATE T E
PE AT T S
P P E.
ut out a rectange of paper
15 by 9 . Pn to form. ote
that t e tends away from
the form.
r
Draw a ne dvdng the
sheet n haf engthwse.
Mar D on ths ne 7 from
the bottom.
T
rom D draw nes D and
DT to ponts 2 on each sde
of center ne.
rease ne DT.
od creased ne DT to
ne D and pn n ths
poston. TE: The paper
no onger es fat but has
ac ured depth t has aso
become narrower at the
bottom.
Ths fod, whch starts
wth a wde base at the
bottom of the sheet and
tapers to a pont (at D) s
caed a SE) DA T. The
dart gves depth to th paper.
Pace ths sheet over the
human fgure or a dress form
wth D at the pont of the
bust. TE: The sheet begns
to conform to the shape of
the fgure.
y the proper use of
the prncpe of the
dart n patternma ng,
t s possbe to ft
the varous contours
of the human form.
pen the dart and pace the
paper on the tabe. The -
shaped space between nes
D and DT s an PE DA T.
oDvroht 960 Maver Pubshnu o 3M U
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D AP G T E T D E
r
AT S T E P EM
To ft the musn
over the front of
the dress form. A
dart w be used to
ad ust the d f ference
between the fu bust
and the n a rro we r
wst. Ths front
ast dart s caed
fe UST T DA T.
: o aowance for shouder pads w be
snce ths foundaton w be used wth
fferent sze shouder pads.
The method of ma ng shouder pad aow-
nce w be shown n a future esson.
To drape the sze 12 front,
use a pece of musn at
east 15 by 22 .
Use the sevedge (fnshed
edge) for the 22 edge.
TE: A medum weght musn
or ts e uvaent s best
to use.
f there s no sevedge
pu out a engthwse thread
of the fabrc to obtan a
straght edge.
od the fabrc straght
aong the ne of the
pued thread.
Pn the sevedge or a
pded straght edge aong
center front seam ne,
ng the upper edge about
above the nec ne at
center front.
Space pns about
1 1/2 apart.
Genty smooth the musn
(on the crosswse gran)
from the center front to a
pont about hafway down
the armhoe curve and pn n
poston as shown.
AUT :
stran.
Do not pu or
Smooth the musn to mane
t e fat between the nec
and the shouder.
od the musn n pace
wthout stranng (note fod
at base of nec ).
Set the musn wth a pn
ust beyond the shouder
seam at base of nec .
To emnate the fod at
the nec , sash the musn
down toward the nec ne.
AUT : Sash ust ow
enough to emnate the fod
f sashed too ow, the
musn must be redraped.
S etch n the nec ne and
set a row of pns aong the
penced nec ne.
10
11
Tro musn to wthn
1/2 of nec ne seam.
Pace a pn at the center
f the shouder ne.
Snooth musn over hgh
ont of bust and pn at
ont of bust.
Sash from upper edge of
musn to wthn 1/4 of
shouder to ma e musn e
fat.
Set a row of pns aong
the shouder seam.
Smooth the musn across
the chest over to the arm-
hoe, ettng t e natur-
ay and somewhat oosey
at the hoow (mar ed )
between the armhoe and the
hgh pont of bust.
Pn aong upper haf of
armhoe seam.
Smooth the musn from the
bust pont to the ower por-
ton of the armhoe and ma e
a dot where the armhoe sean
meets the sde seam.
ase the musn sght
to brng the dot 1/16
hgher.
Pn n pace.
(rght 0 Mayer Pubshng o. 229 est 34 5t ew or 18. . .
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D AP G T E T D E
Set a row of pns aong
the remanng armhoe seam.
Smooth musn from ower
porton of armhoe downward
and across ower porton of
sde seam, as shown.
Set a row of pns 1/2
beyond sde seam.
bmooth the musn from the
center front downward unt
t es fat for about 4
aong wastne, and pn.
Sash musn amost to
wastne to ma e t hug
wast.
. easure the dstance from
the pont of bust to center
front ne. Subtract 3/4
from ths measurement. Mar
off the resutng dstance
on the wastne from the
center front.
Pace a pn at the wast-
ne mar . Draw a ne from
pn to pont of bust.
Smooth the musn from t
sde seam downward towa
fod of musn unt t
musn es fat on t
wastne.
Sash musn amost
wastne to ma e t 11
fat.
Pn from sde sea
across to t hc pn.
17
E amne the .drape: The
upper part from the bust to
the nec and shouder must
ft wthout stretchng or
wrn ng.
The wdth of the foded
bust contro dart vares
from 1 1/2 to 2 dependng
on the dfference n sze
between the bust and the
wast. t s the sze of
the dart whch contros to
a great e tent the correct
ft of the garment. The
musn s now ready to be
mar ed.
18
Pnch and pn the e cess
matera nto a dart whch
begns at the wastne and
tapers to a pont at the
hgh pont of the bust (use
the penc ne as one sde
of the dart).
Ths s the UST T
UA T.
oow the nec ne care-
fuy wth a soft penc.
Mar the shouder seamne
up to the very edge of the
nec ne.
Mar the sde seamne
aong seam of dress form.
To mar the armhoe foc
the edge of the form, cur
ng around the armpate
the ower porton of the ar
hoe curve.
21
22
Pn aong wastne wth
dart hangng free. Mar
wastne at ower edge of
Mar for a notch on the
sde seam at e acty 4 be-
ow armhoe.
tesocrr
Mar aong sde of dart
nearest sde seam, foow-
ng the ne of the pns.
TE: The other sde of
the dart was mar ed n step 13.
Trm off e cess musn to
wthn 1 1/2 of the mar ed
outne on nec , shouder,
armhoe, sde and wastne
edges.
emove pns aong shoude
and sde seams. od ove
the 1 1/2 of musn e act 1
on the shouder and sd
seams.
Pn n pace carefuy
opyrght 0 Myer Pubshng o. 2 est 34 St. ew or 8.
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D AP G T E A D E
AT S T E P EM
To ft musn over
the bac of the dress
form. The form huges
n the shouder bade
area. The bac s
wdest across the
shouder bades and
s narrowest at the
wastne.
TE: o aowance for shouder pads w be
ade snce ths foundaton w be used wth
fferent sze shouder pads.
The method of ma ng shonder pad aow-
nce w he shown ater.
ut a pece of musn at
east 15 by 22 . Pn a
traght engthwse edge
sevedge f possbe) to
he center bac seam of the
cde form, havng the upper
edge about 3 above the
nec ne.
Space .pns 1 1/2 apart.
Smooth musn straght
across shouder bade (on
he crosswse gran) and pn
n poston as shown.
Snooth the musn around
e base of nec and hod t
pace wth a pn at the
of shouder seam.
Sash downward amost to
c ne seam to emnate
e rppes over the nec -
ne seam.
Smooth the musn over the
nec ne seam.
Trace the outne of the
nec ne seam.
Pn aong the nec ne
tracng.
Smooth the musn over the
shouder and pn musn at
center of shouder ne.
Smooth the musn downward
from the center bac and over
the wastne for about 4 .
Sash musn amost to
wastne to ma e t e fat.
Pn at wastne same ds-
tance from center as pn n
step 14 (on the front).
Pn a tape measure betweer
the wastne pn and the pn
at the center of shouderne.
Ad ust tte tape so that t
s straght. beow the
shouder bade area and curv-
ng gracefuy nto the
shouderne.
TE: onve sde of the
tape curve s toward the
center bac . .
10
T
Draw a ne between the
wo ponts usng the tape-
easure as a gude.
Stand severa feet from
- he form and e amne the
ape measure for grace of
:urve. Ad ust pacement f
ecessary to resembe the
rve shown n s etch.
Smooth the musn from the
center bac to the armhoe
unt t es fat between
the center bac and the
ower part of the armhoe.
Pn near armpate at a
pont about 2 beow center
of armhoe curve.
Draw e acty 1 1/2 o
matera at the wastne
nto a 3/4 fod at th
wastne pn.
Taper the fod nto a dart
wth ts pont 7 above the
wastne foowng the pen-
c ne as one sde of the
dart.
emove pn at shouder bade.
Mar a pont on t h
shouder ne 3/8 beyonc
the pn at center o:
shouder, and brng ths
pont to the pn.
Pn n a dart, (usng th
penc ne as one sde 01
the dart) whch tapers to
pont 2 3/4 beow th
shouder ne.
yrght 9S May.
t 34 St. ew or 18,
er Pubshng o. 229 es
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D AP G T E A D E
Smooth the musn upward
across the shouder bade
area to the end of the
seam.
Set a row of pns aong
the shouder seam.
Smooth the musn straght
across the shouder bade
and pn at mdde of armhoe
curve. Then smooth from the
shouder bade underneath
the armhoe curve and pn n
pace at top of sde seamne.
Set a row of pns aong
armhoe curve.
s
Smooth the musn as shown
from the shouder bade area
downward and across the sde
seam unt t es fat on
the wastne and sde seam.
Sash musn amost to
wastne.
Pn aong wastne.
Set a row of pns 1/2
beyond sde seamne.
E amne the bac mus
drape.
The wast tfart treasure
3/4 foded and the shoud
dart measures 3/16 fode
There must be no stran
or dstorton of cot
The musn s now rea
to be mar ed.
Trace the nec ne care-
fuy wth a penc.
Draw the shouder ne up
to the very edge of the
nec ne.
Trace the sde seam of the
dress form.
avng the wast dart e -
tended out from form, draw
the remanng unmar ed sde
of the dart on the ne of
the pns.
Draw the remanng un-
mar ed sde of the shouder
dart n the same manner.
To mar the armhoe begn
at the shouder and draw a
curve around the armpate.
Mar the wastne aon
the ower edge of the tape
f r for a notch on th
sde seam at e acty 4 be
ow armhoe.
TE: hec to see that th
4 mar meets the 4 mar
that was made on the fron
sde seamne.
20
21
22
hec the front and bac
musa drapes. The foded
edges of the front must
meet the foded edges of the
bac .
The nec ne curve of
front and bac must meet n
an even curve.
The armhoe curves of
front and bac must meet at
the shouder and must meet
n an even curve at the
sde seam.
The wastne of front and
bac must meet perfecty.
Trm off e cess musn to
wthn 1 1/2 of the mar ed
outne on the nec , shouder
armhoe, sde and wastne
edges.
emove pns from shouder
and sde seams. od over
the 1 1/2 of musn e acty
on the shouder and sde
seams.
Pn n pace carefuy.
opyrght 1950 Mayer Pubshng o. 229 est 34 St. ew or 18, . 1
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E T G T E D E D APE T A S PE
EAD G T E S ET - The
draped bodce s shown
spread out fat.
t has rreguar nstead
straght nes.
The arnhoes are too
s and have not been
dened to provde bustne
se.
Each dart has not been
baanced for e ua ength
of sdes.
The shouder and sde
seam have not been e acty
atched for e ua ength
between front and bac .
AT S T E P EM orrectons must be made to remedy any of the
above defects.
f the arnhoes were mar ed around the armpate of a dress form, they
t be dropped 3/4 at the ower ends and e tended outward 1/4 to 1/2
dependng upon the amount of ease desred (1/4 w provde 1 ease,
and 1/2 w provde 2 ease) about the bustne.
f the bodce was draped over the ndvdua the ease shoud have been
provded n the drape f t was not, however, the ease s added now.
The fnshed soper bustne shoud be about 2 arger than the
person for whom t s made.
The corrected bodce drape s made nto a cardboard soper (foundaton
pattern).
TE: The soper s the basc pattern from whch many other patterns
are to be made.
There s one wast dart n the front (caed the bust contro dart ).
y the manpuaton of ths dart t s possbe to ater the soper
nto nany dfferent styes.
th a ruer straghten the sde seamnes and
front shouder ne.
Straghten a dart nes, but do not rue
across the dart spaces.
TE: The curve of the shouder ne s some-
tmes retaned for custom made garments as t
acheves a sghty better ft.
The curved ne may be drawn on the fnshed
soper ater, and then used when desred.
Pace the transparent paper wth straght
edges of the sheet over the center nes of
the musns. f a tracng whee s used
Pace the musn over the sheet of paper.
Spread the musn so that t es smoothy
ut stretchng and pn n pace,
the edges and dart nes.
emove musns.
egnnng about the center of the arm
hoe, deepen the curves graduay to
depth of 3/4 at the sde seamnes.
E tend the curves 1/4 beyond the sd
seamnes.
Draw n new sde seamnes from enc
of corrected curve to a pont 1/8 fro
wastne as shown.
TE: The front armhoe has a somewhat
deeper curve than the bac armhoe.
od and pn a darts competey
to the edges of the paper.
ut out the front and the bac
wth the darts pnned cosed.
f one sde of a dart s onger
than the other sde, the shorter sde
must be engthened by reshapng the
seamne to r.eet the onger dart
ne. An e ampe of ths s shown or
the bac wast dart ony, but ths
correcton w probaby be needed
on a darts.
Mayer Pubshng o. 229 est 34 St. ew or 18. .
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E T G T E D E D APE T A S PE
E T EEDED
Match shouder seams wth shouder dart pnned cosed.
The shouder edges of front and bac must be e acty the
same ength.
The nec ne must be a smooth even curve.
Ma e correctons f necessary.
TE: The e tenson formed by cuttng the foded dart s
caed a og.
The og s needed to e tend the dart so that t nes up
eveny wth the seamne.
The shape of the og vares wth the shape and sze
of the dart.
E T E U ED
( A A M E T G)
T S STEP S T E U ED T E S U DE SEAM A
TTED D DUA USE AS ESS g. STEP 2.
or commerca and average sze patterns the correc
pacement of shouder seam s determned by comparng tht
reatve engths of front and bac armhoe curves.
Measure around curve A to . preferaby wth a fe b
pastc ruer. Measure around curve to . The ength o
front armhoe A to shoud be from 1/4 to 1/2 ess tha
the ength of bac armhoe to . f ths dfference does
not automatcay occur, a correcton w have to be made.
Ths s done by movng the shouder seam by trmmng of
a pece of one shouderne and pastng the trmmed off sec-
ton onto the other shouder.
a
emove pns from shouder dart.
Match sde seams notch to notch.
f ends of sde seams do not match, engthen the shorter
nes to match the onger ones.
ront and bac of armhoe must meet n a smooth even
surve correct curve f necessary.
Study the armhoe shape.
otce that the bac armhoe s curved so that t-w
provde ma mum wdth for movement, whereas the front of
the armhoe s cut out more deepy to avod bndng the
underarm.
Pn the bust contro dart
of the front pattern. Pn
center front of pattern to
center front of mode form.
Pn pattern to shouder
ne, wastne, and sde
seamne.
10
Pn both darts of bac
pattern.
Pn center bac of pattern
to center bac of mode
form and proceed as n step 8.
11
emove pattern from form and unpn darts.
Snce the pattern s to be used repeatedy t shoud be
made n cardboard or heavy paper.
od the pattern down to the cardboard wth pns.
Trace the outne of the pattern and trace the darts.
ut out the permanent soper. abe soper T and A 1
hec the curves for evenness of contour. otch the
ends and perforate the ponts of a darts.
opyrght 1950 Mayer Pubshng o. 229 est 34 S. ew or , .
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AT G SEAM ES T E UMA M
A.
Drapng a soper over the human form s bascay the
sane as n essons A2 and A3 (drapng over the dress form).
Tbere are probems, however, whch arse when drapng over
the human form whch must be specay handed. Some of
these probems are:
) hereas the dress form s mmobe, a person changes
posture many tmes durng a fttng uness carefuy watched.
) A good dress form has seamnes (wast, shouder,
sde seams, center front, center bac ) whch may be foowed
n nar ng the pattern. These nes must be ocated and
estabshed ndependenty when drapng onthehuman fgure.
) The human form may be atered by foundaton garments.
The person to be ftted must wear her usua foundaton
garments. ver these must be worn a snug fttng garment
such as a ersey shrt and a we-ftted sp.
) The bodce garment or shrt may shft ts poston
on the body and must therefore be pnned at severa ponts
to the brassere and shouder straps.
) The foowng seamnes and darts must be carefuy
estabshed by rows of pns, a) Shouder seams, b) ast-
ne, c) Sde seams, d) enter front ne, e) enter bac
ne, f) ec ne, g) ront wast darts, h) ac wast and
shouder darts, ) Armhoe.
MA
SEAM E
MA / U DE.
.S UU Dfc SEAMS - The
houder seams e tend from the
ps of the shouders to the
ase of nec and run drecty
ong the tops of the shouders,
he ength of the seams average
. roe 4 1/2 to 5 1/2 (About
n sze 12). Measure seams
from the ends of shouders.
E
SEAM
E
U D U DEP
b) To compensate for round
shouders the shouder seam
may be moved bac sghty at
the armhoe.
2
E
SEAM
E
/M U DE
c) r to provde a more
femnne ne for especay
s uare shouders, the shouder
seam may be moved forward
sghty at the armhoe.
d) Penc n the shouder
seamne n the desred
poston. Set a row of fat
pns aong the penced
shouder ne.
b) A ST E - Te a cord around
waat. Ad ust the eght of the
ord to the wearer s preference
(ta ng nto consderaton the cur-
rent node). Set a fat row of pns
ong the cord about 1 apart com-
etey around the wastne. emove
:ord.
5 DE5EAM
c) S DE SEAMS - Draw a ver-
tca ne from the mdde of
each armpt to the wastne.
A weght on the end of a strng
may be used to determne the
true vertca. Set a fat row
of pns aong each sde seam ne.
M D- T
E
E TE
E
M1D-P T
/A ST 1
d) E TE T E - The center front
ne e tends n a straght ne from the md-
front nec to the md-front wast. The md-
front of the nec s ocated at the hoow at
the base of the nec the md-front of the
wast s ocated by measurng on the wast-
ne from the sde seam to sde seam and d-
vdng the measurement n haf to ocate the
e act mdde. The two mdponts are then
oned by a straght row of faty set pns
to form a center front ne.
Mar Pubshng o. 229 est 34 St. ew or 18, . .
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AT G SEAM 1 ES T E UMA M
E TE
E
E TE
A
1 E
M1D- /M T
P 1 T
e) E TE A E - The center
bac ne e tends from the top of the
bone at the bac of the nec (cervca)
to the md-wast pont. The md-wast
pont s ocated n the same manner as
on the center front wast. A row of
pns s aso set to ndcate the center
bac ne.
f) E E - The nec ne shoud be
as hgh as possbe wthout nterferng
wth the comfort of the wearer. n
front t passes through the upper end
of the center front ne n bac t
passes through the upper end of the
center bac ne. At the sdes t meets
the ends of the shouder seams.
After the four ponts have been o-
cated the nec ne curve may be drawn.
f the nec ne of the garment beng
worn s too ow. the nec ne cannot
be mar ed unt ater, when the musn
s draped over the bodce.
g) T A ST DA TS - The fror
wast dart does not drop vertca
from the pont of the bust, but sope
nward toward the center of the form
Measure the dstance from pont o:
bust to the center front ne. Mar
off ths dstance ess 3/4 from ts
center front on the wastne, (o
both sdes). Pace a pn fat agans
the form at each mar to ocate owe:
ends of the wast darts. Set a fa
row of pns to represent the poston
of each wast dart.
S U DE
M D-P 1 T
h) A A ST A D S U DE DA TS - The bac wast art s the same dstance from the-
center bac wast as the front wast dart was from the center front wast, pace a pn
at ths dstance at each sde of the center bac wast pont.
Pn a tape measure between the md-shouder and wastne pn (on each sde) aow
sane ooseness n the tape so that t may be curved to conform to an attractve prncess
curve as shown n the s etch. ote that the curve s amost straght aong ts owest
7 , and that t curves snoothy nto the shouder.
Set a row of pns faty aganst the fabrc up to 7 above the wast. Set another row
of pns from the shouder to 2 3/4 beow the shouder.
) A U E - ghty
the an.hne curve. f a ers.
shrt s be ng worn the arnho
w probaby have to be mad
deeper as ersey garment
usuay have shaow armhoes
t may be possbe to use
seeveess garment as a gud
for drawng the armhoe. Set
fat row of pns aong the arm
hoe ne.
TE: The shape of the arm
,.o srov a tar ha art stprf
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AD UST G T E D E T T T E D DUA
AT S T E P EM
A TE T E ES T E AS PATTE E E A D UT
T E UMA M AS ST U TED ESS A5. T E
T AS T E D APED E A T E D A D-
A E T T E D E T S G E ESS S A2 A D A3.
T E A MUS D E MUST E T ED T E
U M DE T E TEST TTED. T E D APED
PATTE T E E STUD ED E T ESS T.
AD USTME TS MUST E MADE E U ED. SEAM A A ES
MUST E G EATE T A USUA AS T MA E E ESSA T
ET UT S ME SEAMS.
Trace each soper (front and bac ) on to a sheet of
ghtweght paper or tssue. Add a 1 seam aowance to
the shouder and sde edges of front and bac . Add an
addtona 3 aong the wastne edges. ut out the
tssue sopers wth the added seam aowances.
TE: o seam aowance was made at the armhoe and
nec edges because t s dffcut to ft these edges
then seams are aowed. An e tra arge seam aowance was
gven at the shouder and sde seam edges, however, to
permt ad ustments f re ured. E tra ength was aso
aowed at the wastne to permt a fna wastne
ad ustment f re ured.
UT T
E E
Pn the new bac soper on a foded pece of musn
wth the on the foded edge. Pn the new front on a
foded pece of musn wth the 1 away from the
foded edge. ut out the musn sopers.
Trace n the shouder and underarm nes of both sopers
and trace n the bac shouder dart. n the front soper,
cut aong the fod edge to separate the two sectons of
the front.
3
.
Pn n the bac shouder darts on the dart nes. Pn
the front to the bac at the shouder and underarm edges,
pacng the pns aong the traced n seamnes. Draw n
the center bac ne.
TE: The wast darts were not pnned.
AUT : The person to be ftted shoud wear the founda-
ton and undergarments she usuay wears.
Put the musn on the ndvdua and pn the center
front edges together n a 1 seam.
M yer Pubshng o. 229 est 34 St ew or S, . .
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16
AD UST G T E D E T T T E D DUA
ttng on a person dffers n severa re-
spects from fttng on a dress form:
ttng s done more oosey on the
ndvdua. The reason for ths s that a
sze 12 dress form s made sghty fuer
than a sze 12 person so that t aows
for some ease n the garment. The garment
must be vabe - the person must be
abe to move freey. ecause the dress
form s bgger, the musn can be ftted
snugy on the dress form, yet the resut-
ng ft w gve the wearer the necessary
freedom of movement. ut when drapng on
the ndvdua, the musn must be ftted
oosey enough so that t s comfortabe
to the wearer at the tme of the fttng.
The wastne s ftted as cosey as
rossbp wthout sacrfcng comfort.
t s necessary to ft the whoe fgure.
The rght haf of the fgure shoud be
ftted wth pansta ng care. The eft
haf of the fgure shoud be ftted ap-
pro matey the same as the rght. owever,
ony the rght haf w be mar ed and
used to ma e the fnshed soper uness
the rght and eft sdes of the fgure
dffer greaty.
TE: Amost every person nas one shouder
hgher than the other. Ths probem can be
easy anded by ma ng the soper for
the sde of the fgure that s hghest.
Then the ower shouder can be but up n
the fnshed garment by usng a thc er
shouder pad on that sde.
A7/- ST
/ P T
TE: efore dong Step 6, t s necessary to read Steps 7 and 8 be-
cause operatons whch are carred out n 7 and 8 may cause changes n
what was done n Step 6. Actuay Steps 6, 7, and 8 are not ndependent
steps. or e ampe, f an ad ustment s made on the sde seam n Step 7,
a change may be re ured on the rarts whch were nade n Step 6.
Pn the wast darts, but chec the underarm seams to see that they fa
drecty downward from the armpts as the darts are beng pnned. f the
front dart s too arge t w cause the underarm seam to pu toward
the front. Smary, f the bac dart s too arge, the underarm seam
w pu toward the bac .
The musn s the correct sze for the ndvdua f
appro matey 2 of e cess fabrc can be pnched nto a
fod at the eve of the bust. The s etch shows 1 ease
(1/2 fod) on each sde. The amount of ease, however,
can vary wth ndvdua taste.
The wastne shoud be ftted snugy. Ad ust the
sde seam by pnnng the seam deeper or shaower unt
the desred ft s acheved.
8
hec the shouder seamne for pacement and effect
(see step 2) and ad ust f necessary.
9 arefuy rechec the ft of the musn. The nec ne shoud re ure tte, f any ateraton. f t needs to be
trmmed, do so at ths tme, eepng a smooth even curve at the nec edge. f the nec edge does not ft snugy t needs
to be hgher. n that case ma e a note of the necessary correcton and the correcton w be added ater when the
musn s transferred to paper.
ewse the armhoe may need sght correcton t can be trmmed or addtons can be made on paper ater. There shoud
be no dagona rppes.
The musn shoud ft smoothy and as cose to the body as possbe yet st gve the necessary ease for movement of
opyrght 1950 Mayer Pubshng o. 221 est M St. ew or S. . .
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AD UST G T E D E T T T E D DUA
10A
STEP 10 T E E S A SE ES
D A GS S G S ME T E
M STA ES T M G T U .
T ESE A E T E E T S T AT
A E M ST E T E E U ED. A
S UT . EA P EM S G E .
EAD T U T E P EMS A E U .
MA E A E ESSA E T S.
a) f the musn creates e tra
funess across the bac shouders,
remove pns from sde seam and
aow bac to drop down unt t
fts smoothy over the shouders.
Then repn the sde seam.
ote that the armhoe edge of
the bac s now ower than the
front. A sma pece of matera
w need to be added to the bac
and a new armhoe curve w have
to be drawn for the bac .
E T T
A
A M E
D PPED
10
b) f the musn creates e tra
funess from armhoe to bust,
remove pns from sde seam and
aow front to drop down unt t
fts smoothy over the bust. Then
repn the sde seam.
ote that the armhoe edge of
the front s now ower than the
bac . A sma pece of matera
w have to be added to the front
and a new armhoe curve w have
to be drawn for the front.
E T T
1 - .
T
A M E
D PPED
M S T
T E
AP -

c) f the musn does not hug
the bac nec , unpn the shouder
sear. and repn t, ta ng a deeper
seam on the bac edge at the nec ,
but eepng the same seamne on
the front.
The nec edge w not be even
because now the bac nec edge
w e tend toward the nec
sghty. The bac nec edge w
have to be trmmed so that t
w be even wth the front.
E T T
o. 229 est 34 St. ew or 18. . .
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AD UST G T E D E T T T E D DUA
D
M S T
d) f the garment rdes up from
the wast so that t s oose and
bouses between the bust and the
wast, the wastne s too tght.
The darts must be read usted so
that they are smaer, or the
underarm seamnes must be corrected
so that e tra wdth s obtaned
at the wastne.
10E
M S T
E T T
e) f there are dagona rppes
from the pont of the bust toward
the sde seam, a arger dart s
necessary.
A GE
DAPT
n order to rra e a arger dart,
the sde seam w have to be
et out to obtan more front
wdth. Pn the dart deep enough
so that the rppes dsappear.
Then pn the underarm seam as
necessary.
11
hec the wastne once agan by pacng a
tapemeasure around the wast and ad ustng t
unt t s n the correct wastne poston.
The pacement of the tapemeasure can be ad usted
somewhat to ndvdua taste.
th a penc, mar around the ower edge of
the tape on the rght haf of the front and the
rght haf of the bac .
1
)
E TE
A 1 E
E TE
P T E
Unpn center front edges and remove musn.
ut the musn straght down the center bac
ne. Use ony the rght haf of the musn.
Trace n the shouder and underarm nes of
both front and bac aong the ne of the pns.
f the darts were atered, trace n both sdes
of the ad usted darts by foowng the ne of
the pns. Draw n a smooth contnuous curve at
the wastne.
13
emove pns.
Trace and rue n the front shouder ne, underarm nes of front and bac and the wast darts. Ma e a smooth ne
aong the wastne edges.
onvert the musns nto a soper, foowng esson A4, but wth one e cepton: omt step 5.
n step 5 of that esson, the armhoe was owered and e tra ease was gven n the bust and the wast. Ths step s
not necessary now, because the draped soper was made wth a owered armhoe. And e tra ease s not added because
suffcent ease was aowed whe fttng, to provde for the comfort of the ndvdua.
opyrght 0 Mayer Pubshng o. 229 34 St ew or 18 t
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S U DE DA T

1
EAD G T E S ET
The nec ne s round
e the soper nec -
ne . There s a
dart whch drops down
from the center of
the shouder to the
hgh pont of the
bust.
E: A pattern wth the
tota bust contro dart at
the shouder s sedom used.
t s ncuded here merey
as an e ercse.
AT S T E P EM
The soper (whch has a bust contro dart
at the wastne) must be made nto a pat-
tern wth the bust contro dart at the
shouder.
Trace around a front soper
and cut out.
Mar the center front ( )
and the dart D T.
Mar the center of the
shouder G.
Draw ne
poston of
dart.
G for the
the shouder
ne T and fod t
ver to ne D to cose
wast dart.
Pn n pace.
hen cosng a dart
sways crease aong the
me nearest the center and
brng the crease to the
reganng ne.
ut or sash aong ne
GD to the pont of the dart.
Mar shouder dart
space G D G .
TE: Ths ma es the paper
e fat and creates the
correct amount of spread
for the shouder dart.
Pn wor ng soper on new
sheet-Trace a edges.
Trace n shouder dart
space.
emove wor ng soper.
TE: A wor ng soper s
any copy of the soper whch
has been sashed or cut n
some way.
rease aong 1 ne G D and
fod over to ne GD to cose
shouder dart space.
Pn n poston up to the
edge of the sheet.
TE: The cosed dart gves
depth to the paper and w
provde room for the bust.
10
U
A M
ut out pattern wth dart
pnned cosed.
Test 1 - ose the wast
dart of the soper.
ose the shouder dart of
the pattern.
Test the pattern on the
soper.
A correcty made pattern
w match the soper out-
ne e acty.
Test 2 - Pace pattern
wth dart pnned cosed on
mode form or on body to
see that t fts e acty
as the soper dd.
pen pattern to see og.
TE: The e tenson formed
by cuttng the foded dart
s caed a G.

1TS0 Myer Pubshng o. 229 est 34 St. ew or 18. .

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G
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E (S DE SEAM) DA T
1
EAD G T E S ET
The nec ne s round
e the soper nec -
ne. nstead of
the wastne dart
there s a dart at
the sde seam (caed
a rench dart) . t
starts about 2 1/2
above the wastne
and sants up toward
the hgh pont of
the bust.
AT S T E P EM
The bust contro dart must be shfted from
the wastne to the sde seam.
ut out a front soper.
Mar center front ( )
and mar dart D T.
Mar pont G on sde
seam 2 1/2 up from wast-
ne edge.
Draw ne G toD (the sash
ne).
TE: ne GD s the pos-
ton of the sde or rench
dart.
rease aong ne DT and
fod ths ne over to ne
D to cose wast dart.
Pn n poston.
TE: Ths ma es the depth
of the pattern whch ma es
room for the bust.
Sash aong ne G .
TE: Ths ma es the pattern
e fat and creates the
correct spread for the sde
dart.
Mar sde dart GDG.
Pn wor ng soper on new
sheet.
Trace around wor ng soper.
Trace n sde dart space.
emove wor ng soper.
TE: Sometmes the french
dart s shortened.
An e panaton of shorten-
ng darts w be gven n
esson .
od GD over GD to edge of
sheet and pn n poston.
TE: n a sde dart the
ne of the dart nearest
the wastne s foded up
to the remanng ne.
10
11
ut out pattern wth
dart cosed.
Test 1 - test on soper.
Test 2 - test
form or on body.
on mode
G
pen pattern to see og.
TE: The og s formed by
cuttng the pattern wth
the dart pnned cosed.
Mayer Pubshng o. 229 est 34 St. ew or S, . .
G
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2
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-
0
1
-
1
2

0
5
:
0
8

G
M
T


(
1
5
0
p
p

)


/


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6
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2
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1
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2

0
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:
0
8

G
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T


/


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#
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M AT A ST A D S U DE DA T
EAD G T E S ET
The nec ne s round
e the soper nec -
ne . There are darts
at the shouder and
at the wastne.
oth darts end about
2 from the pont of
the bust.
AT S T E P EM
The bust contro dart must be dvded and
one-haf of t shfted to the shouder.
The darts must be shortened so that they
do not meet each other at the pont of the
bust.
ut out a front soper.
abe dart D T.
Trm off og of dart
TE: hen a part of the
dart s shfted, trmmng
off the og of the bust
contro dart of the wor ng
soper ma es for easer
pattern ma ng.
Draw ne D , dvdng
dart space n haf.
Mar G at center of shouder
ne.
Draw ne D to G.
TE: ne GD s the pos-
ton of the shouder dart.
ose off 1/2 of the dart
by fodng DT over D and
pn.
TE: 1/2 of the dart (D T)
has now been foded away and
s ready to be shfted to the
shouder.
The other haf (D ) re-
nans at the wast.
Darts must be shortened
because the fu ength dart
causes too snug a ft.
n ths partcuar desgn
the darts woud meet each
other at the pont of the
bust f they were not
shortened they woud, there-
fore, gve the effect of a
seam.
ut even f a garment has
ony one dart, t must be
shortened to gve a sma
amount of ease across the
fu part of the bust.
Sash aong ne G to D.
TE: 1/2 of the bust con-
tro dart has been shfted
to the shouder.
Pn wor ng soper on new
sheet wth center front on
straght edge of sheet.
Trace around a edges.
utne wast dart (nes
D and D ).
TE: Do not rue across
dart spaces.
emove wor ng soper.
8
Draw a ne up from D thru
mdde of shouder dart
space.
Mar T on ths ne 2 up
from D.
Draw ne TG and TG for
the new dart.
11
Shorten the wast dart to
pont (2 beow D.)
new
the
od and pn both
darts straght out to
edge of the sheet.
AUT : e sure to use
the new dart nes
ut out the pattern wth
both darts st pnned
cosed.
229 3 St. ew or 18, . .
G
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)

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2
0
1
4
-
0
1
-
1
2

0
5
:
0
8

G
M
T


/


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#
p
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e
M AT A ST A D S U DE DA T

06
pen pattern to note ogs
that were formed by cuttng
pattern wth darts pnned
cosed.
Test on orgna soper
wthadarts pnned cosed.
The pattern must match the
orgna soper e acty.
14-
Pn pattern on no3e form
or on body.
ote e tra funess and
softness around bust pont
caused by shortenng the
darts.
TE: The softness w not
be so ready apparent n
paper but t s more evdent
when made up n fabrc.
opyrght 1950 Mayer Pubshng o. 229
est 34 St. ew or U. .
G
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)

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n

2
0
1
4
-
0
1
-
1
2

0
5
:
0
8

G
M
T


/


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#
p
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e
M AT A ST A D U DE A M DA T
1
EAD G T E S ET
The nec ne s round
e the soper nec -
ne. The wast dart
ends about 2 beow
the hgh pont of the
oust. The underarm
dart ends about 11/2
from the hgh pont
of the bust.
AT S T E P EM
The bust contro dart must be dvded
e uay between the wast and the underarm
dart. The darts must be shortened.
ut out a front soper and
mar n the usua manner.
ut off og of dart.
Dvde the bust contro
dart n haf wth ne D .
Mar pont G on underarm
seamne 2 beow armhoe.
Draw ne GD for poston
of underarm dart.
ose off and pn 1/2 of
bust contro dart by fod-
ng ne DT over D .
Sash from G to D
1/2 of the bust con-
tro dart has been trans-
ferred to the underarm.
The other haf (D ) re-
ans at the wast.
Pn wor ng soper on new
sheet wth enter front on
straght edge of sheet and
trace a edges.
Trace sde dart and re-
mander of wast dart.
Do not rue across dart
spaces.
emove wor ng soper.
Shorten sde dart to
pont , 1 1/2 n from D,
on center ne of dart.
onnect to G and G1 for
shortened under arm dart.
Shorten wast dart to
pont S, 2 from D on center
ne of dart.
ose off and pn both new
darts to the edge of the
sheet.
10
11
G
ut out pattern wth the
rt s pnned cosed.
06-
pen pattern to note ogs.
Test on soper.
Test on form or on body
Mayer Pubshng o. 2M t 3( St. ew or 8. . .
G
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)

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2
0
1
4
-
0
1
-
1
2

0
5
:
0
8

G
M
T


/


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.
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#
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G
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f
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a
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2
0
1
4
-
0
1
-
1
2

0
5
:
0
8

G
M
T


/


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:
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.
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2
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h
t
t
p
:
/
/
w
w
w
.
h
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t
h

t
r
u
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t
.
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/
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s
_
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#
p
d
-
g
o
o
g

e
M AT U DE A M A D S U DE DA T
EAD G T E S ET
The nec ne s round
e the soper nec -
ne. The shouder
dart ends about 2
above the hgh pont
of the bust. The sde
( rench) dart begns
about 2 above the
wastne and ends
about 1 from the
hgh pont of the
bust.
AT S T E P EM
The bust contro dart must be emnated
from the wastne and dvded e uay be-
tween the sde and shouder darts. The
darts must be shortened.
ut out a front soper
Mar pont G at center of
shouder.
Draw ne GD to get pos-
ton of new shouder dart.
Mar pont 2 1/2 up on
underarm seamne.
Draw ne D to get pos-
ton of rench dart.
ose off the entre bust
contro dart and pn.
Sash aong both sash
nes to wthn 1/16 of D.
TE: 1/16 s enough to
eep wor ng soper together.
Pn wor ng soper on new
sheet wth enter front on
edge of sheet, havng both
dart oepenngs e ua.
Trace around the wor ng
soper ncudng both darts
do not rue across dart
spaces.
emove the wor ng soper.
Shorten the shouder dart
2 n the usua manner.
Shorten rench dart 1 n
usua manner.
ose off and pn both
darts out to the edge of the
sheet.
AUT : e sure to use new
dart nes.
10
ut out the pattern wth
the darts pnned cosed.
Test on soper.
Test on mode form or on
body.

ght 9S0 Mayer Pubshng o 229 est 34 St ow or 18. . .

G
e
n
e
r
a
t
e
d

f
o
r

S
a
r
a
h

E

a
z

(
U
n

v
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r
s

t
y

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f

M
a
s
s
a
c
h
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s
e
t
t
s

A
m
h
e
r
s
t
)

o
n

2
0
1
4
-
0
1
-
1
2

0
5
:
0
8

G
M
T


/


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t
t
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:
/
/
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.
h
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d

e
.
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t
/
2
0
2
7
/
c
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o
.
3
1
9
2
4
0
5
9
2
4
9
9
6
5
P
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c

D
o
m
a

n
,

G
o
o
g

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-
d

z
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d


/


h
t
t
p
:
/
/
w
w
w
.
h
a
t
h

t
r
u
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t
.
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/
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s
s
_
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#
p
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g
o
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g

e
G
e
n
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a
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d

f
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S
a
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a
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a
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s

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a
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s
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t
s

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m
h
e
r
s
t
)

o
n

2
0
1
4
-
0
1
-
1
2

0
5
:
0
8

G
M
T


/


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t
t
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:
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/
h
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.
h
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.
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/
2
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7
/
c
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3
1
9
2
4
0
5
9
2
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6
5
P
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D
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/


h
t
t
p
:
/
/
w
w
w
.
h
a
t
h

t
r
u
s
t
.
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g
/
a
c
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s
s
_
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e
#
p
d
-
g
o
o
g

e
T A ST DA TS
EAD G T E S ET
There are two darts
e tendng about 5
above the wastne.
AT S T E P EM
The bust contro dart must be converted
nto two shorter darts at the wastne.
ut out a front soper.
Mar D, the pont of the
bust contro dart.
ose off and pn the
bust contro dart.
Press the pont of the
dart n so that the soper
curves nward and the pont
rests on the tabe.
Mar ponts G and on
wastne 1/2 on each sde
of outsde fod of dart.
rom ponts G and draw
two dart nes 5 ong,
parae to the outsde fod
of the dart.
TE: These nes mar the
poston of the two wastne
darts.
onnect the ends of the
new dart nes wth D, form-
ng sash nes.
10
11
Sash aong sash nes to
tthn 1/16- of D.
TE: As nes are sashed
part of the nsde fod of
the dart w be cut off.
Pn wor ng soper on new
sheet.
Pn center strp so that
spaces on each sde are
e ua.
Trace around wor ng soper,
drawng n edges of sash
openngs ony up to the 5
eve. emovewor ngsoper.
At the 5 eve, mar a
pont n the center of each
dart space.
onnect these ponts wth
ower ends of dart nes,
thereby formng darts.
9S0 May r Pubfhng o. TM est 34 St. ew or , . .
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-
0
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-
1
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0
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:
0
8

G
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9
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6
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D,
T A ST DA TS
D
ose off and pn the two
darts down to the bottom of
the sheet.
ut out pattern wth darts
cosed.
14
pen the pattern.
ote the ogs.
Perforate the top pont and
notch the bottom ends of
each dart.
Test on soper wth darts
cosed.
ote that the two darts
ta e up e acty the same
amount of funess at the
wastne as the orgna
bust contro dart.
16

Test on form or on body.
opyrght 0 Mayer Pubshng o. 221 est 34 St. ew or S. . .
G
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2
0
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-
0
1
-
1
2

0
5
:
0
8

G
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T


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2
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5
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2
4
9
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6
5
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#
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GAT E S AT T E S U DE
EAD G T E S ET
There are gathers at
the shouder endng
about n from
the ends of the
shouders. There s
a wastne dart.
AT S T E P EM
Part of the bust contro dart must be trans-
ferred to the shouder and converted nto
gathers.
ut out a front soper.
Mar notches 1 from each
end of shouder ne. TE:
The notches mar ends of
gathers.
Mar 5 ponts on shouder
ne between notches as shown.
Mar pont of dart D.
ut off og of dart.
onnect a ponts on the
shouder wth bust pont D
to form sash nes.
Draw a ne whch dvdes
the bust contro dart nto
1/3 and 2/3
ose off 2/3 of bust con-
tro dart and pn.
Sash aong sash nes to
wthn 1/16 of bust pont D.
Pn wor ng soper on new
sheet wth on straght
edge of sheet, spreadng
strps unt the spaces
between them are e ua
Trace around wor ng soper
r ng ony tops of strps.
Trace remanng 1/3 of
art and remove soper.
: The strps when spread
a curved shouder ne.
Draw a smooth even curve be-
tween notches at shouder,
touchng ony the hgh ponts
of the shouder curve.
Shorten wast dart 2 .
11
came
od the wast dart down
to the edge of the sheet
and pn.
ut out pattern.
06
pen pattern.
ut notches.
Perforate and notch wast
dart.
TE: There s a curve for
the gathers n contrast to a
og for the dart.
oprr9M 0 M.yer Pubshn, o. 229 e,t 34 St. ew or . . .
G
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2
0
1
4
-
0
1
-
1
2

0
5
:
0
8

G
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T


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GAT E S AT T E S U DE
12
Pace a ruer over shouder
edge and fod n a seres of
sma creases to smuate
gathers, n order to reduce
shouder to ts orgna
measurement.
Pn.
od and pn wast dart
n pace.
13
Test on soper.
14
Test on form or on body.
G
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2
0
1
4
-
0
1
-
1
2

0
5
:
0
8

G
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T


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S U DE TU S A D A ST GAT E S
1
EAD G T E S ET
There are four tuc s
spaced about 1 apart
and 4 ong.
TE: A tuc s a
sttched down fod
that does not end n
a pont. There are
gathers at the wast-
ne drecty beow
the hgh pont of
the bust.
AT S T E P EM
Part of the bust contro dart must be con-
verted nto four tuc s at the shouder.
The remander of the bust contro dart must
be converted nto gathers at the wastne.
ut out a front soper.
Mar a pont on shouder 1
to eft of nec edge.
Draw a 4 tuc ne down
from ths pont, parae to
the center front.
rom the center front ne
s uare a gudene ( )
across to the armhoe so
that t passes thru the ower
end of the tuc ne.
TE: The drawng shows a
taor s s uare.
A perfecty s uare card-
board may be used nstead.
Draw a tuc ne 1 1/2
away from armhoe edge of
shouder, parae to
center front.
Draw two more tuc nes
e uay spaced between the
outsde tuc nes.
onnect the ends of the
tuc nes wth hgh pont
of bust, D.
ut off og of dart.
ose off about 2/3 of
bust contro dart and pn.
Sash aong the four sash
nes to wthn 1/16 of D.
10
Eace the wor ng soper
new sheet,
n strps so that the
es between them are e ua.
Trace around wor ng
soper, drawng n tuc nes
as far down as gudenes.
Mar ponts andT at ower
end of dart.
emove wor ng soper .
To convert wastne dart
nto gathers, mar notches
1/2 (about fcaf the wdth
of the dart) on each sde
of ponts and T. Draw a
shaow curve about 1/4
beow wastne between
the notches.
E P A AT 10.
o matter how tghty the
matera between and T s
gathered, t s mpossbe
to meet due to the space
occuped by the gathers
themseves.
Therefore the wastne
w be arger than ts
orgna measurement.
f the space for gathers
s wdened 1/2 at each end,
the wastne may be reduced
to ts orgna measurement,
even f ponts and T do
not meet.
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2
0
1
4
-
0
1
-
1
2

0
5
:
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8

G
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T


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6
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D,
S U DE TU S A D A ST GAT E S
15
Pn tuc s up to the edge
of sheet.
ut out pattern wth tuc s
cosed.
6S
pen pattern.
otch tops and perforate
ower ends of tuc s.
TE: Two perforatons are
used to mar the bottom end
of each tuc .
ut notches at wastne
to mt gathers.
16
Pn tuc s n pace.
rease and pn a number
of sma peats between
notches at wastne to smu-
ate gathers, unt the wast
s reduced to the orgna
soper measurement.
Test on soper.
opyrght 1950 Mayer Pubshna o. 2 ert 34 St. ew or 18. .
G
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a
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f
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a
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s
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s
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)

o
n

2
0
1
4
-
0
1
-
1
2

0
5
:
0
8

G
M
T


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6
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#
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AD AT G ST E DA TS AT T E E
EAD G T E S ET
There are four 3
darts, spaced about
1 apart at the nec
edge. The darts
radate or spread
apart to about 2 at
the base. The w ast
darts are about 5
ong.
AT 16 T E P EM
Part of the bust contro dart mst be
shfted nto nec darts. The remander of
the bust contro dart must be shortened
to 5 .
- --
ut out a front soper.
n nec ne mar pont
G 1/2 from the center front.
Mar pont 1 to eft of
pont G.
Mar pont of dart D.
ut off og of dart.
Draw a 3 dart ne from G
so that t ends 1 from center
front ne.
Draw a 3 dart ne from
so that t ends 2 from bottom
of frst dart ne.
Draw a gude ne thru the
ower ends of these dart
nes.
onnect the ower ends of
the dart nes wth D. form-
ng sash nes.
ose off and pn one-
thrd of the bust contro
dart, eavng 2/3 for the
wast dart.
TE: Snce a smaer amount
of the dart s foded out,
ess buge w appear at
the ends of the stye darts.
Sash aong sash ne to
wthn 1/16 of D.
Pn wor ng soper on new
sheet so that the two spaces
at the nec edge are e ua.
10
11
Trace wor ng soper, draw-
ng stye dart nes ony as
far down as the gude nes.
Draw a ne across the
ower end of each openng.
Draw n the remanng 2/3
of the bust contro dart.
emove wor ng soper.
Pace the pont of each
dart n the center of the
space on a eve wth the
gude nes.
Draw n the sdes of the
stye darts.
Shorten wast dart to 1 1/2
beow bust pont.
od and pn the two stye
darts up to the edge of the
sheet.
od and pn the wast
dart down to the edge of
the sheet.
TE: The nec ne w not
be an even curve.
Pace orgna soper over
wor ng soper to correct
the curve of the wor ng
soper nec ne.
Draw n the orgna
soper nec ne so that the
new nec ne assumes the
sze and shape of the soper
nec ne.
, Puh hnn r.r,
774 .. U . .w or S
G
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)

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2
0
1
4
-
0
1
-
1
2

0
5
:
0
8

G
M
T


/


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7
/
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3
1
9
2
4
0
5
9
2
4
9
9
6
5
P
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a

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.
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#
p
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e
AD AT G ST E DA TS AT T E E
12
G
ut out pattern and open t.
ote the rreguar shapes
of the ogs due to the curve
of the nec ne. otch and
perforate the darts n the
usua manner.
13
Ma e a cean copy of the
pattern, beng sure to mar
the darts.
14
Test on soper.
15
Test on form or on body.
opyrght 950 Mayer Pubshng o. 229 est 34 St. ew or
G
e
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a
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d

f
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a
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s
a
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t
t
s

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m
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e
r
s
t
)

o
n

2
0
1
4
-
0
1
-
1
2

0
5
:
0
8

G
M
T


/


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7
/
c
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.
3
1
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2
4
0
5
9
2
4
9
9
6
5
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D
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a

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,

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o
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w
.
h
a
t
h

t
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s
t
.
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/
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s
s
_
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#
p
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-
g
o
o
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e
GAT E S AT T E E TE T
EAD G T E S ET
There are gathers at
the center front seam
on a eve wth the
bustne. The wast
dart s about 5
ong.
AT S T E P EM
Part of the bust contro dart must be
shfted to the center front and converted
nto gathers. Addtona space for gathers
must be obtaned by sashng and spreadng.
ut out a front soper.
Mar pont of bust D.
Trm off og of bust con-
tro dart.
S uare a ne from the
center front to D.
TE: Ths s the sash
ne for front funess.
Mar a notch 1 1/2 above
and 1 1/2 beow the sash
ne as shown.
ose off and pn 1/2 of
bust contro dart.
Sash aong sash ne
to D.
TE: The space thus re-
eased w not provde
suffcent spread for
gathers.
rom a pont 1 above sash,
s uare another sash ne
from to sde sea
Shorten wast dart 2
Sash aong sash ne to
wthn 1/16 of sde seamne
Pn wor ng soper on new
sheet, wth upper part of
center front seamne 1
from straght edge of sheet.
Pn down the upper porton
ony.
10
11
n the upper porton draw
a ne parae to center
front seamne.
Pace an arrowhead at top.
Ths ne ndcates the
gran ne.
Pn down ower porton ant
spread sash openngs as
foows:
a) 1 1/2 tmes the dstance
between notches for 1 1/2 to
1 gatherng.
b) 2 tmes the orgna
dstance for 2 to 1 gatherng
Trace around the wor ng
soper.
emove wor ng soper.
ontnuegranne downward.
emove sght ange from
sde seam for ease of sewng.
r retan shapng of sde
seam for a better ft.
Draw a smooth even curve
between the notches, curvng
out about 1/4 beyond the
short segment of ne as
shown.
a A/..4 ct
M.u ,
G
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a
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f
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a
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)

o
n

2
0
1
4
-
0
1
-
1
2

0
5
:
0
8

G
M
T


/


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2
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7
/
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3
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2
4
0
5
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2
4
9
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6
5
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D
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,

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GAT E S AT T E E TE T
ose off and pn wast
dart to the edge of sheet.
ut out pattern.
Trace to get a cean
pattern.
otch and perforate the
wast dart.
ut notches at edge.
14-
od and pn a seres of
sma peats at center front
between notches to smuate
gathers.
hec and ad ust center
front ne to center front
of soper, thereby pung
center front ne bac nto
a straght ne.
15
Pn wast dart and test
soper.
Test on form or on body.
opyrght 0 Mayer Pubsrng o. 2M est 34 St. ew or 8.
G
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G
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GAT E S A U D T E E E
EAD G T E S ET
The front nec ne
s gathered to wthn
about 1 of shouder
ne. There s a 5
dart at the wast.
AT S T E P EM
Part of the bust contro dart must be
shfted to the nec edge to provde 2 to 1
funess. Addtona funess must be ob-
taned, f desred.
Mar for a notch on nec -
ne (to mt gathers) 1
from shouder.
Dvde the nec ne of the
front soper nto 3 e ua
parts wth ponts G and .
Mar pont of dart D.
onnect G wth D.
rom pont draw a ne
to the wastne, parae
to the center front.
ut off og of dart.
.
ose off and pn 1/2 the
art.
Sash aong ne from
G to D.
Sash aong ne from to
wthn 1/16 of wastne.
Pn the wor ng soper on
a new sheet so that the
curved dstance between the
notch and the center front
s doube the orgna
measurement.
TE: Ths provdes enough
spread for 2 to 1 gathers.
Trace around the wor ng
soper, mar ng ony the
nec ne edge of the separ-
ated peces.
Trace the unfoded part of
the bust contro.
emove wor ng soper.
t e an even curve from
nouder to center front
te, passng t thru the
dde nec ne segment.
Shorten the wast dart 2 .
od and pn the wast
dart.
ut out pattern.
pen the pattern.
Perforate and notch the
wast dart.
ut the notch at the nec
edge.
od peats nto smuated
gathers and hod n pace
wth ceuose tape, pns,
or mucage.
od and pn wast dart.
Test on soper.
Test on form or on body.
Pyraht f u.
G
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2
0
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4
-
0
1
-
1
2

0
5
:
0
8

G
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(
1
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0
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)


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2

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E M AT G T E A S U DE DA T
EAD G T E S ET
There s no dart at
the shouder.
AT S T E P EM
The ease provded by
the shouder dart
may be retaned a-
tho the dart s not
sewn, or f desred,
the shouder dart
may be emnated
from the soper.
Method (retanng the
dart ease) s the preferred
method for custom-made
dresses and hgher prced
manufacturng.
Method (emnatng the
dart) s used many n
manufacturng ow prced
garments.
Ths method saves tme and
abor but t sacrfces ft
there s a oss of ease
across the shouders.
Trace front and bac soper.
n the bac soper draw the
shouder ne straght across
the og, thereby emnatng
the og.
Add 1/2 seam aowance
on front and bac shouder
nes.
ut out both sopers.
otch both shouders 1
from end of shouder nes.
Pn shouders together at
nec edge and armhoe edge.
n custom wor , seams whch
are to be eased n are
basted before beng sttched
by machne.
The addtona tme re-
ured for the two operatons
adds greaty to constructon
costs.
n mass producton s ed
operators ease n the onger
edge as they feed the seam
nto the machne.
Even so, that process .re-
ures more tme than t
ta es to sew two edges of
e ua ength together.
ose and pn wast darts.
Pace sopers on form.
Pn sde seams to form.
Pn remanng shouder
seams together matchng
notches, rppng bac
shouder to ft t to front
shouder.
emove and unpn sopers.
Mar ease n between
notches on bac pattern.
TE: or ng a onger
seamne nto a shorter seam-
ne s caed easng n,
the seam.
MET D
MET D
Trace and cut out the bac
soper.
ose and pn the shouder
dart.
Pn the outsde edges of
the wor ng soper to a new
sheet.
Spread the pattern as
wdey as possbe.
Trace a edges carefuy.
emove the wor ng soper.
ut out the pattern.
Test on form wth wast
dart cosed.
ote that the soper fts
propery at a seams as
before.
ny the ease across the
shouder bades s mssng.
pyrght 0 Mayer Pubshng o. 2M est 34 St. ew or 18, . .
G
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2
0
1
4
-
0
1
-
1
2

0
5
:
0
8

G
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T


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2
0
1
4
-
0
1
-
1
2

0
5
:
0
8

G
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T


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#
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T A S E G A DA T M S U DE T E
EAD G T E S ET
There s no shouder
dart. There are two
2 darts radatng
from the nec edge
about 1 from center
bac at nec ne.
There are gathers
at the wastne.
AT S T E P EM
The shouder dart must be transferred to
the nec . The wast dart must be converted
nto gathers.
ut out a bac soper
Mar pont E on nec ne
1 from center bac ne.
Draw a ne from E to
pont of wast dart.
To engthen the shoude
dart, draw a dotted ne dow
the center of the dart unt
t meets the ne drawn
bo . 2.
Mar the meetng pont of
these nes .
onnect pont wth upper
ends of dart nes.
od and pn shouder dart
down to .
Sash downward from E to .
The dart spread at nec -
ne shoud measure the same
as orgna shouder dart
space.
Pn wor ng soper on new
sheet.
Shorten nec ne dart to
2 1/2 .
Trace around edge or wor -
ng soper.
Mar ends of dart at
wastne.
emove wor ng soper.
)
11
den wast dart space
1/2 at each end of dart to
aow for gathers.
Deepen wastne gradu-
ay to about 1/4 beow md-
pont of dart.
TE: See esson D3 o 10.
od and pn nec dart up
to edge of sheet.
ut out pattern.
otch and perforate the
nec dart.
otch at wastne to mt
gathers.
rease and pn a seres of
sma peats at wastne to
smuate gathers, thereby re-
ducng wastne to sze of
orgna soper wastne.
Pn n nec dart.
Test on soper and test on
form.

229 est3tSt. ew or 18, . .
G
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2
0
1
4
-
0
1
-
1
2

0
5
:
0
8

G
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T


/


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2
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0
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2
4
9
9
6
5
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2
0
1
4
-
0
1
-
1
2

0
5
:
0
8

G
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T


/


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w
w
.
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#
p
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e
MU T P E A ST TU S
EAD G T E S ET
There are two tuc s
at the wastne
about 3 ong and 1
apart. There s a
shouder dart.
1
AT S T E P EM
The bac was t dart must be converted nto
two tuc s.
Trace around soper and
mar darts.
Mar pont of wast dart D.

ose off and pn wast

dart.
Draw 2 3 tuc nes 1/2
each sde of outsde fod of
dart and parae to the fod.
Draw a gude ne across
top of tuc nes.
onnect top of tuc nes
wth pont D.
Sash to wthn 16 of D.
TE: As the tuc nes are
sashed, part of the nsde
fod of the dart s cut off.
Pn wor ng soper on new
sheet wth center bac aong
straght edge of sheet.
Pn the foded secton so
that the two spaces are
e ua.
6
_ U
10
11
Trace outne of wor ng
soper, mar ng tuc nes
y to gude ne.
od the tuc s down to the
edge of the sheet and pn.
Draw an even wastne curve
across the foded tuc s.
ut out pattern.
pen the pattern.
Mar two perforatons to
show top ends of each tuc .
otch wastne to show
ower end of tuc s.
Mar and perforate shouder
dart.
ose off and pn the dart
and the tuc s of pattern.
Test on soper.
Test on form.
er Pubshng o. 229 t 31 St. ew or 18. . .
G
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)

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2
0
1
4
-
0
1
-
1
2

0
5
:
0
8

G
M
T


(
1
5
0
p
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)


/


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:
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2
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7
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c
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2
4
0
5
9
2
4
9
9
6
5
P
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D
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,

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:
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#
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G
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f
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a
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s
t
)

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2
0
1
4
-
0
1
-
1
2

0
5
:
0
8

G
M
T


/


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t
t
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:
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/
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.
h
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d

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.
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/
2
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7
/
c
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3
1
9
2
4
0
5
9
2
4
9
9
6
5
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D
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h
t
t
p
:
/
/
w
w
w
.
h
a
t
h

t
r
u
s
t
.
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s
s
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#
p
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g
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e
ED A T GAT E S

EAD G T E S ET
There s a straght
yo e over the upper
porton of the
shouders. There s
no shouder dart.
There are gathers
(1 1/2 to 1) n the
bodce at the yo e
seam paced drecty
above the wast dart.
-
AT S T E P EM
A yo e must be made. The shouder dart
must be emnated. Gathers must be ob-
taned n the bodce bac .
. .2
ut out a bac soper.
Mar pont sghty
above the mdde of the
armhoe curve.
S uare a gudene from
to .
Mar for notches about 2
from each end of yo ene.
ut off yo e. Mar on yo e,
Draw dotted ne thru
center of dart to yo ene
and mar pont M.
onnect upper ends of
dart wth M.
ose off and pn dart.
Pace yo e on new sheet.
Straghten ower edge of
yo e.Trace pattern.
Add seam aowance to
notched edge and e tend
notches.
emove wor ng soper.
ut out pattern and
abe t E.
ndcate fod on .

Trm the same amount from

the upper edge of the bodce
as was added to the yo e n
correctng yo ene (step 3).
Draw a ne thru center of
wast dart from wastne to
yo ene.
Draw a parae ne about
1 to the rght of ths ne.
ose off and pn 1/2
of dart.
Sash to pont of dart.
Sash remanng ne to
wthn 1/16 of wastne.
Pn wor ng soper on new
sheet wth on straght
edge of sheet.
Spread soper unt the
curved dstance between the
notches s 1 1/2 tmes the
orgna measurement between
the notches.
10
Trace around wor ng
soper.
Add seam aowance to yo e
ne and e tend notches.
otch and perforate un-
foded porton of wast dart.
emove wor ng soper.
od and pn dart down to
the edge of the sheet.
ut out pattern.
ndcate fod on .
abe pattern D E.
rease and pn a seres of
sma peats between notches
at upper edge of bodce to
smuate gathers.
Pn wast dart.
Pn yo e to bodce.
Test on soper.
Test on form.
229 est 34 St. ew or 18. . .
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U ED E A D E TED P EAT
EAD G T E S ET -
The yo e starts
sghty above the
mdde of the armhoe
curve and curves to
a pont 2 ower at
the center bac . t
curves graduay
unt, at 3 from the
center bac , t dps
abrupty. There s a
2 nverted bo peat
at center bac of
bodce.
AT S T E P EM
The yo e must be
shaped. The shouder
dart must be emnated.
An nverted bo peat
must be added to the
bodce.
TE: Atho measurements
are gven for drawng the
curved yo e, the curve may
be drawn free hand. t s
mportant to deveop an eye
for the stye nes of a
garment. Measurements are
gven for those who have not
yet deveoped ths sense of
proporton.

ut out a bac soper.

Mar pont A sghty above
the mdde of the armhoe
curve.
Mar pont E on 2 beow
the eve of A.
onnect ponts A and E
wth a gradua (yo ene)
curve that dps more
abrupty at 3 from center
bac ( ).
Mar notch on yo ene
about 2 from armhoe.
ut aong ne AE.
ar center bac ( )
on yo e.
ower the shouder dart to
the yo ene as shown.
ose off and pn dart.
ound off the pont of the
foded dart.
Trace wor ng soper on
new sheet wth added seam
aowance on the notched
edge.
E tend notch to edge of
pattern.
emove wor ng soper.
ndcate fod on .
abe pattern E.
Pn bodce on new sheet
wth center bac ( ) 2
from straght edge of sheet.
10
11
Trace around wor ng
soper and remove wor ng
soper.
Draw n seam aowance on
notched edge.
E tend notch on yo ene
to edge of pattern.
Mar fod ne on ne.
0 PUAT
rease aong center bac
fod ne and brng crease
to straght edge of sheet.
TE: 1/2 of a bo peat
has been formed.
ut out pattern and open
sheet.
ote the arge og at top
and very sght og at bottom
of bo peat.
ove over to straght
edge of sheet.
Mar t for fod of fabrc.
otch upper and ower ends
of fod ne.
otch and perforate wast
dart.
abe pattern D E.
opyrght TS0 Mtyer Pubshng o. 121 est 34 St. ew or 8, . .
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U ED E A D E TED P EAT
Pn both peces of pattern
on a foded sheet of paper
wth nes on the fod of
paper.
Trace nseamnes at yo e-
nes.
ut out pattern but do not
cut aong fod.
Ths s a compete pattern nstead of the usua haf
pattern. A whoe pattern s used n manufacturng because
fabrc ayouts are easer to cut when a fod of fabrc
s avoded.
pen the pattern. rease aong the fod nes n the
bodce and brng these creases to the center bac ne. Pn.
TE: A three pece bac may be made by cuttng aong
the under fod nes and then addng seam aowances
aone those nes.
Pn yo e to bodce.
od and pn darts.
Test on form.
opyrght 1750 May r Pubshng o. 2M t 14 St. ew or S, .
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6
U P E E A
EAD G T E S ET
The bac s dvded
nto four gores. The
center bac seam s
straght and the two
sde bac seams are
very sghty curved.
AT S T E P EM
The bac must be dvded nto center and
sde gores. To on the gores n sewng,
seam aowances must be made.
ut out a bac soper and
mar the two darts.
etter pattern as ndcated.
onnect ponts A and D
wth a very sghty curved
ne.
Mar for notches wth a
short ne across ponts
A and D.
TE: There shoud be no no-
tceabe rreguarty n the
curve at pont A or D f the
soper was made as shown n
esson A3, o 8.
Draw granne n sde
secton, parae to .
TE: henever a wor ng
soper s to be cut apart,
the granne must be nd-
cated on each secton.
ut out the spaces between
the dart nes.
TE: uttng out a dart
has the same effect as fod-
ng out a dart.
ut wor ng soper aong
ne AD, formng two gores.
TE: The gores are notched
correcty for onng.
Trace the sde gore on a
new sheet.
Enarge the curve between
the notches, curvng out to
about /ft mdway between
the notches.
ut out sde gore.
TE: y enargng the
curve, ease s gven.
s
2
U
D
11
Pn two sheets of paper to-
gether, eepng the cut edges
of the sheets perfecty even.
Pn both gores on new
sheets pacng ne 1/2
from straght edge of sheet.
Mar for notch on seam.
Add 1/2 seam aowance to
notched edges of both gores.
Move notches from seam
nes to cut edge of pattern
emove wor ng soper.
ut out pattern.
Pn the gores together
aong seam nes, matchng
notches ease the sde bac
secton to ft.
Test on soper and test on
form.
May r Pubshng o. 229 est 34 St. ew or 18. . .
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T EE P E E E A
EAD G T E S ET
The seam onng the
center and the sde
gores curves upward
from the wast nto
the annhoe. Th e
seam enters the arm-
hoe ahout 3 heow
the shouder. There
s no shouder dart.
AT S T E P EM
The ne of the wast dart must be curved
nto the armhoe to shape the gores. The
shouder dart must be emnated.
btan a bac soper wth-
out a shouder dart by usng
one of the methods descrbed
n esson .
ut out the bac soper.
Mar and trace the dart.
Mar on armhoe 3 down
from shouder.
Mar pont of dart D.
onstruct a curve from
D to .
Mar for notches as foows:
one between D and and two
on each sde of wast dart
about 2 beow D.
Mar granne n sde
secton parae to center
bac .
ut out the wast dart.
ut aong curved ne D ,
formng two gores.
abe E TE A G E A D
S DE A G E.
Pn both gores on foded
sheet of paper wth on
foded edge.
Trace both gores and add
1/2 seam aowance on both
notched edges.
emove both sectons of
the wor ng soper.
ut out pattern but do not
cut aong fod.
E tend notches to edge of
pattern.
Unpn and open center
bac gore.
Unpn sde bac gore.
Mar 1/2 seam aowance
on eft sde of pattern as
shown.
Pn gores together at seam.
Test on soper and test
on form.
Mav r Pubshnn a
.w nr M
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T E G U D, T E U D A D T E AT E E
The measurements gven beow are appro mate
and may be vared accordng to ndvdua
preference.
T E G U D E E s 1/2 hgher at
the center front than the soper nec ne.
T E U D E E s 1 ower at the
center front than the soper nec ne. T E
AT E E begns at the center of the
shouder ne and drops 1 ower at the
center front than the soper nec ne.
G U D E E: Trace
a soper.
Mar a pont 1/2 above the
nec ne at the .
Draw n an even curve from
the end of the shouder to
ths pont.
U D E E: Trace a
soper.
Mar a pont 1 beow nec -
ne at .
Draw n an even curve from
end of shouder to ths
pont.
-
AT E E: Trace a
oper.
Mar a pont 1 beow
ec ne at .
Mar a pont at center
f shouder.
Draw an even curve be-
ween the two ponts.
5 3 G P8 T 0 G
T E ES
n genera, a facng s made
the sane sze and shape of
the edge t s to fnsh.
acngs vary n wdth but
1 1/2 to 2 1/4 n wdth s
acceptabe. n ths esson,
ony the seamnes were nar ed
at the shouder and nec edge.
f course, n the ma ng of a
fnshed pattern seam aow-
ances woud have to be added
to a edges to be seamed. n
the drawngs shown, the nec
edge and the shouder edges
woud re ure seam aowance.
tf P
D
AT M
A GS
utne the new nec ne, the shouder ne and the
ne of the fnshed pattern on a sheet of paper. Draw
a ne as shown 2 away from the nec ne and foowng
the shape of the nec ne. ndcate fod on . abe
pattern A G.
o test pattern:
ace of pattern to be tested on a foded sheet of
per. Pn n pace and trace pattern. ut out pattern.
pen pattern. hec the pattern to see that the nec -
ne at the s a smooth even curve avod any
endency toward a pont.
uprght 1950 Mayer Pubshng o. 229 est 34 St. Uv or 18, . .
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E ES
G.
E
U E
E
AftT-5 APE E
ote that a the nec nes are ow (about 5 beow the soper nec ne) and
a the shouders e tend sghty .toward the nec edge. The shouders of ow
nec ne garments are rased and e tended sghty at the nec edge to nsure
a snug ft at the nec ne.
T E TE D A D A SE T E
S U DE E.
Trace a soper.
E tend the shouder ne
1/4 at the nec edge.
Mar pont 1/8 above
the end of the e tended ne.
Draw a ne as shown from
to center of shouder.
TE: f a compete pattern
s ade the shouder ne of
the bac shouder must be
e tended and rased n the
same manner.
- E E:
Trace soper.
E tend and rase shouder.
Mar pont 5 down on
ne.
Draw a straght ne from
to .
A E E:
Trace soper.
E tend and rase shouder.
Mar pont 5 down on
ne.
Draw n a curve from to
as shown.
S UA E E E:
Trace soper.
E tend and rase shouder.
Mar pont 5 down on
ne.
Draw a ne from , para-
e to , endng on a eve
wth .
nsh the s uare by draw-
ng a ne to .
Estabsh pont n
desred poston.
Draw n even curves
EA T S APED E E:
There are many varetes
of the sweetheart nec ne.
Pont as shown n the
s etch, determnes the shape
of the nec ne.
The poston of ths pont
ust be determned by the
pattern ma er after studyng
a partcuar s etch.
E
A T/ AP D ME
A GS
utne the nec ne, the shouder ne and the center front of the fnshed pattern
on a new sheet of paper. Draw a ne as shown 2 away from the nec ne, foowng
the shape of the nec ne. ndcate fod of . AUT : Trm off pont of -nec -
ne facng as shown.
29 ert34St. ew or 8, . .
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T E S T E E
EAD G T E S ET
The nec ne s round
and sghty hgher
than the soper nec -
ne. t s st at
the center front to
about 5 beow the
soper nec ne.
AT S T E P EM
The nec ne must be rased and a 1/4 e -
tenson must be added to the center front,
The pattern must be tested n musn.
Trace soper.
Draw a ne from the
wastne to a pont 1/4
beyond the center front
at the nec ne.
Ths new ne becomes
the center front.
TE: The addtona 1/4
necessary to eep st from
spreadng e cessvey.
E tend and rase shouder
as n esson G2, step 2.
Mar pont .
Mar pont E on new center
front ne 5 down from
nec ne.
E tend ne 1/2 up
from nec ne and mar
pont 0.
onnect ponts and 0
wth an even curve to ma e
a sghty hgher nec ne.
ut out wor ng soper.
Trace soper on a foded
sheet of paper wth new
on fod edge.
Mar pont E.
Add seam aowance to nec
edge.
ut out fnshed pattern.
pen pattern. Mar gran ne on ne. otch nec ne
at . Perforate pont E. otch and perforate dart. abe
pattern bodce.
TE A whoe pattern s made when a garment has a st
nec ne n order that the pattern can be perforated at
pont E. Pont E w be mar ed on the coth wth a
taor tac or cha .
.- EA AU A t
T MA E A G: Trace upper
porton of wor ng soper
(usng new nec ne, shouder
and center front as shown n
bo 4) on a foded sheet of
paper wth on fod edge.
Draw n facng as shown.
Mar pont E.
Add seam aowance to
nec edge.
ut out pattern.
pen pattern.
Mar gran ne on ne.
otch nec ne at .
Perforate pont E.
abe pattern A G.
ut patterns out n musn.
th rght sdes together,
pn facng to bodce match-
ng the shouder and nec
edges and the perforatons.
Sttch as shown.
Sash to wthn 1/16 of pont.
Trm seam.
Turn facng nsde and press.
r Pubshng o. 229 est 34 St. ew or 18 .
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T E E E
EAD G T E S ET
The bodce has a soft
drape of matera at
the nec ne whch
fas to about 2
beow the norma
s op er nec ne edge.
AT S T E P EM
E tra funess must be obtaned beow the
nec ne for the cow drape.
Trace a front soper
Mar a pont 3 down on
ne.
Draw a straght ne from
end of shouder to ths pont
as shown.
ut off shaded porton.
ut out soper.
Draw a parae sash ne
1 from straght ne at nec
edge.
abe ths ne M.
Draw a sash ne from
pont of dart to ne M.
Trm off og of dart.
Sash aong sash ne M
to wthn 1/16 of shouder
edge.
Sash aong remanng
sash ne to pont of dart.
ose off and pn 1/2 of
dart.
Pace wor ng soper on
new sheet wth on straght
edge of sheet.
Pn down ower porton.
Move strp upward unt t
s at rght anges to the
straght edge of sheet.
Pn n poston.
ut off e tendng pont.
Trace outsde outne of
wor ng soper.
Mar dart.
emove wor ng soper.
abe fod ne:
To ma e aowance for hem
facng, draw a parae ne
1 from upper edge of pattern.
ut aong ths ne.
n the sght ange
on the shouder ne wth a
curve as shown.
Shorten wast dart 2 .
9 4
10
ose off and pn shortened
wast dart down to edge of
sheet.
rease the hem aowance
down aong fod ne .
ut out pattern.
Pn pattern down on a
foded sheet of paper wth
on fod edge of sheet.
Trace outsde outne.
Add seam aowance to a
but upper edge.
emove wor ng soper and
cut out fnshed pattern.
Trace seamnes, dart nes and fod ne for hem thru
to eft sde of pattern. pen pattern. otch and per-
forate wast dart. Draw n ne and notch at
wastne. otch ends of fod ne.
:opyrght Mayer Pubshmf o. 229 est 34 St ew or S. .
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G
T E E E
Every bodce wth a cow
drape s aways cut on the
bas .
The drape fas n soft
fods ony f the of the
bodce s on the true bas.
A compete pattern s made
n ths case because of the
dffcuty of fodng fabrc
on the bas.
Mar granne so that t ma es a 45 degree
ange wth the ne. TE: f you do
not now how to ma e a 45 degree ange, see
the nstructons n the foowng bo .
S uare a gudene to the thereby ma n
a 90 degree ange. Mar pont on the 5
down from the ntersecton of the nes. Mar
pont A on gudene 5 from ntersecton,
Draw bro en ne A . Mar mdpont of ne A
and draw gudene as shown, thereby bsectn
the 90 degree ange.
14
15
Pn musn to dress form
or to body.
Pn the curved shouder
edge to the straght shouder
ne on the form.
ote that as soon as the
curve s paced on a straght
ne, the fods of the cow
fa nto pace.
To fuy understand the cow nec ne t s necessary to show how
the fabrc ta es shape on the form or on the body. ut out the
bodce front n musn. Pn the darts. od under hem at nec edge.
G
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G.
T E E E
G.
EAD G T E S ET
The bodce buttons at
the front. The front
and nec edge of the
bodce front s shaped
nto revers whch
turn bac over the
bodce. The nec ne
n the bac s about
1/4 hgher than the
soper.
AT S T E P EM The center front
of the bodce must be e tended to aow
for overappng and buttonng the front.
The front edge and nec edge must be
shaped to form the revers. The bac
nec edge of the soper must be rased.
Trace soper on sheet of paper
wth severa nches from
the straght edge of sheet.
E tend and rase the shouder
as n esson G2, step 2. Mar
pont at new shouder end.
Mar pont A 5 down on
ne. Draw fod ne A .
Draw a ne 3/4 from the
and parae to the . Ths
s the e tenson necessary
for overappng and buttonng
the front. E tend the fod
ne to the e tenson ne
ne and mar pont .
od paper bac on fod ne.
Draw n the desred stye
ne, begnnng at pont
and endng at pont . TE:
Any stye ne can be drawn
n. n step 9 a varety of
stye nes are shown.
Ad d seam aowance to a
edges. ut out pattern. otch
and perforate darts. ndcate
fod on . abe pattern
D E A . Ma e a 2 wde
A E A G by tracng
the upper porton of the
fnshed D E A pattern,
(shaded porton n s etch).
pen pattern. Trace stye
nes of rever thru to rght
sde of pattern. Add seam
aowances to a edges. Mar
for buttonhoes as shown.
ut out pattern. abe D E
T. otch ends of fod ne.
Perforate buttonhoe mar s.
otch and perforate wast dart.
otch ower end of ne.
Ma e a T A G by tracng
the front edges. The shaded
area shows shape facng use
the measurements gven.
Trace a bac soper on a sheet
of paper wth on straght
edge of sheet. ase and e -
tend the bac shouder same
as the front. Draw a new nec -
ne curve 1/4 above the
soper nec ne. TE: The
bac nec edge has been rased.
P TED
E E
U DED
E E
Any stye ne for the rever can be drawn n. Two e ampes
are gven, showng the s etch and how to obtan the desred
effect.
opyrght n Mayer Pubshng o. 229 est 3t St. ew or 18, . .
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#
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,
T- S APED E T TU S
EAD G T E S ET
The yo e begns
sghty above the
the mdde of the
armhoe curve and
then, at about 2
from the center front
t drops down to ust
beow the hgh pont
of the bust. The
three tuc s are about
2 ong and 1 apart.
The wast dart s 5
ong AT S T E P EM
A T-shaped yo e must be made. Part of the
bust contro dart must be transferred and
converted nto tuc s at the yo ene.
ut out a front soper.
Mar pont A on armhoe
sghty above mdde of
the curve.
S uare a yo ene from
center front ( ) thru A,
endng 2 n from center
front.
Mar pont .
S uare a 2 ne from
to , about 1 beow eve
of D.
Draw a ne from to .
Draw a gudene 2 beow
yo ene and parae to t.
Mar three ponts on yo e-
ne usng the measurements
gven n the s etch.
Draw tuc nes from these
ponts to gudene, havng
the tuc nes parae to
ne .
Mar for notches on ne
.
ut off yo e.
Mar on yo e.
ut off og of dart.
onnect end of tuc nes
wth 0.
ose off 1/2 of dart
and pn.
Sash aong the three
sash nes to wthn 1/16
of D.
10
11
Pace wor ng soper onnew
sheet wth on straght
edge of sheet.
Spread strps an e ua
dstance apart.
Pn.
Trace outne of wor ng
soper.
Trace the tuc nes as
far down as the gude ne.
Trace remander of dart.
emove wor ng soper.
Shorten dart 2 .
od the tuc s up to the
top of the sheet.
od the wast dart down
to the bottom of the sheet.
ut out pattern.
Trace pattern onnew sheet.
Add seam aowance onyo e-
1 n e edges.
E tend tuc nes to top
of pattern.
ut out pattern.
M.w nr t
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T- S APED E T TU S
otch and perforate tuc s
and wast dart.
ndcate fod on .
abe pattern D E.
Trace around yo e on new
sheet. Add seam aowance
on yo e ne edges.
E tend notches to edges
of pattern.
ut out pattern.
ndcate fod on .
abe pattern E.
Pn n tuc s and wast
dart.
Pn yo e to bodce match-
ng notches.
Test on soper.
Test on form.
opyrght 1950 Mayer Pubshng o. 229 est 36 St. ew o
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PA T A E T GAT E S
,
1 EAD G T E S ET
There s a parta
yo e at each shouder.
t starts about 3
down from the top of
the armhoe curve,
ma es a rght ange
and ends at the nec -
ne edge of the
shouder. The bodce
has gathers at the
yo ene. There are
5 darts at the wast.
AT S T E P EM
A parta yo e must be made. Part of the
bust contro dart must be transferred and
converted nto gathers at the yo ene.
Addtona funess for gathers must be
obtaned.
ut out a front soper.
Mar pont A on armhoe
about 3 down from shouder.
S uare a yo ene from
to A.
Mar pont on ths ne
drecty beow end of shouder.
onnect wth end of
shouder. otch ne as shown.
Mar pont of dart D.
To mt gathers mar for
notches 1 from ends of
yo ene.
Mar granne n yo e
parae to .
ut off yo e.
Draw a sash ne from
center of yo ene to D.
Draw 2 sash nes from
yo ene to wastne as
shown.
ut off og of dart.
- - - - - - . .. .-.. --
ose off 1/2 of bust
contro dart and pn.
Sash aong sash ne from
yo ene to D.
Sash aong remanng sash
nes to wthn 1/16 of
wastne.
Pn wor ng soper on new
sheet wth on straght
edge of sheet.
Spread the sash openngs
unt the curved dstance
between the notches s 1 1/2
tmes-the orgna measure-
ment between notches.
Shorten dart 2 .
10
t
Trace around wor ng
soper, mar ng ony the
upper edge of the strps.
Mar the wast dart.
emove wor ng soper.
Draw n wast dart.
Ma e a contnuous curve
between notches.
Add seam aowance to
yo ene and e tend notches.
ose and pn dart.
ut out, notch and per-
forate pattern.
ndcate fod on .
abe pattern D E.
Trace yo e on new sheet.
emove wor ng soper.
Add seam aowance to
yo ene edges and e tend
notches.
ut out pattern.
Mar granne.
abe pattern E.
rease and pn a seres of
sma peats to smuate
gathers between notches at
yo ene.
Pn yo e to bodce wth
notches matchng.
Test on soper.
Test on form.
w r Pnh h nn
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E T S EET EA T E E A D GAT E S
1 EAD G T E S ET
The desgn has a
sweetheart nec ne.
The yo e curves from
sghty above the
mdde of the armhoe
to about 2 beow
nec ne at center-
front . The gathers
are between the md-
de of the yo e and
the center front.
There are two 4
darts at the wastne, fc
AT S T E P EM
A sweetheart nec ne must be made and a
yo e constructed. The bust contro dart
must be dvded between two wast darts and
gathers at the yo ene. Addtona fu-
ness for gathers must be obtaned.
Trace the outne of the
front soper on sheet of
paper.
Do not cut.
Draw n sweetheart nec ne
as e paned n esson G2.
Mar pont of dart D.
ut out soper usng new
nec ne.
Mar pont A on armhoe
sghty above the mdde
of the curve.
Mar pont on
Draw a curved yo ene
whch conforms to the shape
of the nec ne.
Mar for notches to mt
gathers near mdde of yo e-
ne and about 1/4 from .
ut off yo e and mar .
ose off and pn bust
contro dart.
Draw two 4 dart nes
on each sde of outsde fod
of dart.
onnect these nes wth D.
Draw a sash ne as shown
from yo ene to D.
Drawtwosash nes as shown
from o ene to wastne.
Pace worSng sToper oh
new sheet so that spaces for
wast darts are about 1 .
Sash aong sash nes
and aong dart nes to pont
of dart D.
Spread the yo ene sash
openngs e uay unt the
dstance between the notches
s 1 1/2 tmes the orgna
dstance. Pn.
Trace dart nes up to 4
eve.
Trace ony upper edges of
strps.
Trace remanng outne
of wor ng soper.
1
11

uu
Mar apont mdway between
upper ends of dart nes.
onnect these ponts wth
ower ends of dart nes,
formng competed darts.
Draw an even curve be-
tween notches on yo ene.
Add seam aowance to
yo ene edge and e tend
notches.
ose and pn darts down
to edge of sheet.
ut out pattern.
otch and perforate darts.
ndcate fod on .
Pn yo e on new sheet wth
on straght edge of sheet.
Add seam aowance to
yo ene edge and e tend
notches.
ndcate fod on .
abe pattern E.
rease and pn a seres of
sma peats between notches
at yo ene to smuate
gathers.
Pn n wast darts.
Pn yo e to bodce wth
notches matchng.
Test on soper.
abe pattern D E.
Test on form.
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U D E T S G D E
EAD G T E S ET
Te yo e curves from
the center of the
shouder competey
around the nec .
Gathers (to be
shrred n) end about
2 from the shouder.
The wast dart s 5
ong.
AT S T E P EM
A round yo e must be shaped. Part of the
bust contro dart must be transferred nto
gathers at the yo ene. Addtona fu-
ness for gathers must be obtaned.
ut out a front soper.
Mar pont A at center
of shouder.
rom A draw a yo ene to
, an e ua dstance from
nec edge.
Mar for a notch on yo e-
1ne about 2 from A.
Mar pont of dart D.
ut off yo e.
Mar off on yo e.
Draw a sash ne as
shown from yo ene to D.
Draw another sash ne as
shown from yo ene to
wastne
Sash aong sash ne toD.
Sash aong remanng sash
1ne to wthn 1/16 of
wastne.
ose off and pn 1/2 of
bust contro dart.
Pn wor ng soper on new
sheet wth on straght
edge of sheet.
Spread pattern unt the
curved dstance between the
and the notch s 11/2
the orgna measurement be-
tween the and notch.
Pn.
Trace outer edges of wor ng
soper. Trace remanng haf
of dart. emove wor ng
soper. Shorten dart 2 .
Draw an even curve from notch
to center front as shown.
Add seam aowance to yo ene
edge and e tend notch
a
10
- .
t
Pn dart down to edge of
sheet.
ut out pattern.
otch and perforate dart.
ndcate fod on .
abe pattern D E.
Trace yo e on new sheet.
Add seam aowance to
yo ene edge.
ut out pattern.
E tend notch.
ndcate fod on .
rease and pn a seres of
sma peats at yo ene
edge between and notch to
smuate gathers.
Pn n dart.
Pn yo e to bodce wth
Test on soper.
Test on form.
abe pattern E.
notches matchng.
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S APED E
.

EAD G T E S ET
The nec ne combnes
the s uare and heart
shapes. The pont of
the parta yo e s
ust above the bust.
There are gathers at
the yo ene and at
the wastne.
AT S T E P EM
The nec ne must be shaped and a parta
yo e constructed. The bust contro dart
must be dvded between gathers at the
wastne and the yo ene. Addtona
funess for gathers at the yo ene must
be obtaned.
Trace a front soper.
E tend and rase shouder
as n step 2, esson G2.
Mar at hgh pont of
shouder.
Draw a ne from
parae to and 5 1/2
ong. Mar .
Mar pont A 5 down on
ne.
Draw a sghty curved ne
from to A as shown.
Mar pont of dart D.
ut out the soper usng
the new nec ne.
S uare a bro en ne from
ower end of ne to
armhoe and mar pont
on armhoe.
S uare a 2 bro en ne
from center of ne
and mar pont .
Draw two sghty curved
yo e nes from to and
from to .
Mar for notches on
yo ene 1 from and 1
from .
Mar granne n yo e
parae to ne .
ut aong yo ene from
thru to .
Draw sash nes from 1
each sde of to D.
Draw a sash ne on
each sde of dart from
yo ene to wastne.
Sash aong the four
sash nes.
ose off 1/2 of dart.
Pace wor ng soper on
new sheet.
Spread pat.tern unt the
dstances between and the
notches each sde of are
doube what they were.
8
10
11
Trace outsde outne of
wor ng soper.
emove wor ng soper.
Draw n even curves between
notches and as shown, usng
the bro en ne as a gude.
Add seam aowance to
yo ene edge and e tend
notches.
Mar for notches on wast-
ne on each sde of dart.
Draw a shaow curve be-
tween the notches, graduat-
ng curve to about 1/4
beow wastne.
ut out pattern.
ndcate fod on and
notch wastne.
abe pattern D E.
Trace yo e on new sheet.
Add seam aowance to
yo ene edge and e tend
notches.
Mar granne.
abe pattern E.
rease and pn a seres
of sma peats at yo ene
edge between notches and
between notches on wastne
to smuate gathers.
Pn yo e to bodce wth
notches matchng.
Test on soper.
Test on form.
opyrght 950 Msyer Pubshng o. 229 t 34 St. ew or , . .
G
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S APED E T ST E DA TS

o
EAD G T E S ET
The yo e sants up
and over from the
armhoe for a short
dstance and then
curves sghty down-
ward to the center
front. Three3 stye
darts radate from
the yo e ne. There
are gathers at the
wastne.
AT S T E P EM
A shaped yo e must be constructed. The
bust contro dart must be dvded between
gathers at the wastne and stye darts
at the yo e ne.
ut out a front soper.
Mar a pont on shouder
ne 4 from nec edge.
Draw a curved bro en ne
from ths pont to , an
e ua dstance from nec edge.
Mar pontAon as shown.
Draw a gudene 3 beow
bro en ne.
Mar pont on armhoe.
E tend the dart ne nearest
the sde edge up to the
bro en ne and mar pont .
Mar pont Eon bro en ne
2 to the eft of .
Draw ne E.
Draw n a sod ne aong
bro en ne EA.
Mar pont of dart D.
ne D s the center sash
ne for the stye darts.
Draw a sash ne on each
sde of D , begnnng 1
away at yo ene and endng
1 1/4 away at gudene.
onnect ower ends of
nes wth D.
ut off og of dart.
Mar for notch on ne E.
ut off yo e aong yo ene
EA.
Mar on yo e.
Sash aong sash nes.
ose off and pn 2/3 of
bust contro dart.
Pace wor ng soper on
new sheet.
Spread strps unt spaces
for stye darts are e ua.
Pn.
Trace outsde outne of
wor ng soper.
Mar ower ends of wast
dart.
Trace stye dart nes ony
as far down as gudene.
emove wor ng soper.
8
10
11
Mar center of each stye
dart space on a eve wth
gudene.
onnect these ponts wth
upper ends of dart nes,
formng competed darts.
Prepare wastne for
gathers n usua manner (see
esson D3, o 1 ).
ose off and pn darts up
to edge of sheet.
Draw n an even curve over
darts.
ut out pattern.
Trace pattern for bodce
and yo e on new sheet.
Add seam aowance to
yo ene edges and e tend
notches.
ndcate fod on
nes.
abe pattern D E and
E.
Pn n stye darts.
rease and pn a seres of
sma peats at wastne to
smuate gathers.
Pn yo e to bodce wth
notches matchng.
Test on soper.
Test on form.
opyrght 1950 Mayer Pubshng o. 229 est 34 St. ew or 18, . .
71
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UTT ED T T E E E T
,
1 EAD G T E S ET
The bodce has a
round nec ne e
the soper nec ne.
t buttons down the
front. There s a
sashed seam begn-
nng about 3 down
on the armhoe and
e tendng about 3 1/2
toward the center
front. There are
gathers beow the seam.
AT S T E P EM
The sash must be drawn and funess ob-
taned for the gathers. The center front
must be e tended to aow for overappng
and buttonng the front. A front facng
must be made.
ut out a front soper.
Mar pont A3 down on
armhoe.
S uare a ne from the
to Pont A and draw ne A
3 1/2 ong.
Draw a sash ne from
center of ne A to pont
of dart as shown.
ut off og of dart.
Sash ne A to pont .
Sash remanng sash ne
to pont of dart.
ose off and pn 1/2 of
bust contro dart.
Pn wor ng soper on new
sheet wth about 2 from
straght edge of sheet.
Shorten dart.
Trace a outsde edges
of wor ng soper.
ar pont as shown.
Trace n ne A .
emove wor ng soper.

Draw ru er-straght
ne .
Draw a parae ne 3/4
from .
TE: The space between
nes A and s a the
space avaabe for seam
aowance on the sashed
seam.
ay the cardboard front soper over
the sheet of paper as shown, wth
center nes together and nec ne
and wastne edges meetng.
Trace n nec ne and wastne
edge of soper as far as the 3/4
e tenson ne.
TE: 3/4 s the e tenson for over-
1appng the front.
The buttonhoe
ength s deter-
mned by the
sze of the de-
sred button.
The ength s
cacuated by
addng together
the wdth of
the button and
the depth of
the button. or
e ampe a 3/4
wde button
whch s 1/4
n depth w
re ure a 1
bu t tonho1e,
wh e a 3/4
button that s
1/2 n depth
w re ure a
1 1/4 button-
hoe.
8
Draw n buttonhoe mar s
of the desred ength as
foows: have mar s begn at
ne and e tend toward
the body of the pattern as
shown have top buttonhoe
1/2 from nec edge and
ower buttonhoe 1 1/2 from
wastne space eveny.
Add seam aowance to a
but wastne edge.
AUT : See s etch to see
the way the aowance s
added n the area of the
sashed seam.
ose off and pn wast
dart.
Add seam aowance to
wastne edge.
ut out pattern.
TE: n ma ng a fnshed
pattern seam aowance must
be added to every edge to
be seamed.
11
pen pattern.
otch and perforate wast
dart.
Perforate ends of button-
hoe mar s.
otch ends of ne.
Mar granne parae to
ne.
abe pattern D E T
3D.
Mayer Pubshng o. 229 est 34 St. ew or 18, . .
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,
UTT ED T T E E E T
To ma e a facng: trace
front, nec , shouder and
wastne edge (as far as
the dart) of the fnshed
pattern.
Draw n seam nes and
nes.
Mar granne on .
Draw nner edge of facng
usng the measurements gven
n the s etch.
ut out facng.
abe pattern T A G.
TE: Made n ths manner the
facng w fnsh off the
front and nec edges of the
bodce front.
be
as
The sashed seam must
prepared for testng
foows:
Sash from the cut edge at
armhoe to the pont.
Pn n a seres of peats
on the ower edge of the
seam unt the two edges are
even. Pn aong seamne.
opyrght fS0 Mayer Pubshng o. 229 est St. ew or S, . .
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T DU T T S T S PE S
The basc s rt or soper fts the contours of the body from the
wastne down to the hpne. eow the hpne, the s rt hangs free from
the body. t must be wde enough at the ower edge for the wearer to wa
comfortaby. The tota wdth at the ower edge s caed sweep and the sweep
of a basc s rt s appro matey 48 because ths s a mnmum for comfortabe
wa ng. The entre s rt must have suffcent ease and wdth for freedom of
acton as we as for comfortabe sttng.
n addton, a propery ftted s rt serves to enhance the fgure of
the wearer. t can be ftted to concea such fgure fauts as protrudng
abdomen or heavy thghs, - or to emphasze the most attractve nes of
the fgure .
n fttng the body, the s rt must ft the sma wast and the
arger hpne. Some of ths fttng s done at the sde seams and some s
done by the use of darts. A dart fttng n the bac basc s rt s re ured
to ta e care of the buge of the. hps.
The front basc s rt can be made wth or wthout a dart. A dart
fttng n front s advantageous because a sma dart n front w create
enough buge for the abdomen and for the hpbone. Aso a sma dart n front
hods the crosswse gran n an dea poston. or these reasons, the front
basc s rt, as made n esson , w have a dart.
n the ma ng of some patterns, t s better to have a basc s rt
wthout a dart. The darted front s rt can be converted nto a dartess basc
pattern ute easy. n esson 3 Suppement, ths procedure s e paned.
A basc s rt can be worn as a garment f a smpe, straght ne
s rt s desred. t s used chefy as a basc pattern to ma e other and more
compcated s rt patterns.
opyrght 1950 Myer Pubshng o. 221 t 36 St. ew or , . .
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D AP G T E T S T
AT S T E P EM
Musn must be ftted
over the front of
the dress form. A
dart w be used to
ad ust the dfference
between the hpne
and the narrower
wast.
TE: Ths dart s used or retaned as
ease n most better-made garments. Manu-
facturers of ess e pensve garments usuay
do not use the dart or ease. Two front
sopers w be made n a ater esson:
one w have the dart, the other w be
dartess.
To drape the front use a
pece of musn at east 13
by 14 for sze 12.
Use the sevedge for the
14 edge.
TE: A medum-weght musn
or ts e uvaent s best
to use.
Pn the sevedge or a
foded straght edge aong
the seam, havng the
upper edge about 2 above
the wastne.
Space pns 1 1/2 apart.
Smooth the musn (on the
crosswse gran) straght
across the hpne to the
sde seam and pn n
poston as shown.
TE: The crosswse gran at
the hpne eve shoud be
parae to the foor.
Smooth the musn up aong
the center front and aong
the wastne for about 4 .
Pace a pn on wastne
the same dstance from center
ne as the front bodce dart.
Sash musn amost to
wastne to ma e t e fat.
Mar a pont tfT s 5
beow the wastne pn and
1/4 further away from the
center front than the wast-
ne pn.
Draw a straght ne from
the wastne pn down to
ths pont.
TE: Ths ocates the
poston of the front dart.
Smooth the musn from
the hpne upward and across
the sde seam unt t es
fat on the sde seam,
eavng a sght rppe of
musn between the sde
seamne and wastne pn.
Set a row of pns 1/2
beyond the sde seamne
between the hpne and the
wastnc.
Smooth the mus1 n from the
sde seam upward and aong
the wastne unt t es
smooth on the wastne
sash musn to ma e t e
fat.
TE A sma fod of fabrc
(appro matey 1/4 foded)
w be formed at the pn.
Pn aong the wastne.
10
11
Pn the fod nto a dart
(usng the penc ne as
one sde of the dart), whch
tapers to a pont at the end
of the penc ne.
Smooth the musn downward
aong the remanng sde seam
and pn n pace 1/2 beyond
M Sfaavme the musn
oose enough beow the hp-
ne to pnch out appro -
matey an e cess 1/4 fod
of fabrc
E amne the musn drape.
The wast dart measures
appro matey 1/4 foded.
There must be no stranng
or dstorton of coth.
The musn s now ready to
be mar ed.
opyrght 1S0 Mayer Pubshng o. 2 t est 34 St. ew or 18, . .
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D AP G T E T S T
Trace the sde seam of the
dress form.
Draw the remanng unmar ed
sde of the dart on the ne
of pns.
Mar the wastne aong
the ower edge of the tape,
havng the wast dart e tended.
13
Mar for a notch on sde
seamne 7 beow wastne.
Trm off e cess musn
to wthn 1 1/2 of the
mar ed outne on wastne
and sde edges.
emove pns from sde seam.
od over the 1 1/2 of
musn e acty on the sde
seam.
Pn n pace carefuy.
opyrght 1950 Mayer Pubshng, o. 2M t 34 St. ew or 18. .
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D AP G T E A S T
AT S T E P EM
Musn must be ftted
over the bac of the
dress form. The form
buges at the hpne
(ocated about 7
beow the wastne)
and s wdest ust
beow the hpne.
t s narrowest at
the wastne. A
dart s needed to
ft the taperng off
n wdth from the
hpne to the wast-
ne.
ut a pece of musn at
east 13 by 14 for sze 12.
Pn a straght engthwse
edge (sevedge f possbe)
to the seam of the mode
form, havng the upper edge
about 2 above the wastne.
Space pns 1 1/2 apart.
Smooth the musn (on the
crosswse gran) straght
across the hpne to the
sde seam and pn n
poston.
ote that the musn must
be fted up to ths
poston.
Smooth the musTTn upwar
from the center bac and
aong the wastne for
about 4 .
Sash musn amost to
wastne to ma e t e fat.
Pace a pn on the wast-
ne the same dstance from
center bac as the bac wast
dart (see esson A3, bo 6).
.
Sash musn amost to
wastne to ma e t e fat.
Mar a pont that s 7 be-
ow the wastne pn and
3/4 farther from the center
bac ne.
7
uTe a straght ne bT-
tween the wastne pn and
the 7 pont.
AUT : The musn shoud
be smooth between the and
the tape measure.
Draw a straght ne from
the 3 pn to the pont,
usng the tape measure as
a gude.
Mar a pont on the wast-
ne 11/2 beyond the wast-
ne pn and brng ths
pont to the pn, ma ng a
3/4 fod.
Pn n a dart, (usng the
penc ne as one sde of
the dart), whch tapers to a
pont at the end of the ne.
10
Smooth the musn as shown
by the arrows, from the end
of the dart upward across
the sde seam unt t es
fat on the wastne and on
the sde seam as far down as
the hpne.
Sash musn amost to
wastne to ma e t e fat.
n aong wastne.
-
.
Smooth the musn aong the
sde seam from the hpne
downward and set a row of
pns 1/2 beyond the seam.
AUT : ave the musn
oose enough beow the hp-
ne to pnch out appro -
matey an e cess 1/4 fod
of fabrc.
11
E amne the musn drape.
The wast dart measures
3/4 foded.
There must be no stranng
or dstorton of coth.
The musn s now ready to
be mar ed.
trace the sde seam of
the dress form.
th the wast dart
e tended out from the form,
draw the remanng unmar ed
sde of the dart aong the
row of pns.
Mar the wastne aong
the ower edge of the tape.
Mayer Pubshng o. 229 est 34 St. ew or 18, . .
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D AP G T E A S T
12 -
Trm off e cess musn to
wthn 1/2 of the mar ed
outne on the wastne and
sde edges.
Mar for a notch on sde
seamne 7 down from the
wastne.
13
emove pns from sde seam.
od over the 1 1/2 of
musn e acty on the sde
seamne.
Pn n pace carefuy.
hec the front and bac
musn drapes.
The foded edges of the
front must accuratey meet
the foded edges of the
bac . otches must meet.
The wastne of front and
bac must meet perfecty.
opyrfh 0 Mayer Pubshng o. 229 est 3 St. ew or 18. .
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E T G T E S T D APE T A S T S PE
3
AT S T E P EM The front and bac musn drapes are
now ready to be made nto the paper foundaton pattern or
soper (see drawngs of fnshed front and bac soper).
There w be two types of front sopers made: the frst,
wth a wast dart as t was draped n esson and the
second (n a suppement foowng ths esson) wthout a
dart. TE: Many manufacturers prefer the dartess front
soper because of ts savng n sewng costs.
emove pns and ta e musns from the dress form. th a
ruer straghten the dart nes. Add 1/8 ease to wast-
ne and 1/4 ease at hpne by drawng n a new sde
seamne as shown.
Do ths to both the ront and the bac .
s

fa

1

Pn a arge sheet of transparent paper
over the front musn wth the straght
edge of the sheet on the center ne
of the musn. Trace the seamnes,
tracng the new sde seamne down as
far as the notch. Trace the dart. Mar
a pont on straght edge of sheet
for the desred ength of the s rt.
abe ths pont D. emove musn.
S uare a bro en ne from the center
ne to the notch. abe ne A as
shown. Draw a bro en ne, parae
to the , begnnng at pont and
endng at pont on a eve wth
pont D. Draw bro en ne D e tendng
t 2 1/2 mar end of ne E.
Draw ne E.
Trace the bac musn same as the
front musn was traced n step 3,
but do not mar off center ength.
Mar off ength AD e ua to ength AD
n step 3. Draw rectange A D same
as nstep 3. Add the 2 1/2 e tenson
and draw ne E. TE: The ength
shoud measure about 1/2 onger than
the ength.
o. 229 est34St. ew or 18, . .
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E T G T E S T D APE T A S T S PE

ay the bac pattern over the front and pn the seam-
nes together above the notches. od the paper up to
the ght and note that the sde seamnes above the notch
are not dentca. onstruct a new curve e acty down the
center of the space between the two nes. ut patterns
aong corrected curve from wastne to the notch and
contnue cuttng patterns aong sde seamnes to ower
edge. emove pns.
TE: The hp curves are matched n order to ma e sewng
easer there s practcay no sacrfce of ft.
Pace the patterns wth hpne notches and ower ends of
sdes matchng e acty. The sdeseam engths of front and
bac shoud be of the same ength and w match e acty
f drectons have been foowed correcty. Mar a pont
about 1/4 above ower end of sdeseam. Draw a smoothy
rounded curve thru ths pont to form the hemne of the
s rt soper, as shown f necessary to form an even curve,
rase the curve sghty hgher than the 1/4 pont, but
not more than 1/4 hgher.
od and pn the front wast dart up
to the edge of the sheet. ut out
front pattern aong wastne edge
and ower edge. od and pn bac dart
and cut out bac pattern n same manner.
hec to see that the p acement and
the measurements of the darts and
notches are the same as gven n
essons and 2. ow chec the
wastne edges of the s rt patterns
to see that they measure e acty the
same as the correspondng wastne
edges of the bodce sopers. Ma e
whatever sma correctons are necessary
on the s rt patterns. Do not cut out
patterns.
10
Pn center nes of pattern to corres-
pond ng center nes of form. Pn patterr
at wastne and aong sde edges. or-
rect seamnes of the patterns (se
esson A4, step 12) f they do not mate
the sdeseams and wastne e acty
After the patterns have been perfected
ma e them up n heavy paper as the per
manent bodce sopers were made
esson A4, step 12.
opyrght US0 Mayer Pubshng o. 229 est 34 St. ew or
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AD UST G T E S T S PE MASS P DU T
EAD G T E S ET - The s rt
opers shown here are smar
o those whch were made n 3,
ut wthout a front dart.
TE: Ths esson s gven for
ar ments n whch a front s rt
art s not desred. t s poss-
)e when wor ng wth wooens, to
ase-n the of the dart nto
he wastband or bodce f ths
rocedure s foowed, do not
:arry out steps 2. 3, and 4 of
hs esson, bt merey wrte at
rastne EASE- , and trm
)ff og of dart. t s mprac-
ca to ease-n over heavy
)eats, or n fabrc whch does
ot ve or stretch.
( AT S T E P EM The front
art must be emnated wthout
changng the outsde dmensons
sf the s rt. The wastne curve
mst reman unchanged. The curve
Df the hemne may be atered
sghty wthout apprecaby
sffectng the ft of the s rt
The sde seamnes of front and
mc must be made wth dentca
:urves to be ready adaptabe
bo hgh speed sttchng, and to
emnate the need for bastng.
TE: or a sghty better ft,
f the dart may be retaned as
ase and ony haf the dart
mnated. Ths s accompshed
ay fodng out ony haf the
art n step 4, nstead of fod-
ng out the entre dart the re-
nanng haf s eased-n, and
the pattern mar ed EASE- 54
he og s then trmmed off.
Trace and cut out a front soper.
Draw a sash ne from the pont o
the dart to the notch at hpne.
Sash aong the sash ne from note
to pont of dart.
T
ff ,
od am pn the wast dart. f de-
sred, fod out ony part of the wast
dart and retan the remander as ease.
Measure the wdth of sash openng at
the notch and mar off ths wdth at
the ower end of the sde. rom ths
pont s uare a short ne and curve
t graduay nto the orgna hemne
at about 2 from the center front f
the curve s not even, the may be
shortened 1/4
. .-....-. .-
Pn wor ng soper wth on straght
edge of a new sheet of paper. Trace
the wor ng soper and penc n the
gap at the sash openng. Mar a
notch at upper edge of sash openng.
TE: The dmensons of the s rt re-
man unchanged athough the dart was
emnated (or partay emnated).
emove the wor ng soper. Pace the
new front dartess soper over the
bac soper whch was made n 3.
Match the upper and ower ends of the
sdeseams n the manner shown.
TE: The curvature of the front s
deeper than the curvature of the bac .
opyrght 0 Mayer Pubshng o. 229 est 34 St. ew or 18.
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AD UST G T E S T S PE MASS P DU T
r
E
E
Pn the sopers together n ths poston wth the wast-
ne ends matchng. f the ower ends do not meet e acty,
choose a new ower end pont mdway between the other two
ends. Draw a new curved ne between wast and hp notch
eve. rom hp notch eve, rue a new ne down to the
ower end. E tend hp notch to the new mdde ne. Use
ths new ne as the new sde seamne of both front and
bac patterns. Ma e the necessary changes by aterng one
pattern and recuttng the other.
TE: Ths does not effect the tota sze of both patterns,
but merey moves the sde seamne sghty.
Pn the front and bac sopers over the dress form and
chec for ft n the usua manner. Ma e any correctons
necessary by trmmng off or pastng on paper where re-
ured. Transfer the tssue paper patterns to heavy card-
board or other heavyweght paper as they w be used
repeatedy.
opyrght 1950 Mayer Pubshng o. 229 est 34 St ew or ,

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AD UST G T E S T D APE T T T E D DUA
AT S T E P EM A S T S PE MA E D APED E
T E D DUA T E SAME MA E AS ESS . (D AP G
T E S T T E D ESS M), US G E S DE T E
GU E. A TE T S P EDU E AS EE ED T E
UMA M. T ST E AD SA E T MA E UP A U
S T PATTE A TT G A D AD UST G.
Trace the front and bac s rt sopers on a sheet of
ghtweght paper or tssue, but do not trace n the darts.
Trace ony about 15 down from the wastne.
Add a 1 seam aowance to the sde and wastne edges
do not add seam aowance to or edges. ut out the
paper patterns wth these added aowances.
UT
Pn the bac soper on a foded pece of musn wth the
on the foded edge. Pn the front on a foded pece of
musn wth the 1 away from the foded edge. ut out
the musn sopers.
Trace n the wastne and sde seamnes of both sopers.
n the front soper, cut aong the fod edge to separate
the two sectons of the front.
TE: The wast darts of the front and bac shoud not
be traced n because the ft of the garment depends on
the sze, ength and pacement of these darts. Therefore
they are made n whatever way s necessary to ft the
ndvdua.
Pn the front to the bac at the sde edges, pacng
e pns aong the traced n seamnes.
Draw n the center bac ne.
AUT : The person to be ftted shoud wear her usua
foundaton garments.
Put the musn on the ndvdua and pn the center
front edges together n a 1 seam. f t s necessary to
et out the sde seams to ma e the musn arge enough,
ad ust the pns at the sde edges as necessary.
apyrght 1950 Mayer Pubshng o. 229 est 34 St. ew or 18, .
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AD UST G T E S T D APE T T T E D DUA
TE: efore dong step 5. read
thru step 6 aso because opera-
tons done nsstep 6 may cause
changes n what was done n step 5.
Actuay steps 5 and 6 are not
ndependent steps. Average sze
12 measurements are gven, others
vary accordng to sze.
As n esson , the front darts
shoud be ned up wth the bodce
darts at the wastne. The darts
are about 5 ong and shoud
sant away from the center front
sghty, as shown n the s etch.
They w vary n wdth from 3/8
(3/16 foded) for the fgure
wth a fat abdomen, to 3/4 (3/8
foded) for the fgure wth a
protrudng abdomen. Pn n the
front darts.
As n esson 31, the bac darts
shoud be ned up wth the bodce
darts at the wastne. They shoud
be about 7 ong (to reach the
fu part of the hp) and shoud
sant away from the center bac
sghty, as shown n the s etch.
The bac dart w be appro -
matey 1 1/2 wde (3/4 foded).
Pn n the bac darts.
As the darts are beng pnned,
chec the sde seamnes to see
that they fa downward n a
straght ne. f the front darts
are pnned too arge, the sde
seam w pu toward the front.
A bac dart, pnned too arge,
w pu theseam toward the bac .
The musn s the correct sze for the
ndvdua f appro matey 2 of fabrc
can be pnched nto a fod at the hp eve.
The s etch shows 1 ease (1/2 fod) on
each sde. The amount of ease can vary wth
ndvdua taste.
The wastne shoud be ftted snugy.
Ad ust the sde seam by pnnng the sean
deeper or shaower unt the desred ft
s acheved.
arefuy chec the ft of the musn.
The musn shoud ft smoothy and as cose
to the body as possbe yet st gve the
necessary ease for movement of the body.
The ndvdua shoud test the s rt sttng
as we as standng.
Pace a tape measure around
the wast and ad ust t to
the correct wastne pos-
ton. The pacement of the
tape measure can be ad usted
somewhat to ndvdua taste.
th a penc, mar around
the ower edge of the tape
over the rght haf of the
front and the rght haf of
fsc
nd then
E TE
A
U E
Unpn center front edges
and remove musn. ut the
musn straght down the
center bac ne. Use ony
the rght haf of the musn.
Trace n the wastne and
the sde seamnes of the
front and bac aong the ne
of the pns. Mar for a notch
on sde seamne 7 down from
wastne. Trace n both sdes
of the wast dart.
emove pns.
ue n the sdes of the wast darts.
Ma e a smooth ne aong the wastne. Do not draw
n wastne across tops of darts as a og must be
made by fodng frst.
10
ToT / .unvert the musns nto a soper. foow esson
3 wth one e cepton: step 2 shoud be omtted. n
ep 2 of that esson, e tra ease was gven at the
S1 6 6 6S,
Ths step s not necessary when drapng musn on
an ndvdua because when the fttng was done, t
was done oosey enough for the comfort of the ndvdua
opyrght 1950 May
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T E U G E S T
vew
EAD G T E S ET - There are center
ront and bac seams. There are wast
arts n the bac ony. The s rt s
sghty fared. AT S T E P EM
The dart oust be emnated from the
front soper. Addtona fare must be
obtaned at the center front and bac
eams. The desred granne must be es-
tabshed. em aowance must be added to
the ower edge and seam aowance must be
added to a other edges. A wastband
must be made.
5 r
Trace a dartess front soper (see
4). ar pont at upper end of
ne. E tend the ower edge 3/4 be-
yond and mar pont . Draw
straght ne . TE: The addtona
3/4 at the ower edge gves a sght
fare to the s rt.
Estabsh the granne by drawng
a ne down the center of the gore,
e tendng t downward from the hp-
ne. TE: f a more bas effect at
s desred, the granne shoud
be drawn parae to the sde seamne.
d 1/2 seam aowance to sde, front and wastne edges. Mar for notches
on front edge. E tend notch at sde of pattern. Add 2 hem aowance at ower
edge. ut out pattern. abe pattern S T T. TE: EM A A E s the
e tra fabrc aowed for turnng under and fnshng the ower edge of a s rt,
seeve, etc. The amount of aowance vares wth the effect desred.
Ma e the bac pattern n the same
way but do not emnate the dart.
TE: Three notches are shown on the
seam n order to dstngush t
from the seam.
:opyr ht 1950 Mayer Pubshng o. 229 est 34 St. ew or 18, . .
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T E U G E S T
E TE A S DE SEAM E TE T
fST
MtfSU E ME T
T A ST
MEASU EME T
Draw a 2 strp the fu fgure wast measurement ess 1/4 n ength.
Mar off the front wast measurement ess 1/8 on the rght end of the
strp as shown and mar for a notch that w meet the sde seam of the
s rt. Mar for a notch at and as shown. TE: A wastband s made
sghty smaer than the soper measurement to nsure suffcent grp
to hod the s rt up. The sghty onger s rt s reay eased nto the
shorter wastband when beng sewn.
SPE A TE A S T PATTE S: hen
a pattern s fnshed the parts shoud
aways be pnned together (wth darts,
peats, gathers, etc. pnned n) and then
tested on the soper and tested on the
mode form. Ths must be done whether a
bodce, a s rt, or the pattern for a com-
pete garment s beng made.
E. TE A
S DE 5EA 1
E TE T
,
1 1
S a
E
A ST A D
1
1
U DE AP
. _
Add a 2 aowance for an underap at bac edge. Add 1/2 seam aowance
to a edges. Draw n the granne parae to ong edges as shown.
E tend notch mar s to edge of pattern and cut out pattern. abe pattern
A ST A D.
TE: nshed wdth s 1 because the wastband s foded over doube
durng the sewng process.
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T E S G E S T
EAD G T E S ET - The s rt has s
ores and s sghty more fared than
the four gore s rt. AT S T E P -
EM The gores must be formed and ad-
dtona fare must be obtaned at a
seams. em aowance must be added to
ower edge and seam aowance must be
added to a seamnes. A wastband must
be made.
ut out a darted front soper. Mar
pont on ower edge 4 1/2 from .
Draw a straght ne from pont of
dart to . Mar for two notches as
shown. Draw granne n center of
sde secton. ut out dart and cut
aong ne to .
TE: A dartess soper may be used
f desred.
Pn wor ng soper on new sheet
wth on straght edge of sheet.
E tend ower edges 1 1/2 beyond
each seamne as shown. Draw straght
nes from end of e tended nes to
notches. Trace remanng porton of
wor ng soper and remove wor ng
soper.
TE: The sdeseam fare s optona.
Add a 2 hem aowance to ower edge. Add seam aow-
ance to a remanng edges. ndcate fod on . E tend
notches to edges of patterns. ut out patterns. abe
patterns S T T and S T S DE T.
Ma e the S T A and S T S DE A n same manner.
ote that the drawng shows three notches on the sde
bac seam n contrast to the two used on the sde front
seam. t s advsabe to use adfferent number of notches
on any seam that are smar to assure the correct
matchng of seams. Ma e the wastband the same as n
steps 6 and 7 of esson .
opyrght 1950 Mayer Pubshng o. 229 est 34 St. ew or 18, . .
8
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T GAT E S A D S APED A ST A D
EAD G T E S ET - There are about 7
f gathers e tendng across the center
f the s rt front. The s rt s both
ared and gathered. There s a shaped
astband. AT S T E P EM The
pper edge of the s rt must be shaped
snd funess for gathers must be ob-
taned. Aowance for fare must be
sdded The shaped wastband must be
sade.
Trace a dart ess front soper, (see
4) Mar ponts and as shown.
Draw a curve from to udge the
shape of the curve by studyng the
s etch. To Unt gathers, mar for a
notch about 2 1/2 from the on
the curved ne.
ut aong curved ne. Mar on
sma porton and save ths porton
for t must be added to the wastband.
Draw 3 sash nes between pont
and parae to . umber the
strps. S uare a gudene from the
across the soper. Sash aong
sash nes.
Pn the o. 1 strp on a sheet of
paper. E tend the gudene across
the sheet for about 2 . Pace the
o. 2strp downsothat t s parae
and 1 away from the o. 1 strp,
wth gudenes matchng. Pace a pn
at the upper edge and pvot the strp
unt t s 1 1/2 from the o. 1
strp at the ower edge. Pn.
E tend the gudene of the o. 2
strp for a few nches. Pace the
o. 3 strpdown so that t s parae
to the o. 2 strp and 1 away from
t and so that the gudenes match.
Pvot and pn the strp n the same
manner.
E tend the gudene of the o. 3
strp and pace the remanng arge
secton down n the same manner. Pvot
and pn ths secton down n the same
manner.
:opyrc ht 9S0 Mayer Pubshng o. 229 est 34 St. ew or 18. . .
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T GAT E S A D S APED A ST A D
Trace the outsde outne of the
wor ng soper. Draw n even curves
at upper and ower edges as shown.
ndcate fod on . Add a 2 hem
aowance to the ower edge. Add seam
aowance to a remanng edges.
E tend notches. ut out pattern and
abe t S T T.
To ma e the front wastband: Draw a
1 strp the front soper wast
measurement ess 1/8 n ength. abe
on rght end of strp. E tend
ne downward for a few nches. Pn
the pece of s rt (cut off n step 3)
to the ower edge wth nes
matchng and wth the pont ust
touchng the wastband. Trace edges
of the s rt pece. E tend the upper
edge 1/8 beyond the eft end and
mar pont . Draw a ne from to
ower edge of strp.
Add seam aowance to a edges
e ceptng . ndcate fod on
ne. ut out pattern and abe
T A ST A D.
10 U
Ut

U DE AP
To ma e a bac wastband: Draw a
1 strp the bac body wast measure-
ment ess 1/4 n ength. Mar for a
notch at . Add a 1 e tenson on
the eft and for an underao. E tend
the upper edge 1/8 beyond the rght
end and mar pont . Draw a ne
from to ower edge of strp.
U

T
A A ST A D
Add seam aowance to a edges.
ndcate granne parae to .
ut out pattern and abe A
A ST A D. TE: f a compete
pattern s desred, ether of the
s rt bac patterns made n esson
or 2 coud be used.
TE: The 1/8 e tenson added to the upper sde edges of the wastband sectons s ncuded because
the body becomes arger 1 above the wast. owever, ths e tenson s not absoutey necessary be-
cause the body measurement does not ncrease a great dea. Therefore, for ower prced garments, the
e tenson s not used.
opyrght 1950 Mayer Pubshng o. 229 est 1 St. ew or S, . .
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GAT E ED E TE PA E
-
EAD G T E S ET - The center pane s
shaped to a pont about 1 1/2 beow the
astne. The entre pane s gathered.
he s rt s sghty fared. AT S
nff P EM The dart must be emnated
from the front soper. The center pane
mst be shaped and funess must be ob-
taned for gathers. A wastband and a
s rt bac must be made.
( ut out a dartess front soper.
Mar a pont on the wastne 2 1/2
from center front. Mar pont
3 1/2 from on ower edge. Draw a
straght ne between these two
ponts. Mar pont on ths ne
4 down from wastne. Mar pont
1 1/2 down on ne. Draw n
curved ne .
Mar for notches on ne . Draw
three e uay spaced sash nes n
center secton, parae to . S uare
a gudene from across the center
secton. ut aong ne and .
E
umber strps n center secton
as shown. ut aong sash nes.
Pn strp o. 1 to new sheet wth
on straght edge of sheet. E tend
gudene across sheet. Pace re-
manng strps down wth the gude
nes matchng, and eavng a 1
parae space between the strps.
Pn. Trace outsde outne of wor ng
soper. emove wor ng soper.
onstruct an even curve at upper
edge as shown. Draw a straght ne
at ower edge. Add seam aowance at
notched edge and upper edge and add
a 2 hem aowance at ower edge.
E tend notches. ndcate fod on .
abe pattern T PA E . u
out pattern.
aht 9S0 Mayer Pubhna o. 229 est 3 St. ew or 8. . .
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GAT E ED E TE PA E
Pn sde secton on sheet of paper
wth on straght edge of sheet.
Trace remanng edges of wor ng
soper and remove wor ng soper.
Add a2 hem aowance at ower edge
and add seam aowance to a reman-
ng edges. E tend notches to edge of
pattern. ndcate fod on . abe
pattern S T S DE T. ut out
pattern.
E TE A
A
w 5 A E
SDE SEAM
E TE T ,
f
1
1
. A ST A D
U DE AP
- 1:
Ma e wastband same as n steps 6 and 7. esson . TE: f a compete
pattern s desred, ether of the s rt bac patterns made n esson
or 2 coud be used wth the s rt front and wastband.
opyrght f S0 Mayer Pubshng o 229 est 34 St. ew or 18,
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S DE P EATS
EAD G T E S ET - There are two sde
peats on each sde of the center front
seam about 1 1/2 apart at the upper
edge and about 2 apart at the ower
edge. The two sde peats nearest the
center front form a bo peat. The s rt
s sghty fared. AT S T E P -
EM E tra wdth must be obtaned for
the peats. The dart must be emnated
from the soper. Sean aowance and hen
aowance must be made.
Use a pece of paper about 25 wde
and about 4 onger than the s rt
front soper. Draw a ne 1/2 from
one ong edge and mar ths ne
as shown. Mar ponts as shown usng
the measurements gven. Draw nes
A , D. E and G . TE: The shaded
portons become the peats.
rease aong ne A and brng the
crease to ne D. Pn. rease aong
ne E and brng crease to ne G .
TE: Two peats have been formed.
otce that they are narrower at the
upper edge than at the ower edge
because a greater wdth at the wast
and hpne woud create undesrabe
bu ness.
Pace a dartess front soper over
the peated paper as shown, wth
of soper on ne of paper (1/2
from edge) and trace the soper. t
s best to pn the soper so that t
cannot shft whe beng traced.
Add seam aowance to wastne
and sde edges and add a 2 hem
aowance to the ower edge. ut
out pattern.
pen pattern. Draw n a contnuous
curve at ower edge and at hemne.
otch at upper and ower end of each
peat ne. Ma e a perforaton on each
ne 7 from upper edge to mt top-
sttchng. TE: The notches and per-
foratons are necessary so that the
emove soper.
peats can be mar ed on coth.
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S DE P EATS
Ma e two notches on front edge.
E tend notch mar on sde edge and
cut notch. Mar granne parae
to . abe pattern S T T.
E TE A
S DE SEAM
E TE T
t

A U E

1 1
1
. A ST A D
u DtD Ap

Ma e wastband same as n steps 6 and 7, esson . TE: f a compete pat-

tern s desred, ether of the s rt bac patterns made n esson or 2
coud be used wth ths s rt front and wastband.
opyrght fS0 Mayer Pubshng o. 229 est 34 St. ew or 18.
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E TED P EATS
EAD G T E S ET - There s an nvert-
ed bo peat on each sde of the center
front about 2 1/2 from center front at
upper edge and about 4 from center front
at ower edge. AT S T E P EM
E tra wdth must be obtaned for the
peats. The dart must be emnated from
the soper. Two methods to ma e the pat-
tern w be used: n Method the s rt
front w be made n one pece. n
Method a peat underay w be used
so that the s rt front w be made n
three peces. TE: hen the s rt s
cut n one pece t may not ft on a
wdths of fabrc, and there s a greater
waste of fabrc. owever, the three-
pece front re ures more sewng tme.
MET D
Use a pece of paper about 25 wde
and about 4 onger than the s rt
soper. Mar on one straght edge
as shown. Mar ponts as shown usng
the measurements gven n the s etch.
Draw nes A , D and E . TE: The
shaded porton becomes the peat.
rease aong ne A and brng
crease to ne D. Pn. rease aong
ne E and brng crease to ne D.
Pn. TE: An nverted bo peat
has been formed. TE: An nverted bo
peat s a bo peat n reverse be-
cause the funess s turned nsde.
Pace a dart ess front soper over
the peated paper as shown, wth the
of soper onthe edge of sheet.
Trace the soper carefuy (t s
best to pn the soper so that t
cannot shft.) emove the soper.
Add seam aowance to wastne and
sde edges and add a 2 hem aowance
at ower edge. E tend notch to edge
of pattern. ut out pattern.
emove pns and open pattern. Draw
n a contnuous curve at ower edge.
Draw seamne at wastne. otch at
upper and ower end of each ne.
Ma e a perforaton on each ne T
from upper edge. TE: The peat w
be sttched down to ths pont.
opyrght 1950 Mayer Pubshna o. 22 est 34 St. ew or 18. . .
G
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#
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E TED P EATS
-
ndcate fod on . abe pattern
S T T.
8
Ma e wastband same as n steps 6
and 7, esson . TE: f a compete
pattern s desred, ether of the
s rt bac patterns made n esson
or 2 coud be used wth ths s rt
front and wastband.
MET D
epeat steps 2, 3 and 4. ut out
pattern.
11
pen pattern. Draw granne near
sde edge, parae to P. ote that
there are four creases n the pattern.
Draw a bro en ne aong the unmar ed
creases as shown. Mar for notches on
the two bro en nes. ut aong bro en
nes.
Pn the three sectons of the wor ng soper on a new sheet wth on straght
edge of sheet eavng about 2 of space between each secton. Add a 2 hem
aowance to ower edges and add seam aowance to a other edges. E tend
peat nes to upper and ower edges of pattern. E tend notch mar s to edge of
pattern. emove wor ng soper.
opyrght 950 Mayer Pvbshng o. 229 est 34 St. ew or 16
G
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E TED P EATS
ut out pattern. Draw n the peat nes. otch at
upper and ower end of each ne. Ma e a perforaton on
each ne 7 from upper edge.
15
5 T

ndcate fod on . abe patterns S T T, P EAT
U DE A and S T S DE T. abe granne on center
ne of peat underay.
pyraht S
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P EAT
.EAD G T E S ET - The s rt has a
:enter front seam and no wast dart,
here s a c peat begnnng about
.2 above the ower edge. AT S T E
EM An e tenson must be added for
he c peat. A peat underay must be
ade.
Trace a dartess front soper,
eavng severa nches of space be-
tween the and the straght edge
of the sheet. Mar pont on
ne 12 up from ower edge. S uare a
2 ne from begnnng 1- above
pont , and mar pont . E tend
ower edge 2 beyond and mar
pont . Draw ne .
Add a 2 hem aowance to ower
edge and add seam aowance to a
remanng edges. Draw a granne
parae to . E tend ne to
ower edge. Mar for notches on
seam. E tend notch at sde edge.
ut out pattern.

9,
P EAT
U DE A
otch at ower end of ne.
Perforate pont . otch 3 down on
ong edge of e tenson. abe
pattern S T T. TE: The per-
foraton at pont s used to mar
the end of the sttchng for the
P seam.
To ma e the peat underay: draw
a rectange 4 by 13 . Add a 2
hem aowance to one end and add seam
aowance to a remanng edges.
Draw a granne parae to ong
edges as shown. ut out the pattern.
otch 3 down on each ong edge of
underay. abe pattern P EAT U DE -
A . Ma e the wastband n the usua
manner. The s rt bac made n esson
woud be sutabe to use wth
ths s rt front.
The s etch shows how the s rt
peces are ftted together to ma e a
compete s rt. ote that the under-
ay s e acty the wdth of the
e tenson of the s rt front. ote
that the two s rt fronts and one
peat underay must be cut.
9S0 Mayer Pubshng o. 221 est 34 St. ew or 8. . .
G
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,
S T T A SED A ST E A D U P ESSED P EATS
EAD G T E S ET - There s a secton
e tendng above the wastne, whch
contnues down the front as a center
pane. The unpressed peat appears to be
n the center of the sde gore but
actuay s ony 2 1/2 from the center
pane. The s rt s sghty fared.
AT S T E P EM The center secton
must be shaped. E tra wdth must be ob-
taned for the unpressed peat. E tra
heght must be added for the rased
wast ne.
ut out a dartess front soper.
Mar a pont on the wastne 2 1/2
from . Mar pont at ower edge
3 1/2 from . Draw a straght ne
between the two ponts, endng at
pont A 2 down from wastne. Draw
a curve from sde edge of wastne
to pont A. Mar for notches as shown.
Mar a pont on curved ne 2 1/2
from and mar a pont on ower edge
3 1/2 from . Draw a sash ne be-
tween the two ponts. ut sde secton
from front secton by cuttng aong
curved ne at A and down aong
ne A .
Sash aong sash ne to wthn
1/16 of ower edge. Pace wor ng
soper on new sheet and spread sash
openng 2 at the upper edge. Pn.
E tend ower edge 1 1/2 beyond the
sde seamne and draw a ne to the
notch to add fare. Trace outsde
edges of wor ng soper. Trace the
peat nes down 4 . emove wor ng
soper.
abe the peat ne nearest the
sde edge M as shown. abe the
remanng peat ne . Draw gran-
ne down the center of the sde
secton.
rease aong ne and brng crease
to ne M , taperng the peat to a
pont about haf-way down the s rt
as shown. Add a 2 hem aowance at
ower edge and add seam aowance to
remanng edges. ut out pattern.
pght 9S0 Mayer Pubshng o. 229 est 34 St. ew or S, .
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S T T A SED A ST E A D U P ESSED P EATS
,
Unpn the peat. E tend notches
to edge of pattern and cut. otch
each peat ne at upper edge.
abe pattern S T S DE T.
Pn center pane on new sheet wth
on straght edge of sheet. Mar pont
, 1 above and 1/8 beyond the sde-
seam pont. Draw a straght ne from
to the sdeseam pont. Mar for a
notch at the sdeseam pont. Mar
pont S 2 1/2 above end of . TE:
The 1/8 e tenson s needed because
the body wdens sghty above the
wastne.
Draw a curved ne between ponts
and S as shown note carefuy
the shape of ths upper edge. Add
a 2 hem aowance to the ower
edge and add seam aowance to a
remanng edges. E tend notches.
ndcate fodon . abe pattern
S T T. ut out the pattern.
opyrght 1950 Mayer Pubshng o. 229 est 34 St. ew or 18.
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PEG-T P S T
EAD G T E S ET - A peg-top s rt a
de at the top and narrow at the bottom.
There are three mpressed peats of
varyng engths radatng from the
mstne to form a peg-top effect. The
s rt s sghty narrower than soper
neasurenent at the ower edge. AT S
E P EM E tra wdth must be ob-
taned for the unpressed peats. The
rt must be made narrower beow the
pne. A facng must be made to fnsh
the ower edge.
1, m
ut out a dartess front soper.
Mar ponts A, and on wastne
usng the measurements gven. Draw
a sash ne from the notch to .
Draw a sash ne from A to the ower
corner of the s rt. Draw n reman-
ng sash ne as shown.
Sash aong sash nes to wthn
1/16 of sde edge. Pn wor ng soper
on new sheet wth 1/2 from
straght edge of sheet to aow for a
seam. Spread the sash openngs
accordng to the measurements gven.
Pn. Trace the outsde outne of the
wor ng soper, mar ng a pont at
the top of each sde of sash openngs.
To obtan peat nes: shorten the
sash openngs (n the same raan.er a
dart s shortened) to about 2/3 of
the orgna ength. emove wor ng
soper. TE: The ength of the peat
nes shoud be udged by the ength
of the peat nes n the s etch
(bo 1).
Draw a eranne parae to .
To narrow s rt: mar a pont on ower
edge 3/4 n from sde seam (ths
amount may be vared accordng to the
bottom wdth desred). Draw asmoothy
curved ne from the ange caused by
the mdde sash, as shown, down to
the 3/4 mar .
Add seam aowance to sde and ower
edges. ose off each peat by creas-
ng aong the ne nearest the and
brngng the crease to the ne near-
est the sde seamne. Pn. Add seam
aowance to wastne edge. Mar for
notches on seam. otch at sde
edge 7 down from wastne edge. ut
out pattern.
U r PuhUhtnn ,
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PEG-T P S T

Unpn peats and open pattern.
E tend peat nes to wastne
edge and notch. abe pattern
S T T.
6
-- - : . ._.-...-. :_ _ -.___
otce that the s rt s nar-
rower at the ower edge than t
s at the hpne. A hem can not
be used n a s rt e ths be-
cause f the -ower edge were
turned up t woud not be suff-
centy wde to e fat on the
s rt. See s etch.
To ma e a facng for the ower
edge: Trace the ower porton of
the fnshed pattern on a new
sheet, tracng the and sde
edges up ony 2 1/2 . Trace n
seamne at , sde and ower
edge. Mar ponts and as
shown. Draw a ne from to ,
foowng the contour of the
ower edge. Draw granne
parae to . abe pattern
A G. ut out pattern. Ma e a
wastband n the usua manner.
c
15
To a e the s rt bac : trace a
bac soper on a sheet of paper wth
1/2 from straght edge of sheet
to aow for seam. Ma e the s rt
bac narrower beow the hpne n
the same manner as the s rt front.
Add 2 hen aowance and seam
aowance to other edges.
Draw a granne parae to .
Mar for notches on seam.
otch sde edge 7 down from
wastne. otch and perforate
dart. ut out pattern and abe
S T A .
opyrght 9S Mayer Pubshng o. 229 est 34 St. ew or 8, . .
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s
S T T A T DGE P EAT E E T
EAD G T E S ET - The s rt has a
center front seam. n each sde of
the center front there are three car-
trdge- e peats whch are seamed
down about 3 and are 1 apart. Tfe
s rt s fu and sghty fared.
AT S T E P EM E tra wdth must
be obtaned for the unpressed peats.
ut out a dartess front
soper. Mar ponts usng the
measurements gven. Draw sash
nes A , E and D. S uare a
gudene from the center front
across the soper. umber strps
as shown.
ut aong sash nes. Pn the number 1
strp on a sheet of paper wth 1/2 from
straght edge of sheet to aow for a
seam. E tend gudene across the sheet. Pn
down the remanng sectons, havng the
gudenes matchng and eavng a 2 parae
peat space between each secton.
Trace the outsde outne of wor ng soper and mar a
pont at upper and ower ends of each peat ne. ar a
pont on each sde of each peat space 3 down from
wastne. Draw granne n center of peat space between
strps 2 and 3. emove wor ng soper.
Draw n the peat nes down to the 3 ponts as shown.
Draw nes across the peat spaces between the 3 ponts
as shown. Draw an even curve at ower edge of s rt as
shown.
opyrght f Meyer Pubshng o. t est 34 St. ew or 8, . .
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S T T A T DGE P EAT E E T
Add a 2 hem aowance at ower edge as shown. Add a
1 hem facng aowance at upper edge of peat as shown.
Add seam aowance to a remanng edges. Mar for
notches on seam. E tend notch at sde edge to edge of
pattern. abe pattern S T MT. ut out pattern.
To test the s rt front pattern: cp dagonay to
seamne at nner corners as shown. Turn hemfacng to
nsde aong seamne. TE: The s etch s shown from the
nsde or wrong sde of the pattern.
8
th rght sdes together pn peat
seams down to the corner.

Push peat thru to outsde. Test on

mode form or on body. Ma e a wast-
band n the usua manner. f a com-
pete pattern s desred, ether of
the s rt bac patterns made n esson
or 2 can be used.
opyrght 0 Mayer Pubshng o- 229 est 34 St. ew or 18. .
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AP-A U D S T
EAD G T E S ET - The-s rt conssts of a basc
front unders rt, a three-gore bac whch s sghty
fared, and a front overs rt wth three unpressed
peats radatng from the wastne. The overs rt ends
at about 4 beyond the center front, and s shaped at
the bottom. The wastband buttons at the sde front.
AT S T E P EM The front unders rt must be made.
The bac gores must be formed and addtona fare must
be obtaned at the sde bac seams. The overs rt must
be made wth e tra funess for the peats. The wast-
band must be made.
T
U DE S T
Trace a dartess front soper on a foded sheet of paper
wth on foded edge of sheet. Add seam aowance to
wastne and sde edges and add a 2 hem aowance at
at ower edge. E tend notch to sde edge. ut out
pattern and abe T U DE S T. _.
3
T
U DE S 1 T
pe pattern. otch wastne at . Mar granne on
ne. Trace seamnes and hemne on eft sde of
pattern as shown. Draw a ruer straght ne between
the upper and ower corners of the rght sde edge of
pattern as shown and cut aong ths ne. TE: The
curve at ths edge has been removed for two reasons:
(a) Ths edge s not seamed so t need not ft the body
curve, (b) A straght edge s more easy fnshed wth
seam bndng.
ut out a bac soper. Mar pont on ower edge 4 1/2
from . Draw a straght ne from pont of dart to .
Mar for two notches near the pont of the dart. Draw
granne n sde secton parae to as shown or
draw the granne n the mdde of the secton as n
esson 2. ut out dart and contnue cuttng aong
straght ne to .
oovraht 1950
or 18, . .
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AP-A U D S T
Pn sectons of wor ng soper on new
sheet wth on straght edge of
sheet. E tend ower edges 1 1/2 be-
yond the sde bac edges as shown and
draw straght nes from ends of e -
tended nes to notches. Trace reman-
ng porton of wor ng soper and re-
move wor ng soper.
Add a 2 nem aowance at ower edges
and add seam aowance to remanng
edges. ndcate fod on . E tend
notches to edges of pattern. abe
patterns S T A and S T S DE
A . ut out pattern.
Trace a dartess front soper on a
foded pece of paper wth on fod
edge of sheet. ut out wor ng soper.
pen pattern.
Draw a bro en ne aong . Mar pont A on wastne
4 over from ne as shown. Mar pont on ower
edge 5 1/2 from ne and draw ne A . Mar pont
4 up on ne A . Mar pont D on ower edge about 3
from sde edge and draw an even curve between pont D
and . ut aong ne A and D.
Mar for notch on wastne at . Mar three ponts
3/4 apart on wastne as shown. Mar a pont on sde
edge about 10 down from wastne. Mar twomore ponts
on sde edge to dvde the remander of the sde edge
nto three e ua parts. Draw sash nes as shown
nts
opyrght 950 Mayer Pubshng o. 229 est 34 St. ew o
G
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AP-A U D S T
Sash aong sash nes to wthn
1/16 of sde edge. Pn wor ng soper
on new sheet wth straght edge of
soper 1 1/2 from straght edge of
sheet. T : Ths 1 1/2 w be used
ater for a facng. Spread the sash
openngs unt they measure 3 . 2 and
1 as shown n the s etch. Pn. Trace
the outsde outne of the wor ng
soper mar ng a pont at the upper
each sash openng.
To obtan the peat nes: shorten
the sash openngs (nthe same manner
a dart s shortened) usng the mea-
surements gven n the s etch. TE:
The measurements were obtaned by
udgng the ength of the peats n
the s etch (bo 1). Draw granne
parae to front edge. emove wor ng
soper.
ose off each peat by creasng as
shown n the drawng. Pn.
rease aong the front edge of the
pattern and fod under the 1 1/2 hem
facng. Add 1/2 seam aowance to a
edges. E tend notches to edge of
pattern. ut out pattern.
14
pen pattern. abe pattern T
E S T. otch at upper and ower
ends of straght ne. otch upper
ends of peat nes.
opyrght 1950 Mayer Pubshng o. 229 est 34 St. ew or 8, . .
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AP-A U D S T
15

T TA T A1ST
MEASU EME T
ESS
T TA A A1ST
MEASU EME T,
ESS 1
- T
A ST
M EAS.. A
ESS y
Determne the ength of the wastband by addng together the foowng measurements:
a) front soper wast measure doubed ess 1/4 (wast measure of front unders rt).
b) bac soper wast measure doubed ess 1/4 (wastne measure of bac and sde bac gores).
c) front soper wast measure ess 1/8 and pus 4 (wastne measure of front overs rt).
Draw a rectange 2 wde and the cacuated ength of the wastband. Mar off the three measurements on the rectange
as shown. Mar for notches at both center fronts and at center bac . Add seam aowance to a edges. E tend notches.
ut out pattern and abe A ST A D.
opyrght 1950 Mayer Pubshng o. 221 est 34 St. ew or 18.
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U A S T

, 5
EAD G T E S ET - The s etch
shows a very fu s rt wth man
deep fods. Snce the s rt fts
smoothy at the wastne and has
many fods t s a fu crcuar s rt.
AT S T E P EM The sze of
the wastne must be determned and
then drawn nto a crce. The s rt
ength s then mar ed eveny a around
the wastne crce. The pattern s
modfed sghty from a. perfect cr-
ce to mprove the hang of the s rt.
U
S E
DED A
g DED

9UA TE
z
o DE
To determne the re ured wdth of matera, add 7 to the desred ength
of s rt. or e ampe, a 30 s rt woud re ure 37 matera. or a very
sma wast, add ony 6 and use smaer seam aowances, f necessary to use
36 matera. The ength of the matera shoud be four tmes the wdth.
The s rt shoud frst be cut n paper or n ne pensve musn.
od the paper or matera n haf across ts ength, and then n haf
agan. The four ower pan or sevedge edges w form the two sde seams.
The two nterfoded edges on the eft w form the center front and center
bac nes. abe the edges accordngy. E TE D and S DE SEAM ES.
d
f
U4
DE
5EAM E5
SEAM A A ED
Mar off 1/2 seam aowances on the four
pan edges. od under the edges aong the
seam aowance nes.
Measure the wastne
of the person to be ftted,
eepng the tape measure
snug around the wast.
Subtract 2 from the
wast measurement and d-
vde the resutng fgure
by 6.
or e ampe, f the
wast s 28 subtract 2
to get 26 . Dvde 26 by
6 to get 4 2/6 or 4 1/3 .
n the ruer ths woud
be about 4 1/4 . 4 1/4
s used to draw the wast
crce.
S3
_4
o
-
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u-
5 PE
5EAM E5
A compass may be used to draw the 4 1/4
crce (for 28 wastne ony), or a ruer
may be used to mar off a seres of 41/4
dashes curvng around the corner, by pvotng
the ruer. nay, a curve may be drawn
through the mar s.
opyrght 0 Mayer Pubshng o. 229 est 34 St. ew or 18, . .
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.
U A S T
, 51DE
5EAM E
Ma e a mar 1/2 above the curve at
the sde seam end. e-shape the curve
so that t fows smoothy nto the
1/2 mar . TE: Ths w cause the
s rt to hang more gracefuy by
throwng more fare nto the front.
50
Determne the desred s rt ength
and mar off ths amount a around
the wastne wth a seres of dashes.
Ma e the dashes at the mdde of the
curve about 1 coser to the wast-
ne to shorten the matera on the
true bas. TE: Matera on the bas
aways stretches and s therefore
made shorter.
Draw a smoothy fowng hemne
curve through the seres of dashes.
Add a seam aowance at the hemne,
or a hem aowance f desred. Add a
seam aowance at the wastne curve.
ut out the pattern.
10
Put the s rt over the form. f
possbe, wear t for a short tme
before sewng the hem as crcuar
s rts have a tendency to sag after
beng worn. f the was t s too arge,
t may be eased nto the wastband,
or ta en n at the sde seams. f the
wast s too sma a sma amount
(about 1/8 ) may be trmmed off the
top to ma e the crce arger or the
sde seams may be reeased sghty.
Do not try to udge the hang of the
s rt unt t has been sewn or basted
nto a wastband. To change the fare
of the s rt, the wastne may be
deepened at any pont for more fare
at that pont, or t may be fattened
to decrease the fare.
Unfod the two haves and spread them out fat wth sde seamnes
matchng.
hec the sde seamnes for eveness of ength andcorrect the engths
f necessary.
Add seam aowance nes to a edges.
abe the two haves T A D A .
Aow suffcent seam aowances at a edges.
opyrght 19 S Mayer Pubshng o 22 est 34 S
_w nrb M
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GAT E ED PEP UM
EAD G T E S ET - The pepum (front
nd bac ) s gathered to the s rt at
e wastband wth gathers that begn
tout from each sde seam. The ower
ge sants dagonay. AT S T E
ft EM The desred ength and dagona
ne must be determned. uness for
athers must be obtaned.
Trace upper haf of darted front
soper on a foded sheet of paper
wth on fod edge of sheet. Do not
draw n dart. ut out wor ng soper.
TE: The dart w be gnored because
t w be used as part of the gathers.
pen pattern. Draw a bro en ne
aong center ne. To mt gathers,
mar for notches on wastne 1
from each sde seamne. Mar ponts
A and usng the measurements gven.
Draw ne A and cut aong ths ne.
Draw a gudene as shown, perpen-
dcuar to . Mar off three e uay
spaced ponts on wastne each sde
of center as shown. Draw sash nes
from these ponts to the ower edge,
ma ng nes parae to . umber
sectons. ut aong sash nes but
do not cut aong center ne. TE:
A gudene of ths nd can be used
ony f t s drawn s uared to the
and then ony f the sash nes are
parae to the .
2
D
111
T
5,

.. : .
Pn o. 1 secton on a new sheet. E tend gudene
across sheet. Pn down remanng sectons eavng a 2
parae space between each secton, matchng gudenes.
Trace sde seamnes. Trace upper edges of sectons but
do not trace ower edges. emove wor ng soper.
TE: The 2 spaces w provde 2 to 1 gatherng. or
1 1/2 to 1 gatherng, use 1 spacng.
Mar for a notch at upper end of ne. Draw gran-
ne aong center ne. Ma e an even curve at wastne
usng the bro en ne as a gude. Draw a dagona ne
between ponts A and . Draw another ne 2 from ths
for hem aowances. ut aong the ower ne.
.od under the 2 hem aowance. Add seam aowance to
sde and wastne edges. E tend notches at wastne
Mar for a notch on rght sde seamne 4 down from
wastne. Mar for two notches on eft sde seamne
4 down from wastne. ut out pattern.
abe pattern T PEP UM. Turn down hem aowance
and notce the ange at the hemne. TE: Such an ange
occurs whenever there s a dagona hemne.
950 Mayer Pubshng o. 229 esf 34 St. ew or 18. . .
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GAT E ED PEP UM
0
epeat steps 2, 3 and 4 usng the
bac soper. TE: The rght sde
edge of a bac pattern s on the
rght hand sde of the drawng.
10
epeat steps 5, 6 and 7 but note that the bac wastne edge s a
straght ne. abe pattern A PEP UM. TE: The s rt shown n the
s etch s the four gore s rt descrbed n esson . The wastband
shoud be made as descrbed n that esson.
opyrght 9S0 M.yer Pubshng o. 229 t 36 St. ew or ,
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P EATED PEP UM
EAD G T E S ET - The pepum s com-
osed of nverted bo peats. There s
enter front and bac seam but the bac
earn s conceaed n a peat. There s
o peat at the center front. The peats
re appro matey 2 apart. The pepum
s about 1 ong. AT S T E P EM
he peats must appear e ua n sze and
ppro matey parae to one another,
et they must be shaped to ft the smaer
astne and the wder hpne. Ths s
ccompshed by shapng the fod of each
eat sghty. The amount of shapng
ust be cacuated.
2.
- -4-

Measure the front and bac sopers across the hpne. Add the two measurements
together for the tota haf-fgure hp measurement. Dvde ths measurement
nto e ua parts whch measure as neary 2 as possbe. or e ampe: the
soper ncuded wth the course has a hp measure whch s about 18 and t can
be dvded nto 9 e ua parts measurng about 2 . ut f the hpne measure-
ments s not an e act mutpe of 2 (16. 18. 20. etc.) t w not be possbe
to ma e 2 peats. A greater number of peats w be re ured for a arge hp-
ne, a smaer number for a sma hpne. Peats may vary from 1 3/4 to
2 1/4 for odd hp szes such as 17, 19. 21. 18 1/2, etc. n the s etches of
ths esson, 9 s rt spaces (2 n wdth) w be used.
TE: The pattern for a fu-ength s rt s made n e acty the same manner,
usng paper ong enough for the desred ength of s rt. owever, f the peats
are to be sttched down to about the hpne, a perforaton woud be made on
the peat ne at the pont where the sttchng s to end.
E TE A 6EAM
E TE T 5EAM
Use a ong sheet of paper 12 1/2 wde. TE: About 2 yards of paper w be needed but 2 peces can be pasted to-
gether to obtan suffcent ength. Draw a ne 1/2 from the rght end as shown, to be used for seam aowance.
Draw a ne 1/2 from upper edge to be used as seam aowance at the wastne. Draw a ne 2 from ower edge for
hem aowance. egnnng at front edge mar off a 2 s rt space parae to . Then mar off a 4 parae peat
space. Draw a bro en ne down the center of the peat space. Shade the peat space. ontnue mar ng s rt spaces
and peat spaces unt 9 s rt spaces have been mar ed. Then mar ony 1/2 of a peat space as shown usng a bro en
ne. Add 1/2 seam aowance at ths edge ( ). Trm off e cess paper as shown.
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P EATED PEP UM
ow the s rt must be shaped above the hpne to create the narrower wast. The method of shapng any number of
peats to any sze fgure s as foows:
a) Subtract the haf-wast measurement from the haf-hp measurement. n the e ampe we have 18 (haf-hp measure
of sze 12 soper), mnus 13 (haf wast measure of sze 12 soper), e uas 5 .
b) The wastne s to be reduced 5 by ncreasng the sze of each peat space sghty at the wastne and
taperng off to the orgna peat ne at the hpne. n the e ampe each of the 9 peats conssts of 2 nes
e ceptng the haf-peat at the , thus ma ng 17 the tota number of peat nes.
c) The 5 s therefore dvded by 17 whch gves a 5/17 ncrease for each peat ne. The nearest measure of the
ruer s 5/16 , whch s the amount to be added to each peat space for these partcuar measurements.
Draw the hpne about 7 1/2 from the upper edge. Mar a pont 5/16 on each sde of each peat space (e amne
the s etch carefuy). Draw ruer straght nes from these ponts taperng to the orgna peat nes at the
hpne. TE: These corrected nes are to be creased and brought to the center bro en nes, and pressed to form
nverted bo peats.
rease aong corrected peat nes and brng crease to
bro en nes. Pn. Mar pont A 1 down on ne. Mar
pont about mdway on wastne. Draw an even curve
between ponts A and . ut aong ths curved ne. Draw
n a seamne 1/2 from new upper edge. TE: Ths cor-
recton s necessary because the wastne s ower n
the front than t s n the bac - that s, t s coser
to the hpne.
pen pattern. otch at upper and ower ends of each peat ne. Ma e 1 notch at and 2 notches at as shown
abe pattern PEP UM.
hen machne-made peats are used, no actua pattern s necessary atho the pattern ma ng nowedge earned n
ths esson s used. The tota fu ength hp measurement s ta en. The strps of fabrc (12 1/2 wde and 3 tmes the
tota hp measure) are cut. These strps are seamed together and one seam s eft open. The 2 hem s fnshed. Then
the fabrc s sent to the peaters wth drectons as to stye, sze and spacng of peats. hen the peated fabrc
s returned, the open seam s sewed. Then the shapng (descrbed n steps 4 and 5) s done by fodng n the fabrc
durng the constructon process.
opyrght 960 Mayer Pubshng o. 229 34 St. ew or 18. . r
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U A PEP UM
EAD G T E S ET - The pepum s
tted at the wastne but fares nto
fu crce at the ower edge. AT
(S T E P EM The orgna soper
ast measurement must be retaned but
the ower edge must be ncreased greaty
by sashng and spreadng) unt t be-
:omes a fu crce. A facng for the
ower edge must be made.
--t
Trace a dart ess front soper to
8 beow wastne. emove soper.
Draw n an even curve 8 from wast-
ne. Mar off 5 e uay spaced ponts
on wastne and ower edge. onnect
the ponts by drawng sash nes.
Mar ponts A and at upper corners
as shown. ut out wor ng soper.
Sash aong sash nes to wthn
1/16 of wastne. ut a pece of
paper 14 s uare. Draw a ne 1/2
from upper edge and mar pont at
rght end of ths ne as shown.
Pn wor ng soper on new sheet as
foows:
a) pace pont so that t touches
the ne drawn 1/2 from edge.
b) pace center edge of wor ng
soper on straght edge of sheet.
c) have wastne edge fat on sheet
of paper and move wor ng soper
unt ponts A and are an e ua
dstance from .
d) spread sash openngs e uay.
Trace the wastne edge. Draw n a
contnuous even curve aong ower edge
of strps e tendng the curved ne
to the upper edge of the sheet.
emove wor ng soper.
Trace a bac soper to 8 beow
wastne. emove soper. Draw n an
even curve 8 from wastne. ut
out wor ng soper. Sash froa ower
edge to pont of dart as shown.
ndcate fod on center ne. Add
seam aowance to wastne and ower
edges. Use the 1/2 at upper edge for
seam aowance on sde edge of pattern.
Mar for notch on sde edge 4 down
from wastne. abe pattern T
PEP UM. ut out pattern.
The 2 wde shaded area represents
the porton to be used to ma e a se-
parate facng.
epeat Steps 3 and 4 same as for
front. abe pattern A PEP UM. The
2 wde shaded area represents the
porton to be used to ma e a separate
facng.
ose off and pn the dart. Mar off
5 e uay spaced ponts on wastne
and ower edges. onnect the ponts
by drawng sash nes. Mar ponts A
and same as for the front.
:opyro.ht 1950 Mayef Pubshng o. 229 est 34 St. ew or 18. . .
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MA G T E TTED S EE E S PE

EAD G T E S ET :
The seeve pattern s composed of two parts:
1. The AP s the upper part above the bceps ne whch
e tends nto the curve of the armhoe.
2. The D s the ower part whch e tends downward from
the bceps ne. t curves around the ebow and narrows
down to the wrst.
AT S T E P EM
a) The seeve cap must ft nto the armhoe of the bodce
accuratey but wth ease. t must accomodate the wdth
of the bceps musce wth e tra wdth to permt freedom
of movement, and ts heght must e ua the heght of the
bodce armhoe. There shoud be from 1 to 1 3/4 aow-
ance for easng-n the cap when sewng.
b) The body must have ade uate ength, e tra wdth for ebow
movement, a narrow wrst, and underarm seamnes of
e ua ength.
c) The seeve must have a propery estabshed granne to
avod twstng of the seeve due to mproper gran.
d) o shouder pad aowances w be made as ths s a basc soper and dfferent stye
seeves re ure dfferent sze pad aowances. Shouder pad aowances w be ta en up
n a ater esson.
AUT : t s of the utmost mportance to ma e measurements accuratey, to measure care-
fuy for every parae ne, and to use a perfecty s uare ange for every s uared ne.
T DETE M E E G T AP: ay front
and bac sopers fat on a sheet of
paper wth sde seams together. Draw a
connectng ne between the shouder
ends. Draw a ne from (at the top of
the sde seam) up to the mdde of the
connectng ne. Drop center pont 3/4
and mar pont . Measure dstance
to determne heght of cap as shown
by . TE: The heght of the cap s
about 5 3/4 for a sze 12.
23 yz o .
- -U DE A M E GT y
0
2 EG T
AP

121
-5 -
T DETE M E T E DT T E AP: Measure around the bceps musce. ote
that t s about 10 3/4 for a sze 12. Add 2 for ease and freedom of move-
ment. The wdth of the cap s therefore about 12 3/4 for a sze 12.
ST U T G T E S 2E 12 S EE E AP: Use a sheet of paper about 15 by 25 .
Measure the underarm ength (see s etch n step 1). ote that t s about
17 3/4 for a sze 12. Add to ths heght of cap (about 5 3/4 ). Draw a rec-
tange 12 3/4 (wdth of cap) by 23 1/2 (appro mate overarm ength) eavng
a 1/4 space at upper edge of sheet. Draw a center ne dvdng the rectange
n haf engthwse. Draw a bceps ne 5 3/4 (appro mate heght of cap) be-
ow upper edge of rectange. abe the bceps ne A as shown.

opyrght 1950 Mayer Pubshng o. 229 est 34 St. ew or , . .

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MA G T E TTED S EE E S PE
S E 12 EE E AP
DT AP 12 /
The Dagram shows ony the upper part (cap porton) of the rectange.
abe T and A as shown. Draw a short gudene 1/8 beow upper edge of rectange as shown. n ths gudene,
mar a pont 3/4 to the front of center ne and a pont 7/8 to the bac of the center ne. Draw the remanng
gudenes as shown. Measure and mar ponts ndcated. TE: The short dotted nes between some of the ponts and
the gudenes show that the ponts have been estabshed by s uarng from the gudenes. rce the ponts whch are
crced n the s etch. TE: Drapng thousands of seeves on the human form and on the mode form has resuted n the
above measurements for an average sze 12. These measurements vary for other szes. n szes other than 12. the seeve
nay be traced from the graded seeve forms ncuded wth the course. r. f the student nows gradng, any sze seeve
can be graded from a sze 12.
DT AP
onnect the crced ponts by drawng even curves as shown n the s etch to form the armhoe curve. hec the armhoe
curve carefuy to see that there are not sght rreguartes or anges.
opyrght tS0 May Pubshng o. 229 t 3 St. w or . . .
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MA G T E TTED S EE E S PE
The ebow ne s drawn
1/2 above the mdde of
the underarm ength. abe
ends of ebow ne E .
Ta e the body wrst mea-
surement (about 6 n a
sze 12) and add 1 1/4 for
sase. n sze 12 ths tota
s 7 1/4 . Mar off ths
measurement on the ower
ne, havng 2/3 of the
measurement on the front
part of the seeve as shown,
(to obtan the 2/3 measure-
ment easy wthout arth-
metc, cut a narrow strp
of paper e ua to the wrst
measurement n ength
then smpy fod the paper
nto e ua thrds and use
to mar of f on ower ne).
abe and D at ends of
wrst measure as shown.
Draw straght ne A .
Mar pont G 4 n from
ne A on ebow ne.
Mar pont on ebow
ne so that e uas GE.

E
M DD E
t
A
EPS E
n
E
E
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3D

3D
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T
D ST MEASU E /
4
opyrght Mayer Pubshng o. 229 est 34 St. ew or 18, . .
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MA G T E TTED S EE E S PE

S uare a ne from D
ownward for at east 1 .
Draw a straght ne from
thru e tendng the
.ne 1M beyond . Mar a
ont e acty from .
Mar pont P on ebow
ne 3 from .
Draw a ne from P to
he pont. n ths ne
mar pont 3 from P.
Draw ne AG curvng t
ery sghty, as shown.
Measure ne G usng
hs ength draw a ne
rom to meet the ne
hch was s uared downward
rom D.
Mar pont . Draw an
even curve between and .
opyrght 1950 Mayer Pubshng o. 221 est St. ew or 18,
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MA G T E TTED S EE E S PE

Measure the curved ength
of the front armhoe curve
of the bodce soper (as
Measure the curved ength
of the front armhoe curve
of the bodce soper (a
Measure the curved ength
of the front armhoe curve
of the bodce soper (as
n esson A4, Step ) usng
a fe be pastc ruer
f possbe. Mar of f(wth
the fe be ruer) the
front armhoe ength from
the front end of the seeve
cap. abe the mar .
Measure around the bac
bodce armhoe curve n
the same manner and mar
off the bac armhoe ength
from the bac end of the
seeve cap. abe the
mar M.
The two mar s ( M)
shoud be about 1 1/2
apart n order to provde
about 1 1/2 e tra ength
tor easng n the seeve.
The seeve cap may have to
be owered to decrease the
ease f the measurement s
more than 1 1/2 , or t
may have to be rased f
the measurement between
and M s ess than 1 1/4 .
f such a correcton s
necessary the cap must be
reshaped carefuy so that
there s no apparent ater-
aton or rreguarty n
the curve.
A notch s paced mdway
between mar s and M to
show where the seeve cap
must meet the shouder
seam when benfe sewn n.
Ths mdway mar , however,
shoud not be more than
1/4 from the centerne
f the shouder was ad-
usted for commerca use
as shown n esson A4,
Step 7.
abe granne on center
ne.
n the sght ange
at G wth a curved ne.
ose off and pn ebow
dart by creasng aong ne
nearest the ower edge and
brnfeng the crease to the
upper dart ne.
ut out pattern and then
remove pns from darts.
Draw a ne from the
notch at the top of the
cap, parae to the center
ne, competey to the
ower end of the seeve.
abe ths ne G A E.
otch at ower end of the
gran ne.
:opyrght 1950 Mayer Pubshng o. 229 est 34 St. ew or 18, . .
12
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TEST G T E TTED S EE E S PE

ut out a front and bac bodce wth and on foded pece

of musn, addng 1/2 seam aowance to a but nec and
wastne edges. Sttch darts and rght sde seam. Sttch eft
sde seam to wthn 5 of wastne edge. Sash center front
from nec edge down about 5 . ut out seeve pattern addng
1/2 seam aowance to a but wrst edge. Sttch dart. Sttch
underarm seam to wthn 4 of ower edge.
aste seeve n bodce armhoe. wth underarm seass
matchng and wth center notch of seeve cap at shoude
seam of bodce ease n the upper haf of the seeve cap
TE: The seeve cap s arger than the bodce armhoe
The e tra fabrc of the seeve cap must be eased n the
sewng process. Ths ease s necessary for freedou o
arm movement.
T t the garment on the body. There shoud be no twst n the seeve there shoud be no dagona wrn es. The
ebow ne shoud fa aong the body ebow ne. The ower edge of the seeve shoud reach ust beow the bend of
the wrst. The seeve shoud be snug but arge enough to permt bendng the ebow. The cap of the seeve shoud ft
smoothy wth no wrn es. The cap must be suffcenty wde and ong to permt natura movement of the arm and body
wthout stran to ether the seeve or the bodce.
f there are correctons to be ma e, pn-ft at ths tme. arefuy transfer a correctons from the musn to
the pattern. The corrected pattern shoud he mnde n PUS 1 n and tested agan.
The seeve w be used repeatedy and
must therefore be made up n heavyweght
paper same as the bodce and s rt sopers.
otch and perforate the ebow dart.
otch both ends of the granne.
otch at 3 from the front and at 3
from the bac end of seeve cap curve
(the 3 s measured aong the curve).
ut another notch at the bac ust
above the 3 notch to ad n dstngush-
ng between the front and the bac curves.
ut one notch on armhoe edge of front uodce soper
measured on the armhoe curve e acty 3 up from sde
edge. ut 2 notches on armhoe edge of bac soper n
same manner. TE: These notches match the correspond-
ng notches n the seeve.
opyrght 960 Mayer Pubshng o 229 est 34 St. ew or 19.
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MA G T E ST A G T S EE E S PE
EAD G T E S ET - The upper porton of the straght
seeve s the sane as the ftted seeve soper.
The ower porton dffers however, n that t s not
narrowed to ft the ower arm and wrst.
AT S T E P EM The cap of the straght seeve s
dentca to the cap of the ftted seeve.
The body of the seeve e tends downward (n a bo form)
from the bceps ne to the wrst.
ecause of the bend of the ebow, the bac ength of
the seeve must be made greater than the front ength.
Trace the cap of the ftted seeve on a neet of paper
about 17 by 26 .
Draw n the bceps ne and the center ne.
abe bceps ne A and as shown.
Measure the underarm ength (see s etch n o 1).
S uare nes from the bceps ne at ponts A and ,
ma ng the nes e ua to the underarm ength.
Mar ower ends of nes and D.
Draw ne D.
E tend center ne downward to e acty the center of
ne D.
TE: The rectange A D s the bass for the straght
seeve.
hec to be sure that t s a perfect rectange.
A
M.
A
T
abe P owr and A as snown.
Mar pont E at ower end of center ne.
Mar a pont 3/4 beow mdpont of ne E.
Mar a pont 1/4 above the mdpont of ne ED.
rce the ponts crced n the s etch.
Draw an even-fowng curve between and D thru the
crced ponts.
TE: The front seeve ength s made shorter than the
abe granne on center ne.
ut out pattern.
otch both ends of center ne.
otch cap of seeve same as n esson .
opy the pattern n heavy paper so the soper can be
used repeatedy.
bac .
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S U DE PAD A A E
A-T PE S U DE E
-T PE GA ME T
EAD G T E S ET - The shouder pad rases the shouder at
the armhoe edge. The pad aso wdens the shouder ne because
t e tends about 1/2 beyond the shouder.
AT S T E P EM The shouder edge of the bodce soper
must be rased and e tended to acconmodate the pad. The seeve
cap must be heghtened the same amount.
TE: Types of Shouder Pads - Shouder pads can be cassfed
n two ways:
a) type of shouder ne-- s uare or rounded
b) type of garment - coat, sut, dress or bouse
ote the s etches showng a s uare and a round shouder pad. f
a. garment has the usua reguaton armhoe, a s uare pad s
used. f the garment has a ragan seeve or a dropped shouder,
the -rounded pad s used. A coat pad covers a greater surface
snd has greater heght than the pad for any other garment. ote
n the s etches that the surface and heght of the pad becomes
ncreasngy smaer n a sut, a dress and a bouse. t s
possbe to buy pads n today s mar et accordng to the above
types - for e ampe rounded dress pad , s uare coat pad ,
s uare bouse pad etc. ost stores carry a chart of pad types
n the notons department
Draw n an even curve between pont and the notch on both
front and bac soper as shown. hec ths curve carefuy
for eveness of contour. TE: hen a garment s to have a pad,
these aowances shoud be made on the bodce soper before
wor begns on the desgn tsef. The notches must be e tended
Trace a front and bac bodce soper on a sheet of
paper. E tend the shouder nes 1/2 as shown. Mea-
sure the heght of the pad to be used (an average
dress pad s about 1/2 n heght). Add the pad heght
to the shouder ne by mar ng pont to a pont
about 1 from end of shouder ne as shown. Ths s
the new shouder ne.
E G T
PAD
Trace the ftted seeve soper on a sheet of paper.
Add the desred heght of the pad to the cap of the
seeve by mar ng a pont drecty above the center
notch. Draw n a new armhoe curve from ths pont
to the notch on the front of the seeve cap and draw
a curve from ths pont to the notch on the bac use
the soper seeve cap as a gude for drawng the
curve. hec the new curve carefuy for eveness of
contour. TE: The cap of the straght seeve soper
s heghtened for a pad by ths same method.
to the new edge.
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E S EE E
EAD G TfE S ET - Ths s a pan
conservatvey fared be seeve. t
ends about 4 above the wrst. t s
wder than the straght seeve soper
at the ower edge.
AT S T E P EM The straght
seeve soper must be shortened. 6
e tra wdth must be obtaned by sash-
ng and spreadng the seeve soper.
ut out a straght seeve soper.
Mar ponts on underarm seamnes 4
up from ower edge.
Draw a parae curve 4 above the
ower edge curve.
ut off shaded secton at bottom of
s eeve.
z

Draw sash nes from notches to
ower edge, havng nes parae to
granne.
Sash aong sash nes from ower
edge to wthn 1/16 of edge at cap
of wor ng soper.
Pace wor ng soper on new sheet
and spread sash openngs unt they
each Measure 3 at ower edge.
Pn n poston.
Trace around a edges of wor ng
soper e cept the ower edge.
Mar notches and granne.
Mar at ower end of granne.
emove wor ng soper.
Draw n an even curve at ower edge
as shown.
Add 1/2 hen aowance at ower
edge and add seam aowance to a
other edges.
E tend granne to ower edge of
pattern.
ut out the pattern.
otch at upper and ower ends of
granne. E tend notches to edges
of pattern.
. _, D..uu :. r
. b U
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S P S EE E
EAD G T E S ET - Ths s a fu
ength seeve wth a pan cap. There
s e tra wdth at the ower edge and
the ower edge s gathered to ft a
wrstband. See step 9 of ths esson
for a descrpton of other types of
bshop seeves.
AT S T E P U EM E tra wdth must
be obtaned at the ower edge by
sashng. A wrstband must be made.
A

ut out a straght seeve soper.

Draw two sash nes each sde of
granne parae to granne and
wthn the notches at the cap of the
seeve.
Sash aong sash nes and aong
granne from ower edge to wthn
1/16 of edge of cap.
Pace wor ng soper on a new sheet
and spread sash openngs unt they
measure about 1 at ower edge.
Pn.
TE: The sash openngs can be spread
to obtan more or ess e tra wdth as
desred and can be spread more n the
front f desred.
Trace around a edges of wor ng
soper.
emove wor ng soper.
Draw n an even curve at ower edge
as shown.
Add seam aowance to a edges.
E tend notches to edge of pattern.
ut out pattern and abe S EE E.
od and crease the pattern n haf
engthwse by brngng the underarm
seams together as shown.
rease aong fod at center of seeves.
TE: The crease w become the
granne n ths partcuar seeve
atho ths method s not a sutabe
one for determnng the granne of
a seeves.
pen pattern.
Draw the granne aong the crease
and notch at both ends.
Draw a 3 ne parae to the
granne, mdway between the under-
arm seamne and the granne as
shown.
otch at ower end of ne.
ote that ths ne s n the bac
porton of the seeve.
t w be used for the seeve
openng.
hng o. 229 est 34 St. ew or 8, . .
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S P S EE E
7
T- DE ED U DE AP
E GT
frr

To ma e a wrstband: a) Draw a rec-
tange 2 wde and the desred f-
nshed ength of the w-rstband.
Mar for notches 1/4 of the tota
dstance from the eft and as shown.
E tend the rght end 1 to aow
for an underap.
b) Draw a ong buttonhoe nar as
foows: 1/2 from upper edge and
1/2 n from eft end as shown.
Mar a pont for button 1/2 from
upper edge and 1/2 n from rght end.
ST
A D
Add seam aowance to a edges.
E tend notches to edge of pattern.
Perforate at button mar and at ends
of buttonhoe mar .
otch both ends of underap ne
as shown.
ut out pattern and abe ST A D.
TE: n the sewng process the notch
on the wrstband w be matched to
the notch at the end of the gran ne
n the seeve.
There s a varety of bshop seeves
To obtan a moderatey gathere
bshop seeve:
a) Use the straght seeve sope
ust as t s wthout any sash
ng. The ower edge of th
soper measures about 12 3/4
and f ths amount s gathere
up to ft the wrst, the seev
w be sghty gathered (abou
1 1/2 to 1 gathers).
b)To obtan Mousng at the bac
wrst, dp the curve of th
ower edge down from 1/2 t
1 more n the bac .
To obtan an e aggerated bsho
seeve:
a) To obtan more funess n th
bac , spread the bac sas
openngs more than the front
b) To obtan b ousng at the bac
wrst, e aggerate the curv
of the ower edge by dppn
the curve down from 1 to 2
more n the bac .
opyrght 1950 May.r Pubshng o. 229 est 34 St. ew or 8. .
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P A TTED S EE E T GAT E ED AP
EAD G T E S ET - The body of the
seeve s pan and s e the ftted
seeve soper. The cap s gathered
wth about 1 1/2 to 1 gathers.
AT S T E P EM E tra wdth and
e tra ength (for gathers) must be ob-
taned n the cap of the seeve wthout
changng the body of the seeve.
ut out a ftted seeve soper.
Draw n the bceps ne (A ) as shown.
Mar pont D at center of bceps ne.
Draw sash nes to pont D from ponts
1 1/2 each sde of granne.
To mt gathers, nar notches on cap
2 1/2 on each sde of granne.
TE: otches must be mar ed on the bo-
dce n a correspondng poston.
umber sectons of the cap as shown.
Separate the cap from the body of
the seeve by cuttng aong bceps
ne.
Separate sectons of cap by sash ng
aong sash nes and aong granne.
Pn body of seeve on new sheet.
E tend granne to the upper edge of
he sheet.
eepng sectons 1 and 4 pont to pont
rtb ponts A and , rase and spread
he sash openngs unt each openng
measures 1 at upper edge.
Pn n poston.
Trace the outsde outne of the wor ng
soper.
emove wor ng soper.
Ma e a smooth even curve at cap of seeve
between notches as shown.
Measure cap between the notches for
mtng gathers and note that the or-
gna dstance of 5 has been ncreased
to about 8 , ma ng about 1 1/2 to 1
gathers. .
Add seam aowance to a edges.
E tend notches to edge of pattern.
ut out pattern.
otch at upper and ower ends of
granne.
Perforate and notch ebow dart.
abe pattern S EE E.
pyrght 960 Mayer Pubshng o. 221 st 34 St. ew or 18, .
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P A TTED S EE E T DA TED AP
EAD G T E S ET - The body of the
seeve s pan e the ftted seeve
soper. There are three darts n the
cap of the seeve about 1 1/2 apart
and about 1 1/4 ong. The cap of the
seeve e tends outward about 1 1/4
and s sghty more fu than the
soper seeve.
AT S T E P EM E tra ength for
e tenson and e tra wdth for darts
must be obtaned n the cap of the
seeve wthout changng the body of
the seeve.
oow steps 2, 3 and 4 same as n
esson 3 wth the foowng e cepton :
spread the sash openngs 3/4 at upper
edge nstead of 1 .
Trace the outsde outne of wor
soper.
Pace a sma mar at upper ends
sash openngs as shown.
emove wor ng soper.
E tend granne to edges of shee
den each dart openng by mar ng
ponts 1/8 on each sde of each mar .
Draw dotted nes between the ponts
across tops of openngs.
rom the center of each dotted ne,
s uare a ne 1 1/4 ong and mar
ponts of darts.
Draw n darts.
TE: The openngs are wdened to de-
crease the amount of ease n the seeve
cap: a darted seeve re ures ess ease.
ose off and pn darts n cap of
seeve.
Trm off cap of seeve eveny.
ut out pattern.
emove pns.
ote the ogs at top of darts.
Trace the pattern on a new shee
Add seam aowance on a edge
E tend notches to edge of patte
ut out pattern.
otch the ends and perforate 1
ponts of a darts.
otch both ends of granne.
abe pattern S EE E.
:opyrght 1950 Mayer Pubshng o 229 est 34 St. ew or 18.
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S P S EE E T GAT E ED AP

5
EAD G T E S ET - The cap of the
seeve s gathered. There s e tra
wdth at the ower edge and the ower
edge s gathered to ft a wrstband.
AT S T E P EM E tra wdth and
ength (for gathers) must be obtaned
n the cap of the seeve. E tra wdth
must be obtaned at the ower edge.
A wrstband must be made.
A P5D E
ut out a straght seeve soper.
Draw n bceps ne A as shown.
Mar pont D at center of bceps
ne.
Draw sash nes to pont D from
ponts 1 1/2 on each sde of gran-
ne.
To mt gathers notch cap of seeve
3 1/2 on each sde of granne.
oow steps 3 and 4 as n esson 3
but use the straght seeve soper as
prepared n step 2 of ths esson.
TE: These steps are done n the
same way whether the straght or ftted
seeve soper s beng used because
the caps of both sopers are dentca.
,

Trace the outsde outne of the

wor ng soper.
emove wor ng soper.
Ma e a smooth even curve at cap of
seeve as shown.
ut out seeve.
Draw two sash nes on each sde of
granne, spacng them eveny as shown.
nsh seeve pattern foowng steps
3 thru 6 as n esson 2.
Ma e wrstband same as n steps 7
and 8 n esson 2.
.shng o. 121 est 3t St. ew or S, . .
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14
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ME S EE E
EAD G T E S ET - Ths s a three-
uarter seeve wth a pan cap. The
seeve s n two sect ons and s seamed
ust beow the ebow. There s e tra
funess whch graduay wdens to a
ma mum where the sectons are seamed
and then the seeve tapers bac to
arm measurement, ust beow the ebow.
AT S T E P EM The ower secton
must be made to ft the arm ust beow
the ebow and to fare out toward the
seam. The upper secton must be
sashed and spread to obtan addtona
funess. The wdths of both sectons
must be matched at the seam edges.
2
To draft the ower secton: Draw a
ne about 12 ong.
Mar the mdpont of the ne.
Draw a crce wth a 2 radus around
the mdpont.
Measure the crcumference of the
crce by curvng a tapemeasure around
t The crcumference w be about
12 .
Ta e the body arm measurement about
3 beow the ebow (n sze 12 that
measurement s about 9 ).
Mar off the beow ebow measurement
on the crce, wth mar s an e ua
dstance from the center ne.
E AMP E: To mar off a 9 measure-
ment on a crce 12 n crcumference,
the mar s woud be 1 1/2 each sde
of center ne.
To ma e the outer edge of the ower
secton: draw another crce by mea-
surng 3 1/2 outsde the frst cr-
ce. Draw straght nes from the md-
pont thru the mar s made n step 3
e tend nes to outer crce.
ut out pattern aong outer crce.
Then cut out shaded porton.
abe granne on center ne as
shown.
TE:- uttng out ths porton of the
crce w enabe the seeve to e
fatter at the underarm.
Pn pattern on new sheet.
Mar for notches on straght nes
an e ua dstance down from the nner
crce as shown.
TE: These straght nes become the
underarm seam.
Measure around the outer curved edge
and record ths measurement (appro -
matey 26 n sze 12.)
TE: Ths s the edge that w be
oned to the upper seeve and there-
fore the upper seeve w be, sashed
and spread unt t measures the sane
(n step 10).
est 36 St. ew or 8. . .
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ME S EE E
Trace around a edges of pattern.
emove pattern.
Draw n granne.
Add seam aowance to a edges.
E tend notches to edges of pattern.
abe pattern E S EE E.
ut out fnsher pattern.
otch at ends of gran ne.
ut out a straght seeve soper.
Measure up 6 from ower edge and
draw a ne whch conforms wth the
ower edge as shown.
ut off shaded porton.
TE: Ths step s necessary to ma e
a shorter ength seeve.
Draw 6 sash nes on eacb sde .of
granne, spacng them eveny as
shown.
Do not sash aong granne.
Sash aong sash nes to wthn
1/16 at edge of seeve cap.
10
Pace wor ng soper on new sheet.
Spread sash openngs e uay unt the curved measure-
ments of the ower edge e uas (e acty) the measurement
of the outer curved edges of the ower seeve (see step 6).
Pn n poston.
11
Trace outsde outne of wor ng soper.
emove wor ng soper.
Draw n a smooth even curve at ower edge as shown.
Draw n granne.
Ada seam aowance to a edges.
E tend notches to edge of pattern.
abe pattern UPPE S EE E.
ut out pattern.
otch ends of granne.
TE: The notch at ower end of granne w match
notch on the outer edge of the ower seeve.
opyrght 960 Mayer Pubshng o. 221 est 34 St. ew or 8. .
G
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EG-0 -MUTT S EE E

EAD G T E S ET - The seeve has

deep gathers around the upper haf of
the seeve cap. The puff of the seeve
cap rses sghty above the end of the
shouder. The seeve s fu at the upper
porton and narrows down to ft snugy
ust beow the ebow.
AT S T E P EM E tra wdth and
e tra heght for gathers mst be obtaned
n the upper porton of the seeve above
the ebow. The ftted seeve soper must
be shortened about 6 1/2 .
ut out a ftted seeve soper.
Measure up 6 1/2 from the ower edge
and draw a curved ne whch paraes
the ower edge as shown.
ut off the 6 1/2 -secton to shorten
the seeve.
Measure 6 down from the cap on
each sde and on the two 6 ponts
wth a straght sash ne.
Mar for notches 4 each sde of
the center cap notch to ocate the
gathers.
Draw parae sash nes 2 each
sde of the center ne as shown.
U D
UT
Sash aong the three sash nes and
aong the granne.
Pace wor ng soper on a new sheet of
paper spacng sash spaces eveny on
each sde of anew center ne. The three
sash openngs shoud be spread e uay
at the cap and there shoud be about a
2 rse n heght at the center ne.
Pn n pace.
Draw a new seeve cap curve as shown.
otce that the upper corners of the two
outer sectons have been cut off by the
new curve. or a sghty hgher puff,
use the contour shown by the upper
bro en ne curve nstead.
Trace the notch mar s.
emove the wor ng soper.
abe center ne G A E
v r Pn Uhnn r.n
, or 18
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PU S EE E
EAD G T E S ET -The seeve s very
short and s gathered at the upper and
ower edges.
AT S T E P EM The straght
seeve soper must be shortened to
about 2 beow the bceps ne. The
seeve must be sashed and spread to
obtan funess for gathers.
ut out a straght seeve soper.
Draw n bceps ne A as shown.
Draw a ne 2 beow bceps ne.
ut of shaded porton.
S

w
Draw 3 sash nes on each sde of
granne. parae to granne as
shown.
ote that the outsde sashes begn
at the notches n the cap of the
seeve.
Mar for notches on ower edge 1 1/2
from underarm seamne as shown.
/

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.
1
2
3
4
5
0
7
S

umber sectons as shown.

Separate sectons by sashng aong
sash nes and aong granne.
/
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T

TT
A

/
/
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T
1 1

1
2
3
4
5
6
7
f
r T
T
T
T
T
T
T

1
1
1

1
1
1
.
Draw a ruer straght ne across a new sheet.
Pace sectons on new sheet, eepng bceps ne of
seeve sectons aong straght ne on sheet and eav-
ng a 1 1/4 parae space between each secton.
Pn sectons n pace.
TE: Ths amount of spread creates about 2 to 1 gathers.
PA E
r-11
T7

v
/
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T

.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
ff

T
1
T
1
T
T
T
1
T
1
T T
1 .
1
1
Draw a ne down the center of the space between sec-
tons 4 and 5.
TE: Ths ne w be the granne of the fnshed
pattern.
t

8
Trace outsde outne of wor ng soper. emove wor ng
soper. Mar pont on granne 1 above upper edge
of seeve. Mar pont D on granne, 1/2 beow ower
edge of seeve.
Ma e a new curve at cap of sewe between notches, anf
pont .
Ma e an even curve at ower edge as shown, passng the
curved ne thru pont D.
E tend notches at ower edge down to curved ne.
ut out pattern.
TE: The seeve has been engthened a tota of 1 1/2
because e tra ength s needed to aow the seeve
to puff.
More ength can be added f desred.
2oDvraht 9S Maver Pubshna o.
M. or t
n w. t A
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PU S EE E
Pn wor ng soper on new sheet and trace a edges.
emove wor ng soper.
Add 1/4 seam aowance to ower edge and add 1/2
seam aowance to a other edges.
E tend notches.
ut out pattern.
otch ends of granne.
abe pattern S EE E.
TE: The ower edge of the seeve s fnshed wth a
bas bndng n the sewng process.
ote that the bndng s narrow (see s etch n bo 1)
and must be sttched n a narrow seam. That s the reason
That s the reason for the 1/4 seam aowance at the
ower edge.
n sewng, the ower edge s gathered between the
notches and the gathers are pued up to the desred
measurement.
Then the bndng s apped.
14
opyrghtng Mayer Pubshng c. 2M ert 3 St. ew Tort . .
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AT PETE PA A
EAD G T E S ET - The nec ne of
the bodce s round e the soper
nec ne.
The coar es amost fat on the
nec ne and on the bodce and s
about 2 1/2 wde.
The ends of the coar are rounded
n front.
r AT S T E P EM The nsde or
ec ne edge of the coar must be
rawn to conform to the bodce
wc ne.
The outsde shape or stye ne of
,he coar must be drawn so that the
:oar s 2 1/2 wde.
Trace around the upper haf of the
front bodce soper wth on
straght edge of sheet.
Trace around upper haf of bac
bodce soper wth the shouder nes
meetng at the nec edge and over-
appng 1/2 at the armhoe edge.
ote that the bac shouder e tends
beyond the front because of the
shouder dart.
3
TE: verappng the shouders 1/2
fattens the nec ne curve sghty
so that the nsde or nec ne edge
of the coar w be sghty fatter
than the nec ne edge of the bodce.
Therefore the coar w ro very
sghty.
r
Mar a pont 2 1/2 down on ne
.nd mar another pont 2 1/2 down on
ne.
onnect the ponts wth a curve that
on forms to the nec edge.
TE: The 2 1/2 measure determnes
he overa wdth of the coar, but
ay vary for a wder or narrower
oar.
ound off the front end of the coar
as shown.
Any stye ne desred can be drawn
n (see nformaton gven n step 9
of ths esson).
abe on coar porton.
ut out coar (shaded porton n
s etch).
8
Pn coar on foded sheet of paper
th on fod edge.
Trace around coar.
Add seam aowance to a edges.
emove wor ng soper.
ut out pattern.
Trace seamnes thru to eft sde of
pattern.
pen pattern.
abe granne on ne and notch
ends of granne.
abe pattern A .
t s tne curvature of the nec edge
and the proper sant of the and
nes whch determne the ay of a
fat coar.
Therefore after the basc form has
been estabshed (see step 2 of ths
esson) any outer edge or stye ne
may be drawn n by varyng the outer
edge and front ends a great varety
of fat coars can be made.
or e ampe, a pan fat coar
wth ponted ends s shown here.
- Pubshng o 221 est 34 St. ew or . .
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AT SA A
EAD G T E S ET - The nec ne of
the bodce s -shaped and cones to a
pont about 5 beow the soper nec ne.
The coar es amost fat on the
nec ne and on the bodce.
t s amost as wde as the shouder
and e tends about 5 down the bac .
AT S T E P UEM The nsde or
nec ne edge of the coar must be
made to conform to the bodce nec ne.
The outsde shape or stye ne must
be drawn so that the coar s 1
narrower than the shouder and so that
t e tends 5 down the bac .
Trace around upper haf of front
bodce soper, wth on straght
edge of sheet.
Trace around upper haf of bac
bodce soper wth the shouder nes
meetng at the nec edge and over-
appng 1/2 at the armhoe edge.
Mar pont A 5 down on ne.
Draw a -shaped nec ne as shown.
TE: n ma ng the coar pattern
the shouder edges of the soper are
not e tended and rased as they are
for the usua -nec ne, because the
coar tsef w cause the garment
to hug the nec edge.
Mar pont 5 down on ne.
S uare a ne from pont across
the bac soper and mar pont .
Mar pont D on shouder ne from
armhoe edge of front soper.
S uare a ne from ne to pont D.
onnect ponts D and A.
E tend ne 1/4 beyond the nec
edge.
Draw the new nec ne edge 1/4 from
the orgna edge, taperng to nothng
at the pont of the coar.
TE: Ths ma es the nec ne edge
of the coar sghty tghter than
the nec ne edge of the bodce and
s necessary to nsure a snug ft for
a ow nec ne.
abe on coar.
ut out coar (shaded porton
s etch).
7
The saor coar s made on a
nec ne.
y the same method, coars can be
made for a varety of ow nec nes.
The bodce nec ne must be estab-
shed and then any outer edge of
stye ne s drawn n.
Pn coar on foded sheet of paper
wth on fod edge of sheet.
Trace around coar.
Add seam aowance to a edges.
emove wor ng soper.
T o o
r ng
ut out pattern.
Trace seamnes thru to eft sde of
pattern.
pen pattern.
abe granne on ne and notch
ends of granne.
abe pattern A .
opyrght 1950 Mayer Pubshng o. 229 est 34 St. ew or 8. . 1
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3
PETE PA A T S G T
EAD G T E S ET - The nec ne of the bodce s round
e the soper nec ne.
The coar stands up from the nec ne and then ros
wer on the bodce.
The coar s about 3 wde (t oo s narrower because
of the stand or ro) and the ends are rounded n the
front.
AT S T E P EM The nsde or nec ne edge of the
coar must be drawn to conform to the bodce nec ne.
The outsde shape or stye ne must be drawn so that
the coar s 3 wde. The front ends must be shaped to
oo e the s etch.
Trace around the upper haf of
the front bodce soper wth the
on the straght edge of sheet.
Drop front nec ne 1/8 at .
Trace around upper haf of bac
bodce soper wth shouder nes
meetng at the nec edge and
appng 2 1/4 at the armhoe edge.
3. T E P P E T E
A STA D :
verappng the shouders
2 1/4 fattens the nec -
ne curve consderaby so
that the nsde or nec -
ne edge of the coar
w be fatter than the
nec ne edge of the bodce.
Therefore the coar w
stand or ro when sewn to
the nec ne of the bodce.
or more ro, overap the
shouders more than 2 1/4
but no more than 2 3/4
for ess ro, overap the
shouders ess than 2 1/4 .
Mar a pont 3 down on ne
and mar another pont 3 down on
ne.
onnect the ponts wth a curve
that conforms to the nec edge.
ound off the front end of the
coar as shown.
TE: nterpret the s etch to de-
termne the shape of the curve.
Any stye ne desred can be drawn
n (see nformaton gven n step 9
of ths esson).
abe on coar porton.
ut out coar (shaded porton n
s etch).
8
Pn coar on foded sheet of paper
wth on fod edge of sheet.
Trace around coar.
Add seam aowance to a edges.
emove wor ng soper.
sde
ut out pattern.
Trace seamnes thru to eft
of pattern.
pen pattern.
abe granne on ne and notch
ends of granne.
a b e 1 pattern A .
Any outer edge or stye ne for a
coar may be drawn n after the
curvature of the nec ne and the
sant of the and nes have
been estabshed (see step 2 n ths
esson).
And because these nes determne
the ro or stand of the coar, a
varety of roed coars can be made
from the foregong nformaton.
See the foowng s etches for a
few e ampes.
Appro mate measurements are gven
n the s etches.
10
oovraht 950 Mayer Pubshng o. 229 est 34 St. ew or 8. . .
G
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ED P TED A
....
EAD G T E S ET - The nec ne of the bodce s round
e the soper nec ne.
The coar stands up from the nec ne and then ros over
on the bodce.
otce that t stands up hgher than the roed Peter Pan
coar dd.
The coar s 3 wde (t oo s narrower because of the
ro or stand) and the ends are ponted n front.
AT S T E EM The coar must be drafted n such a
way that the nec ne edge measures the same as the bodce
nec ne edge but s much straghter.
The straghter the ne of the coar the more the coar
w ro, as e paned n esson S3, o 3.
E EDGE
MEASU EME T
Measure around the front and bac soper nec
and add the measurements together to obtan the
fgure nec edge measurement (about 7 n sze
edges
haf-
12).
S fr

T TA E MEASU EME T
Draw a rectange the ength of the
nec edge and 3 wde.
TE: 3 s the desred wdth of the
coar.
Mar on one end as shown.
abe corners of rectange DE G as
shown.
E EDGE
E tend ne E 1 eyond E.
Draw a straght ne from the end of
the e tended ne to D as shown.
TE: Ths addton ma es a pont at
the front end of the coar.
Dvde ne E nto 3 e ua parts by
drawngs 2 e uay spaced sash nes
parae to .
ut out coar.
8
U t
Sash down sash nes to wthn
1/16 of ne GD.
Pace coar on foded sheet of paper
wth on fod edge of sheet.
Spread each sash openng 1/4 .
Pn n poston.
TE: The effect of the sashes s to
permt the coar to e more faty
on the shouder.
Trace outsde outne.
emove wor ng soper.
Ma e a contnuous ne at upper edge.
Add seam aowance to a edges.
ut out pattern.
Trace seamne thru to eft sde o
paper.
pen pattern.
abe gran ne on ne and notct
ends of gran ne.
abe pattern A .
.-.pyrght 1950 Mayer Pubshng o. 229 t M St. ew or 8. . t
G
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T ED ( E T E) A
EAD G T E S ET - The notched ef-
fect s obtaned by combnng a coar
wth a rever.
The rever s made by turnng bac
the upper corner of the bodce front.
There s a 3/4 e tenson beyond the
center front of the bodce for over-
appng and buttonng the front.
The coar ends at the center front
and s ponted.
The coar ros at the bac .
AT S T E P EM The bodce s
made same as n 7 wth a 3/4 e -
tenson.
The coar must be drafted n such a
way that the nec ne edge s amost
a straght ne and so that the ends
w meet the center front of the
bodce.
t has been shown n the foregong
essons that the straghter the nec -
ne edge of the coar, the more
stand there w be.
A perfecty straght ne coud be
used at the nec ne of the coar
and t woud cause a arge amount of
stand.
urthermore, a reverse curve that s
opposte to the norma nec ne curve
woud cause even more ro or stand.
Therefore the coar s drafted on
a straght ne (hence t w stand)
and a sght reverse curve s added
at the nec ne edge to cause the
bac porton of the coar to ro or
stand even more.
T A D A E E
MEASU EME T
Draw a ne the ength of the front
and bac nec ne measurements of the
soper ( to ) ess 1/8 .
onstruct a rectange ths ength
and the desred wdth (any wdth from
2 1 /4 to 3 .
abe rectange A E as shown.
TE: The coar w oo narrower
n the bac because t w stand
more n the bac .
tfc
E tend ne AE 1/2 beyond E.
Draw a ne from the end of the e -
tended ne to pont to form pont
at front end of coar
TE: To ma e a more or ess ponted
coar, ne AE can be e tended any
desred amount the paper can be
tested on the body to hep udge the
fnshed shape of the pont.
,
To add addtona stand to the bac
porton of the coar, e tend ne
A 1/2 beow .
.Draw the reverse curve as shown.
TE: emember that ne was drawn
1/8 ess than the nec measurement.
Ths curved ne s about 1/8 onger
than ne therefore the fnshed
coar edge w e ua the measurement
of the bodce nec edge.
E P A AT TE: n step 5, ne A
was e tended 1/2 .
That amount s 1/2 the desred stand
of the coar and therefore ths
coar w stand 1 above the nec
edge.
t can be made to stand ess than
that amount by e tendng ne A a
esser amount.
Ths type of coar shoud not be,
made to stand more than 1 1/4 .
A genera rue: E tend ne A 1/2
the desred amount of stand.
The greater the stand, the wder the
coar must be n order to hde the
nec ne seam.
f the desred stand s 1 , the
coar must be at east 2 1/4 wde
so that the coar w ap 1/4 over
the nec ne seam.
A d
8 E AM
abe ne as shown and ndcate
fod on ths ne.
Add seam aowance to a other edges.
abe pattern A .
ut out pattern.
U A T A

TA T EAT
opyrght 960 Mayer Pubshng o. 229 est 34 St. ew or 18, . .
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6
S A A
EAD G T E S ET - The
coar appears to be about 2
wde at the shouder and
tapers to a pont about 5
beow the norma soper nec -
ne.
The coar has about a 1
stand at the shouder and bac .
AT S T E P EM The
coar and bodce must be
made n one pece. The coar
must be made to stand at the
bac and at the shouder. The
shape of the ape must be
nterpreted.
A E
MEASU EME T
Measure the bac soper nee
edge (shoud be about 3 ).
and ar off ths nec edge
measurement on the ne above D.
abe end of measurement E.
S uare a center bac seam-
ne from pont E. ma ng t
about 3 1/2 ong.
TE: Ths w provde a
bac coar wdth of 3 1/2
whch ncudes about a 1
stand.
ut out wor ng soper, and
sash from to D.
Pn on new sheet of paper
wth spread at east 1/4
3/8 to 1/2 for stff fabrcs.
E tend the ape curve up-
ward, mergng t nto ne G
as shown.
Unfod the sheet and draw
the ape curve on the other
sde of the sheet.
E tend ne D to 1/4 be-
yond ape curve, and-mar
end .
S uare a ne from thru .
emove wor ng soper.
E tend outer edge of coar
1/4 and move the ne as
shown. abe D E, . and
.
Add a 1/8 e tenson on ape
:urve for a facng pattern the
facng pattern s the shaded
area.
race the front bodce
soper on a sheet of paper
wth about 3 from the
edge.
Add a 3/4 e tenson at the
front to aow for overap
and buttons.
Mar pont A on the e -
tended front 5 down from
or g na . s oner nec 11 ne
od bac the paper aong
the fod ne and trace the
shape of the ape onto the
foded e tenson.
10
Add seam aowances to a
edges of both patterns. Pn
patterns together.
od coar bac on the fod
ne.
Test on form.
Mar pont D at end of
shouder ne as shown.
E tend shouder ne 1
beyond D and abe end .
be ne A D E .
Draw ne AD e tendng t
to severa nches beyond D.
Mar a pont on the shouder
2 from D.
etween the 2 pont and
pont A, s etch n the de-
sred shape of the ape.
t s easer to vsuaze
ths shape f the pattern s
pnned over the form whe
s etchng n the curve.
er Pubshng o. 121 est 34 St. ow or 18, . .
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A
EAD G T E S ET - The nec ne
f the bodce s round and cose
ttng e the soper nec ne.
The coar s about 1 1/4 wde
and stands up from the nec edge of
he bodce.
AT S T E P EM The coar
must stand up vertcay from the
nec edge of the bodce.
t must be made about 1 1/4 wde
nd the ends must reach the center
front of the bodce.
The bodce must have the usua 3/4
e tenson for buttonng.
E
MEA U ME T
Measure around the front and bac
soper nec edges and add the mea-
surements together to obtan the
haf-fgure nec measurement whch
s about 7 n sze 12.

MEASU EME T
Draw a rectange the ength of the
nec edge and 2 1/2 wde.
Dvde the rectange n haf
engthwse.
TE: 1 1/4 s the desred wdth
of the coar the coar w be
made doube.
D
E
r

abe one end as shown.
ndcate fod on ne.
abe D E as shown.
Add seam aowance to a but
edge.
abe pattern A .
ut out pattern.
To test pattern pace pattern on a
foded pece of musn wth on
fod edge of musn.
ut out musn coar.
Trace n seam nes.
od musn coar n haf
engthwse.
Turn n seam aowance at the ends.
th the ends meetng at the ,
test on the body or on the form.
The seamne at the nec edge
shoud ay fat on the nec of the
dress form or body.
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M TA A D A
EAD G T E S ET - The nec ne
of the bodce s round and cose
fttng e the soper nec ne. The
coar s about 1 1/2 wde. t stands
up and fts snugy around the nec
AT S TfE P EM The coar must
stand up from the nec edge.
t must be narrowed off at the top
n order to hug the nec . The ends
must be rounded and must meet at the
center front.
The bodce must have the usua 3/4
e tenson for buttonng.
r
n EDGE
1EASU E
Measure around the front and bac
soper nec edges and add the measure-
ments together to obtan the haf
fgure nec measurement. Ths measure
s about 7 n sze 12.
E MEASU EME T
Draw a rectange the ength of the
nec edge and 1/2 wde. abe one
end as shown.
E EDGE
ound off the upper pont of the
front end of the coar as shown, by
udgng the desred curve from the
s etch.
ut out wor ng soper.
3 M
E EDGE
Draw three sash nes as shown.
Sash aong sash nes to wthn
1/16 of nec edge.
(
T
T
U

Pn wor ng soper on a foded sheet
of paper wth on fod edge of sheet.
ap the sashed edges 3/16 . Pn n
poston.
TE: The upper edge of the coar
has been made smaer to ft the
smaer crcumference of the nec .
tu
144

fc
U
g
u4

-
8
Trace outsde outne of wor ng
soper.
Add seam aowance to a edges.
emove wor ng soper.
ut out pattern.
Trace seamnes thru to eft sde
of pattern.
pen pattern. abe gran ne on
ne. abe pattern A .
opyrght 9S0 Mayer Pubshng o. est 34 St. ew or , . .
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P TED U T G TTED ST A D
EAD G T E S ET - There s a 3
wde ftted wrstband attached to a
bshop seeve. A 2 wde sghty
fared cuff s attached to the wrst-
band. The ends of the cuff are paced
so that the cuff buttons ust above
the tte fnger.
AT S T E P EM The seeve s
smar to the bshop seeve n esson
2, e cept that t has a wder cuff
and sghty ess bousng at the
wrst. Therefore ths seeve must be
made shorter than the one n 2. oo
bac to esson 2.
Substtute the drectons n the
foowng two bo es for step 2 of that
esson. Then proceed to ma e the
pattern e acty the way t was made
n 2, foowng steps 3 thru 6.
ut out a straght seeve soper.
Measure up 3 from the ower edge
and draw a curve whch conforms wth
the ower edge as shown.
ut off the 3 shaded porton.

Draw four sash nes, two on each

sde of the granne, parae to
the granne eep the sash nes
wthn the space between the notches
at the arrahoe edge.
U DE A M E
To ma e wrstband:
Trace ower porton of a ftted
seeve soper.
Measure up 3 from ower edge and
draw a ne whch conforms to the
ower edge as shown.
Mar off ponts on both ower nes,
1/4 of the tota ength of each ne
n from the bac edge
Draw a ne between the two ponts.
abe sectons front and bac as
shown.
Mar a pont 1/2 from ower edge
on each seamne as shown.
ut off the 3 secton at the ower
edge of the soper.
a) ut aong the penc ne as shown.
b) Pn front and bac sectons on a
sheet of paper wth underarm nes
together and wth the ponts matchng.
Trace around both peces. Mar under-
arm ne.
emove wor ng soper.
1 U DE AP
a 1 e tenson at bac edge for
an underap.
Mar for a notch on ower edge 1
from front end. Add seam aowance to
a edges. E tend notch. abe
ST A D.
ut out pattern.
A
T ,7,r
U DEPAPM 1 E
To ma e cuff
Trace ower porton of a ftted
seeve soper. Measure up 2 from
ower edge and draw a curve whch con-
forms wth the ower edge. Mar off
ponts on both nes 1/4 of the tota
epeat steps 5 and 6 on the cuff,
same as for wrstband.
otch ends of underarm ne.
dstance n from the bac edge.
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P TED U T G TTED ST A D
10
51 AS E
7
Draw a sash ne down center of
of cuff.
ut out wor ng soper.
11
U DEPA M
Sash aong sash ne from the
upper edge to wthn 1/16 of ower
edge.
Pace wor ng soper on new sheet
and spread sash openng 3/8 . Pn.
Trace wor ng soper.
Draw n an even curve across sash
openng. Trace underarm ne.
emove wor ng soper.
E tend upper edge 1 at each end.
Draw a ne from ends of e tended
nes to ower corner.
Mar for a notch on ower edge 1
from front end as shown.
TE: Ths forms the pont of the
cuff. A dfferent shape pont can b
made by e tendng the upper edge mor
or ess than 1 at each end, as desred.
13
14
UTT E
U DE A M
Add seam aowance to a edges.
E tend notch.
Mar for a buttonhoe at each end
of cuff 1/2 n from seamne and
perforate ends of buttonhoe mar .
abe pattern U . ut out pattern.
otch ends of underarm ne.
To test pattern:
Pn ower edge of cuff to ower edge
of wrstband, matchng underarm nes
and notches. Pace cuff around wrst,
appng front end over bac .
TE: n ed buttons shoud be used
wth ths type of cuff.
opyrght 1950 Mayer Pubshng o. 221 est 36 St. ew or S,

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E U
EAD G T E S ET - The cuff s attached
to a bshop seeve and appears to be
about 3 wde. Actuay t s a doube
cuff whch s foded bac on tsef.
Therefore t s twce as wde as t ap-
pears to be. The ends are buttoned and
are paced so that the cuff buttons ust
above the mdde fnger.
AT S T E P EM The seeve s made
the same as the shortened bshop seeve
gven n esson T. The cuff s made
rectanguar n shape.
D E
6
/
DE
y ED E GT
P U 1
.
Draw a rectange the desred ength of
the cuff pus 1 (the aowance needed
for buttonng) and 6 wde (6 s twce
the desred wdth).
Draw a ne thru the center and mar
t fod ne as shown.
Mar for buttonhoes of the de-
sred ength as foows: begn
mar s 1/2 n from the ends of the
cuff and have the mar s mdway be-
tween the fod ne and the ong
edges of the cuff as shown.
D E
Perforate ends of buttonhoe mar s.
Drawagranne parae to fod
ne .
Add seam aowance to a edges.
ut out pattern.
To test pattern: fod cuff aong
fod ne and test on wrst.
TE: n buttons shoud be used
wth ths cuff.
.. 10 fc
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AS SE TTED USE S PE (wth an underarm dart)
EAD G T E S ET - A bouse soper
th an underarm dart s shown. Atho
there s ooseness about the wastne
and the bustne to enabe the wearer
to move freey wthout drawng the
bouse out of the wastband, the amount
of ease s ept to a mnmum. There
re 2 tuc s on each sde of the front
there s ony one wast tuc on each
sde of the bac , there s a bac
shouder dart at each shouder. The
soper e tends about 5 beow the front
rast and about 6 beow the bac wast.
AT S T E P EM The arge wast
dart must be repaced by two fc or
tuc s.
The sdeseam of the bouse must be
made parae or amost parae to
the center edge n order to pace t
appro matey on the granne, (Uness
t s aready so on the wast soper).
The wastne s to be 2 to 3 ooser
than the soper wastne.
TE: avng the sdeseam on the
cranne factates rapd sttchng.
ut out a front bodce soper.
Draw a sash ne from pont of dart
to 2 beow the armhoe. Sash aong
sash ne to wthn 1/16 of pont of
dart.
Sash aong sde of dart nearest the
sdeseam, to wthn 1/16 of pont of
dart. Pvot the ower sde secton as
shown unt the dart spread at the sde
seam measures 1 pn n ths poston.
Pn the wor ng soper on a new sheet
of paper whch measures about 12 by
25 , wth on the straght edge of
sheet.
E tend ower end of sde seam down
-. Mar pont P 1/2 beow the ower
end of center front.
Draw a parae ne 1 away from
and parae to the ower secton of
sde seam and e tend the parae ne
to the bottom of the sheet.
Pace the pont of a ruer at ower end of sde seam
and pvot the ruer unt the 5 mar crosses the parae
ne hodng the ruer n ths poston draw a 5 ng-
rom the end of ths 5 ne, s uare a ne about haf-
way across the front. rom the end of ths s uared ne,
s uare another ne to the center front edge.
emove the wor ng soper.
rom pont P, s uare a 6 ne. Mar ponts on ths
ne at 3 , ft . 1 , respectvey. Draw parae nes
from these ponts down to the ower edge, and to 1 above
the ponts.
To obtan the hp measurement, measure the ower edge
and subtract from t the 1 whch s to be ta en out by
the two 54 tuc s. The fna hp measure shoud be between
9 1/4 and 9 3/4 (for sze 12).
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AS SE TTED USE S PE (wth an underarm dart)
Shorten the sde dart to 3 . od the shortened dart
to the end of the sheet and pn. ut out the front soper
eavng an addtona 1 beow the ower edge, and aow-
ng for seams at the shouder and sde edges.
TE: To ncrease the hpne, the tuc s may be tapered
to ess than beow the wastne for e ampe, f the
tuc s were tapered down to M at the hpne there
woud be an ncrease of 54 on the haf fgure, or a fu
1 on the fu fgure.
n genera t s advsabe to eep the hpne as sma
as possbe to avod havng wrn es vsbe beneath the
s rt.
Trace a bac soper on a sheet of paper measurng about
12 by 28 . pacng the on the straght edge of the
sheet. emove the soper. f the front armhoe was e tends
e tend the bac armhoe the same amount.
Draw a new sde seamne from the armhoe endng t
from the orgna sde seam, and ma ng t 54 onger tha
the orgna sde seam. The new sde seam shoud measure
e acty the same as the correspondng front sde sean
Draw a parae ne 1 from the new sde seamne an
e tend the parae ne to the bottom of the sheet
As n s ep 3, eep the pont of a ruer
at the ower end of the new sde seam and
pvot the ruer unt the 5 mar fas on
the parae ne hodng the ruer n ths
poston, draw a 5 ne. rom the 5 pont,
s uare a ne about hafway across the bac .
rom the hafway end, draw another ne
s uare to the center bac . ound out the
sght ange at the hafway mar .
Draw a new wastne 54 ower than the
orgna. Mar 2 dots ust beow the ends
_2 rpr.tte dart on new wastne. -
Draw a bro en ne thru the mdde of the
wast dart parae to the brngng t
down as far as the ower edge of the pattern.
rom the ower end of ths ne, draw a
connectng ne to each dot.
E tend the ends of the two nes upward
for 1 eepng the 1 e tensons parae
to the ne.
ut out the wor ng soper eavng about
1 of paper beow the ower edge, and aow-
ng 54 seams at the shouder and sde edges.
10
Pn up the dart of front
and bac sopers.
Pn the front and bac
seamnes together.
Test on form.
f possbe test n cot
over the fu form so that
t may drape normay.
se (
opyrght 1950 Mayer Pubshng o.
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AS SE TTED USE S PE (wthout an underarm dart)
EAD G T E S ET - The bouse soper shown n the
s etch s ooser fttng than the soper wth an underarm
dart (see ). Athough t does not ft ute as we as
the bouse soper shown n , t s nevertheess used
ute fre uenty by popuar prce bouse manufacturers as
t s somewhat smper to mass produce.
AT S T E P EM The arge wast dart must be re-
paced by two sma tuc s whch measure from 54 to
apece. The sde seam secton from wast to armhoe must
be paced on the granne (parae to the center front
or center bac ) to factate rapd sttchng. The bust-
ne s made about 1 ooser than the bodce soper and
the wastne s made from 3 to 4 ooser than the bodce
soper. The e act amount of ease afforded w vary for
dfferenty shaped sopers memorzng the measurements s
not very mportant. The student shoud earn the prncpes
nvoved by understandng the reasons for each step.
Trace a front bodce soper.
MP TA T: f the sde seam s parae to the center
front the baance of step 2 may be omtted.
E tend the ower edge of the armhoe out about 54 , curv-
ng t down sghty from the end of ths e tenson draw
a new sde seamne down to the wastne.
See f the new sde seam s parae to the center front.
f t s not parae, draw a sash ne parae to the
e tended sde seam and 1 away from t.
E AP

:
o
rn

A A
MA
ut out the wor ng soper usng the new seamne. Sash
up aong sashne from wastne to wthn 1/16 of arm-
hoe edge. ap the sashed edges unt the sde seam be-
comes parae to the center front, and pn apped edges
n ths poston.
pn the wor ng soper on a new sheet of paper about 12
by 25 wth on straght edge of the sheet.
E tend the sde seam down an addtona t , (to permt
the wearer to rase her arm wthout drawng the wastne
of the bouse out of the s rt too ready). Mar pont P
54 beow ower end of center front.
Trace wor ng soper omttng the dart and wastne.
emove wor ng soper. ound out the hgh spot on the
armhoe curve.
Draw a parae ne 1 from the sde seam e tendng the
parae ne to the ower edge of the sheet. Pace the
pont of a ruer at the ower end of sde seam and pvot
the ruer unt the 5 mar crosses the parae ne
hod ruer n ths poston and draw the 5 ne.
rom the end of the 5 ne, s uare a short ne about
hafway across the front. rom the hafway end of the
s uared ne, s uare another ne to the center front.
ound out the ange at the hafway pont.
opyrght 1950 Mayer Pubshng o. 229 t 34 St. ew or 8, . .
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fc
ut out the front pattern aowng 1 e tra at the ower
edge and aowng 1/2 for seams, at the shouder and sde
edges.
S uare a 6 ne from the edge at pont P. Mar off
ponts of the 6 ne at 3 . 1/2 . 1 . and 1/2 for a
tghter wast ft mar off ponts at 3 . 3/4 . 1 , and 3/4 .
Drop parae nes from the four ponts down to the
ower edge. E tend the nes upward for 1 above the ponts.
Trace a bac soper on a sheet of paper measurng about
12 by 28 . wth the on the straght edge of the sheet.
emove the soper.
f the front armhoe was e tended, e tend the bac arm-
hoe the same amount. Draw a new sde seamne wth ts
ower edge 1/2 out from the orgna sde seam end, and
1/2 onger than the orgna sde seam, (shoud measure
e acty the same as the front seamne).
Draw a parae ne 1 from the new sde seamne and
e tend the parae ne to the bottom of the sheet.
8
y
As n step 4, pace the pont of the ruer at ower end
of new sde seam pvot the ruer unt the 5 mar crosses
the parae ne and draw the 5 ne.
Prom the end of the 5 ne s uare a short ne about
hafway across the bac . rom the hafway end of the
s uared ne, s uare another ne to the center bac .
ound but the sght ange at the hafway mar .
Draw a new wastne 1/2 ower than the orgna.
Mar 2 dots ust beow the darts ends.
Draw a bro en ne thru the mdde of the wastdart
parae to the brngng t down as far as the ower
edge of the pattern. rom the ower end of ths ne, draw
a connectng ne to each dot. E tend the ends of the two
nes upward for 1 eepng the 1 e tensons parae to
the ne.
ut out the wor ng soper eavng about 1 of paper
beow theower edge, and aowng (A seams at the shouders
and sdeseams.
9 Pn up the darts of front and bac sopers. Pn the front and bac seamnes together. Test on form. f possbe,
test the soper n coth over the fu form (the haf form w not permt t to drape normay).
opyrght 1950 Mayer Pubshng o. 121 est 34 St. ew or 8. .
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S MP E USE T T E A
S U DE -
PAD
A A E
.
EAD G T E S ET -The bouse buttons
at the front. There are two wast tuc s
on each sde of the front. The bac has
a shouder dart and a wast tuc . The
bouse has a te coar (band coar
and te ends made n one pece). The
seeves are short wth a pan cuff.
AT S T E P EM The bouse front
nust be made wth an e tenson for
buttonng the front, shouder pad aow-
ances must be made on front, bac , and
seeve. A pan cuff must be made. A
front facng and a bac facng must be
nade. The te coar must be made.
Trace a bouse front soper wthout
an underarm dart, (see esson 2), on
a sheet of paper wth severa nches
from straght edge of sheet.
Add a 3/4 e tenson at front edge
for buttonng.
Space buttonhoes eveny, havng the
top one 3 down from the nec edge and
the ower one 1 above the wastne.
Add shouder pad aowance
esson 4).
Mar for a notch (to be used for
onng te coar) on nec edge 1
as shown.
Mar for a notch on sde edge 4
down from armhoe.
Add seam aowance to a edges.
Draw gran ne parae to .
E tend notches and tuc nes to
edges of pattern.
Perforate ends of buttonhoe mar s.
Mar wast tuc s for perforatons
and notches as shown.
abe pattern USE T.
ut out pattern.
T
A G
.
To ma e a front facng:
Trace the shouder, nec , front and
ower edges of the fnshed USE
T pattern.
Trace n seamnes and mar the
coar pacement notch at nec edge.
Draw the remanng edge as shown
usng the measurements gven n the
s etch.
Mar granne parae to center
front edge.
abe pattern T A G.
ut out pattern.
-

(S U DE
PAD
A E
Trace the bac bouse soper on a
sheet of paper wth on straght
edge of sheet.
Add shouder pad aowance as on the
sde edge 4 down from armhoe.
Add seam aowance to a edges.
E tend notches to edge of pattern.
E tend shouder dart nes to edge of
pattern.
Mar wast dart for perforatons and
notches as shown.
ndcate fod on .
abe pattern USE A .
ut out pattern.
yer Pubshng o. 229 est 34 St. ew or 18, . .
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S MP E USE T T E A
1
To ma e a bac facng:
Trace , nec and
shouder edges of fnshed
USE A pattern.
Trace n the seam nes.
Ma e a 2 facng as
shown.
ndcate fod on .
abe pattern A
A G.
ut out pattern.
/-

E
t DGE
EDGE
E
ESS
To ma e a te coar: draw a rectange 20
D y f, / ,
abe on one end as shown.
Mar off the bac nec edge measurement of
the soper ths ne w meet the shouder
of the bouse.
Then mar off the front nec edge measure-
ment of the soper, ess 1 .
TE: Ths s the porton of the te coar
that w sew to the bouse.
The remander s used to te the bow at the
center front.
The te coar sews to the bouse ony as
far as the front nec ne notch, (see step 3),
n order to eave space for the bow tsef.
5 U DE
T E AP
Add seam aowance to a but edge
otch on edges.
ndcate fod on .
abe pattern T E A .
ut out pattern.
TE: n the sewng process the front UUE
must be foded n haf engthwse and sttched
as far as the frst notch.
Then the ends must be turned rght sde out
The remanng edges must be oned to the
bouse as far as the notch whch s 1/21 over
from the ne.
ens
S U DE PAD
A A E
E TE D
E E
E U ED
,4-
Trace a ftted seeve sbper.
tracng the underarm nes for
ony 4
onnect ends of underarm ne wth
a straght ne.
Add shouder pad aowance (see
esson 4).
f the armhoe curve was e tended
(see esson 2, steps 2 and 6), e -
tend the seeve cap correspondng
amounts at front and bac as shown.
11
12
-15-
Mar for a notch on ower edge 2
n from front underarm seamne.
Add seam aowance to a edges.
E tend notches to edges of pattern.
E tend granne to edges of
pattern.
ut out pattern.
otch ends of granne.
abe pattern S EE E.
To ma e the cuff
Draw a rectange about 15 ong and
e acty 4 1/2 wde.
ut out the rectange.
13
od rectange n haf engthwse.
Pace fnshed seeve pattern over
foded rectange wth cut edges of paper
even wth ower edge of seeve.
Trace n seamnes and granne of
pattern.
ut off ends of foded rectange even
wth edge of pattern.
ut out notches.
14

1
z U
f
/
A
, ,, , -
pen pattern.
abe pattern U .
opyrght 1950 Meyer Pubshng o. 229 est 36 St. ew or
18. .
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,
UTT A USE T T TU G
EAD G T E S ET - The bouse has
two 3/8 tuc s on each sde of the
center front, spaced about 3/4 apart.
The tuc s are sttched on the outsde
and pressed toward the sde. The bouse
buttons at the bac . There s a roed
ponted coar and short seeves, shaped
wth a peat.
AT S T E P EM The bouse front
must be made wth aowance for tuc s.
An e tenson for buttonng must be added
to the bac and an aowance made for
a sef facng at the bac edge. Shouder
pad aowance must be made on the front
.bac and seeve.

: /SS:: :c-:- --
Use a sheet of paper severa nches
onger than the front bouse soper.
Mar on one ong edge.
Draw tuc nes usng the measure-
ments gven n the s etch ma e two
sod nes and two bro en nes as
shown.
TE: The bro en nes represent the
fod nes.
S U DE
1 AD
A A E
rease aong the sod ne nearest
the and brng the crease to the
nearest bro en ne. Pn n poston.
rease remanng tuc n same manner.
Pace bouse soper wthout an under-
arm dart, (see esson 2), over tuc ed
paper wth P on straght edge of sheet.
Trace bouse soper, mar ng n the
wast tuc s. emove soper.
Add shouder pad aowance. Add seam
aowance to a edges e cept center
front.
E tend notches and wast tuc nes
to edges of pattern, ndcate fodon .
ut out pattern.
A A E
P SE
A 1 G
Unpn tuc s and open pattern. otch
at upper and ower ends of tuc nes
and fod aong nes.
otch and perforate ends of wast
tuc s. abe pattern USE T.
Trace a bac bouse soper on a sheet
of paper wth severa nches from
straght edge of sheet. Add shouder
pad aowance s usua manner. Add a
3/4 e tenson at for buttonng. Add
an addtona e tenson about 2 1/2
wde for a facng. ut aong ths
facng ne.
onvraht fS0 Mayer Pubshng o. 229 est 34 St. ew or 18 . .
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UTT A USE T T TU
od under the sef facng aowances
aong the button e tenson ne. Add
seam aowance to a remanng edges.
Mar darts for notches and perforatons
as shown. Mar uttonhoes n usua
manner havng the top one 1/2 beow
seamne at nec edge and the owest
one 1 above the wastne space eveny.
ut out pattern, wth facng foded
under. otch both ends of ne wth
facng st foded. abe pattern
USE A .
Ma e a roed ponted coar,
steps 1 thru 4 n esson S3.
11
12
Trm off some of the front f wde
ponts are desred. The bac ends w
spread automatcay. ut out the coar
(shaded porton).
Trace coar on new sheet of paper.
otch at shouder ne. Add seam aow-
ance to a edges. ut out pattern.
abe pattern A . TE n sewng,
the notch at the nec edge of the coar
must be paced at the shouder seam of
the bodce. The raw edge of the coar
must be fnshed wth a bas facng.
5 U DE
PAD
A A U
Trace a straght seeve soper. tra
ng the underarm seamnes down ony 3
onnect the ends of the underarm sea
nes wth a straght ne. Add a /
tenson to each underarm seamne
hown. Add shouder pad aowance.
15
Add seam aowance to aU edges and
e tend notches. E tend granne to
edges of pattern.
Draw two 3 parae peat nes 1
on each sde of granne as shown.
Mar for perforatons at upper ends of
peat nes and on granne. Mar for
notches on ower end of peat nes.
ut out pattern. abe pattern S EE E.
TE: n sewng the two outer peat
nes must be creased and brought to
the granne, thus formng a peat.
The peat must be top-sttched as far
as the perforaton.
opyrght 9S Mayer Pubshng
229 est 34 St.
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3
S T SP T USE T E

3
EAD G T E S ET - The bouse but-
tons down the front. There are gathers
t the yo e nes of both front and bac .
fhe yo e e tends down about 1 1/2 from
the top of the shouder n front and
about 3 1/2 down from the shouder n
the bac . There s no seam at the shouder.
There s a roed ponted coar and
short tuc ed seeves.
AT S T E P 1 M uness must be
sbtaned for gathers at the yo enes.
The front yo e and bac yo e must be
combned to emnate the shouder seam.
5 U DE
Trace a bouse tront soper (wtn an
underarm dart). Add shouder pad aow-
ance (see 3). ut out soper.
Draw a yo ene 1/2 down from
shouder ne and parae to t. To
mt gathers, mar notches 3/4 from
each end of ths ne. Draw 2 sash
nes from the yo ene to the pont of
the dart as shown. ut off yo e.
TE: Savetheyo e porton as t w
be needed ater.
Sash aong sash nes to wthn
1/16 of pont of dart.
ose off and pn underarm dart.
Pn wor ng soper on new sheet wth
severa nches away from straght
edge of sheet. Pn the center sashed
secton so that the spaces on each sde
of t are e ua n wrth.
r
o
Trace outsde edges of wor ng soper
wth about 5 from edge of paper.
Mar for notches and wast tuc s. e-
move wor ng soper.
Draw a smooth even curve for the yo e
seam between notches f necessary,
draw curve sghty above or beo
bro en nes to ma e an even curve.
Add a 3/4 e tenson at to aow
for buttonng. Add an addtona e ten-
son about 2 1/2 wde for a sef fac-
ng. ut aong the facng ne.
od under aong the button e tets on
ne. Add seam aowances to a re-
manng edges. E tend notches to new
edges.
ut out the pattern wth the facng
aowance st foded under. Match at
each end of the ne wth facng
st foded. abe pattern T. Mar
for eveny spaced buttonhoes aong tne
ne between the nec and the wast-
ne. (The wastband s 5 from the
ower edge.)
5 U D P PAD
A A E
Trace a bac bouse soper on a new
sheet of paper. od and pn shouder
dart to the upper end of the sheet.
Add same shouder pad aowance as on
the front. ut out wor ng soper usng
the rased shouder ne.
opyrght 1950 Mayer Pubshng o. 229 est 34 St. ew or 8. . .
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S T SP T USE T E
Unpn tfe shouder dart. Mar a
pont 31/2 down on armhoe. S uare
a yo ene from thru the 3 1/2
pont.
ocate the gathers wth notches
paced about 2 1/2 apart, drecty
over the shouder bade area. (Ths
s a matter of nterpretaton).
ut out the wor ng soper. Mar
fod.
8
T
E
U
a) ut off the yo e. ower thedart to the yo ene.
b) od out and pn the owered dart, pn yo e
on new sheet of paper wth on straght edge of
new sheet. Straghten ower edge of yo e as shown.
Trace the remanng outer edges of the yo e pece.
c) pn front yo e shouder edge so that t e -
acty matches bac yo e shouder edge, (the edges
shoud be e ua n ength). Trace outsde edges
of the patterns. Trace the shouder ne. TE
The shouder seam has been emnated.
d) emove wor ng soper. Add seam aowances
to a edges and e tend notches. abe and notch
ends of the shouder ne. Mar D. ut out
and abe pattern E.
T M f r
Measure or trace the sme tr-
ange that was added n step 7b n
straghtenng the yo e. Mar off
the same sze tranguar pece on
the upper edge of the ower bac
secton.
E tend the notch across the tr-
ange. Trm off trange.
Draw a sash ne cose to each
sde of the bac wast dart and
wthn the notches, as shown. Sash
aong the sash nes.
10
-n
SP EAD
Pn ower secton wth on straght
edge of a new sheet. Spread sashes
e uay unt the dstance between
notches ncreases by one haf (or doube
dstance for fuer gatherng).
Trace outsde outne of wor ng
soper. Trace wast dart.
11
emove wor ng soper. Draw an even
curve at yo ene edge.
Add seam aowance to a edges and
e tend notches. Mar D on . abe
pattern D E A .
ut out pattern. otch and perforate
wast tuc as shown.
12
Ma e a short seeve same as n esson 2.
steps 12 and 13.
The peat nes shoud be omtted.
Ma e a roed ponted coar same as
n esson S4.
7
opyrght 1950 Mayer Pubshng o. 121 t 34 St. ew or S. .
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USE T DEEP UTT ED E
EAD G T E S ET - The bouse has
a deep front yo e wth a buttoned
openng.
There are gathers beow the yo e.
The bshop seeve has buttoned
wrstbands.
AT S T E P EM The yo e must
be made wth an e tenson for button-
ng.
Gathers must be made at the yo e ne.
Trace a front bouse soper (wth
an underarm dart). Add shouder pad
aowance (as n esson 4). ut out
the soper.
rom a pont 3)4 beow soper nec -
ne, s uare a yo e ne from the center
front to the armhoe.
To ocate the gathers, mar notches
ust above the fuest part of the
bust. ut off yo e (shaded porton).
Mar on yo e.
Draw a sash ne from yo ene to
pont of underarm dart and sash aong
ths ne. ose off and pn the under-
arm dart.
Pn the wor ng soper on the fod
edge of a doube foded sheet of paper.
Trace outsde outne of wor ng
soper. Trace n wast tuc s.
emove wor ng soper.
Ma e a smooth even curve at
yo ene edge between notches.
Add seam aowances to a edges
and e tend notches.
Pn both sdes of the doubed
sheet together, pnnng a
around the edges of the pattern.
Trace the seamnes, notches,
tuc s, and darts on to the other
sde of the pattern .
ut out the pattern and unfod t.
otch the pattern on a notch mar s.
Mar perforatons on a perforaton mar s.
abe pattern T.
Pn yo e on new sheet of paper
wth about 7 from straght
edge of sheet. Trace outsde
outne of yo e porton of
wor ng soper. emove the soper.
Add a 3/4 e tenson at the
front edge of buttonng. od
the paper under aong the e -
tenson ne.
Add seam aowances to a
remanng edges (e cept fod
edge) and e tend notches.
9S0 Mav r Pubshna o. m 1A
.w or
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USE T DEEP UTT ED E
ut out the pattern and unfod t.
otch ends of center front and e tenson
nes.
Draw n seamne at nec and ower
edges of facng.
Ma e facng 2 wde at top and at
bottom. on top and bottom of facng
wth a straght ne. ut off the e -
cess (shaded porton) aong the straght
ne.
ar pacement of buttonhoes. abe
pattern G T E
8
Trace the G T E on a new sheet
of paper compete wth a mar ngs and
cut t out. emove the G T E.
Trace a mar ngs on to the other
sde of the new sheet of paper.
ut out the pattern and abe t
E T E.
Trace a bac soper wth the on the
fod edge of a doubed sheet of paper.
od the shouder dart and add shouder
pad aowance (same amount as on front).
Add seam aowances to a edges e cept
fod edge.
Unfod the shouder dart. Trace the
seamnes and a mar ngs on to under
haf of sheet, pn a around the edges
of the pattern to under haf of sheet.
ut out the pattern through the doubed
sheet and unfod t.
Perforate at perforaton mar ngs.
otch ends of ne. E tend shouder
dart ne to edges of shouder. otcb
ends of shouder darts and wast tuc s.
Mar . abe pattern A .
11.
A
E A G
Ma e a bac nec fac-
ng by tracng the upper
porton of the bouse
bac whch was made n
esson .
Ma e the facng 2 wde
as usua.
abe t A E
A G.
1
Trace a straght seeve soper. Add
shouder pad aowance (see esson 3).
E tend the armhoe edges 1/4 beyond
the underarm seamnes and draw corrected
sde seamnes as shown.
TE: Ths e tenson must be added to
every seeve that s used wth a bouse
pattern because a 1/4 e tenson was
added to the underarm edge of the bouse
soper tsef.
ontnue ma ng the seeve and wrst-
band same as n esson 2. steps 2 thru 9.
174
opyrght 0 Mayer Pubshng o. 229 est U St. ew or 8, .
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UTT T D ESS T ASS MET S G
1
A A G T E P EM-The nec ne
must be dropped aoout beow the
soper nec ne.
The button front cosng and over-
ap must be provded for.
The pont of the cosng on the
eft bodce front must be s etched
n to nterpret the stye. Part of
me wast dart must be transferred
to a sde seam dart and the remander
converted to two 4 wastne darts.
Two unpressed peats must be
paced n the front s rt to match
the bodce darts.
The oac wast dart must ue
suortened to a 4 tuc .
The bac s rt dart must be con-
verted to a fare.
5 U DE
PAD
M A E
Trace a front bodce soper on
a foded sheet of paper wth on
fod edge of sheet.
Add shouder pad aowance.
Draw two 4 sash nes for tuc s,
1/2 from each sde of each dart
ne as shown.
Draw a sash ne for underarm
dart as shown.
ut out wor ng soper.
pen pattern and draw n ne.
Mar pont A on 1/2 down from nec
edge. Mar pont on wastne 1 over from .
egnnng at pont on nec edge about 2
from A, draw curved nes A and , study-
ng the s etch for the desred shape and
pacement of the pont.
ut aong stye nes thru A and and
down to .
Sash aong 4 tuc nes and contnue
sashng to wthn 1/16 of dart pont.
Sash for underarm dart to wthn 1/16
of dart pont.
ose off and pn of the wast dart.
Pace wor ng soper on new sheet. Spread
the tuc openngs e uay and pn wor ng
soper n poston.
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UTT T D ESS T ASS MET S G
Shorten underarm dart 1 1/2 .
Trace outsde outne of wor ng
soper.
Trace tuc nes up to the 4 eve.
Add seam aowance to front, nec ,
shouder and armhoe edges.
emove wor ng soper.
od and pn n tuc s down to the
edge of the sheet.
od and pn underarm dart.
Add seam aowance to sde and wast-
ne edges.
ut out pattern.
Unpn tuc s and darts. otch ends
of ne. otch and perforate dart
and tuc s as shown. abe granne
on ne.
Draw a dotted ne for the top
sttchng 2 from seamne at front
and nec edges. Perforate aong ths
ne, pacng one perforaton e acty
at the pont.
Mar for buttonhoe as shown. abe
pattern G T T.
8
Trace the wor ng soper on ts wrong sde n order to ma e a eft front,
but trace ony as far as the center front ne.
Add a - e tenson at the center front for an underap.
Trace the seamnes as we as the outer edges, and add a seam aowance
to the underap e tenson.
abe the pattern E T T.
ut out the pattern.
To ma e front s rt:
Use a sheet of paper severa nc
onger than the front s rt soper.
Draw a parae ne 3 1/2 from one
straght edge. abe ths ne
Dfaw peat nes (for unpress
peats) usng the measurements gr
n the drawng.
Shade the peat spaces.
e
sed

opyrght 1950 Mayer Pubshno, o. 229 est 34 St. ew or 8, .

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UTT T D ESS T ASS M T S G
rease on peat ne nearest and
brng crease to the ne t peat ne.
Pn. rease and pn remanng peat n
same manner.
Pn the dartess front s rt soper
wth of soper on ne of foded
paper. Trace and remove soper.
Draw a parae ne 1 over from
as _shown. abe ths ne fod ne .
11
n onng a bodce and a s rt to
form a compete dress, t s necessary
to match a vertca stye nes and
darts. n ths desgn, for e ampe,
the tuc s n the bodce front must
meet the peats n the s rt front
the tuc n the bodce bac must
meet the dart n the s rt.
Therefore measurements used for
pacng stye nes n the bodce
must be repeated accuratey n the
s rt.
The sde seamnes of the bodce
and s rt must meet perfecty at the
wastne. Ths shoud be no probem
for when the soper was made, these
nes were chec ed so that they
woud meet.
12
1G T T

,

:
1
1
1

1
M

T
T
1
T

-n

1

2
T
m
T

1
od and pn the tuc s n the G T
T D E.
Pace the bodce above the s rt
(wth the peats st pnned n) and
chec to see that the stye nes
match perfecty. They shoud, because
the frst tuc n the bodce begns
2 1/2 over from the and the ne t
tuc begns 1 over from the frst.
These same measurements were repeated
n step 10, n drawng the peat
nes of the s rt.
The 2 1/2 space n front of the fod ne s to be
used for a sef facng. rease aong fod ne and turn
sef facng to nsde. E tend wastne and ower edge
over to fod ne.
Add seam aowance to wastne and sde edge and add
hem aowance to ower edge. ut out pattern.
Unpn peats and open pattern. Draw nseamne and hem-
ne across peat spaces and across front facng. abe
granne on fod ne. Draw buttonhoes n usua manner
pace top one about 2 beow wastne and pace bottom
one about 5 above hemne. otch upper ends of peat
nes notch upper and ower ends of ne and of fod
ne.
abe pattern S T T.
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UTT T D ESS T ASS MET S G
15
Trace a bac
bodce soper on a
sheet of paper
wth on straght
edge of sheet.
Add shouder pad
aowance. g
ndcate fod
on .
Add seam aow-
ance to a edges
and e tend notches.
ut out pattern.
16
Perforate on
wast dart nes
4 up from wastne.
TE: n sewng,
the dart ne w
be sttched ony
as far as the per-
f orat on, thus
formng a tuc .
otch and per-
forate shouder
dart.
otch tuc nes
at wastne.
abe pattern
SA D E.
19
.S U DE f
PAD A A E
Trace a ftted seeve soper, tracng
underarm nes down ony 3 . onnect
ends of underarm nes wth a ruer
straght ne. Add shouder pad aow-
ance. To aow for ahem, draw a parae
ne 1 1/2 beow ower edge of seeve
and cut aong ths ne.
17
To ma e a s rt bac :
Trace abac s rt soper on a sheet
of paper wth severa nches from
straght edge of sheet.
Draw granne parae to . Add
hem aowance to ower edge and add
seam aowance to a other edges.
E tend notches. Mar for 2 notches on
seam ne.
20,
rease aong ower edge of seeve
and turn hem to nsde.
Add seam aowance to a edges and
e tend notches.
ut out pattern.
S
ut out pattern. otch and perforate
wast dart. abe pattern S T A .
TE: The tuc n the bodce shoud
match the dart n the s rt at the
wastne because these nes were
matched n the sopers when they
were made.
21
pen pattern.
E tend granne to edges of pattern
and notch ends of granne.
abe pattern S EE E.
c
23
To ma e bet:
Draw a rectange 3 1/2 wde and 7
onger than the desred wast measure.
ut out pattern and abe E T.
TE: A bet pattern shoud be twce
the desred wdth of the fnshed
bet pus 1 for seam aowance.
Therefore, ths pattern w ma e a
bet 1 1/4 wde when fnshed.
As usua the pattern shoud be
pnned together very carefuy and
chec ed to see that a stye nes
match, and that a seams and notches
meet each other propery.
t shoud be tested on the mode
form or on the body for perfecton
of ft.
Ma e 3 wde facngs n the usua manner by tracng the front and nec
edges of the G T T D E, E T T D E, and D E A .
ave the granne on the facngs same as the granne on the pattern
pece t was cut from.
opyrght 1950 Mayer Pubshng o. 229 est 34 St. ew or 18. . .
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E T A P ESS E D ESS
2
EAD G T E S ET - The
nec ne s round e the
soper nec ne.
There s no wastne seam.
There are three sectons of
the front and three of the
bac .
AT S T E P EM -The
s rt and bodce sectons
must be combned to emnate
the wastne seam wthout
serousy affectng the wast-
ne ft.
TE: To do ths t s very
mportant that bodce and
s rt sopers match at the
wastne edges.
See esson 3.
ut out a darted front s rt soper.
Mar a pont on ower edge 4 1/2
from .
Draw a ne from the pont of the
dart to the 4 1/2 pont at the ower
edge.
Mar for two notches at the pont of
the dart.
umber sectons 3 and 4 as shown.
ut out dart and cut aong ne to
ower edge.
ut out a front bodce soper.
Draw a ne from the pont of the
dart to the mdde of the shouder.
Mar for a notch on ths ne 3 up
from the pont of the dart.
Mar for notches on dart nes 3
down from pont of dart.
umber sectons 1 and 2 as shown.
ut out dart and cut aong ne to
center of shouder.
Pace sectons 1 and 3 on a new
sheet wth center front edges on
straght edge of sheet.
Ad ust sectons unt the upper
eft hand corner of the s rt touches
the ower eft hand corner of the
bodce.
Pn n poston.
TE: There may be a sma gap at the
center front between the two wast-
ne edges. Ths gap may be gnored
f t does not e ceed 1/4 . f t s
more than that amount the sopers may
be ncorrect or the probem may re-
ure ndvdua fttng. ndvdua
fttng may be accompshed by drapng
the pattern n musn and correctng
t. Then the corrected musn pattern
s transferred to paper.
Pn sectons 2 and 4 down wth
wastne corners matchng as shown.
Draw a smooth even curve on the o. 2
secton between the notches, curvng
out to 1/16 beyond the bust pont.
Mar ease between the notches be-
cause the edge w now ease-n to
: the correspondng edge of the center
sect on.
r Pnh h nn n
M. /r n M
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E T A P ESS E D ESS
Draw granne n sde secton by
s uarng a ne to the wastne.
E tend ower edges 1 1/2 beyond
the seamnes.
Add fare by drawng nes from the
end of the e tended nes to the
notches.
Trace remanng outsde outnes of
wor ng soper.
emove wor ng soper.
TE: Any desred amount of fare may
be added at the seamnes. 1 1/2 s
a mnmum.
Add a 2 hem aowance at ower
edges and add seam aowance to re-
manng edges.
Mar for a notch at sde edge 5
above wastne.
E tend remanng notches to edge of
pattern.
ndcate fod on center ne.
abe pattern peces E TE T
A D S DE T.
ut out the two sectons.
TE: The notches on the sde edge
are paced so that they can be used
as a gude for eavng a eft sde
openng for a 12 zpper.
ut out a bac bodce
soper.
Draw a sghty curved
ne between the ponts of
the darts the curve shoud
be not more than 1/8 deep
and shoud fow smoothy
nto the dart s des nearest
the .
The e act contour of the
curve shoud be the same
as that of the tape measure
n esson A3, o 8.
umber sectons 1 and 2
as shown.
ut out darts and cut
aong ne between darts.
ut out a bac s rt
soper.
Mar a pont at ower
edge 4 1/2 from .
Draw a ne from the
pont of the dart to the
4 1/2 pont at the ower
edge.
Mar for 3 notches at
pont of dart.
umber secton 3 and 4.
ut out dart and cut
aong ne to ower edge.
opyrght 960 Mayer Pubshn
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E T A P ESS E D ESS
9
/U
Pace sectons 1 and 3 on
a new sheet wth edges
on straght edge of sheet.
Ad ust sectons unt the
upper sde seam end of the
s rt touches the ower
sde seam end of the bodce.
Pn n poston.
Pn sectons 2 and 4 down
wth both ends of wastne
matchng as shown.
Draw a smooth even curve
on the bodce secton curv-
ng out to 1/8 beyond the
wor ng soper about mdway
between the notches.
Mar ease-n between
the notches.
10
epeat steps 5 and 6 same:
as for the front.
abe peces E TE A
SE T and S DE A SE T .
E TE
A 1
SE T
S DE
A
SE T 1
T
A G
a e a 2 wde T
A G by tracng the upper
porton of the fnshed
E TE T SE T .
ndcate fod on .
12
Trace the upper porton
D,
EDGE,

S EET:
fnshed E TE
A SE T on a foded sheet of paper wth
on fod edge of sheet.
Ma e the facng usng the measurements gven
n the s etch.
Trace seamne thru to eft sde of pattern.
ut out pattern.
15
down
A
A G-
pen pattern. Draw n ne.
Ma e a perforaton on ne 5
from seamne at nec edge.
otch nec edge at .
The s to be used as a granne.
abe pattern A A G.
TE: The perforaton s needed n the
sewng process to ma e a st openng
at the bac . See esson.G3 for method
of sewng ths tvpe of openng.
- t s very mportant to test the prncess-ne pattern n musn because t s probabe that sma ad ustments w
have to be made n the pattern. hec bac to bo es 4 and 9 and notce the sma gaps between the wastne edges.
These gaps may ma e sma ad ustments necessary. n addton to that, t s more dffcut to have a perfect fttng
prncess garment because there s no wastne seam to ad n fttng. owever, a of the probems may be handed by
ndvdua fttng, f the pattern s to be used for a custom-ftted garment. The pattern, as descrbed, however, w
be ute satsfactory for manufacturng purposes.
opyrght 1950 Mayer Pubshng o. 229 est 34 St. ew or 18, . .
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D ESS T M D SE T
EAD G T E S ET - The s etch shows a dress
wth a cosed mdrff secton. The mdrff s
about 4 wde at the center and about 2 wde
at the sdes. The boat (bateau) nec ne has been
ta en up n esson G. The seeves and s rt
are conventona and have aso been shown
prevousy.
AT S T E P EM The wast and the s rt
must be oned n one pece wthout usng a
wastne seam. Seamnes must be made nstead,
at the upper and ower edges of the mdrff.
uness must be provded for. gathers n the
bodce secton beow the bust. The mdrff must
aso be made at the bac .
TE: t s recommended that ths pattern be
test ftted n musn before usng reguar
matera as t s fary dffcut to ft spe-
ca care s re ured n fttng the hour-
gass type of fgure, that s, sma-wasted
n reaton to bustne and hpne.
o
Trace a front bodce and
a matchng dartess front
s rt soper. od and pn
out the bodce dart.
n each soper, s etch n
one haf of the mdrff sec-
ton, 2 wde at the front
edges and 1 wde at the
sde edges. The curve s
s etched n freehand as
gracefuy as possbe.
TE: The mdrff dmen-
sons may be vared accordng
to taste. Those measure-
ments gven w provde a
4 1/4 wdth at the front
and a 2 wdth at the sde
seams.
Mar for 2 of gathers beow the bust by pacng a notch
mar 1 each sde of the upper dart crease.
Mar for a notch on the ower seamne about mdway be-
tween front and sde seam.
ut song the two curved seamnes.
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D ESS T M D SE T
Pn the mdrff sectons as shown wth the front ends
meetng e acty and wth sde ends amost meetng .
ue a straght ne at the center front to emnate the
sght ange.
ase the upper curve about 1/8 to ma e t cross the
center front at a rght ange. ower the ower curve about
1/8 to ma e t cross the center front at a rght ange.
Draw the sde seamne of the mdrff roundng out the
sght ange at the wastne.
TE: The wastne has become sghty arger as ths
type of garment cannot be snugy ftted about the wast,
ndvdua fttng of the wastne may be needed for some
persons.
Trace the upper and ower edges of the wor ng soper
Trace the notches.
emove the wor ng soper. Mar center ne D. Ad
usua seam aowances at a seamnes (center front s a
the fod). E tend notches to new seam aowance nes
ut out the pattern.
TE: o granne was mar ed snce there are two possb
methods of usng the gran. n genera, pacng the cente
fod on the true bas w produce a better ft snce tn
mdrff may then gve to the shape of the wast. Matera
whch are very soft or oosey woven, however, may gve to
much and tend to ose shape uness cut wth center fod a
straght of gran. Therefore, dscreton must be used, an
f possbe, both methods shoud be tested.
P UT
DA T
The upper bodce and ower
s rt sectons must be
paced on another sheet of
paper and recut wth seam
aowances added. Do not
trace the front dart, but
be sure to unfod t before
tracng wor ng soper on
new sheet.
Trace a notches and e -
tend them to new seam aow-
ance edges.
TE: The unfoded dart
space provdes t he e tra
matera for ma ng gathers.
The bac of the dress s made n e acty the same manne
as the front, e cept that the bac s rt dart w have
be foded out before drawng n the ower mdrff stye :
184-
opyrgh t 960 Mayer Pubshng o. 229 est 34 St. ew or 8.
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AG A ST E T G A M E
EAD G T E S ET - The pan ragan bodce has
ong seeves. The depth of armhoe s the same as
bodce soper. The shouder seam e tends nto an
Duter arm seam aong entre seeve ength.
TE: The outerarm seam may be emnated. f ths
s done the shouder seam becomes a shouder dart,
fhe pattern s made the same way wth the e cepton
f the seam emnaton, but there s apt to be more
raste of fabrc n ayng out the pattern.
AT S T E P EM The shouder dart of the bac
todce must be emnated. The shapng and pacement
)f the ragan seam must be determned. The upper por-
tons of armhoe and seeve cap must be combned to
torm a snge secton. f shouder pads are desred,
houder pad aowance must be fade
T
Emnate the bac shouder dart (as shown n esson ). Trace
a front and (dartess) bac soper on a sheet of paper. Add shouder
pad aowances f desred, (shown n esson 4).
otce that the upper end of the ragan seam s about 1/3 down
the sde of nec and that the ower end s about 4 above base of
armhoe. oowng these dmensons, s etch n the curve of the
ragan seamnes on front and bac .
Mar for a snge notch on front ragan seam and mar foradoube
notch on bac ragan seam. etter A, , , D, E, as shown. Mar
for notches as shown at and at D.
TE: The ower sectons of the seeve cap between A and , and
between and D, w be retaned whe the upper portons of the
seeve cap curves w be emnated.
- - f
Trace the seeve soper on a
sheet of paper about 20 by 30
(use ether the straght or the
ftted seeve soper). Add shouder
pad aowance to match the bodce
pattern.
Measure curved dstance A on
bac and measure dstance A from
bac of seeve cap aong seeve
cap curve measure off corres-
pondng dstances D n the same
manner on the bac .
etter seeve cap A, . , D as
shown.
TE: The seeve cap curves
between A and D w be retaned
whe the upper part of the seeve
cap curve above and D w be
emnated.

to P MUST
1 to 4
SEE TE.
ut off the upper sectons of
the front and bac bodce patterns
and pace them aganst the seeve
cap outne as shown.
AUT : Measure dstance from
E to t shoud not e ceed 1 1/4 .
f t s more than 1 1/4 the
seeve cap has too much ease to be
used for a ragan and the cap must
be redesgned to have not more
than 1 1/2 ease,- before dong
ths, however, t s advsabe to
chec for possbe errors n steps
2 or 3. See esson on how to
desgn a seeve cap.
Pn the sectons on the new sheet
n ths poston and trace them,
ncudng darts and notches.
epyrght 1950 Mayer Pubshng o. 229 est 34 St. ew or 18. .
185
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AG A ST E T G A M E
U D UT
T 1S P T 15
T0 2 E AP
A 5E S U DE E5,
EASE., A D
U D A G ES
U D UT
emove the wor ng soper. ase the shouder nes 1/4 for ease, or more for shouder pads round out the rased
shouder nes to meet at a pont from 1 1/2 to 2 beow the edge of seeve cap. Mar notches and darts n penc.
hec the seamnes aganst the front and bac sectons for matchng of notches and seamnes correct any dscrepan-
T S STEP S E U ED T E
A ST DA T S M E T A 3 DE AT T E
A ST.
educe wdth of wast dart as shown
from to M so that wdth of dart at
ower end becomes 3 . Draw a sash ne
parae to sdeseam and 1 1/2 away
from sdeseam.
E AP T M
Sash upward aong sash ne to
wthn 1/16 of armhoe curve. verap
the sashed secton 1/2 of dstance M
(the amount by whch the dart was re-
duced). Pn overapped secton n
pace. Pn wor ng soper on a new
sheet of paper wth on straght edge
of sheet. Trace wor ng soper, but
omt orgna notch , usng notch M
nstead.
emove wor ng soper. Shorten
dart n the usua manner. od
out and pn the reduced dart,
fodng competey down to the
edge of the sheet. S etch n an
even curve for the wastne to
correct the og caused by the
overappng secton and to even
up the sdes of the dart. Add
seam aowances to a edges e -
cept the fod. ut out the
pattern.
Dvde the seeve secton n
twobycuttng aong center ne.
Add seam aowances to the seeve
sectons, e tend notches to edges
and cut out the pattern. Pace
the bac secton on a new sheet
of paper and trace t wth added
seam aowances. ut out the bac
secton. umber the three sec-
tons 1, 2, and 3.
opyrght 1950 Mayer Pubshng o. 229 est 34 St. ew rr 18
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AG A ST E T DEEPE ED A M E
EAD G T E S ET - The pan ragan bodce
has ong seeves and deepened armhoe. There
s a shouder dart whch e tends sghty be-
yond the end of the shouder. TE: An overarm
seam may be added from the end of the shouder
seam down to the wrst, as n esson .
AT S T E P EM The shouder dart of
the bac bodce must be emnated. The pace-
ment and shapng of the ragan seam must be
determned. The armhoe must be owered and
therefore addtona wdth of seeve w be
re ured. The seeve cap curve must be re-
shaped. f shouder pads are desred, shouder
sad aowance must be made.
Emnate the bac shouder dart (as shown n esson ). Trace a
front and (dartess) bac s per on a sheet of paper. Add shouder pad
aowances f desred (shown n esson 4).
otce that the upper end of the ragan seam s about 1/3 down the
sde of nec and that the ower end s about 4 above the base of the
norma soper armhoe. oowng these dmensons s etch n the curve of
the ragan seamnes on front and bac .
Mar for a snge notch on front ragan seam and mar for a doube
notch on bac ragan seam.
Deepen the armhoe curve of front and bac 1 1/2 as shown. etter A,
, , D, E, , as shown.
G A E
Trace the seeve soper on
a sheet of paper about 20
by 30 (use ether the straght
or the ftted soper). Aow
for shouder pads to match
bodce pattern. etter the
front and the bac A, as
shown.
Mar off 1/2 each sde of
the top notch.
E tend sde seamnes of
seeve upward 3/4 (because
1/2 the 1 1/2 armhoe drop
on the bodce e uas 3/4 ).
ut off the upper bodce
sectons and pn them n the
poston shown. Trace around
the wor ng soper.
opyrght 1950 Mayer Pubshng o. 229 est 34 St. ew or 18. . .
187
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AG A ST E T DEEPE ED A M E
4.
emove the wor ng soper
peces.
Usng the seeve curve as
a gude draw a curve from
thru end of 3/4 e tenson
ne n the same manner,
draw a curve from D thru end
of other 3/4 e tenson ne.
Mar for notches at and D.
E tend the bcep nes of
the seeve outward about 3
at front and at bac .
U D
UT
n the ower bodce sec-
tons trm off the shaded
areas. Mar notches and D.
Measure the dstances A
and D, usng, f possbe
a fe be pastc rue.
rte down the two dstanc-
es separatey for future
reference.
Measure off dstance A aong
the bac of seeve curve, begnnng
at notch and contnung outward
aong the e tended bcep ne mar
end of dstance A. Pace adot 1/4
above A.
Draw a smooth curve upward and
outward to the dots as shown.
Draw a new seeve seamne from
end of e tended seevecap curve,
curvng new seamne graduay
nto the orgna seamne at
ebow eve.
den the front of seeve cap
curve n the same manner usng
dstance D.
Aow for shouder pads by
rasng the shoudernes 1/4 at
the outer ends of shouder (or a-
ow more for arger sze shouder
pads). urve the rased shouderr
nes to meet at a pont 1 /2 to
2 beow the edge of e tended
seevecap curve the shoudernes
f necessary to avod an ange.
ound out sharp curves at or D
and e tend notches.
hec seamnes of seeve and
shouder prongs aganst the front
and bac bodce seamnes to be
certan that a notches match
na e correctons f necessary.
shorten front wast dart f the dart s more than 3 wde at ts ower end. reduce wdth of dart as shown n esson
teps 6. 7, 8.
Add seam aowances to front, bac and seeve secton.
ut out the competed sectons, and number them 1, 2, and 3. .
88
opyrght 1950 Mayer Pubshng o. 229 est 34 St. ew or 18. . .
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M ST E T UT GUSSET
EAD G T E S ET - The s etch shows a pan
mono seeve bodce. The deep fods beow the
armpt provde ease for movement of the arm and
emnate the need for a gusset. The depth of
armhoe s at east 1 1/2 beow the norma
soper armhoe. TE: Strped or pad materas
may be made up wthout outerarm seam, but more
matera may be re ured.
AT S T E P EM The entre armhoe seam
and seeve cap must be emnated by combnng
haf the seeve and bodce front nto one secton
for the front, and the bac haves of seeve and
bodce nto another secton to form the bac .
The armhoe must be dropped at east 1 1/2 by
shortenng the sdeseam. Ease must be provded
by movng the upper end of sdeseam outward 1/2 .
Addtona ease s re ured at the armpt to per-
mt rasng of the arm.
Shouder pad aowance must be added, or f no
shouder pads are to be used, the shouders and
seeve cap are nevertheess to be e tended 1/4 .
-
Trace a front bodce soper and a seeve soper, (a straght or
ftted soper may be used the straght soper s better for matchng
strpes, but fts more oosey). Add shouder pad aowance to both
sopers f no shouder pads are to be used aow 1/4 ease n the
same manner as 1/4 shouder pad aowance.
Move upper end of sdeseam out 1/2 and shorten t 1 1/2 .
ut out the seeve and then cut t n haf aong a center ne drawn
from top notch to center of wrst.
Pace the front seeve
haf aganst the front
bodce as shown the pace-
ment of the upper end of
cap may dffer from the
drawng, but the pacement
of the underarm seam must
be e acty as shown. n
ths poston trace the
underarm seamne and
wrst. emove the haf
seeve soper. ue a ne
between shouder and wrst.
Draw a sash ne from end
.of shouder to pont of
armpt.
opyr9ht 950 Mayer Pubshng o. 229 est 34 St. ew or 18, . .
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M ST E T UT GUSSET
ut out the wor ng
soper.
Sash upward aong sash
ne from armpt to wthn
1/16 of end of shouder.
Spread sash openng 2
to 3 2 w provde
mnmum ease whereas 3
w provde room for e -
tra movement wth a oss
of ft.
Pn wor ng soper on
new sheet of paper and
trace a edges e cept the
sash openng.
ound off the ange, (f
there s any), at the end
of shouder.
ound out the ower end
of sash openng the or-
gna depth may be curved
.n, or the curve may be
deepened to 1 or 2 down
aong sdeseam and under-
arm seam, (dependng upon
the effect desred).
SP EAD
2 T 3
2
The bac porton of the pattern s made same as the
front e cept n drawng the curve at ower end of
sash openng.
The bac sash s spread the same dstance as the
front. The bac underarm curve s drawn usng the
front curve as a gude so that the two w match for
easy sttchng.
Add seam aowances and cut out the competed bac
pattern.
Shorten the front wast dart f the dart s more
than 3 n wdth at ts ower end, reduce wdth to
3 as shown n esson , Steps 6, 7, 8.
Add seam aowances to the front pattern and cut
t out.
opyrght 960 Mayer Pubshng o. 229 est 34 St. ew or 18.
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M ST E T GUSSET
EAD G T E S ET - The pan mono seeve has an underarm gusset.
The seeve has an nnerarm and an outerarm seam. There s a mnmum
amount of e cess funess beow the shouder (for a mono seeve) due
to the use of a gusset.
TE: Strped or pad materas may be made up wthout the outerarm
seam to emnate the probem of matchng strpes, but may nvove the
use of more fabrc.
Trace a front bodce soper and a seeve
soper, (a straght or ftted soper may be
used the straght soper s better for natch-
ng strpes, but fts mbre oosey).
Add shouder pad aowance to both sopers
fnoshouder pads aretobe used, aow 1/4
ease n the same manner as 1/4 shouder pad
aowance.
Move upper end of sdeseam out 1/2 and
shorten t 1 1/2 . ut out the seeve and cut
t n haf aong a center ne drawn from top
notch to center of wrst.
opyrght 1950 Mayer Pubshng o. 229 est 34 St ew or 18, . .
191
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M ST E T GUSSET
Pace the front seeve haf
aganst the front bodce as
shown the pacement of the
upper end of cap may vary from
the drawng, but the pacement
of the underarm seam must be
e acty as shown. n ths pos-
ton trace the underarm seam-
1 ne and wrst.
emove the haf seeve soper.
ue a ne between shouder
and wrst.
ocate the sttch nes for
sewng n the gusset as fo-
ows: Mar two ponts 3/4
down from the owered armpt.
ue a ne between the two
3/4 ponts. Mar the mdpont
of the ne. etter the ne
A, , , as shown. Draw a
3 7/16 ne from pont up-
ward passng thru the armpt
ange to pont M. Draw nes
MA and M to form 3 1/2 sttch
nes for the gusset. Sash
from to M for settng n the
gusset.
Add seam aowances and cut
out the front pattern.
The dmensons and bas granne
of the gusset are shown above.
TE : Snce the sttchnes for
the gusset were made 3 1/2 ong,
the gusset re ures 3 1/2 edges.
The gusset s damond-shaped n order
to provde for more ease and move-
ment n the upward drecton (7 ) and
ess ease n the forward or bac ward
drecton (2 1/2 to 3 ). These
amounts have been found to be gener-
ay satsfactory, but they may be
vared f desred so ong as the
basc 3 1/2 outer sdes are re-
taned.
TE : 1/2 seam aowances are
shown, but may create e cessve bu
under the arm, so they may be trmmed
off sghty after gusset has been
sewn.
U D
EM E E ESS
Trace a bac bodce soper
and carry out the same pro-
cedure as on the front usng
the bac haf of the seeve
soper.
ompare o 3 wth o 5
and note that the front cap
s onger n comparson to
the front armhoe, than the
bac cap s n comparson to
the bac armhoe. Ths s
the most usua reatonshp
between front and bac , but
t may vary wthout greaty
aterng the ft any vara-
ton s usuay caused by
pacement of the shouder n
than the norma pos-
ton ntfe-bmPa soper.
Shorten the front was - fr t f
the dart s more than 3 n wrtfyat
ts ower end, reduce wdth to 3 S
shown n esson 1, Steps 6, 7, 8.
Add seam aowances to the front
and bac patterns and cut them out.
umber front and bac sectons 1
and 2 number the gusset 3.
U D
ADD
opyrght 1950 Mayer Pubshng o. 229 est 34 St. ew or 18,
192
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DE
AD UST G, for ndvdua ft: 11, 12,
13 14
A M ES, dropped: 187, 189.
A M ES, shapng: 7, 8, 10.
A M ES, styed: mono, dropped
armhoe, 189 mono, hgh armhoe,
191 ragan, ftted, hgh armhoe, 185
ragan. oose, dropped armhoe, 187.
A D E, drapng of: 5.
A D E, gran: 5
A DA TS, pacement of: 5, 10.
A E DA TS, deveopment of,
from shouder dart: 39.
A S T DA T, pacement of: 79.
A S T S PE , drapng of: 79.
A ES: 43, 45.
AS DA TS, pacement of: 3, 5, 9,
10, 77, 79, 124.
AS PATTE S: bodce soper, 3,
5, 7, 9, 11 bouse soper, 163, 165
coar, fat, 147, coar, ro, 151, co-
ar, stand, 153, s rt soper, 77, 79, 81,
83, 85 seeve soper, 121, 126, 127,
129.
E S EE E: 131.
E T, pattern of: 178.
AS D G, use of: 146.
AS G A E, use of: 58.
S P S EE E, types: 133,134,139.
USE, basc patterns: wth under-
arm dart, 163 wthout underarm
dart, 165.
USES, styed: buttoned front, 167
buttoned bac , 169 hgh yo e, 171
deep yo e, 173.
D E, basc: commerca type, 3, 5,
7 custom-ftted, 9, 3, 5, 11, 7 drap-
ng of, 3, 5, 9, 11 fttng of, 9, 11
foundaton pattern of, 3, 5, 7 soper,
basc, 3, 5, 7.
D E S PE , chec ng ft of: 6,
7. 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14.
P EAT, nverted: 45, 97, 117.
UST T DA T, defnton of:
2. 3: basc manpuaton of, pvotng,
15. 17, 19, 21, 23 reducton of wdth,
165. 166 shortenng of ength: 19.
UTT ES, sze of: 73.
A S: basc (Peter Pan), 147
convertbe, 153 mandarn, 157 m-
tary, 158 notched (convertbe),
153: Peter Pan (fat), 147 Peter
Pan. (ro), 149 ro, ponted, 151
shaw. 155 stand, 153 te, 167.
A , theory of: 147, 149,
151. 153.
U S: ponted, ftted, 159 rench,
161: short seeve. 168 wrstband 134.
UST M TTED S T S PE :
85.
UST M TTED D E S PE :
9. 10 3, 5, 11, 12, 13, 14.
DA TS: baancng of, 7 defnton of,
2: drecton of fod, 15, 17, 82 manp-
uaton of, 7 matchng of wast and
s rt darts, 177 mutpe darts, 25
pacement of, basc, 3, 5, 9, 10, 77, 79,
124: prncpe of, 2 reducton of
wdth, 165, 166 shortenng of ength,
19: sdeseam ( rench), 17, 23 sze
of. 4: underarm, 21.
D AP G: bac bodce soper, 5
bac s rt soper, 79 front bodce
soper, 3 front s rt soper, 77 n-
dvdua soper, 9, 85 mdrff secton,
D ESSES, styed: assymetrc, surpce,
175 prncess, 179 mdrff secton,
183.
D PPED A M ES: 187,189.
EASE, n sopers: 7,12, 81, 86,121,125,
126, 163, 165.
EAS G , defnton of: 37.
A GS, nec ne: 51, 55.
TT G, foundaton pattern or soper:
9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 85, 86.
A E, s rt: 87, 89,91.
D EDGE, ndcatng n commerca
patterns: 51.
E DA T: 17.
E A , bodce: 49.
E U : 161.
E SEAM D ESS: 179.
T D E: drapng of, 3 theory
of ft, 3.
T S T DA T: dscusson of,
75, 77, 81 emnaton of, 83 nd-
vdua fttng, 85 ocaton of, 77.
T S T S PE : drapng of,
77.
T A ST DA T: pacement of,
4, 10 sze of, 4.
T ES: 61, 63, 65, 67, 69, 71,
73.
GAT E S at: shouder, 27 wast, 29
center front, 33 nec ne, 35 pan
yo e, 43 shaped yo e, 45, 61, 63, 65,
67, 69, 71, 73 s rt, 91, 93 pepum,
115 seeve, 133, 135, 139, 143, 145.
GAT E S: rato of, 2 to 1,1 to 1,33
shapng seamb nes of, 27, 35, 65, 92,
93.
G A E, mar ng of: 33, 47, 87.
GUSSET, n mono seeve: 192.
EM A A E: 87, 114.
EM A G: 106.
P E GT S PE , basc: 163,
165.
D DUA TT G: 9, 10, 11, 12,
13, 14.
E TED P EAT: 45, 97, 117.
G: 15, 17, 30.
M ST ES: gusset type, 191
ow armhoe type, 189.
E ED A M ES: 187, 189.
EG 0 MUTT S EE E: 143.
ME S EE E: 141.
M D SE T D ESS: 184.
MU T P E DA TS: 25, 41.
MUS PATTE , use and correc-
ton: 7, 11, 12, 13, 14, 81, 82, 83, 84,
85, 86.
E DA TS: 31, 39.
E TT G: 13, 51, 53.
E ES: bateau (boat), 51, cow,
57 heart-shape, 53 hgh round, 51
ow round, 51 ova, 53 st, 55
s uare, 53 sweetheart, 65 U-nec ,
53 -nec , 53.
T ES: bodce sdeseam, 6 s rt
sdeseam, 78, 80 seeve, 125.
T ES: for gathers: 27, 29, 33, 43
for matchng secton, 47, 87, 89.
PEP UMS: gathered, 115 peated,
117 crcuar, 119.
PE AT S: to show tuc nes:
30, 95.
P EATS, s rt: 95, 97, 101.
P EAT U DE A : 101.
P EATS, unpressed, s rt: 103, 105,
P ESS A U E, shapng of:
5, 47.
PU S EE E: 145.
AG A ST ES: hgh armhoe, ft-
ted, 185 ow armhoe, oose, 187.
SEAM A A E: 43, 45, 47.
SEAM ES AS , ocaton of: 3, 9,
10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 77, 79.
SE EDGE: 3.
S U DE DA T, purpose: 37, 5.
S U DE DA T, emnaton of: 37.
S U DE E, straght or curved:
S U DE PAD A A E: 129.
S U DE PAD A A E: n
soper: 3.
S U DE SEAM, ocaton: 8, 9.
S DESEAM, ocaton: 9.
S T, granb ne, baancng for: 81.
S TS, basc: drapng, 77, 79 fttng,
85 pattern, soper, 81 pattern,
soper, for factory use, 83.
S T, ease n: 77, 79.
S T, easng-n of wastne: 83, 88.
S T TT G, theory of: 75.
S T T DA T, emnaton of:
83.
S T G A E: 87.
S T, S DESEAM, matchng of curves
n: 81, 82, 83, 84.
S T S PE : 81, 82, 83, 84.
S T S PE , A T : 82, 83,
84.
S TS, styed: cartrdge peat, 107
crcuar, 113 four gore, 87 gath-
ered, 91, 93 nverted bo peat, 97
c peat, 101 peg-top, 105 rased
wastband, 91, 103 sde peats, 95
s gore, 89 unpressed peats, 103,
105, 107, 109 wrap-around, 109.
S AS E, def. of: 17.
S AS G, for e tra funess: 33, 35.
S AS G, method of: 23.
S EE E D A T: 121, 122, 123, 124,
125, 126, 127.
S EE ES, styed: be, 131 bshop,
133, 134, 139 darted cap, 137 gath-
ered cap, 135 eg o mutton, 143
meon, 141, puff, 145.
S EE E, theory of ft: 121, 122, 125,
126, 127.
S PE : bodce front, 3 bodce bac ,
5 bouse, 163, 165 s rt, 77, 79, 81,
83, 85 seeve, 121, 126, 127, 129.
S PE , method of chec ng: 6, 7, 8.
ST E ES, deveopment and nter-
pretaton: 45, 53, 59, 103, 105.
SU P E, dress: 175.
TA S S UA E, use of: 29, 43.
TEST S PE : 15.
TU , def. of: 29.
U DE A , peat: 101.
A ST A D, pattern of: 88.
A ST A D, rased, wdened: 91,103.
A ST DA T: reducton of wdth:
165, 166 shortenng of ength, 19.
A ST E, ocaton of: 9.
G S PE , def. of: 15.
ST A D: 134.
ES, bodce: 43, 45, 61, 63, 65, 67,
183 prncess dress, 179.
69, 71, 73.
107, 109.
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