Wrinkle Free PDF

A STUDTY OF THE RESIN FINISHING ON WRINKLE PROPERTY OF
LIGHT WEIGHT 100% COTTON PLAIN FABRIC
HO LONG YI
BA (Hons) Scheme in Fashion and Textiles
(Fashion Technology Specialism)
INSTITUTE OF TEXTILES & CLOTHING

THE HONG KONG POLYTECHNIC UNIVERSITY
2012
A STUDTY OF THE RESIN FINISHING ON WRINKLE PROPERTY OF

LIGHT WEIGHT 100% COTTON PLAIN FABRIC
A Thesis Submitted
in Partial Fulfilment of the Requirements
for the Degree of
Bachelor of Arts (Honours)
in
Fashion & Textiles
(Fashion Technology Specialism)
under the Supervision of
Dr.C. H. Chui
by
HO LONG YI
Institute of Textiles & Clothing

The Hong Kong Polytechnic University
May 2012
Acknowledgement
I would like to express my gratitude to my supervisor Dr.C. H.

Chui, Assistant Professor of the Institute of Textiles and
Clothing at The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, for his
constant guidance, advice and sustained interest throughout
the whole period of my final year project. He kindly gave his
time to assist me for the project and immediate help would be
provided when I face difficulties throughout the whole period.
Special thanks are given to Dr. C.W. Kan, Assistant Professor

of the Institute of Textiles and Clothing at The Hong Kong
Polytechnic University for his additional guidance related to
wrinkle property.
Heartfelt thanks are sent to laboratory technicians of the

Institute of Textiles and Clothing for their kindly help,
valuable advice and guidance in operating the laboratory
equipment.
The last but not the least, the greatest thanks are expressed
to my family, classmates and friends for their unlimited
support and encouragement at the critical monument.
AUTHORIZATION
I hereby declare that this thesis is my own work and that,
to the best of my knowledge and belief, it reproduces no
material previously published or written, nor material
that has been accepted for the award of any other degree
or diploma, except where due acknowledgement had been
made in the text.
__________________________________________(Signed)
_________________________________________(Name of student)
II
Abstract
The purpose of this study was to investigate the wrinkle

resistant of light weight 100% cotton plain woven fabric with
resin treatment of different conditions. Cotton plain woven
fabric has high tendency to form crease and wrinkle.
It is a
problem in the garment industry as light weight cotton fabric

would usually be applied in manufacturing shirt.
Apart from wrinkle property, the effect of wrinkle treatment

towards the tearing strength and dimensional stability would
also be studied.
In this project, experimental investigation would be conducted

to assess the anti-wrinkle performance of the resin treated
cotton plain fabric. The study is in two parts. The first part
is to apply different resin treatment perimeters on the light
weight 100% cotton plain fabric. The perimeters include
different resin concentration (30g/L, 45g/L, 60g/L), pick-up
ratio (60%, 70%, 80%), drying temperature (110, 120) and
curing time (2mins, 2.5mins, 3mins). The second part is to
evaluate the wrinkle properties, as well as tearing strength
and dimensional stability of the resin treated fabric with
different perimeters by related standard testing.
Meanwhile, the effect of different perimeters towards the

performances of the light weight cotton plain fabric would be
studied and compared.
Finally, general conclusion and recommendation would be drawn

based on the testing result and overall performance of the
fabric.
III
Content
Page
Acknowledgment
Authorization
II
Abstract
III
Content
IV
List of Table
XIII
List of Figures
Chapter 1
XIV
Introduction
1.1
Background of Study
1.2
Objective
1.3
Scope of Study
1.4
Methodology
1.5
Significance of study
1.6
Chapter Summary
Chapter2
Literature Review
2.1
Introduction
2.2
Cotton
2.2.1
Introduction
IV
2.2.2
History
2.2.3
Physical Structure of cotton
2.2.3.1
Fiber length and fineness
2.2.3.2
Morphology
2.2.3.3
Color
11
2.2.4
Chemical Properties of cotton
12
2.2.4.1
Chemical Structure
12
2.2.4.2
Absorbency and moisture regain
13
2.2.4.3
Wrinkle Property
13
2.2.4.4
Thermal Degradation
14
2.2.4.5
Acid Degradation
15
2.2.5
Mechanical Properties of cotton
15
2.2.5.1
Strength
15
2.2.5.2
Dimensional stability
16
2.3
Light weight plain woven fabric
16
2.3.1
Woven fabric
17
2.3.2
Plain weaving
18
2.3.3
Light weight fabric
20
2.4
Wrinkle
21
2.4.1
Principle of crease formation
21
2.4.2
Mechanism of Wrinkle Resistance
22
2.4.3
Historical development of
traditional resin
24
2.4.4
Dystar Resin modified (DMDHEU)
25
2.4.5
Pad-Dry-Cure and resin
31
2.4.6
Other anti-wrinkle technology
34
2.4.6.1
Urea-formaldehyde (U/F)
34
2.4.6.2
Melamine-formaldehyde (M/F)
35
2.4.6.3
N, N-Dimethyl- 4,
5-dihydroxyethylene urea (DMeDHEU)
37
2.4.6.4
1,2,3,4-Butantetracarboxylic acid (BTCA)40
2.5
Conclusion
Chapter 3
42
Methodology and Experiment
3.1
Introduction
43
3.2
Fabric specification
43
3.3
Parameter of experiment
44
3.4
Application on fabric resin treatment
44
3.4.1
Preparation for Resin
44
VI
3.4.2
Padding
45
3.4.3
Drying
46
3.4.4
Curing
47
3.5
Standard Testing and Measurement
48
3.5.1
Wrinkle Recovery of Woven Fabrics:

Recovery Angle (AATCC 66)
48
3.5.1.1
Introduction
48
3.5.1.2
Principle
49
3.5.1.3
Apparatus and Materials
49
3.5.1.4
Sample Preparation
50
3.5.1.5
Procedure
51
3.5.1.6
Evaluation
52
3.5.2
Wrinkle Recovery of Fabrics: Appearance

Method (AATCC 128)
52
3.5.2.1
Introduction
52
3.5.2.2
Principle
53
3.5.2.3
53
3.5.2.4
Sample Preparation
54
3.5.2.5
Experimental Procedure
55
VIII
3.5.2.6
Evaluation
56
3.5.3
Smoothness Appearance of Fabrics after

Repeated Home Laundering (AATCC 124)
56
3.5.3.1
Introduction
56
3.5.3.2
Principle
57
3.5.3.3
57
3.5.3.4
Sample Preparation
58
3.5.3.5
Procedure
58
3.5.4
Determination of tear force using

ballistic pendulum method (Elmendorf)
(BS EN ISO 13937-1)
59
3.5.4.1
Introduction
59
3.5.4.2
Principle
59
3.5.4.3
60
3.5.4.4
Sample Preparation
61
3.5.4.5
Procedure
61
3.5.5
Determination of tear force of

trouser-shaped test specimens
(Single tear method)(BS EN ISO 13937-2) 61
VIII
3.5.5.1
Introduction
61
3.5.5.1
Introduction
61
3.5.5.2
Principle
62
3.5.5.3
62
3.5.5.4
Sample Preparation
64
3.5.5.5
Procedure
64
3.5.6
Dimensional Changes in Commercial

Laundering of Woven and Knitted
Fabrics
64
3.5.6.1
Introduction
64
3.5.6.2
Principle
65
3.5.6.3
65
3.5.6.4
Sample Preparation
66
3.5.6.5
Procedure
66
Chapter 4
Wrinkle Properties of Cotton Fabric

Except Wool (AATCC 96)
4.1
4.1.1
AATCC Test Method 66 Wrinkle Recovery

Of Woven Fabrics: Recovery Angle
67
Introduction
67
IX
4.1.2
Result
67
4.1.3
Discussion
69
4.1.4
Conclusion
74
4.2
AATCC Test Method 128 Wrinkle Recovery

of Fabrics: Appearance Method
75
4.2.1
Introduction
75
4.2.2
Result
76
4.2.3
Discussion
77
4.2.4
Conclusion
84
4.3
AATCC Test Standard 124 Smoothness

Appearance of Fabrics after Repeated
Home Laundering
85
4.3.1
Introduction
85
4.3.2
Result
86
4.3.3
Discussion
87
4.3.4
Conclusion
94
Chapter 5
5.1
Tearing Properties of Cotton Fabric

Determination of tear force using
ballistic pendulum method (Elmendorf)
(BS EN ISO 13937-1)
97
Introduction
97
5.1.2
Result
98
5.1.3
Discussion
99
5.1.4
Conclusion
106
5.2
Determination of tear force of
5.1.1
trouser-shaped test specimens

(Single tear method)
(BS EN ISO 13937-2)
107
5.2.1
Introduction
107
5.2.2
Result
107
5.2.3
Discussion
109
5.2.4
Conclusion
116
Chapter 6
6.1
Dimensional Stability
Laundering of Woven and Knitted
Fabrics Except Wool (AATCC 96)
118
6.1.1
Introduction
118
6.1.2
Result
119
XI
6.1.3
Discussion
120
6.1.4
Conclusion
130
Chapter 7
Conclusion and Recommendation
7.1
General Conclusion
132
7.2
Recommendation
135
Reference
XII
List of Table
Table 2-1 Properties of Evo Pret RCI-H
Table 3-1 Fabric specification
Table 3-2 Treatment parameter
Table 3-3 Resin chemical recipe
Table 3-4 Summary for the using of the Horizontal padder
Table 4-1 Comparison between control and treated
specimens
specimens
specimens
specimens
specimens
specimens
XIII
List of Figures
Fig2-1 Layers of cellulose (Cotton Incorporated,2012)
Fig2-2 Convolutions of Cotton Fiber (Cotton
Incorporated,2012)
Fig 2-3 Chemical Structure of Cellulose (Cotton
Incorporated,2012)
Fig2-4 Cellulose Degradation cotton by H+ ion (Lam, 2011)
Fig 2-5 Plain weaving (Kadolph, 1998)
Fig 2-6 Resin crosslinking (Kadolph, 1998)
Fig 2-7 Evo Pret RCI-H
Fig 2-8 Crosslinking of cellulose with DMDHEU (Hauser,
2004)
Fig 2-9 Synthesis of DMDHEU, (Hauser, 2004)
Fig 2-10 Dimethylol urea reactions (Hauser, 2004)
Fig 2-11 Melamine-formaldehyde reactions (Hauser, 2004)
Fig 2-12
Synthesis of DMeDHEU (Hauser, 2004)
Fig 2-13
Crosslinking of cellulose with DMeDHEU (Hauser,
2004)
Fig 2-14 The activation mechanism of BTCA (Hauser, 2004)
XIV
Fig 2-15 Crosslinking of cellulose with BTCA (Hauser,

2004)
Fig3-1 Horizontal padder
Fig3-2 Drying oven
Fig3-3 Curing Machine
Fig3-4 Apparatus for AATCC 66
Fig3-5 AATCC Wrinkle Tester
Fig 3-6 Washing machine and tumble dryer for AATCC 124
Fig 3-7 Pendulum testing machine with electronic device
Fig 3-8 Weight used for the pendulum testing machine for
the cotton specimens
Fig 3-9 Constant-rate-of-extension (CRE) testing machine
Fig 3-10 Software for running the CRE machine
Fig 4-1 Relationship between resin level and wrinkle
recovery angle
Fig 4-2 Relationship between pick-up ratio and wrinkle
recovery angle
XV
Fig 4-3 Relationship between curing time and wrinkle

recovery angle
recovery angle
recovery grading (wrinkle recovery rating 5 is the best
while 1 is the worst)
Fig4-6 Relationship between pick-up ratio and wrinkle
recovery grading (wrinkle recovery grade 5 is the best
Fig4-7 Relationship between curing time and wrinkle
Fig 4-8 Relationship between drying temperature and
wrinkle recovery grading (wrinkle recovery grade 5 is the
best while 1 is the worst)
Fig 4-9 Relationship between the number of laundering and
XVI

Fig 4-11 Relationship between pick-up ratio and wrinkle
Fig 5-1 Relationship between warp and weft in tearing
resistance
tearing resistance
Fig 5-3 Relationship between curing time and tearing
resistance
Fig 5-4 Relationship between resin level and tearing
XVII
resistance
Fig 5-5 Relationship between pick-up ratio and tearing
resistance
Fig 5-6 Relationship between warp and weft in tearing
resistance
tearing resistance
resistance
resistance
Fig 5-10 Relationship between pick-up ratio and tearing
resistance
Fig 6-1 Relationship between warp and weft with %
dimensional change
Fig 6-2 Relationship between number of laundering and
dimensional change
Fig 6-3 Relationship between resin level and dimensional
change
XVIII
Fig 6-4 Relationship between pick-up ratio and

dimensional change
dimensional change
Fig 6-6 Relationship between curing time and dimensional
change
XIX
Chapter 1
1.1
Introduction
Background of Study
100% cotton light weight plain fabric is commonly applied

on the making shirt in the garment industry. However,
cotton light weight fabric forms wrinkle easily. As a
shirting fabric, this is not preferable. In order to
tackle this problem, many anti-wrinkle treatments have
been developed to improve the wrinkle property. Resin
treatment is one of it. Resin is widely used in cotton
fabric as a wrinkle free chemical.
On reality, Resin treatment is only enhancing the wrinkle
property, but also reducing the tearing strength at the
same time.
1.2
Objective
There are three objectives for the study. The first one
is to study the anti-wrinkle effect of the resin when
being applied on the 100% cotton light weight plain
fabric under different treating conditions. The second
1
one is to study the effect of the mechanical property of

the treated fabric. The third one is to optimize the
effect of resin treatments perimeter to product better
effect on light weight 100% cotton plain fabric.
1.3
Scope of Study
The study is in two parts. The first part is to apply

different resin treatment perimeters on the light weight
100% cotton plain fabric. The perimeters include
different resin concentration (30g/L, 45g/L, 60g/L),
pick-up ratio (60%, 70%, 80%), drying temperature (110,
120) and curing time (2mins, 2.5mins, 3mins).
The samples generated would then be used for the second
part of the study. The second part of the study is to
evaluate the anti-wrinkle property and mechanical
property of different samples by standard testing. For
anti-wrinkle effect, AATCC 66 (Wrinkle Recovery of Woven
Fabrics: Recovery Angle), AATCC 124 (Smoothness
Appearance of Fabrics after Repeated Home Laundering) and
2
AATCC 128 (Wrinkle Recovery of: Appearance Method) would

be adopted for the evaluations. For the changes in
mechanical properties, BS EN ISO 13937-1 (Determination
of tear force using ballistic pendulum method (Elmendorf))
and EN ISO 13937-2 (Determination of tear force of
trouser-shaped test specimens (Single tear method)) would
be adopted for the evaluations.
1.4
Methodology
For achieving the objectives of the study, the following

methodologies have been adopted in this research.
1.
Literature reviews would be conducted for acquiring
background knowledge in this field and the latest

development in the related area.
2.
Resin treatment would be applied to the on light
weight 100% cotton plain fabric with the different

perimeters by Pad-Dry-Cure method,
3.
International standards such as AATCC and ISO test
methods would be adopted for evaluation and comparison.

3
4.
Conclusion would be summarized and recommendation
would be drawn.
1.5
Significance of study
This study aims at improving the wrinkle resistant

performance of light weight cotton plain fabric. The
importance of applying resin treatment in anti-wrinkle
would be studied. Moreover, the effect of treatment
conditions, such as curing time, resin level and pick-up
ratio to the performance of the fabric would be
investigated.
1.6
Chapter Summary
This thesis comprises of seven chapters.

In chapter 1, the background, objectives, scopes,
methodology and significance of this research will be
introduced.
In Chapter 2, relevant literature reviews will be

4
conducted. It would be focused on the cotton fiber and

its molecular structure, the plain weaving structure and
the development and application of anti-wrinkle
technology in textile industry. Meanwhile, the
relationship between the cotton fiber and weaving
structure to the wrinkle performance would be studied.
In Chapter 3, the fabric specification and different

perimeters to apply the resin treatment would be covered.
The details for Pad-Dry Cure method and the relevant
standard testing would be discussed
In Chapter 4, the wrinkle properties of the cotton fabric

would be evaluated and discussed based on the result of
the standard testing.
Chapter 5 would cover the tearing strength of the resin

treated fabric and investigation would be carried to
evaluate the effect of the treated conditions towards the
5
change in tearing performance.
Chapter 6 would cover the dimensional changes of the

resin treated fabric and investigate the contribution of
different factors towards the dimensional stability.
Chapter 7 is the general conclusion of this study.

Recommendations would be provided for further study.
Chapter2
Literature Review
2.1
Introduction
2.2
Cotton
2.2.1
Introduction
Cotton is a natural vegetable fiber. It is cellulose

fiber as it is from plant and is organic compound. Cotton
has been used for making garment for over 5000 years and
is still the most important fiber in todays industry.
The cotton fiber is popular because of it attractive
properties such as pleasing appearance, comfortably and
good moisture performance are the reason for the
popularity of the cotton. Cotton could be applied not
only on sportswear, casual wear and business wear, but
also draperies, towels, furniture and bedding. The wide
application of cotton is making it to be the most
important fiber of the world. In 2007, cotton accounts
7
for about 40 percent of total world fiber production.

(United States Department of Agriculture, 2009) (National
Cotton Council, 2007)
2.2.2
History
Cotton has long been applied in garment. There is

historical finding that Cotton had been cultivated in the
7,000 years ago (B.C 5000) in Pakistan. Cotton
cultivation was then widespread to a huge swath of the
northwestern part of the South Asia, and finally, the
whole world. The cotton industry at that time was well
developed and some methods were still used in cotton
spinning and fabrication continued to be used until the
modern industrialization. (Kadolph ,1998)
2.2.3
Physical Structure of cotton
2.2.3.1
Fiber length and fineness
Cotton is fine staple fiber. The length of cotton fiber

8
varies from 16mm to 52mm depending by the species. The

longer the staple fiber length, the higher the quality of
the cotton fiber is. It is because the length of the
fiber could affect the handling of the cotton and the
tensile strength. Longer cotton fiber is able to make
finer and stronger yarns. Moreover, the fabric product
made by longer cotton staple fiber is softer, smoother
and more lustrous.
The fineness of cotton fiber generally varies from 1.1 to
2.3 decitex depending by the species. However, the
maturity level of the cotton would also affect the
fineness. (Tortora 1997)
2.2.3.2
Morphology
Cotton is cellulose fiber. Majority of its contain is

cellulose, and the rest are water, waxes and fats. Since
there is different in density of the layers deposited at
night and day, growth ring is result on the cross section
of the cotton fiber. The cross-section of cotton fiber is
9
in kidney shape. (Hearle, 2007)

Cotton fiber is made up of a cuticle, primary wall,
secondary wall and lumen. Cuticle is the waxy like file
covering the primary wall. Layers of cellulose are
deposited on the inside of the thin, waxy primary wall.
Lumen is the central canal.
Fig2-1 Layers of cellulose (Cotton Incorporated,2012)
The longitude structure of cotton under microscope is

10
fine regular fiber with convolutions looking like a

twisted ribbon. It is because the cellulose layers are
composed of spirally arranged fibrils, which are the
bundles of cellulose chains.
Fig2-2 Convolutions of Cotton Fiber (Cotton

Incorporated,2012)
2.2.3.3
Color
Cotton fiber is usually in white to tan in color. There

some rare cotton fiber which are naturally in brown, tan
and green colors. Meanwhile, cotton could be colored by
dyeing and printing to meet the fashion and customer
needs. (Tortora 1997)
11
2.2.4
Chemical Properties of cotton
2.2.4.1
Chemical Structure
Cotton is cellulose fiber. In finished cotton fabric, the

cellulose content could be up to 99%. It contains carbon,
hydrogen, oxygen with reactive hydroxyl (OH) group.
Cotton has about 70% crystalline region and 30% amorphous
region. The cellulose polymers in cotton fiber have high
degree of polymerization. The basic unit of cellulose
molecule is glucose. The cellulose molecule is long
linear chain. The length of chain is a factor affecting
fiber strength. (Tortora 1997) The repeating unit of
cotton cellulose is as shown.
Fig 2-3 Chemical Structure of Cellulose (Cotton

Incorporated, 2012)
12
The chemical reactivity of cotton cellulose is highly

related to the hydroxyl (-OH) groups. The groups attract
water and dye and making cotton fiber water absorptive
and easy to dye.
2.2.4.2 Absorbency and moisture regain

The hydroxyl (-OH) groups in the cellulose chain makes
cotton an absorbent fiber. Cotton is hydrophilic and has
high moisture regain property, which is usually 7% to 8 %
under standard condition or up to 60% at the very humid
condition. When wetted, it strength would increase by
about 10 %. Cotton fiber is comfortable as it can adsorb
moisture away from human body and aid evaporation and
cooling. It also has good conductivity and is able to
allow heat to dissipate. (Hsieh, 2007)
2.2.4.3
Wrinkle Property
The last but not the least, cotton has very poor wrinkle
resistance and recovery from deformations. It is because
13
the relocation of the bonding between the fiber. This

part would be further discussed in the part related to
wrinkle formation.
2.2.4.4 Thermal Degradation

High temperature causes dehydration and decomposition of
cellulose.
Moistures in cellulose fiber would be driven
off at 120C.
At 150C, the molecular weight and tensile
strength would start to be lowered. When the heating is

up to 200C, volatile products would start to be evolved.
Heating below 250C would affect the amorphous regions
only. The crystalline regions would be affected with
significant reduction when the heating is up to 250C. At
300C, the disappearance of crystalline structure would
even occur. when further heating to 300C. At 450C,
there would be only char remained. (Shafizadeh, F., 1985)
(Bilales, N. M. ,1971)
It is the thermal degradation of cellulose. Therefore,
the high temperature would reduce the strength of the
14
cotton fiber.
2.2.4.5 Acid Degradation

Cotton is sensitive to the damage of acid, especially
concentrated acids. The glycosidic bond in cellulose
fiber would be split by the action of H+ ion of acid.
Fig2-4 Cellulose Degradation cotton by H+ ion (Lam, 2011)
2.2.5 Mechanical Properties of Cotton
2.2.5.1 Strength
When comparing with other cellulose fiber such as flax
and rayon, cotton is relatively weaker. Cotton strength
15
is at medium level. The strength of cotton is about 3.0

to 4.9 g/d. Even though cotton has high degree of
crystallinity, the crystalline region is in low
orientation. The strength of cotton would increase when
the polymer length increase within the chains. Cotton is
yet strong enough and able to spin to fine yarn and light
weight fabric.
2.2.5.2
Dimensional stability
Cotton fiber would swell when contacted with water.

Because of the swelling, untreated cotton fabric is not
stable in dimension. It would shrink for the first few
time of laundering. Shrinkage is the reduction in size of
product. It is a frequent problem in cotton garment.
2.3
Light weight plain woven fabric
2.3.1
Woven fabric
Cotton fiber can form fabric by knitting, weaving and

16
non-woven methods. Cotton woven fabric is formed by

weaving. It is the process of forming fabric by yarns.
Cotton fiber is first spun to yarn after the sets of
preparation. The cotton yarn then weaves to form fabric
by interlacing two sets of yarns at right angle. The
longitudinal yarns are called the warp and the lateral
yarns are the weft or filling.
For the weaving process, there are three primary motions
in generate. They are Shedding, Picking and Beating up.
Shedding is the opening of the sheet warp yarns into two
sets, one is above the opening and the other is under the
opening. The motion provides a path for the weft yarns to
go inside for the insertion. The Shedding is usually
controlled by heddles and the order and pattern of
shedding could affect the structure of the woven fabric.
For Picking, it is the weft insertion motion followed by
the Shedding motion. The weft yarn is inserted by a
carrying device, such as shuttle, to pass the path so the
weft is in right angle interlacing with the warp. For
17
Beating up, it is the process to push the newly inserted

yarn with high force by reed and to stabilize the yarn to
interlace with the warp yarns.
2.3.2
Plain weaving
Plain fabric is the fabric which is made by weaving. It

is the simplest of the three basic weaves, which are
Plain, Twill and Satin. Plain weave is formed by two sets
of yarn at right angle passing over and under each other
alternately.(Kadolph 1998) From the Figure it is shown
that that the one of the weft yarn goes over the first
warp yarn and goes under the second warp yarn. While the
following weft yarn goes under the first warp yarn and
goes over the second warp yarn. This pattern would go for
the whole width of the fabric in weft direction. For a
weft all the odd number warps are over the weft while all
the even number warps are below the weft. Then the
position would be alternative for the following weft. For
18
the checkerboard pattern (the repeated unit at middle),

one square represents one yarn shown on the surface of
the fabric. The dark square represent warp yarns shown on
the surface while the white square represents weft yarn
shown on the surface.
Woven fabric could be divided into
balanced plain weave and unbalanced plain weave.
Fig 2-5 Plain weaving (Kadolph, 1998)
This weaving pattern shown is 1/1 plain and it is into

balanced plain weave. 1/1 plain is balanced plain weave
as in which warp and weft yarns are the same size and the
same distance part. 1/1 plain provides the largest number
of interlacing. It is also the fabric for conducting the
study. It is the most widely used types of woven fabric.
19
It could be able to product from very light weight fabric

to heavy weight fabric. The characteristics of plain
weave fabric are easy to form wrinkle, less ravel and
less absorbent than other woven fabric. Plain weave
fabric has no cleared different for the technical face
and back. It is good for creating print design and many
finishing as the surface as it is plain and relative
flatter than other weaves. Printings and finishing would
be conducted on both the face and the back side of the
fabric.
2.3.3
Light weight fabric
Light weight fabric is defined as fabric weight which is

less than 4.0 oz / yd.
(Kadolph 1998) Light weight
fabric is divided into light weight sheer fabric and

light weight opaque fabric. The applications of light
weight fabric include light weight appeal, curtains and
furnishings. Shirting fabric is one of the applications
of light weight fabric.
20
2.4
Wrinkle
2.4.1
Principle of crease formation
Wrinkle is the crease caused by crumpling, folding, or

shrinking on a normally smooth surface. It is defined as
the fabric deformations based on its viscoelastic
properties, meaning a slight depression in the smoothness
of a surface. It is formed when fabrics are crushed.
Cotton formed crease easily because of its weak
intermolecular bonds provide the fabric with poor
molecular memory.
Cotton is a cellulosic fiber and its polymer is linked

by many hydroxyl (OH) groups .The structural units of
cellulose contain crystalline region, amorphous region
and intermediate region. In the crystalline region, the
cellulose chains are closely packed and the mobility of
the chains is low. However, for the amorphous and the
intermediate regions, the molecular chains are
21
temporarily held together with weak hydrogen bonds and

the bonding could be broken easily when distortion force
is applied. After the force is applied, the temporarily
bonds would reform into a new position and the chains are
failed to return to their original positions. As a result,
crease is formed.
2.4.2
Mechanism of Wrinkle Resistance
Since the forming for wrinkle is because of the weak

intermolecular
improve
the
bonding,
wrinkle
cross-links
recovery.
are
Physically,
applied
to
crosslinking
resin could build a memory into fiber to allow it to

return to its original size and shape. Chemically, the
wrinkle
free
finishing
agent
would
react
with
the
cellulose and bring the cellulose molecules to forming

crosslinking.
22
Fig 2-6 Resin crosslinking (Kadolph, 1998)
Resin finishing for wrinkle resistant is to enhance the

memory of the cellulous chain so that they could return
to
its
original
position.
The
resin
finishing
forms
covalent bonds crosslinking to replace the weak hydrogen

bonds
between
stability
molecule
of
the
the
chains
cellulose
bonding
would
chains.
would
more
be
likely
Therefore,
improved
to
return
the
and
the
to
its
original position. When cellulose cotton fiber is treated

with
resin
agent,
strengthening
cellulous
intermolecular
because
chains
would
of
be
the
able
crosslinks
bonding.
to
hold
As
would
a
the
be
result,
adjacent
molecular chains and return into its original position

23
after the fiber is bent. The forming of wrinkle is then

prevented.
However,
the
acidic
catalyst
under
high
temperature during the processing would result in loss of

strength. Moreover, due
to the
crosslinking,
the hand
feel of cotton fabric would become stiff and deterred.
2.4.3
Historical development of traditional resin
The history of wrinkle resistant treatment started at

1920s when the research scientists at Toolal Broadhurst
Lee
Company
were
applying
urea-formaldehyde
resin
for
making cellulous fiber, such as cotton, linen and rayon,

wrinkle free. However, even though the fabric treated by
the urea-formaldehyde resin were smooth and wrinkle free,
there were lots of properties which are not welcomed by
the consumer. The early wrinkle free fabric was poor in
abrasion, weak in tear strength, high tendency to yellow,
poor
in
pilling
hand
and
and
bad
affinity
odor.
for
Moreover,
oily,
soils,
the
release
static,
of
the
fomaldehyde has been reported to cause cancer and blamed

24
for
the
toxicity.
developed.
The
urea
As
and
result,
alternatives
urea-formaldehyde
resin
were
were
replaced by dimethylolethylene urea (DMEU) in 1950s.

In 60s, dimethyloldihydroxyethylene (DMDHEU) became very
popular in wrinkle
free treatment. In 1990s, modified
dimethyloldihydroxyethylene
(DMDHEU)
was
developed.
(Kadolph ,1998)
Apart from formaldehyde based cross linking agent,
non-
formaldehyde based cross linking agents are also

developed. They are 1,2,3,4-butanetetracarboxylic acid
(BTCA), Polycarboxylic acids, Sodium hypophosphite(SHP),
N,Nl-1,3 dimethyl-4,5 dihydroxyethylene urea (DMeDHEU),
1,3-dihydroxyl-4,5-dimethyl-2-imidazolidinone (DHDMI) and
Citric acid (CA). (Lo, 2006),
2.4.4
Dystar Resin modified (DMDHEU)
The resin which is being used in this project is Evo Pret

RCI-H. It is a finishing auxiliary manufactured by DyStar.
The full name of DyStar is DyStar Colours Distribution
25
GmbH .It is an international textile dye and finishing

auxiliary manufacturer with more than 150 years of
experience. It has its Headquarter located at Singapore
and has agencies in about 50 countries. It not only
provides dyes and auxiliaries for the textile industry,
but also for the plastic and leather industries.
Fig 2-7 Evo Pret RCI-H
The chemical characteristics of Evo Pret RCI-H are

Modified Dimethyloldihy-droxyethylene urea (DMDHEU).
(DyStar Group, 2011) The principal reaction of DMDHEU
products is forming crosslinking with the adjacent
26
cellulose molecules. The movement of the cellulose

molecules is prevented by the crosslinking. Therefore,
when there is stress, wrinkle is not easily formed.
Meanwhile, it also prevents the occurrence of shrinkage.
Fig 2-8 Crosslinking of cellulose with DMDHEU (Hauser,

2004)
N,N'-Dimethylol-4,5-dihydroxyethylene urea (DMDHEU) is

the chemical basis
of about 90 % of the easy-care and durable press finish
products on the market.
DMDHEU is formed by urea, glyoxal and formaldehyde.
One
typical DMDHEU commercial product is consisted of about

27
45 % DMDHEU, 9 %
diethylene glycol and 2 % methanol.
This product could contain less than 0.3 % free

formaldehyde.
It is in low reactivity and
more active catalysts are
required. On application, finishing bathing containing

DMDHEU are more stable than other finishing baths such as
DMU and TMM. The reactivity of DMDHEU can be reduced by
reacting with methanol or diethylene glycol to formed
ether-modified DMDHEU products. The alcohols are also
formaldehyde scavengers and are often added to commercial
finish products. Diethylene glycol has the additional
advantage which is able to withstand high boiling
temperature of 254 C (490 F). Therefore, a significant
number of portions are remained in the cured fabric and
the free formaldehyde content is reduced via acetal
formation. Adddition of diethylene glycol can also
improve the chlorine fastness and the degree of whiteness
of the finished product. There are two ways to
incorporate diethylene glycol into the finishing chemical.
28
One is a simple mixture of the glycol and DMDHEU. The

other is
reacting the glycol with DMDHEU to form a
glycolated product. The two resulting products have

similar performance. Both types are available in the
market place and are referred to as ultra low
formaldehyde (ULF) with lessthan 50 ppm released
formaldehyde in the AATCC Testing Method 112-1983.
(Hauser, 2004) (Klemm, 1998) (Lam, 2011)
Fig 2-9 Synthesis of DMDHEU, (Hauser, 2004)
For DMDHEU-based anti-wrinkle products, the reactivity

is low. For modified DMDHEU-based products, the
reactivity is very low.
On the other hand, the restriction of molecular movement
29
leads to the loss of fabric tensile strength and tear

strength. It is because for fabric without crosslinking,
the tearing stresses can be distributed over many
molecules so part of the force can be released by the
slightly shifting to share the external forces. (Hauser,
2004)
Evo Pret RCI-H consists of self-catalysing crosslinking
system for low-formaldehyde finishes on textiles which
are made of cellulous or blends of cellulous. (DyStar
Group, 2011)
Table 2-1 Properties of Evo Pret RCI-H
Properties
Application
Simple as it contains
integrated catalyst
Formaldehyde content
Extremely low free
formaldehyde content
Comply with Oekotex Standard
100
Comply with Japanese Law 112
Comply with AATCC 112
Odour
Low odour in processing
Washing temperature
Resistant at the boil
Light fastness
Do not impair with the
dyeing and prints
Whiteness
Do not impair if treated
with acid-stable fluorescent
whiteners
Shrink resistance
Good
Crease resistance
Good
30
Table 2-2 Technical Data of Evo Pret RCI-H

Appearance
Density
pH value
2.4.5
Technical Data
Clear liquid with low
viscosity
Approx. 1.26kg/L
Approx. 2-3
Pad-Dry-Cure and resin
Evo Pret RCI-H is applied by the Pad-Dry-Cure method.

Pad-Dry-Cure method references to the Padding, Drying and
Curing. Pad-Dry-Cure method is a type of wet processing.
Padding is the process to apply the finishing chemical to
the fabric by pressure of rollers. The wet pick-up
associated with the conventional padding in mill
situation is ranged from 60% to 100%.
During the padding
process, the fabric has been padded through the liquor

and then squeezed through the rollers of the padder.
Through padding, the liquor is not only on the surface
fabric of the fabric, but also in the capillary regions
between fibers and spaces between yarns. Wet pick-up with
low pick-up ratio would result with uneven distribution
of chemical.(Walt, 1986)
31
Therefore, a higher pick-up ratio means more liquor is

applied on the fabric, hence, the fabric is with better
wrinkle performance. However, higher pick-up ratio means
more acid is applied, so the strength of the cotton would
be reduced. Moreover, more pick-up ratio induces more
crosslinking, so the tensile strength would also reduce.
(Shafizadeh, F., 1985) (Bilales, N. M. ,1971) (Hauser,
2004)
Drying is the process to remove the moisture on the resin
treated fabric during the padding process .Fabric is
wetted during the padding process, so the moisture is
needed to remove. The moisture of the wet fabric after
the padding process would affect the outcome of the
curing process by lowering the surface temperature of the
fabric. A higher drying temperature would faster the
evaporation process of the fabric. Therefore, the higher
drying temperature, the lower drying time is needed.
As
high temperature could reduce the strength of the cotton

fiber, the higher the drying temperature would result
32
with the low the tearing strength. (Walt, 1986)

(Sheration Anaheim Hotel Anaheim, 1994)
Curing is the process to place the fabric at high
temperature for allowing the chemical to carry out the
reaction process. Curing is usually used for the fixation
process. The crosslinking of the resin is usually taken
at constant high temperature for minutes. During curing
process, the surface temperature of the fabric is
critical. Meanwhile, air circulation is also a factor
affecting the outcome of the curing. (Walt, 1986)
(Sheration Anaheim Hotel Anaheim, 1994)
Therefore,
longer curing time would induce more reaction of

crosslinking, and the fabric is with better wrinkle
performance. However, longer curing time causes more
damages to the cellulose fiber so the tensile strength
would be reduced. (Shafizadeh, F., 1985) The increases of
crosslinking due to the longer curing time would also
cause reduction of
tensile strength. (Hauser, 2004)
33
2.4.6
Other anti-wrinkle technology
Apart from dimethyloldihydroxyethylene (DMDHEU), there

are still other technologies which are applied for
wrinkle resistant
2.4.6.1
Urea-formaldehyde (U/F)
Ureaformaldehyde (U/F) products are consisted water

solutions of urea and formaldehyde. Its pH value is pH
7.59. N,N'-dimethylol urea (DMU) is one of the modified
U/F products . It is modified by additional reaction at
pH 89 with methanol to form the liquid dimethylether of
DMU (dimethoxymethyl urea).
Fig 2-10 Dimethylol urea reactions (Hauser, 2004)
The reactions are equilibrium reactions with significant

34
concentrations of the
starting compounds. However, the equilibria are also the
reasons for the high content of easily released free
formaldehyde in U/F products. Comparatively, the modified
Dimethoxymethyl urea is more stable of then the
unmodified one. The reactivity of the unmodified N,N'dimethylol urea
is high. Therefore, unmodified U/F
finishing baths must be used within a few hours. The

fabric with U/F finishing is stiff and firm.
Moreover, the U/F finishing provides a better elastic
resilience than other finishing. (Hauser, 2004)
(Sharpe
G, 2003)
2.4.6.2
Melamine-formaldehyde (M/F)
Melamineformaldehyde (M/F) products contain three to six

reactive
N-methylol groups connected with one melamine ring. This
results with a higher degree of crosslinking and
better
wash fastness for the finishing. The synthesis is quite

35
similar to the U/F products, providing tri- to

hexamethylol melamine (TMM,
HMM) and their methyl ethers (tri- or hexamethoxymethyl
melamine)
Fig 2-11 Melamine-formaldehyde reactions (Hauser, 2004)
TMM is more preferable for the easy-care finishing. It

36
is often as a component of
a product mixture which gives a better permanence for
the performance. Moreover, it is used for permanent
chintz (glazing, embossing, Schreinering) of cellulosic.
HMM is found with additional uses in pigment binders.
(Hauser, 2004) (Harriet, 1997) (Kadolph, 1998)
2.4.6.3
N, N-Dimethyl- 4,5-dihydroxyethylene urea
(DMeDHEU)
N,N'-Dimethyl- 4,5-dihydroxyethylene urea (DMeDHEU) is
different from DMDHEU. DMeDHEU does not contain
formaldehyde. It is formaldehyde free product.
It is
the product of the relatively expensive N,N'-dimethyl

urea and gloxal. It can also be referred to as DMUG
(dimethylurea glyoxalate) or DHDMI, which is
derived
from the name of dihydroxy dimethyl-2-imidazolidinone.

(Hauser, 2004)
37
Fig 2-12
Synthesis of DMeDHEU (Hauser, 2004)
Similar to DMDHEU, DMeDHEU can be modified by reacting

with alcohols such as methanol, diethylene glycol or 1,6hexanediol to ether derivatives. Similar to DMeDHEU
provide cellulose fiber with anti-wrinkle property by
crosslinking reaction with cellulose.
Fig 2-13
Crosslinking of cellulose with DMeDHEU

(Hauser, 2004)
38
However, the two hydroxyl groups in the 4,5-position of

DMeDHEU are less reactive than the N,N'-methylol groups
of DMDHEU. Therefore,stronger catalysts or relatively
harsher reaction conditions are needed to induce
successful crosslinking. On the other hand, DMeDHEU costs
about twice more of
DMDHEU. Meanwhile, in order to
achieve a comparable easy-care and durable press effect

to DMDHEU, nearly twice of the
amount of DMeDHEU is
needed. (Geubtner M, 1990) This poor cost to performance

ratio is one reason for the small market share of
this
formaldehyde-free finish. The other reason is that a

completely formaldehyde-free finishing is notcommercially
important. It is because there is the advent of the ultra
low formaldehyde products. Yet, a 1:1 mixture of DMDHEU
and DMeDHEU is popular because of its reduced
formaldehyde levels with only slightly inferior physical
properties at an acceptable cost. (Hauser, 2004) (Sharpe
G, 2003)
39
2.4.6.4
1,2,3,4-Butantetracarboxylic acid (BTCA)
1,2,3,4-Butanetetracarboxylic acid (BTCA) is an

alternative product for a formaldehyde-free crease
resistant finish.
The activation mechanism of BTCA and the reaction with
cellulose are shown in Fig 2-14
Fig 2-14 The activation mechanism of BTCA (Hauser, 2004)
Fig 2-15 Crosslinking of cellulose with BTCA

(Hauser, 2004)
40
Novel cellulosic crosslinking agents with interesting

properties are gained by molecular incorporation of the
phosphorus catalyst in the BTCA structure. BTCA gives
rise to good crease recovery. However, it is with limited
laundering durability because of the hydrolysis property
of the ester bonds to cellulose. The
BTCA is relatively more expensive, even more expensive
than the cost of DMeDHEU. In addition, the reactions of
this chemical with cellulose require large amounts of
sodium hypophosphite as a catalyst. Sodium hypophosphite
is expensive, and the reducing agent discolors certain
dyestuffs, especially some reactive and sulfur dyes.
The
hazardous effect of phosphorus containing catalyst and

the loss of mechanical strength loss due to the treatment
with polycarboxylic acid are the side effect of the BTCA.
(Hauser, 2004) (Lam, 2011)
41
2.5
Conclusion
In this chapter, the physical and chemical properties of

cotton material have been focused. The properties of
cotton play a key role in the wrinkle performance.
Meanwhile, the background knowledge of light weight plain
woven fabric has been discussed and its structure also
contributes to its wrinkle performance. The last but not
the least, the knowledge about wrinkle formation and the
resin treatment are obtained for the construction of the
study on of resin finishing on wrinkle on light weight
100% cotton plain fabric under different conditions.
42
Chapter 3
3.1
Methodology and Experiment
Introduction
In this chapter, the experiments applied on the light

weight 100% cotton plain woven fabric would be described.
The apparatus and material used would be discussed.
Preparation of the test specimens would be shown and
details of the testing would be explained.
3.2
Fabric specification
The light weight 100% cotton plain woven fabric which was
used for the resin treatment was with the following
specifications.
Table 3-1 Fabric specification
Fabric
specification
Fiber content
Fabric structure
Fabric weight
Yarn count
Fabric density
Warp density
Weft density
Fabric to be
studied
100 % Cotton
fabric
Plain weave
125.3 g/m
13 tex
140 yarns per
inch
76 yarns per inch
43
3.3
Parameter of experiment
The cotton fabric was treated on the listed parameter to

evaluate the effect of the resin and the treating
conditions towards the performances and the properties of
the fabric.
Table 3-2 Treatment parameter
Perimeter
Concentration of the Evo
Pret RCI-H
Liquor pick-up:
Drying temperature:
Curing temperature:
3.4
30g/L
45g/L
60g/L
60%
70%
80%
110
120
2 mins
2.5 mins
3 mins
Application on fabric resin treatment
3.4.1
Preparation for Resin
There are three recipes for preparing the resin chemicals.

They are made in different resin concentration level.
Meanwhile, the 60% acetic acid was used for controlling
the pH value.
44
Table 3-3 Resin chemical recipe

Recipe
1
2
3.4.2
Evo Pret RCI-H
30g/L
45g/L
60g/L
Acetic acid
60%
1.0g/L
1.0g/L
1.0g/L
Padding
Padding is the process to apply the finishing chemical to

the fabric. Fabrics are passed between the padding
rollers during the padding process. Through the pressure
applied by the two padding rollers, the chemical is able
to go inside to the fabric. It is a common method to
apply finishing to the fabric. Padding not only padded
the chemical inside the fabric, but also controlled the
pick-up ratio of the fabric.
For this project, Rapid Horizontal Padder was used. The
following some information about padding for this project.
Table 3-4 Summary for the using of the Horizontal

padder
Pick-up %
Speed
Pressure
Padding
(RPM)
time
60%
5
2
2
70%
80%
5
1
5
0.8
RPM: revolutions per minute
2
2
45
Fig3-1 Horizontal padder
3.4.3
Drying
Drying is the process to remove the moisture on the resin

treated fabric. It is because for the process to preparer
the resin chemical, water is added for solving the resin.
However, as long as the resin was padded on the fabric,
the water is no longer needed. The moisture of the wet
specimen after the padding process would affect the
outcome of the curing process afterward. Therefore, it is
needed to remove the moisture existing on the fabric to
46
prepare it for the curing process.

For the drying process, two temperatures (110 and 120)
were used.
Fig3-2 Drying oven
3.4.4
Curing
Curing is the process to place the fabric at high

temperature for allowing the chemical to carry out the
reaction process. For this study, the curing process is
the process for the resin chemical to carry out the
crosslinking reaction. The resin would crosslink with the
47
cellulose of the cotton fiber at an elevated temperature.

For the curing process of this study, the curing
temperature is 150 and the curing time was 2 min, 2.5
min and 3 min.
Fig3-3 Curing Machine
3.5
Standard Testing and Measurement
3.5.1
Wrinkle Recovery of Woven Fabrics: Recovery
Angle (AATCC 66)
3.5.1.1
Introduction
48
AATCC Test Method 66 Wrinkle Recovery of Woven Fabrics:

Recovery Angle was the standard to determine the wrinkle
recovery of the fabric. It would be applied on woven
fabric which is made from any fiber or combination of
fibers. In this study, option 2 is chosen for conducting
the test.
3.5.1.2
Principle
Wrinkle was formed by folding and compressing the

test specimens under controlled conditions for a
prescribed period of time. The test specimens were then
suspended in a test instrument for a prescribed recovery
period. Finally, the recovery angle was recorded.
3.5.1.3
Wrinkle Recovery Tester and accessories (for option

2)
Disk and protractor with clamp mounted to the disk
Specimen holder with two superimposed stainless
49
steel leave (0.160.01mm thick, fastened at one end and

have the top leave shoter than the bottom leaf)
Plastic press (consist of two superimposed leaves
95x 20 mm fastened at one end)
Weight (500g 5g )
Clocked accurate to 1 s
Fig3-4 Apparatus for AATCC 66
3.5.1.4
Sample Preparation
12 test specimens were required for the test. Their size

were 40x 15 mm. 6 of them are with their long edge
parallel to the warp direction and 6 of them were with
their long edge parallel to the weft direction. Samples
were required to cut from different location with
different set of the warp or weft yarns. Markings were
50
made on the face of the test specimens. The test

specimens were required to place under the Standards
conditions room at 21 C 1 C and 65 2% RH for 24
hours before the testing. During the conditioning,
specimens were needed to lay flat. Careful handling was
required to avoid distorting the specimens.
3.5.1.5
Procedure
Specimen was placed between the leaves of the metal

holder with one end aligned under the 18 mm mark, leaving
one free end of the test specimen on the long stainless
steel leave. The free end of the test specimen was folded
1.5mm away along the edge of the short stainless steel
leave. Then the holder with the folded test specimen was
inserted into the plastic press. The weight was then
applied on the press-holder on a flat surface for 5 min
5s. After the 5 min of weighting, weight and the plastic
press were needed to remove gently. The metal holder with
the test specimen with one free end folded was inserted
51
on the clip mounted on the face of the recorder device.

The free hanging leg of the specimen was aligned with the
vertical guide line to indicate the recovery angle. For
the 5 min recovery period, it was needed to keep on
adjusting the recorder to eliminate the gravitational
effect by ensuring the free hanging leg of the specimen
aligning vertically with the guide line.
3.5.1.6
Evaluation
After the recovery period, the recovery angle was

recorded. There were totally 4 groups of three specimens
were recorded for a completely test. They were warp
folded face to face, warp folded back to back, weft
folded face to face and weft folded back to back.
3.5.2
Wrinkle Recovery of Fabrics: Appearance Method
(AATCC 128)
3.5.2.1
Introduction
52
Test Method 128 Wrinkle Recovery of Fabrics: Appearance

Method was the standard to evaluate the smoothness
appearance of the textile surface after induced wrinkling.
It could be applied on fabrics at original stated,
unwashed stated and after home laundering.
3.5.2.2
Principle
Wrinkle was formed on the test specimen under standard

atmosphere condition by a standard wrinkling device with
predetermined load for a prescribed period of time. The
specimens were then placed in a standard condition for a
prescribed period of time for reconditioning. Finally,
the specimens were evaluated by comparing with the 3dimensional reference standards.
3.5.2.3
AATCC Wrinkle Tester

AATCC Wrinkle Tester was used to hold and to apply force
to the test specimen for wrinkling. The total loading for
53
forming the wrinkle was 3500g.

AATCC 3-Dimensional Wrinkle Recovery Replicas
AATCC 3-Dimensional Wrinkle Recovery Replicas were used
to compare and evaluated the appearance of the test
specimen.
Standards conditions room at 21 C 1 C and 65 2% RH.
Fig3-5 AATCC Wrinkle Tester
3.5.2.4
Sample Preparation
3 test specimens were required for this test. Their size

is 15 x 28cm with the long dimension running with the
warp direction.
54
3.5.2.5
Experimental Procedure
Top flange of the wrinkle tester was held in top position

with locking pin. The test specimen was wrapped by the
upper and lower flanges with the long edges on the tester
and had its facing outwards. The long edge was held on
the upper and lower flanges by the steel springs and
clamps provided. The locking pin was then removed and
allowing the top flange to lower gently for placing the
loading weight on the test specimen to form wrinkle. The
time duration for applying the weight on the specimen was
20 minutes. After 20 mins, the weight was removed from
the top flange. The top flange was raised and all the
springs and clamps would be removed. The test specimen
was taken away from the tester carefully for preventing
the distortion of the induced wrinkle. The test specimens
were required to place under standard condition for 24
hours before the evaluation and hang the specimen
vertically with the long direction for reconditioning.
55
3.5.2.6
Evaluation
Evaluation was taken after 24 hours removed from the

tester. The evaluations were taken place at a darken room
with the standard lighting equipment for viewing test
specimen according to the replicas. It is recommended
that the observer to stand 4 fts away from the viewing
board which had the test specimens mounted on for a more
objective observation. It is because the normal variation
of the height of the observer may affect the rating of
the specimens if the observer is too close to the
specimens.
3.5.3
Smoothness Appearance of Fabrics after Repeated
Home Laundering (AATCC 124)
3.5.3.1
Introduction
AATCC Test Standard 124 Smoothness Appearance of Fabrics

after Repeated Home Laundering was the standard used to
evaluate the smoothness appearance of the flat fabric
test specimens after repeated home laundering
56
3.5.3.2
Principle
The smoothness of the test specimens were evaluated

by rating the specimens with comparison with the
appropriate reference standards after standard home
laundering practices.
3.5.3.3
Automatic washing machine

Automatic tumble dryer
1993 AATCC Standard Reference Detergent powder
Ballast of 92x 92 3cm hemmed pieces of the bleached
cotton sheeting
Lighting and evaluation area in a darkened room with
standard lighting arrangement
Standard AATCC Three-Dimensional Smoothness Appearance
Replicas sets of six
57
3.5.3.4
Sample Preparation
Three test specimens of 38 x 38 cm fabric were cut

parallel to the fabric length were required by the
testing. Test Specimens were required to have the warp
direction marked and the edges overclocked. Each specimen
was required to contain different groups of warp and weft
yarns.
3.5.3.5
Procedure
For this testing, the machine washing was in durable

press mode and then tumble drought for 30 min. The
specimen was washed and drought for five complete cycles.
58
3.5.4
Determination of tear force using ballistic
pendulum method (Elmendorf) (BS EN ISO 13937-1)
3.5.4.1
Introduction
Standard Testing BS EN ISO 13937-1, Determination of tear

force using ballistic pendulum method was known as the
Elmendorf method. It was the standard method for
describing the tear force needed to generate a single-rip
tear for a defined length of cutting when a sudden force
was applied. The testing standard is applicable on woven
textile fabrics.
.
3.5.4.2
Principle
By measuring the tearing work done on a fixed distance on

a fabric, the force required was recorded. The tearing
work was done on a slit cut in a fabric and tearing was
to continue the cutting of the fabric. The tearing force
was measured when the moving jaw of the pendulum was
59
released and moved to tear the test specimen completely.
3.5.4.3
Pendulum testing machine

A mechanical or electronic device for recording the tear
force
Fig 3-7 Pendulum testing machine with electronic device
Fig 3-8 Weight used for the pendulum testing machine for
the cotton specimens
60
3.5.4.4
Sample Preparation
For each sample, two sets of specimens were required. One

set was in the warp direction and other set in weft
direction. For each set of specimen, at least 5 test
specimens were required. Specimens were required to cut
in to a specified shape and had a slit on the middle of
the base of the fabric.
3.5.4.5
Procedure
Specimen was mounted on the pendulum testing machine and

a slit was made. The pendulum was released and the
reading from the digital display was taken.
3.5.5
Determination of tear force of trouser-shaped
test specimens (Single tear method) (BS EN ISO 13937-2)
3.5.5.1
Introduction
Standard Testing BS EN ISO 13937-2, Determination of

61
tear force of trouser-shaped test specimens (Single tear

method) was known as trouser test. It is the standard
method for describing the tear force needed to continues
a previously cut single tear when the force was applied
to tear the fabric parallel to the cut. The test is
applicable to woven fabric. For knitted fabric and highly
elastic woven fabric, the test is not applicable.
3.5.5.2
Principle
By tearing the specimen in the direction of the previous

cut, the force required to tear the specimen was recorded
by a tensile testing machine and calculated the force
peaks of the autographic trace.
3.5.5.3
Constant-rate-of-extension (CRE) testing machine

Clamping device
Computer for running the software used to record and
calculate the tearing force
62
Fig 3-9 Constant-rate-of-extension (CRE) testing machine
3.5.5.4
Sample Preparation
For each sample, two sets of specimens were required. One

63
set was in the warp direction and other set in weft

direction. For each set of specimen, at least 5 test
specimens were required. Specimens were required to cut
in to a specified shape with 20 cm long and 5cm wide. A
longitudinal slit with 10cm long was cut on the middle of
the width. A mark was made the 2.5 cm away from the other
width for indicating the end of tear.
3.5.5.5
Procedure
The test specimen was clamped on the two jaws with one
leg in each jaw. The cut was located along the
centerlines of the jaws. The software was started to move
the machine to tear the specimen and record and calculate
the result.
3.5.6
Laundering of Woven and Knitted Fabrics Except Wool

(AATCC 96)
3.5.6.1
Introduction
64
AATCC Test Standard 96, Dimensional Changes in Commercial

Laundering of Woven and Knitted Fabrics Except Wool, was
the testing standard for deterring the dimensional
changes for fabric which has been subjected by commercial
laundering. The standard is applicable on woven and
knitted fabric. However, for fabric which is made of wool
fiber, this test is not applicable.
3.5.6.2
Principle
The test specimens were laundering by the typical

commercial laundering procedures. The dimensional change
was found by measuring the making distances on the fabric.
3.5.6.3
Automatic washing machine

Automatic tumble dryer
Template for making bench on the specimens
Textile marker
65
3.5.6.4
Sample Preparation
Size and preparation was varied depending by the type of

fabric tested. For one testing, 3 test specimens of 40 x
40 cm fabric was cut parallel to the fabric length were
prepared. The bench marks were made with 25 cm distance.
3.5.6.5
Procedure
For this testing, the machine washing were in durable

press mode and then tumble drying for 30 min. The
specimens were washed and dry for five complete cycles.
66
Chapter 4
4.1
Wrinkle Properties of Cotton Fabric
AATCC Test Method 66 Wrinkle Recovery of Woven
Fabrics: Recovery Angle
4.1.1
Introduction
Wrinkle recovery is the property of a fabric enabling it

to recover from the folding deformation (AATCC). It is an
important property for shirting fabric as normally, a
shirt would come over different types of folding in
packaging and domestic usage. A shirting fabric with good
wrinkle recovery is always preferable. Therefore, wrinkle
recovery is a key characteristic for easy care garment.
AATCC Test Method 66 Wrinkle Recovery of Woven Fabrics:
Recovery Angle was the standard to determine the wrinkle
recovery of the fabric.
4.1.2
Result
The result for the AATCC Test Method 66 was generated

67
according to the standard method stated on the Chapter 3.

Methodology. The average recovery angle for the each
group of specimens were calculated according to the warp
folded face to face, warp folded back to back, weft
folded face to face and weft folded back to back. For
analyzing the result, all warp reading and weft reading
were averaged separately. Meanwhile, for more summarized
trends and relationships to be shown, all the warp
reading and weft reading were averaged for this part.

specimens
Control specimen
Resin treated specimens
Recovery angle: 82.3
Recovery angle: 86 to
140
Comparing with the control fabric, all sample specimens

which had been treated by the resin treatment in any
parameter had a significance improvement in the recovery
angle in the Standard Testing. It was shown that the
resin treatment within all the listed parameters could
68
improve the wrinkle recovery performance on the light

weight 100% cotton plain fabric being studied in this
project.
4.1.3
Discussion
Effect of Resin Concentration

140.0
Recovery angle
120.0
100.0
80.0
Resin 30
60.0
Resin 45
40.0
Resin 60
20.0
0.0
60
60
60
2.5
70
70
70
80
80
80
2
2.5
3
2
Pick up % , Curing Time
2.5

recovery angle
From the above graph (Fig 4-1), the changes of the angle
recovery due to the change of resin concentration were
shown.
It was shown that with the same drying
temperature, curing time and pick-up ratio, the recovery

69
angle would increase when the resin concentration level

increased. There was a trend that for a higher resin
concentration level, the resin treated specimens would
have a high degree of angle recovery with the other
perimeters constant. It was shown that the factor, resin
concentration level, would improve the wrinkle recovery
performance of the light weight 100% cotton plain fabric
which is being studied in this project. Similar results
were also shown on other treated fabrics.
Effect of Pick-up Ratio

140.0
Recovery angle
120.0
100.0
80.0
Pick up 60%
60.0
Pick up 70%
40.0
Pick up 80%
20.0
0.0
2
2.5
30
30
2.5
2.5
30 45 45 45 60 60
Curing Time, Resin concentation
60

wrinkle recovery angle
70
recovery due to the change of pick-up ratio were shown.
It was shown that with the same drying temperature,
curing time and resin concentration level, the recovery
angle would increase when pick-up ratio increased.
However, for some specimens, there were exceptional
cases. For example, for specimens which had been cured
for 2 min and with 30g/L resin concentration, the average
recovery angle would slightly decrease when the pick-up
ratio changes from 70% to 80%. Yet, when comparing with
the specimens with 60% pick-up ratio, the recovery angles
of 70% and 80% were still higher.
There was a general trend that for a higher pick-up ratio,
the resin treated specimens would have a high degree of
angle recovery with the other perimeters constant. It
shown that the factor, pick-up ratio, would improve the
wrinkle recovery performance of the light weight 100%
cotton plain fabric which was being studied in this
project.
Similar results were also shown on other

71
treated fabrics.
Effect of Curing Time

140.0
120.0
REcovery angle
100.0
80.0
2 min
60.0
2.5 min
3 min
40.0
20.0
0.0
30
45
60
45
60
30
45
60
30
Resin level

recovery angle
recovery due to the change of curing time were shown.
It was shown that with the same drying temperature, resin
concentration level and pick-up ratio, the recovery angle
would increase when the curing time increased in general.
There was a general trend that for a longer curing time,
72
the resin treated specimens would have a high degree of

angle recovery with the other perimeters constant. The
trend was a lot more remarkable when directly compared
the data of 2 min curing time with 3 min curing time.
It shown that the factor, curing time, would improve the
wrinkle recovery performance of the light weight 100%
project.
treated fabrics.
Effect of Drying Temperature

140.0
120.0
Recovery angle
100.0
80.0
110C
60.0
120C
40.0
20.0
0.0
30
60
45
60
60
60
30
70
45
Pick up % , Curing Time

recovery angle
73
recovery due to the change of drying temperature were
shown.
It was shown that with the same pick-up ratio,
resin concentration level and curing time, the recovery

angle would increase when the curing time increased in
general.
There was a general trend that for a high drying
temperature, the resin treated specimens would have a
high degree of angle recovery with the other perimeters
constant.
It shown that the factor, drying temperature, would
improve the wrinkle recovery performance of the light
weight 100% cotton plain fabric which was being studied
in this project.
Similar results were also shown on
other treated fabrics.
4.1.4
Conclusion
In the Stand Testing AATCC Test Method 66 Wrinkle

Recovery of Woven Fabrics: Recovery Angle, it could be
74
shown that with higher resin level, higher pick-up ratio,

higher drying temperature and longer curing time, the
specimens would have better performance in wrinkle
recovery angle.
4.2 AATCC Test Method 128 Wrinkle Recovery of Fabrics:

Appearance Method
4.2.1
Introduction
Smoothness appearance is the visual impression of

planarity of a fabric. The smoothness appearance would be
obtained by comparing with the sets of reference
standards.
AATCC Test Method 128 Wrinkle Recovery of
Fabrics: Appearance Method was the standard for

evaluating the smoothness appearance of the textile
surface after induced wrinkling formed by a standard
wrinkling device under standard atmosphere condition.
The level of the wrinkle recovery ability was graded in
this test. For easy care garment, the performance of
75
smoothness appearance is important.
The smoothness
appearance is an important property for shirting fabric

as a shirt would come over different types and forms of
load compressions by any means.
4.2.2
Result
Methodology. The grading was based on the 3-dimensinal
reference standards.
For each set for specimen, there
were 3 specimens and 3 judgments were made. For reporting

the result, the judgments were averaged to the nearest
tenth of a rating.

specimens
Control specimen
Grade 1
Grade 2 to Grade 3
76

parameter had a significance improvement in the
smoothness appearance in the Standard Testing. It was
shown that the resin treatment within all the listed
parameters has significant improvement in the smoothness
appearance performance on the light weight 100% cotton
plain fabric being studied in this project.
4.2.3
Discussion

4.0
3.5
3.0
Grade
2.5
2.0
Resin 30
1.5
Resin 45
1.0
Resin 60
0.5
0.0
60
60
60
2.5
70
70
70
80
80
80
2
2.5
3
2
Pick up %, curing time
2.5

recovery grading (wrinkle recovery rating 5 is the best
77
From the above graph (Fig 4-5), the difference of

the smoothness appearance grading due to the change of
resin concentration were shown.
It was shown that with
the same drying temperature, curing time and pick-up

ratio, the smoothness appearance would be better when the
resin concentration level increase.
There was a trend that for a higher resin concentration
level, the resin treated specimens would have a better
performance in the wrinkle recovery on the fabric surface
with the other perimeters constant. It shown that the
factor, resin level, would improve the wrinkle recovery
performance of the surface of light weight 100% cotton
plain fabric which is being studied in this project.
Similar results were also shown on other treated fabrics.
78

3.0
2.5
Grade
2.0
1.5
Pick up 60%
Pick up 70%
1.0
Pick up 80%
0.5
0.0
2
2.5
30
30
30
2.5
2.5
45
45
45
60
Curing time, resin level
60
60

From the above graph (Fig 4-6), the difference of the

smoothness appearance grading due to the change of pickup ratio were shown.
It was shown that with the same
drying temperature, curing time and resin concentration

level, the smoothness appearance would be better when
pick-up ratio increases.
the resin treated specimens would have a better
79
smoothness appearance with the other perimeters constant.

It shown that the factor, pick-up ratio, would improve
the wrinkle recovery performance of the surface of the
light weight 100% cotton plain fabric which is being
studied in this project Similar results were also shown
on other treated fabrics.
However, for some specimens, there were exceptional cases.
For example, for the specimens which had 60g/L resin
concentration level, specimens with 70% pick-up would
have lower grading then these with 60% pick-up.
However,
the average smoothness appearance was slightly increased

when the pick-up ratio changes from 60% to 80%. The trend
could still be shown. Similar results were also shown on
other treated fabrics.
80

4.0
3.5
3.0
Grade
2.5
2 min
2.0
2.5 min
1.5
3 min
1.0
0.5
0.0
60
60
60
70
70
70
80
80
80
pick up ratio

From the above graph (Fig 4-7), the differences of the

smoothness appearance due to the change of curing time
were shown.
temperature, pick-up ratio and resin concentration level,

the wrinkle recovery grading would increase or discuses
when curing time increases.
There was no trend showing that for a longer curing time,
81
the resin treated specimens would have a better or

inversed performance in wrinkle recovery grading with the
other perimeters constant.
It shown that the factor, curing time, would have limited
to rare effect on the wrinkle recovery of the light
weight 100% cotton plain fabric which is being studied in
this project.
treated fabrics.

4.0
3.5
3.0
Grade
2.5
2.0
1.5
110C
120C
1.0
0.5
0.0
60
70
80
60
70
80
60
70
80
2.5
2.5
2.5
60
60
60
60
60
60
60
60
pick up ratio, curing time, resin level
60

82

From the above graph (Fig 4-8), the changes of the
smoothness due to the change of drying temperature were
shown.
It was shown that with the same resin
concentration level, pick-up ratio and curing time, there

were slightly increase on the grading on the smoothness
appearance when the drying time increases in general.
It
was because that most of the specimens were closely

graded and the numerical difference between the grading
was close. Yet, the trend was still to be shown.
There was a general trend that for a higher drying
better performance on the smoothness appearance with the
other perimeters constant in general. It could show that
the factor, drying temperature, would improve the
smoothness appearance on of the light weight 100% cotton
plain fabric which was being studied in this project.
83
4.2.4
Conclusion
It is because of the similar performance and closely

graded result (mostly about Grade2 to Grade3), the
contrasts of result based on the change of the perimeter
was not so strong. Therefore, some effects of the
changing from the treated perimeter were not as
remarkable as the other testing. However, some trend
could still be shown.
In the AATCC Test Method 128 Wrinkle Recovery of Fabrics:
Appearance Method, it could be shown that with higher
resin level, higher pick-up ratio and higher drying
temperature the specimens would have better performance
in wrinkle recovery grading. It was also shown that the
effect of curing time on affecting the wrinkle recovery
grading is limited. It may be because of that the fabric
being studied in this project is thin and light in weight.
2 min is long enough for the resin to carry out
crosslinking reaction at the high curing temperature.
Saturation of the reaction is nearly reached for the 2
84
min curing time. Therefore, the longer of curing time may

not encourage more crosslinking reaction to improve the
wrinkle recovery grading.
4.3
AATCC Test Standard 124 Smoothness Appearance of
Fabrics after Repeated Home Laundering
4.3.1
Introduction
Smoothness appearance after home laundering of a fabric

is a key characteristic for easy care garment. For a
fabric which has come under repeated laundering,
laundering creases would be formed. Laundering crease is
the unintended result after laundering. It is the folds
and lines running without any specified direction on a
washed fabric.
A shirting fabric with good smoothness
appearance after home laundering is always preferable.

AATCC Test Standard 124 Smoothness Appearance of Fabrics
after Repeated Home Laundering was the standard to
evaluate the smoothness appearance after repeated home
85
laundering for flat fabric specimens.
4.3.2
Result
Methodology.
Results were taken after the 1st cycle, 3rd
cycle and 5th cycle. For reporting the result, the grading
of each set of sample was averaged for the same washing
cycle.

specimens
Control specimen
Grade 1
Grade 2 to Grade 3.5

parameter have a significance improvement in the
performance in the Standard Testing. It was shown that
the resin treatment within all the listed parameters
could improve the smoothness appearance after repeated
86
home laundering on the light weight 100% cotton plain

fabric being studied in this project.
4.3.3
Discussion
Effect of Repeated Home Laundering

3.5
3.0
Grade
2.5
2.0
1st
1.5
3rd
1.0
5th
0.5
0.0
60
60
60
2.5
70
70
70
2
2.5
3
Pick up % ,Curing time
80
80
80
2.5
Fig 4-9 Relationship between the number of

laundering and wrinkle recovery grading (wrinkle recovery
grade 5 is the best while 1 is the worst)
From the above graph (Fig 4-9), the grading of smoothness

appearance of after the 1st, 3rd and 5th washing and drying
cycles were shown.
It was shown that with the same
drying temperature, pick-up ratio, curing time and resin

87
concentration level, the grading of smoothness appearance

would decrease when the number of washing increased.
There was a trend that for resin treated specimens, the
more times of washing and drying the specimens withstand,
the specimens would have a lower grading on smoothness
appearance with the other perimeters constant.
On the
after word, the anti-wrinkle effect of the resin would

retread on certain degree after repeated laundering.
It shown that the factor, repeated home laundering, would
negatively affect smoothness appearance
performance of
the light weight 100% cotton plain fabric which is being

studied in this project.
Similar results were also shown
88

3.5
3.0
Grade
2.5
2.0
Resin 30
1.5
Resin 45
Resin 60
1.0
0.5
0.0
60
60
60
2.5
70
70
70
80
80
80
2
2.5
3
2
Pick up %, Curing time
2.5
Fig 4-10 Relationship between resin level and


smoothness appearance due to the changes of resin
concentration were shown. It was shown that with the same
drying temperature, curing time, pick-up ratio and number
of washing, the smoothness appearance would improve when
the resin concentration level increased.
89

smoothness appearance performance with the other
perimeters constant.
It shown that the factor, resin level, would improve the
smoothness appearance of the light weight 100% cotton

3.5
3.0
Grade
2.5
2.0
Pick up 60%
1.5
Pick up 70%
1.0
Pick up 80%
0.5
0.0
2
2.5
30
30
2.5
2.5
30
45
45
45
60
60
Curing time, Resin concentration
60

90

smoothness appearance due to the change of pick-up ratio
were shown.
temperature, curing time and resin concentration level,

the smoothness appearance would improve when pick-up
ratio increased.
the resin treated specimens would have a higher grading
on smoothness appearance with the other perimeters
constant.
It shown that the factor, pick-up ratio, would improve
the smoothness appearance performance of the light weight
100% cotton plain fabric which is being studied in this
project.
treated fabrics.
91

3.5
3.0
Grade
2.5
2.0
2 min
1.5
2.5 min
3 min
1.0
0.5
0.0
30
45
60
30
45
60
30
45
60
Resin level
Fig 4-12 Relationship between curing time and


smoothness appearance due to the change of curing time
are shown.
temperature, pick-up ratio and resin concentration level,

the wrinkle recovery grading would increase discuses or
unchanged when curing time increased.
92
inversed performance in smoothness appearance grading

with the other perimeters constant. It shown that the
factor, curing time, would have limited to rare effect on
affecting the smoothness appearance grading after
repeated home laundering of the light weight 100% cotton

3.5
3.0
Grade
2.5
2.0
1.5
110C
120C
1.0
0.5
0.0
60
70
80
60
70
80
60
70
80
2.5
2.5
2.5
3
Pick up % , curing time

93
From the above graph (Fig 4-13), the smoothness

appearance performance of the resin treated specimens
were shown according to the drying temperature they had
treated.
It was shown that generally, the specimens which hadbeen
treated with higher drying temperature would have better
smoothness appearance performance.
Meanwhile, the
specimens which had been treated with higher drying

temperature would have more stable grading in the listed
perimeter.
It shown that the factor, drying temperature, would not
only improve the smoothness appearance, but also
stabilized the performance of the light weight 100%
cotton plain fabric which is being studied in this
project.
treated fabrics.
4.3.4
Conclusion
The result and trend of AATCC Test Standard 124

94
Smoothness Appearance of Fabrics after Repeated Home

Laundering was similar to the result of AATCC Test Method
128. However, the trends related to the change of the
perimeters were not remarkable with great contract. It
was because the numerical difference between the grading
was not large and the performances were closely graded
(mostly about Grade2 to Grade3.5), the contrasts of
result based on the change of the perimeter were not so
strong. Therefore, some effects of the changing from the
treated perimeter were not as remarkable as the other
testing. However, some trend could still be shown.
In the AATCC Test Method 124 Smoothness Appearance of
Fabrics after Repeated Home Laundering, it could be shown
that with higher resin level, higher pick-up ratio and
higher drying temperature, the specimens would have
better performance in smoothness appearance grading. It
was also shown that the effect of curing time on
affecting the smoothness appearance was limited. It may
be because of that the fabric being studied in this
95
project was thin and light in weight. 2 min is long

enough for the resin to carry out crosslinking reaction
at the high curing temperature.
96
Chapter 5
5.1
Tearing Properties of Cotton Fabric
Determination of tear force using ballistic pendulum
method (Elmendorf) (BS EN ISO 13937-1)
5.1.1
Introduction
For the resin treated light weight 100% cotton plain

fabric, its strength would be reduced because of the
strong acidic condition, high temperature during the
processing. Even though wrinkle resistance was preferable
for garment, the loss of tearing strength was not welcome.
Therefore, it was of great important to control the loss
of tearing strength due to the resin treatment.
Standard Testing BS EN ISO 13937-1, Determination of tear
force using ballistic pendulum method was the standard
method for describing the tearing strength of the test
specimens.
97
5.1.2
Result
The result for the Standard Testing BS EN ISO 13937-1 was

generated according to the standard method stated on the
Chapter 3.
Methodology. The tearing resistance for the
each sample of the ten specimens was calculated according

to the warp direction and weft direction. For analyzing
the result, all warp reading and weft reading were
averaged separately.

specimens
Control specimen
Warp: 8.3N
Weft: 6.2N
Warp: 4.3N to 6.8N

Weft: 3.2N to 5.2N

listed parameter have a significance reduction of tearing
resistance in the Standard Testing. It was shown that the
cause the loss of tearing strength on the light weight
98
100% cotton plain fabric being studied in this project.
5.1.3
Discussion
Different between warp and weft
8.5
Resistance (N)
7.5
6.5
Warp
Weft
5.5
4.5
3.5
Fig 5-1 Relationship between warp and weft in

tearing resistance
From the above graph (Fig 5-1), the difference in tearing

resistance between warp and weft direction of the tested
specimens were shown. It was shown that the same drying
temperature, resin concentration, pick-up ratio and
curing time, the warp yarn would have better tearing
99
strength then the weft yarn. This difference would also

be seen on the control specimens. Similar results were
also shown on other treated fabrics.
Therefore, it could conclude that the warp yarn have
better tearing strength then the weft. It was also
confirmed to the other similar testing related to warp
and weft on tearing strength.

7.0
6.0
Resistance (N)
5.0
4.0
110C
3.0
120C
2.0
1.0
0.0
60
70
80
60
70
80
60
70
80
pick up %

tearing resistance
From the above graph (Fig 5-2), the differences in

100
tearing resistance between the specimens which had been

dried at 110 and 120 are shown. It was shown that for
the specimens which had treated by the same resin
concentration, pick-up ratio and curing time, the
specimens dried at 120 would have poor tearing
resistance then the specimens dried at 110.
There was a trend that for a longer higher drying
temperature, the resin treated specimens would have lower
tearing strength with the other perimeters constant.
It shown that the factor, drying temperature, could
lowering the tearing strength of the light weight 100%
project. Similar results were also shown on other treated
fabrics.
101

7.0
6.0
REsistance (N)
5.0
4.0
2 min
3.0
2.5 min
2.0
3 min
1.0
0.0
60
60
60
70
30
45
60
30
70
70
80
45
60
30
pick up %, resin level
80
80
45
60

resistance

tearing resistance due to the change of curing time were
shown.
temperature, resin concentration level and pick-up ratio,

the tearing resistance would decrease when the curing
time increases.
There was a trend that for a longer curing time, the
resin treated specimens would have lower tearing strength
102
with the other perimeters constant. The trend would be a

lot more remarkable when directly compare the data of 2
min curing time with 3 min curing time.
It shown that the factor, curing time, could cause a
decrease in tearing strength of the light weight 100%
project.
treated fabrics.

6.0
Resistance (N)
5.0
4.0
3.0
Resin 30
Resin 45
2.0
Resin 60
1.0
0.0
60
60
60
2.5
70
70
70
80
80
80
2
2.5
3
2
pick up %, curing time
2.5

resistance
103

tearing resistance due to the change of resin
concentration were shown.
It was shown that with the
same drying temperature, curing time and pick-up ratio,

the tearing resistance would decrease when the resin
concentration level increase.
There was a general trend that for a higher resin
have lower tearing strength with the other perimeters
constant.
It shown that the factor, resin level, would lower the
tearing strength of the light weight 100% cotton plain
fabric which is being studied in this project.
Similar
results were also shown on other treated fabrics.
104

6.0
Resistance (N)
5.0
4.0
3.0
Pick up 60%
Pick up 70%
2.0
Pick up 80%
1.0
0.0
2
2.5
30
30
30
2.5
2.5
45
45
45
60
curing time, resin level
60
60

tearing resistance
From the above three graph (Fig 5-5), the change of the
same drying temperature, curing time and resin

concentration level, the tearing resistance would
decrease when the pick-up ratio increase.
the resin treated specimens would have lower tearing
105
strength with the other perimeters constant.

It shown that the factor, pick-up ratio, would lower the
fabric which was being studied in this project.
Similar
5.1.4
Conclusion
In the Stand Testing Determination of tear force using

ballistic pendulum method (Elmendorf ) (BS EN ISO 139371), it could be shown that with higher resin level,
higher pick-up ratio, higher drying temperature and
longer curing time, the specimens would have
poorer
performance in tearing strength. It also shown that resin,

high temperature and longer time stayed in high
temperature could cause degradation on cotton fiber. The
result was confirmed to the prediction in the literature
review related to the performance on tearing strength of
cotton related to the effect of temperature, resin, and
pH value.
106
5.2
Determination of tear force of trouser-shaped test
specimens (Single tear method) (BS EN ISO 13937-2)
5.2.1
Introduction
For the resin treated light weight 100% cotton plain

fabric, its strength would be reduced because of the
strong acidic condition, high temperature during the
processing. Even though wrinkle resistance is preferable
for garment, the loss of tearing strength is a problem.
Therefore, it is important to control the keep the
tearing strength in an acceptable range after the resin
treatment.
Standard Testing BS EN ISO 13937-2,
Determination of tear force of trouser-shaped test

specimens is the standard method for describing the
tearing strength of the test specimens.
5.2.2
Result
The result for the Standard Testing BS EN ISO 13937-2 was

107
generated according to the standard method stated on the

Charter 3.
Methodology.
The tearing resistance for the each sample of the ten

specimens was recorded and calculated by the software
according to the warp direction and weft direction. The
resistances were calculated based on the resistance on
every single yarn by the software. For analyzing the
result, all warp reading and weft reading were averaged
separately.

specimens
Control specimen
Warp: 7.68N
Weft: 5.91N
Warp: 3.69N to 6.35N

Weft: 2.77N to 4.92

listed parameter had a significance reduction of tearing
resistance in the Standard Testing. It was shown that the
108
cause the loss of tearing strength on the light weight

100% cotton plain fabric being studied in this project.
5.2.3
Discussion
Different between warp and weft

9.00
8.00
7.00
Resistance (N)
6.00
5.00
Warp
4.00
Weft
3.00
2.00
1.00
0.00
Fig 5-6 Relationship between warp and weft in

tearing resistance
From the above graph (Fig 5-6), the difference in tearing

resistance between warp and weft direction of the tested
specimens were shown. It was shown that the same drying
temperature, resin concentration, pick-up ratio and
curing time, the warp yarn would have better tearing
109
strength then the weft yarn. This difference would also

be seen on the control specimens. Similar results were
also shown on other treated fabrics.
Therefore, it could conclude that the warp yarn have
better tearing strength then the weft. It was also
confirmed to the other similar testing related to warp
and weft on tearing strength.

6.00
Resistance (N)
5.00
4.00
3.00
110C
2.00
120C
1.00
0.00
2
2.5
60
60
60
2.5
2.5
70
70
70
80
curing time, pick up %
80
80

tearing resistance
From the above graph (Fig 5-7), the differences in

110
tearing resistance between the specimens which have been

dried at 110 and 120 were shown. It was shown that for
the specimens which had treated by the same resin
concentration, pick-up ratio and curing time, generally,
the specimens dried at 120 would have poor tearing
resistance then the specimens dried at 110.
There was a trend that for a longer higher drying
temperature, the resin treated specimens would have lower
tearing strength with the other perimeters constant.
It shown that the factor, drying temperature, could
lowering the tearing strength of the light weight 100%
project.
treated fabrics.
111

6.00
5.00
Resistance (N)
4.00
3.00
2 min
2.5 min
2.00
3 min
1.00
0.00
60
70
80
30
30
30
60
70
80
45
45
45
pick up %, resin level
60
70
80
60
60
60

resistance

tearing resistance due to the change of curing time were
shown.
temperature, resin concentration level and pick-up ratio,

the tearing resistance would decrease when the curing
time increased.
There was a trend that for a longer curing time, the
resin treated specimens would have lower tearing strength
112
with the other perimeters constant. The trend would be a

lot more remarkable when directly compare the data of 2
min curing time with 3 min curing time.
It shown that the factor, curing time, could cause a
decrease in tearing strength of the light weight 100%
project.
treated fabrics.

7.00
6.00
Resistance (N)
5.00
4.00
Resin 30
3.00
Resin 45
2.00
Resin 60
1.00
0.00
2
2.5
60
60
60
2.5
2.5
70
70
70
80
Curing time, pick up %
80
80

resistance
113

same drying temperature, curing time and pick-up ratio,

the tearing resistance would decrease when the resin
concentration level increase.
There was a general trend that for a higher resin
have lower tearing strength with the other perimeters
constant.
It shown that the factor, resin level, would lower the
fabric which was being studied in this project to strain
extent.
114

7.00
6.00
Resistance (N)
5.00
4.00
Resin 30
3.00
Resin 45
2.00
Resin 60
1.00
0.00
2
2.5
60
60
60
2.5
70
70
70
2.5
80
80
80

tearing resistance

same drying temperature, curing time and resin

concentration level, the tearing resistance would
decrease when the pick-up ratio increased.
the resin treated specimens would have lower tearing
115
strength with the other perimeters constant. However,

when comparing with the remarkable difference of the
drying temperature, resin concentration level and curing
time, the effect of pick-up ratio was barely weak.
However, the trend was still able to be shown.
It shown that the factor, pick-up ratio, would lower the
fabric which is being studied in this project.
Similar
5.2.4
Conclusion
The result and trend of Determination of tear force of

trouser-shaped test specimens (Single tear method) (BS EN
ISO 13937-2) is similar and conform
to the result of
Stand Testing Determination of tear force using ballistic

pendulum method (Elmendorf ) (BS EN ISO 13937-1).
In this standard testing, it could be shown that with
higher resin level, higher pick-up ratio, higher drying
temperature and longer curing time, the specimens would
116
have poorer performance in tearing strength. The results

was also confirmed to the expectation in the literature
review in which high temperature, resin, on the duration
of time in high temperature were factors negatively
affect the tearing strength of cotton fabric.
117
Chapter 6
6.1
Dimensional Stability
Dimensional Changes in Commercial Laundering of
Woven and Knitted Fabrics Except Wool (AATCC 96)
6.1.1
Introduction
Dimensional stability is the property for a fabric to

sustain this original dimension after curtain processes.
The dimensional stability could be determined by the
dimensional change.
There are two types of dimensional
changes. They are Growth and Shrinkage.
Growth is the
dimensional change because of the increase in the length

or width of the specimen. Shrinkage is the dimensional
change because of the decrease in the length or width of
the specimen. Standard Testing AATCC 96 is the testing
standard for deterring the dimensional changes for fabric
which has been subjected by laundering the specimen and
measure the changes of length and width.
118
6.1.2
Result

Methodology. The length and width of the three reference
bench marks on each specimen were averaged. The average
length and width three specimens for a set of sample was
then averaged again. For analyzing the result, the
percentage changes in area dimensional change were
calculated for better evaluation. By evaluating the area
dimensional change, both effect of the width direction
and the length direction were evaluated.

specimens
Control specimen
1st: -0.9%
5th: -1.516%
1st: -0.715% to 0.44%

5th: -0.8% to 0.26%

parameter had a significance improvement in the
dimensional stability in the Standard Testing. It was
119
shown that the resin treatment within all the listed

parameters could improve the dimensional stability on the
light weight 100% cotton plain fabric being studied in
this project.
6.1.3
Discussion
Effect of warp and weft

1
% dimensinal change
0.5
0
-0.5
Warp
Weft
-1
-1.5
-2
Fig 6-1 Relationship between warp and weft with %

dimensional change
From the above graph (Fig 6-1), the percentage of

dimensional changes in the warp and weft direction were
shown. It shown that with the same drying temperature,
curing time and pick-up ratio, there is increase in width
120
(weft) and decrease in length (warp).

There was a trend that the warp direction would have a
negative % dimensional changes and the weft direction
would have a positive % dimensional changes. It was shown
that there was Growth effect on the weft direction and
Shrinkage effect on the warp direction.
Significant shrinkage of warp

During the weaving process, the warp yarn was under
tension to be straight. However, for the weft yarn, even
though it was straight when it was inserted, it crimped
when it was beaten up. When wetted, the high tension wrap
yarn would relax and crimp. It is relaxation shrinkage.
The yarns would readjust themselves for this shrinkage.
Therefore, the crimping would shorten the fabric in warp
direction. There was also relaxation shrinkage on the
weft yarn. However, the crimping effect was a lot lesser.
As a result, after the washing, there was a significant
negative % dimensional change in the warp direction.
121
(Kadolph 1998)
Growth
For the weft yarn, the relaxation shrinkage effect
mentioned above was a lot lesser. Therefore, the
reduction in length was not significant. Meanwhile, the
increase in length for the weft direction was because it
was because of the hygral expansion of the cotton fiber.
It is a process in which the fiber swells when moisture
is absorbed. The hygral expansion behavior depends
largely on the magnitude of the weave crimp. The effect
of weave construction on the fabric hygral expansion is
very small at high moisture regains; at low regains,
plain-weave fabrics tend to show slightly higher
expansion than the corresponding twill structures of
similar crimp magnitude. (R.C. Dhingra 1985)
122
Effect of Repeated Laundering

1
0.5
% of Area Change
1st
-0.5
5th
-1
-1.5
-2
Fig 6-2 Relationship between number of laundering

and dimensional change
From the above graph (Fig 6-2), the percentage of changes

of area after 1st laundering and the 5th laundering were
shown.
temperature, curing time and pick-up ratio, there was a

reduction in dimensional changes when the times of
laundering. For specimens which had growth in the 1st
laundering, the degree of growth was reduced, or even
123
became shrinkage. For specimens which had shrinkage in

the 1st laundering, the degree of shrinkage was increased
except the exception cases.
level, the resin treated specimens would have a reduction
in dimensional changes with the other perimeters constant.
It shown that the factor, Repeated laundering, would
cause a
reduction in dimensional changes of the surface
of light weight 100% cotton plain fabric which is being

The result show there is progressive shrinkage of the
fabric. Progressive shrinkage is the shrinkage which
increases with the number of laundering cycle.
124
Effect of Resin Concentration level

0.4
0.2
% of Area Change
0
-0.2
2.5
2.5
2.5
60
60
60
70
70
70
80
80
80
Resin 30
-0.4
Resin 45
Resin 60
-0.6
-0.8
-1
-1.2
Fig 6-3 Relationship between resin level and

dimensional change

of area due to the change of resin concentration were
shown.
temperature, curing time and pick-up ratio, the

dimensional changes would be lesser when the resin
concentration level increases.
dimensional stability with the other perimeters constant.
125
It shown that the factor, resin level, would improve the

dimensional stability of the light weight 100% cotton

0.4
0.2
0
% of Area Change
30
30
30
45
45
45
60
60
60
-0.2
pick up 60%
-0.4
pick up 70%
pick up 80%
-0.6
-0.8
-1
-1.2
resin level

dimensional change

of area due to the change of pick-up ratio were shown.
It was shown that with the same drying temperature,
126
curing time and resin concentration level, the percentage

dimensional changes would increase or discuses when pickup ratio increases.
There was no trend showing that for a higher pick-up
ratio, the resin treated specimens would have a better or
inversed performance in dimensional stability with the
It shown that the factor, pick-up ratio, would have
limited to rare effect on the dimensional stability of
the light weight 100% cotton plain fabric which was being
Similar results were also shown
127

0.3
0.2
0.1
% of Area Change
0
-0.1
-0.2
2.5
2.5
2.5
60
60
60
70
70
70
80
80
80
45
45
45
45
45
45
45
45
45
-0.3
110C
120C
-0.4
-0.5
-0.6
-0.7
-0.8
curing time, pick up %, resin level

dimensional change
From the above graph (Fig 6-5), the percentage

dimensional changes due to the change drying temperature
were shown.
It was shown that with the same pick-up
ratio, curing time and resin concentration level, the

percentage dimensional changes would be more stable when
the drying temperature increases.
There was a general trend that for a dryer during
128
better performance on the smoothness appearance with the

other perimeters constant in general. It could show that
the factor, drying temperature, would improve the
dimensional stability on of the light weight 100% cotton
Most of the treated fabrics show similar results

0.40
0.30
% of Area Change
0.20
0.10
0.00
-0.10
2 min
60
60
60
70
70
70
80
80
80
30
45
60
30
45
60
30
45
60
2.5 min
3 min
-0.20
-0.30
-0.40
-0.50
pick up %, curing time
Fig 6-6 Relationship between curing time and

dimensional change

129
of area due to the change of curing time were shown.
It
was shown that with the same drying temperature, pick-up

ratio and resin concentration level, the percentage
dimensional changes would increase or discuses when
curing time increases.
inversed performance in dimensional stability with the
It shown that the factor, curing time, would have limited
to rare effect on the dimensional stability of the light
weight 100% cotton plain fabric which is being studied in
this project.
treated fabrics.
6.1.4
Conclusion
It was because of the small percentage dimensional change

(most are smaller than 1%), the contrasts of result based
on the change of the perimeter is not strong. Therefore,
130
some effects of the changing from the treated perimeter

were not as remarkable as the other testing. However,
some trend could still be shown.
In the Standard Testing AATCC 96, Dimensional Changes in
Commercial Laundering of Woven and Knitted Fabrics Except
Wool, it could be shown that with higher resin level and
higher drying temperature, the specimens would have
better performance in dimensional stability. Meanwhile,
the effect of pick-up on affecting the dimensional
stability was limited. It was also shown that the effect
of curing time on affecting the dimensional stability was
limited. It may be because of that the fabric being
studied in this project was thin and light in weight. 2
min was long enough for the resin to carry out
crosslinking reaction at the high curing temperature.
131
Chapter 7
7.1
Conclusion and Recommendation
General Conclusion
In this study, the effects of different resin treatment

perimeters, including resin level, pick-up ratio, drying
temperature and curing time have been explored. The
results obtained lead to the following conclusions.
The experimental results reveal the following findings:
1.
There are enhancements on the wrinkle recovery,
smoothness appearance and dimensional stability of the

light weight cotton plain fabric after resin treatment.
2.
There are significant reductions of tearing strength
of the light weight cotton plain fabric after resin

treatment.
3.
Higher resin concentration level would effetely
provide a moderate wrinkle resistant property on the

fabric, as well as the dimensional stability.
4.
Higher pick-up ratio would effectively provide a

132
moderate wrinkle resistant property on the fabric, as

well as the dimensional stability.
5.
Higher drying temperature would provide the fabric
with more stable performance in both the wrinkle

properties and dimensional changes.
6.
The effect of increase in curing time on improving
the wrinkle properties and dimensional stability is not

remarkable.
7.2
Recommendations
In the highly competitive garment market, garments which

can fulfill the expectation of customer are preferable.
In order to meeting the demanding quality specifications,
optimizations and modifications are needed for surviving
in the highly competitive business environment.
In this project, the effects of different resin treatment
perimeters, including resin level, pick-up ratio, drying
temperature and curing time have been evaluated.
However,
further researches are necessary to improve the existing

133
technology and develop new technology.
1.
Curing time
Since there is no trend for a long curing time would

improve the dimensional stability and wrinkle properties,
the duration of curing time for the crosslinking reaction
and its relationship to the thinness of the fabric would
be further studied.
2.
Resin solution
In the project, there is a consistent trend that fabric

treated with higher resin level would have a better
performance in wrinkle properties and dimensional
stability. Solution with higher resin concentration is
recommended to apply in order to find out the saturation
percentage for resin level in anti-wrinkle effect and
dimensional stability.
3.
Cotton-blend fabric
In this research, light weight 100% cotton plain fabric

was used for assessment. Other material blending with
134
cotton in plain woven could be also applied to evaluate

the contribution of cotton and plain structure in
affecting the wrinkle properties and dimensional
stability.
4.
Different weight of cotton fabric
In this study, only light weight cotton fabric is

evaluated. It is recommended to further study the resin
treatment in different perimeters on fabric in different
weightiness, such a sheer cotton fabric and medium to
heavy weight cotton fabric.
135
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A STUDTY OF THE RESIN FINISHING ON WRINKLE PROPERTY OF

LIGHT WEIGHT 100% COTTON PLAIN FABRIC

INSTITUTE OF TEXTILES & CLOTHING

A STUDTY OF THE RESIN FINISHING ON WRINKLE PROPERTY OF

Institute of Textiles & Clothing

I would like to express my gratitude to my supervisor Dr.C. H.

Special thanks are given to Dr. C.W. Kan, Assistant Professor

Heartfelt thanks are sent to laboratory technicians of the

The purpose of this study was to investigate the wrinkle

problem in the garment industry as light weight cotton fabric

Apart from wrinkle property, the effect of wrinkle treatment

In this project, experimental investigation would be conducted

Meanwhile, the effect of different perimeters towards the

Finally, general conclusion and recommendation would be drawn

Physical Structure of cotton

Fiber length and fineness

Chemical Properties of cotton

Absorbency and moisture regain

Mechanical Properties of cotton

Light weight plain woven fabric

Light weight fabric

Principle of crease formation

Mechanism of Wrinkle Resistance

Dystar Resin modified (DMDHEU)

Pad-Dry-Cure and resin

Other anti-wrinkle technology

1,2,3,4-Butantetracarboxylic acid (BTCA)40

Methodology and Experiment

Application on fabric resin treatment

Preparation for Resin

Standard Testing and Measurement

Wrinkle Recovery of Woven Fabrics:

Apparatus and Materials

Wrinkle Recovery of Fabrics: Appearance

Apparatus and Materials

Smoothness Appearance of Fabrics after

Apparatus and Materials

Determination of tear force using

Apparatus and Materials

Determination of tear force of

Apparatus and Materials

Dimensional Changes in Commercial

Apparatus and Materials

Wrinkle Properties of Cotton Fabric

AATCC Test Method 66 Wrinkle Recovery

AATCC Test Method 128 Wrinkle Recovery

AATCC Test Standard 124 Smoothness

Tearing Properties of Cotton Fabric

(BS EN ISO 13937-1)

Determination of tear force of

trouser-shaped test specimens

Conclusion and Recommendation

Synthesis of DMeDHEU (Hauser, 2004)

Crosslinking of cellulose with DMeDHEU (Hauser,

Fig 2-15 Crosslinking of cellulose with BTCA (Hauser,

Fig 4-3 Relationship between curing time and wrinkle

Fig 4-10 Relationship between resin level and wrinkle

Fig 6-4 Relationship between pick-up ratio and

100% cotton light weight plain fabric is commonly applied

one is to study the effect of the mechanical property of

The study is in two parts. The first part is to apply

AATCC 128 (Wrinkle Recovery of: Appearance Method) would