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Tuning Guide *For Drifting Competitions*
Last post 09-21-2013, 4:49 PM by SCS Wanted. 268 replies.

10-12-2011, 6:09 PM

4869639

Tuning Guide *For Drifting Competitions*

Joined on 08-10-2009
Michigan
Forza Community VIP

It appears that the tuning in Forza 4 are the same as Forza 3, so no changes are
needed.

Before I begin, I would like to give a MASSIVE amount of credit to Goolybooly for
helping me with every aspect of the revision of the tuning guide. Couldn't have done it
without him. Together, he and I broke down every section of the original tuning guide
and changed, edited, and added bits of info.
Tuning Guide for Drifting

Ive noticed a lot of people that are new to drifting asking for help on how to tune. Well
this thread will help you out on how to generally tune your car for drifting. If anyone
has a suggestion, i will add it to this post.
Car
Generally, any Rear Wheel Drive (RWD) car is capable of drifting. try to avoid
Mid-Engine and Rear-Engine cars as the weight distribution will be more towards the
rear and it will tend to make the car more grippy. Im not saying that Mid-Engines and
Rear-Engines cant drift. If you tune them correctly, they can be very effective. (I recall
that TGF KillaCali has a Porsche that drifts very well). Keep in mind that some cars can
be converted to RWD after purchasing them.
Upgrades
Platform and Handling- Most people prefer all Race Platform and Handling, but the
Weight Reduction, Roll Cage, and Anti-Roll Bars are not required. I would suggest Race
everything.
Drivetrain- If you have the credits, I suggest purchasing Race everything because it
helps out a lot. Although, Race parts aren't necesary. They basically just shorten shift
time which is essential when trying to upshift mid-drift.
Wheels- Try to avoid using Racing Slicks (they are not allowed in competitions). Stick
with Stock or Street tire compound. Tire Width- This is personal preference. I personally
upgrade the Rear all the way and leave the Front stock so that i get more grip on the
rear for speed, but others prefer to have the Front wider than the Rear. Play with it and
see what you like. Rims and Rim size are optional, but i recommend Leaving the size
stock and picking a pair of lightweight rims.
Aspiration-You have the choice of a Single turbo, Twin Turbo, Twin-Screw
Supercharger, and a Centrifugal Supercharger. Most people stick with a single turbo,
but you may experience something called Turbo Lag. What is Turbo Lag? While
drifting, the turbo takes a few seconds to spool up. When it finally spools up, it lets out
a boost of speed. Sometimes the boost of speed can catch you off guard and may

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cause you to spin out. Some people avoid using turbos for this reason, but if you get
used to the Turbo Lag, then you can use it to your advantage. i.e. coming out of
corners, you can gain a lot of speed from turbo lag.
Performance- The only required part is the flywheel. I recommend using a Sport
Flywheel instead of a Race Flywheel. All other parts are optional, but be civil with the
horsepower. Most cars can drift with around 400hp. anything over 650hp is not allowed
in competitions (this is subject to change).
KEEP IT S CLASS OR LESS! R class cars are not allowed in competition.

________________________________________________________________________________
Tuning
Tire Pressure
Tire pressure is measured in PSI. The more PSI you have, less of your tire will be
touching the pavement which causes it to lose traction and vice versa. The general
accepted theory is that 32PSI gives you the optimum balance between grip (Low
pressure) and response (High pressure).
One of the key misconceptions about drifting is that you don't want grip at the rear.
You actually want lots of it. Grip=good in drifting. Grip means you can pull back from
bigger angles, you are putting more power down to the ground so you can get more
speed, and you have more control over your car which is essential when tandeming;
you want to be able to slow your car down when necessary if you are following
someone, and if you don't have much grip then that's not easy.
Rear Tires
So, if 32PSI is the optimum PSI, then you want your tires to hit 32PSI when you are
drifting. While drifting, your tires heat up causing the air inside them to expand, so you
want your tires to hit 32PSI at max tempurature. While your tires are hot, check your
PSI by viewing telemetry and tune your PSI accordingly. 25PSI works nicely on most
cars.
Front Tires
Your front tires also heat up while drifting, but not as darastically as the rear because
they aren't spinning at 130+ mph. Use the same technique for the Front tires. Drift a
couple laps and then check your PSI and change it until it reaches 32PSI while hot.
28PSI is found to be ideal for this, but I suggest that you experiment yourself.
Width
Most drifters run max rear tire width because it allows you to get more grip. Front tires
are preference; Skinny tires allow you to turn-in quicker, while wide tires allow you to
track around the corner better. Experiment and find what you like

_________________________________________________________________________________
Camber/Caster/Toe:

Camber
Always keep your Front and Rear Camber NEGATIVE. While drifting, your lead tire
sometimes goes into positive camber which is ok, but it is illegal to tune your Camber
positively. The more Negative Camber you apply to your car, the more the tops of the
tires will angle toward each other.
Diagrams for camber Below (view from the front of the car)
0 Camber

|_|-------------|_| <--- those are the tires. lol

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Negative Camber

/_/--------------\_\ <---- Sexy

Positive Camber

\_\--------------/_/ <---- Not sexy

(Special thanks to Gr4phic for the Camber diagrams)

Camber allows you to control how much, and what part, of your tire contacts the
pavement while drifting. Caster also helps you achieve this when mixed with Camber.
---------The Kuratchi Option: Recently my friend ADA Kuratchi messaged me and
reccomended i try out a setup that he learned from a real life drifter in his area. This is
what he told me.

Cars typically use around 2-3 degrees of negative camber in the front. Rear is up to
driver. So this would be -2 to -3 in forza.
For caster he said you want to use the max amount of caster you can get. So that
would be 7 caster on the game.
And for toe. He said competition cars use no toe in the front and around -.5 to -1
degrees of toe in the rear.

I tried it out on SIM steering with the wheel. I have to say, this works really good. So
that tells me they got the physics right.-----------

Front Caster
Front caster is how far the top of your shock is pointing toward the front of your car

More diagrams (your car is pointing -->)

1 caster

| <-shock
O <- wheel (terrible diagram)

7 caster

\ <- shock
O <- wheel

Sorry for my lack of Diagram-Making Skills

Caster effects how the camber changes from lock to lock. If you have 7 degrees of
Caster, your leading wheel (the one on the outside of your drift) will gain excessive
amounts of pocitive camber. The trailing wheel (inside wheel) will gain a lot of Negative
camber. 7 Caster has the same effect as the front end of a Harley Davidson. When you
turn, the wheels "slant" in either direction. Caster and Camber go hand in hand and
must be tuned together.

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see how the front tire "slants" because of the angle of caster.
There are two ways to tune caster and camber. It's ideal to keep the Lead tire as close
to 0 camber as possible while drifting, but some prefer to tune so that the lead tire
goes into the positives because it makes your car more responsive. Test it out and see
what you like.
For the first method, do this: The front camber should generally be anywhere from -4
to -5. Set your front to -5 and then drift a couple laps on a track. Watch the replay with
telemetry on and toggle over until it shows how much camber you have on your tires.
Watch the camber while you drift. You want it to be as close to 0 without going into the
positives as possible. Adjust the caster or camber until you are hitting 0deg and thats
that. More caster increases the amount of posi camber gained on the lead wheel.
For the second method: Crank up the caster to 7 and turn the front camber down to
between -1 and -3. More/less is preference. More camber generally makes you
smoother as it irons out driver error, but less camber gives you more grip and control
and allows you to go quicker. I'd say start out with more and slowly tone it down.
Personally I use -2.
The rear camber will generally be between -1 and -2. If the Rear is constantly at
around -.5 while drifting, add a little bit more positive camber (around -1.7) and repeat
the process until it stays very close to 0 camber while drifting.
Tuning camber and caster to be perfect is a long process but it's worth it.

Toe
Toe is how close or far apart the fronts of the tires are from each other.
More Diagrams (from the top of your car and the car is pointing up ^)

*0 Front Toe |_|

|_|<- front tires

|_|

|_| <- rear tires

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*Positive Toe \_\

|_|

http://forums.forzamotorsport.net/forums/thread/4869639.aspx

/_/ <- front tires

|_| <-rear tires

*Negative Toe /_/

\_\ <- front tires

|_|

|_| <- rear tires

On your car, you want Positive Toe on the front of your car. The more Positive Toe you
add, the more angle it allows you to achieve while drifting because it's turning the
wheel out more allowing you to get more steering lock. However, too much toe makes
your front end unresponsive and can also slow down your drifts. Start out small (around
.5) and slowly add more until you find the right balance between Angle and
Responsiveness. If you play with a steeringwheel, you'll notice that while you drift,
more toe makes the steeringwheel lock in place better and gives the car a solid, planted
feeling. This is why some people prefer to crank the Toe all the way up to 5.0.
Although, as mentioned earlier, rediculous amounts of Toe makes steering
unresponsive which means turning into a drift is more difficult, forcing you to initiate
with the e-brake more often. Most people find that 2.5 Toe is a good balance.
On the rear, you generally want anywhere from 0 to -.5 Toe. Using even the smallest
amount of toe-in on the back feels very different to using none; what it does is
essentially turn the rear wheels in a bit which just makes the car want to go sideways.
Toe in on the back can help you keep higher angle at the same speed because your
inside rear wheel is pushing the car sideways. Play around with it and see what you
like. Keep in mind that Toe will affect your camber while drifting

_________________________________________________________________________________

Anti-Roll Bars
Here comes the fun part where Math takes place. Heres the formula:
(A-B)C+B=X
Ill break it down for you.
A= the stiffest setting (This will always be 40 if you install Race Anti-Roll Bars)
B= the softest Setting (This will always be 1 if you Install Race Anti-Roll Bars)
C= how much weight is on the front/rear of your vehicle (this can be found by going to
your garage and scrolling over your car and pressing the Y button)
Here is what you would do for Front Anti-Roll Bars:
You take the stiffest setting (40) and subtract the softest setting (1). Then you take
that answer and multiply it by how much weight is on the front of your car. Then you
take that answer and add the softest setting (1).
Example: Lets say you have 52% on the front. You would do...
40-1=39
39 x .52=20.28 (round to 20.3)
20.3+1=21.3
21.3 would be the Front Ant-Roll Bar setting.
For the Rear, you would do the same process, but use 48% instead of 52% because if
52% is on the front, then 48% is on the rear (obviously). So you would do...

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40-1=39
39 x .48=18.72 (round to 18.7)
18.7+1=19.7
19.7 would be the Rear Anti-Roll Bar.
I know it seems like a lot of work, but after a while you will memorize the process. The
purpose of this is so that your car is perfectly balanced.

_________________________________________________________________________________
Springs
To determine the springs, you do the same formula as the anti-roll bars. (A-B)C+B=X
Keep in mind that the softest and stiffest setting will be different on every car.
Lets say the stiffest setting was 1000 and your softest was 100 and you had 52%
weight on the front.
you would do...
1000-100=900
900 x .52=468 (round to the nearest .5)
468+100=568
568 would be the Front Spring setting.
Rear:
1000-100=900
900 x .48=432
432=100=532
532 would be the Rear Spring setting.

_________________________________________________________________________________
Fine tuning your Suspension
Having a perfectly balanced car is not always ideal for someones style of drifting.
Sometimes it's beneficial to slightly unbalance the car to your liking. For instance,
softening the rear allows more weight to transfer to the rear of the car. the more
weight you have in the back, the easier it is to throw the back end around while
transitioning and drifting in general. It also allows you to get more traction on the rear
which results in more speed. But, more weight in the back also means that you have to
work harder to keep it in check and it also makes it easy to transfer too much weight
while transitioning, causing the back end to come around too fast.
Stiffening the rear end will make initiations easier, but it doesn't allow you to transfer as
much weight which is essential to a good drift. Remember, there are plenty of ways to
initiate your car without the help of stiff suspension, so it's typically a good idea to stay
away from super stiff suspension.
Suspension can also help you create/reduce oversteer and understeer. If you stiffen the
front or soften the rear, you can reduce oversteer. By stiffening the rear and softening
the front, you increase oversteer. Oversteer is crutial to drifting, but too much of it can
be a problem

_________________________________________________________________________________

Ride Height-

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"The Tip: When you go to the ride height, It is always better to have the front end
slightly higher than the rear end. The reason so is because you need the extra support
for the engine when you brake. (Note: This is for both Mid Engine and Front Engine)
The Reason: When you brake, the car's mass is shifted from being in the center of
the car to the front of the car. You can see this effect happen by looking at the Body
Accelerometer when you press "Up" on the D-Pad. So you ask, "Well, why does this
have to happen for Mid Engine?" Well, although making a car Mid Engine balances out
the center of gravity of the car, when you hit the brake, a Mid Engine car has to deal
with the equal amount of body acceleration applied. Therefore, upraising the front end
of the car will give the front engines a bit of relief and Mid Engines more stopping
power.
Want an Example? Refer to the Top Secret Silvia D-Spec S15. Notice how even
without looking at the tuning setup, you can clearly see the front end is much higher
than the rear end. It may be different otherwise when you actually look at the tune, but
this is how I tune with a bit of science applied

"

"Dividing the weight on the front springs by 4 (combined number of axles) and then by
dividing that number with 3 (remaining axles) leaves you with an increment that you
can follow going up or down. For example, if my front spring rate is 500lbs and I divide
that by 4, I get 125. Dividing 125 by 3, I get 41.6. So i would have to add or subtract
41.6 to the Front Spring to actually tell a difference. This method can also be applied to
the Rear Springs."
Special thanks to IRI GrandFX and CSI Ratava253 for the info in quotes

_________________________________________________________________________________
Rebound Stiffness
You guessed it. Same formula. The Rebound stiffness will always be 12 if you have
Race Springs installed. so if my weight was 52% on the front and 48% on the rear, it
would go...
12-1=11
11 x .52=5.72 (round to 5.7)
5.7+1=6.7
6.7 would be your Front Rebound stiffness
and for the rear...
12-1=11
11 x .48=5.28 (round to 5.3)
5.3+1=6.3
6.3 would be the Rear Rebound stiffness
Bump Stiffness
Make it anywhere from 50% - 75% of what the Rebound stiffness is. For instance, if
your Rebound stiffness was
Front: 6.6
Rear: 6.4
Then make your Bump stiffness
Front: Anywhere from 3.3 to 4.9
Rear: Anywhere from 3.2 to 4.8

_________________________________________________________________________________

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Brake Distribution
Brake Distribution is based on personal preference. Increasing bias to the front will
encourage your car to straighten out from a drift, but it can make your braking
unpredictable or possibly lock up too early under certain conditions, which could be a
game breaker if you are in a tandem situation.
Brake bias to the back acts as a sort of soft handbrake, allowing you to do minor
adjustments mid drift if you get it right. Doing so however can slow you down a bit.
50/50 gives you a very predictable setup that can be used to slow your car down mid
drift withou affecting your line, which is probably the most useful thing if you are
tandeming with someone who is quite slow, or suddenly decides to pull the E-brake at
weird moments.
Overall though, there is no "best" way to setup your brakes; how you set
them up depends on your style and what you want to get out of them.
Brake Pressure
Again, Brake pressure is based on personal preference. I find that 120% pressure suits
me very well
Differentials
When you are drifting, you want the wheels to be at the same speed, so your diff is
locked up. This is so you can have a predictable car, and to make sure all the power
doesn't go to the inside wheel in a drift, because this is where the least load and grip is
and it will also help "push" your car into a spin. However, you don't want your diff
constantly locked, because it can make it a bit difficult to transition and initiate. So, you
generally want to run between 80-90% for the accel, enough to ensure it's locked
whilst drifting, but unlocked when you need it to be.
Accel, like brakes, is all preference. Less accel can make your car a bit less vicious and
help you come back from mistakes by allowing your rear wheels to accept their natural
wheel speeds and gain optimum grip when you lift off; so, if you are about to spin, it'll
help (Not garauntee, but help) rescue the tail of your car. However, running low deccel
can be slightly annoying because it can make the car unpredictable when braking; If
you ever find that you applied the brakes and the car suddenly shoots off to the right or
the left, it's because you have low accel settings. So, I would say run your deccel
settings as low as you can without ruining the way your car slows down
Gearing
Tuning gears is essential to drifting. you have to find the "Money Gear". This is usually
3rd or 4th gear. Take your car to the track that you want the gears to be tuned on. I
recommend using 3rd gear because it is the middle-most gear so you have other gears
to shift into in different situations. Put your car in 3rd gear and drift a few corners. If
you notice that your car is redlining (bouncing off of the rev limiter) too quickly which is
causing you to lose speed, then tune the final drive 3 clicks towards the "speed"
setting. This will make all of the gears a little bit longer which will make it redline later.
Tune your final drive so that 3rd gear drifts most corners with around 1000rpm's to
spare until it redlines.
Just tuning the final drive doesn't solve your problem sometimes. if all of your gears are
perfect besides one gear, go to that individual gear and tune it. try to avoid going to
extremes as it will through off your gearing a lot. for example, if you like your 2nd and
4th gear, but your 3rd gear seems like it bogs down (loses rpm's) mid-drift, then go to
the 3rd gear in tuning setup and tune it about 3 clicks towards acceleration. repeat this
process until you are happy with the gears. keep in mind that some cars only have 4
gears and other cars have 5 gears or 6 gears.
Congratulation. You just tuned a drift car.
Im sure that I am forgetting things here and there and Im sure that many of you tune
differently. This is just a general way to tune your car for beginners and pros alike.

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If you have any suggestions, please leave a comment and I will add them in

Jeff Walker | Team Apex Founder & Leader | Motocross Racer | Keep Drifting Fun

10-13-2011, 3:36 PM

4874092 in reply to 4869639

Re: Tuning Guide *For Drifting Competitions*

Joined on 08-10-2009
Michigan

Bump for the tuners

Forza Community VIP

Jeff Walker | Team Apex Founder & Leader | Motocross Racer | Keep Drifting Fun

10-13-2011, 4:44 PM

4874586 in reply to 4874092

Re: Tuning Guide *For Drifting Competitions*

Joined on 06-01-2007
Boston, MA GMT-5
U-class Racing License

Been using this as a base tune for almost all my cars for a while now. Good stuff
We def need to drift some more Walker. You can help me with this damn sim steering.
Haha.

10-13-2011, 6:28 PM

4875162 in reply to 4874586

Re: Tuning Guide *For Drifting Competitions*

Joined on 11-13-2010
Forza Community VIP

9 de 16

Mods. This should be stickied again.

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| F/A | Wheel | I was born to make mistakes, not to fake perfection. |

4875386 in reply to 4875162

10-13-2011, 7:06 PM

Re: Tuning Guide *For Drifting Competitions*

Joined on 05-21-2007
RunFree Garage, Canada
S-class Racing License

sticky this stuff, for sure.

i haters.
'08 Galaxy Grey Honda Civic EX Coupe (FG1) - daily driver
'12 Taffeta White Honda Civic Si Sedan (FB6) - in transit

10-13-2011, 7:07 PM

4875398 in reply to 4875162

Re: Tuning Guide *For Drifting Competitions*

Joined on 04-23-2009
"Just watching the big picture"
Forza Community VIP

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Bballswisher4:
Mods. This should be stickied again.
Seconded.
-5 Camber/Toe or bust y0!

| Professional Fun Haver | Skewed Counter Steering |"On a scale of 1 to Demon...?" Spirit
|Inactive|

10-13-2011, 9:34 PM

4876276 in reply to 4875398

Re: Tuning Guide *For Drifting Competitions*

Joined on 08-10-2009
Michigan
Forza Community VIP

Thanks guys for the sticky request.

@Marcan - Yeah we definitely need to drift again man. It's been a long while! I'll be
happy to help you with sim steering

Jeff Walker | Team Apex Founder & Leader | Motocross Racer | Keep Drifting Fun

10-13-2011, 9:41 PM

4876323 in reply to 4875398

Re: Tuning Guide *For Drifting Competitions*

Joined on 10-30-2008
Macon, GA.
Forza Community VIP

SCS Demon:
Bballswisher4:
Mods. This should be stickied again.
Seconded.
Thirdededededededededededededededededededededededededededededededededed
Spectre Status Recognized | 1995 240SX

10-13-2011, 10:51 PM

4876649 in reply to 4876323

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Re: Tuning Guide *For Drifting Competitions*

Joined on 03-09-2010
END Impulse

Spawn613:

FM.net 5k Posts Club Member

SCS Demon:
Bballswisher4:
Mods. This should be stickied again.
Seconded.
Thirdededededededededededededededededededededededededededededededededed
Fourthed.

PrepH- For all your butthurt needs...

10-13-2011, 11:10 PM

4876730 in reply to 4876649

Re: Tuning Guide *For Drifting Competitions*

Joined on 04-23-2009
"Just watching the big picture"
Forza Community VIP

12 de 16

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END Impulse:
Spawn613:
SCS Demon:
Bballswisher4:
Mods. This should be
stickied again.
Seconded.

Thirdedededededededededededededededededededededededededededededededede
Fourthed.
5th. o wait...
-5 Camber/Toe or bust y0!

| Professional Fun Haver | Skewed Counter Steering |"On a scale of 1 to Demon...?" Spirit
|Inactive|

10-14-2011, 12:52 AM

4877096 in reply to 4876730

Re: Tuning Guide *For Drifting Competitions*

Joined on 05-21-2007
RunFree Garage, Canada
S-class Racing License

technically it would be 6th. You forgot me :(

i haters.
'08 Galaxy Grey Honda Civic EX Coupe (FG1) - daily driver
'12 Taffeta White Honda Civic Si Sedan (FB6) - in transit

10-14-2011, 4:05 AM

4877628 in reply to 4877096

Re: Tuning Guide *For Drifting Competitions*

Joined on 02-19-2008
Team Xenon

Good to see this thread revamped, very useful.

Forza Community VIP

2012 Infiniti G37xS | TopSpeed Exhaust | BERK HFC | CF Rear Diffuser

Team Xenon 2007
Gamertag: pheers

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10-14-2011, 4:20 AM

4877668 in reply to 4877628

Re: Tuning Guide *For Drifting Competitions*

Joined on 06-25-2009
Colorado

Walker check PMs please

Forza Community VIP

10-14-2011, 8:02 AM

4878366 in reply to 4877668

Re: Tuning Guide *For Drifting Competitions*

Joined on 09-17-2008
The East.
Forza Community VIP

Needs sticky.

( )

10-14-2011, 8:57 AM

4878603 in reply to 4876276

Re: Tuning Guide *For Drifting Competitions*

Joined on 06-01-2007
Boston, MA GMT-5
U-class Racing License

APX Walker:
@Marcan - Yeah we definitely need to drift again man. It's been a long
while! I'll be happy to help you with sim steering
Sounds good man. FR sent.

10-14-2011, 3:31 PM

4880654 in reply to 4878603

Re: Tuning Guide *For Drifting Competitions*

Joined on 10-05-2011
Driver's Permit

This tuning guide seems great ! gonna give it a go right now !

10-15-2011, 2:23 PM

4885647 in reply to 4869639

Re: Tuning Guide *For Drifting Competitions*

Joined on 02-19-2008
Team Xenon

This thread needs a bump

Forza Community VIP

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http://forums.forzamotorsport.net/forums/thread/4869639.aspx

2012 Infiniti G37xS | TopSpeed Exhaust | BERK HFC | CF Rear Diffuser

Team Xenon 2007
Gamertag: pheers

10-15-2011, 3:01 PM

4885836 in reply to 4885647

Re: Tuning Guide *For Drifting Competitions*

Joined on 06-25-2009
Colorado

This still needs to be stickied! Mods? Pwease sticky this?

Forza Community VIP

10-15-2011, 3:39 PM

4886080 in reply to 4869639

Re: Tuning Guide *For Drifting Competitions*

Joined on 06-09-2009
A-class Racing License

APX Walker:
Aspiration-You have the choice of a Single turbo, Twin Turbo,
Twin-Screw Supercharger, and a Centrifugal Supercharger. Most people
stick with a single turbo, but you may experience something called
Turbo Lag. What is Turbo Lag? While drifting, the turbo takes a
few seconds to spool up. When it finally spools up, it lets out a
boost of speed. Sometimes the boost of speed can catch you
off guard and may cause you to spin out. Some people avoid
using turbos for this reason, but if you get used to the Turbo
Lag, then you can use it to your advantage. i.e. coming out of
corners, you can gain a lot of speed from turbo lag.

Gearing
Tuning gears is essential to drifting. you have to find the "Money Gear". This is usually
3rd or 4th gear. Take your car to the track that you want the gears to be tuned on. I
recommend using 3rd gear because it is the middle-most gear so you have other gears
to shift into in different situations. Put your car in 3rd gear and drift a few corners. If
you notice that your car is redlining (bouncing off of the rev limiter) too quickly which is
causing you to lose speed, then tune the final drive 3 clicks towards the "speed"
setting. This will make all of the gears a little bit longer which will make it redline later.
Tune your final drive so that 3rd gear drifts most corners with around 1000rpm's to
spare until it redlines.
^^^quote fail, stupid forum
should really remove the bold part as its not really true and in Forza you hardly notice
turbo lag while drifting
also hitting the rev limiter doesn't = losing speed, if you can still keep the wheels
spinning and the car sideways then there is no need to be able to rev it more, reving it
more will mean more wheel spin which = less speed, issue with hitting the rev limiter is
once you start gaining speed in a corner you'll run out of revs to keep the wheels
spinning and need to change gear which isn't something you really want to do mid
corner while drifting

28/11/2013 12:50

Forzamotorsport.net Forums - Tuning Guide *For Drifting Competitions*

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http://forums.forzamotorsport.net/forums/thread/4869639.aspx

http://www.youtube.com/user/equoowe <-- my real life drifting video's

10-15-2011, 6:41 PM

4887137 in reply to 4885836

Re: Tuning Guide *For Drifting Competitions*

Joined on 09-26-2011
Scotland
Racing Permit

Awesome guide... just tuned my 240sx and its awesome!

Thanks for the guide :)

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28/11/2013 12:50