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Insulating curtains that cut heat losses through windows by

50% by padigm (/member/padigm/)
Download (/id/Insulating-roll-up-curtains-that-cut-heat-losses-t/?download=pdf)

h (/id/Insulating-roll-up-curtains-that-cut-heat-losses-t/)

14 Steps

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Door &
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Repairs
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About This Instructable

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Bio: I am a mechanical and environmental

engineer, and I help companies pollute

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(/file/FHG3EGUHZTOCFWT/)

20 to 50% of all the energy that is used to heat up a typical home during the
winter is lost through its windows. This wasted energy increases our heating bills
as well as our carbon footprint, neither of which does anyone any good. With this
in mind, we designed the Kume curtain: a simple and inexpensive do-it-yourself
insulating curtain that can help us save money, keep our homes cozier and be
kinder to the environment.
"Kume" in the language of the Mapuche people of Chile means "good." We feel
that this name is well-deserved as the performance of these curtains is very
"kume" indeed. The thermographic photograph shown above speaks for itself. It
was taken early one winter morning and clearly shows that the window fitted with
a Kume curtain is much cooler than the one fitted with a conventional decorative
curtain - and is actually even cooler than the masonry wall. This can mean only
one thing: instead of letting the heat seep out of the house, the Kume curtain
keeps the heat in, where you need it.
The benefits offered by Kume curtains are as follows:
1. They lower heat losses through windows by 50 to 70%, and improve comfort
by eliminating cold spots and drafts in rooms. In the first test homes fitted
with Kume curtains, heating fuel consumption dropped by 25%.
2. They are inexpensive. The cost of the materials that are needed to make a
Kume curtain typically ranges from US$ 1 to 1.5 per square foot.
3. They are easy to make. Putting together a Kume curtain does not require
great manual skills or much time. For example, assembling a 2x4 ft curtain
takes less than two hours. The hardest part of making the curtains is cutting
the panels straight and to size. If you use polar fleece for the panels, you don
t even need to hem the fabric, and the whole curtain can be assembled
without a single stitch.

Step 1: What is a Kume curtain?

curtains-that-cut-heat-losses-t/)
Tags:
Sustainability (/tag/type-id/keyword-Sustainability/)
Green (/tag/type-id/keyword-Green/)
windows (/tag/type-id/keyword-windows/)
blinds (/tag/type-id/keyword-blinds/)
insulation (/tag/type-id/keyword-insulation/)
insulating (/tag/type-id/keyword-insulating/)
energy (/tag/type-id/keyword-energy/)
winter (/tag/type-id/keyword-winter/)
heating (/tag/type-id/keyword-heating/)
energy efficiency (/tag/type-id/keyword-energy%20efficiency/)
insulated (/tag/type-id/keyword-insulated/)
global warming (/tag/type-id/keyword-global%20warming/)
insulated curtains (/tag/type-id/keyword-insulated%20curtains/)
energy conservation (/tag/type-id/keyword-energy%20conservation/)
climate change (/tag/type-id/keyword-climate%20change/)
sustainable (/tag/type-id/keyword-sustainable/)
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Related
Make home energy
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(/id/Make-home-energyimprovements-and-have-the(/id/MakeWinterize! Window Insulation
& Other Tips for a Warm
Winter (/id/WinterizeWindow-Insulation-Other(/id/Winterize- Tips-for-a-Warm-/)
Make Your House Energy
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by irish death1
(/member/irish+death1/)
Living a Greener More
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(/id/Living-a-Greener-MoreEnergy-Efficient-Life/)
by tashiandmo
The ultimate guide to eco
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by magicentral
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Sash and case

windows
tjross.co.uk/sash-windows

(/file/FWP5B0LHZL3RQBD/)

It is a roll-up curtain that is composed of four distinct layers.

1) A front panel which acts as the first layer of insulation and seals the perimeter
of the window opening when the curtain is closed.

Double glazed sash and case

windows Call us for a free quotation
today!

Timber
Windows

2) A moisture barrier which prevents indoor humidity from reaching the window
and condensing on the cold glass and window frame.

Sash and case

Edinburgh

3 & 4) Wooden battens which maintain the fabric stretched out and thereby
ensure that the curtain fits tightly against both sides of the window opening. The
battens also create air pockets which further reduce heat losses hrough the
curtain.

Door & Window

Repairs

5) A back panel which acts as the final layer of insulation and helps seal the
perimeter of the window opening when the curtain is closed.
The reasons why a Kume curtain is so effective in reducing heat losses through
windows are:
1. Still air is one of the best insulators found in nature, and the Kume curtain
contains a lot of it. First, between the fibers of the thick polar fleece that is
used to make the curtain, and second inside the thin spaces that are created
etween the front and back panels by the battens.
2. When closed, the Kume curtain fits tightly against the top, bottom and sides
of the window opening. By doing so it traps a layer of insulating air between
the glass and the curtain, and prevents the cold air that forms against the
lass from seeping into the room.
3. A Kume curtain basically works just like a good down jacket on a cold winter
day. The air that is trapped in the thick layer of down creates an effective
insulating layer, and the tight fit of the jacket around your waist, neck and
wrists keeps your body heat in, rather than letting it leak out into the cold
environment.

Double Glazed
Windows
Replacement doors &
windows Reduced rates on
windows & doors

Step 2: Where and how can you use a Kume curtain?

(/file/FA4TVRTHZL3RQBG/)

(/file/FT7ZZRNHZL3RQ0O/)

Curtains from
Just 14.22
Window Tinting
Inverness

1) A Kume curtain can be used on any window whose frame is recessed by at

least 1.5" with respect to interior surface of a wall. This is because the curtain
works best if it is able to tightly seal the complete perimeter (that is, the top,
bottom and sides) of the window opening.
2) A Kume curtain is much less effective when installed on a window that is
mounted flush with the interior wall, because the cold air that builds up on the
inside surface of the window is able to flow around the sides and bottom of the
curtain and seep into the room.
3) When raised, the curtain forms a tight roll whose diameter varies depending
on the length of the curtain and the thickness of the material used. For example,
a curtain that is 5 ft long and made of two layers of fleece will produce a roll with
a diameter of approximately 5". The rolled up curtain does not affect the
operation of windows that open outward, sash windows or sliding windows, but it
will prevent the operation of windows that open inward. If fitted with Kume
curtains, these types of windows will have to remain closed until the curtains are
taken down in spring.

Step 3: Where and how can you use a Kume curtain?

(continued)

(/file/F8VMZC3HZL3RQ22/)

4) Depending on the type of fabric used, Kume curtains can be translucent to

opaque. Therefore, they are mainly designed to shield windows at night, when
indoor privacy is desirable, outdoor temperatures are lowest, and heat losses are
greatest. In certain cases, however, the curtains can also be used during the
day: for example, in unoccupied rooms in which daylighting is unnecessary, and
in which the windows do not provide any useful solar heat gains.
5) They can be used as the primary curtain on a window, or used in conjunction
with a decorative curtain, as shown in the pictures above.

Step 4: Standard components and materials

(/file/FUWOCP9HZL3RPWV/)

(/file/FVE28KDHZL3RQJV/)

For a window opening of width "W" and height "H, you will need the following
components:
1) Front panel
Width = W + 0.75", height = H + 0.75"
Material = Polar fleece or another thick and flexible fabric that can fit snugly
against the sides of the window opening and prevent the passage of air.
If the Kume curtain is used as a primary curtain, the front panel can be made
with a fabric that best suits the decor of the room (a cotton print for example).
You should ideally wash the fabric before making the panels and, as with all
drapery, you should consider using flame-retardant fabrics.
2) Moisture barrier
Width = W - 0.75", height = H
Material = Transparent polyethylene with a thickness of approx. 4 mils
(0.004"). You can also use a black polyethylene sheet, but keep in mind that
this will make your curtain totally opaque (blackout) even if you use light
colored fabric for the front and back panels.
3) Upper batten
Section = Approximately 0.5" x 1"
Length = W - 0.75"
Material = Pine or ideally hardwood.
4) Lower battens
Section = Approximately 0.5" x 0.75"
Length = W - 0.75"
Material = Pine or ideally hardwood.
Number = The spacing between the battens should not exceed 20", therefore
the number of lower battens needed depends on the height of the curtain.
5) Back panel
Width = W + 0.75", height = H + 0.75"
Material = Ideally polar fleece or another thick and flexible fabric.
6) Fasteners (not shown)
For the back panel we recommend using staples, while for the front panel,
which is visible from the room, we recommend using thumb tacks or
upholstery tacks. If you are concerned with having these fasteners rust and
stain the fabric, you should use stainless steel staples and rust resistant
tacks.
Notes:
A) The front and back panels are a bit bigger than the window opening. This is
because these pannels need to completely plug the window opening when the
curtain is closed.
B) The choice of materials was mainly guided by our desire to make these
curtains very affordable and simple to make. This is why we chose polar fleece
for the curtain panels (fleece is inexpensive, insulating, widely available, and
requires no stiching to be transformed into curtains), and polyethylene film for
the vapor barrier. However, many other types of materials can be used to
assemble a Kume curtain. For example, the curtain shown in the last step of
these instructables was made using a back panel made of dark blue fleece, a
vapor barrier made of transparent polyethylene, and a front panel made of dark
blue fleece on which we sewed a flowered cotton print. As you can imagine, this
curtain was totally opaque and worked great as a blackout curtain in addition to
keeping out the cold.
If you would like to use other types of materials, or even a different structure for
the curtain (for example, using a quilted or interlining fabric to fill the gap

between the front and back panels), please keep in mind the following points:
The fabric chosen for the front and back panels should ideally be moderately
thick, tightly woven to restrict the passage of air, and flexible so that it can
accommodate itself tightly against the sides and bottom of the window
opening.
If you decide to use a very thick material for the front or back pannels or for
the moisture barrier, please consider what this will do to the size of the roll
that you will end up with when you raise the curtain.
The curtain should have a moisture barrier placed behind the front panel.
Without a vapor barrier you will get a lot of condensation against the cold
glass, with a good vapor barrier you will get none (or almost none).
The moisture barrier should be made of a thin, flexible and non-breathable
material or fabric. It can be of any color, but if it is opaque it will transform
your curtain in a blackout curtain even if you use light colored fabrics for the
front and back panels.
The curtain should fit in the window opening and seal the full perimeter of this
opening to prevent the cold air that forms against the glass from seeping into
the room.

Step 5: In this example we'll assemble a curtain for a window

opening that is 24" wide and 48" tall

(/file/FKBQ94OHZL3RQKA/)

The materials needed for this curtain are:

A 24.75" x 48.75" front panel (in this example it is made of thick white cotton
canvas)
A 23.25" x 48" sheet of transparent polyethylene with a thickness of 4 mils
(0.004")
An upper batten made of pine with a cross section of 0.5" x 1" cm and a
length of 23.25"
Three lower battens made of pine with a cross section of 0.5" x 0.75" and a
length of 23.25"
A 24.75" x 48.75" back panel (in this example it is made of yellow polar
fleece)
Thumb tacks to fasten the front panel and plastic sheet to the battens. We
use thumb tacks for aesthetic reasons since the front panel is visible from
the room.
A stapler to fasten the back panel to the battens

Step 6: Trace the position of the battens on the plastic sheet.

(/file/FRQA8DSHZL3RQSU/)

Make sure that:

The top edge of the upper batten is aligned with the top edge of the plastic
sheet;
The bottom edge of the lower batten is aligned with the bottom edge of the
plastic sheet; and
The remaining battens are evenly distributed over the height of the plastic
sheet.

Step 7: Slip the battens under the plastic sheet and use the
marks traced on the plastic sheet to align them properly.

(/file/FHZLY5KHZL3RQT9/)

Since the length of the battens is equal to the width of the plastic sheet, the ends
of the battens should also align with the sides of the plastic sheet.

Step 8: Lay the front panel over the plastic sheet.

(/file/FLFLB0IHZL3RRZX/)

(/file/FQLMFDKHZL3RR15/)

(/file/FMNRI5NHZL3RR3E/)

The front panel is slightly longer and wider than the plastic sheet, so when in
place:
A) The top of the front panel should be aligned with the top batten;
B) The bottom of the front panel should extend by ~0.75" below the lower batten
and base of the plastic sheet; and
C) Each side of the front panel should extend by ~0.75" past the ends of the
battens and sides of the plastic sheet.

Step 9: Use tacks to fasten the front panel and the plastic
sheet to the battens.

(/file/FM7G2M5HZL3RRC5/)

Place a tack within 0.5" of the ends of each batten.

Use enough thumb tacks between both ends of the battens to properly fix the
fabric and plastic to the battens.
On the upper batten, the spacing between the thumb tacks should be between
4" to 8".
On the lower battens, the spacing between the thumb tacks can be increased
to double the spacing used on the upper batten.

Step 10: Flip the curtain over.

(/file/FA62587HZL3RRDV/)

Step 11: Place the back panel over the partially assembled
curtain so that it rests directly on the battens.

(/file/FUUX84YHZL3RRL4/)

(/file/FJQAOPBHZL3RRN4/)

The back panel has the same dimension as the front panel, so when in place:
A) The top of the back panel should be aligned with the top batten;
B) The bottom of the back panel should extend by ~0.75" below the last
batten and base of the plastic sheet;
C) Each side of the back panel should extend by ~0.75" beyond the ends of
the battens and sides of the plastic sheet.

Step 12: Use staples to fasten the back panel to the battens.

(/file/FTK511UHZL3RRV6/)

(/file/FV2NV3BHZL3RRVW/)

(/file/FAFEAJGHZL3RRXJ/)

Place a staple within 3/8" of the ends of each batten. This will ensure that the
material maintains its full width and touches the sides of the window opening.
Use enough staples between both ends of the battens to properly fix the fabric to
the battens.
You are done!

Step 13: For additional information ...

(/file/FGGGDMBHZL3RPS4/)

(/file/FLH2VKAHZL3RS08/)

Refer to the web page www.kumeproject.com (http://www.kumeproject.com) for

instructions on how to mount the curtain and create the tie to hold the curtain in
the rolled position. Other options for assembling the curtain are also described
on this page.
This web page provides the curtain assembly instructions in French, Spanish
and Italian, as well as in metric (mm) and US customary (inches) units.

Step 14:

(/file/FMEYFT1HZL3RPU8/)

(/file/FYAV101HZNYKE7T/)

We hope you like them.

The Kume team

Ad

Sash and case windows

Double glazed sash and case windows Family
business for over 35 years
tjross.co.uk/sash-windows

We have a be nice comment policy.

Please be positive and constructive.

w I Made it!

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mongoose5271 (/member/mongoose5271)

Post Comment

20 days ago

Reply

I have mostly older windows in my home and made a couple

of these curtains. Made a noticeable difference in the rooms
that I installed these, but to my horror, when I rolled them up,
there was a ton of condensation on the windows and even
ice near the bottoms. I used polar fleece and 2 mil plastic
drop cloth (doubled over on each window) and followed the
instructions; the curtains fit snuggly into the openings. Any
ideas?

X
8

padigm (/member/padigm) (author) . mongoose5271 (/member/mongoose5271)

Thank you for your comment. I am glad to see that the 15 days ago
curtains have made a noticeable difference in keeping
the rooms warmer, but I am surprised to hear that you
have problems of heavy condensation on the glass
when the curtains are closed.
My experience with the curtains installed in my house
and in the houses of friends and relatives is that when
the curtains are closed there should be no (or a
minimum amount) of condensation on the windows as
long as the following conditions are met:
1) The vapor barrier panel and the fleece/cloth panels
are cut to the correct size. There should be only a
small gap (approx. 3/8) between the sides of the
plastic sheet and the sides of the window opening,
and when the curtain is closed this gap should be
totally filled by the excess width of the fleece panels
which is pressed and folded against the sides of the
window opening.

Reply

window opening.
2) There is no large hole or tear in the vapor barrier.
Even a very thin sheet of plastic (e.g., saran wrap) is
enough to stop the movement of vapor through the
curtain. The reason why I recommend using a 4 mil
plastic sheet is that, according to my experience, it is
more resistant and can handle the frequent
rolling/unrolling of the curtain without tearing.
3) The curtain really plugs the window opening when
closed. The curtains needs to seal extremely well the
complete perimeter of the window opening. You can
check this by closing the curtain during the day and
turning the lights off in the room. You should see no
daylight seeping through the perimeter of the curtain (a
very thin sliver of light here and there is ok, but no
more than that). If that is not the case, then you will
have a trickle of moist flowing through the gap and
bringing condensation to the glass panes.
I am not sure what the problem might be in your case.
Could you please post pictures of your curtains
(including details showing how the curtain fits against
the top, bottom and sides of the window frame), of the
windows on which they are installed, and of the
condensation? Could you also provide more
information on your particular installation?
1) Where are you located?
2) What are the typical nighttime temperatures during
the winter?
3) Are these curtains installed in a room with a very
high level of humidity (e.g., kitchen, laundry room)?
4) When you close the curtain, after how much time do
you start seeing condensation on the glass?
5) Are your windows very drafty? If so, could it be that
the moist air is coming in from outside?
Looking forward to your input.
PS: If you have condensation on your windows it is not
surprisingat all that it will freeze during a cold night.
You have to keep in mind that the closed curtains
prevent the heat of the room from reaching the
window. Therefore, on a cold night, the temperature of
the inner pane of the window can drop to below
freezing and any condensation on it will turn to ice.

mongoose5271 (/member/mongoose5271) made it! . padigm (/member/padigm)

13 days ago

Reply

Yes, I had cut everything according to the instructions and there were no
holes in the vapor barrier. I made sure to plug the openings and ensure
that there were no gaps. Before trying this, I had used the plastic film kits
that you can buy at any hardware store. Although, due to the fact that most
of my windows are aluminum framed sliders (with no vertical surface at the
bottom to apply the tape), I had built wooden frames to fit within the
opening, then covered those frames with the plastic and used rope caulk
or foam weatherstripping to plug any gaps. Not the most aesthetically
pleasing look, but it helped, although there was a little bit of condensation
on the metal frame near the bottom but nothing near what I've been
experiencing. I've attached a pic (MasterBed.jpg) to show the frames that
I've been using. I live in Michigan and up until about a week ago, we've
had a very mild winter. In the last week, though, it's been more normal:
highs in the 20s and a few times the lows in the low teens and even single
digits. Now of the three windows that I've been testing these curtains in,
one is the laundry room and another is a bathroom which is right off the
laundry room. But the third room is my daughter's, all the way on the other
side of the house, which is a ranch by the way. The aluminum framed
windows in the bathroom and laundry room are not the most efficient but
the window in my daughter's room is fairly new. My furnace humidifier is
set to 25%, so it's not overly humid in the house. Since I started having the

problem, I've experimented with these curtains to try to figure out a

solution. So last night, I tried something different for each of the three
rooms. For my daughter's room, all I did was hang the fleece from the
curtains from the brackets for the vertical blinds. I knew this would create
condensation but I wanted to see the result, and while there was some, it
wasn't anything like what I had been experiencing. For the laundry room I
extended the vapor barrier (duct taped extra strips on the existing panel
that I had originally cut...I know, very hack-like!) on the sides and bottom
and then "pressed" it all into the opening. The result was some
condensation and a little bit of frost near the bottom portion of the frame,
but nothing near what I had before. For the bathroom, I removed the back
panel of fleece and then also extended the vapor barrier and pressed the
curtain into the opening. This produced only a small amount of
condensation, definitely something I could live with. I'm uploading a
number of pics that I took this morning (around 6 AM, 15 degrees at the
time) for you to see. It seems to me that not having the vapor barrier cut to
at least the same size as the opening for the window is the problem, at
least for my house; no matter how I folded the fleece to plug the opening,
obviously a lot of warm air was getting through to condense on the
windows. So I think I'm going to try the solution that I used for the bathroom
on the other two windows and see what happens. If it's a good result, then
I'll use it for the other windows. The bathroom and laundry room windows
have venetian style blinds on them, so I put velcro strips on the upper
batten and had to attach that to the opening between the blinds and the
window. A tight fit right at that point but nothing I can do about that. I did
make sure the curtains were not tight against the windows the rest of the
way down to the sill.

(http://cdn.instructables.com/F6R/W9T4/IJM04OYB/F6RW9T4IJM04OYB.LARGE.jpg)

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(http://cdn.instructables.com/FLH/98Q9/IJM04P37/FLH98Q9IJM04P37.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/F3I/0VXI/IJM04P4V/F3I0VXIIJM04P4V.LARGE.jpg)

X
8

padigm (/member/padigm) (author) . mongoose5271 (/member/mongoose5271)

I am so impressed by your drive to find a way to make

these curtains work optimally in your home.
My experience with the curtains that I installed in my
house is that, as long as they are tucked in properly into
the window opening, the amount of condensation is
minimal. However, as I have mentioned before, I live in
an area where nighttime temperatures seldom drop
below 20F, and this certainly contributes to reducing the
buildup of condensation behind
the curtain.

3 days ago

Reply

the curtain.
Over the past few days I have researched various sites
that talk about thermal curtains and even contacted a
few manufacturers of commercial insulating shades.
They nearly all agree that, in very cold climates,
condensation on the cold glass is nearly inevitable, and
that it is the price you need to pay to keep your rooms
warmer and your heating bills down. Many mention that
they keep a squeegee or a towel handy to clear the
condensation when they open the curtains in the
morning.
There is no question though that the tighter the fit of the
vapor barrier in the window opening, the lower the
infiltration of moist air behind the curtain and, as a
consequence, the lower the condensation on the
window pane. Therefore, my recommendation would be
that you adopt in other parts of your house what you did
in the laundry -- that is, make the vapor barrier wider so
that it completely fills the window opening and find a
way to deal in the morning with the reasonable amount
of condensation that forms overnight.
The solution you applied in the bathroom (i.e., removing
the back panel of fleece) is not optimal because it
reduces notable the insulating performance of the
curtain. In fact, the reason why you had less
condensation after making this modification is that
without the back panel the curtain let more heat reach
the window and flow outdoors, and by keeping the
glass warmer this heat hindered the formation of
condensation.
Good luck with your curtains and please do let us
know if you come up with the optimal solution.

GEJG1 (/member/GEJG1)

I had been thinking of something similar to this design for

rooms/doorways that are seldom used
in our house. Planned layers are: window -> 2" gap -> mylar
with silver facing window -> double-layered corrugate
cardboard -> double-layered corrugate cardboard -> mylar
with silver facing room. The idea is I would keep this up year
round. In summer, the mylar would reflect sunlight back out
of the house.
Some questions:
1) I looked at the R value of cardboard, and it seems higher
than polar fleece, so hopefully this will be effective. Your
thoughts? (I have done a few international moves so just
happen to have double layered cardboard out the wazoo)
2) Learned from your Instructable that I would need fabric
around the edges to create a tight seal. Anything other
words of guidance/caution?
3) Brandon mentioned a cracked pane if not taken down
during the day in winter, so I guess there goes my idea of
keeping it up all the time, at least during the cold.
4) Does the plastic sheet HAVE to go behind the first layer
of polar fleece? Or would it be just as effective as long as I
keep a gap between the mylar and the window? (My sills
are 5" deep. I was thinking of affixing this ~2" away from the
window from the top of the sill)
3) Also, is there any additional benefit in putting another
mylar layer on the back, silver part facing the room, to reflect
the heat of the room back and conserve even more energy?
Or should I not bother?
Thanks for the fantastic instructable, I am so excited to start
on my project!!!!

11 days ago

Reply

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8

padigm (/member/padigm) (author) . GEJG1 (/member/GEJG1)

Hello GEGJ1
1) I am sure that a thick piece of corrugated cardboard
should be a better thermal insulator than a layer of polar fleece.
However, I
would be a bit concerned about humidity, especially if you are
planning to
leave this panel up for long periods of time. Unless your
assembly is extremely
tight and prevents the passage of even a minimum amount of
humidity, you will
end up with some condensation on the glass. In the case of the
curtain, this is
not much of a problem because the condensation either
evaporates or is wiped
off when the curtain is rolled up in the morning. However, in your
case, it
will probably accumulate over time and soak into your
cardboard.
I may be wrong, so please give it a try.
If you do end up with a problem with condensation, I would
try a water resistant insulation material such as an extruded
polystyrene
board. They are not very expensive, have a very high R-value,
and are not
affected by humidity.
2) In my case, I use the extra width of the curtain fabric to
press against the sides of the window opening and prevent the
passage of air.
This is a good solution for a curtain that needs to be rolled up
every morning
and rolled down every night, but if you have a more permanent
installation you
could use other materials to seal the perimeter of your insulating
board (e.g.,
rubber foam strip).
3) Please see my answer to Brandons post.
Also, if aesthetics are not a problem (and they should not
really be if you were planning to put a shiny mylar facing the
window), you
could consider spray painting the glass white. The paint has to
be on the
outside pane of your window and block nearly all of the solar
radiation. If
this is not an option and you are very worried about cracking
your windows
(which I assume are double pane), you should try to find another
option to
shade your windows/doors from the outside.
4) The function of the plastic in my curtains is to act as a
vapor barrier. A vapor barrier should be placed closer to the
warm side of
the insulated assembly (i.e., closer to the side which faces your
indoor
space). Since you are planning to have a layer of mylar facing
indoor, this
would act as the vapor barrier on the warm side of the assembly
(i.e., you dont
need to add an additional plastic sheet).
Please note that for insulation purpose, it is generally
recommended to have an air gap that is between 0.5 to slightly
less than 1 inch
(your 2 gaps are too big).
5) Sure, a radiant barrier facing the inside of the room
would be useful from a thermal standpoint. On top of that, it will
act as a vapor
barrier and prevent moisture from penetrating into your
cardboard and
condensing once it reaches the cold side of your assembly.

Reply

6 days ago

Good luck!

GEJG1 (/member/GEJG1) . padigm (/member/padigm)

6 days ago

Reply

Oh my gosh, Padigm, *thank you* for your thoughtful, in-depth replies to all
my questions. Helps me immensely. I will report back with my findings
once I am done (may take me a few weeks, I have a 3 year old and not as
much free time as I would like...)
Thanks again for this great Instructable, you've made a whole lot of
people's lives better!

BrandonM76 (/member/BrandonM76) made it!

a month ago

Reply

I made these curtains according to the kumeproject.com instructions for 4 large

south facing windows this year. They seal out drafts and it feels much warmer to
sit right beside the windows in winter.
Mylar-Layer: I added a mylar layer beside the fleece layer (on the inside) to
eliminate radiant heat loss. I measured that the radiant temperature of these
curtains equals room temperature, completely removing the 'chilling' effect of
standing next to a cold window.
Warning for double-pane windows: During sunny days with cold outdoor
temperatures you MUST roll the curtains up as soon as the sun hits them. My
double-pane window cracked because it was -4 celsius on the outside-pane of
the glass, and 45 celsius between the curtain's fleece layer and the inside-pane
of the glass. Repairing this glass will cost more than my energy savings.

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FDS/H3LB/IIKK8OY4/FDSH3LBIIKK8OY4.LARGE.jpg)

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8

padigm (/member/padigm) (author) . BrandonM76 (/member/BrandonM76)

Hello BrandonM76
I am very sorry to hear about your window.
When I first posted this instructable, there were several
discussions about the possibility of having thermal
stresses crack the window glass. I researched this
issue thoroughly and below are the conclusions that I
came to.
Literature indicates that cracks in double and triple
pane windows can caused by various factors, such as
poor window constructionand design, and thermal
stresses generated by the use of heavily tinted glass
(which gets very hot), the use of very dark window
frames (which heat up and expand much more than the
glass panes), having a window that is partially exposed
to direct sunlight and partially in the shade, and the use
insulating window coverings which increase the
temperature difference across the window unit (for
example, if the curtains are closed on a window that is
exposed to direct sunlight on a cold winter day).
However, given the large number of established
companies that have been selling and installing
insulating curtains and window coverings for years in
harsh climates (and at a fairly steep price - typically 10
to 15 US$ per square foot), I imagine that these types of
failures must be the exception rather than the norm. If
these problems were very common, these companies,
some of which are listed below, would have shut down
a long time ago.

7 days ago

Reply

http://www.ecosmartshades.com/
(http://www.ecosmartshades.com/) - EcoSmart Shades
(claim to have be R-5.0, or 2 times greater resistance to
heat flow than a standard double-pane window)
http://www.windowquilt.com/
(http://www.windowquilt.com/) - Window Quilt (also
claim to be R-5.0)
http://www.hunterdouglas.com/honeycombshades/duette-architella
(http://www.hunterdouglas.com/honeycombshades/duette-architella)
- Hunter Douglas
Furthermore, since I dont believe that my inexpensive
DIY insulating curtains outperform these pricy
commercial models, I dont see any reason why a
window equipped with a Kume curtain would be more
prone to cracking than a window equipped with an
EcoSmart Shade, a Window Quilt or a Hunter Douglas
Honeycomb shade.
Regardless, it is better to be safe than sorry and as a
result I will put a note in the instructable warning users
to avoid leaving the curtains closed on windows that
may be exposed to direct sunlight on a cold winter day.
PS: Could you please let me know which is the window
pane that cracked (inner or outer) and where on the
glass did the crack appear? Thanks.

BrandonM76 (/member/BrandonM76) . BrandonM76 (/member/BrandonM76)

a month ago
You may notice in the picture that I failed to get the
fleece to fit above the top pine battens. That gap at the
top does not leak any cool air (because cool air sinks)
however the gap is causing condensation on the
inside of the glass.

Reply

You guys should aim to do better than I did on this

project.

signeinla (/member/signeinla)

a year ago

Reply

I am wondering if, in fact, something like this could be used to

reduce the heat coming into the house from sunny exposures,
as someone commented below. I think you would have to use
different materials, something reflective. Would you have any
ideas? I love what you have done here and would love to
tweak it a bit for our hot California summers.

skiwolf9 (/member/skiwolf9) . signeinla (/member/signeinla)

Reply

2 months ago
I have two southern exposure windows in two bedrooms. I
bought some 70% shade screen on the internet, 3/4 PVC and
some pvc clips that'll hold the shade cloth to the pvc pipes.
Hung them from the rafters about a foot from the windows. No
more hot rooms in the summer. Did the same thing over the
driveway, cool cars instead of sun blasting them all day,
making them hot as well as uv damage to paint.

X
8

padigm (/member/padigm) (author) . skiwolf9 (/member/skiwolf9)

X
8

padigm (/member/padigm) (author) . signeinla (/member/signeinla)

You are spot on. The best way to reduce the solar heat gain
through a window is by shading it from the outside.

Reply

7 days ago

Reply

During the summer, these curtains can definitely help reduce the a year ago

During the summer, these curtains can definitely help reduce the a year ago
heat load coming from windows that are exposed to direct
sunlight. Having a reflective panel (e.g., aluminized fabric) facing
the window would be best, but this might create some aesthetic
problems since you would be able to see the reflective material
from the room when the curtain is rolled up.
An intermediate solution would be to make the exterior panel
from a light colored fabric (e.g., white or off-white). As a matter of
fact, if you used light colored fabrics for both panels, you would
end up with a translucent curtains that would allow light into the
room when closed. In this way, you would be able to keep much
of the heat from direct sunlight out of the room while still allowing
the room to be illuminated with natural sunlight.
The first curtains I installed in my house had a dark blue panel
facing the window, but even so they were pretty good at blocking
the heat from direct sunlight when closed (I live in Chile where
summers are just like in California). However, this dark blue
backing also blocked off all of the light and basically had the
same effect as a blackout curtain -- the room was pitch dark.

Ernst59 (/member/Ernst59)

a month ago

Reply

Dang it! Had to make one and goof it up to find this. There is
a discrepancy between your listed msrmnts. and your
assembly instructions--- In step #4, you state this:
1) Front panel (and/or back panel)
Width = W + 0.75", height = H + 0.75"
3) Upper batten Length = W - 0.75"
4) Lower battens Length = W - 0.75
Then, in step #8, comes the problem---C) Each side of the front panel should extend by ~3/8" past
the ends of the battens and sides of the plastic sheet.
That should read "should extend by 3/4" past the ends of
the battens", should it not? The panels are 3/4" wider than
the actual window opening, for an overlap/tuck of 3/8" on
either side, and the battens are 3/4" less than the window
opening, for an allowance of 3/8" on either side. In other
words, the width of the panels is 1-1/2" wider than the length
of the battens, so that, when the battens/plastic are centered
on the panels, there should be a 3/4'' overhang on either
side, as opposed to 3/8''.
Clear as mud? The devil in the details and all......
Fortunately, the "goofed" panel is going in a corner window
where only one side of it will be visible. Shouldn't affect it's
operation. Onward with the other 5!
Great shades, looking forward to the finished project!

X
8

padigm (/member/padigm) (author) . Ernst59 (/member/Ernst59)

Reply

a month ago
You are right! Thank you for pointing out that mistake in the
assembly instructions. We had checked and rechecked them,
but never saw that mistake. We have corrected it in the
instructable, so hopefully those coming after you will make
perfect curtains.

Thank you once again, and please post a picture of the

curtains you made.
Cheers!

X
|
8

yellowcatt (/member/yellowcatt)

Using Mylar film (space blanket) for the moisture barrier

should reflect more heat back into the room.

2 months ago

Reply

X
8

padigm (/member/padigm) (author) . yellowcatt (/member/yellowcatt)

Reply

You are perfectly right, using a space blanket as vapor barrier 2 months ago
should improve the design by reducing heat losses by
radiation. The thickness of the blanket or vapor barrier doesn't
matter, as long as the material is tough enough to resist
handling (daily rolling and unrolling) without breaking.
By the way, the instructions for these curtains are available in
metric and US measurements in English, Spanish, Italian and
French at the following website
www.kumeproject.com (http://www.kumeproject.com)
Cheers!

X
8

waltbosz (/member/waltbosz) . yellowcatt (/member/yellowcatt)

Reply

I was thinking the same thing, but are the space blankets thick 2 months ago
enough? The instructable calls for 4mils thick plastic. The
space blankets that I have are very thin ... well like a Mylar
balloon.

X
|
8

yellowcatt (/member/yellowcatt) . waltbosz (/member/waltbosz)

It is a moisture barrier, as long as it stops moisture a slight

dfference in thickness should be unimportant.

Reply

2 months ago

I had to look up the meanng of mils as I was not familiar with

the term. It seems to be an Americanism for a thousandth of an
inch. what the rest of the world would call a thou. I would
rather sick to metric measurements to avoid confusion.

DanieleZ (/member/DanieleZ)

2 months ago

Reply

If you live in a 9m square room with just a window and exit,

insulating the window and the door, will you die from room
oxigen deprivation?

Michael013 (/member/Michael013) . DanieleZ (/member/DanieleZ)

CO2 toxicity would be your first problem, not oxygen. Does

your sealed room contain any calcium oxide (quicklime)?

Reply

2 months ago

DanieleZ (/member/DanieleZ) . Michael013 (/member/Michael013)

I'm not sure about quicklime, but what it has to do with co2 ?
Sure I might die from co2 intoxications like astronauts in
outher space but this takes a long time too don't you think ?
And what if I've got a something to convert my co2 to oxigen:
Like a nice plant ?

Reply

2 months ago

absolutekold (/member/absolutekold) . DanieleZ (/member/DanieleZ)

Reply

To quote "The Martian" movie we're going to have to science 2 months ago
the S@$% (mailto:S@$%) out of this. My previous estimates
weren't wrong but it's true they didn't really take into account
CO2. However before we call NASA to get their space breathy
tech let's see what a problem CO2 really is. While the
numbers vary widely I'm going to settle for a middle of the road
estimate of 200 mL per minute as a persons CO2 "output".
Rather than write another small book I'm just going to attach a
snapshot of a spreadsheet. Those are the raw volumes for an
empty sealed room but like my previous assessments and
even dividing the numbers in half for clutter it's 8 days until
you get to the headache stage. Bottom line if you feel crappy
and you think it's because CO2, Grow some herbs, have some

and you think it's because CO2, Grow some herbs, have some
potted plants, maybe do an aquaponic setup and open the
window / use a fan when the weather doesn't suck. I just
hammered that out in 10 min so there are spelling errors and
the science is pretty loose and fast but it's still in the right
ballpark. If you keep to my air exchange rates in my previous
comment that accounts for 100% of breath volume so it's
overkill.

(http://cdn.instructables.com/F3Z/1YQW/IHZ4N8D7/F3Z1YQWIHZ4N8D7.LARGE.jpg)

Nyxius (/member/Nyxius) . DanieleZ (/member/DanieleZ)

2 months ago

Reply

Air can be bubbled through a solution of quicklime to absorb the CO2 from
the air. CO2 toxicity is a much bigger problem than O2 depletion. We only
consume a small portion of that 500ml worth of O2 with each breath, but
we can only tolerate a 3% change in CO2 levels before it starts to affect
your metabolism and thought processes. The quicklime mechanism is the
old stuff used by astronauts. The new systems rely on the different
thermomechanical properties of CO2 to seperate it from the air
mechanically.

absolutekold (/member/absolutekold) . DanieleZ (/member/DanieleZ)

Well lets do a little math. I've got to make some assumptions

but lets assume you are living in a 9m by 9m by 2m room.
That's 162 Cubic meters or 162,000 L of air minus the volume
of stuff in the room. An average person breathes in 500mL of
air every breath so you've got about 324,000 breaths to
consume that much air. With a relaxed breathing rate of about
20 breaths per minute you'd be in real trouble in just over 11
days if you are alone, in a sealed space of that size and not
prone to becoming excited. Basically you'd die of dehydration
first. Real living spaces have a significant amount of clutter so
lets figure half of the air volume gets eaten by junk, also I'm
going to negate the fact that you don't consume all of the
oxygen each breath to err on the side of safety, you'd still need
to be sealed up for about 5 days. To keep with plenty of air
you need to exchange 0.01m^3 (or 0.35ft^3) per minute. Now I
don't have good numbers for the air exchange for you opening
and closing your door but if you spend a fair amount of your
time out of the room every day I'm not seeing adding some
insulating drapes being what does you in if you haven't
suffocated from living there already. I can tell you that you're
below code for effective ventilation to keep the air quality to a
high standard but unless you're in the worst designed
concrete bunker (who puts a window in one anyway) the
building itself breathes enough to keep you alive with you
occasionally entering and leaving.

DanieleZ (/member/DanieleZ) . absolutekold (/member/absolutekold)

+1 @absolutekold

KzooK1 (/member/KzooK1) . absolutekold (/member/absolutekold)

Awesome post, awesome answer. Thanks for both.

VendicarD (/member/VendicarD) . DanieleZ (/member/DanieleZ)

Do you have duct work?

Reply

2 months ago

Reply

2 months ago

Reply

2 months ago

Reply

2 months ago

2 months ago

Do you have duct work?

DanieleZ (/member/DanieleZ) . VendicarD (/member/VendicarD)

Reply

No mostly here appartements are not equiped with duct work 2 months ago

Engineering (/member/Engineering)

2 months ago

Reply

A lot simpler solution is Silver Bubble insulation found at

most big box hardware stores. As with the curtains these a
little in R value (about 1-4 depending on the brand and
construction), but the biggest savings come reflective
nature of the sliver Mylar for heat in and cold out, the
additional bubbles between do exactly what the curtains
do and they are air tight. Which is why those emergency
silver Mylar blankets work with no insulation.

X
8

padigm (/member/padigm) (author) . Engineering (/member/Engineering)

Reply

You are perfectly right, there are lots of simpler solutions if you 2 months ago
are not concerned with aesthetics or the convenience with
which you are able to open or close the insulating layer over
the windows. In such a case, instead of limiting yourself with
an R-4 silver bubble insulation, you would be better off
covering the window opening with a piece of 2-inch thick
extruded polystyrene (R-20) that is covered with a radiant
barrier.
Please keep in mind that radiant barriers reduce heat losses
or gains by radiation only. Therefore, a radiant barrier always
works better when used in conjunction with a layer of
insulation which is able to reduce heat losses or gains by
conduction.

jeanniel1 (/member/jeanniel1)

2 months ago

Reply

This is great! My bedroom is FREEZING at night, and I

have not only two windows, two large patio sized door /
windows, but four skylights, and no wall or ceiling
insulation (yes, WHAT was the owner thinking - or the
contractor for that matter?!). I'm going to do this for at least
the two windows by the bed, and work to the patio sized
window / door. Great idea.

X
8

padigm (/member/padigm) (author) . jeanniel1 (/member/jeanniel1)

Great! Tell me how it goes and share the idea with your
contacts and friends www.kumeproject.com
(http://www.kumeproject.com)

VendicarD (/member/VendicarD)

Reply

2 months ago

2 months ago

Reply

2 months ago

Reply

1. You are right. My source - a window manufacturer - was

wrong.
Hmmmmm...
10 **-7 it is.

VendicarD (/member/VendicarD)

The mean free path of an air molecule at STP is around 2.5

cm.
Gaps smaller than that permit air molecules to jump
through the gap and transfer energy from one side to the

through the gap and transfer energy from one side to the
other. The smaller the gap the greater the heat exchange.
Dead air spaces should be designed to be 2.5 cm or larger.
Larger gaps of around 7 cm or larger will permit convection
in the gap which will also reduce the insulating factor.
Covering a window with any kind of plastic - paper - tinfoil whatever that creates a dead air space of 2.5 cm to 6 or 7
cm will produce a dramatic insulating effect and typically
reduce heat loss through the window by 40 percent or so.
Translucent or transparent material should be sued so that
sunlight can enter during the daylight hours.
Plastic drop cloth works well and is typically translucent. A
$9.00 roll will do an entire house for a couple of years if
you throw it out each spring.
But why do that?
These curtains are not a bad idea at all. They will do the
job, but they are not required for window insulation.

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8

padigm (/member/padigm) (author) . VendicarD (/member/VendicarD)

Reply

2 months ago

VendicarD - Here are my comments to your post.

1) The mean free path of air molecules at STP is
approximately 0.00001 cm.
2) The optimal thickness of an air gap for insulation is
approximately 12 mm (about 0.5 inch). This is the reason why
this is the distance between glass panes that is normally used
in the millions of double-pane windows that are manufactured
each year around the world.
3) You are perfectly right when you say that covering a
window with a plastic film greatly reduces heat losses,
however the logic behind using insulating curtains is as
follows: Since most windows are covered with curtains, why
not use these elements to further reduce heat losses through
the windows? Regardless the kind of windows you have
(single-pane, single-pane with plastic film, double-pane,
double-pane with plastic film, etc.), covering them with
effective insulating curtains will keep your house warmer and
your heating costs down.

Anthony. (/member/Anthony.)

2 months ago

Reply

It seems like a good idea, particularly in rural areas, but it

looks like it cannot be rolled up to see outside on a mild
day, or am i wrong? Can it be used like any shade that rolls
up and down?

KzooK1 (/member/KzooK1) . Anthony. (/member/Anthony.) 2 months ago

Reply

You can make a sling to roll it up & down.

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FAO/Y2FG/IHS3REFV/FAOY2FGIHS3REFV.LARGE.jpg)

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8

padigm (/member/padigm) (author) . Anthony. (/member/Anthony.)

Reply

It basically works like a roller blind: the only difference is that 2 months ago
you need to roll it up by hand.
There is nothing really rural about these blinds. You can make

There is nothing really rural about these blinds. You can make
them as pretty or ugly, as rural or urban as you want.

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FAO/NX5F/IHQK1FLH/FAONX5FIHQK1FLH.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FQ8/46F8/IHQK1FLI/FQ846F8IHQK1FLI.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FNL/0VBH/IHQK1FLL/FNL0VBHIHQK1FLL.LARGE.jpg)

Brian H (/member/Brian H)

2 months ago

Reply

Here's another "trick" -- Set a small fan on the floor in a

corner, directed upwards, pointed at the corner. Leave on
24/7.
This is a quick version of the pro version, a hollow corner
column containing a fan. The effect of either is to mix hot
ceiling air with cold floor air, making an even, comfortable
temp throughout. Saves up to 40% heating OR cooling!

kandie.watson.56 (/member/kandie.watson.56) . Brian H (/member/Brian H)

2 months ago
Brian H
there are 3 of us college students living in a old
shotgun house, we only have wall heater with 3" fans
in them ( there installed, look like there space heater)
we use box fans to circulate but there isn't one in
kitchen n appears to be no insulation anywhere,
hardwood floors etc ...
Anymore cheap cheap ideas for some broke college
students

Reply

KzooK1 (/member/KzooK1) . kandie.watson.56 (/member/kandie.watson.56)

X
8

Wall tapestries will help. Look for a local carpet store, 2 months ago
you should be able to get remnants cheap. If they're
small, sew several together to make a larger rug or
tapestry. You can also just hang sheets or blankets
on the walls; even something thin will help some.

Reply

padigm (/member/padigm) (author) . Brian H (/member/Brian H)

Reply

2 months ago

Please not that whatever trick you use to mix the hot air that
naturally rises to ceiling with the rest of the air in the room, you
will still save energy by losing less heat through your windows
(and walls, and roof and floor, may I add).

NIESAMON (/member/NIESAMON) . Brian H (/member/Brian H)

Save gas :D Loose electric :( Im still going to try it tho Ha HA

Reply

2 months ago

jpayton (/member/jpayton) . NIESAMON (/member/NIESAMON)

Actually using a fan to mix air by pretty much any method

provides better heat usage then the electricity that it uses. I
personally use ceiling fans as they get the warm air moving
into the cold. The difference is probley non-existant but it feels
warmer to me. But I have poorly insulated floors so that might
be some of it.

suancol (/member/suancol)

Reply

2 months ago

2 months ago

Reply

2 months ago

Reply

Since I suffer with SAD I am always aware of needing

natural light. I put a polar fleece curtain liner behind my
curtains. No hemming except attaching it to liner tape from
sewing store. Cuts heat gain and heat loss amazingly and
very simple and easily done. Can be moved to new home
too. For summer heat, as many people said, block it before
it enters the house with blinds or vines. For winter heat
retention add a pelmet above the curtain or a rolled up
towel as warm air sneaks behind the curtain and is cooled
down quickly. Carpet on the floors helps too.

Elusiverick (/member/Elusiverick)

Simply brilliant PADIGM, you have taken an existing

concept & improved on it out-a-sight !
There is a business right here !
You can hear my sewing machine in the background !

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8

padigm (/member/padigm) (author) . Elusiverick (/member/Elusiverick)

Reply

I agree with you that this can be turned into a wonderful little 2 months ago
business. Each curtain needs to be tailor-made to fit perfectly
inside the window opening, so I don't think they can be mass
produced. However, it can make for a great custom business.
I hope you'll be successful and keep lots of customers nice
and warm during the winter ... as well as a bit richer.
Post pictures of what you make. Below is one that we made
for my daughter's room

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FP5/83ZH/IHQK1QVL/FP583ZHIHQK1QVL.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FJN/NDLN/IHQK1QWV/FJNNDLNIHQK1QWV.LARGE.jpg)

Elusiverick (/member/Elusiverick) . padigm (/member/padigm)

Stylish and functional, did you notice a big difference with &

Reply

2 months ago

Stylish and functional, did you notice a big difference with &
without ?

2 months ago

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