East Java Oasis: Bale Kambang

On first impression Javas 3 biggest city Malang doesnt offer much except less traffic and a cooler
temperature than Surabaya and Jakarta. However, if you know where to look this city has hidden gems
lurking beyond the burning piles of trash, and motorcycle exhaust. When the smoke of the city center
clears it reveals a beautiful landscape of emerald greens and sapphire blues that serve to remind me that
I am actually living on a breathtaking tropical island if I can only charm the goddess Java enough to
uncover her secret oases.
It was this quest for more from what had become my more or less sleepy little hometown for the past 8
months that brought me to Bale Kambang beach. A mere 2 hour drive from my humble apartment, my
students had been recommending this location to me for months, but since I had no idea how to get
there, it remained uncharted territory and I didnt really believe that Malang stretched all the way to the
coast. It turns out I was wrong. Named for its resemblance to the famous beaches of the neighboring
island of Bali: Bale Kambang (meaning small floating house)exists as a part of Malang. And since its
impossible to reach with public transportation, it has remained a well kept secret of the East Javanese
people.
My day started at 5 a.m. to beat the heat and the crowds. My friend Nita and our driver for the day
picked up Stephanie and I to begin our journey. Our first destination was the flower stall at the local
rd
traditional market to buy some roses, jasmine and fragrant leaves to act as our offering to the Hindu
gods of the temple on Bale Kambang. Bright trays of flowers littered the stalls on the street beckoning
to become our vessel for prayer. It wasnt long before Nita had a bag full of heavenly foliage and we
were on our way armed with offerings.
The road to the coast took us through some incredibly scenic territory. Within 30 minutes the landscape
transformed from grey graffiti buildings supporting Arema, the local soccer team, to green rice paddies,
bamboo and farms. Yet, this was still Malang. My mouth dropped and I asked the driver to pull over so
that I could capture the beauty of the landscape with some snapshots. During our Impromptu photo
session, a woman passed by on her way to tending the farm. We somehow convinced her to take a
photo with us despite her protests. Her lack of enthusiasm only served to fuel ours. We ended up
getting her to enthusiastically pose with us, instead of getting shanked by her sickle.
Bale Kambang is a popular destination for local East Javanese tourists, but as it turns out is a secret
from most foreigners. Its beautiful Hindu temple juts out of the water on a large rock that most likely
used to be covered in underwater coral in another time. It is considered a sacred beach, and holy place
where the Javanese Goddess of the South Seas resides among the Hindu gods to invoke awe and
worship among mortals.

We met the Hindu priest and caretaker of the temple,a close friend of Nitas and after visiting with him
and his wife at their very humble beachfront home, we were granted the key to go inside the temple, an
honor usually reserved for high Hindu spirituals and family. We tied yellow sashes around our waists
for ceremony and made our way across the bridge jutting out of crystal clear turquoise water to the
temple where we would pay tribute to the deities.








The scenery that the temple offers is healing to the soul. All my stresses melted, washed away by the
crashing of waves, the fragrance of burning incense, and the fellowship of friends in a peaceful place.
The inner courtyard of the temple has exquisite stone carvings, sand beneath visitors feet, and a view
of the 10 foot waves crashing to remind visitors of the power of the ocean goddess and the smallness of
us humans in the world mere grains of sand like those under our feet in the scheme of the universe.
After a while enjoying the temple we headed out to the water to cleanse ourselves in the refreshing,
transparent sea salt. The water was amazing. It was cleaner than the water that attracts most tourists to
Bali or Gili Trawangan. Its also teeming with life, but armed with a strong current protecting the reefs
from most destructive swimmers. The tide took us down the coastline lounging and floating and picking
up shells and dead coral along the way. Fish nibbled at my feet like I was an all you can eat buffet and I
connected with my inner mermaid.



Lunchtime brought us to a tasty fried rice stall where we each got our own coconut cut open to drink
from. Hydration was never so delicious.


A small walk inland is a natural freshwater estuary that has 7 natural deep pools marking under water
caves that flow to the ocean. These sacred pools are located in lush jungle foliage. Bamboo and tropical
trees line the path with loping vines and twisting roots. They are thought to mark the portals to the
spiritual world for some locals. Unfortunately as we were deep into the dry season of Indonesia, the
main pool was sort of lacking in actual water, but was still an impressive hole reminding us that
underfoot were ancient caves: waterways to the sea.
The whole day awestruck me. This oasis is sustained so close to urban life, laying undiscovered and
largely untainted by tourism. I felt such privilege not only to visit but be let inside the temple (usually
reserved for very important Hindus), indulge in the ocean and greenery and be reminded that indeed
Indonesia does have a lot to offer right on Java, and outside of the usual hot spot islands. Adventure
rule #1: Make friends with a local and explore!
THANKS TO NITA FOR MAKING THIS TRIP POSSIBLE!