St Aldhelm’s Head

Dramatically situated high above the sea, the cliffs of St Aldhelm’s Head provide an interesting option for a rough day.
Surrounded by an enormous boulder field the head, and especially its dominating feature the Yellow Wall, provides a
splendid amphitheatre for the adventurous climber. New developments have swept this backwater of Swanage climbing
into the twenty-first century; however for those of us still stranded in the twentieth, the Head has a wide selection of lower-
grade routes.

As they are never washed clean by the sea, and have had little traffic, the routes here can be rather loose. The rarely
climbed section of the cliff north-west of the lookout has a shale lower wall and a very shattered top section and is
therefore not recommended.
The top of St Aldhelm’s Head has been quarried leaving an often-sheltered ledge and an unusual pinnacle. The rear wall
of the ledge gives some (old-school) bouldering. The topography of the ledge is straightforward and exploration will soon
show ways down other than that described below.

Access: Nesting-season restrictions apply on the Yellow Wall and the unclimbed cliff to the north-west, as far as the valley
of Pier Bottom (see p????). Ravens nest amongst the Lost World of cliffs to the north-east; there are no formal restrictions
here and, with restraint, there need be none.

Approach: Follow the road from Langton Matravers (or Kingston) through Worth Matravers, passing by the Square and
Compass pub and the church. The tarmac road continues on to Renscombe Farm where a track on the left leads to the
headland. Park in the free National Trust car-park one hundred metres along the track. A tedious walk along the track to
St Aldhelm’s Head can be obviated with the use of mountain bikes.

A more pleasant approach can be made by following the directions for Winspit and then walking the coast path south-
westward to the headland.
For the Main Area and The Yellow Wall walk one hundred and fifty metres east from the National Coastwatch lookout,
past an unsightly memorial, to a flight of concrete steps. At the foot of the steps scramble down a short, easy gully to the
west. A faint path leads westward from below The Outlaw to pass close under Spider Ledge and onward, and downward,
to the Yellow Wall.

For Buttery Corner, scramble down the gully as for Main Area. Descend further, to the left, following cables, and then trek
eastwards to meet the sea at the end of the undercliff. Alternatively, and much easier, follow the cliff-top path eastwards
from the National Coastwatch lookout until the fence makes a right-angle bend. Abseil from a stake, down a west-facing
wall, to the undercliff.

The Western Walls.

There is, not unsurprisingly, only one route on the material to the west of the lookout. A little way west of the lookout, just
past the bench seat, is a broken arête on the left side of the crag.

Forever Autumn-37 metres E4 5c

A big, intimidating pitch. Start to the left of the arête's base, after an abseil approach just to the west of the arête itself.
Climb the arête (initially bold) with little deviation past a series of horizontal breaks, and a bold and run out crux at half-
height. Finish up a vegetated groove. Stake belay.
The Yellow Wall
West of the main area the cliff rapidly gains in height as the ground beneath it falls away. Beyond is an impressive south-
facing yellow wall that stands a rope-length high. The wall is split by several strong crack lines; the more distinctive of
these are the chimney climbed by Moebius and the Y-shaped crack of Angel Pavement to the right. All of the routes here
are serious propositions; the faces between the cracks are suitable only for the brave.

Calamity Jane-40 metres HVS 4c

Start in the bay opposite the western end of the ridge formed by huge fallen blocks. Climb leftwards on shale for 7 metres
to the wide crack. Continue up this and a short crack on the left to a ledge. Scramble up the gully on the right and belay a
long way back with an extra rope.

Return of the Native-40 metres HVS 5a

Start at a crack 3 metres left of the pinnacle flake on the left-hand side of The Yellow Wall. High in the grade. Climb the
crack to a grassy ledge and continue to the top. Belay a long way back with an extra rope.

Gorgonzola-40 metres E45c

The slight groove in the leaning face right of Return of the Native above the pinnacle flake. Perhaps the safest face climb
on the crag. Bold, high in the grade, and sustained. Start at the detached pinnacle.
Climb the left hand side of the pinnacle to an in situ thread and climb the face (poor Friend 1½) to a small roof, poor Rock
5 down on the right. Climb up to the roof and through the committing crux to a flake. Go on to an in situ thread and a
reasonable rest. Climb the tricky bulge above to the faultline. Continue up a wide crack system, step right, and climb the
obvious short, stepped groove to the top. Stake and block belays.

House of Debris-40 metres E25b

The obvious crack to the left of Moebius's chimney. Surprisingly awkward. Large cams and Hexes useful. Climb the right
hand side of the pinnacle (in situ thread on the right), swing into the wide crack and follow it all the way to the main
faultline. Continue up a short crack and step right to finish up the left wall of the gully.
Moebius-40 metres VS 4b
Start below the prominent cleft to the right of the pinnacle flake. Climb the cleft to reach a flake at 12 metres. Continue to
a chockstone and an earthy ledge, and finish up the gully on the left.

Fragile Earth-40 metres E6

A strangely enticing line up the leaning face and bulge to the right of Moebius. Insecure and deeply frightening. The
crucial pitch is the first; a pumpy, snappy face climb, protected in its lower section by two, short, questionable knifeblades
and an RP 3. Abseil rope belay advised at the top of the initial scree.
1#31m.#6a.#From the base of Moebius's chimney, climb rightwards on to the face, continuing delicately past two peg
runners and up to a sidepull (RP 3). Move up to the bulge (two in situ threads), and make one last desperate move to a
huge flake hold. Continue slightly more easily to the faultline. Peg, wires, Friend ½, belay.
2#9m.#6a.#Climb the centre of the top face past a peg runner to the top. Small wires.

Glowing Bronze-40 metres E7

Possibly the most harrowing line to be found lurking within Swanage's undeniably adventurous itinerary. The route takes
the overhanging, faintly-grooved, face to the right of Fragile Earth. Longer and much more sustained than Fragile Earth,
and just as steep, with the crux at the very end of the pitch. Superb, thought-provoking face climbing, with big fall
potential. Take a selection of small cams including three 1’s, they may steady the mind.
1#31m.#6b.#Climb Fragile Earth to the second peg, then step right and tread carefully and steeply up the shallow groove,
with powerful moves leading to good undercuts. Make hard, taxing moves right; further desperation leads up to the final
horizontal break, a short crack and the belay ledge. Belay just right of the sister route at an obvious crack (medium cams,
wires).
2#9m.#6a.#Fragile Earth pitch 2.

Elm Street-40 metres E25b

Seven metres right of Moebius a wide crack leans rightwards and outwards. Start here. Very strenuous, and with its fair
share of dubious rock. Take large Hexes and Friends. Climb the crack (peg runner on the right), with a deviation right and
back left around a triangular block. Follow the vague corner-line to the top.
Angel Pavement-43 metres E2
Start 9 metres right of Moebius at the foot of a very loose shale corner topped by the Y-shaped crack. Easier than its
neighbours, despite the terror terrain at the start.
1#15m.#5a.#Climb the loose corner to reach the top of the pedestal on the right. Follow the wide crack above to the
jammed block and the slanting crack on the right to a small ledge.
2#28m.#4c.#Climb the crack at the right-hand end of the belay ledge to reach another ledge and finish up the corner
above.

At the right-hand end of The Yellow Wall are two vertical cracks taken by Mammotholian on the left and Riding the
Warhead on the right.

The Devil’s Highway-40 metres E4 5b

The face left of Mammotholian. Another scary one. The first half constitutes both the mental and the physical crux. You
really must not fall off. Slightly better quality rock than Fragile Earth. A big, wandering pitch, featuring exploding Friend
placements low down. Belay as for Mammotholian (in situ peg, wires).
Climb the face 3 metres left of the belay using the better “brown, domed” holds, past a Friend ½ and two Friends 1½
(crucial). Continue carefully past a poor Rock 6 to better holds; flakes and pockets guide you to an in situ thread. Pass the
thread to join Mammotholian at its leftwards traverse. Follow Mammotholian's big flake to the main faultline; from the left
end of the wide ledge (thread runner), climb the wide crack for 3 metres (shared with Angel Pavement), then traverse the
deep horizontal break leftwards for 3 metres and climb the obvious groove to the top.

Mammotholian-38 metres E2
The left-hand crack requires large Hexes and Friends and has a poorly-protected start. Scramble precariously up 7
metres of steep scree to a peg belay at the base of the wall.
1#23m.#5b.#Climb the wide crack until it narrows and veers to the right. Traverse leftwards with difficulty for 3 metres and
continue up to a layback flake, which is followed rightwards to the right hand end of the long grassy ledge.
2#14m.#4c.#Step up and right onto a pillar. Climb straight up the wall past a wide
break and a strange pocket to the top.
Riding the Warhead-40 metres E2 5a
The steep crack right of Mammotholian. Take big cams and Hexes. A very unnerving start. From the belay of
Mammotholian, dust-hop right and enter the crack with difficulty (Rocks 6 and 7). Continue past a thread in a pocket and
follow the, now more solid, rightwards-trending crack past another in situ thread to a flake and a breather. Push on to the
main faultline, step right and climb the pillar face direct on small holds with very little gear to join Mammotholian for its last
5 metres.

Yellow Edge-22 metres E45c

At the right hand end of the Yellow Wall is a steep arête. Scramble up to the ledge on the right (peg). Swing up onto the
arête and climb bravely up to the ledge, and protection. Continue up past two hard sections (better protected) to the large
ledge near the top. Walk off to the right.

Main Area
Immediately west of the descent gully are the corners of Loosestone Crack and Sigmoid Direct. To the west a small jutting
buttress is home for Claire’s Brother. The short, inset wall beyond is split by One Nut Crack and has an easy descent on
its western side. West again the cliff-top pinnacle conveniently marks its eponymous gully. Past an unappetizing wall,
Block Wall Gully is a useful way down. Further west the square-cut final overhang of Battle of the Bulge and the initial
chimney of Jim’s Jam are obvious reference points.

Jim’s Jam-21 metres Severe

Start to the right of The Yellow Wall where a chimney on the right-hand side of a
protruding nose leads to a ledge and a large, gaping chimney above.
1#12m.#Climb the chimney, passing a chockstone near the top. Belay on a wide ledge.
2#9m.#4a.#Follow the corner to the right of the big chimney, with a difficult start. The upper chimney is the easier
alternative (Difficult).

The obvious wide chimney to the right of Jim’s Jam provides a small amount of climbing at Moderate standard.

Brian’s Route-10 metres Severe

The crack and corner splitting the wall to the right of the wide chimney is not as tempting as it looks.
Slimline-18 metres Severe 4a
Climb the chimney and crack 2 metres left of Battle of the Bulge.

Battle of the Bulge-15 metres VS 4b

A route with good protection once the chimney is entered, and an interesting finish. Start beneath a wide chimney capped
by blocky roofs. Climb the subsidiary rib below the chimney with care and follow the chimney itself to the roof. Step right
(good thread runner) and exit using the right-hand crack. Stake belay.
Variation

*Weight Watchers Finish-15 metres HVS 5a

A direct finish via the left-hand roof-crack. Large hands required, or boxing gloves!

Name Please-15 metres VS 4b

A pleasant climb up the groove to the right of Battle of the Bulge. Climb the groove until it is possible to move right to the
arête about 5 metres from the top. A fine move up past a good runner leads to the finish up the solid subsidiary groove.

Internal Exile-15 metres HVS 5a

Climb the second groove right of Battle of the Bulge. Continue straight up where the crack divides and grab the top. Now
reach left, coolly flick the pebbles off the lip, and pull over. Belay on large concrete blocks.

To the right is a gully choked by a wall of blocks. Block Wall Gully provides a useful descent route (at the western corner),
although care is required.

Rescue Corner-15 metres Severe 4a

A loose and unsatisfying route up the large corner to the left of the gully. Belay on the tangle of reinforcing rods.

The Pilotman-12 metres HVS 5a

To the right of Rescue Corner is an arête with two grooves. The Pilotman climbs the left-hand groove. Climb up from the
right to stand on the wobbling boulder. Make a hard move left, with poor protection, to gain the ledge below the groove.
Climb the groove (steeper than it looks) to the top.
Every Whichway…18 metres VS 4c
On the wall immediately east of Block Wall Gully is a crackline with a small pinnacle midway. A loose route. Climb the
lower crack (crux) to reach a ledge. Follow flake cracks to the pinnacle and continue left of this to the top. Belay on the
back wall.

Spider Ledge-21 metres HVS 5b

Start at the lowest point of the east wall of Block Wall Gully. A projecting foot-ledge at 2½ metres (8 feet - the joke falls flat
in new money!) marks the spot. Climb to the foot-ledge and up the facet above. Step left to a corner; climb this and follow
the rightward-leaning groove to the top.

The Other Gully-18 metres Severe

Start beneath the conspicuous poised pinnacle on the cliff-top. Climb the corner which finishes on the left-hand side of the
pinnacle.

Pinnacle Gully-18 metres VDiff

This also starts beneath the pinnacle. Follow a crack to the terrace at 7 metres, and climb the wall on the right to finish on
the pinnacle’s right-hand side. Thread belay as for Other Times or go on up to pose on the top of the pinnacle.

To the right of Pinnacle Gully is an obvious, wide, crackline upon which two climbs are based. Ivy often masks the short
initial crack; these are two of the few routes at Swanage that use the vegetated symbol ‡.

Other Times-18 metres E15b

This route climbs the corner-crack and the groove directly above. Shoulder the ivy aside and climb the crack to a roof.
Crawl left and follow the corner-crack to another roof. Cross the roof and step out left to a ledge and runners. Move back
right and climb the groove to the top. Thread belay in part-buried large blocks right of the rock buttress.
Other Places-15 metres E2 5c
Some push is required for this punchy problem, which proves surprisingly steep and surprisingly good. Follow the ivy-
enveloped crack as for Other Times. Surmount the roof and follow the crack to a second roof. Pull over and move slightly
leftwards to finish up a short corner. Thread belay as above.

The Last Corner-13 metres Severe 4a

A pleasant route, solid for the area and with good protection. Climb the corner 10 metres right of Pinnacle Gully. Belay as
for Other Times.

Northern Sky-13 metres VS 4b

To the right of The Last Corner is an overhang. Start on its right-hand side. An unpleasant route with poor protection and
potentially loose holds. Climb a short crack, traverse left to the arête, and follow the vague groove above. Belay as for
Other Times.

Quick Chimney-11 metres Severe

The loose chimney right of Northern Sky, just before an easy way down.
The inset wall gives excellent rock for the following four routes.

Seriously Short-9 metres E2 6a

A strenuous exercise of sedimentary solidity on which the sequence is all-important. A good (stainless steel) peg provides
half of the protection. Climb the arête immediately right of the easy way down, artificially avoiding Little Corner for the first
few moves.

Little Corner-9 metres Severe 4a

Climb the corner near the left-hand side of the short recessed wall. Exit to the right of the capping block.

One Nut Crack-9 metres VS 5a

Often proves to be a telling test of fitness and ability on the day, despite the proximity of the top to the ground! Upgraded
because of the many failures, not through any change in the route. Solid, well protected, and escapable. Climb the crack
in the middle of the short recessed wall.

Pineapple Edge-9 metres HVS 5b

A sustained and poorly-protected route. Climb the right edge of the short recessed wall straight to the top.

Difficult Descent-10 metres Diff

Climb (or descend) the wide, chockstone-filled chimney on the right side of the short recessed wall.

From this point eastwards the rock quality deteriorates. Although the routes are still eminently climbable, and the dangers
overt rather than covert, it is probably better to "tune-in" on other St Aldhelm's Head routes first.

Claire’s Brother-10 metres VS 4b

Starting on its left-hand side, climb the buttress to the right of Difficult Descent. (Starting up the centre of the face is HVS
5a.)
Gardeners’ Question Time-13 metres VDiff
Start 3 metres right of Claire’s Brother below a thin, detached ledge. Climb up rightwards to the grassy top of a large block
at 3 metres. Step right and climb the slabby wall above, keeping just right of the loose corner until the final move. Belay
far back using an extra rope.

Shatterbox-18 metres HS 4a
Start right of Gardeners’ Question Time at the lower level. Climb the leftward-slanting flake crack to a ledge at 4 metres.
Follow the chimney to the detached ledge at its top. Finish straight up the wall.

Coccyx-18 metres VS 4c
Start near the right end of the wall avoided in the main by Shatterbox. Climb the steep initial wall to a ledge. Move up to
reach a vertical crack and finish to the left.

Sigmoid Direct-15 metres HVS 4c

A good route. Start in the corner 15 metres left of the descent gully (just around the arête from Coccyx). Climb to the
earthy ledge and finish up the overhanging corner-crack. Belay a long way back with an extra rope.

The Smooth Snake-19 metres HVS 4c

The fine grooved arête between Sigmoid Direct and Cabbage Patch Kids. Climb the groove just right of Sigmoid Direct to
the break. Move left, climb up to the next break and pass the overhang on the right. Climb up before trending right to gain
the corner which leads to the top.

Cabbage Patch Kids-15 metres VS 4c

Start just left of Loosestone Crack at a tiny corner. Climb up past the faultline and up a broken left-facing groove to the
top. Belay a long way back with an extra rope.

Loosestone Crack-18 metres Severe 4a

Start 7 metres right of Sigmoid Direct. Climb the loose, overhanging chimney. Small boulder belay.
TIM’S ROUTE HERE WESSEX DINNER W/E????????

The Outlaw-18 metres HVS 5a

The slabby arête right of Loosestone Crack. Climb up just left of the lower arête to the ledge. Step right and climb the
slabby arête avoiding loose rock.

Divine Wind-15 metres HS

Start 3 metres west of the descent gully. Poorly protected and therefore not recommended. Climb a vague scoop to the
ledge at 3 metres. Climb the corner-crack with a slab on its left. Move diagonally rightwards onto a cherty prow, and finish
straight up. Block belay.