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Rumtse to Tso Moriri Lake Trek

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Trek to the largest high-altitude lake in India

Spread over 120 square kilometres, Tso Moriri is the largest high-altitude lake
that is entirely within India. And this Ladakhi wonder is the biggest reward of this
trek. One trudges through seven mountain passes, more than 10 river-crossings
and arid, deserted never-ending lands to get there. Throughout the 10-day trail,

Vaibhav is associated with Indiahikes as

trekkers have the company of landscapes that are so outlandish, they dont seem

a Writer & Chief Explorer. He is an avid

to belong from this world. Its a starkly beautiful trail that no other trek can

traveler with a passion for trekking in

replicate.

Indian Himalayas. With his roots in

Things to look out for on the Rumtse to Tso Moriri Lake Trek

Shimla district of Himachal Pradesh, the

1. The striking landscape of Changthang Plateau is outlandish and riveting. Trekking

in the high plateaus of Changthang has a very pleasant, Tibetian feel to it. The

love for the mountains is in his blood.

When not travelling he likes to spend
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in the high plateaus of Changthang has a very pleasant, Tibetian feel to it. The
colours of the Rocky Mountains are brilliant and they constantly change as the day
progresses.

time interacting with like-minded trek

enthusiasts and read books on travel
and mountaineering.

2. The beautiful Rupshu region is home to Changpa nomads, who have a distinct
Tibetan culture. The Changpa mainly raise yak and goats. Historically known to
travel from Ladakh to Lhasa, Changpa clans now make their presence felt on this
trail. It is an experience to see them camping with their livestock and to interact with

Trek Itinerary

them.
Day 1: Acclimitisation At Leh
3. If nothing else, do this trek for the camping grounds. The green camping grounds
of Kyamar, Tisaling and Rachungkharu are ridiculously pretty. It is hard to believe
that so much vegetation exists at an altitude of 17,000 feet.
4. The pass crossings on this trek are exceptionally challenging. On Day 2, crossing
three passes is, by no means, an easy task. The rewards of traversing passes like
Kyamar La, Mandachalan La, Shibuk La, Kyamayaru La and Yarlung Nyau La are

Day 2: Leh to Rumtse via road. Rumtse

to Kyamar camp
Day 3: Kyamar to Tisaling
Day 4: Tisaling to Ponganagu.
Day 5: Ponganagu to Nuruchen

immense.
Day 6: Nuruchen to Rachungkharu
5. The sighting of two of the most compelling lakes of the region is not to be missed.
While the wide Tso Kar salty basin is an unforgettable sight, the view of Tso Moriri

Day 7: Rest Day at Rachungkharu*

shining like a sapphire leaves an ever lasting impression.

Day 8: Rachungkharu to Gyamalhoma

6. The wildlife that one gets to see on this trek is stunning. The brackish lake of Tso

via Kyamayaru La and Gyamar La

Kar is home to the endangered black necked crane. It is also a breeding ground for

Day 9: Gyamalhoma to Karzok via

birds like the bar-necked geese and the Brahminy duck. The high plateaus of the

Yarlung Nyau La. (Karzok is next to Tso

area are home to some rare animals such as the Kyang (wild ass), blue sheep,

Moriri lake.)

marmots, Himalayan Ibex and snow leopards.

Day 1: Acclimatisation at Leh or Rumtse

Altitude: 11,562 feet (3,524 meters)
It is highly recommended that you rest for a day at Leh to acclimatise (not only

Day 10: Drive to Leh

*It is advised to have a rest day. A rest
day somewhere at Rachungkharu is
recommended.

during this trek, but during any trek in Ladakh). Walk around within Leh to get

Trek Info

yourself better acclimatised. This should be taken more seriously by those planning
to reach Leh via flight. At any point, do not attempt to start the trek if you
feel unwell.

Altitude

17,369 feet approx

Note that one can also choose to head to Rumtse on Day 2 and spend one night there

Trail Type

Medium Difficult

for acclimatisation purpose. Rumtse has camping grounds where one can pitch tents.

gradients. Long day of

One can also opt for local home stays by paying anything from Rs. 400 onwards for a

trekking in hot and sunny

room. Just one kilometre ahead of Rumtse is Jammu & Kashmir Tourism Lodge,

weather. Arid, dusty

towards the left of the Manali-Leh road. One can choose to stay there as well.

weather in day time with

Day 2: Leh Rumtse Kyamar

temperature ranging from

Time taken: 2-3 hours drive of 79 km, 4 to 5 hours trekking of 9.5

km
Altitude: 13,772 ft to 15,006 ft
GPS Coordinates: N 3337.837, E 078 45.417 to N 3333.255, E 077
50.533

28 to 35 degree Celsius.
The temperature at night
is cold at around 5
degree to zero degree
Celsius. Expect multiple

Rumtse is 79 km from Leh. It takes around 2-3 hours to get there on the Leh-Manali
road. Its a pleasant journey with great views of the Indus Valley and monasteries of
Hemis, Thiksey, etc.

pass crossings at an
altitude of 17,000 feet in
a day. Well-defined

Rumtse is a small village. It lies in Rupshi, which is a valley sandwiched between

gravel terrain with scree

Zanskar, Tibet and Ladakh. The local monastery near Rumtse, Gya, has as many as

with little or no snow at

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Zanskar, Tibet and Ladakh. The local monastery near Rumtse, Gya, has as many as

with little or no snow at

108 stupas and is over 700 years old. Being in close proximity from where the

passes in summer

Changthang plateau begins, it is the base camp for treks to Tso Kar and Tso Moreriri

season.

Lake.

Best Season

July to September

Walk down for a kilometre on the Leh-Manali highway from the Rumtse local
market. Take the trail towards your left. Pass by J&K Tourism lodge and hike
alongside the Chhaba Chu stream, which will flow on your left.

Trek Map

After 10 minutes, spot a steel bridge. Cross the bridge with the stream on your left
and keep left, along a small plateau. The dusty trail will eventually take a U-turn as
you leave Chhaba Chu and enter Kyamar valley. This point is a confluence of Kyamar
stream and Chhabu Chu. Leaving behind Chhabu Chu, look for multiple rivulets.
These are small streams and can easily be crossed.

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After 20 minutes of level walk, make note of large green marshes on your right,
suitable for camping. Here, cross the stream and take the trail going left. The walk to
Kyamar campsite is easy and over relatively flat terrain. The altitude gain for the
day is roughly 1,224 feet (373 metres) only.
The trail swirls inward along the natural scope of the valley. A hike of 30 minutes will
lead to a change in landscape. The green marshes give way to gravel. There is a small
gradual ascent over a rocky spur. After 10 minutes, you will reach the base of this
plateau. From here, observe a 3 way opening of the valley. Take the widest valley in
front of you. This is the logical trail going to the grazing grounds of Kyamar. After
walking for 30 minutes, the green marshes will re-appear along Kyamar stream.

The river basin remains on your right. The Changpa nomads are known to camp
here during summer. The trail to Kyamar can also be covered in an SUV. The
Kyamar valley is wide with vast marshlands. You will be required to cross the
stream towards the right and then back to the left side as per the trail in front of you.
The stream-crossing can be negotiated easily. This section of the valley will take 4560 minutes to traverse.
Ahead of you, observe the highest mountain with snow on its summit. The Kyamar
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grazing grounds are located at the base of this summit. It will take around 3o
minutes to reach the base of this mountain. From here, one can see the beginning of
Kyamar green pasture land. It is advisable to trek towards the end point of these
grounds.

The final section of the trek will take 45-60 minutes. Look for a suitable camping
spot next to the stream, which is on the right side of the trail. Kyamars grounds are
surrounded by beautiful rocky hills on three sides of the valley.

Day 3: Kyamar Kyamar La Mandachalan La Tisaling

Altitude: 15,006 ft 16,804 ft 17,162 ft 16,496 ft
Time taken: 8-9 hours, 15 km
GPS Coordinates: N 3331.874, E 077 53.707 N 3330.294, E 077
54.632 N 3329.253, E 077 55.968
Youve got a long day ahead. Start early, by taking the trail going to the base of
Kyamar Mountain. Cross the stream and re-join the trail coming from Rumtse. From
the base of the mountain, walk on the trail that naturally curves left. The green
landscape is left behind as you now enter the barren mountainscape of the upper
plateau of Kyamar.
The trail now gradually climbs up as you approach the base of Kyamar La. A 20
minute hike will have you reach the centre of the valley. From here, take the wide
SUV trail on your right. Spot a rocky structure on the trail and cross the structure
from its left. You now can see the base of Kyamar La straight ahead of you.

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Towards your right is Kyamar Nallah, which dries up every summer. There is a lot of
distance to cover to reach the Pass. Looking back, observe the Zanskar ranges,
especially Mt. Kang Yatse, which looks stunning. It takes an hour to reach the base of
the pass. Observe a small bridge made of boulders and stones over Kyamar stream.
Cross over and take the trail that winds upward on your right.
From here, its a steep ascent all the way to the pass. The final section of the ridge is
littered with tiny wild flowers. Kyamar Pass is a high altitude gravel saddle.
Generally, there is no snow on the pass in summer (July-August). Towards its left is
a mountain top, with a temple dedicated to lord Shiva. There are prayer flags at the
summit of the pass. The 360 degree view from the pass is mind-boggling.

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Leaving Kyamar valley behind, take the trail going downwards on the right side of
the ridge. Its a level walk for 15 minutes, after which the descent becomes sharp.
Make note of the river bed of Tassa Phu below you. The trail is slippery, with loose
gravel. If raining, extra care should be taken while descending. It takes 30-45
minutes to climb down to the river bed.

Take the trail going towards your left as you reach the river bed. Cross Taasa Phu.
Observe two valleys that open in front of you. Take the one that is on your
immediate left. The ascent towards Mandachalan La is a brutal and laborious slog of
950 feet. This section has a healthy presence of Himalayan Ibex, Marmot and Wild
hare.

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The initial section has a gradual ascent till the base of the pass. The climb up to the
pass may take anything from two to three hours. The terrain is all dry, with no snow.
It does get very hot in noon, so make sure to stay hydrated and not over-exert
yourself. Expect the temperature to be around 35 degree Celsius on a sunny day.
Mandachalan Pass is well-marked with cairns and prayer flags. The view from the
top is a notch better than Kyamar La. Observe the connecting ridge, below which lies
Tisaling, your destination for the day. Towards the north, the high peaks of Pangong
region watch over the valley.

Go ahead on the right side of the ridge into a bowl-shaped valley. The trail is a levelwalk of 2 kilometres. It leads all the way towards the summit of an un-named pass.
From the pass, look for the green camping ground of Tisaling below. Feel free to
break trail and descend towards the camping ground at Tisaling.

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You will have to cross the stream and the marshland for a suitable spot for camping
just at the base of Shibuk La. Tisaling is beautiful high altitude grassland between
Mandachalan and Tisaling Passes.

Day 4: Tisaling Shibuk La Pongunagu (Tso Kar campsite)

Altitude: 16,496 ft 17,369 ft 15,049 ft
Time taken: 6-7 hours, 15 km
GPS Coordinates: N 3328.339, E 077 56.650 to N 3321.606, E 077
57.562
Start early in the morning to avoid the brutal afternoon sun. The initial part of the
trek involves a short and steady climb to Shibuk La, which is adjacent to the camp
site.

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The approximate distance to the top of the pass is 1.5 km. The altitude gain is over
950 feet. Cross the stream and head to the base of Shibuk La. The trail moves southeast and the pass is clearly visible above. There are several ways to reach the
summit. The straight route requires you to cross the stream towards your left and
make a straight line upwards to the summit. This route is the shortest. However, the
route has the maximum incline and is strenuous. The other way to go about it is to
take the left side trail and reach the crest of the pass. This is a longer route but the
ascent is gradual, at least initially. It takes about an hour to reach Shibuk La.

The view of the Tisaling camp site from here is stunning. So is the vast Tso Kar
valley that stretches out right ahead of you. One can also catch a glimpse of the salt
lake, Tso Kar, in the distance. Mt. Thugse (6,050 m) and Mt. Gursan (6,370 m)
stand prominently at the horizon. The descent from the pass to Tso Kar Lake is
rapid, as you pass by a fertile stretch of land. The land here is frequented by
Changpa nomads, who come with their livestock.

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From here, the hike to Pongunagu takes 4-5 hours. After an hour, a rocky screefilled trail awaits you. The view of Tso Kar lake basin is closer than ever as you
descend swiftly. About 2-3 hours into descent, you will exit Shibuk La valley and
enter Tso Kar region. Follow the trail on your right and exit the valley.

The trail here is well-defined. The brackish barren land has a unique array of colours
that keep changing as the day progresses. As you approach the rocky spur, there will
be a series of two crests of the plateau that need to be traversed. This will take 3045 minutes.

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Once at the top of the plateau, follow the trail that winds right. After 15 minutes of
level walk, observe the whole Tso Kar Lake below. A motorable road is visible below.
It comes from the Leh-Manali road. This road goes east, crossing Polokongka La and
descends to Puga Valley. It then heads south to Tso Moriri Lake. Towards the far
right, after crossing this road is the campsite of Pongunagu. It takes 20 minutes of
brisk walking to reach the camp site. Take the trail from the left side of a large
fenced grazing ground to reach the camp site. This is the shortest route. Pongunagu
has place for pitching tents.

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It also has ready-to-use tents on rent. A satellite phone is also available in a nearest
village, Thugje, 3 km away from the camp site. The camp is connected via a
motorable road. Private vehicles need to be arranged from Leh in advance if
required.

Day 5: Pongunagu to Nuruchen

Altitude: 15,049 ft to 15,308 ft
Time taken: 6-7 hours, 16 km
Today is a relatively easy day for trekking. Take the trail going south, facing the
bank of Tso Kar lake. With the lake towards your left, the Jeep trail is a pleasant one.
Lookout for black necked cranes and Brahminy ducks. The trail passes by a few tea
shops and winter shelters used by Changpa folk.
The valley widens as you walk towards Nuruchen, a Changpa village. Looming ahead
are towering Zanskar ranges, where you can easily spot the Horlam (Kongka) La
ridge. The trail has gentle ascents with level walks for most of the day. Although its
an easy walk, its a long walk all the way to Nuruchen, which is used as a safe haven
during bone-chilling winters by Changpas. During summer, Nuruchen looks like a
ghost village with abandoned huts. There is a refreshing stream gushing down from
the Horlam La ridge, from the south west side. The rivulet is known as Nuruchen
Lungpa and drains into the Tso Kar Lake. Pitch tents near the stream for the night.

Day 6: Nuruchen Horlam La Rachungkharu

Altitude: 15,308 ft 16,300 ft 16,148
Time taken: 4 hours, 9 km
Todays trek is a fairly simple one. Horlam La is the easiest pass crossing in this trek.
Ford the Nuruchen rivulet and proceed further south west into the Tso Moriri
Valley. The ascent to the pass is gradual. Look back for a gorgeous view of the
turquoise blue Tso Kar Lake. Notice an increased presence of Changpa nomads all
the way to their settlement in Rachungkharu. Also, Kiangs, Tibetan wild horses
frequent this trail often. The trail is gravel and scree with short wild grass. The
approach to the pass is easy, with wide expanses suitable for SUVs to drive by.
From the top of the pass, there are great views to fathom. Reaching the pass is not
that significant, compared to what is in store ahead. Descend to the grassy marshes
of Spanglung Serpa river basin. A forty minute downhill ridge walk will have you
reach the mushy marshes of the river basin. Avoid walking on the slushy side of the
marshland. Look out for a suitable spot to ford the river. The trail now takes you on a
five kilometre stretch till the campsite of Rachungkharu. Camp next to the river for
the night.

Day 7: Rest day at Rachungkharu

Rachungkharu is a suitable place to rest for a day. The next two days are going to
have difficult pass crossings and a rest day helps the team to recuperate from the
rigour of trekking at such high altitude.

Day 8: Rachungkharu Kyamayaru La Gyamar La Gyamalhoma

Altitude: 16,148 ft 17,782 ft 17,700 ft 16, 896 ft
Time taken: 6 hours, 13 km
Expect a long day of trekking. Today, you have two of the most formidable pass
crossings in store for you. The other challenge of the day is fording a series of
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rivulets, including a few of them that can be tricky.

Start early. Take the clear-cut trail to Kyamayaru La, moving south. Follow the left
course of the passing rivulet as you approach the base of the pass. After around an
hour, spot the saddle of Kyamayaru La on your right. Take the trail ascending all the
way to the pass. It takes an hour to reach the top of Kyamayaru La. Looking back,
visually retrace the ridge of Horlam La. Tso Kar lake is also visible behind Horlam
La. If you look south, Kang Yatse is visible at a distance.
Ahead of you lies the wide valley of Gyam chu. Descend to the extensive river basin
of Gyam Chu. As you reach the first river, walk beside it until you reach pasture
grounds used by yak herders. Ford the river from here and move ahead into Gyam
Chu basin.
Below snow-covered Mendok ranges in the distance, observe several plateaus.
Gyamar La ridge is in middle of those plateaus. The trail may have yak carcasses
lying around. The ascent to the pass is steep. Keep a slow and steady pace as you
approach the pass. It takes close to two hours to reach the top. The pass has several
prayer flags neatly laid out. The Mendok ranges (1 & 2) can be seen distinctly in a
southern direction from here.
Descend from the pass towards the arid side of Gyamar basin. As you reach the
banks of the stream, brace yourself for an exhilarating experience of river-crossings.
The rivers here are voluminous and deep. Try boulder hopping or wade through the
deep currents. The second river crossing appears shortly after the first one. Take the
same approach.
After crossing the river, do warm up and dry yourself. The water is icy cold. From
here, head south, towards the convergence of rivulets that form the Gyamar River.
Gyamalhoma campsite is across the river. Walk towards the bank of the river and
prepare for the last river crossing of the day.
Gyamalhoma is a beautiful pasture ground frequented by Changpa yak herders. The
place makes for an excellent camping spot. It is the base camp for climbing Mendok 1
and 2 peaks.

Day 9: Gyamalhoma Yarlung Nyau La Karzok

Altitude: 16,896 ft 17,841 ft 14,895 ft
Time taken: 6 hours, 14 km
Todays sceneries are the best youll see on this trek. Prepare to cross the highest
pass of the trek. Yarlung La is located at an elevation of 17,841 feet and has best
views of the trek to offer. Take the marked trail heading south east of the river
valley. About an hour of level walk over receding pasture land, will have you enter a
rocky landscape. The valley is barren and prone to rock fall. Ford over a few gentle
rivulets. There are cairns on the trail that keep you from getting lost.
The plateau of Mendok will come into view after around 2 hours. The saddle of
Yarlung Nyau La is now clearly visible ahead as you gain altitude. As you go higher,
the dusty wind hits you in thunderous bursts.
As you reach the top, the first appearance of Tso Moriri lake is an overwhelming
sight to fathom. The lake is huge and dominates the landscape. Some famous trekworthy peaks like Chhamsher Kangri (21,725 feet) and Lungser Kangri (21,870 feet)
are clearly visible from here.
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Standing at the highest point of the trek, bask in the view for a while before
descending. The descent to Tso Moriri lake loses altitude by 3,000 feet. Hike all the
way up to Karzok, which is located at the bank of Tso Moriri. An hourof descent will
bring you to the pasture land of Karzok Phu. They are summer grazing grounds of
Changpa nomads.
The trail from here winds through an arid desert valley, beautiful in its own accord,
all the way to Karzok. The bank of the stream that drains into Tso Moriri has some
green marshlands. Walk for another two hours at a steady pace to reach the camping
grounds of Karzok next to the stream. Towards your left, observe an ancient 500year-old Buddhist Monastery of Karzok. The satellite phone booth is adjacent to the
Monastery property. Camp at the designated camping area for the night.

Day 10: Drive to Leh

Altitude: 14,895 ft 11,562 ft
Time taken: 6-7 hours drive, 211 km
The trek ends at Karzok. Drive back from Karzok to Leh. The road journey to Leh
takes 6 to 7 hours. Leh is around 211 kilometres from Karzok.
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