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http://www.archive.org/cletails/cu31924028534240

THE LIBRARY
OF THE

Palestine pilgrims' ^ext ocietg.

Vol. III.
THE PILGRIMAGE OF ARCULFUS.
THE HODOEPORICON OF

ST.

WILLIBALD.

DESCRIPTION OF SYRIA AND PALESTINE.

MUKADDASI.

THE ITINERARY OF BERNARD THE WISE.

LONDON
24,

HANOVER SQUARE,
1897.

W.

By

THE

PILGRIMAGE OF ARCULFUS
IN

THE

HOLY LAND.

^y

'^ff

Pale0tim pilgrims' ^ext

(Societg.

THE

PILGRIMAGE OF ARCULFUS
IN

THE

HOLY LAND
(About the Year A.D.

"ili-attaJatei

670).

anb ;^nttotateb

BY THE

REV. JAMES ROSE MACPHERSON, B.D.

LONDON
I,

ADAM STREET, ADELPHL


1889.

-(.

?,^'

CONTENTS.
PREFACE
LIST OF MANUSCRIPTS
-

^-

PAGE
xi

xix

ARCULF'S NARRATIVE ABOUT THE


HOLY PLACES, WRITTEN BY

ADAMNAN.
BOOK

I.

CHAPTER

INTRODUCTION
I.

II.

III.

THE SITUATION OF JERUSALEM, THE GATES OF THE


CITY, THE YEARLY MARKET, THE SITE OF THE TEMPLE,
THE ORATORY OF THE SARACENS, THE GREAT HOUSES
THE ROUND CHURCH BUILT ABOVE THE SEPULCHRE OF
THE LORD
THE FORM OF THE SEPULCHRE ITSELF AND ITS LITTLE

-----.

CABIN
IV.

V.

VI.
VII.

VIII.

THE STONE THAT WAS ROLLED TO THE MOUTH OF THE


TOMB, WHICH THE ANGEL OF THE LORD, DESCENDING
FROM HEAVEN AFTER HIS RESURRECTION, ROLLED
BACK THE CHAPEL, AND THE SEPULCHRE THE CHURCH OF ST. MARY, WHICH ADJOINS THE ROUND
CHURCH
THE CHURCH THAT IS BUILT ON THE SITE OF CALVARY
THE BASILICA WHICH CONSTANTINE BUILT CLOSE TO
THE ABOVE-NAMED CHURCH ON THE SPOT WHERE
THE CROSS OF THE LORD, WHICH HAD BEEN BURIED
IN RUINS, WAS FOUND, WHEN AFTER MANY CENTURIES
THE EARTH WAS DUG UP
THE SITE OF THE ALTAR OF ABRAHAM
-

9
9

10
10

CONTENTS.

vi

PAGE

CHAPTER
IX.

THE RECESS SITUATED BETWEEN THE CHURCH OF CALVARY AND THE BASILICA OF CONSTANTINE, IN WHICH
ARE KEPT THE CUP OF THE LORD AND THE SPONGE
FROM WHICH, AS HE HUNG ON THE TREE, HE DRANK
VINEGAR AND WINE
THE SPEAR OF THE SOLDIER WITH WHICH HE PIERCED
THE SIDE OF THE LORD
THE NAPKIN WITH WHICH THE HEAD OF THE LORD
WAS COVERED IN THE SEPULCHRE ANOTHER SACRED LINEN CLOTH WHICH, AS IS SAID,
ST. MARY THE VIRGIN, THE MOTHER OF THE LORD,
-

X.

XI.

x'll.

II

12

12

l6
WOVE
THE LOFTY COLUMN SITUATED ON THE SPOT WHERE A
DEAD YOUNG MAN CAME TO LIFE AGAIN, WHEN THE
CROSS OF THE LORD WAS PLACED ON HIM AND THE
l6
MIDDLE OF THE WORLD
XIV. THE CHURCH OF ST. MARY BUILT IN THE VALLEY OF
JOSAPHAT, IN WHICH IS HER TOMB
17
l8
XV. THE TOWER OF JOSAPHAT BUILT IN THE SAME VALLEY l8
XVI. THE TOMBS OF SIMEON AND JOSEPH
XVII. THE CAVE IN THE ROCK OF THE MOUNT OF OLIVET,
ACROSS THE VALLEY OF JOSAPHAT, IN WHICH ARE
FOUR TABLES AND TWO WELLS
l8
XVIII. THE GATE OF DAVID, AND THE PLACE WHERE JUDAS
ISCARIOTH HANGED HIMSELF BY A ROPS
"19
XIX. THE FORM OF THE GREAT BASILICA BUILT ON MOUNT
SIGN, AND THE SITUATION OF THAT MOUNTAIN
20
XX. THE LITTLE FIELD CALLED IN HEBREW AKELDEMAC 21
XXI. THE ROUGH AND ROCKY GROUND THAT EXTENDS FAR
AND WIDE, FROM JERUSALEM TO THE CITY OF
SAMUEL, AND TO CjESAREA OF PALESTINE TOWARDS
THE WEST 21
XXII. THE
MOUNT OF OLIVET, ITS HEIGHT AND THE
CHARACTER OF ITS SOIL
21
XXIII. THE PLACE OF THE ASCENSION OF THE LORD, AND
THE CHURCH BUILT ON IT 22
THE
SEPULCHRE
XXIV.
OF LAZARUS AND THE CHURCH BUILT
ABOVE IT, AND THE ADJOINING MONASTERY
26
XXV. ANOTHER CHURCH BUILT TO THE RIGHT OF BETHANY
26

XIII.

CONTENTS.

BOOK

vii

II.

CHAPTER
I.

II.

III.

IV.

PAGE
THE SITUATION OF BETHLEHEM
THE PLACE OF THE NATIVITY OF THE LORD, THE
CHURCH OF ST. MARY
THE ROCK SITUATED BEYOND THE WALL, UPON
WHICH THE WATER, IN WHICH HE WAS FIRST
WASHED AFTER HIS BIRTH, WAS POUREDANOTHER CHURCH, IN WHICH THE TOMB OF DAVID

IS

SEEN

28
28

29

30

THE CHURCH WITHIN WHICH IS THE SEPULCHRE


OF ST. HIERONYMUS (JEROME)
"3
VI. THE TOMBS OF THE THREE SHEPHERDS,
AROUND
WHOM, WHEN THE LORD WAS BORN, THE HEAVENLY
BRIGHTNESS SHONE AND THEIR CHURCH
30
Vn. THE SEPULCHRE OF RACHEL"31
"
VIIL HEBRON
3'
MAMBRE,
AND THE SEPULCHRE OF
IX. THE VALLEY OF
THE FOUR PATRIARCHS
"32
X. THE HILL AND THE OAK OF MAMBRE
"33
XL THE PINE-FOREST FROM WHICH FIREWOOD IS BROUGHT
TO JERUSALEM ON CAMELS
"34
V.

XIL JERICHO
XIII.

XIV.

"

"

AND THE TWELVE STONES WHICH THE


CHILDREN OF ISRAEL, AFTER CROSSING THE RIVER
JORDAN, TOOK FROM ITS DRIED CHANNEL
THE PLACE WHERE OUR LORD WAS BAPTIZED BY

35

GALGAL,

35

JOHN
36
THE COLOUR OF THE JORDAN AND THE DEAD SEA - 38
CONTINUEDXVI. THE DEAD SEA
-2)9
XVII. THE FOUNTAINS OF THE JORDAN
"39
XVIII. THE SEA OF GALILEE
40
"41
XIX. SICHEM AND THE WELL OF SAMARIA
XX. A LITTLE FOUNTAIN IN THE WILDERNESS 43
HONEY
XXL THE LOCUSTS AND THE WILD
43
XXII. THE PLACE WHERE THE LORD BLESSED THE FIVE
LOAVES AND THE TWO FISHES
"43
CAPHARNAUM
AND
TIBERIAS
"44
XXIH. THE SEA OF

XV.

CONTENTS.
PAGE

CHAPTER

NAZARETH AND ITS CHURCHES


"
XXV. MOUNT TABOR
XXVI. DAMASCUS
XXVII. TYRE XXVIIl. ALEXANDRIA, AND THE RIVER NILE AND
-

XXIV.

"45

"

--46

DILES

BOOK

"47

ITS

CROCO-

II.

III.

THE CITY OF CONSTANTINOPLE THE FOUNDATION OF THAT CITY


THE CHURCH IN WHICH THE CROSS OF THE LORD

PRESERVED
IV. ST. GEORGE THE CONFESSOR
V. THE PICTURE OF ST. MARY
VL MOUNT VULCAN EPILOGUE
VIL
-

48

III.
'

I.

47

"53
"53
IS

"55
"57
62

-63

64

THE VENERABLE BEDE CONCERNING


THE HOLY PLACES.
(

The numbers in parentheses show the corresponding chapters of Arculfus.)


PAGE

CHAPTER
I.

II.

(BOOK

THE SITUATION OF JERUSALEM. - 67


(cHAP. VII., VL, II., IIL, IV., v., VIIL, X.) THE CHURCH OF
CONSTANTINE AND OF GOLGOTHA, THE CHURCH OF
THE RESURRECTION AND THE SEPULCHRE OF THE LORD,
THE STONE THAT WAS ROLLED TO THE MOUTH OF
THE TOMB, THE CHURCH OF ST. MARY, THE CUP OF
THE LORD AND THE SPONGE, THE ALTAR OF ABRAHAM, THE soldier's SPEAR 68
THE
XXIII.)
TEMPLE,
THE
XIX.,
ORATORY
(l.,
OF THE
SARACENS, THE POOL OF BETHESDA, THE FOUNTAIN
QF SILOA, THE CHURCH BUILT UPON MOUNT SIGN,
THE PLACE OF THE STONING OF ST. STEPHEN, THE
MIDDLE OF THE WORLD
"7
I.,

CHAP.

I.)

HI.

CONTENTS.

ix

CHAPTER

PAGE

THE NAPKIN OF THE HEAD OF THE LORD, AND


ANOTHER LARGER LINEN CLOTH WOVEN BY ST. MARY
V. (xXL, XV., XVI., XIV.) THE PLACES ROUND JERUSALEM,
THE VALLEY OF JOSAPHAT, HIS SEPULCHRE AND
THOSE OF OTHERS, THE CHURCH IN WHICH ST. MARY
WAS BURIED
VL (XVIII., XX.) THE PLACE WHERE JUDAS WAS HANGED,
AND ACHELDEMAC
VII. (XXIL, XXIIL, XXIV., XXV.) THE MOUNT OF OLIVET AND
THE CHURCH BUILT THERE, WHERE THE LORD
ASCENDED INTO THE HEAVENS THE TOMB OF
L.AZARUS, AND A THIRD CHURCH
vin. (BOOK ir., CHAP. L, II., III., IV. v., vi., vii.) the
SITUATION OF BETHLEHEM, THE CHURCH UPON THE
PLACE WHERE THE LORD WAS BORN, THE SEPULCHRES
OF DAVID AND HIERONYMUS AND THE THREE SHEPHERDS, AND ALSO THAT OF RACHEL
IX. (VIIL, IX., X., XL) THE SITUATION OF HEBRON, MAMBRE,
AND THE TOMB OF THE PATRIARCHS AND OF ADAM,
THE PINE WOOD
X. (XIL, XIII.) JERICHO AND ITS HOLY PLACES, GALGAL
AND THE FOUNTAIN OF HELISEUS, THE GREAT
IV.

(XL, XII.)

PLAIN
XI.

(XV.,

XVII.,

XVIII.)

72

73

74

74

76

77

77

THE JORDAN AND THE SEA OF


'

GALILEE

79

THE DEAD SEA AND ITS NATURE, AND


THAT OF THE NEIGHBOURING DISTRICT
(XIV.) THE PLACE WHERE THE LORD WAS BAPTIZED
(XXL, XX.) THE LOCUSTS AND THE WILD HONEY, AND
THE FOUNTAIN OF JOHN THE BAPTIST
(XIX.) THE FOUNTAIN OF JACOB NEAR SICHEM
(xxn., XVIII., xxiii., XXIV.) tiberias and capharnaum
AND NAZARETH AND THE HOLY PLACES THERE
(XXV.) MOUNT TABOR AND THE THREE CHURCHES ON IT
(XXVI.) THE SITUATION OF DAMASCUS
(XXV-III.) THE SITUATION OF ALEXANDRIA, THE CHURCH
IN WHICH MARK THE EVANGELIST RESTS, AND THE

Xn. (xV., XVI.)

XIII.

XIV.

XV.
XVI.

XVII.
XVIII.

XIX.

NILE

....

80
82

82

83
83

84

84

84

CONTENTS.

PAGE

IHAPTER

XX.

XXI.

(BOOK

CONSTANTINOPLE, AND THE


BASILICA IN THAT CITY WHICH CONTAINS THE CROSS
-85
OF THE LORD

EPILOGUE

III.,

CHAP.

I.)

APPENDIX.
TRANSLATION OF PORTIONS OF ARCULF's NARRATIVE,' FROM
PROFESSOR WILLIS' 'HOLY SEPULCHRE'
'

87

PREFACE.
Nothing

known

appears to be

of Arculfus, the pilgrim of

work is a narrative, beyond the very


whose
slight notices of him contained in the work itself and in a
reference to it by the Venerable Bede in his 'Ecclesiastical
From these we learn that he was a native of
History.'
France (Gaul), and that at the time when he undertook the
journey referred to he had attained the rank of Bishop;
travels this

bur we have no information at

he presided.
in

It is stated

all

as to the see over which

by Bede

that his bishopric

was

France, and, although this might be a mere supposition

grounded on the references


not hesitate to accept
to the East

it

in the record itself,

as being correct.

was undertaken about the year

we need

His pilgrimage
a.d. 670, accord-

ing to the calculation of Dr. Tobler (Society de I'Orient


Latin),

and

it

must have occupied some

time.

He

spent

nine months in the city of Jerusalem (possibly during that

period he

may have made

shorter visits to the south or

the north of Palestine), and he gives us an account of the


chief places of interest to the west of the Jordan, including
in

the

the south, Bethlehem,

Dead

Sea,

and

Hebron, Jericho, Galgal, and

in the north,

Sichem, Mount Tabor,

Nazareth, the Sea of Galilee, and the sources of the Jordan.

After -extending his travels as

far as

Tyre and Damascus,

xu

PREFACE.

and returning

from Joppa to

Jerusalem, he sailed

to

Alexandria, taking forty days to accomplish the voyage.

From Egypt he

passed to Crete, spending some days there,

and thence to Constantinople, where he stayed

months

from Easter to Christmas.

wards he

visited

On

his

for

and proceeded to Rome.

Sicily

some

voyage homeHere,

however, his good fortune ceased, as the ship in which he

had hoped
caught
of

its

to

home

reach his

in a violent storm,

course that

it

was

we

of Scotland, and

after leaving

which drove

find Arculf 'at length, after

Adamnan,

Monastery of Hy, who, according


v.,

Scriptures,

received
so

cap.

to

to

willingly,

the

many

Abbot of the

Bede's narrative

be

and acquainted with the Holy

him most

much so

'found him

15),

so completely out

cast on one of the western points

dangers,' at lona, the guest of

(book

it

Rome was

learned

in

the

Places, so that he

and heard him more willingly

writing whatever he testified to be worthy of mention of


that he

that he himself caused to be at once committed to

had seen

in

the

Holy

Places.'

Adamnan, in

his

all

own

narrative, represents himself as sedulously asking Arculf to

him

tell

his experiences,

and writing them down

as they were dictated, on

waxed

tablets,

at once,

from which he

afterwards compiled this jvork, with such additional infor-

mation as he thought

it

advisable to insert from the works

of other writers with which he was acquainted, and with

the omission of a good deal of matter which was already


sufficiently well

known from

those other works.

had, in part of his travels, been accompanied

dian monk,

whom

he

and of whose haste he


to one

calls Peter,

MS. (Codex Caduinensis), had been

Holy Places in

in a

'

by a Burgun-

acted as his guide,

at times complains.

Peter, according
for a

long time

he was well acquainted with


Palestine, and he is represented as living

in exile for the Lord's

the

who

Arculf

solitary place,'

sake

which he was apparently desirous of

PREFACE.

xiii

returning to more hurriedly than accorded with the wishes


of his companion.
It

would be out of place to enter here on any general


and position of Adamnan, who is the

details as to the life

actual writer of this work.

native of Ireland (probably

of Donegal), where he was born in 624, belonging to a noble


family, he

known

is first

to us as entering the brotherhood

of lona, probably during the


abbot, 623-652.

abbacy of Seghine,

fifth

Here, during several years, he' so com-

mended himself
learning, that

to his brethren by his character and his


on the death of Failbhe, eighth abbot, in 679,

he was elected
other,

whether

his successor.
in

He had

at

some time

or in lona, been

Ireland

or

brought

in

contact with Aldfrid, the exiled prince of Northumbria,

who is spoken of in the Irish legends as the alumnus of


Adamnan. Whatever this relationship may have actually
been, it led Adamnan, on the restoration of Aldfrid in 685,
'

'

to undertake an

embassy

to his court, with a view (appar-

ently) to plead the cause of

some

Irish captives.

his account of this visit to Aldfrid that the

introduces his reference to this work

wrote a book about the Holy


to

many

readers

dictation,

was

its

real

Arculfus,

Places,

author,

by

French

'
:

It is in

Venerable Bede
This same

which

is

most useful

instruction

Bishop

man

and by

(Galliarum

who

for the sake of the Holy Places had gone


and having passed over all the Land of
Promise, visited also Damascus, Constantinople, Alexandria,

Episcopus),

to Jerusalem,

and many islands of the sea; and as he was returning to


his native land by sea, he was carried by the violence of a
tempest to the western shores of Britain

and

after

many

came to that servant of Christ, who has been


mentioned, Adamnan, who found him to be learned in the
Scriptures, and acquainted with the Holy Places, so that he
received him most willingly, and heard him more willingly;
[dangers], he

PREFACE.

xiv

SO

much

so that he himself caused to be at once committed

worthy of mention

to writing whatever he testified to be

of

all

that he had seen in the

a work, as

so to those

have

who

said,

which

Holy
is

of

Places.

much

And

use,

he made

and specially

are so far distant from those places in

which the patriarchs and the apostles lived that they can

them only what they can inform themselves


Now, Adamnan brought this book to
King Aldfrid, and by his liberality it was read by men of
humbler station. The writer also was himself presented
by him with many gifts, and sent back to his country
Eccles. Hist.,' book v., cap. 15).
The presentation of the
work to Aldfrid is postponed by Dr. Reeves to a second
journey made by Adamnan in 688, when he stayed for
some time in Northumbria.
The work, De Locis Sanctis,' thus written by Adamnan,
the first two of which are of
is divided into three books
about the same length, the third much shorter. The First
learn as to

about by reading.

('

'

Book opens with a description of the city of Jerusalem,


and proceeds to describe the Church of the Holy Sepulchre,
and the neighbouring

buildings, the description being of

the greatest importance, as showing the actual position (at


least, as

understood by the writer) at a period separated

from that of Antoninus Martyr, the next preceding pilgrim

whose narrative

is

in

our possession, by the Persian invasion

under Chosroes H., when the city was

by

that of the

all

but ruined, and

Arabs under the Caliph Omar.

been found to be practicable to insert


satisfactory note

in

this

It

has not

volume a

on these details as recorded from Arculf's

account, but this will follow later.

The

narrative

is

inter-

rupted by a long, and to the modern mind most useless,


chapter as to the napkin that covered the head of the Lord
in the

sepulchre,

and

it

account of the sites in

is

followed in this book

by an

the Valley of Jehoshaphat, the

PREFACE.

Mount

of Olives, and Bethany.

XV

The Second Book opens

with Southern Palestine, represented by Bethlehem and

Hebron, with the places of interest

in their

neighbourhood

then brings us again northward to Jericho, the

it

and the
thence

Dead

Sea,

Holy Places on and near the Jordan


passes somewhat erratically over Shechem, Mount
different

it

Tabor, Nazareth, the Sea of Galilee, the sources of the


Jordan, and closes with allusions to Damascus and Tyre,

and a longer description of Alexandria, with

The Third Book

its

harbour.

describes Constantinople, relates

marvellous incidents in connection with


Confessor, and, after a reference to

St.

some

George the

Mount Vulcan,

closes

with an Epilogue.

The work appears

to have attained very considerable

acceptance over Europe.

no

less

by the

Disfigured as

much

insertion of

that

is

simply rubbish, than by the omission of

it is

to our minds,

now regarded as
so much that we

should have greatly welcomed, the numerous copies of


scattered over the Continent

was
of

held.

it,

which

The Venerable Bede prepared an


is

also translated in this volume,

he inserted some portions


the

show the esteem

MSS. used by

in his history.

in

which

it
it

abbreviation

and of which

In addition to

Dr. Tobler for his edition of the work,

Germanus a Pratis
probably the Corbey MS. used by Mabillon

copies are found at the monastery of S.


(eighth century,
for

his

edition),

Berne (tenth century), at Rheinau

at

(eleventh century), and at Salzburg (ninth or tenth century)

(Reeves, pp.

8,

58).

The

first

printed edition was

published by Gretser, at lugoldstadt, in 1619, from a


sent to him by Father Rosweyd
(Proleg., p. 22).
in 1734,

The

'

MS.

ex intima Holandia

text was again published, at Venice,

from better manuscripts, by Mabillon (Actt. SS.

Ord. Bened., sec.

A certain

iii.,

part

2).

special interest

would attach to

this work, as

PREFACE.

xvi

the

undpubted

composition

of

the

of

prior

Scotic

monastery of lona, and some information might be gathered


from

it

as to the exact belief of the Celtic

questions, were

not that

it

disadvantage for

this

Adamnan

purpose of having so strenuously

Roman

endeavoured to introduce the

The

tract

visit to

King

Church.
second

Church on certain

labours under the

usages into that

must have been written before the


Aldfrid, during

which

his discussions

with Ceolfrid, Abbot of Jarrow, as to Easter and the


tonsure, resulted in his adoption of the
it

seems scarcely possible to use

who has, studied the


make some interesting

although one

be able to

it

Roman
in

usage; but

this connection,

question closely might

deductions as to the

customs of the Celtic Church.

Adamnan's other work,

Dr. Reeves, the editor of


Life of St.

Columba (published

and Celtic Society, Dublin, 1857; republished, with a


lation,

in

the series of

The

for the Irish Archaeological

'

'

'

The

Historians of

trans-

Scotland,'

Edinburgh, Edmonston and Douglas, 1874; the references


are to the former edition), says (p.

two Latin works, the

tract

'

De

Ixi.)

that

'

Of Adamnan's

Locis Sanctis

'

is

the better

and more flowing but it bears a striking resemblance to the other in many particulars of style, and
the use of peculiar words and phrases.'
As to the latter,
written

one has only, after studying the Latin text of the present
work, to turn to the Glossary provided by Dr. Reeves,
order to realize

works

is.

[I

how

similar the vocabulary of the

have to express

Glossary for aid

in

my

in

two

indebtedness to this

one or two cases, such as the peculiar

But if this work is really the


and more flowing of the two, one may
express one's condolence with Dr. Reeves in the difflculty
use of 'pyramis,' pp. 30, 31.]

better written

of the task he undertook, for even in this tract there are


several passages in which the author's

meaning

is

scarcely

PREFACE.
and wliere

distinguishable,

been specially the case


andria

to

make what

at the translation.

This has

one can do

all

seems to be the best guess

in the

whose assistance

friend,

as to another passage, p. -37, characterizes the

connection of the words as passing

Among

sion.

is

chapter dealing with Alex-

and a very distinguished

was asked

xvii

the

marked

human comprehen-

all

peculiarities that

recognises with Dr. Reeves, are

'

the liberal

one at once

employment

of diminutives, so characteristic of Irish composition, used

without any grammatical

same
atives

and commutable,

force,

chapters, with their primitives

and

intensitives

;'

;'

'

in

the

the use of frequent-

the occasional use of Greek or

unnatural, interweaving of his words in

and often
long sentences, and

the oft-recurring ablative absolute in

awkward

Greco-Latin words; 'above

(Reeves, p.

the

all,

artificial,

position

Ixi.).

Reference has been

Adamnan's

narrative

made already to the abbreviation of


made by the Venerable Bede, and a

work

translation of this

also included in this volume.

is

Nothing need be said as to

its

author, and

it is

useless to

ask whether there can have been any connection at

between him and Adamnan.


nothing more than

'

way

felt

professes to have

done

follow trustworthy histories^ and espe-

cially that of Arculf, a

not in any

He

all

Bishop of Gaul

bound

'

(p. 87).

He

has

to follow the order of the former

work, but has at times shown considerable ingenuity in


passing from page to page.

He

traverses practically the

whole range of that narrative, but

in

about one-third of

the space.

Bede, after referring to the work of

passage

already quoted,

devotes

'Ecclesiastical History' (book


this

work of

his

longer narrative.

own
It

in

v.,

Adamnan

in

the

two chapters of

his

16, 17) to extracts from

which he has abbreviated the

seems to have been generally assumed

PREFACE.

xviii

Bede has

that the extracts are from the larger work, and

used words in introducing them that certainly favour the


idea and might mislead writers

word
both

but they are taken almost

word from the shorter tract, and differ altogether


form and in language from the former text. They

for
in

consist of the following passages:

the last sentencej cap.

ii.,

cap.

cap.
vii.,

viii.,
i

The misapprehension

the last sentence,

i,

except

ix.,

except

cap.

as to the exact

source has been shared by Dr. Reeves in both editions of


of

his 'Life
'

Adamnan

Biography'

Columba,' and also

St.
in

(vol.

Smith's

Dr.
i.,

on 'Arculf

article

The

'

that

in

sive

p. 303),

but there

is

article

(vol.

i.,

been at times known as

de Locis

Sanctis,'

'

Bede

no reason

'

in

and

is

on

Christian

of

Mr. Deedes

Dictionary

only under the former part of this

Oxford, in his notice of

his

in

Dictionary

p. 42), as well as

tract has apparently

de Situ Jerusalem,

'

'

in
p.

his

154)

Libellus

referred to

by the Bishop of
the same work (vol

title

i.,

for regarding this otherwise

than as a mistake.
translation has been

The

made

as literal as possible in

passages where the exact rendering was of any controversial or archseological importance, as in the description

of sites and buildings

freedom has been used.

but in some other cases greater

There has been inserted as an

Appendix, at the suggestion of Sir Charles


rendering of some passages as given

in

W.

Wilson, the

Professor Willis'

Holy Sepulchre.' Sir Charles Wilson has also contributed


some notes of special value, besides making several im'

portant suggestions as to the translation.

The

text used

(Itinera

et

is

that of the Society de I'Orient Latin,

Descriptiones Terrae Sanctae

Lingua Latina,

IV.-XL Exarata, sumptibus Societatis Illustrandis


Orientis Latini Monumentis, edidit T. Tobler, Geneva, 1877,
Ssec.

i->

PP-

'

39-240)'

The

variations of the different

MSS. have

PREFACE.

xix

been noted when the sense was


the readings of the

in any way affected, and


Codex Caduinensis have been specially

That MS. of the twelfth century gives a greatly


abbreviated text, with a few interesting additions. These
noted.

additions are always given, but the notice of the omissions

would have involved the preparation of a separate translation,

which would have been without any gain.

has in a similar

way appended

to the text of

Tobler

Bede the

somewhat shorter text of the Codex Wirziburgensis, a


MS. of the ninth century, but in this case there are no such
additions to note.

The

following are the

MSS. used by Tobler:

ARCULFUS DE LOCIS SANCTIS.


L. British

Museum, Cotton.

Tib. D.V.,

folio, viii.-ix. cent.

B. Public Library of Brussels, 292, small quarto, ix. cent.

Bern. Library of the City of Berne, 582, quarto, ix. cent.


P.

National Library, Paris, Lat. 13048,

P.

National Library of Paris, Lat. 12943,

G.

Abbey
Abbey

C.

ix.

of St. Gall, 320, small octavo,


of Caduinum, smallest

V. Vatican Library, 636, A,


R. Library of

Queen

cent.

xi. cent.

xii.

cent.

folio, xii. cent.

folio, xiii, cent.

Christina (Rome), 618, xv. cent.

BEDA VENERABILIS DE LOCIS SANCTIS.


Ma. Public Royal Libraryof Monaco,6389,quarto,ix.cent.

W. Library

of the University of Wirtzburg,

f 74, folio,

Mp. Th.

ix. cent.

Med. Ambrosian Library of Milan,

x. cent.

Pa. National Library of Paris, Lat. 2321, x, cent.

Mb. Public Royal Library of Monaco, 13002,

larger folio,

xii. cent.

Pb. National Library of Paris, Lat. 14797, xii. cent.

PREFACE.

XX
L. British

Museum, Cotton.

Faust.

A.,

quarto,

vii.,

xii.-xiii. cent.

O. Lincoln's College, Oxford, 96,

xiii.

cent.

Pc. National Library of Paris, Lat. 12277, xv. cent.


References to Antoninus Martyr, the Bordeaux Pilgrim, the Abbot
Daniel,

etc.,

are to the translations already published

by

this Society.

References to Dr. Reeves' works are to the edition of the

Columba' published at the University Press, Dubhn,


ArchEeolOgical and Celtic Society, 1857.
St.

'

Life of

for the Irish

J.

R. M.

ARCULF'S NARRATIVE ABOUT THE

HOLY PLACES, WRITTEN BY ADAMNAN.


INTRODUCTION.
In, the

name

Spirit, I

am

of the Father, of the Son, and of the Holy

about to write a book concerning the Holy

Places.

Arculf, a holy bishop, a Gaul

with

many

witness,!

who dwelt
Adamnan,

sedulously asked
first I

nation, well acquainted

far distant lands, a truthful


in

that

all

him

and

is

to tell

Holy Places by

worthy

narrative,

daily visits,

hereafter to be written, as

me

his experiences,

wrote down on tablets as he dictated

and unimpeachable

right

the city of Jerusalem for a space of

nine months, and examined the


told me,

by

and now

in

which at

a faithful

briefly inscribe

upon

parchment [membranes],
1' Judge,' 5., P. 12943, C.
2 'This record is an important item in the history of writing, as
showing the collateral and respective uses among the Irish of waxed
tablets and membranes for literary purposes, towards the close of the
Compare, pp. 5, 8; also, 'I
seventh century' (Reeves, p. Iviii.).
noted down a brief but faithful abridgment of it in my tablets, which
I will now endeavour to commit succinctly to my parchment' (Orderic,

quoted by Dean Church, 'St. Anselm,' 1888, p.


sentence, the word used for 'write' means literally
the action of the stylus in wax.

55).

In the

first

'scratch,' denoting

ARC ULP'S NARRATIVE ABOUT THE

BOOK

I.

The Situation of Jerusalem, the Gates of

I.

THE

the Yearly Market, the Site of the


Temple, the Oratory of the Saracens, the
Great Houses.

As

City,

we

to the situation of Jerusalem,

shall

now

write a

few of the details that the sainted Arculf dictated to me,

Adamnan

but what

the position of that


circuit of its walls,

found

is

we

city,

the books of others as to

in

shall pass over.

In the great

Arculf counted eighty-four towers and

twice three gates, which are placed in the following order


in the circuit of the city

Mount

side of

Sion,

is

The Gate

reckoned

the Place of the Fuller^

of David, on the west

first

second, the Gate of

Gate of

third, the

St.

Stephen

The reading of C. in this passage is


Second, the Gate of the
Fuller's Road
third, the Gate of St. Stephen, where he was stoned
'

'

fourth, the

Gate of Benjamin

;' fifth,

a small gate, where one hastens

down by steps to the Valley of Josaphat sixth, the Gate ThecuitisJ


As to the position of these gates, see The City of Jerusalem,' p. 4.
I. The Gate of David must have been close to the present Jaffa Gate.
Somewhat to the north of it, a wall was built across the northern brow
of Mount Sion to the edge of the clifif overhanging the causeway at
;

'

Wilson's Arch (cf Bord.

Pil., p. 59).
There was no gate in this wall, or
northwards from it. II. The Gate of the Place of
the Fuller 'must have been to the west of the Damascus Gate
its name
"Porta Vilte [Vise C] FuUonis" being so named from "the Highway

in the wall leading

'

'

of the Fuller's Field " (Isaiah

by the Bordeaux Pilgrim,


ei

Jacob

"

(p. 18).

It

also

vii. 3).

Villa

is

used in the sense of "

field

"

" ubi positus est

means

Joseph in villa quam dedit


" farm," " country house," or " place,"

as in the "Villa Pampati," "Villa Job," etc., of the Bordeaux Pilgrim


and the "Villa Publica" or "Place of Assembly" in the Campus

Martius' [C.
Crusaders.

W.
III.

W.].

It

is

the 'Postern of St.

The Gate of St. Stephen'


'

is

Lazarus' of the

the present

Damascus

HOLY
fourth, the
Httle gate,

PLACES, WRITTEN
;

This then

Gate Thecuitis.

sixth, the
is

the order round the intervals between those

and towers

David

from the

above-mentioned

gate

of

turns towards the northern part of the circuit,

it

and thence towards the

But although

east.

counted in the

walls, yet

gates are niore

commonly frequented

part of the walls with

its

Mount

from the south), as

the

one to the west,


east

while

that

interposed towers, which extends

Gate of David

above-mentioned

the

northern brow of

six gates are

those the entries of three

of

another to the north, a third to

from

Gate of Benjamin fifth, a portlet, that is a


by which is the descent by steps to the Valley

of Josaphat

gates

BY ADAMNAN.

the

across

Sioni (which overhangs the city

far as the face of that

looks eastwards, where the rock

is

mountain which

precipitous,

is

proved to

have no gates.

But

this toOj

it

seems to me, should not be passed over,

which the sainted Arculf, formerly spoken


the honour of that city in Christ

month

of September

of various nations

of,

told us as to

fifteenth

day of the

yearly, an almost countless multitude

is in

the habit of gathering from

to Jerusalem for the purposes of

and purchase.

On the

Whence

of various nations stay

it

all

sides

commerce by mutual

sale

necessarily happens that crowds

in

some

that hospitable city for

days, while the very great

number

of their camels and

IV. The Gate of. Benjamin is


Gate, see Abbot Daniel, Appendix I.
Bab ez Zahrah, or Herod's Gate, east of the Damascus Gate (now

the

V.

closed).

(closed)

by which
Paula,

This Postern must have been near the Golden Gate


alluded to by Antoninus, p. 14. VI. The Gate Thecuitis,
probably meant the Gate of Tekoa (the Thecua of St.
now Khurbet Tekua), is now the Bab el Maghiribeh, or

it is

is

p. 10,

'

'

Dung Gate, on the south wall towards the east. The names of
the gates have varied very greatly, and have been to a considerable
extent interchanged at different periods.
On the position of Sion, as accepted in the fourth and following

the

'

centuries, see Bord.

Pil.,

Appendix

IV., pp. 56-62.


I

ARCULF'S NARRATIVE ABOUT THE


horses and asses, not to speak of mules and oxen, for their

and

varied' baggage, strews the streets of the city here

the abominations of their excrements

there with

the

smell of which brings no ordinary nuisance to the citizens

Wonderful to say,
and even makes walking difficult.
on the night after the above-mentioned day of departure
with the various beasts of

immense abundance of
which washes

city,

streets,

the crowds, an

of

from the clouds on that

the abominable

all

and cleanses

burden

rain falls

from

filths

For the

from the uncleannesses.

it

the

very situation of Jerusalem, beginning from the northern

brow of Mount Sion, has been so disposed by


God, on a

lofty^ declivity, sloping

down

its

Founder,

the lower

to

ground of the northern and eastern walls that that over-

abundance of

rain cannot settle at all in the streets, like

stagnant water, but rushes down, like


higher to the lower ground

from the

rivers,

and further this inundation of

the waters of heaven, flowing through the eastern gates,

and bearing with

it

all

the filthy abominations, enters the

Valley of Josaphat and swells the torrent of Cedron

and

having

after

thus baptized Jerusalem,

abundance of rain always


must

in

no negligent manner note

chosen and glorious city


Sire,8

Hence

ceases.

Who

is

in

this

over-

what honour

honoured

But

sites

in that

this

to remain longer filthy, but

it

because of the honour of His Only Begotten cleanses


it

we

therefore

held in the sight of the Eternal

does not permit

quickly, since

has within

the circuit of

its

walls

it

so

the

of His sacred Cross and Resurrection.

renowned* place where once the Temple had

been magnificently constructed, placed

hood of the wall from the

east,

in

the neighbour-

the Saracens

now

frequent

a four-sided house of prayer, which they have built rudely,


1

'

Of

'

Judge and

the different carriers,' G.


Sire,' B.,

V.,

R.

2
'

'

'

slight

'

in

MSS,

Beautiful,' in

except L.

some MSS.

HOL V PLACES, WRITTEN B V ADAMNAN.


constructing

by

it

raising boards and great

remains of ruins:

this

house can,

it

beams on some
hold three

said,

is

thousand men at once.

when we asked him about the dweUings of that


answered
I remember that I both saw and visited

Arculf,
city,

'

many

buildings of that city, and that

very often observed

good many great houses ^ of stone through the whole of


the large city, surrounded by walls, formed with marvellous
skill.'
But all these we must now, I think, pass over, with
a

the exception of the structure of those buildings which

have been marvellously built in the Holy Places, those


namely of the Cross and the Resurrection as to these we
:

asked Arculf very carefully, especially as to the Sepulchre


of the Lord and the Church constructed over

which Arculf himself depicted

of

for

me

it,

the form

on a

tablet

covered with wax.^

The Round Church

built above the Sepulchre OF the Lord.

II.

And
which

Church,^ the whole of

certainly this very great

of stone, was formed of marvellous roundness in

is

every part, rising up from the foundations

in three walls,

which have one roof

having a broad

at a lofty elevation,*

pathway between each wall and the next


three

altars

middle

in

there are also

dexterously formed places of the

three

This round and very large church, with

wall.^

the above-mentioned

altars,

looking

one to the

another to the north, a third towards the west,


1

'Domos

grandes.'

by Adamnan
(Reeves,

p.

The phrase 'domus magna,'

in his 'Life of St.

Cdlumba'

Corhpare

For Professor

'Which

'

p. I.

Willis' translation, see

elevation

In the middle of the

'

in L. only.

wall,'

G,

south,

supported

or 'major,'

is

used

in the sense of 'monastery.'

216 n.)

is

Appendix.

ARCULF'S NARRATIVE ABOUT THE


by twelve stone columns of marvellous
four gates, that

is

It

size.

has twice

four entrances, through three firmly built

walls which break

upon the pathways

in

a straight line, of

which four means of exit look to the north-east^ (which


also called the

'

is

cecias' wind), while the other four look to

the south-east.

The Form of the Sepulchre

III.

itself

and

its

Little Cabin.
In the middle of the interior of this round house

round cabin (tugurium)^ cut out

which

men

in

is

one and the same rock,

can pray standing

and from the


head of a man of ordinary stature as he stands, up to the
in

thrice' three

arch of that small house, a foot and a half

The

upwards.

entrance of this

and the whole outside


its

highest point

is

no small

cross of

is

little

covered with choice marble, while

In the northern part of this cabin

size.

the inside, but the pavement of the cabin


the place of the Sepulchre; for from
1

east

measured

adorned with gold, and supports a golden

the Sepulchre of the Lord, cut out in the

is

is

cabin looks to the east,

its

same rock
is

in

lower than

pavement up

to the

VulUirnus, variously explained as the north-east and as the southwind here (and in Bede, p. 69) the former. Cecias is the Greek
;

KaiKiag,

the north-east wind.

(The MSS. give the various readings

'calcias,' 'calceas,' 'hetias,' 'caluar.')


'

The words

p. xvii.),

'

tugurium,'

tuguriolum,' used here interchangeably (see

'

are of frequent occurrence in

Adamnan's

Life of St.

Columba,

used specially of the abbot's domus, or hospitium, or hospitiolum, at


some distance from the huts of wattles or of wood in which the other

luembers of the community lived it was built of wood with joists,


and stood on an eminence here the founder sat and wrote, or read.
;

The

other huts are often spoken of as cellula, the

scribing the monastery on

of

some MSS.

is

Mount Tabor,

p. 46.

word used

in.

de-

The form tegurium

the Irish orthography (Reeves, pp. 360, 455).

It is

a suitable rendering for the word here. At Sir Charles


Wilson's suggestion. Professor Willis' translation, cabin, has been
difficult to find

adopted.

'

Three,' B., Bern., G., C.

HOL Y PLA CES, WRITTEN BY A DAMNAN.

edge of the side of the Sepulchre a measure^ of about three


palms is reckoned. So Arculf, who used often to visit the
Sepulchre of the Lord and measured

it

most accurately, told

me.

Here we must

Tomb

the

refer to the difference of

and

Sepulchre

the

names between
round cabin

that

for

which we have often mentioned, the Evangelists called by

Tomb

another name, the

That place

rose.

Sepulchre, which

they speak of the stone rolled to

linen cloths

the

properly called

is

the northern side of the Tomb, in which

when

buried, rested, rolled in the

the length of which Arculf measured with his

own hand and found


not, as

mouth, when the Lord

its

the cabin

in

is in

the body of the Lord,

is

mouth, and rolled back from

its

some

Now

to be seven feet.

this

Sepulchre

think, double, having a projection

left

from

the solid rock, parting and separating the two legs and the

two thighs, but

man

holding a
soles.

It is in

is

wholly single, affording a bed capable of

lying-

on

his

back from

his

head even to

the manner of a cave, having

its

his

opening at

the side, and opposite^ the south part of the sepulchral


chamber. The low roof is artificially wrought above it. In
the Sepulchre there are further twelve lamps according to
the number^ of the twelve Apostles, always burning day

and

night, four of

which are placed down below

in

the

lowest part of the sepulchral bed, while the other twice


four are placed higher above

its

edge on the right hand

they shine brightly, being nourished with

But

seems that

it

Mausoleum
1

'

to the

should be noted, that the

or Sepulchre of the Saviour (that

From knee

ment

this also

'

or

'

thumb

to ear,' B., V.

Sepulchre of the Lord

wj:iere

C. reads,

He

'

lay, is

is,

'A cave having


'

Rule,'

'

MSS.

the pave-

a height of four

in the entlrancean altar opposite,' Z,

names,' in some

the often-

From

fingers.'

'

oil.

ARCULF'S NARRATIVE ABOUT THE

mentioned cabin),

may

rightly be called a Grot or Cave,

concerning our Lord Jesus

concerning which, that

is

to say,

Christ being buried in

it,

the prophet prophesied

'He

dwell in a most lofty cave of a most strong rock.'^


a

little

gladden the Apostles, there

after, to

about the Resurrection of the Lord


with glory.'

The

'
:

Ye shall

is

shall

And

inserted

see the King

frontispiece shows,

accordingly, the

above-named church with the round

little

in its centre, in the northern side of -which

is

form of the
cabin placed
the Sepulchre

of the Lord, and also the forms of the other three churches

about which we

shall

We have drawn

speak below.

these figures of the four churches accord-

ing to the model which, as has been said above, the sainted

Arculf drew on a waxed tablet/ not that a likeness of them


can be given

in

the Lord, be

it

a drawing, but in order that the


in

Tomb

of

however poor a representation, may be

shown placed in the middle of the round church, and that


the church more properly belonjjing to this, or the one
placed further
IV.

off,

may

be

made

The Stone that was

c|ear.

the Mouth
OF the Tomb, wpuch Tni Angel of the Lord,
descending from HEAyEN AFTER HiS RESURRECTION, ROLLED BACK
THE ChAPEL, AND THE
rjOlled to
i

;^'

Sepulchre.
But among these things,
briefly

it seems that one ought to tell


about the stone, mentioned above, which was rolled

mouth of the Tomb of the Lord, after the burial of


Lord slain"* by many men
which, Arculf
relates, was broken and divided into two parts, the smaller
of which, rough hewn with tools, is seen placed as a square
to the

the crucified

Isaiah xxxiii. i6.

'

See page

i.

^ j^^
Betrayed

ji^^^_
<

'

in

MSS.

except L.

HOLY PLACES, WRITTEN BY ADAMNAN.


altar

the round ehurch,

in

mouth of

Tomb

described

above, before the

that often-mentioned cabin, that

is,

the Lord's

hewn

while the larger part of that stone, equally

around, stands fixed in the eastern part of that church as

another four-sided altar under linen cloths.

As

to the colours of that rock,

which that often-

in

mentioned chapel was hollowed out by the tools of hewers,


which has,

in its

northern side, the Sepulchre of the Lord

and the same rock

cut out of one

in

which

is

also the

is,
the cabin, Arculf when questioned by
That Cabin of the Lord's Tomb is in no way
ornamented on the inside, and shows even to this day over

Tomb,

that

me, said

surface the traces of the tools, which the hewers or

all its

excavators used in their work


of the

Tomb

the colour of that rock both

and of the Sepulchre

not one, but two

is

colours seem to have been intermingled,

whence

white,

namely red and

also that rock appears two-coloured.

what has been said

as to these points let

But

suffice.

The Church of St. Mary which adjoins the


Round Church.

V.

As

to

details

the buildings

of

the

holy places,

some

must be added. The four-sided Church of

the mother of the Lord,

is

been so often mentioned

also called the Anastasis, that

is

Resurrection, because

it

was

Mary,

adjoined on the right side by

that round church which has

above, and which

St.

few

built

is

the

on the spot of the Lord's

Resurrection.

VI.

built on the Site of


Calvary.

The Church that

is

Another very large church, looking eastwards, has been


built on that place which, in Hebrew, is called Golgotha,^
i

C. adds,

'

but in Latin,

Mount

Calvary.'

ARCULF'S NARRATIVE ABOUT THE

lo

high up

lamps

which a great circular chandelier of brass with

in

hung by

is

great cross of

below which has been

ropes,

silver, fixed

in

set

up a

same spot where once

the

stood fixed the wooden Cross, on which suffered the Saviour


of the

human

below the
offered

race.

same church

In the

site

on an

a cave has been cut out in the rock

of the Cross of the Lord, where sacrifice

altar for the souls of certain specially

is

honoured

persons whose bodies are meanwhile placed lying in a courts


before the gate of that Church of Golgotha, until the holy

mysteries on their behalf are finished.

The

VII.

Basilica which Constantine built close

above-named CHURCH ON THE _SpOT


WHERE THE CROSS OF THE LORD, WHICH HAD
BEEN BURIED IN RUINS, WAS FOUND, WHEN AFTER
MANY Centuries the Earth was dug up.
TO THE

This four-sided church, built on the

site

of Calvary,

is

adjoined on the east by the neighbouring stone Basilica,


constructed with

which

is

great

reverence by

King Constantine

also called the Martyrium,^ built, as

that spot where the Cross of the

is

said,

on

Lord, which had been

hidden away under the earth, was found with the other

two crosses of the robbers,


thirty-three years,

after a period of

two hundred and

by the permission of the Lord Himself

VIII. The Site of the Altar of Abraham.


Between these two churches
where the patriarch Abraham
1

'

2
'

Platea,' see next page, note

Monastery'

the Basilica the

by Eusebius
^

On

p. 96.

in

some MSS.

name

to the

of

lies

built

that

an

illustrious

altar,^ laid

on

place
it

the

i.
'

Arculf appears to have applied to


of the Resurrection," given

"The Martyrium

whole group of Constantine's buildings,'

.'The Altar of Abraham,' see

C. W. W.
Abbot Daniel, Appendix IL,

HOLY

and seized the drawn sword to

of wood,

pile

own

sacrifice his

BY ADAMNAN.

PLACES, WRITTEN

son, Isaac

where

now

is

ii

offer

wooden

in

table

of considerable size on which the alms of the poor are

by the people. This also the sainted Arculf added,


enquired of him more diligently Between the Anastasis,

offered
as I

that

is

the round church

and the Basilica

we have

often mentioned above,

of Constantine, lies a small square extend-

ing to the Church of Golgotha, where lamps burn always by

day and

night.i

IX. The Recess situated between the Church of


Calvary and the Basilica of Constantine, in
which are kept the cup of the lord and the
Sponge from which, as He hung on the Tree,
He DRANK Vinegar and Wine.
Between that
there

is

He

Lord, which

Golgotha and the Martyrium^

Basilica of

Cup of the
and gave with His own hand to

a recess (exedra)

blessed

which

in

is

the

He

the Apostles in the supper on the day before


as

He

and they

sat at

meat with one another

suffered,

the cup

is

of silver, holding the measure of a French quart,* and has

two

little

cup also
the Lord
'

handles placed on

'

Between these churches

of Golgotha, which

small square'

is

side.

who were

In this

crucifying

with vinegar and, putting it on hyssop, offered

marble, extending as

'

one on each

the sponge which those

is

filled

C. reads,

it,

a small square covered with

is

far as the Basilica of

is

Constantine and the Church

The word here rendered

extremely beautiful.'

plateola,

'

a green' or

'

a court

'

within the enclosure

of a Scotic monastery, surrounding or beside which were the lodgings


of the community (Reeves, p. 360).
Z?., P. 12943, V., R.
a small chamber, or chapel, attached to the side of a

'Testimony,'

'Exedra'

church;

the 'cubiculum' or 'separatum

monastery.

Josephus
"

is

The Greek word

in reference to the

(I^E^pa)

is

conclave'

of the

Scotic

of frequent occurrence in

Temple (Reeves,

pp. 224, 444).

Sextariiis, the sixth- part of a congitis, or gallon.

ARCULF'S NARRATIVE ABOUT THE

12

to His mouth.

drank

The

apostles.

From

same cup,

He

saw

sainted Arculf

own hand, and

his

the

His Resurrection, as

after

kissed

it.

as

is

Lord

said, the

sat at meat with the


it

and touched

it

with

through the opening of the

perforated cover of the case within which

it

is

concealed

indeed, the whole people of the city resort greatly to this

cup with immense veneration.

X. The Spear

of the Soldier with which


PIERCED THE SiDE OF THE LORD.

he

Arculf also saw that .spear of the soldier with which he

smote through the side of the Lord as

The

spear

is

fixed in a

wooden

Basilica of Constantine,

parts

and

kisses,

its

He hung on the

Cross.

cross in the portico of the

shaft being broken into

two

this also the v/hole city of Jerusalem resorts to,

and venerates.

XL The

Napkin with which the Head of the


Lord was covered in the Sepulchre.^

As

to the sacred napkin which

of the Lord in the Sepulchre,

learn from the narrative

with his own eyes.


The whole people of Jerusalem bear witness to the truth
of the narrative we now write.
For on the testimony of
of the sainted Arculf,

who

was placed upon the head^

we

inspected

it

several faithful citizens of Jerusalem, the sainted Arculf

learned this statement which they very often repeated to


as he listened attentively

him

certain trustworthy believing

Jew, immediately after the Resurrection of the Lord, stole

from His Sepulchre the sacred linen cloth and hid


house
it

for

many days;

was found

but,

C. places this chapter at the

C. adds,

and the body.'

in his

by the favour of the Lord Himself,

after the lapse of

'

it

many

end of the

years,
first

and was brought

Book.

HOLY PLACES, WRITTEN BY ADAMNAN.

13

to the notice of the whole people about three years^ before

made to Arculf j.^ That happy, faithful


when at the point of death, sent for his two sons, and,
showing them the Lord's napkin, which he had at first
statement was

[this

thief,

abstracted furtively, offered

the choice

is

now

it

to them, saying

Therefore

given to you.

let

say which he rather wishes to choose, so that

'
:

My

boys,

each of you
I

may know
own

without doubt to which of you, according to his


choice,

shall

bequeathe

which only

to

hearing

this,

this

the one

wealth, received

made

to

it

all

sacred

the substance

from his
will.

On

napkin of the Lord.'

who wished

him under the

have, and

father,

to obtain all his sire's

according to a promise

Marvellous to say, from that

day all his riches and all his patrimony, on account of


which he sold the Lord's napkin, began to decrease, and all
that he had was lost by various misfortunes and came to
nothing.
blessed
all his

While the other blessed son of the above-named

thief,

who chose

the Lord's napkin in preference to

patrimony, from the day when he received

it

from

the hand of his dying

sire, became, by the gift of God,


more and more rich in earthly substance, and was by no
means deprived of heavenly treasure. And thus this napkin
of the Lord was faithfully handed down as an heirloom
by the successive heirs of this thrice blessed man to their

believing sons
generation.

in

regular succession,

even to the

But many years having now passed, believing

heirs of that kindred failed, after the fifth generation,

the sacred linen cloth


Three hundred

came

suggested by various editors.

'

C. reads, instead of next three sentences,

'

is

point of death, he said to his two sons


faithfully to receive the

the one

who had

'

My

And when he was at the


who of you would

sons,

napkin of the Lord? On hearing


sire's wealth according to his

received his

received the napkin that has been spoken


brother.'

and

hands of unbelieving

into the

wish

fifth

of,

and sold

it

to his

this,
will,

own

ARCULF'S NARRATIVE ABOUT THE

14

Jews, who, while unworthy of such an


it

honourably and, by the

office,

yet embraced,

the Divine bounty, were

gift of

greatly enriched with very diverse riches.

But an accurate

narrative about the Lord's napkin having spread

began

people, the believing Jews

among

the

contend bravely with

to

the unbelieving Jews about the sacred linen cloth, desiring

with

might to obtain possession of

their

all

common

that arose divided the

and the

parties, the faithful believers

Upon

and the

strife

faithless unbelievers.

King of the Saracens, was

Mavias,! the

this,

it,

people of Jerusalem into two

appealed to by both parties to adjudicate between them, and

he said to the unbelieving Jews who were persistently


taining the Lord's napkin ?

my

which you have into

command, they bring


bosom.

his

ordered a great

people, and while

going up to the
a loud voice

who

Now
now

casket and place

its

in

it

with great reverence, the king

made

square before

in the

fiercely,

all

the

he rose, and

addressed both contending parties

suffered for the

napkin, which

it

was burning

it

fire,
'

from

it

to be

fire

In obedience to the king's

hand.'

Receiving

re-

Give the sacred linen cloth

'

let Christ,

the Saviour of the world,

human

race,

hold

my

in

in

upon whose head

bosoiji,

and

this

as to which

you are now contending, was placed in the Sepulchre, judge


between you by the flame of fire^^ so that you may know
to which of these

two contending hosts

most worthily be entrusted.'

Saying

may

this great gift


this,

he threw the

sacred napkin of the Lord into the flames, but the

way touch

could in no

from the
1

L.,

'

fire, it

Mavius

;'

Caliph, 66l
'

began to

a^/iers,

the founder of the

it,

'

for,

fly

rising

whole and untouched

on high,

like a bird with out-

Majuvias,' 'Navias

Omeyyad

;' C, 'Nauvias.'
Muivia,
dynasty, Caliph of Syria, a.d. 658 sole
;

died, 680.

In the sight of the Christian Jews

P. 12943.

fire

who were

present,'

K,

R.,

HOL V PLA CES, WRl TTEN BY ADA MNA N.


spread wings, and looking

two contending
air for

it

flew round

if

in

some moments then slowly descending, under


,

it

inclined towards the party of the

Christians,

who meanwhile prayed

Judge, and

finally

to heaven,

it

with great honour, a

gift to

it,

and put

away

Raising their

receive the Lord's napkin

be venerated as sent to them

they render praises

who gave

bosom.

and bending the knee with great gladness,

God and

from heaven

earnestly to Christ, the

settled in their

they give thanks to

it

one another as

armies in battle array,

the guidance of God,

hands

a great height on the

parties, placed opposite

they were two

mid

down from

and they cover


in

it

in their

up

in

hymns

to Christ,

another linen cloth

a casket of the church.

Our brother Arculf saw it one day taken out of the


and amid the multitude of the people that kissed it,

casket,

he himself kissed

it

measures about eight

been said
1

in

an assembly of the church;

feet^ in length.^

As to

it

let

it

what has

suffice.

'Cubits' in some

MSS.

the margin of C. there is added in the handwriting of the


But afterwards it came into the possession of the
fifteenth century
2

On

'

Bishop of Anicia, who had made a voyage in the districts beyond the
sea and he, dying there, gave it to one who was his priest. This
the precious gift to
priest also died as he was crossing the sea, leaving
a cleric who served him. He, when he was in the country of Petragora,
where he was born, placed the napkin of the Lord in a church which
was recommended to him, near Caduinum. And not long after he
had left the church one day, a fire broke out in a [the nearest] farm
it did not
and also in that church, and burned whatever it found but
preserved, and which was
touch the casket in which the napkin was
brothers, who were lately
near the altar. On hearing this, some of the
they had found the
when
and
thither,
hastened
Caduinum,
staying at
taking the " barietum," where the
casket, they broke it by force, and,
them very quickly and
napkin of the Lord was, they brought it with
year of the Lord 1512.
deposited it in their own monastery about the
went on to Caduinum, and
But the cleric, not finding the treasure,
monk's habit, and as long
the
on
put
he
it,
recover
not
when he could
formeriy possessed.'
he lived, he guarded there what he had
;

as

ARCULF'S NARRATIVE ABOUT THE-

i6

Another Sacred
Mary the

XII.

SAID, St.

Cloth which,

Linet^

as

is

Mother of the

Virgin, the

Lord, wo,ve.
Arculf saw also

in that city

cloth of larger size, which, as

which, on that account,

Church and by

of Jerusalem another linen


is

the people.

all

Mary wove, and

said, St.

held in great reverence in the

is

In this linen cloth the

forms of the twelve Apostles are woven, and the likeness


of the Lord Himself

is

figured

one side of the linen cloth

of red colour, while the opposite side

is

green, i

is

The Lofty Column situated on the Spot


where a Dead Young Man came to Life again,
WHEN the Cross of the Lord was placed on
him AND THE MIDDLE OF THE WORLD.

Xin.

We

must speak

briefly

about a very lofty column, stand-

ing in the middle of the city, which meets one coming

from the sacred places northwards.

This column

on that spot where a dead young man came to

when the Cross

of the

vellously in the

summer

comes

when the solstice

is

when

solstice at mid-day,

passed, which

it

the sun

no shadow

lessens,

it

column, which the brightness of the sun

solstice

at

mid-day, as

heaven,3 shining straight

for

casts a

first

in the

Thus

summer

stands in the centre of

it

down from

above, shines upon

round from every quarter, proves that the


situated in the middle of the earth.

is

up

again

the 24th^ of June, after

is

day gradually

casts

short shadow, then a longer one as the days pass.


this

set

Lord was placed on him, and mar-

to the centre of the heaven,

three days, as the

is

life

the
all

city of Jerusalem

Whence

also the

Psalmist, prophesying on account of the sacred sites of the


1

Of

23rd,' L.

the colour of green herbs,' B., P. 12943.


3

'

Pole,' B..

P. 12943,

f^-,

R-

HOLY PLACES, WRITTEN BY ADAMNAN.

17

Passion and the Resurrection which are contained within


that ^lia, sings

'
:

But God, our King, before the ages

wrought salvation

earth,'^ that

midst of the

in the

Jerusalem, which, being in the middle,

has.

is,

in

also called the

is

navel of the earth.^

The Church of

XIV.

Valley of Josaphat,
That sedulous

Mary

St.

which

in

Holy

visitor of the

Arculf, visited the

Church of

Josaphat, which

built in

is

two

Places, the sainted

Mary

St.

in the
her Tomb.

built
is

,8

Valley of

in the

stories, the

lower of these

being a round structure, under a marvellous stone roof,

with an altar
the

is

it

while on the right side of

in its eastern part,

empty stone sepulchre of

Mary,

St.

a time she rested after her burial.*

in

which for

But how or when or

by whom her sacred body was raised from that sepulchre,


or where it awaits the Resurrection, it is said that no
one knows certainly.^ Those who enter this lower round
Church of

St.

Mary

see inserted, on the right of the wall,

that stone above which, on the night

when He was betrayed

men, the Lord prayed in


the field of Gethsemane, on bended knees, before the hour
of His betrayal and in this rock are seen the marks of

by Judas

into the hands of sinful

if

they had been very deeply impressed

the softest wax.

Thus we were informed by our

His two knees, as


in

brother, the sainted Arculf, the visitor of the holy places,

who

with his

own eyes saw what we

upper Church of

shown
'

"*

Mary, which

is

In the

describe.

also round, there are

to be four altars.

Psalm Ixxiv. 12.


Compare Abbot Daniel,

1888, pp. 260


3

St.

pp. 13, 96

Quarterly Statement, October,

ff.

Compare Ant. Mar., p. 14 Abbot Daniel,


and belongs to the saints.'
As Jerome relates,' C, P. 12943.
;

B. adds,

p.

23

Mukaddasi,

'

'

p. 49.

ARCULFS NARRATIVE ABOUT THE


The Tower of Josaphat built

XV.

in

the same

Valley.
In the

same

valley that has been mentioned above, not

from the Church of

far

St.

Mary,

Josaphat, in which his sepulchre

XVI.
Thisi

is

shown the Tower

is

seen.

The Tombs of Simeon and

little

tower

is

of

Joseph.

joined on the right hand by a stone

house, cut out of the rock and separated from the

Mount

of Olivet, within which are shown two sepulchres cut out

One

with iron tools, destitute of ornament.

of these

is

that of Simeon, the just man, who, having embraced the


Infant, the

little

Lord

Temple in both his


The other is that of Joseph,

Jesus, in the

hands, prophesied about Him.

the spouse of St. Mary, and the upbringer of the Lord Jesus.

the Rock of the Mount of


Olivet, across the Valley of Josaphat, in
WHICH ARE Four Tables and two Weixs.^

XVII.

The Cave

in

Mount

In the side of the

from the Church of

St.

of Olivet

is

a cave, not far

Mary, placed on the higher ground

across the Valley of Josaphat, having in

it]

two'very deep

wells, one of which descends to a great depth under the

mountain,^ while the other


its

immense cavity

is

being, as

course, descending into the

always closed.
1

in

little

is

pavement of the

cave,

said, directed in a straight

depth

same cave

these two wells are

are four stone tables, of

XV. and reads, Thence, not far from the Church of St.
which her sepulchre is seen, in that same Valley of Josaphat,
tower of stone, which is joined on its right side [?], cut out

C. omits

Mary,
is

In the

in the

'

of the jock,' etc.


^

'

The cave

of the two wells,' E.,

13048.

G.J other MSS. read, is extended to a great distance at a profound depth.' C. has this reading, but adds, 'under the mountain.'
3

'

HOLY

PLACES,

WKITTEN BY ADAMNAN.

19

which the one nearest the entrance of the cave on the


inside is that of our Lord Jesus Christ, His seat beyond
doubt adjoining His

little

table

He was

here

in

the habit

sometimes of

sitting at meat with His twelve Apostles,


same time sat at the other tables in the same
place.
The closed mouth of the well, referred to above as
being in the pavement of the cave, is shown to belong
especially to the tables of the Apostles.
The little doorway of this cave is closed by a wooden gate, as the sainted

who

at the

Arculf,

who

so often visited that cave of the Lord, relates.

The Gate of David and the Place where

XVni.

Judas Iscarioth hanged himself by a Rope.

The Gate

David adjoins a slight


Those going out of the

of

on the west.

Mount Sion next

ing the Gate and

rising of

Mount Sion

city through

it,

leav-

come

their left hand,

to

a stone bridge,i directed for some distance in a straight line


across the valley to the south, raised on arches,^ close to the

middle of which, on the west

side, is

the spot where Judas

by despair, hanged himself by a rope.^


shown here to this day a fig-tree of large
from the top of which, as is said, Judas hung in a

of Iscarioth, driven

There
size,

still

is

halter, as Juvencus,* a versifying presbyter, has


'

'

From

Fountain

'

fig-tree top

in

sung

he snatched a shapeless death.'

some MSS.

through this gate that one leaves Jerusalem for the


city of Samuel, which is called Ramalha, and for Cesarea of Palestine,
2

C. adds,

'

It is

as well as for Gaza.'


'

Compare Bord.

must be
"

in

W4dy

Pil., p. 24,

Ant., Mar., p. 15.

The

spot alluded to

Rababeh.

C. Vettius Aquilinus Juvencus, a Spaniard by birth, the author of

a Historica Evangelica,

upon the Gospels,'


Christian Biog., vol.

'

the
iii.,

an hexameter

'

first

poem on our

Christian epic'

pp. 598

Lord's

life,

based

(See Smith's Diet, of

f-)

ARCULF'S NARRATIVE ABOUT THE

20

XIX. The Form of the Great Basilica built on


Mount Sion, and the Situation of t-hat
Mountain.
Mention was made of Mount Sion a little above, and
here a short and succinct notice must be inserted of a
great Basilica constructed there, a drawing of which is
given here

'SiJbe,cf
Tlu,Jj<!rd/s Sofper

Column,

te

Sere the, Holy


SpaiJb ieaeenXidb
orv(he.JpostUs

luDthi-apan

wTdckSbephav
wcbsstaneA

wTvuh

Ove,IiCrBj vfaus ootuwL'

HertiS^lfixTy

di^

It
PLAN OF THE BASILICA ON MOUNT SION, SHOWING THE SITES ON
THE SUMMIT OF THE MOUNTAIN.

shown the rock upon which Stephen, being


Beyond the great
stoned without the city, fell asleep.
church described above, which embraces within its walls
such holy places, there stands another memorable rock, on

Here

is

the west side of that on which, as

This Apostolical Church, as

is

is

said,

Stephen was stoned.^

said above,

stone on a level surface in the higher ground of


^

L.J- other

C.

MSS.

read, 'the

was

built of

Mount

Sion.^

Lord was scourged.'

reads for XIX., 'After this the sainted Arculf writes of that

place where the Lord supped with His disciples, and where the Holy
Spirit descended upon the Apostles on the holy day of Pentecost,
where he says that a great church has been constructed on the top of
Mount Sion, which is called the Apostles' Church. There is seen there
the column where the Lord was scourged, and there is also shown
there the rock on which St. Stephen was stoned
to the west there is
another church, where the Lord was tried in the Pretorium of Pilate.
Now we shall speak of the Mount of Olivet,' chap. 22. As to the traditions connected with the scenes of St. Stephen's martyrdom, burial,
etc., see Abbot Daniel, Appendix I., pp. 83-90.
As to the Church,
see Mii, pp. 36, 37.
;

HOLY PLA CES, WRITTEN BY ADA MNA N.


The Little Field called

XX.

in

Hebrew Akel-

DEMAC.
This small

field,i

Mount

quarter of

which

Sion,

is

situated towards the southern

was often

visited

has a stone boundary-wail, and in

it

by our Arculf it
number
;

a considerable

of pilgrims^ are very carefully interred, while others are


left

unburied very carelessly, merely covered with rags or

skins,

and

so,

lying on the ground, putrefy.

XXI. The Rough and Rocky Ground that extends


FAR and wide, from JERUSALEM TO THE CiTY OF
Samuel, and to Cesarea of Palestine towards
THE West.

From ^lia northwards to the City of Samuel, which is


Armathem/ the ground is rocky and rough, in which,

called

however, there are intervening spaces, thorny valleys also


lying up to the Tanitic region.

country

Another description of

seen from the above-named ^lia and

is

westwards extending to Cesarea of Palestine


there

maybe

yet for

by

Mount Sion
though

for

some narrow, small, rough places,


the most part wider downs are met with, enlivened
at intervals

olive groves scattered over them.

The Mount of

Olivet, its Height,


Character of its Soil.

XXII.

and the

Other kinds of trees than the vine and the olive can, as
Arculf

relates,

while very
'

Mar.,

p.

22

Abbot Daniel,

p.

38

it.

City of

p. 20.

'Peregrinus' in

Todd's

on the Mount of Olivet,

crops of corn and barley are raised on

Compare, Ant.

Jerusalem,

Cf.

rarely be found

fine

'

Adamnan

signifies

'

pilgrim' (Reeves, Glossary).

St. Patrick,' p. 261.

''Armachim,' 'Ramathas,' in some MSS. The present Nebi


Samwil, on the right of the old northerly road from Jaffa to Jerusalem

ARCULF'S NARRATIVE ABOUT THE

22

For the character of that soil is shown not to be adapted


Its height, moreover,
for trees, but for gt-ass and flowers.
seems to be equal to that of Mount Sion,i although Mount
Sion seems'small and narrow when compared to the Mount
its geometrical dimensions-^namely,

of Olivet as regards

breadth and length.


mountains,

In the middle, between these two

the Valley

lies

of

Josaphat,

we

of which

spoke above, stretching from north to south.

XXIIL The

Place of the Ascension of the Lord


AND the Church built on it.

On

the whole

Mount

of Olivet there seems to be no spot

higher than that from which the Lord

is

said

to have

ascended into the heavens, where there stands a great

round church, having


covered over above.
roof or vault,

having

lies

in its circuit three vaulted porticoes

The

in its eastern side

covering.

So

interior of the church, without

open to heaven under the open

that in this

air,

an altar protected under a narrow

way

the interior has no vault,^ in

order that from the place where the Divine footprints are

when the Lord was carried up into heaven in a


cloud, the way may be always open and free to the eyes of
those who pray towards heaven.*
For when this basilica, of which I have now made
last seen,^

was building, that place of the footprints

slight mention,

of the Lord, as

we

find

written elsewhere, could not be

The summit of Mount Olivet is 2,693 feet above the sea-level that
Mount Sion 2,550 feet.
^ C, other MSS. read, 'placed over it.'
Compare Abbot Daniel, p. 25.
1

of

' Z,.,

other

MSS.

read, 'last stood.'

C, having given this paragraph in an abbreviated form, adds only,


'In the pavement whence He ascended, His sacred footprints are
seen to have been impressed.' The footprint of Christ is still shown
*

on Mount Olivet,

'

City of Jerusalem,'

p. 40.

HOL Y PLA CES, WRITTEN B Y A DAMNA N.

23

enclosed under the covering^ with the rest of the buildings.

Whatever was

applied, the unaccustomed earth, refusing to

human,

receive anything

cast

back into the face of those

who brought

it.
And, moreover, the mark of the dust that
was trodden by the Lord is so lasting that the impression

of the footsteps

may

be perceived

and although the

faith

of such as gather daily at the spot snatches

away some of
what was trodden by the Lord, yet the area perceives no
loss, and the ground still retains that same appearance of
being marked by the impress of footsteps.

who

Further, as the sainted Arculf,


spot, relates, a brass

on the

flattened

carefully visited this

hollow cylinder of large circumference,

top, has

been placed here,

its

height

being shown by measurement to rdach one's neck. 2


centre of

it

is

an opening of some

uncovered marks of the

feet of the

Lord are plainly and

clearly seen from above, impressed in the dust.

cylinder there
that

is,

in the

any entering by

western side, as

it

In the

through which the

size,

it

In that

were, a door

so

can easily approach the place of

the sacred dust, and through the open hole in the wheel

may

take up in their, outstretched hands some particles of

the sacred dust.

Thus the

narrative of our Arculf as to the footprints of

the Lord quite accords with the writings of others


effect that

by the roof of the house


covering

to

the

they could not be covered in any way, whether


or

by any

special lower

so that they can always be seen

and the marks of the

feet of the

by

all

Lord can be

and closer
that enter,

clearly seen

For these footprints of

depicted in the dust of that place.

the Lord are lighted by the brightness of an

hanging on pulleys above that cylinder

in

immense lamp

the church, and

burning day and night.


Further
'

'

in the

Pavement'

western side of the round church we have


in

MSS.

'

Head'

in

some MSS.

ARCULF'S NARRATIVE ABOUT THE

24

mentioned above, twice four windows have been formed


high up with glazed shutters, and

many lamps

burn as

in

these

windows there

placed opposite them, within and close

to them.

These lamps hang

that each

lamp may hang neither higher nor

may be

seen, as

and close

which

to

these lamps

it

is

in chains,

were, fixed to
specially

it is

and are so placed


lower, but

own window, opposite


seen.
The brightness of

its

so great^ that, as their light

is

copiously poured

through the glass from the summit of the Mountain of


Olivet, not only

the part of the mountain nearest the

is

round^ basilica to the west illuminated, but also the lofty

path which

rises

by steps up

the Valley of Josaphat,

is

to the city of Jerusalem

from

clearly illuminated in a wonderful

manner, even on dark nights

while the greater part of the

hand on the opposite side is similarly illuminated by the same brightness.


The effect of
this brilliant and admirable coruscation of the eight great
city that lies nearest at

lamps shining by night from the holy mountain and from


the site of the Lord's ascension, as Arculf related,

is

to

pour into the hearts of the believing onlookers a greater


eagerness^ of the Divine love, and to strike the

mind with

a certain fear along with vast inward compunction.

me about the same round


That on the anniversary of the Lord's Ascension,

This also Arculf related to


church

at mid-day, after the solemnities of the

Mass have been

celebrated in that basilica, a most violent tempest of wind

comes on regularly every year, so that no one can stand or


sit in

that church or in the neighbouring places, but

prostrate in prayer with their faces in the


terrible

The

until that

tempest has passed.

result of this terrific blast

cannot be vaulted over


1

ground

all lie

Compare

St.

Paula, p.
'

that that part of the house

so that above the spot where the

lo.

v., R.,

is

add,

2
'

<

stone' in some

or clearness.'

MSS.

HOLY

PLACES, WRITTEN

footsteps of the

within

Lord are impressed and are

the opening in

cyHnder, the
blast of the

BY ADAMNAN.

the centre of

way always appears open

clearly shown,

the above-named

to heaven.

above-mentioned wind destroyed,

with the Divine

25

in

For the

accordance

whatever materials had been gathered

will,

above

for preparing a vault

it,

if

any human

art

made

the

attempt.

This account of
the sainted Arculf,
of

Mount

this dreadful

who was

Olivet at the very hour of the day of the Lord's

Ascension when that

storm was given to us by

himself present in that Church

drawing of

this

fierce

storm arose;

round church

shown below, however

is

while the form of the


unworthily it may have been drawn
brass cylinder is also shown placed in the middle of the
;

church.

PLAN OF THE CHURCH OF THE ASCENSION.

This also we learned from the narrative of the sainted


Arculf: That in that round church, besides the usual light
of the eight lamps mentioned above as shining within the

church by night, there are usually added on the night of


the Lord's Ascension almost innumerable other lamps^
which by their terrible and admirable brightness, poured

ARCULF'S NARRATIVE ABOUT THE

26

abundantly through the glass of the windows, not only

Mount

illuminate the

wholly on

fire

of Olivet, but

make

it

seem to be

while the whole city and the places in the

neighbourhood are also

lit

up.

The Sepulchre of Lazarus and the Church

XXIV.

BUILT above

AND THE ADJOINING MONASTERY.

it,

Arculf, the visitor of the above-mentioned holy places,


visited a little plain

surrounded by a great

Bethany,

at,

wood

of olives, where there are a great monastery and a

great

basilica built over

Lazarus to

recalled

life

the cave from which the


after

he had

Lord

been dead four

days.

XXV.

Another Church built to the Right of


Bethany.

As

to another

more celebrated church

built

towards the

southern side of Bethany, on that spot of the


Olivet where the Lord

think that

ciples, I

Hence we must

Mount

of

said to have addressed the dis-

we must

write briefly.

carefully inquire

what time or to what


the Lord spoke.^

is

what address and

special individuals of

These three questions,

if

at

His disciples

we

will

open

the writings of the three Evangelists, Matthew, Mark, and

Luke,

will

be clearly answered, for the Evangelists speak of

the character of the address in complete

As

another.

any doubt, or as
read

to the address

Olivet, the disciples

vately, saying. Tell us,


C. reads,

which

and the

Matthew speaking about the Lord

upon the Mount of

He

specially

harmony with one

to the place of that meeting,

when

'And although

no one can have


place,

who

'And as He sat
came to Him pri:

shall these things.be?

and what

three Evangelists describe His address,

then gave to the disciples, yet Matthew writes about


"

And

as

He

will

sat," etc'

it

more

HOLY PLACES, WRITTEN BY ADAMNAN.


shall

be the sign of Thy coming and of the consummation of

the age

?'

(St.

Matt. xxiv.

Him, Matthew has kept


tells

27

us

'

As

3).

silence

to the persons

but

who asked

Mark has not, and he


Andrew asked

Peter and James and John and

Him privately' (St. Mark xiii. 3) in reply to whose question


He delivered the address referred to by the three Evangelists

we have mentioned above, of which

shown

in

His words

For many

Mark

come

shall

xiii. 5,

6)

'Take heed
in

and the

lest

the character

is

any man deceive you.

My name, saying, I am

Christ

'

(St.

rest that follows as to the last times

and the consummation of the age, which Matthew records at


great length, down to the place where the same Evangelist
clearly

shows the time of

this

mentions the words of the

lengthened address, as he

Lord

And

it

came

to pass,

finished all these sayings, He said to His


Ye know that after two days is the Passover, and
Son of Man shall be betrayed to be crucified,' etc.

when Jesus had


disciples,

the

Matt. xxvi. I, 2).


It is thus shown distinctly that
was on the fourth day of the week, when two days
remained to the first day of the Unleavened Bread, which
is called the Passover, that the Lord delivered the length(St.
it

ened address mentioned above,

in

the four above-named disciples.

answer to the question of

On

the place where the

address was given a church was founded in

which

is

held in great honour.

Let

it

suffice to

have thus

of the city of Jerusalem, and

its

far described the

Mount

memory,

holy places

Sion, and the

of Olivet, and the Valley of Josaphat, which

lies

Mount

between

these mountains, in accordance with the accurate narrative

of the sainted Arculf, the visitor of those places.

ARCULF'S NARRATIVE ABOUT THE

BOOK
The Situation

I.

II.

Bethlehem.

ofi

Book we

In the beginning of this Second

shall briefly

write a few notes about the situation of the city of Bethlehem,''^

where

which our Saviour thought worthy to be the place

He

should be born of the Holy Virgin.

who

according to the narrative of Arculf

remarkable

visited

is

situated on the narrow ridge of a

rounded

it, is

for situation as for its glorious fame,

been published throughout the churches


it

This

on

all

by

sides

valleys,

-of

on the top of

built right

round the brow of that

overhangs the

nations

the ridge of ground

little

valleys lying around

little

all

round the

a low wall without towers,'

level plain

is

not so

which has

mountain, sur-

stretching from east to west for about a mile


it

city,

mountain, which

on both

sides,

while the. dwellings of the citizens are scattered over the


intervening ground within the wall, along the longer diameter.

n. The Place of the Nativity of the Lord, the


Church of St. Mary.
In the extreme eastern angle of this city

is

a sort of

natural half cave,* the extremity of the interior of w.hich

Manger

the

born babe

while another, contiguous to the

have just mentioned,^


Of

is

of the Lord, in which His mother laid the new-

is

shown

the district of Jerusalem

'

C. reads,

Compare Abbot Daniel,

C. inserts,

that

'about Bethlehem, which

'

where a

little

manger we

to such as enter, as being the


is,

is

Bethlehem,'

K.,

R.

the district of Jerusalem.'

C. omits 'half.'
house has been constructed of stone.'

p. 40.

HOL Y FLA CES, WRITTEN B Y A DAMNAN.


traditional site of

His

real

29

The whole

nativity.

of this

cave of the Manger of the Lord at Bethlehem has been


adorned on the inside with precious marble> in honour of
Saviour,

the

while

the

in

half

above the stone

cave,

chamber, there has been built the Church of

St.

Mary,

above the place where the Lord is said to have been


actually born, which is a grand structure.

III.

The Rock situated beyond the Wall, upon


WHICH THE Water, in which He was first
WASHED AFTER HiS BiRTH, WAS POURED.

Here I think I must briefly mention the rock lying


beyond the wall, upon which the water of the first bathing
of the Lord's body after His birth, was poured from the
top of the wall out of the vessel into which it had been
put.

This water of the sacred bath, poured from the wall,

found a receptacle

rock lying below, which had been

in a

hollowed out by nature like a trench

and

water has

this

own time

been constantly replenished from that day to our


during the course of
full

many

ages, so that the cavity

Saviour miraculously bringing

His

is

shown

of the purest water without any loss or diminution, our

nativity,

about from the day of

of which the prophet sings

water out of the rock

Rock was

this

Christ,'^

;'i

'
:

Who brought
Now that

and the Apostle Paul,

'

^ho, contrary to nature, brought water

or a stream out of the hardest rock in the desert to console

His thirsting people.

Such

is

the power of

wisdom of God, who brought out water


of

Bethlehem and keeps

this

its

own

eyes,

full

of water

xlviii. 21.

and he washed

it.

Isaiah

the

also from that rock

cavity always

our Arculf inspected with his

his face in

God and

Cor. x.

4.

ARCULF'S NARRATIVE ABOUT THE

30

Another Church

IV.

David
Arculf,

when

which the Tomb of

in

seen.

is

asked him about the Sepulchre of King

David,! gave us this answer

myself inquired very care-

about the Sepulchre of King David,

fully

buried in the earth, and visited

It lies in

it.

which he was

in

the middle^ of

the pavement of the church, without any overlying orna-

ment, surrounded only by a low fence' of stone, and having


a lamp shining brightly placed over

This church

it.

built outside the wall of the

is

city in

an

adjoining valley, which joins the Hill of Bethlehem on the


north.

The Church within which

V.

is

the Sepulchre

of St. Hieronymus [Jerome].

As we

inquired with like solicitude as to the Sepulchre

of St. Hieronymus,* Arculf told us

Hieronymus,
built in

a valley

saw the Sepulchre

which you inquire, which

as to

beyond that

city ,5

little

is in

of

a church

which

is

con-

terminous with the ridge of the Hill of Bethlehem, mentioned above, and

of St. Hieronymus
of David, and

is

lies
is

to the south of

of similar

it.

This Sepulchre

workmanship

to the

Tomb

unornamented.

The Tombs of the Three Shepherds, around


WHOM, when the Lord was born, the Heavenly
Brightness shone; and their Church.

VI.

Arculf gave us a short account of the tombs of those


shepherds, around
^

Compare Ant. Mar.,

C. reads,

'

'

whom, on
p.

23

Bord.

the

night of

the

south.'

Pyramis here, and p. 3 1, has apparently the meaning of a


See Reeves, p. 452.
'

fence.'
*

Compare

Lord's

Pil., p. 27.

Ant. Mar.,

p. 23.

C.

omits

'little.'

'

square

HOLY PLACES, WRITTEN BY ADAMNAN.


Nativity, the heavenly brightness shone

the three

I visited,

31

he

said,

tombs of those three shepherds who are buried

church near the Tower of Gader,^ which


the east of Bethlehem,

whom, when

is

in a

about a mile to

the Lord was born,

the brightness of the angelic light^ surrounded at that place,


that

near the

is

been

built,

Tower of the Flock where

The Sepulchre

VII.

The Book

is,

Book of Places

'

the district of Bethlehem, and the

in

relates that

Rachel was buried

about this road, Arculf said

There

leads from .^lia southwards to


six^ miles

from Jerusalem,

the Sepulchre of Rachel


west, that

is,

is

is

Hebron, close to which,


end of

this

common workmanship and

VIII.

Hebron, which
of the Philistines

is

not

houses,
1

is

shown

also

walls.

Some
in

has some poorly built villages,

some lying
'Aden'

'Voice,' B., C.

monument

Arculf

C. reads,

'

8.

five.'

at this spot is constantly

It

is

relates,

traces of the

it

city,

remnants of ruins
fields,

within, others without,

So St. Paula, p.
Compare Abbot Daniel, p. 42.

C. reads,

Sahur.

without orna-

Mambre, was once the metropolis


and inhabited by giants David reigned

is

now surrounded by

it

it

Hebron.

which was long ago destroyed, appear


but

it.^

for seven years, and, as the sainted

it

while

the present day the inscription with her name,

which Jacob, her husband, erected above

in

east,

road on the

There

mentation, surrounded by a stone fence.*

even at

questions

a royal road which

Bethlehem on the

at the

that

in

on one's right hand as one goes to Hebron

a building of

is

is

my

In answer to

close to the road.

district

of Rachel.

of Genesis relates that Rachel was buried in

Ephrata, that
'

that church has

containing the sepulchres of those shepherds.

and farm-

those remains

now known

as Beit

< See p. 30, note 3.


spoken of from a.d. 333.

ARCULF'S NARRATIVE ABOUT THE

32

of the destroyed walls, scattered over the surface of the


plain, while a

multitude of people

live in

those villages and

farms.

The Valley of Mambre, and the Sepulchre

IX.

OF THE Four Patriarchs.

To

the east of

looking towards

Ephron the

Hebron is a field with a double cave,


Mambre, which Abraham bought from

Hittite, for a possession of a

In the valley of this

field

Sepulchre of Arba, that

site of the

Abraham, and
whose feet are

double sepulchre.^

the sainted Arculf visited the


is,

of the four patriarchs,

and Jacob, and Adam, the

Isaac,
not, as

is

customary

man,

first

in other parts

of the

world, turned towards the east in burial, but are turned to

The

site

of these

surrounded by a low rectangular^

wall.

Adam,

the south, and their heads to the north.

sepulchres

the

first

is

created, to

whom, when he sinned, immediately after


God the Creator said Dust thou art,

the sin was committed,

and

'

to the dust thou shalt return,'^

from the other

three,

is

separated somewhat

next the northern side of the rectan-

gular stone rampart, buried not in a stone sepulchre cut out

the rock above ground, as other honoured

in

seed

lie,

but buried

in

men

of his

the ground, covered with earth, and

himself, dust, turned into dust, rests waiting the resurrection with all
filled
1

his seed.

And

thus in that sepulchre

the divine sentence uttered to

B., v., R., add,

'

him

which are not seen above the ground, but there

are thought to be twin sepulchres under the ground.'

Haram

the

is ful-

as to himself.*

enclosure at

Hebron

is

A description

of

given by Capt, Conder in P. F. M.,

III., pp. 333-346, and by the late Dean Stanley, 'Jewish Church,' Vol. I.,
Appendix II., pp. 416-437 (London, 1877). Compare Ant. Mar., p. 24
Abbot Daniel, p. 45 'Journey through .Syria and Palestine,' pp. 53 ff.
2
Quadrato appears here to be used for quadrangulo,' the real
;

'

'

'

shape of the enclosure not being square.


*
Because he was buried in the earth,' B., K, R.
'

Gen.

iii.

19.

HOL Y PLACES, WRITTEN B Y ADAMNAN.


And

33

the example of the Sepulchre of the

after

first

parent, the other three Patriarchs also rest in sleep covered

with

common dust, their four

Sepulchres having placed above

them small monuments, cut out and hewn from


stones, in the

form of a

single

and formed according to


the measure of the length and the breadth of each

The

Sepulchre.

basilica,

three adjoining Sepulchres of

Abraham

and Isaac and Jacob are protected by three hard white


stones, placed over them, formed according to the shape of
which we have now written, as has been said above
while

Adam's Sepulchre

over

it,

by a stone placed
but of darker colour and poorer workmanship.
Arculf saw also the poorer and smaller monuments of the
is

also protected

women, namely Sara, and Rebecca, and Lia, buried


the earth.
The sepulchral field of those patriarchs is

three
in

found to be one furlong from the wall of that most ancient

Hebron, towards the

east.

founded before

all

cities,

preceded

foundation

has

it

in its

now been

Thus

far

the

all

This Hebron,

it

is

said,

was

not only of Palestine, but also


the cities of Egypt, although

so miserably destroyed.

let

it

suffice

to

have written

as

the

to

Sepulchres of the Patriarchs.

X.

The Hill and the Oak of Mambre.

mile to the north of

described above,

is

the

Tombs

that have

the very grassy and iiowery

Mambre, looking towards Hebron, which


of

it.

This

little

mountain, which

is

lies

been

hill

of

to the south

Mambre, has

called

a level summit, at the north side of which a great stone

church has been

built, in the right side

the two walls of this great Basilica, the


^

The Oak or Terebinth


Arculf and many

sites.

of

of which between

Oak

Abraham has been shown

others (Jerome,

Itin.

of Mambre,^
in

two different
Sozomen,

Hierosol.,

Eucherius, Benjamin of Tudela, the Abbot Daniel,

p. 43, etc.)

seem

AKCULF'S NARRATIVE ABOUT THE

34

wonderful to

relate,

stands rooted in the earth

oak of Abraham, because under

called the

hospitably received the Angels.


relates, that this

also

is

he once

it

Hieronymus elsewhere

had existed from the beginning of

tree

the world to the reign of the

Emperor Constantine

but

had utterly perished, perhaps because


that time, although the whole of that vast tree was not

he did not say that


at

St.

it

to be seen as
still

it

it

had been formerly, yet a spurious trunk

remained rooted

in the

ground, protected under the

men

roof of the church, of the height of two

from

wasted spurious trunk, which has been cut on

all

this

sides

by

axes, small chips are carried to the different provinces of the

memory

world, on account of the veneration and

of that

oak, under which, as has been mentioned above, that famous

and notable

visit

Around

Abraham.

honour of that

But as to

of the Angels was granted to the patriarch

the church, which

place, a few dwellings, of

these, let

it

suffice to

have said

there in

built

is

monks
this

are shown.

let us

go on

to other points.

XI.

The Pine-forest from which Firewood

is

BROUGHT TO JERUSALEM ON CAMELS.


As we

leave Hebronj

we come,

miles, to the north of the city,

and

from the side of the road on the


great size covered with pines.
is

at a distance of three

a wide plain not far

in

hand, to a

left

From

hill

pine forest,

this

of no

wood

carried to Jerusalem on camels for burning in fires

camels,

say, for, as Arculf relates, carts or

on

waggons can

rarely be found throughout all Judaea.


to point to the ruin of er

Rameh, near which

Abraham's House, with a fine


Jews to be the Oak of Mamre.
Balliltet Sebta,

coccifera).

where

is

spring-well.

The

is

This

Beit el Khulil, or
is

still

held by the

Christians point to another

site,

a fine specimen of Sindian (Quercus Pseudo-

HOL Y PLACES, WRITTEN BY ADAMNAN.


XII.

Our

35

JERTCHO.

sainted Arculf saw the site of the city of Jericho,

which Joshua destroyed,

after crossing the Jordan, slaying

king, in the place of which Hieli of Bethel, of the tribe of

its

Ephraim,

built another city,

which our Saviour thought

At

honour with His presence.

to

the time

when

attacked and besieged Jerusalem, this city was

Romans

taken and destroyed on account of the perfidy of


In

habitants.

its

relates,

some

itself

the harlot,2

site,

who

there

still

of

its

ruins, as

have been destroyed

them

whom

in flax

Joshua Ben-Nun

straw

in

the garret.

walls of her house remain, but without a roof

of the city

site

is left

not even having a house of


vines.'

cities

Marvellous to say,

remains only the house of Raab

hid the two spies,

sent across, concealing

The stone
The whole

destroyed

traces are shown.

even after these three successive

on the same

its in-

place a third was built, which also after a

long interval of time was

Arculf

fit

the

Between the

site

without

rest,

human

habitation,

and produces corn and

of this destroyed city and the

Jordan are great palm groves, throughout which are


scattered spots where there are nearly countless houses
river

inhabited by sorry fellows of the race of Channan.*

XIII. Galgal, and the Twelve Stones which the


Children of Israel, after crossing the River
Jordan, took from its Dried Channel.
Arculf, of

whom

Galgal, built on

thfe

crossing the Jordan,


1

MSS.

'

have spoken, saw a large Church

encamped

for the first

time in the land

Oza.'

Compare Bord. Pil., p. 25 Ant. Mar., p.


' Compare Abbot Daniel, p. 31.
Compare Mukad., p. 56, 'The people
=

in

spot where the children of Israel, after

12.

are brown-skinned

swarthy.'

3-2

and

ARCULF'S NARRATIVE ABOUT THE

36

In this church too the sainted Arculf noted

of Chanaan.

the twelve stones as to which, after the crossing of the

Jordan, the Lord spoke to Josue

each

for

tribe,

command them

and

Choose twelve men, one


to take from the middle

of the channel of. the Jordan, where the feet of the priests

have stood, twelve very hard stones, which ye shall place


on the site of your camp, where ye shall pitch your tents
These,

this night.

say, Arculf saw, six of

them lying on

the pavement on the right side of the church, and an equal

number on the north side^ all of them unpolished and


common each of them is so large that, as Arculf himself
relates, two strong young men of this time can scarcely
raise it from the earth
while one had by some unknown accident been broken in two parts, and has been
;

artificially

joined again by an iron clamp.

the above-mentioned church

most ancient Jericho on

is built, lies

this side of the

the tribe of Juda, at the

fifth

Galgal,^ where,

to the east of the

Jordan, in the

Tabernacle was fixed here for a longtime; and


as

is

said, the

lot of

milestone from Jericho; the

above-named church was

the above-mentioned twelve stones;

it is

in this place,

built, in

which are

held in marvellous

reverence and honour by the people of that district.

XIV.

The Place where our Lord was baptized


BY JOHN.^

That sacred and honoured place, where the Lord was


baptized by John, is always covered by the waters of the
^

Joshua

'"

C. reads,

iv.
'

1-3.

He saw

of the ancient Jericho,


the Tabernacle
still

was

found in Birket

also in Galgal another church on the east side

and

fixed

at the fifth milestone


for a long time.'

Jilujlieh.

The

variously stated by different pilgrims

'not

far,'

from Jericho, where

The name

of Galgal

distance from Jericho

'one

mile,'

Theodorus,

is

is

most

ch. xvi.

Ant. Mar., p. 12; 'a verst' (two-thirds English mile) 'to-

wards the summer sun-rising,' i.e., N.E., Abbot Daniel, p. 32.


^ As to the Holy Places on and near
the Jordan, see Ant. Mar.,
Appendix I., pp. 38-41.

HOLY PLACES, WRITTEN BY ADAMNAN.

3;

river Jordan, and as Arculf, who went to the place, relates,


he passed backwards and forwards to it' through the river

in that sacred place a

close to

man,

wooden

diminished, up to his breast


the whole of

additional

tallest

when the waters are


but when the river is in
is covered over by the

The

waters.

the cross
site

of that

marking the place where, as has been

was baptized,

man

strong

iixed,

is

a time of great drought,

or, at

flood,

cross of great size

which the water comes up to the neck of the

is

on

this side^ of the

cross,

accordingly,

said above, the

bed of the

can with a sling throw a stone from

From

the other bank on the Arabian side.

above-mentioned

cross,

stone

arches to the bank, across which

Lord
and a

as far as

it

the site of the


carried

on

to the cross

and

bridge

men go

river,

is

descend by a slope to the bank, ascending as they return.^

At the edge
said,

of the river

is

a small square church, built, as

is

on the spot where the garments of the Lord were taken

care of at the time

when He was

baptized.

This

is

raised, so

as to be uninhabitable, on four stone vaults, standing above

the waters which flow below.

Hue

'

'

C. reads,

et illuc
'

per

eundem

on the other

It

is

protected above by

intra vit fluvium.'

side.'

be corrupt. The descent was from the bank


The allusion may,
from the cross to the bank.
however, be to the descent from the upper to the lower bank. Compare
Bede, p. 82. The .translation of C. for the whole passage is 'He told
us also that that sacred, holy, and honourable place, in which the Lord
'

The

text appears to

cross, not

to the

was baptized by John, is always covered by the waters of the river


and in that place a wooden cross has been fixed. The site
of that cross, where the Lord was baptized, is on the other side of the
bed of the river, while at the edge of the river there is a small church,
where, as is said, the garments of the Lord were taken care of This
basilica stands above the waters, so as to be uninhabitable, since the
waters flow under it on both sides, and is supported on four stone
Jordan

vaults and arches.


honour of St. John

On

the higher ground, there

Baptist.'

is

another church in

ARCULF'S NARRATIVE ABOUT THE

38

is

supported by

in the lower

ground of the

slacked lime,i and below, as has been said,

This church

vaults and arches.

is

valley through which the river Jordan flows

higher ground, overhanging

it,

monks

a great monastery of

on the brow of the opposite

built

is

while on the

There

hill.

is

also

enclosed within the same wall as the monastery, a church

honour of

in

St.

John

Baptist, built of squared stones.

XV.

The Colour of the Jordan, and the


Dead Sea.

The

colour of the river Jordan appears from Arculf's

narrative to be white on the surface, like milk, and as

enters the Salt Sea

its

it

colour can easily be distinguished

from that of the Dead Sea

for a long distance

along

its

course.!

In great tempests the

Dead Sea

ground by the dashing of

its

had

its

in

abundance along

casts

up

salt

on the

waves, and this can usually be


circuit,

affording a very large

supply, not only to those in the vicinity but also to fardistant nations
sun.

Salt

is

it is

sufficiently dried

by the heat of the

otherwise obtained in a mountain of Sicily

for the stones of that

earth, prove to be naturally

most

name from

salt to the taste, this

Sea

properly called Earth Salt.

given a different

earth

salt,

salt.

however,

From

believed to have derived His simile

is

the Apostles in the Gospel

As

etc.

we were
1

'

'-

'
:

Ye

is

this the

when He

being

usually

Lord

says to

are the salt of the earth,'

found in the mountain of Sicily,


by the sainted Arculf, who spent some days

to this earth salt

told

Coctili creta.'

elsewhere.'

mountain, when turned out of the

'

do not remember having seen the expression

C. W. W.

Travellers speak of the water of the Jordan where

into the Salt Sea as so turgid that

its

it debouches
stream can be plainly traced for

some distance in the clear blue water of


Land of Israel,' p. 249.

Tristram's

'

the sea,

'Mount

Seir,' p.

163

HOLY
in

PLACES, WRITTEN

BY ADAMNAN.

and who proved by sight and


was really the very saltest of salt.

Sicily,

that

it

XVI.

He

The Dead

taste

39

and touch

?>'E.K-^continued.

informed us also as to the

salt

of the

Dead

Sea,

which he said he had similarly made proof of by the same

named above he visited also


we have mentioned above, the

three senses

that lake

extending to Zoar of Arabia,^


the neighbourhood of

in

is

Sodom

the sea-shore of
length of which,

580 furlongs; the breadth


is

150 furlongs.

XVII. The Fountains of the Jordan.


Our Arculf proceeded

also to that place in the province

of Phenicia, where the Jordan seems to emerge from two


neighbouring fountains at the roots of Lebanon, one of

which

and the other Dan, which, mingling


But it
to the compound name Jordan.^

called Jor

is

together, give rise

to be noted that the source of the Jordan

is

is

not in

Sughar by
Zoar ('Zoari' is the form used here) of Arabia (spelt as
the
Crusaders,
of
the
Segor
the
is
Mukaddasi, also Zughar and Sukar)
A.D.) it was 'for
time
Mukaddasi's
(985
In
Shighur.
esh
Tell
present
it was the
commercial prosperity like a miniature Busrah' (p. 3), and
1

question of the identification of this^ site


discussed by Mr. Guy Le Strange in 'Across
of the Arab geo317-320, from a careful examination

The

capital of the district.

with the Zoar of Lot


the Jordan,' pp.

is

translated

See also a paper by Mons. Clermont Ganneau,


Mukaddasi calls
E. F. Quarterly Statement, January, 1886.
10 Ant. Mar.,
Paula,
St.
p.
See
the Dead Sea 'the Lake of Sughar.'
length of the
The
84.
Mukad.,
62,
pp.
Daniel,
p. 47
pp. 10, 27 Abbot
Dead Sea is 49 miles, the greatest breadth 9^ miles.
Philippi) and
2
sources of the Jordan, at Banias (Ca;;area
graphers.
in the P.

The two
Kidy (Dan).

The idea that these streams were called 'Jor'


name given to the
Dan,' and the derivation from this fact of the
of Josephus at
time
the
from
date
river formed by their united stream,
Abbot Daniel
The
Ernoul,
50.
p.
6
Mar.,
Ant.
p.
Compare
least.
three bowflowmg,
as
strangely represents (p. 60) the two streams
half a
about
after
re-uniting
and
Galilee,
shots apart, from the Sea of

Tell el

and

'

verst (a third of a mile).

ARCULF'S NARRATIVE ABOUT THE

40

Paneum, but
of

the district of Trachonitis, at a distance

in

20 furlongs^ from

in Trachonitis.^

is

Csesarea

name taken from

Paneas, a

Phiala,

which

Philippi,

is

now

the mountain Paneum, which

which

always

is

full

of water,

whence the Jordan flows through underground channels,


bubbles up also in Paneum, in two divisions, which, as has
been said above, are usually called Jor and Dan.
leaving

some

this, after

form one

interval,

which thence directs

river,

longs, without receiving

Afterwards

Julias.*

any

siderable desert tract,


is

two

lakes, its

lost in

course for 120 fur-

addition,^ as far as the city of

it

is

wandering through a con-

received in the Asphaltic Lake,

Thus having passed victoriously through


course is stayed by a third.
it.

XVI 1 1. The Sea of


The

its

flows through the middle of the lake,

it

called Genezar, whence, after

and

sainted Arculf,

Galilee.

who has been

so often mentioned,

went round the greater part of the Sea of


1

'

199,'

The

Galilee,

Lake of Cinnereth and the Sea of

also called the

On

they flow together so as to

which

is

Tiberias,

L.

belief that the real source of the Jordan

on the road

to Trachonitis, 120 stadia

from

was

a Lake Phiala,
from which the

in

BiniS.s,

water flowed underground to the Cave of Pan in the latter place, is as


old as the time of Josephus, and has been completely given up only in
recent years.

Phiala

is

identified with

the Birket er

Ram,

S.E. of

Binifts.
^

The Jordan

is

joined by the

Nahr Hasbiny,

half a mile below the

and Tell el Kady. The length of


the Lake of Galilee is rather more than

junction of the streams from Baniis


the river from that point to

20 miles.
^ C. reads, 'Tiberias,' and continues, 'Thence it flows to the place
which is called Genezar. The Lake of Galilee is formed from the
Jordan it is called at one time the Sea of Cenereth, at another the
Sea of Tiberias great woods adjoin it.' The identification of (Beth;

little more than a mile north of


the point of the debouchure of the Jordan into the lake, cannot be

saida-) Julias with the ruin et Tell, a

discussed here.

Cf.

'

The

Jaul^n,' p. 246.

HOLY PLACES, WRITTEN BY ADAMNAN.


and which
itself,

is

by great woods.

closely surrounded

the size of which almost entitles

The lake
name of

to the

it

41

a sea, extends in length to 140 furlongs, and in breadth


stretches

over 40

;i

waters

its

drinking, since they receive

marsh mud or
sides

by a sandy

is

it

in

any other

lake.^

and the Lake of Cinnereth partly from the

book of the Jewish

He

rience of Arculf.

went

all

purer and

is

taken these short particulars as to the source

of the Jordan
third

with

moreover, no finer kinds, either in

fish,

taste or in appearance, can be found in

We have

thick

is

for

surrounded on

shore, wherefore its water

Of

better^ for use.

nothing that

because

turbid,

and good

sweet

are

Captivity, partly from the expe-

relates with perfect certainty that

he

eight* days from that place where the Jordan

emerges from the gorge of the Sea of Galilee to that where


enters the

it

Dead

This most

Sea.

salt sea

the sainted

Arculf very often gazed at from the summit of the Mount


of Olivet, as he himself narrates.

XIX.

SiCHEM

AND THE WELL OF SaMARIA.

Arculf, the sainted priest, passed through the district of

Samaria, and came to the city of that province which


called, in

Hebrew, Sichem, but

is

and Latin custom it is also often


Near that city he saw
improperly.

called Sichar,

however

a church built

beyond

the wall, which

is

four-armed, stretching towards the four

cardinal points, like a cross, a plan of which

In the middle of

is

named Sicima by Greek

is

it

is

drawn below.^

the Fountain of Jacob, which

is

also

' The extreme length of the lake is


12^ miles, its' greatest width
The water of the lake is clear,
(from Mejdel to Khersa) 6f miles.
bright, and sweet to the taste, except in the neighbourhood of the
'

salt-springs,

and where
L.

''

'

"

See Ant. Mar.,

Softer,'

'

p. 6,

St.

Tiberias.'

f.

MSS. read

note

by the drainage of

defiled

is

it

'Recovery of Jerusalem,' pp. 339

'

place.'

Paula,

p.

Bord.

'

Seven,' L.

Pil., p.

8,

note

7.

ARCULF'S NARRATIVE ABOUT THE


often called a well, looking towards

its

four divisions,
toil of

His journey,

one day at the sixth hour, when the

woman

of Samaria^

draw

water.

which the Saviour, wearied out with the


sat

upon

came

to that well at

to

As

to this

woman, among other things, said in answer to the


Thou anything to draw with, and

well, the

Lord

mid-day

Lord, neither hast

'
:

JanVa

a
wai

CH

PLAN OF THE CHURCH BUILT ABOVE JACOB

the well

is

deep.'^

relates as to

its

depth

cubit,

is

WELL.

who drank water from

Arculf,

The

twice twenty orgyiae, that

well that I
is,

the well,

saw has a depth of

forty cubits.

An

orgyia, or

the length from extremity to extremity of the

outstretched arms.^

Sichem, or Sichema, was once a priestly city and a city


1

C. reads,

St.

Orgyia

human

John

'

thirsting for the faith of the

iv.

woman

of Samaria.'

II.

(ipywia), a

Greek measure of length, derived from the

body, was the distance from extremity to extremity of the out-

stretched arms, whence the name, from opcyw.


or to 4 cubits,
Antiquities,'

depth of the

s.

It was equal to 6 feet,


and was iJolh of 'he stadium. Smith's Dictionary of
No idea can at present be formed as to the real
v.

well.

'

HOLY PLACES, WRLTTEN BY ADAMNAN.

43

was included in the tribe of Manasseh and


Mount Ephraim, where Joseph's bones were buried.

of refuge;

XX.

it

Arculf,

Little Fountain in the Wilderness.

whom we

have often mentioned, saw

a small clear fountain, from which


said to

in

have drunk

besmeared with

it

is

St.

in a desert

John Baptist

is

protected by a stone covering

lime.

The Locusts and the Wild Honey.

XXI.

same John, the Evangelists write


Now his
food was locusts and wild honey.'^ Our Arculf saw, in that

As

to the

desert where

'

John dwelt, a very small kind of

locusts, the

bodies of which are small and short like the finger of a

hand, and which are easily captured in the grass, as their


flight is short like

the leaps of light frogs

As

they afford food for the poor.^

Arculf gave us

some

trees,

this as his

experience

to the
:

cooked
'

in oil,

wild honey,'

In that desert

saw

with broad round leaves which are of the colour

of milk and have the taste of honey f they are naturally

very

fragile,

in their

and those who wish

to eat

them

first

rub them

This wild honey

hands and then eat them.

is

thus

found in the woods.

XXII.

Our
place,

The Place where the Lord blessed the


Five Loaves and the Two Fishes.
Arculf,

whom we

have often mentioned, came to

where a -grassy and

level

ploughed from the day when on


1
^

it

plain

has

this

never been

the Saviour satisfied five

Matt. iii. 4.
Locusts are eaten by the Arabs, but only by the very poorest.
This interpretation is accepted by many commentators, among
St.

them by Meyer,

The term used is


XIX. 94, and Suidas,

I.e.

sense by Diod. Sic.

specially explained
s.

v.

aicjtig.

in

this

44

ARCULF'S NARRATIVE ABOUT THE

thousand

men

with five loaves and two fishes

are to be seen on

it

no buildings

Arculf saw only a few^ columns of

stone lying at the margin of the fountain from which they

day when the Lord refreshed

are said to have drunk on that

This place

them, in their hunger, with such a refection.

on this side of ^ the

is

Tiberias which

is

Sea of

Galilee, looking to the city of

to the south of

it.^

The Sea of Tiberias and Capharnaum.

XXIII.

Those who, coming down from Jerusalem, wish

Capharnaum, proceed,
a straight

in

course,

Cinnereth, which
of Galilee

is

as Arculf relates,

and thence

Blessing, at a point

along

the

also the sea of Tiberias

they pass the

to reach

through Tiberias

Lake

of

and the sea

the above-mentioned

site of

where two ways meet, and proceeding

along the margin of the above-mentioned lake, at no great


distance they

come

to

Capharnaum, on the sea

coast,

upon

the borders of Zabulon and Nepthalim. Arculf, who observed


it

from a neighbouring mountain, relates that

and

is

has no wall

confined in a narrow space between the mountain

and the
distance

extending along the sea coast

lake,

for

a long

having the mountain on the north and the lake

on the south,
1

it

C. reads,

'

it

stretches from west to east.*


^

four.'

'

Opposite,' Z., B.,

V.,

R.

Compare Ant. Mar., p. 8, note i St. Paula, p. 14 Abb. Dan., p. 63.


The site referred to by Arculf appears to be that around the 'Ain el
Fuliyeh, half-way between Tiberias and el Mejdel (referred to as 'Ain
'

Recovery of Jerusalem,' p. 359). Tradition at present


brow of the hill between Kurn Hattin and Tiberias as
the spot of the Feeding of the Five Thousand. The spot often referred
to as the Mensa Christi appears to be el 'Oreimeh, a small artificial
square plateau above 'Ain et Tin, close to Kh. Minieh (P. F. M., vol. i.,
Compare
All these places are on the west side of the lake.
p. 369).
Barideh

in

'

points to the

'

City of Jerusalem,' p. 46.


^

The evidence

vague

of Arculf as to the site of

to allow of its being

that are

now

in dispute

Capernaum

is

sufficiently

quoted by the supporters of both the

Kh. Minieh and Tell Hum.

sites

HOLY PLACES, WRITTEN BY ADAMNAN.

XXIV.
The

its

city of Nazareth, as Arculf

on a mountain.

situated

is

Nazareth and

walled, yet

Churches.

who stayed
like

is,

in

it

relates,

Capharnaum, un-

has large houses built of stone, and also two

it

One

very large churches.


city, is built

It

45

upon two

of these, in the middle of the

on the spot where there once

vaults,

stood the house in which our Lord the Saviour was brought
up.i

Among the mounds

been

said, is

citizens,
is

has

is

a very clear spring, frequented by

all

the

same spring
who draw water from it,
raised in vessels to the church above by means of

wheels.
site

this church,^ which, as

supported upon two mounds and intervening

arches, there

water

below

and from the

The

other church

is

reputed to be built on the

of the house in which the Archangel Gabriel

addressed the Blessed Mary,

whom

This information as to Nazareth we have

at that hour.3

obtained from the sainted Arculf,


nights and as

longer in

it,

came and

he found there alone

many

as he

who stayed

there

two

days, but was prevented from staying

was compelled to hasten onwards by a


Burgundian

soldier of Christ, well acquainted with sites, a


living a solitary

life,

Peter by name,

circuitously to that solitary* place

who

thence returned

where he had formerly

stayed.

The house of the Virgin appears to be the irregularly-shaped


known as The Virgin's Kitchen. P. F. M., vol. i., p. 276.
C. reads, Between the mounds of the two churches.'
' The present buildings in en Nasirah are, of course, of a far later

grotto
''

'

this.
But the Greek Church of St. Gabriel has a spring
of water rising just north of the high altar, with an opening in the floor
to the conduit, which carries the water south to the Virgin's Well, or

period than

the Fountain of the Annunciation, the only well in Nazareth.


1

'

Holy,' B., V.

ARCULF'S NARRATIVE ABOUT THE

46

XXV. Mount
Mount Tabor

Tabor.
from the Lake of

Galilee, three miles

is in

Cinnereth, marvellously round on every

side,

looking from

we have

just

named.

northern side over the lake

its

It is

very grassy and flowery, having an ample plain


pleasant summit, and

is

surrounded by

In the middle of this level surface

For

cells.

not drawn up to a narrow peak, but

is

its

a very large wood.

a great monastery of

is

monks, with a large number of their

on

is

summit

its

spread over a level

surface of twenty-four^ furlongs in length, while

its

height

thirty furlongs.^

is

On

this

higher plain are also three very celebrated

churches^ of no small construction, according to the number


of those tabernacles of which Peter spoke to the Lord on

holy mountain, while he rejoiced

^that

but yet was terrified

vision,

that

we should be here

three tabernacles, one for


for Elias.'*

The

by

in

saying

it,

the heavenly
'
:

It is

good

Thou wilt, let us make here


Thee and one for Moses and one
if

buildings of the monasteries and the three

churches mentioned above, with the

cells of the

monks, are

Twenty-three,' C, B., Bern.

'

Jebel et

little less

Tor is a conical mountain with a flat summit, which is a


than a quarter of a mile long and one-eighth of a mile wide,

1843 feet above the sea-level, 1500 feet above the Plain of Esdraelon
at the foot.

The southern

face

is

almost bare, but the northern

is

clothed to the top with a forest of oak and terebinth, mingled with

The Land and the Book.'


There are still to be traced on the summit the foundations of three
churches which the markings of the stones show to have been built
in Crusading times.
See P. F. M., vol. i.. pp. 388-391. The idea
that Mount Tabor was the scene of the Transfiguration still strangely
syringa.

'

survives in spite of

all

proof to the contrary.

earlier date than the Crusades, as


still

earlier references

Bordeaux Pilgrim,
Olives.

in Ant.

p. 25,

shown by

Mar., p.

It

dates from a

this passage,
St.

Paula,

p.

places the Transfiguration on the

St.

Matt.

much

and by the

The
14.
Mount of

xvii. 4.

HOLY PLA CES, WRITTEN BY ADA MNA N.


surrounded by a stone

all

47

There the sainted Arculf

wall.^

spent one night on the top of that holy mountain, for

Burgundian

Peter, the

Christian,

those places, would not allow

him

longer, but hurried


It

him

who was

^a/3w^,

and

in

name

of that famous

and

longiiu,

Latin with the aspirate Thabor, the

letter o

be written

to

in

Greek with

The proper orthography

being long.

guide in

on.2

should here be noted that the

mountain ought

his

to stay in one hospice

of the word

is

found

Greek books.^

in

XXVI.

Damascus.

Damascus, according to the account of Arculf, who


stayed some days in

it,

is

a great royal city, situated in a

wide plain, surrounded by an ample circuit of walls, and

by frequent towers. Without the walls there


number of olive groves round about, while four

further fortified

are a large

great rivers flow through

The king

it,

bringing great joy to the

city.

of the Saracens has seized the government,

and

reigns in that city, and a large church has been built there

honour of

in

in that

same

St.
city,

John

There has also been

Baptist.

built,

a church of unbelieving Saracens which

they frequent.

XXVIL Tyre.
Our

who

Arculf,

visited so

many

districts, also

entered

Tyre, the metropolis of the province of Phenicia, which in

Hebrew and Syriac is called Tsor, and which is said in


Greek and Latin and barbarous histories to have had no
1

This wall

may be

that built

by Josephus round the top of the

mountain.
^

C.

adds,

'

For

this Peter, leaving his parents

and

his country,

now an exile for a long time for the Lord's sake.'


' The Greek form is ea/3wp, but it is also represented by
(Josephus),

and

'

kTa[ivf>wv (Polybius).

was

'Ira/Svpioj^

ARCULF'S NARRATIVE ABOUT THE

48

approach from the land.


But some say that afterwards
mounds were thrown up by Nabuchodonosor, King of the
Chaldeans, and that a place was prepared for darts and
battering-rams in the assault, so that the island became

This city was beautiful and very

part of the level plain. i


noble, and

not unworthily rendered in Latin

it is

and the

for the island

narrowness.

'

narrow,'

have the same characteristic

city

the land of Chanaan, where

It is situated in

woman

the Chananite or Tyrophenician

lived,

who

is

men-

site of

Tyre

tioned in the Gospel.


It is to

and the

be noted that the account of the


of

site

Mount Thabor,^ given by the

sainted Arculf,

complete accordance with what we have excerpted


above from the commentaries of St. Hieronymus. Also what
in

is

we have above

stated as to the site and form of

Mount

Thabor, according to the narrative of the sainted Arculf,

no way

from what

differs

St.

Hieronymus narrates

in

as to the

and the marvellous roundness of that mountain.


From Mount Thabor to Damascus is a seven^ days' journey.*
situation

XXVIII.

Alexandria, and the River Nile and

its

Crocodiles.
That great
was formerly
city,

city,

which was once the metropolis of Egypt,

called in

deriving

its

famous among

all

name

Hebrew

No.^

It is a

of Alexandria, a

nations, from

king of Macedonia, from

whom

its
it

very populous

name known and

founder Alexander, the

received both the magni-

was by Alexander the Great (who took Tyre after a seven


B.C. 332) that the island was united to the mainland by
an artificial mole. The siege by Nebuchadnezzar, which lasted for
nineteen years, was probably ended by capitulation on honourable
1

It

months' siege,

terms.
3

Some MSS.,
The No' of
'

'two,'

'

four,'

'

the Old Testament

andria (as Jerome supposed).

'

And

eight.'
is

Thabor,' only in L.

" C. ends here.


undoubtedly Thebes, not Alex-

HOLY PLACES, WRITTEN BY ADAMNAN.


tude of a city and

its

name.

As to

its situation,

us an account, which differs in no

49

Arculf gave

way from what we have

learned in the course of our previous reading.

Going down from Jerusalem and beginning his voyage


at Joppa, he had a journey of forty days to Alexandria,
of which Nahum the prophet speaks briefly, when he sa^s
'

Water round about

its walls.' 1

it,

whose

For on the south

riches are the sea, waters are

it is

surrounded by the mouths

of the river Nile, while on the north,^ as the outline of


position clearly shows, it

is

city lies like

and the

situated upon' the Nile

so that on this side and on that

it is

its

sea,

surrounded by water. The

an enclosure between Egypt and the Great Sea,

without a [natural] haven,

difficult to

approach from without.

more difficult than others, in form like the human


body, more capacious at the head and the roads, but narrower
in the straits, in which it receives the movements of the sea
and ships, by which some aids to breathing are given to the
When one has escaped the narrows and mouths of
port.
the port, a stretch of sea is spread out before one, far and
Its port is

wide, like the form of the rest of the body.


side of the port there

is

a small island,

high tower, which the Greeks and the

common

called,

Nahum

"

MSS.

from

its

use,

On

the right

on which

is

a very

Latins have

Pharus/ because

it is

seen

in

by

(See former note.)


surrounded by the Mareotic Lake thus, as the
' Perhaps ' between.'
outline,' etc.
* The long, narrow island of Pharus, stretching to the north of
Alexandria, and connected with it by the Mole (called from its length
'Heptastadium'), had at its eastern end the -lighthouse from which it

took

its

world.
cessor.
feet in

iii.

8,

read,

of No.

'it is

name, which was one of the seven wonders of the ancient


It was begun by Ptolemy Soter, and completed by his sucIt consisted of several stories, and is said to have been 400
height it was a square structure of white marble on its top
;

were burned for the direction of mariners, as the entrance to the


magnificent harbour, between Pharus and the headland of Lochias,
was dangerous and rocky. See Smith's Dictionaries of the Bible and
fires

of Geography, and Kitto's Cyclopaedia,

s.

v.

'

Alexandria.^

ARCULF'S NARRATIVE ABOUT THE

so

voyagers at a great distance,

in

order that, before they

approach the port, they may, specially during the night,


recognise the proximity of land by the light of the flames,

may

that they

not be deceived by the darkness and

upon rocks or

Men

entrance.

fail

fall

recognise the boundaries of the

to

are accordingly

employed there by

whom

torches and other masses of wood which have been collected


are set on

fire

to serve as a guide to the landj

narrow entrance of the

straits,

the

showing the

bosom of the waves, and

the windings of the entrance, lest the slender keel should

graze the rocks and

the very entrance strike upon the

in

rocks that are hidden by the waves.

Accordingly a ship

ought to be somewhat deflected from the straight course, to


prevent

its

stones.

For the approach

running into danger from striking on hidden

right side, but the port

island also,

the port

in

is

Round

the

have been regularly

laid

wider on the

beams of immense

size

narrower on the
left.

down, to prevent the foundations of the island from yielding

and being loosened


by the injury. So that the middle channel, among rugged
rocks and broken masses of earth, is beyond doubt always
to the constant collision of the rising sea,

unquiet, and

it is

dangerous

for ships to enter

through the

roughness of the passage.

The
quite

port extends in size over thirty furlongs, and


safe

mentioned

even
straits

waves of the

the

in

greatest

storms,

as

it

is

above-

the

and the obstacle of the island repel the

sea, the

bosom

of the port being so defended

by them as to be removed from the reach of tempests and


at peace

Nor

from breakers by which the entrance

is

made

rough.

are the safety and the size of the port undeservedly

so great, since there


ful for

must be borne

the use of the whole

city.i

innumerable population of those


1
'

into

it

whatever

is

districts give rise to

World,' V.

need-

For the needs of the

much

HOLY PLACES, WRITTEN BY ADAMNA^.


commerce
very

whole

for the use of the

fruitful,

and, besides abounding in

trades of the earth,

it

in

rain,

and the

district is

other gifts and

all

supplies corn for the whole world, and

other necessary merchandise.

wanting

city,

51

The region

is

beyond doubt

but the irrigation of the Nile supplies

spontaneous showers, so that the

fields

are tempered at

once by the rain of heaven and by the fruitfulness of the


earth

and

for

and the situation

is

thus convenient both for sailors

husbandmen. These

those sow

sail,

round on their voyages, those

till

these are borne

the land, sowing without

need of ploughing, travelling without waggons.

You

see

by watercourses, and houses throughout the land raised as it were upon walls, on the banks of
the navigable rivers, standing on the edge of each bank of
The river is navigable, they say, up to the
the river Nile.
a country intersected

city of

further

Elephanti

by the

a ship

is

cataracts, that

prevented from proceeding

is,

flowing hills of water, not

from want of depth, but from the

fall

of the whole river

downward rush of the waters.


The narrative of the sainted Arculf about

and

the

of Alexandria and the Nile

is

the situation

proved not to

differ

from

what we have learned from our reading in the books of


We have, indeed, abbreviated some excerpts from
others.
these writings and inserted

them

in this description, as to

the havenlessness of this city or the difficulty of

its

haven,

and the tower built on it, as to the terminal


position of Alexandria between the sea and the mouths of
Hence it happens beyond doubt that
the river Nile, etc.
which is as it were choked between
city,
of
the
the site
as to the island

these two limits, extends from west to east very far along a

narrow stretch of ground, as the narrative of Arculf shows ;i


he relates that he began to enter the city at the third hour
' Alexandria is stated by Pliny to be four miles in length, nearly a
mile in breadth, and fifteen miles in circumference.

42

ARCULF'S NARRATIVE ABOUT THE

52

month

of the day in the

on account of the

of October, and

length of the city could hardly reach the other end of


length before evening.

It is

surrounded by a long

its

circuit

of walls, fortified by frequent towers, constructed along the

margin of the

river

and the curving shore of the

Further, as one coming from

Egypt

sea.

enters the city of

Alexandria, one meets on the north^ side a large church, in

which Mark the Evangelist

is

buried

his

shown before the altar in the eastern end of


church, and a monument of him has been

sepulchre

is

this four-sided

built

above

it

of marble.

So much,

then, about Alexandria, which, as

we have

said

No before it was so much enlarged by


Alexander the Great, and which, as we further said above,
adjoins what is called the Canopean mouth of the river
above, was called

Nile, separating Asia

On

from Egypt and also Lybia.

account of the inundation of Egypt by the river Nile, they

mounds along

construct raised

its

banks, which,

they

if

should be broken by the negligence of the watchmen or by


too great an irruption of water,
flooded

fields,

by no means

irrigate the

but spoil them and lay them waste.

On

this

account a considerable number of the inhabitants of the


plains of Egypt, according to the narrative of the sainted

Arculf,

who often

sailed over that river in

Egypt,

live

above

the water in houses supported on transverse beams.

Arculf relates that crocodiles Hve in the river Nile, quadrupeds of no great

one of them,
'

if it

size,

very voracious, and so strong that

can find a horse or an ass or an ox eating

grass on the river bank, suddenly rushes out and attacks


it,

or even seizing one foot of the animal with

drags

it

its

jaws,

under the water, and completely devours the entire

animal.
1

Some

MSS

add, 'near at hand.'

HOLY PLACES, WRITTEN BY ADAMNAN.

BOOK

53

III.

The City of Constantinople.

I.

Arculf, who has been mentioned so often, on his return


from Alexandria, stayed for some days in the island of
Crete, and sailed thence to Constantinople, where he spent
some months. This city is, beyond doubt, the metropolis

Roman

of the

Empire.

It is

the sea except on the north

surrounded by the waves of


the sea breaking out from the

Great Sea for forty miles,^ while from the wall of Constantinople

it still

no small

up to the mouths

further stretches sixty miles^

of the river Danube.

This imperial city

is

surrounded by

circuit of walls, twelve miles in length

promontory by the
Carthage,

walls

sea-side, having,

built

along

like

f it is a
Alexandria or

the sea coast,

additionally

strengthened by frequent towers, after the fashion of Tyre


within the city walls

it

has numerous houses, very

which are of marvellous

size;

As
which

to

its

The Foundation of that

Rome.

City.

foundation the citizens relate this tradition,

they have received

from their

ancestors

Emperor Constantine, having gathered together an


1

Others,

'

The

and

its

'

of

these are of stone, and are

built after the fashion of the dwelling-houses of

II.

many

sixty.'

Others,

'

The

infinite

forty.'

walls built by the younger Theodosius to surround the capital

suburbs

made

eleven English miles,

the circumference of the city between ten

and

ARCULF'S NARRATIVE ABOUT THE

54

multitude of men, and collected from

all

sides infinite

supplies, so that all other cities were almost stripped bare,

began to build a city to bear


that

is,

Cilicia, across

in

his

name on

the Asian side

the sea which, in these districts,

separates Asia from E~urope.

But one night, while the innumerable forces of workmen were sleeping in their tents
over the vast length of the camp,

all

the different kinds

of tools used by the artificers of the different works were

suddenly removed, no one knew how.

With dawn, many

workmen, troubled and downcast, brought before the


Emperor Constantine himself a complaint as to the sudden

of the

occult removal of the tools

inquired of them

camp ?'
Then next

stracted from the

work -tools.'

and the King consequently

Did you hear of other things being ab-

'

'

Nothing,' they say,

the

'

but

all

King commands them

'

the

Go

quickly to the sea coasts of the neighbouring districts on

both sides [of the

you chance

straits]

to find

and search them

your tools

in

any place

carefully,

and

if

in the country,

watch over them there meanwhile, and do not bring them


back here, but let some of you return to me, so that I may
have accurate information as to the finding of the tools.'

On

hearing

directions,

this,

workmen

the

follow out the King's

and going away did as he ordered, searching the

boundaries of the territories next the sea on both sides.

And

behold, on the European side, across the sea, they

found the tools gathered together

between two
are

On making

seas.

sent back to

the

King, and

announce the finding of the


learning

this,

the

a heap in one place

in

the discovery,

on their

some of them
arrival

they

tools in such a place.

King immediately orders trumpeters

On
to

pass through the camp, blowing their trumpets and ordering


the force to move its camp, saying
Let us remove from
'

this place to build a city

to us

;'

on the spot divinely pointed out


and at the same time he had ships made ready.

HOLY

PLACES, WRITTEN

and crossed over with

him by

purpose.^

their

55

whole force to the spot where

his

the tools were found, as he


to

BY ADAMNAN.

knew

There he

at

shown

that the place thus

removal was that designed by God


once founded a

city,

which

name being compounded

for the

is

called

own
name and the Greek word for city, so that the founder's
name is retained in the former part of the compound.
Constantinople, the

Let

this description of the situation

of his

and the foundation

of that royal city suffice.

III.

The Church

in
IS

But we must not be


round church

which the Cross of the Lord


PRESERVED.
silent as to that

in that city, built of stone

most celebrated

and of marvellous

According to the narrative of the sainted Arculf,


who visited it for no short time, it rises from the bottom of
its foundations in three walls, being built in triple form to a
size.

great height, and

it is

finished in a very round simple crown-

ing vault of great beauty.


arches, with a wide space

This

is

supported on great

between each of the above-men-

tioned walls, suited and convenient either for dwelling or


for

praying to

God

in.

In the northern part of the interior

shown a very large and very beautiful ambry,


kept a wooden chest, which is similarly
in which is
covered over with wooden work in which is shut up that
wooden Cross of Salvation on which our Saviour hung for
of the house

is

the salvation of the

human

the sainted Arculf relates,

is

race.

This notable chest, as

raised with

its

treasure of such

preciousness upon a golden^ altar, on three consecutive days


after the lapse of a year.
^

This altar also

is

in the

Constantine seems to have claimed Divine guidance in the selection


new capital, and in fixing its boundaries but the

of the site of his

legends attached to these facts are of comparatively late origin.


^

same

'

Under a

brazen,' Bern.

ARCULF'S NARRATIVE ABOUT THE

56

round church, being two cubits long and one broad.


three successive days only throughout the year

Cross raised and placed on the

altar,

that

is,

when the Emperor

the Supper of the Lord,'

church and, approaching the

enter the

is

On

the Lord's

on [the day

of]

and the armies

altar,

after that

sacred chest has been opened, kiss the Cross of Salvation.


First of all the

Emperor

of the world kisses

it

with bent

then one going up after another in the order of rank

face,

or age,

next day, that

the people, approach

it

in

reverence.

and

all

the third day, that

it

day

of] the Paschal Sabbath,^ the bishop

after

him approach

the

women

in order,

and

all

is,

on [the

the clergy

with fear and trembling and

honour, kissing the Cross of Victory, which, is placed

all

When

its chest.

of

the above-mentioned order and

On

kiss

all

the

on the sixth day of the week before

is,

Easter, the Queen, the matrons,

with

Then on

Cross with honour.

the

kiss

all

in

these sacred and joyful kissings of the

Sacred Cross are finished, that venerable chest

is

closed,

borne back to

its

ambry.

and with
But

honoured treasure

its

this also

is

should be carefully noted that there are not

two but three short pieces of wood in the Cross, that is,
the cross-beam and the long one which is cut and divided
into

two equal parts

while from these threefold venerated

beams when the chest

is

a wonderful fragrance, as
collected in

gladdening

it,

if all

wonderfully

all in

that church,

opened, there arises an odour of

who

full

sorts of flowers

had been

of sweetness, satiating and

the open space before the inner walls of

stand

still

as they enter at that

moment

from the knots of those threefold beams a sweet-smell-

for

ing liquid

distills,

like pressed-out

oil,

which causes

all

i.e., Maundy Thursday.


on the Saturday before Easter. The practice of calling the
Lord's Day the Sabbath was unknown for nearly a thousand years
'

'

In Ccena Domini,'

2 I.e.,

after this date.

HOLY PLACES, WRITTEN BY ADAMNAN.


men

of whatever race,

who have assembled and

57

enter the

church, to perceive the above-mentioned fragrance of so


great sweetness.

drop of
health,

be

it

This hquid

laid

on the

is

such that

if

even a

little

they easily recover their

sick,

whatever be the trouble or disease they have been

afflicted with.

But as to these

IV.

let this suffice.

St.

George the Confessor.

Arculf, the sainted

man, who gave us

as to the Cross of the Lord, which he

all

these details

saw with

his

own

eyes and kissed, gave us also an account of a Confessor

named

George,^ which he learned in the city of Constanti-

nople from some well-informed citizens,

tomed

to narrate

it

in this

form

who were

accus-

In a house in the city of Diospolis there stands the

marble column of George the Confessor, to which, during


This chapter has a special historical interest, as the earliest account
George known to have been circulated in Britain and it is
worthy of notice that it was in the northern part of England, where
this narrative is known to have obtained special favour, that we first
^

of

St.

George holding any special position (a place being assigned


Anglo-Saxon ritual of Durham, which is probably of the
early part of the ninth century, and a Passion of St. George' having
been written by ^Ifric, Archbishop of York, a.d. 1020-1051), While
there has been much controversy as to whether there ever was an
find St.
to

him

in the

'

historical

person corresponding to the legendary

was, as to which of the countless Georges he was,

saint,
it

and,

may

if

there

probably be

now accepted

that there really was a George, prior in time to the


Arian intruding Bishop of Alexandria, known as George of Cappadocia
(whom Gibbon identified with the George in question), and that he was

connected

in

some way with Diospolis or Lydda.

For a

list

of the

authorities to be consulted, as well as for a statement of the facts, see

an

article

Diet,

by the Rev. G. T. Stokes, on 'Georgius-Martyr'

of Christian Biog., vol.

remarks of Professor Bright


of Cappadocia,' p. 640.

ii.,

pp. 645-648,

in closing

and

a previous

in Smith's

specially the wise

article

on

'

Georgius

ARCULF'S NARRATIVE ABOUT THE

58

a time of persecution, he

and on which

his likeness

was bound while he was scourged,


impressed

is

loosed from his chains and lived for


scourging.

he was, however,

many

years after the

happened one day that a hard-hearted and un-

It

mounted on horseback, having entered that

believing fellow,

house and seen the marble column, asked those who were
there,'Whose

is

this

They reply, 'This


who was bound to
this, that

object,

likenessengravedonthemarblecolumn?'

is

the likeness of George the Confessor,

this

most rough

and instigated by the

assailant penetrating the

devil, struck

if

it

were a

ball of

in

Its

mass

in

with his lance

The

lance of that

a marvellous manner, as

snow, perforated the exterior of

its

iron point sticking fast

the interior and could not be drawn out


shaft,

hearing

enraged at the insensible

at the likeness of the sainted Confessor.

stone column, and

On

column and scourged.'

fellow, greatly

by any means.

however, striking the marble likeness of

sainted Confessor,

was broken on the

also of that wretched fellow, on

The

outside.

the

horse

which he was mounted,

moment on the pavement


The wretched man himself too, falling

dead under hini


house.

"that

was retained

at that

ground at the same time, put out

his

column, and his

it

fingers, entering

fell

of the
to the

hands to the marble


as

were

if it

On

flour or

clay, stuck fast

impressed in that column.

the miserable

man, who could not draw back the ten

fingers of his

two hands, as they stuck

seeing

fast together in the

marble likeness of the sainted Confessor, invokes


tence the

name

of the Eternal

God and

in peni-

of His Confessor,

and prays with tears to be released from that bond.


merciful God,

but that he

who does not wish

may

be converted and

penitence, and not only released


visible

bond of marble, but

from the invisible bonds of

The

the death of a sinner


live,

accepted his tearful

him from

that present

also mercifully set

sin,

this,

saved by

faith.

Mm

free

HOLY

PLACES, WRITTEN
clearly

shown

been held with God,

whom

Hence
since

it

his

is

made

made

he confessed amid tortures,

in the

made

weak

the

same course

is

im-

fingers of that fellow,

of nature were impenetrating,

powerfully penetrating, which at


the marble that even that hard
back,

nature,

penetrable by penitence.^ which also

the equally impenetrating lance of his adversary

penetrating, and

which

59

what honour George has

in

which, in the course of

bust,

penetrable, was

BY ADAMNAN.

were so fastened

first

man

in

could not draw them

but which, when in the same

moment he was

so

terrified and thus softened into penitence, he drew back by


Marvellous to say, the marks of his
the pity of God.
twice five fingers appear down to the present day inserted

up

to the roots in the

marble column

Arculf inserted in their place his

own

and the sainted

ten fingers, which

up to the roots. Further, the blood of that


fellow's horse, the haunch of which, as it fell dead on the
pavement, was broken in two, cannot be washed out or
similarly entered

removed by any means, but that horse's blood remains indelible on the pavement of the house down to our times.
The sainted Arculf told us another narrative as to which
there

is

no doubt, about the same George tht Confessor,

which he had learned from some eye-witnesses of sufficient


trustworthiness, in the above-mentioned city of Constantinople,

who were

in the habit of telling incidents

with that sainted Confessor


Diospolis on

layman, entering the city of

horseback at a time

were gathering there from


to

that house,

in

column with the

which

as

its front,

if

of

the

sainted

and entering

he were speaking

'To

of George himself:

when many thousands


for an expedition, came

the above-mentioned

impression

George imprinted on
to the likeness

sides

all
is

connected

began to say
the presence

George the Confessor,

thee,

Others read

it,

in

marble

Confessor

'

power.'

ARCULF'S NARRATIVE ABOUT THE

6o

commend myself and my

horse, in order that

we may both

be preserved by the virtue of thy prayers from


of war and disease and water, and
to this

city after

God

merciful

may

return in safety

the close of the expedition

accordance with the offering of our poverty,

make

my

horse which

if

a
in

I will offer in

greatly love, and will

over to thee in the sight of thy likeness.'

it

and

grant thee our prosperous return,

will

return to thee this

dangers

all

Speedily

finishing these few words, the fellow left the house and,

comrades, joined

with

his

and

entered

on

the

dangers of war and

safety to

in

the

Diospolis,

having

and

scattered

Christ-worshipper,

horse,

After

expedition.

perished,

in

varied

of wretched

he returns

by the favour of God to George


mounted on the same beloved

purchased deliverance

misfortunes by that committal, and


that house

army

the

many

among many thousands

who were

fellows

multitude of

the

from

all

grievous

he joyfully enters

which was preserved the likeness of that

him gold to the value of


and addresses the sainted George as if he were

sainted Confessor, bringing with


his horse,

present

'

Sainted Confessor,

who has brought me back


constancy and prayer.

give thanks to Eternal

in safety^

Wherefore

God

through thy exalted

bring to thee twenty

solidi 2 of gold, the price of my horse which I at the first


committed to thee and which thou hast preserved down to

the present day.'

Saying

this,

he lays down the above-

described weight of gold at the feet of the sainted likeness


of the Confessor, loving his horse

more than the

gold,

and

then leaving the house, after kneeling down, mounting his


beast he urges
at
^

it

to go forward, but

it

could not be

moved

all.
V. reads,

'

through so

many and

so great dangers by the

power

of thy prayer.'
^

The

weighed

solidus or aureus, from the time of Constantine the Great,


^^^ lb.

(Smith's Diet, of Antiq.,

j.

v.

Aurum).

HOLY PLACES, WRITTEN BY ADAMNAN.


Seeing
house

the

this,

fellow

and brings

and re-enters the

dismounts

another ten

saying

solidi,

art

among

me

the dangers in the expedition, but

hard and greedy

he lays the ten


sainted Confessor

'
:

With

see thou

this,

These

also

give thee in addition, so

my

horse for the

these words he returns, and again mount-

ing his horse, urges


if

my

above the twenty, saying to the

that thou mayest be appeased and release


journey.'

to

Saying

in the sale of the horse.'

solidi

Sainted

'

Confessor, a gentle guardian hast thou been for


horse,

6i

it

forward, but

fixed in the spot, nor could

it

remained standing as

move even one

it

more? After mounting and dismounting

foot.

What

four several times,

entering the house with ten solidi and returning to his im-

movable
all

horse, he kept running hither

his urging

he could not move

but by

mass of

his horse, until a

Then

sixty solidi was gathered there.

and thither

he repeats

at length

the above-mentioned speech about the gentle humanity of


the sainted Confessor and the safe guardianship in the
expedition, and he also mentions in similar terms the hardsaid,

and

house he at

last

ness and even the greediness in the sale, as


after four several times returning to the

is

addressed the sainted George in this manner


Confessor,

now

see clearly

what thy

weight of gold, the whole sixty


I

offer to thee as a gift,

solidi,

and also

my

will

'
:

Sainted
All this

is.

which thou

desirest,

horse

which

itself

promised to make over to thee before, on account of the exnow I make it over to thee, although bound with
pedition
;

invisible bonds,

which

will

however, as

believe,

released through the honour thou hast with God.'


finished this speech, he goes out from the house

be soon

Having
and

finds

the horse released on that very moment, and he brings it


with him into the house and makes it over to the sainted

Confessor in the sight of that likeness, and departs joyfully


praising Christ.

ARCULF'S NARRATIVE ABOUT THE

62

Hence

it is

to the Lord,

what

whether

it

written in the

is

deemed
it,

plainly gathered that whatever

or changed in

is

consecrated

man

or animal, according to

book of

Leviticus, cannot be re-

be

any way

for if

'

any one shall change

both that which was changed, and that for which

changed, shall be consecrated to the Lord,'' and

it

it

was

shall

not be redeemed.

v. The Picture of
who

-Arculf,

Mary.

St.

has been so often mentioned, gave us an ac-

curate account, obtained from

some well-informed witnesses

in the city of Constantinople, as to the bust of the holy

mother of the Lord


to

hang on the

In that metropolitan city there used

wall of a house a picture of Blessed Mary,

depicted on a small

wooden

tablet, as to

was, learned from one

who answered him,

that it was the


That unbelieving Jew,

likeness of Saint Mary, ever virgin.

hearing

this, at

in great

privy

which a certain

and hard-hearted man, on inquiring whose the picture

stolid

the instigation of the devil, took that picture

wrath from the wall, and rushed to a neighbouring


there, to dishonour Christ, bor.n of

and

Mary, he cast

the picture of His mother through a hole


lay below,

and having dishonoured

his power,

he departed.^

how he

lived, or

not known.

Now

of what sort

But, after

man

it

what he did afterwards, or


the end of his life was, is

the wretch's

common

upon the filth that


by every means in

departure, another

people, a Christian,

who was

very zealous in religious matters, coming in and

knowing

fortunate

of the

what had happened, searched


and rescued
it,

it

and washed
^

Lev. xxvii.

'^

The

from the
it

for the

human

filth

image of Saint Mary,

amidst which he found

clean with the purest water, and taking

lo, 33.

original cannot be literally translated in this sentence.

it

HOLY
home

PLACES, WRITTEN BY ADAMNAN.

with him, treated

with great honour.

it

wood of

to say, there always distils from the

Mary

Blessed

a true boiling

he saw with his

own

oil,

honour of Mary the mother of Jesus, of

My

Marvellous

that picture of

which, as Arculf used to say,

This marvellous

eyes.

63

oil

proves the

whom

the Father

The same
Son of God Himself, 'The Lord Thy
God hath anointed Thee with the oil of gladness above

says,

'

In

holy

oil,

have

anointed Him.'i

Psalmist says to the

Thy

fellows.'^

This narrative, which we have written about the situation

and the foundation of Constantinople, and also about that


in which the wood of salvation is preserved,

round church
etc.,

we learned

priest,

who remained

Arculf;

greatest of the

an island

in the

Great Sea towards the

sounds so loudly, like thunder,

by the

Sicily,

terrific

the

far

feast to that

Vulcan

twelve^ miles from Sicily, in which

ground of

saintep

Afterwards he sailed thence to Rome.

VL Mount
is

in

Roman Empire, from the Paschal

of the Lord's birth.

There

mouth of the
that city, by

carefully from the

though so

tremor, but

far

it

all

away,

east,

Mount

Vulcan,* which

day and

night, that the

is

is

thought to be shaken

seems to sound more loudly on

the sixth day of the week, and the Sabbath

it

appears

This
always to burn by night, and to smoke by day.
writing
mountain
as
I
was
he
that
about
told
me
Arculf
;

saw
day;

with his

it

its

own

eyes, burning

by

night, but

smoking by

thunder-like sound he heard with his

own

ears,

while he was staying in Sicily for some days.


'

Psalm

Ixxxix. 20.

Psalm

xlv. 7.

'

Fourteen,' G.

island of Volcano, the ancient Hiera, also known as Vulcani


Insula, from its volcanic phenomena, is the southernmost of the Lipari
Islands the old jEoliae, or Vulcaniae, Insulas, to the north of Sicily.
*

The

twelve geographical miles from Sicily. See Smith's Dictionary


of Greek and Roman Geography, .r. v. ^olise Insute.
It is

ARCULF'S NARRATIVE ABOUT THE HOLY PLACES.

64

VII. Epilogue.
Therefore

beseech those

who

shall

read these short

books, to pray for the divine clemency, on behalf of the


sainted priest Arculf,

who most

willingly dictated to us

these facts of his experience of the holy places which he


visited,

which

have,

in

scribed, although placed

however unworthy words, dein

midst of laborious and

the

nearly insupportable ecclesiastical cares, which

me

the whole day from

all sides.

Therefore

come upon
charge the

reader of these experiences that he neglect not to pray to


Christ, the

Judge of the ages,

writer of them.

for

me, a miserable sinner, the

A LITTLE BOOK CONCERNING THE HOLY PLACES,


WHICH BEDE COMPOSED BY ABBREVIATING THE
WORKS OF FORMER WRITERS.
HAVE BRIEFLY DESCRIBED BOTH THE BOUNDS AND THE SITES OF
THE PLACES, WHICH THE SACRED PAGE MAKES MORE MEMORABLE,
I, BEDE, FOLLOWING THE GUIDANCE OF
LATER AS WELL AS OF
OLDER WRITERS, EXAMINING WHAT THE CHART Of THE MASTERS
I

TELLS.

GRANT, JESUS, THAT WE MAY EVER TEND TO THAT FATHERLAND,


WHICH THY PERFECT VISION BLESSES FOR EVERMORE.

THE VENERABLE BEDE COiNCERNING


THE HOLY PLACES.
Note. -The

references in the

margin are

corresponding

the

to

passages in Arculfs Narrative.

I. The Situation of Jerusalem.

The

which

situation of the city of Jerusalem,

almost circular in form,

rises

small extent, within which

is Arcaif,

p. 2.

with a circuit of walls of no

Mount

has also embraced

it

Sion, which

was once reckoned only

hanging the

city in the south like a citadel, the larger part

of the

its

vicinity, over-

under the mountain, upon the

lying

city

in

level

summit of a lower hill. After the Passion of the Lord, it


was destroyed by the Emperor Titus, but it was restored
and greatly enlarged by .^Elius Hadrian, after whom it is
also

now

Lord

Whence

called .^lia.

suffered

happens

it

that, while the

and was buried beyond the gates of the

now

the sites of His Passion and Resurrection are

city,

seen

within the walls.

In the great circuit of the walls there are

shown eighty-four

towers,

and six gates

David, to the west of Mount Sion

Valley of the Fuller

third, the

the Gate of Benjamin


little

gate

by which

of Josaphat

is

sixth, the

fifth,

Gate of

Or

'

St.

a portlet

first,

the Gate of

Stephen

that

is,

fourth,
p. 3-

the descent by steps to the Valley


are, howmore frequently used

Gate Thecuitis.^ There

ever, three of these gates that are


1

second, the Gate of the

of the Tekoites,' see Arculf, p.

2,

note

i, vi.

52

THE VENERABLE BEDE

68

one on the west, another on the north, a third on the east,


Mount Sion over-

while on the south the northern brow of

hangs the
towers

city,

and the part of the walls with

proved to have no gates, that

is

named Gate of David

interposed

from the above-

Mount Sion which


The situaprecipitous.

as far as that face of

looks eastward, where the rock


tion of the city

p. 4-

is,

its

brow of Mount Sion,

is

itself,

is

beginning from the northern

so disposed on a slight declivity

sloping to the lower ground of the northern and eastern


walls, that rain falling there does not settle, but rushes

through the eastern gates, carrying with

like rivers

the

filth

of the streets,

till it

joins the torrent of

down
it

Cedron

all

in

the Valley of Josaphat.


II.

The Church of Constantine and of Golgotha,


THE Church of the Resurrection and the
Sepulchre of the Lord, the Stone that was
ROLLED to the MOUTH OF THE TOMB, THE CHURCH
OF St. Mary, the Cup of the Lord and the
Sponge, THE Altar of Abraham, the Soldier's
Spear.
Such, then, as have entered the city from the

p. lo.

north to survey the holy places, must

first,

in

accordance

with the arrangements of the streets, turn to the Church


of Constantine, which

is

built in a magnificent

called the

Martyrium.

This was

and royal manner by the Emperor

Constantine, because on that spot the Cross of our Lord

was found by Helena,


is

his

mother.

To

the west of this

seen the Church of Golgotha, in which also the rock

appears which once bore the very Cross to which the body
of the
great

Lord was

size,

now

bearing a silver cross of

above which hangs a great circular chandelier of

brass with lamps.


is

nailed,

Below the

site of

the Cross of the Lord

a crypt cut out in the rock, in which sacrifice

is

wont to

CONCERNING THE HOLY PLACES.


be offered upon an altar

for

honoured dead persons, whose

bodies meanwhile are placed in the court.

church

of

this

the

'Ava<7Ta<ri<;,

again,

that

round

the

is

69

To

the west

church of

pp 5,6-

of the Resurrection of the Lord,

is,

surrounded with three walls, supported on twelve columns,

having a broad pathway

between each wall and the

left

next, containing three altars in three spaces in the middle


that

wall,

is,

has twice four gates, that


line

through the three

north-east,^
is

the

and the west.

to the south, the north,


is

entrances, running in a straight

walls, four of

and four to the south-east.

Tomb of the Lord,

them looking

to the

In the middle of this

cut out in the rock, of round form,

man

of such height that a

It

standing within

it

can touch the

top with his hand, with an entrance on the east at which


that great stone was placed

marks of the

iron tools.

the interior

On

the outside

shows the

still
it

completely

is

covered with marble up to the highest point of the


the very highest point, which

golden cross of large


this

Tomb

is

size.

is

roof, while

adorned with gold, bears a

In the northern part of

rock, seven feet in length, raised three

lamps burn here day and

nigh,t,

eight above on the right side.

mouth of

the

Tomb,

twelve

four below^ the Sepulchre,

The

stone which was

Tomb has been broken

pp.

s, 9.

in two,

smaller part standing as a square altar before the


the

same

palms above the

pavement, having an entrance on the southern side

placed at the

p- s-

the Sepulchre of the Lord, cut out in the

the

mouth of

while the larger part stands in the eastern side

of the church under the linen cloths, also forming a four-

sided altar.
is

The

colour of the

Tomb

and of the Sepulchre

white mixed with red.

The

four-sided

Church of the Mother of God

adjoins this church on

its

right side.

In the court

which joins the Martyrium and Golgotha


1

See page

6,

note

i.

also

is

p- 9-

p-

".

i^-

a recess (expdra),

Others,

'

within.'

THE VENERABLE BEDE

70

which the Cup of the Lord

in

kept

is

in a shrine,

be touched and kissed through an opening


is

a silver

quart;!

cup, with a handle on each


jt

jp,

Altar to sacrifice his son,

some size, on
by the people. The
a wooden cross in the

its

shaft having been broken in

held in reverence by the whole

have caused each of these

an

laid

soldier's spear is inserted in

it is

built

a wooden table of

is

portico of the Martyrium,

two

It

holding a French

Also on the spot where Abraham

which the alms of the poor are


p. 12-

and may-

the cover.

the Sponge, which afforded drink to the

jg

Lord.

p. II.

side,

in

depicted in a drawing, so that you

city.

have spoken of to be

may more

clearly realize

the description.^

IIL

The Temple, the Oratory of the Saracens,


THE Pool of Bethesda, the Fountain of Siloa,
THE Church built upon Mount Sion, the Place
OF the Stoning of St. Stephen, the Middle of
the World.
we have mentioned lie beyond
whence a swelling of the ground, lessening

All these sacred places

Mount
pp. 4.

5-

Sion,

towards the north, stretches.

In the lower part of

the city, where the temple was close to the wall on the east,

and was connected with the


crossing of any,

is

now

city itself

by

a bridge for the

a square building, apparently capable

of holding three thousand men, which the Saracens frequent


for prayer

it

is

rudely built, raised on boards and great

beams above the remains of


are to be seen there.

ruins.

A few cisterns

for

water

In the neighbourhood of the temple

is

the Pool of Bethsaida,^ like a twin lake, the one being often
'

See page

'

The

2 -p^is drawing is given in Pa.


ii, note 4.
questions connected with the Pool of Bethesda are discussed
at length by Sir Charles Wilson, in Appendix IIL of the translation

of the Bordeaux Pilgrim, pp. 45 ff., where, however, this reference


See also 'City of Jerusalem,' Note, pp. 65 ff.

omitted.

is

CONCERNING THE HOLY PLACES.


filled

with winter showers, while the other

From

with red water.

that face of

eastwards, where the rock

is

is

71

discoloured

Mount Sion which

looks

precipitous, there rushes out

within the walls and in the roots of the

hill, the Fountain of


which flows southwards with an alternating access of

Siloa,

waters, that

not in a perpetual flow, but boiling up at

is,

certain hours

and days, and coming through the hollows of

the earth and the caves of hardest rock with a great noise.

In the higher part of

monks surround

Mount

many

Sion,

cells

of

p. 20.

a large church, built, as they affirm, by the

Apostles on the spot where they received the Holy

and where

Mary

St.

died

Spirit,

this is also the venerable site

of the Supper of the Lord.

There

is also,

standing

in the

middle of the church, a marble column,- to which the Lord

was bound when

He was

The form

scourged.

of this church

is drawn below.i
shown a rock, above which the sainted p. 20.
proto-martyr Stephen was stoned without the city while in

said to be as

is

There

is

the middle of Jerusalem, on the spot where a dead

man came

to

life

again

when

p. 16, 17-

the Cross of the Lord was

placed on him, stands a lofty column, which throws no

shadow
this

is

at the

summer

solstice,

whence

the middle of the earth, as

it is

thought that

said in history

is

'

But

God, our King, before the ages has wrought salvation in


Influenced by this opinion, Victhje midst of the earth.'
torinus also, one of the chief

men

of the Church of Pettau,^

writing about Golgotha, begins thus


'

There

is

in their

a spot we hold the midst


own tongue the Jews call

the world

of

all

it

Golgotha.'

M., Pc, give a drawing of the church.


This is the only authority for attributing these, or any other,
extant verses to St. Victorinus, Bishop of Pattau, in Upper Pannonia,
1

martyred under Diocletian


iv., p.

128.

(?).

See Smith's

'

Diet, of Christian Biog.,'

THE VENERABLE BEDE

72

The Napkin of the Head of the Lord, and


ANOTHER LARGER LiNEN CLOTH WOVEN BY St. MARY.

IV.

After the Resurrection of the Lord, the napkin

pp. I2-I5-

by a Jew, who
soon after became a true Christian and retained it by him till
his death, and who meanwhile became rich.
When dying,
pp. II, 12, 13. he asks his sons, which of them wished to receive
that had been about His head was stolen

the napkin of the Lord, which to possess the rest of his

The

father's wealth.

until the elder

son comes to poverty

therefore retained

came

it

wealth

straightway the former decreases


while with faith his

wealth increases, and his faithful descendants,

brother's

wards

elder chose the earthly treasure, the

And

younger the napkin.

it

it

even to the

generation.

fifth

After-

into the possession of impious persons,

so greatly increased

that

whose

occasioned great

it

quarrels for a long time; the Christian Jews claiming to

be the heirs of Christ, while unbelieving Jews claimed to

be the heirs of their fathers


Mauvias.i the

until, after

King of the Saracens

called on to act as judge.

to Christ to judge

in

long contention,

our

Lighting a great

who was worthy

own

time,

fire,

was

he prays

to possess this napkin

He had deigned to wear about His head for their


salvation.
He then cast it into the fire, when it was
which

snatched suddenly and flew upwards, and remained for


a very long time at a great height, flying in the air as
play,
sides,

and
it

at last, while all

were gazing on

descended lightly and deposited

it

itself in

if

at

from both
the

bosom

of one of the Christians, being saluted and kissed immediately

by the whole people with the greatest reverence. It


is eight feet in length.
Another linen cloth of

p. i6.

'

note

In other MSS.,
I,

'

Majuuias,'

'

Mauuras,'

'

Moawieh.'

See

p.

14,

CONCERNING THE HOLY PLACES.


much

larger size,

to have been

is

venerated in the church, which

woven by

St.

said

is

Mary, having the likenesses of

the twelve Apostles and of the Lord Himself, one side

being red and the other green.

The Places round Jerusalem, the Valley of

V.

JosAPHAT, HIS Sepulchre and those of others,


THE Church in which St. Mary was buried.

Round Jerusalem
mountainous. Hence
ground

is

ground

the

is

rough and

p. 22.

to the north, as far as Arimathia, the

rocky and rough, though not quite continuously,

while thorny valleys

lie

towards the Tanitic region

while

towards Cesarea of Palestine from MWa., although some


narrow, small, rough spots
part, the

ground

is

are found, yet, for the

most

a level plain, with olive groves scattered

These places are seventy-five miles distant from


while the length of the Land of Promise from
other,
each
Dan to Bersabee extends over 160 miles, from Joppa to
over

it.

Bethlehem being forty-six

Next

the wall of the

the east

is

miles.

Temple

or of Jerusalem on

p.

.22.

Gehennon, or the Valley of Josaphat, stretching

from north to south, through which the torrent of Cedron runs,


This valley
at least when it receives water from the rains.
is

a small plain, watered, and wooded, and

and once had

in

it

a grove^ sacred to Baal.

full

of delights,

In this

p. is.

his sepulchre; on
is the Tower of King Josaphat, containing
out of the rock of
its right hand is a separate building hewn

Mount

Olivet, containing

two rock-hewn sepulchres, being

those of the aged Simeon and of Joseph, the spouse of St.


17Mary. In this same valley is the round Church of p.
St.

two by a stone vaulting, having four


altar to
the upper part, and in the lower portion one

Mary, divided

altars in

in

Others,

'

and

spot.'

THE VENERABLE BEDE

74

the east, and on

Mary

is

its

right

hand an empty tomb, in which St.


some time but by whom,"

said to have rested for

and when, the body was taken away

who

unknown.

is

Those

enter this see on the right, inserted in the wall, the

He

rock on which the Lord prayed on the night in which

was betrayed, the marks of His knees being impressed


in soft

as

if

wax.

The place where Judas was hanged, and

VI.

ACHELDEMAC.
Those going out by the Gate of David

p. ig.

find a

bridge^ stretching southwards across the valley, at the middle

of which, on the west side, Judas

For here stands a

himself

is

said to have

very great age, alluding to which Juvencus says


'

From

fig-tree top

Further on

p. =1.

is

hanged

great size and of

fig tree of

he snatched a shapeless death.'

Acheldemac, on the south of Mount

Sion, where strangers^ and other persons of no note are

still

buried, while others putrefy there unburied.

Vn.

The Mount of Olivet, and the. Church


BUILT THERE, WHERE THE LORD ASCENDED INTO
THE Heavens THE Tomb of Lazarus, and a
THIRD Church.
The Mount

pp. 21, 22.

in length
olives,

is

is

a mile distant from

equal to

the ground

fertile in

of Olives, which

Mount Sion in height, but excels, it


and breadth. With the exception of vines and

Jerusalem,

is

almost destitute of

trees,

corn and barley, and the quality of the

but

it

is

soil is suit-

able for grass and flowers, not for trees.

On its summit,
where the Lord ascended to heaven, is a round church
of large size, having in its circuit three vaulted porticoes
1

Others,

'

fountain.'

Or

'

pilgrims'

see p. 2i, note

2.

CONCERNING THE HOLY PLACES.


For the

covered over above.

interior of the

75

house

22-24.

pp.

could not be vaulted over or covered, on account of the

passage (Ascension) of the Lord's body from that spot


has an altar towards the
in the centre of

east,

lies

if

protected by a narrow roof;

He

And

ascended.

although

away by the believing, they none


same appearance of their
marked by impressed footsteps. Around these

is

daily carried

the less remain and

own, as

it

are seen the last footprints of the Lord,

it

under the open heaven, where


the earth

retain the

still

a hollow brass cylinder as high as one's neck,i with an

entrance from the west, while

lamp

great

is

hung above

it

In the western

by pulleys, burning the whole night and day.


side of that church are eight windows and the same number
of lamps hung by ropes opposite to them their light is shed
through the glass as far as Jerusalem, and is said to smite
;

the hearts of the beholders with a certain eagerness and


On the day of the Ascension of the Lord

compunction.

each year, after Mass

performed, a storm of strong wind

is

comes down regularly and lays prostrate on the ground all


On that night so many lamps are
that are in the church.
lighted there, that the mountain and the places at its foot
appear not only to be illuminated but even to be on fire.

We

have thought

it

right to give a

drawing of

this

church

below.^

The Tomb

of Lazarus

is

pointed out by a church >?

26, 27.

and by a large monastery, in a certain plain


Now
-of Bethany, surrounded by a great wood of olives.
There
Bethany is fifteen furlongs distant from Jerusalem.
built there,

is

same mountain, towards the


Bethany, where the Lord spoke to His

also a third church on the

southern side of

disciples before the Passion about the

head and

'

Others,

The drawing

'

is

Day

neck,' or only

'

wanting in almost

of Judgment.

head.'
all

MSS.

THE VENERABLE BEDS

76

The Situation of Bethlehem, the Church


UPON the Place where the Lord was born, the
Sepulchres of David and Hieronymus and the
Three Shepherds, and also that of Rachel.

VIII.

Bethlehem, which

pp. 28, 29.

Jerusalem,

on

all

sides

lies six miles^

southwards from

situated on a narrow ridge, which

is

by

valleys,

and

is

is

surrounded

a mile long from west to east,

a low wall without towers being built right round the level

summit.

In the eastern corner of this

half cave, the exterior of which

is

a sort of natural

said to have been the

is

place of the Nativity of the Lord, while the interior

the
is

Manger

of the Lord.

called

is

This cave, the interior of which

wholly covered over with precious marble, has, above the

exact spot where the Lord


p. 29-

large

Church of

close to the wall,

still

of the Lord was

St.

is

said to have been born, the

Mary.

rock, hollowed out

preserves the water in which the

first

thrown from the wall

washed, which
;

and

this

it

water,

caught as
if

it

exhausted either by accident or intentionally,


restored to

its full

To

p. 30.

extent even while you look at

was

should be
is

always

it.

the north of Bethlehem, in the neighbouring

Sepulchre of David

valley, the

Body

it

is

covered over in the middle

of a church by a low stone, with a lamp placed above


while to the south, in a neighbouring valley, there

church the Sepulchre of

in

In this

have

given

Jerusalem.
p. 31-

is,

Hieronymus.

in a

by Arculf, a Bishop of the


But Esdras writes clearly, that David was buried

followed the account


Gauls.

St.

it

is

Farther to the east in the

of the flock, a mile from the city,

the tombs of the shepherds

Nativity

of.
1

the Lord.

The

real distance

is

Tower

of Ader, that

a church containing

who were informed

of the

royal road leads from ^Elia to


is five

English miles.

CONCERNING THE HOLY PLACES.


Chebron, leaving Bethlehem to the
the Sepulchre of Rachel,

still

77

and to the west

east,

signed with the inscription

of her name.

IX.

The Situation of Hebron, Mambre, and the


Tomb of the Patriarchs and of Adam, the
Pine Wood.

Hebron

along a plain, twenty-two

situated

is

miles from .^lia.

furlong to the east,

it

pp. 32. 33-

has a double

cave in a valley, where the Sepulchres of the Patriarchs are

surrounded by a rectangular

heads turned to the

them covered with one stone hewn

north, each of

Basilica, the stone

darker and of

wall, their

in the case of

being white

commoner workmanship

like a

the Patriarchs,

Adam's, who

in

lies

not far from them towards the north end of that wall.

Poorer and smaller monuments of their three wives are also


seen.
The hill of Mambre, a mile to the north of p. 33these tombs,
at

very grassy and flowery, having a level plain

is

the summit,

in the

northern part of which

is

the oak of

Abraham, surrounded by a church, its trunk being the height


of two men. Those coming from Hebron north- p.34.
wards, have on their left hand a mountain of small extent
covered with pines, three miles from Hebron, whence pine

wood

is

carts or

carried to Jerusalem on camels

waggons are

for in all

Judea

rare.

Places, Galgal and- the


Fountain of Heliseus, the Great Plain.

X. Jericho and
Jericho

is

its

Holy

nineteen^ miles to the east of ^lia, and


levelled to the

p. 35-

ground three times, only the

it has been
house of Raab remains, as a sign of her faith for its walls
The site of the
are still standing, though without a roof.
the Jordan,
it
and
Between
vines.
and
city produces corn

as

'

O.,

Pc, have

'

14,000 feet

;'

Pa.,

'

18 miles.'

THE VENERABLE BEDE

78

which

with open

spaces

to be taken

from the Jordan

just within the walls

now

there are great palm

it,

which are inhabited by

left,

The twelve

Chananeans.

p- 36-

miles from

five or six

is

groves,

stones which Josua ordered

lie in

a church at Galgal built

they are so large that one of them can

by two men while one of them has


been broken by some unknown accident, but has been joined
scarcely be lifted

together again by an iron band. Close to Jerichxj

is

a copious

fountain of drinking-water, good for irrigating purposes,

which was once

sterile

and unhealthy

healed by Heliseus the prophet,

surrounded by a plain seventy furlongs

is

twenty

varieties of palmsi

it.

It

and

in length,

and most excellent breeds

There the opobalsamum

of bees.

name

salt into

breadth, in which are marvellously fair gardens,

in

many

with

was

for drinking, but

when he cast

is

produced, which

we

thus with an affix because the husbandmen, with

sharp stones, cut slender channels through the bark, in

which the balsam


distilling slowly

bedewed

fully

so

that

the sap, after

tears

and a cavern

is

called in

in beauti-

Greek

oV??,

Here, they say, the cyprus and the myrobalanus^

Ope.
1

generated,

is

through those caverns, collects

Apples,' Pb.

'

2 It is

impossible to identify exactly the trees referred

to.

(i)

The

name Opobalsamum,
is

given to the sap extracted from the Balsam tree,


not derived from ottij, a hole, but from oTrog, juice, the milky juice

flowing from a plant, either naturally or by incision.

word

The Hebrew

derived from the root, meaning 'fissure^


referring to the practice of drawing it from the tree in this way.
But

balsam,

for the

much

tsori, is

the real Balsam tree,

and whether the tree


was obtained was also the Balsam
tree of Jericho.
(2) The Cyprus tree (the camphire of Cant. i. 14,
iv. 13) probably derives its name from the Hebrew Kaphar, to cover
ox paint.
It is the Arabic Henna, a red stain much used for the nails
it is

from

being

disputed what

vi-hich

the

made from

Myrobalanus

may be

the

is

Balm

its

is

of Gilead

Lawsonia Inermis. (3) The


it or the Balsam tree
variously named Elceagnus angustifolia and

dry leaves.

It is

variously identified.

Zackum

tree,

Balanites ^gyptiaca, the

oil

the

Either

obtained from which

is

highly esteemed

CONCERNING THE HOLY


The

grow.

more
is

some other

water, as in

especially,

is

PLACETS.

79

fountains, but here

cold in summer, tepid in winter

the air

milder, so that in the depth of winter linen clothing

worn.

The

city itself

built in a plain,

is

by an extensive mountain, bare


the

of the country

soil

inhabitants.

is

barren,

and

is

of anything fruitful

and therefore

is

overhung

it is

for

without

wide extent of country stretches from

the district of the city of Scythopolis to that of


the Asphaltic region.

Opposite

this,

Sodom and

a mountain extends

above the Jordan, from the city of Julias to Zoar,^ which


conterminous with Arabia Petrsea, where there is a
mountain called Ferreus. Between these two mountains
stretches a plain, which the ancients called the Great,' or

is

'

Hebrew,

in

'

Aulon,' 230 furlongs in length, 120 in breadth,

extending from the village of Gennabara to the Asphaltic


Lake. The Jordan intersects it, with banks verdant from
the watering of the river, the trees upon

much more
barren

fruitful

for all the land

its

beyond the bank of the

The Jordan and the Sea of

XI.

river

is

dry.

Galilee.

commonly supposed to rise in the pp. 39. 40.


Phenicia, at the roots of Mount Lebanon, where

The Jordan
province of

banks being

than elsewhere, where they are more

is

Cesarea Philippi,

Paneum, that

is,

we

Paneum, that

learn that

is,

'

is

situated.

For

this reason

the grotto,' through which the

was constructed and adorned with admirable


Agrippa. There is, however, in the district
King
by
beauty
of Trachonitis a fountain resembling a disc,^ whence it has

Jordan

flows,

received the

name of

Phiala

it is

fifteen miles

from Caesarea,

by the Arabs as a cure for wounds. It grows near Jericho. This may
not improbably be the Myrobalanus, while the Balsam tree may be
the Cistus Creticus.Ahhot Daniel, p. 8, note 4.
1

See

'

p. 39,

Rota.'

rota.' C.

'

note

The

W. W.

i.

reference

is

apparently to the sun's disc, often called

8o

THE VENERABLE BEDE

and

so constantly

is

never diminishes.

full

of water, that

never overflows and

Into this Philip, the tetrarch of the region,

up

cast straws, which the river cast

in Phiala,

is

begins to be visible as a river


intersects

its

marshes

miles without
Julias

Paneum, where

it
it

directs

it

is

account

Dead

many

Now

breadth

in

since

it

because

places,

Sea, and there loses

Genezar, that

the water

it

is

all

sides

is

marsh mud or turbid,


by a sandy shore. It

on

the east

and Hippo, on the west by Tiberias, which

is

by

healthy

the kinds of fish are better as regards

its

taste

and appearance than

hot waters

Dead

sweet and good for drinking,

is

surrounded on

from

any other

in

lake.

The Dead

Sea, and its Nature, and that of


THE Neighbouring District.

XII.

The Dead Sea extends

p. 39-

Zoar of Arabia, 150

Sodom

for

it is

in

580^ furlongs in length to

breadth to the neighbourhood of

most certain that

after the

and Gomorrha and the neighbouring


what were once wells of
p. 41-

ing towards

p. 38.

Mount

it

Olivet

It is

salt.

from

afar,

'

Twelve,' Pc.

burning of Sodom

cities, it

flowed in from

seen also by those look-

from the watch-tower of

because the colliding movement of

the waves casts out the most salt


1

famous

its

140 furlongs in length,

receives nothing thick with


it is

Lake

enters the

the Sea of Galilee,

is,

surrounded also by agreeable towns,

Julias

it

white colour, like milk, and on this

surrounded by great woods

40

city called

recognised for a long distance in the

is

Sea.

pp. 40. 41.

the

It is of a

.waters.

p. 38-

course for fifteen^

flows through the middle of the

it

of Genezar, whence, after passing


Asphaltic, that

its

any addition, to the

receiving

afterwards

thence

it

but that

soon entering the lake,

flows through subterranean channels to

it

Whence

Paneum.

in

follows that the source of the Jordan

is

it

'

salt,

which

is

dried

Five hundred and

eight,'

by the
Ph.

CONCERNING THE HOLY PLACES.


sun,

and used by many nations.

is

further said to be

a mountain of Sicily, where stones turned out of the

salt, in

ground supply a true


is

There

8i

known as Earth

salt,

Salt.

most useful

The Sea

is

for all purposes,

called

which

'Dead because
'

it

does not contain any kind of living creatures, whether

fish

or such birds as are

and

camels

met with beside water, while

bulls

on it.^ Finally, if the Jordan has been swollen


and has carried down fishes in its flood, they
die immediately and float above the oily waters.
They say

by

float

rain

lamp

that a lighted

floats

above

it

unchanged,"^ and does not

sink so as to put out the light, while

if

a vessel has been

submerged by any device it can scarcely be caused to


remain in the depths, and all living creatures even if
submerged and vehemently beaten down, at once rise to the
surface

while finally, they say that Vespasian ordered

men

not swim, to have their hands bound and then

who could

thrown into the deep, and they floated above


The water is barren' and bitter, and darker than

be

to
it.

other waters, and produces a sort of parched feeling.


certain that lumps of bitumen

float in

water, which they collect in boats.

adhere to them so that


tools, yielding

it

body.

The

The bitumen

cannot be cut

district

still

is

and

for healing the

apples grow there, which excite

among

for

said to

even by iron

retains the appearance

(of the Cities of the Plain)

punishment

oft"

only to menstruous blood or urine.

useful for caulking joints in ships

It is

a black liquid on the

It

is

human
of the

very beautiful

spectators a desire

to eat them, but when plucked, they burst and are reduced
to ashes, and give rise to smoke as if they were still burning.
1

Also

in

Pb. reads,

'

summer an immoderate amount

while bitumen floats on

it

of vapour

resembling gold and a camel

in appearance.'

reads, ' unchanged, so that the light can neither be


because if a vessel,' etc.
submerged,
sprinkled nor be
* Probably
unprofitable,' useless for drinking.
2

The same MS.


'

THE VENERABLE BEDS

82

steams up over the plains, while the unhealthy drought and


the dryness of the

corrupt the air and destroy

soil unite to

the inhabitants with deplorable diseases.

The Place where the Lord was

XIII.

At

pp. 36-38.

the place where the Lord was baptized, a

cross stands, as high as one's neck, which

by the

Baptized.

rising of the water

as far distant from

it

is

wooden

often hidden

the further or eastern

bank

is

as one can sling a stone, while the

nearer bank has on the top of a

the great monastery of

hill

the Blessed John Baptist, the church of which

celebrated,

is

from which people are wont to pass down to that cross

by a bridge
of the river

At

on arches, and pray.

raised
is

the edge

a square church built on four stone vaults,

covered over above with slacked lime,^ where the garments

worn by the Lord when He was baptized, are said to be


This, men do not usually enter, but the^ waves
preserved.
surround and penetrate it. From the point where the
Jordan issues from the ravine of the Sea of Galilee to that
where

it

enters the

Dead

Sea,

is

eight^ days' journey.

The Locusts and the Wild Honey, and the

XIV.

Fountain of John the Baptist.


p. 43-

locust,

There seems

to

have been a very small kind of

which John the Baptist fed upon, and which

found, with a thin short

body

like the finger of a

easily taken in the grass,

is

poor,

when cooked

in

oil.

and

is

is still

hand, which

used for food by the

In the same desert there are trees

with broad round leaves of the colour of milk and the


taste of honey,

hands

the
1
^

which being naturally

and eaten.

This

See p. 38, note i.


But on all sides they surround,'
'

3
'

Fifteen,' Ffi.

is

Pc;

'

fragile, are

what

is

rubbed

called

'

in

wild

enter or descend thence,' O.

CONCERNING THE HOLY PLACES.


honey.'

In

Baptist

is

the same place

the fountain

shown, the water being clear

John
protected by
of St.

it is

83

a stone covering besmeared with lime.

XV.

The Fountain

Near the
Neapolis,

is

of Jacob near Sichem.

Sichem, which

city of

form of a cross,

in the middle^ of

now

is

a four-armed church, that

is,

which

is

called

one

pp. 41. 4=

built in the

the Fountain of

Jacob, forty cubits in height, which the Lord honoured by


asking water from it from the woman of Samaria.

and Capharnaum and Nazareth


AND THE Holy Places there.

Tiberias

XVI.

The

place where the Lord blessed the bread and

the fish

is

p. 43-

on this side of the Sea of Galilee, to the north of

the city of Tiberias

a grassy level plain which has never

since l^een ploughed, and which has no buildings on it,


showing only a fountain from which they drank. Those

who come from ^lia

to

Capharnaum pass through

p. 44-

Tiberias, and thence along the Sea of Galilee and the place
where the bread was blessed not far from which is Capharnaum, on the borders of Zabulon and Nephthalim, having no
and
wall, situated in a narrow space between the mountain
:

the lake above the sea shore, extending for a long distance
eastwards, having the mountain on the north, and the lake

on the south. Nazareth has no walls, but great p. 4sbuildings and two large churches. One in the middle of the
there was the
city is founded on two vaults, where once
His infancyin
nourished
was
Lord
the
which
house in
with
mounds,
on
two
raised
This church, as has been said, is
arches interposed, having
^

down below among

Tobler omits as unintelligible


See p. 42-

of the fingers.'

'

these

mounds

stretching from the side to the end

63

THE VENERABLE BEDS


a very clear fountain, from which

all

draw

the citizens

water in vessels by means of pulleys.

There

their

another

is

came

church, where the house was in which the angel

to

Mary.

Mount Tabor and the Three Churches

XVII.

ON
Mount Tabor, in

p. 46-

rises

up to the north

Sea of Genezareth

the middle of the plain of Galilee,

completely round, very grassy and

flowery, 30 furlongs in height.

Its

summit forms a very

pleasant level surface of 23^ furlongs, where

monastery surrounded by a large wood,


churches, according to what Peter said,
three tabernacles.'

from the

at a^ distance of three miles

it is

IT.

The

place

is

'

a large

is

having

three

Let us make here

surrounded by a

wall,

and

has great buildings.

XVIII.

Damascus

p. 47-

ample

The Situation of Damascus.


is

circuit of walls,

situated in a wide plain, with an

and

is

by frequent towers
While the Christians

fortified

four great rivers flow through

it.

frequent the Church of St. John Baptist, the king of the

Saracens with his people has built and consecrated another.


There are a very large number of olive groves round the
city outside the walls.

From Tabor

to

Damascus

is

seven

days' journey.

XIX. The Situation of Alexandria, the Church


IN WHICH Mark the Evangelist rests, and the
Nile.

Alexandria is a long city from west to east,


surrounded on the south by the mouths of the Nile, on the
pp. 48-51-

'

Several

MSS. here mention

the tribe of Manasseh.

'

24,' pi,_

CONCERNING THE HOLY PLACES.

85

north by the Egyptian Sea/ having a harbour more

than others,
at the

in

form Hke the human body

head and the roads, but narrower

and

receives the sea

ships in

difficult

more capacious

in the straits,

where

it

movement, by which some aids

to breathing are given to the port.

When

one has escaped

the narrows and the mouths of the harbour, a stretch of sea

spreads out far and wide like the rest of the

On

the right side of the port

stands Pharus, that

is

human

form.

a small island, on which

a very large tower, which burns

is,

during the night with the flames of torches,

lest

sailors

fall upon rocks, or


boundary of the entrance, because it
But the
is always unquiet, with waves always breaking.
harbour is always calm it is thirty furlongs in extent.
Those entering the city from the Egyptian side pp- si, s^are met on the right hand by a Church, in which rests the

should be deceived in the darkness and


fail

to recognise the

blessed

His body

Evangelist Mark.

is

buried

in

the

eastern end of that church before the altar, a square marble

monument being placed above the spot.


Around the Nile the Egyptians are in

the habit

p- s^-

making frequent ramparts on account of the irruption of


the waters, which, should they be broken by the careless-

of

ness of the guardians, instead of irrigating, ruin the underAnd because the Egyptians inhabit the
lying ground.

they build their houses upon the banks of the


waters, supporting them on transverse beams.

plains,

XX. Constantinople, and the

Basilica in that

City which contains the Cross of the Lord.


surrounded on all sides except p- 53miles from it
the north by the Great Sea, extending sixty
the wall of the
to the wall of the city, and forty miles from
by
surrounded
is
it
city to the mouths of the Danube
Constantinople

is

Most MSS.,

'

By

the Mareotic Lake.'

THE VENERABLE BEDE


a circuit of walls twelve miles in length, with angles corre-

At

spending to the sea-board.

p. 54-

had fixed

to build

Europe

but

Constantine

first

by the sea which separates Asia

it^

one night

all

the tools were taken

firom

away,

for them,

and they were found by those sent to look

on

the European side, where the city

now

understood to be God's

should be built there.

In this city

pp. 55-57-

will that

it

is

for

a church of marvellous

is

ship, called St. Sophia, constructed

was thus

it

workman-

from the foundation on

a round plan and vaulted, surrounded by three walls, and

supported by great columns and raised on arches, the

which has

terior of

in its northern

ingly beautiful ambry, in which

is

in-

end a large and exceeda

wooden

chest covered

with a wooden covering, which contains three parts of the


Cross of the Lord,

viz.,

the long

beam

cut into two parts

and the cross beam of that Holy Cross. This is brought


out to be adored by the people on only three days of the
year, that

Day

is,

on [the day

of] the

Supper of the Lord, on the

and on [the day of] the Holy Sabbath,^


chest is laid opened on the golden altar (it is

of Preparation

when the

first

in height and one in breadth) with the Holy


The Emperor first approaches and adores and
the Holy Cross, then all ranks of the laity in order

two cubits
Cross.
kisses

on the next day the Empress and


virgins

and

all

chest

is

ambry.

do the same

all

the matrons and

while on the third day the Bishops

ranks of the clergy do the same

and so the

again closed and carried back to the above-named

But as long

as

it

remains open upon the

a marvellous odour pervades the whole church

the knots of the holy


oil,

of which

all his

sickness.

liquid like
it

heals
1

'

In Cilicia

That

'

in

is

if

for

from

there flows a sweet-smelling

any sick person touch a

particle,

some MSS.

on
Saturday before Easter.
^

wood

altar,

to say,

Maundy Thursday, Good

Friday, and the

CONCERNING THE HOLY PLACES.

XXI.

87

Epilogue.

In this account of the holy places,

have, as far as

could, followed trustworthy histories, and especially that of


Arculf, a Bishop of Gaul, which the presbyter

one most learned

books

in

in

the Scriptures, has written in three

the Latin language.

tioned, leaving his

Adamnan,

own

The

prelate

have men-

country, from his desire after the

holy places, went to the land of promise, and there stayed


some months in Jerusalem, using an aged monk, Peter

and as interpreter, and visited


in his course all the places he had so vividly longed to see,
not to speak of Alexandria, Damascus, Constantinople, and
But when he wished to revisit his native country,
Sicily.
the ship in which he sailed was, after many wanderings,
brought by a contrary wind to our island of Britain, and

by name, equally

as guide

many dangers he came


man of whom we have spoken, Adamnan,
at length after

to the venerable
to

whom

he gave

an account of his journey and of what he saw, and whom


he thus taught to become the writer of a most excellent
history.

From

this

we have

culled

some

parts

and com-

pared them with the books of the ancients, and we transmit


them to thee to read, entreating through all that thou be

temper the labour of the present age, not by the


ease of a lascivious body, but by zeal in reading and in

careful to

prayer.

APPENDIX.
TRANSLATION OF PORTIONS OF ARCULF'S NARRATIVE,'
FROM PROFESSOR WILLIS' 'HOLY SEPULCHRE.'
'

[IVi'/hams' 'Holy City,' vol. it.: London, 1849.]

Of THE Church of the Sepulchre of the Lord.


(Pages

Concerning

'

5,

cap.

i.,

last sentence,

these things

we

and

cap.

ii.)

diligently interrogated the

holy Arculfus, and especially about the Sepulchre of the


Lord, and the church constructed above
delineated the form for
great church,
sides, arising

passage

all

from

between

me upon

of stone, of
its

of which he

This

tablet.

wondrous rotundity on

foundation

in three walls,

and

each wall

it,

waxen

the

all

has a broad

next.

In

three

ingeniously constructed places of the middle wall three


altars are disposed,

one looking to the south, another to

the north, and the third towards the west

and

lofty

church

is

sustained

wondrous magnitude, and

it

south-east,
City,'

ii.

by twelve

this

round

columns

of

in the

intermediate spaces

these, four are turned to the

and the other four

to the north-east.'

'

Holy

259.

(Pages
'

Of

and

has eight doors or entrances

formed by three walls erected


between the passages.

6-9,

capp.

iii.,

iv.)

In the centre of this circular church

is

situated a round

cabin {teguriimi), cut out of a single piece of rock, within

APPENDIX.
which there

is

vaulted roof
of a

man

is

men

The

and pray.

to stand

about a foot and ahalf above the head

of no short stature.

chamber
is

space for nine

to the east.

is

The entrance of this little


The whole of its exterior surface

covered with choice marble, and the highest part of

its

outer roof, ornamented with gold, sustains a golden cross


of no small magnitude.

The Sepulchre

the north part of the chamber, and

rock as

is

of the Lord

cut out of the

but the pavement of the chamber

it,

the place of sepulture

for there

is

is

is

in

same

lower than

an altitude of about

three palms from the pavement to the lateral edge of the

... By the Sepulchre, properly so called, is


meant that place in the north part of the monumental
chamber, in which the body, wrapped in linen clothes, was

sepulchre.

deposited, the length of which Arculfus measured with his

own hand

as seven feet.

Which

sepulchre

is

not, as

some

erroneously imagine, hollowed out into a double form

shape of the body), having a projection

in the

solid rock,
is

between and separating the legs and

simple and plain from the head to the

couch affording room

manner of a

in the

left

for

one

man

cave, having

its

thighs, but

feet,

and

lying on his back.

opening

at the side,

opposite the south part of the monumental chamber.

low roof

is artificially

wrought above

it.

{i.e.,

from the

is

It is

and

The

In this sepulchre

twelve lamps, according to the number of the twelve holy


Apostles, burn day and night continually, of which four are

placed below in the inner part of that sepulchral couch,


and the other eight above, over the margin on the right
side.

This chamber of the Lord's monument, not

being covered within by any ornaments, exhibits to this


day the marks of the workmen's tools by which it was

The

excavated.
sepulchre

'Holy

is

colour of the rock of the

monument and

not uniform, but a mixture of red and white.'

City,'

ii.

1/4, I7S-

APPENDIX.

90

Of THE Church of
(Page
'

The quadrangular church

the Lord,

is

of

v.)

Holy Mary, the Mother of

joined on the right side to that round church

described above, and which


rection,

cap.

9,

Mary.

St.

because

it is

is

called Anastasis, or Resur-

constructed on the place of the Lord's

resurrection.'

Of the Church of Calvary.


(Pages

9, 10,

cap.

vi.)

'Another church, of great magnitude,


towards the east in that place which
In

its

rota

is

is

constructed

called Golgotha.

upper parts there hangs by ropes a certain brazen

with lamps, beneath which

great

silver

cross

is

same place where formerly the wooden


on which the Saviour of mankind suffered, was fixed

infixed in the very


cros.s,

and stood.
'

In the same church there

is

a cave cut out of the rock

beneath the place of the Lord's

cross, where the sacrifice


upon an altar for the souls of certain honoured
persons, whose bodies, meanwhile, lying in the street, are
is

offered

placed before the door of the said Golgothan Church, until


the holy mysteries for the defunct are finished,

Of the

Basilica of Constantine.

(Pages
'

To

lo,

n, capp.

this church, constructed

vii., viii.)

upon a quadrangular plan

in

the place of Calvary, there adjoins on the eastern side that

neighbouring stone

basilica, erected

by the royal Constantine,


was located, as they say,

with great magnificence

Martyrium, which
where the cross of

called also the


in .the place

our Lord, with the other two crosses of the thieves, con-

APPENDIX.

91

cealed under the earth, was found by the gift of the Lord,

two hundred and thirty-three years. Between these


two churches occurs that famous place where Abraham the
after

Patriarch erected an altar for the sacrifice of Isaac


where now there stands a small wooden table upon which
.

people offer alms for the poor.


tasis,'

that

is,

Between the Anasthe above-described church, and the Basilica

of Constantine

is

'

a small court, extending as far as the

Golgothan Church,
stantly burning

in

which court lamps are kept con-

day and

night.'

Of the other Exedra


(Pages

in

the Church of Calvary.

II, 12, cap. ix.)

'Between the Golgothan Church and the Martyrium


is

a certain " Exedra," or apse, in which

is

the cup.

This

Arculfus goes on to describe as the cup of the Last Supper,'

and also to

'Holy

state that he

City,'

ii,,

saw the sponge and the


'

'

259-261.

the end.

BILLING

AND

SONS, PRINTERS, GUILDFORD.

'

lance.'

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