WESTERN ILLINOIS UNIVERSITY

Environmental Sustainability in the Textile and Apparel Industry

A Trend that Should become Fashionable
Kellie Raddatz 12/6/2013

1 Going green, eco-friendly, and sustainability are all words that have become very familiar in the 21st century. Increasing concerns with non-renewable resources and atmospheric changes have raised awareness about environmental issues. Since this awareness has increased, efforts to help preserve the environment and reduce carbon footprints have also increased. This is becoming true for the textile industry. Although the word sustainability includes economic, political, environmental, and cultural dimensions, environmental sustainability in the textile industry is becoming very important and covers a vast range of topics. Fast fashion is incredibly popular in the United States due to the need to be trendy and have clothing in good condition, but fast fashion is unsustainable. Textiles have become somewhat of an attachment to people, but the effects of their use can be detrimental to the environment. Chemical usage, fossil fuels, water usage, and raw materials are all factors that impact the environment in the textile industry. As awareness increases of this unsustainability, so have the jobs in this field as many work to find solution to the problems that impact the globe. Concerns with sustainability in the textile industry have existed for quite a while, but the problem is growing with the consumers need for fast-fashion. In recent years, the need for new trends has grown so much that avid consumers are now primed to browse fast fashion stores every three weeks or so in search of new styles (276 Joy). Consumers that even claim to be environmentally conscious still want the new style and culture has made trends and styles change very quickly. A formerly standard turnaround time from catwalk to consumer of six months is now compressed to a matter of mere weeks which makes it difficult for retailers to compete unless they have a fast supply chain, which is usually not sustainable (275 Joy). Since making consumers more aware of how their fast fashion habits are unsafe can be difficult or

2 even impossible, it has become important in the fashion industry to look at the different ways the textile and apparel industry is harming the environment and how these issues can be fixed. The first issue that needs more attention when it comes to how the textiles industry harms the environment is through the use of chemicals. Chemicals are used for a wide variety of reasons including dyes and product finishes for holding color, fire retardant finish, and UV absorbers, just to name a few. Most of these chemicals are harmful and affect not only the health of the environment, but the health of the manufacturers, employees, and consumers. 40,000 to 50,000 tons of synthetic dyestuffs expelled into our rivers are complex chemical formulations containing some things that are very toxic to us (1 Hu). Some of these chemicals include, but are not limited to chlorine, lead, alkylphenolethoxylates, pentachlorophenol, arsenic, sulfuric acid, methanol, salt and dioxin (Ecotextiles:Listmania). In a study done by Green Peace, NPEs, cancer causing agents, were found in 63% of items tested from products across the globe including manufacturers like Levis, Zara, and Calvin Klein. The textile industry uses more chemicals than many realize. Even if the fabric is made of all natural fibers, ten to one hundred percent of the weight of the fabric in chemicals [is used] to produce that fabric (Ecotextiles;Chemicals). Chemicals used in textiles can be harmful to humans in many ways, whether they are toxic, cancer causing, or cause developmental or neurological problems. These chemicals can also be harmful to the environment if dumped into the water systems by killing wildlife. Large amounts of chemicals that may seem harmless can still destroy wildlife by disrupting the natural balance of nutrients needed for them to survive. Despite the harmfulness of these chemicals there are no laws which pertain to the chemicals used as dyestuffs, in processing, in printing, or as finishes applied to textiles (Ecotextiles;dyes). The

3 only laws in place apply to some childrens products, but do not show any concern for how textiles can affect the health of those around the children and in turn, the children themselves. Now the issue becomes what to do to prevent chemicals in the textile and apparel industry from being so harmful to the environment and ourselves. Even natural dyes are not sustainable because chemicals must be added to make them more colorfast and it is not possible to produce enough for use in all textiles. Cotton is most likely to fade so using natural dyes is best for other fibers that may not need chemicals if the colorfastness holds well (Kramer). Although there are some drawbacks to natural dyes it can be a start toward moving to sustainable textiles. Another option would be using naturally dyed cotton. Again, the colors are limited, but there is no dyeing needed. As for other chemicals in the textile industry Greenpeace has started a Detox Campaign which works with 18 international brands to eliminate their chemical usage. Their effort includes reducing hazardous chemical discharge to zero, informing the public about the hazardous chemicals the company uses in its products, creating deadlines for eliminating chemical use, and demonstrating to others how chemical use can be eliminated. This process will take time as weve seen since Zara is one of the companies that is taking part of the Detox Campaign beginning in 2011, but hazardous chemicals were still found in their products in 2012. The process is beginning slowly, but the textile industry is beginning to make some headway with this environmental concern. Although chemicals pose a huge environmental risk in the textile industry, so does the fossil fuel emission from textile production. The textile industryis the 5th largest contributor to CO2 in the United States and is even worse in other countries. Also, textiles accounted for about one ton of the 19.8 tons of total CO2 emissions produced by each person in the US in 2006. (Ecotextiles; CO2 emissions) It has become common knowledge in the United States

4 that CO2 emissions contribute to global warming and the deterioration of the ozone layer. All of this CO2 from the textile industry is harming the environment and something needs to be done to reduce the amount of fossil fuels produced from the textile industry. Manufacturers can reduce the amount of CO2 emissions from textile production in several ways. The business can become more energy efficient and sustainable in weaving and producing fabrics by using new technology like solar power or wind energy. It is also more energy efficient to produce fabric from natural fibers rather than man-made fibers. Nylon is the most energy intensive followed by acrylic and flax and cotton are the least energy intensive. Natural fibers are also better when it comes to reducing the impact of CO2 emissions because they are degradable and as they degrade sequester carbon and absorb CO2 from the atmosphere. Organic agriculture can also help prevent climate change by eliminating synthetic fertilizers and pesticides. (Ecotextiles CO2) Water usage is another large concern in the textile industry globally. Approximately 13 trillion gallons of water are discharged by U.S. industry each year (Porter 1). The global textile industry discharges 40,000-50,000 tons of dye into the water system which contaminates the water leading to the main problem with so much water usage. China has become the first victim of textile water pollutionwith nearly 50,000 textile factories contributing to the use of water (Ecotextiles water). The result of all this water use and pollution has cause one third of the population [lacking] access to clean drinking water (Greenpeace). Water is also important to sustain plant and wildlife. If the textile industry is using too much water or contaminating the water there is less for everyone else and this is slowly killing and destroying the environment.

5 As explained earlier, the Detox Campaign by Greenpeace is working to reduce the amount of chemical pollution in the textile industry which is helping to clean the water used in textile production. One major innovation for the textile industry that impacts water usage and other issues discussed earlier is called DyeCoo Textile Systems. The system manufactures polyester using recycled carbon dioxide, no water, no chemicals, less energy, and reduces cost by up to half. ColorZen Technology does the same for cotton which is a huge innovation for reducing water usage in the textile industry. In the coming decades it will become increasingly important to raise awareness about these technologies and make them more widely used in order to save wildlife and humans across the globe that are without clean water. With all of these concerns, the question becomes which materials are the best for creating textiles. According to Sara Kadolph in the 11th edition of the college textbook Textiles, cotton has extensive use of chemicals to fertilize the soil, kill insects, fight of diseases, control plant growth, and strip the leaves at harvest time. She also explains that when it rains the chemicals can travel in the runoff, making the water toxic to some other plants, animals, and even people. Cotton needs 20 inches of rain per year, making it a crop that uses up a large amount of extra water if there is not enough rainfall. In some countries this is a large problem because most of the water ends up being wasted, and the lakes and rivers are drained forcing communities to travel to different locations. Tilling the soil for the cotton to grow also causes soil erosion which depletes the group of nutrients. Organic cotton is only slightly better because it uses less chemicals and fertilizers, but there is still the concern of soil erosion and the use of too much water. Wool is not environmentally friendly either. Wool comes from sheep and there is the concern of overgrazing and also of how to dispose of the animal waste. One problem with animal waste is that is can go into the runoff from rain and contaminate the water, but there is

6 also a problem that is opposite from cotton taking too many nutrients from the soil. If too much waste is spread back over the land, there can be an excess of nutrients. Wool is also an intensive user of water, but also energy and chemicals since wool is very greasy and needs to be cleaned and processed a lot more than some other fibers. The environmental concerns of synthetic fibers may be clearer to consumers. Nylon for example is made using petrochemicals and there are several controversies surrounding the use of this because of drilling in sensitive environments, oil spills, and the use and disposal of hazardous chemicals. Also nitrous oxide, a greenhouse gas is emitted when producing nylon. Most of the environmental concerns for nylon also apply for polyester (Kadolph). Looking at all the environmental concerns and how each material plays into the concerns, it becomes difficult to determine the most sustainable fiber. Flax appears to be one of the better choices since it can be naturally dyed while remaining fairly colorfast, uses less energy, and has less water use. However, cotton can be sustainable if the ColorZen Technology is used. The concern of water usage with cotton production will be eliminated and if organic cotton is used there will be less fertilizers and chemicals used to grow the cotton. Polyester can be sustainable if using DyeCoo Textile Systems. Research is also being done to find new sustainable materials. Hemp is growing in popularity for an environmentally textile product, but it has its downsides as well. Another fiber that was recently discovered is a polymer made from corn (Gross). It seems as though there is no truly sustainable fiber, but the options explained above appear to be the best choices when it comes to preserving the environment. Despite the efforts to clean up the textile production process globally, more needs to be done to reduce the amount of pollution from the textile and apparel industry. The Ethical Fashion Forum explains that 1 million tons of textiles are thrown away every year. That is

7 equal to 143,000 full size elephants. With landfills quickly filling up in several countries, reducing the amount of textiles thrown away each year is a concern. The textile industry affects more than the land though. 80% of the microplastic found in the samples which [scientists] collected on [beaches] was fibrous: polyester, acrylic and polyamides (nylon) fibers (Ecotextiles water use). These fibers most likely come from fabric that was not discarded or recycled properly and is instead contributing the vast amount of pollution in the oceans. This pollution is affecting much of the marine wildlife. Most of the fibers found are synthetic since it takes longer for synthetic fibers to degrade. By using biodegradable fibers and recycling textile products more, pollution on land and water from the textile industry can be reduced. Natural fibers like cotton, flax, and wool are biodegradable and are less harmful to wildlife if ingested. Companies need to create recycling programs for non-biodegradable textiles to prevent them from ending up in the oceans. Some companies have been known to recycle old garments and either reuse the material to make into another clothing item or to create something completely new. Shoe companies have been known to take running shoes and turn the material into a track. Consumers can also keep textiles out of the landfills by using their items for longer or by finding new uses for them. Many cultures have a disposable attitude about clothing and it is still important to try to change this in order to help the global environment. Since there is a vast array of problems in the textile industry concerning environmental sustainability the number of jobs in the field is increasing. Jobs can include waste management and researching new technology to make the textile production process more sustainable. Companies are always looking for new innovation and new ways to be more energy efficient and use less water and chemicals not only to save the environment, but to save money. It is

8 likely in the future for jobs in this sector to increase. Although some technology has been created recently to make certain fibers more sustainable, there are so many other fibers that have problems that need addressing and there may even be new fibers yet to be discovered that are more environmentally friendly. Other positions that may become available in waste management will be the removal of harmful chemicals in the water systems, landfill management, and the cleaning and restoration of our oceans. Although these waste management positions do not directly work with the textile industry, textiles have a large part in making these jobs needed. Chemical use, fossil fuel emissions, water use, sustainable materials, and pollution of our land and water are all concerns in the textile industry when it comes to environmental sustainability and the industry is slowly becoming more knowledge and innovative to create a more environmentally friendly production. Since fast fashion appears to be a trend that will not end, it is important to find new ways to solve the problems currently occurring in the textiles industry. Many people do not realize the large impact the textile industry has on the environment globally, but awareness is increasing. As environmental sustainability becomes a concern in other industries, people will begin to see the problem in the textile industry. More and more companies are beginning to change their thinking and other will catch on quickly to create new jobs for a cleaner and healthy environment. Its time consumers and manufacturers worried less about turning sales for large profits and more about being environmental sustainable to protect the environment, themselves, and the future generations.

9 References Gross, E. E. (2000). Polymer Makers Debut Fiber Made from Corn. Textile World, 150(2), 76. Joy, A., Sherry, J., Vankatesh, A., Wang, J., &Chan, R. (2012). Fast Fashion, Sustainability, and the Ethical Appeal of Luxury Brands. Fashion Theory, 16(3), 273-296. Retrieved November 30, 2013, from the Textile Technology Index database.

Kadolph, Sara J. "Chapter 4-8." Textiles. 11th ed. Boston: Pearson, 2010. N. pag. Print

Kramer, J. (1972). Natural dyes, plants, & processes. New York: Scribner.

Chemicals Used in Textile Processing. (n.d.). O ECOTEXTILES. Retrieved December 6,2013, from http://oecotextiles.wordpress.com/2013/01/10/chemicals-used-in-textileprocessing/ CO2 Emissions in Textile Industry. (n.d.). O ECOTEXTILES. Retrieved December 6,2013, http://oecotextiles.wordpress.com/category/co2-emissions-in-textile-industry/ Detox Campaign. (n.d.). Greenpeace.com. Retrieved December 6, 2012, from http://www.greenpeace.org/international/en/campaigns/toxics/water/detox/intro/ Dyes- synthetic and natural. (n.d.). O ECOTEXTILES. Retrieved December 6, 2013 from http://oecotextiles.wordpress.com/category/chemicals/dyes/

"The Issues." Ethicalfashionforum.com. Ethical Fashion Forum, n.d. Web. 28 Oct. 2012. <http://www.ethicalfashionforum.com/the-issues>.

Porter, J., Lyons, D., Nolan, W. (n.d.). Water Uses and Wastes in the Textile Industry. 94-108

Rodie, J. (2012). A Swimming Poolful At A Time. Textile World, 162(6), 22-24.

10 Toxic Threads: The Big Fashion Stich-Up (October 2012). Greenpeace.com. Retrieved December 6, 2012, from http://www.greenpeace.org/international/Global/international/publications/toxics/Water %202012/ToxicThreads01.pdf

Water Use. (n.d.). Ecotextiles. Retrieved November 30, 2013, from http://oecotextiles.wordpress.com/category/textile/water-use/