The Tome of Foam

Foam Fighting Training Guide

By
The Maestro of the Realm of Grond
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Table of Contents
Dedication and Special Thanks
Chapter One-

Basic Ready Position

Part 1- Physical Fitness
Part 2- Pre Practice Warm Up
Part 3- The Mental Game
Part 4- Attitude
Part 5- Seshi & Teshi
Part 6- Natural Principles
Part 7- En Guard

Chapter Two-

Basic Footwork
Part 1- Footwork Advice
Part 2- Basic Footwork Actions
Part 3- Improving Quality
Part 4- Utilizing Footwork

Chapter Three-

The Basic Strike

Part 1- The Weapon
Part 2- Grips
Part 3- The Strike
Part 4- Power
Part 5- The Thrust
Part 6- Other Basic Attacks

Chapter Four-

9 Angles of Attack
Part 1- 1-9
Part 2- Body Angles

Chapter Five-

Basic Guard
Part 1- The A Frame

Chapter Six-

Wards
Part 1- Warding

Chapter Seven-

Blade Actions
Part 1- Unlimited Actions
Part 2- Parries
Part 3- Basic Parries
Part 4- Advanced Parries
Part 5- Parry Qualities
Part 6- Feinting

Chapter Eight-

Advanced Strikes
Part 1- Combo Shots
Part 2- Wraps
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Chapter Nine-

Advanced Options
Part 1- Footwork
Part 2- Actions
Part 3- Controlling the Opponent
Part 4- The Long Haul
Part 5- Advanced Grips

Chapter Ten-

Shields
Part 1- Shield Types
Part 2- Shield Shapes
Part 3- Passive
Part 4- Dynamic

Chapter Eleven-

Controls and Grappling

Part 1- Lets Get Physical
Part 2- Controls
Part 3- Grappling
Part 4- Photos of Techniques

Chapter Twelve-

Advice for Fighting & the Four Branches

Part 1- Flails
Part 2- Reds
Part 3- Polearms
Part 4- Archers
Part 5- Armor & Shields
Part 6- Advantage/Disadvantage

Chapter Thirteen-

Teamwork and Line Fighting

Part 1- Key Concepts
Part 2- Line Combat Roles
Part 3- Choosing Optimal Loadouts
Part 4- Three Essential Formations
Part 5- Two Basic Strategies

Chapter Fourteen-

Drills & Games

Part 1- Footwork
Part 2- Strikes & Blocks
Part 3- Shielding
Part 4- Grappling

Chapter Fifteen-

Q&A

Chapter Sixteen-

Realm Crafting
Part 1- The Problems
Part 2- Things a Great Realm Has
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Chapter Seventeen-

Training
Part 1- The Stages of Training
Part 2- Girls
Part 3- Using this Book

Chapter Eighteen-

Conclusion

Dedication
To my wife for feigning interest in this to spare my feelings, tolerating almost all of my crap, generally
being the love of my life, and giving me my beautiful children who fill me with indescribable joy.

Special Thanks
To compile this work in just three months was a monumental task.
This work would not have been possible without the help of those foam fighters who have at times
been my opponents, teachers, teammates, punching bags, sounding boards, weapon builders, students,
comrades, and always- friends.
Those who directly assisted with this work to varying degreesChris Nenharma Weir
James Volker Wagner
Mike Templehoff Apok Ingersoll
Paul Calediah Beckman
Maxwell Bluff Brook
The realms of
Grond
and
Wolfpack of the High Plains.

To these and so many more,

Thank You.

Preface
This work was conceived as a guide book for realms or individuals without access to interrealm support structures or teachers. The book is designed to challenge beginner to intermediate
players, and give all aspiring trainers and scholars a strong foundation on which to build. The
viewpoints and methods presented here are not at all the only valid ones, but were selected for their
ease of understanding and ability to prepare the fighter to grow and progress further at a later time.
Consequently, many of these principles and instructions are purposefully vague and general.
Care should be taken to read and reread the volume, as many points and concepts can only be
properly understood after much study and experience. Applying these tactics and techniques is not a
simple or straightforward matter, and the book will not yield a large change in your fighting skill
quickly. But if the lessons and principles are applied studiously, with care and purpose, slowly adding a
bit at a time, always paying for any gain in skill with equal value in sweat and blood, it is then that you
will begin to make progress and see a change in your game.
Reference this work often and seek other worthy works of martial instruction as well. What
seemed difficult or obscure to the beginner is familiar and comfortable to the veteran.
On training in general, always focus the majority of your efforts on the most basic techniques.
These yield the greatest result and profit.
Never stop searching for new knowledge. To do so or to foolishly believe that you know
everything you need to know already is to stagnate, damning yourself and your progress. Keep with the
training, continue learning, and walk in the way. Ill look for you on the field.

The Maestro

Chapter One- The Basic Ready Position

Part one- Physical Fitness

In the practice of any sport, even if engaged in a relaxed and recreational attitude, preparation of
one's body as the tool of that sport is essential. There are numerous online, periodical, and literary
sources you may utilize to progress in this area. Even if you are mainly drawn for the role-playing
elements, foam fighting is still a physical activity, a form of sport. This makes you, whether you want
to be or not, an athlete. Congratulations. Now to condense everything I just said into a marketable glib;
Get a workout routine and stay in shape. The benefits are simply too numerous to mention. Train like
an athlete. If nothing else, simply practice running as you will no doubt do a good deal of it on the
field.
But strengthening oneself is not enough. A fighter must also become intimately knowledgeable
about his weaknesses. These are not to be considered a source of shame. Everyone has different flaws
and shortcomings; the only sin is to ignore these faults in your training and planning. A good fighter
does not have to be the strongest and the fastest and the most technically proficient. One common trait
in all the greats in any field is their familiarity with their strengths and weaknesses. These might
necessitate a change or alteration in ones tactics, but should not discourage a fighter.

Part Two- Pre Practice Warm Up

There are a few quick and simple ways to warm up and help avoid injury during practice. Your
warm up should always consist of three phases, though how much or how little is entirely dependent on
the player involved.
Begin with a light work such as a game or calisthenics to warm the muscles and ligaments.
Once you feel sufficiently warmed up begin a meticulous full body stretch starting at the neck and
working your way down. The final phase of the warm up is to bring the body and mind together into
complete focus, or in other words; to get in the mood for battle. A few light rounds of dueling with a
friend can be fine, or if you prefer a 5 min session of practicing your footwork and strikes
shadowboxing style.
For specific examples, you may find more than you can possibly ever use on the internet,
therefore we will not go into too many specifics here. Find a style of preparation that works for you.
Sample warm up
1. 4-5 min passing a ball or Frisbee around
2. Neck circles
3. Shoulder shrugs
4. Arm circles
5. Touch the toes
6. Sit down cross legs reach far forward
7. Open legs wide, hurdlers stretch
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8. Lay on stomach, push up while keeping hips down

9. 20 pushups, jumping jacks
10. 4-5min single blue or sword and board
However you choose to warm up, it should not tax your energy and stamina too greatly. By the end you
should just be breaking a sweat.

Part Three- The Mental Game

Foam Fighting is a sport. Foam Fighting is a martial art. You'll likely hear both arguments, for
and against, if you stay in the game very long. Either way it is undeniable that there is a mental aspect
to the activity. This work will not go into great elaboration on these matters as it is intended as a
training manual and reference for a beginner/ intermediate level. There are however a few books that
the author has found to be of great use in supplementing the actual practice.
1.
The Art of War by Sun Tzu
2.
The Art of Peace by Morihei Ueshiba
3. The Unfettered Mind by Takuan Soho
4. Moving Toward Stillness by Dave Lowry
5. Zen in the Martial Arts by Joe Hyams
6. The Book of Five Rings by Miyamoto Mushashi
7.
The Inner Game of Fencing by N. Evangelista

Part Four- Attitude

Your own experience can be 100% within your control. Make sure the attitude you bring to your
practice is the one you want to be known for. Your attitude will affect those around you in ways both
profound and subtle.
That being said here are a few easy tips to make the most of your first few months of practice.
1.
2.
3.
4.

Dont set unrealistic goals for yourself.

Be inquisitive. Ask questions.
Trust those who have gone before, but never blindly follow.
Get involved.

Something else to consider is the fire. The fire is an inner drive that forces you into action and
causes a deep and lasting love of the game. You either have it or you dont. Through training and desire
you can acquire it. It is the unseen factor in unlocking your true potential.
There is a story concerning a master and a student that illustrates this point rather well.
As the student was preparing to compete, he noticed a famous master of his art walk in and sit
among the spectators. Resolving that he would give the performance of his life and then try to get an
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evaluation from this renowned master, the student stepped up and threw his whole heart and soul into
the action.
When it was over he approached the master and introduced himself, inquiring what the master
thought of his skill and potential. The master looked straight into the eyes of the student and said
simply, You lack the fire.
Crestfallen, the student soon after abandoned the art and pursued a successful life in business.
Years later he ran into the master again at a social function and approached him.
You probably dont remember me, said the former student, but you changed my life. When he
recounted for the master what had happened then and since, the master looked slightly embarrassed.
Oh, he said, I hardly watched you at all that day. I just say that to all my pupils when they ask me
for an evaluation.
The former student was shocked and then enraged. You completely discouraged me! I could
have been excellent! I might even have been the greatest someday!
Thats possible, said the master in a gentle reproach. But if you really had the fire my words
wouldnt have mattered to you, would they? No, no ones would have. You would have kept on going
anyway because you had an unquenchable fire in your heart driving you on.
Oh. said the former student before he walked quietly away.

Part Five- Seshi & Teshi

In all things but especially the ready position, as you are preparing for combat, remember the
lesson of Seshi and Teshi. Seshi is a Japanese word best translated as Living Stillness, Teshi on the
other hand means Dead Stillness. Imagine two trees next to one another in a field. One is alive, with
green leaves, thick bark, and a sense of vibrant life around it. The other is dead, its branches bare and a
sense of rot and stagnancy. Though neither tree moves, they couldnt be more different.
When two fighters face each other in readiness with one expressing Seshi and the other Teshi,
the outcome is never in any doubt though they fight a thousand times. Express Seshi, a living vibrancy
that is awake and aware, though still and calm, and you will be ready for anything that should come.
It is difficult to believe when one is a beginner, but the mind can tend to wander and lose focus
even in the midst of combat. Part of your measurement as a fighter is how well you are able to maintain
and direct your focus. Yet if you allow yourself to become too heated and excited it can result in other
undesirable conditions. Tunnel vision, where you lose track of everything not directly in your line of
sight is one such

Part Six- Natural Principles

Principle is the key thing. Principles give birth to strategies. Strategies give rise to tactics.
Tactics evolve into individual techniques. Understanding principles is the task most useful in fighting.
Even though you may memorize all the tactics, strategies and techniques that you can, but without truly
grasping and internalizing the basic principles underlying them, you will eventually come up short.
The guiding principles for all combat are as follows;
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1.

All warfare is based on deception.

Build deception into everything you do as a fighter. Deception only helps.

2.

Strength is best applied through leverage.

You may be stronger than your opponent, or you may not. For those who understand the
principle of leverage, it doesnt matter very much at all.
3.

Do nothing that is not of value.

This principle guides training but it also refers to strategy, directing a fighter towards
simplicity in all things.
4.

Live the Virtues.

This principle means to exemplify those qualities considered by the fighter to be of
value. Many common examples include honor and honesty, patience, cunning, discipline, bravery,
loyalty, skillfulness, kindness, and sportsmanship. Whatever your personal code, let it shine through in
all that you do. Not to do so is the basest hypocrisy, and will only drag you down.
5.

Control the Distance and the Tempo.

Distance is the space between you and your target as well as the opponent and his target.
Tempo refers to the rhythm and timing of the fight. One fighter will, by default, be in control of these
elements. That fighter holds a devastating advantage over his opponent.

Part Seven- En Guard

The Basic Ready Position or B.R.P. is the attitude of the body in its highest state of flexibility,
solid grounding, and readiness.
This is the B.R.P. It is presented thus for a right handed person;
1. Begin standing erect with the feet together, hands relaxed at your side, head up, spine straight.
(a, b)
2. Open the feet out to a comfortable distance, about shoulder width.
3. With the right leg, take a casual step forward.(c)
4. Turn out the toe and knee of the rear leg 30 to 45 degrees.
5. BEND YOUR KNEES. (d)
6. Raise your arms without tension in the shoulders until your hands are in front of your shoulders.
They should be about a foot fore of the corresponding shoulder. (e, f)
7. Maintain, as much as you are able, a straight back and a relaxed supple tension in the whole
body.

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This particular formula for the B.R.P. is based on fencing stance and footwork, and is not the
only way. But it is a simple and effective way, suitable for any beginner. It is from this position, or one
very like it, that you will find the balance point of all those qualities a fighter will need to bring to bear.
Whatever ready position you adopt it must be able to grant you solid footing while also
allowing for quick movements in any direction. It must simultaneously prepare you for action by
bracing the body and settle the mind providing a degree of flexibility only maintained through a relaxed
readiness.

Chapter Two- Basic Footwork

Part One- Footwork Advice

With regards to footwork, it would be hard to point to any one martial or sport tradition and say
definitively; They have it all; perfect for any situation. The world is a large place, full of new
occurrences constantly. One should never think that one knows it all or has seen it all. The fighter that
does this, despite whatever skill they do possess, has cut himself off from progress and stays at home in
his small world of familiar and repetitive ideas.
Footwork is everything. If you devote the majority of your time in footwork training you will
have a considerable advantage over any other opponent on the field. Footworks importance cannot be
overstated. There are hundreds of martial arts and classical arts that all have contributed to the vast
body of footwork knowledge now held by the human race. Footwork is the greatest measure of any
fighter.

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When training in footwork always remember that its purpose is to deliver you wherever you
need to go at just the right time. In other words, it is freedom we strive for. The freedom to go where
you need to, when you need to. Whoever has the best footwork will control the distance; whoever
controls distance controls the battle.
When practicing the individual techniques of footwork, here are a few good lessons hard earned
by many trips through the gates of both victory and defeat.
1. Always return back into a ready position after every footwork action. The B.R.P. should be as
constant a state as possible.
2. Keep as balanced as possible, as low as necessary.
3. Small is fast, big is slow.
4. Use your position to give you advantage over your opponent.
5. Don't get caught flat footed.
6. Stay calm no matter the situation.
7. Footwork can be large and slow or small and fast, but it should always be appropriate to the
situation.

Part two- Basic Footwork Actions

Basic footwork actions are the building blocks of your footwork game. It is not strictly
necessary to understand or know every technical term to have excellent footwork.
1. Advance- Step with forefoot first, small and quick lifting the front toe. Follow immediately with
rear foot, returning to B.R.P. These should usually be small and quick.

The Advance

2. Retreat- As advance, but reversed. Try to reach back with the rear leg and open the distance,
pulling yourself out of harms way.
3. Crossover- A passing step. Step rear foot forward to the toe of lead foot and then step forward
with the lead foot back into B.R.P. Be careful not to tangle the feet together.
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The Crossover

4. Lunge- Take a large step with fore foot, pushing with rear foot, extending the rear leg. Stop
when rear leg is fully extended, and the front foot lands under the front knee. Recovery to
B.R.P. Can be made forwards, backwards, or centrally. Do not lean forward when lunging.
Make sure the arm goes first before the foot.

The Lunge

5. Slide- A lateral step, either side. Do not cross your feet and become tangled. Usually used in a
45 degree step in order to find openings in the opponents defense.

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The Slide

6. Reassemble- To pull the forefoot back to the rear, usually avoiding an attack to the leg.

7. Stalk- To take passing steps to advance upon the opponent.

The Stalk

8. Void- A void is not an actual technique; it refers to dodging an attack by moving the target out
of the way. There are diverse ways and means of voiding.

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Nen voiding an attack by Maestro.

Once the basic movements are learned, it is important for the fighter to practice them separately,
together, and in various combinations. This will teach the fighter how to move and alter his movement
at will.
It is important to maintain a dynamic ready position, as opposed to a static one. Never stand still
toe to toe with anyone and try to fight. While maintaining your position your foot work should be in
continuous motion. Even if you are not actually moving back, forth, or sideways, it is important that the
opponent be unsure. If you are holding position, keep a light active bounce on your toes, much as a
boxer would. Think Apollo or Ali, not Rocky or Tyson. When a fighters feet are still he is a stationary
target, and very easy to hit. By staying in constant, near random motion, you build deception into your
footwork and body placement and hide your intentions.

Part Three- Improving Quality

Ones footwork is measured by three dimensions aside from technical execution. When in
training or practice strive to grow in each of these dimensions, not relying on tricks alone.
1. Endurance- endurance is an essential quality in any fighter especially where footwork is
concerned. There are a variety of ways and means to develop your endurance for the fight so
that you can maintain quick controlled motions and gain the upper hand. Running,
calisthenics, cardio workouts, jump rope, any and all of these if practiced faithfully and
consistently will yield results.
2. Quickness- speed is notoriously difficult to train into a human being. Speed refers to how
fast you are able to go from point A to point B. Speed is good. Quickness is better.
Quickness refers to a combination of speed and timing which can only come from
experience and consistent training. You dont have to be faster, you just have to be there at
the right time. The best explanation is perhaps the lesson of the jump rope; when jumping
rope, both the rope and the feet are moving and even though the rope always moves faster,
the rope doesnt catch the feet.
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3. Agility- The importance of agility in fighting cannot be overstated. Your ability to move
well is necessary to back up and supplement both offense and defense. Do not limit your
training in this area to only a few specific movements. Explore the totality of possibilities
that exist for the human body in motion. A very simple training aid is an agility ladder,
readily available at many retailers and there are hundreds of examples of its varied uses
available online.*
*(Youtube.com search; ladder footwork drills)

Part Four- Utilizing Footwork

Footwork is your first line of defense. Though we will cover the use of blocks and shields later
in this work you may consider being forced to rely solely on blocking, (even superb blocking) as a
failure on your part.
Adequate footwork should be all that is needed to deliver a good fighter from an incoming
attack. Specifically, blocks and parries should almost never be used to safeguard the legs. Footwork
defends your legs. Regardless of the target, the safest method for defense in any situation is not to be
there. Of course evasion is not always possible, nor is it always the best tactical strategy, but it is the
safest.
Good footwork has one purpose, to control and manipulate distance. Strive to know intimately
what tactics and techniques work well for you at every distance. Knowing your distance and being able
to accurately judge the distances of your opponent will allow you to control the timing of battle, giving
you an almost unbeatable advantage.
By closing distance, you can alter the angles of the fight causing difficulty to your opponent in
several ways. By opening the distance, you force the opponent to extend himself out pursuing you,
opening his target areas to counter attacks.
There are chiefly three distances a good fighter will concern himself with.
1. Outer- a larger distance where the opponent cannot, with one single step in, strike the
other.
2. Middle- that distance wherein either opponent may strike the other with only one step
in.
3. Inner- The distance that the opponent may strike without any movement.

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The Outer Distance

The Middle Distance

The Inner Distance

There are also two sides to every opponent, based on which hand primarily wields his weapon.
For a right handed fighter, the left side of his body is referred to as his live side, as it is here that he is
able to most efficiently organize and apply his powers of offense and defense. The other side, outside
his body on the right, is known as the dead side because of the increased difficulty in applying his
power there. The use of good footwork to deliver techniques at his dead side while keeping him in your
own live side will greatly increase your own effectiveness.
17

Volker in Nens live side.

Volker in Nens dead side.

When utilizing footwork, offensive and defensive techniques must be paired harmoniously with
footwork and distance. A competent fighter will always take the distance into account. It is basic and
essential to the way of strategy.

Chapter Three- The Basic Strike

Part One- The Weapon
The single blue weapon approximating a sword may come in many different sizes and forms,
for the purpose of this work however we will focus on the small sword, between 32 and 36 inches long
in total, at least 12 ounces in weight. The single sword has six parts.
1. Pommel- The secured non striking surface on the bottom of the grip
2. Grip or handle- The area by which the weapon is wielded
3. Guard- An optional area just above the grip
4. Forte- the lower half of the weapon; the strong
5. Foible- The upper half of the weapon; the weak
6. Kiss- the optimum striking area of the blade, the last 5- 6 inches

Part Two- Grips

There are many different ways of gripping a weapon and each has a place and time that it is
optimal.
1. Hammer- Closed fist grip, the handle of the weapon lay along the four fingers and curled into a
tight fist. Strong, but lacks any finger tip control.
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2. Natural- the ideal grip for 99% of situations. The handle is held more by the three last digits
while being manipulated by a thumb and forefinger lightly in contact with each other.
3. Saber- As the natural, but the thumb is opposite the fore finger and the blade is pinched between
them. This grip gives the most tip control, but it is also the weakest grip, as the tip is
manipulated solely by the first finger and thumb rocking it back and forth. The supporting digits
must be kept loose.

Hammer

Natural

Saber

When training begins, utilize the natural grip first and foremost. Secure the weapon to the hand
by primarily the last three digits, (pinkie, ring, and middle) and steer or guide the tip mainly by the
thumb and first finger. This balanced grip will allow the fighter to transfer the most power while
maintaining a good level of control. Do not crush the grip with much force until you are actively
striking. Try to hold the weapon lightly but firmly.
As you come to understand the grips better, as well as the situations and purposes they can best
be used for, you will be able to switch into and out of them as you fight, with hardly any conscious
effort on your part.

Part Three- The Strike

The basic strike is made by holding the sword in the leading hand while in B.R.P.
Make a straight punching motion with the hand, driving the Kiss into the target area with a quick snap.
Then return as quickly as possible. Always make your strikes with minimalism in mind. The smaller
your actions the less opportunity is given to the opponent. Be sure to strike or hit, not to slash or follow
through. If you miss, you should not end up very far past your intended target area.
As you strike, take a small step with the leading foot, timing the step to land with the blow or
shortly after. Try not to telegraph your intention to strike, nor the timing thereof. The action should
come from nothing and nowhere. Return to B.R.P. as quickly as possible.
Keep all the action and motion of the strike behind the tip of the sword. Try to avoid trailing the
tip or leading with the hand in a slashing manner. Try to avoid drawing back before attacking forward,
as this will signal your opponent that your attack is imminent.
19

When beginning to make strikes, practice almost exclusively with strikes at a 45 degree angle or
less to the deltoids and lower on the opponent, avoiding the no mans land between his shoulders where
the head and face could be put at risk.

The Strike

A beginners strike will have a profile almost totally round in shape. The natural inclination is to
slash the blade, not to strike. As he improves his coordination and efficiency, the shape of his strike will
become more and more linear in nature.
20

Now, after everything that has just been said, return to simplicity. In the way of training one
must learn and forget, learn and forget. Return to simplicity. Just hit the target.

Part Four- Power

Generating power is not something that should be stressed at the earlier stages of training, but a
good training regiment plans for the future by laying the groundwork in the present.
Beginning players should work first to control the weapon with the fingers and wrist, then to
drive forward with shoulder, hip, and feet to gradually add power into their strikes. After an appropriate
amount of training, the strike should be driven forward simultaneously by the snap of the tip, punching
motion of the arm, driving of the shoulder and hip, and slight boxers twist of the foot.
All these motions should have their culmination of power together at the same place, at the
same moment. The motions may be large or small depending on the level of power that is needed for a
particular strike. Is it any wonder this would be too much for the beginner?

Part Five- The Thrust

Brother to the strike, and arguably preferable, is the thrust. The thrust is delivered in a similar
manner to the Strike, except that the tip is stabbed into the target. This concentrates force, slims down
the offensive profile, and delivers a faster, more direct action to the target. This is best used in
conjunction with the lunge.

21

The Thrust
The thrust may be delivered with the hand in pronation (fingers up), or supine (fingers down).
When thrusting do not lock the elbow, keep it flexible. This allows the arm to collapse under enough
pressure, cushioning the thrust and protecting your weapon and body from damage. The thrust may be
accompanied by a lunge to allow for a greater reach. The thrust or stab should not be encouraged in
beginners.

Supine

Pronation

Part Six- Other Basic Attacks

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The Parry/Riposte, consists of a block or parry followed up by an immediate attack. The block
should stop the attacks energy and momentum, and the parry should be launched into the moment the
opponent begins to withdraw from his initial assault but before any renewed aggression or defense can
be established.

The Parry/Riposte

The Counter Attack is an attack in response to an attack. Counter Attacks have three timings;
before the opponents attack is fully realized, as the attack is coming in, or just after the attack has
played out. All counter attacks require anticipation of the attack, and highly fine tuned timing,
accuracy, and distance control. Counter attacks are most often to the arm.

The Counter Attack

The Time Attack, also known as a stop hit, is a variant counter attack made in response to a
slow, predictable, or delayed attack. It is an attack at a target such as the wrist of the attacking hand,
simultaneously halting the opponents motion and scoring a blow. Or it could be directed at the body,
by voiding the attack.

23

The Time Attack or Stop Hit

The Dig is an attack, usually delivered as a thrust, after the opponent blocks an initial attack.
The angle of the wrist is altered sharply in towards the target area and the attack is delivered around the
block. This has the advantage of usually controlling the opponents blade.

A Dig

Chapter Four- The Nine Angles of Attack

Part one- 1-9
A strike always has an angle, in one of the nine angles of attack. These angles are the
historically taught angles found in western or European swordsmanship. The names of these angles are
not really important, and many in the modern work have substituted the numbers for those of the
clocks face for ease of memory. Either is acceptable; choose whichever best fits your sensibilities. For
this work, the classical style was selected for both the angles of attack and the corresponding blocks
and parries.
As you look at the opponent, the angles are as follows, moving from outwards in towards his
center. These are the lines as expressed on the whole body. These lines may also be expressed in a more
limited way against any specific target.

24

1. One or Prime. The angle from the upper right, over the shoulder. The first instinctive strike of a
right handed fighter.

2. Two or Seconde. The angle 180 degrees around from Prime. From below on the left, target is
usually the opponents sword arm or flank.

3. Three or Tierce. The horizontal plane coming in from the left.

4. Four or Quarte. The angle horizontal coming from the right.

25

5. Five or Quante. The central angle descending straight down. Targets pictured are the
chest/shoulder and the fore leg.

6. Six or Sixte. The angle from the upper left, over the shoulder.

7. Seven or Septime. The angle from below on the right. Target is usually wrist or inside of leg.

8. Eight or Octave. The angle ascending straight up, or an attack to the outside of the leg
26

9. Nine or Nuemvie. The straight thrust or direct stabbing angle.

Most of these angles of attack should be voided. To void an attack is to dodge utilizing footwork
so the strike passes by you rather than relying solely on the corresponding parries. Always remember
that no matter how good an attack may be, if it cant reach you it is useless. For more details on the
parries see chapter seven, part four; The Advanced Parries.

Part Two- Body Angles

A competent fighter manipulates not only the weapons angles, but also the angle and direction
he will approach and attack his opponent. The greatest block only covers one or two angles at a time.
The widest shield only protects from one direction. Do not be troubled by elaborate defenses, stay
mobile and move in appropriate ways.
Rather than attacking head on, sometimes it is better to come in at 45 degree angles if possible.
Choose your angles carefully, and utilize excellent controlled footwork to move where and how you
desire.

Chapter Five- The Basic Guard

Part One- The A Frame
When utilizing the BRP, there are many sorts of ready positions each with their own tactical
uses. However, all of them fall into two categories, Guards and Wards.
A Guard is a static attitude or stance with the sword closing off one of the lines of attack. Its
main concern is defense. Guards are highly defensive in their initial orientation but always a guard is
ready at any time to lash out offensively.
The basic guard is known as the A-Frame defense. This consists of standing in the BRP and
holding the sword slightly outward, tilted inwards at roughly 60 degrees, as though it were one side of a
capital A. If the arm is moved across the body to form the other side of the A shape, it will cover
27

that side instead. Be sure that the knuckles of the weapon hand are turned out slightly, so that any
attack will meet the weapon or knuckles first. This guard will cover the upper body almost completely
with very little motion required for blocking, while also allowing for quick offensive strikes in a variety
of angles.

The A-Frame defense, (both sides)

Combined with excellent footwork this guard will prove sufficient for almost any basic
engagement. Attempt to master this guard as your default fallback position and your game will benefit
from the strong defensive advantage this gives. The A-Frame is also the basic ready position when
introducing a shield into training.

Chapter Six- Wards

Part One- Warding
A ward is both related and dissimilar to a guard. Unlike a guard, a ward is more active and
dynamic, and is designed to interfere with multiple lines of attack before the opponents attack can be
fully realized. If the Guard is a concrete wall, the Ward is a claymore antipersonnel mine.
Most guards have the blade held in a neutral or defensive position. Wards almost always take an
offensive angle with the blade, threatening with the point of the weapon or cocked back, ready to
launch a strike. Most wards also offer a tempting and obvious target designed to draw the attack into a
predictable line. The ward is usually purposely built to capitalize on this action.
28

1. Ox- A highline ward with the tip threatening the opponent, keeping the arm extended and
the target area well back from the opponent.

Ox
2. Longpoint- A midline Ox. The tip held towards the opponent, forte being used to interfere
in any attacks or responses. This is the most common ward found in foam fighting.

Longpoint
3. Lowpoint- Also known as the fools guard, this low line variation has the tip pointed down
at the ground or the opponents toe. The threat comes from the potential parry riposte or time
attack.

Lowpoint

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4. Dague- A high guard, with the sword chambered at the shoulder, the elbow held back.

Dague

5. Hidden- A high, mid, or low line, with the blade hidden behind the body. Very risky,
requiring advanced distance, timing, and nerve.

Hidden Ward Variants, high, mid and low lines

6. Boar- A ward with the off foot forwards, the sword held back, either behind the shield or
the off hand held up to be sacrificed for a counter stab or strike.

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Boar

7. Nen- A ward similar to Ox, but with the arm across the chest, with the blade held in the high
Quarte line. The sword arm is offered as bait.

The Nen

Chapter Seven- Blade Actions

Part One- Unlimited Actions
The number and variety of blade actions climbs to the nearly infinite when one considers that a
multitude of factors is involved in each and every moment of an action. Distance, intent, technical
execution, speed, timing, response, accuracy, movement, fakes, environment, ect all these factors
contribute to a different extent in shaping every action into its own unique thing.
There are a few actions that have a wide strategic value and are so flexible in their applications
that they could be called basic.
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1. Parry- To block an incoming attack with the sword. Also called a block.
2. Disengage- To deceive a parry by dropping the tip and avoiding any contact with the
blocking blade. This is a fine way of defeating the block of an opponent. Disengage
should always be done as small as possible, and driven primarily with the fingers. The
arm and wrist should not move.

The Disengage
3. Beat- A smack or spank to the opposing weapon, knocking it offline, directing the
opponents attention, or breaking the opponents concentration. Beats should usually be
against the weaker top half of the blade, rarely the lower, stronger half.

The Beat
4. Push- To force the opponents blade with sustained contact.

The Push

5. Bind- To lock up and control the opponents blade through the sustained use of a push.
32

The Bind
6. Coupe- To disengage by passing over the tip of the opponents blade.

The Coupe (Coo-pay)

7. Feint- To make a false opening, attack, or start. Simply make half the motion instead of
the full motion. (See part Six- Fienting)

8. Glissade- To push and then slide in along the blade for the attack.

The Glissade

9.
Winde- To rotate the blade quickly, by means of the wrist, usually in concert with a block or
parry. By winding, the opponents block or a bind can be circumvented, while maintaining control in the
situation. When winding, usually the contact of the blades is maintained as long as possible.

33

The Winde

Part Two- Parries

To parry is to close or block a line of attack. When making any parry, the principle concern is
that of leverage. Leverage is a physical advantage independent of size or strength. The virtue of this
principle is best summed by Archimedes, who said- Give me a lever long enough and I shall move
the world.
Leverage allows a smaller weaker force to oppose a larger stronger force. Leverage is gained in
swordsmanship by applying the lower part of your weapon, the forte, against the upper part of the
opposing blade, the foible. Essentially, the lower down you take a block, the stronger it will be. This
has led to the development of the punch block, a parry on the knuckles of the sword hand. Caution
should be used here, as even with the relative safety provided by foam fighting, the fingers are
inherently delicate and can be damaged by this. Protective gloves can lower this risk.
No matter the parry employed always remember that a parry should be quick and minimal, not
over extended. A parry is used like a wall, do not lay weight on an opposing blade simply establish a
firm boundary. Pushing into blocks can leave you over extended. All blocks should be made with
proper skeletal/muscle alignment. In this way more strength and stability is placed in the block while
expending less effort.

Part Three- Two Basic Parries

When a beginner first learns the A-Frame defense only two parries, Tierce and Quarte will come
heavily into play. Combined with good footwork to protect the lower extremities and avoid being
crowded by the opponent, these parries should be sufficient to protect the fighter. When combined with
a shield, which will cover Quarte, only Tierce will be left open to a conventional attack. The offhand
may also be sacrificed if it is needed to protect the Quarte side of the body.

Part Four- Advanced Parries

These parries cover each corresponding line of attack. The Tierce and Quarte parries are the two
most dominant, seen as the only true essential parries necessary for ones defense. The others have
34

their place as mainly fallback parries or as setups for an immediate counter attack or special
circumstance.
1. Prime (Preem)- Made by dropping the tip down on the inside, covering the first
angle of attack.
2. Seconde to drop the tip slightly below the level of the wrist on the outside.
3. Tierce- the standard parry as the A frame guard to the outside or sword side
4. Quarte (Cart)- standard parry as the A frame guard covering the inside line and the
chest
5. Quant (Cant)- covering descending angles of attack
6. Sixte- a more offensive parry to the high line sword side covering more of the
shoulder
7. Septime- a lowline inside block
8. Octave- a lowline outside block
9. Nuevime- an aggressive high line inside shoulder parry, swept up in the case of
thrusts to the chest.
Nen demonstrates the 9 advanced blocks

Prime

Seconde

Tierce

Quarte

Quant

Sixte

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Septime

Octave

Nuevime

Volker Attacks 1-9 Nen Blocks

9a

9b

36

Part Five-Parry Qualities

There are several different qualities that can be used to alter the tactical uses and responses of
any parry.
1. Deep- Deep parries more completely shut down a line of attack, controlling the
weapon and keeping the target safe from secondary attacks on the same line. The
drawback is in over exposing other lines of attack.
2. Circular- a parry after a block, after an opponent has disengaged, into the same
line.
3. Bash- targeting the incoming blade of the opponent instead of a body target. As a
beat, except at a moving weapon.
4. Flying- to use a bash as the opponent is attacking, knocking his weapon off line
and delivering yours to the target area in the same motion. Also called cutting
through.

Part Six- Feinting

Feinting is absolutely critical. Without feints we are honest fighters, and honest fighters are
predictable. Feinting is the technical execution of that deception Sun Tzu acclaimed as the basis for all
warfare. Making a feint is a relatively simple process, with as many ways and variations of feinting as
there are real attacks. Begin an attack, as realistically as possible and suddenly stop short. Try to make
it as small as possible, while still being threatening. Your goal is to get a response, any response, from
your opponent. Then pause in your action and observe the reaction of the opponent. You may then
withdraw, finish the action in a new line, or finish the action in the same line. It is necessary to
understand the goal of the feint.
One purpose of the feint is to engage an instinctive twitch response from the opponent. While
his brain is communicating this twitch to his muscles, in the wrong line, your true attack is launched in
a different line. With the brain and muscles so engaged they are slower to react to the true attack. Thus
the opponent will see the attack coming in, but not be able to coordinate a proper response.
Another purpose is to encourage the opponent to launch an ill prepared attack at a line that only
appears to be open and is ready to be protected. By purposely leaving a line exposed, one can feint an
opening, drawing the attack to a predictable target. Feints can also be used indirectly to control where
the opponent is directing his attention.
Feinting is one of the most important skills to master in any combat system. It is through feints
that deception is built up in the opponents mind, assisting a fighter in controlling and manipulating the
action. All warfare is based on deception.

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Chapter Eight- Advanced Strikes

Part One- Combo Shots
By combining blade actions with clever footwork, combinations can be made to bolster
individual fighting styles. These actions can be as complicated as one can possibly imagine, but
remember that as a general rule, the more complicated actions are defeated by simpler ones.
There are three categories of actions in three tempos, or three different measurements of time.
Tempo measures the syllables in a fighting phrase.
1. Simple- Simple actions consist of direct, one tempo actions. Basic strike,
thrust or time attacks are good examples.
2. Compound- Compound actions describe the two tempo actions such as
parry/riposte, feint disengage, or beat attack.
3. Complex actions are any actions performed in a tri tempo or greater. Feint
double disengage.

Part Two- Wraps

Wraps are a method of attacking around passive or active defenses, by deforming the angle of
the blade or wrist. Often geared to target the back of the opponent and usually from an Inner distance,
Wraps have a high degree of deception built into them. The following pictures do not show the various
setups for these shots, they simply convey the essence of the action.
1. Shoulder An attack in the high or mid lines, to the back or shoulder
behind the shield or weapon.

2. Darkside- an attack to the outside wrist, hip, or flank.

38

3. Flatwrap- similar to the shoulder, but the target is usually the weapon
hand wrist and sword arm of the opponent.

4. Inside- as the darkside, but targets the hip and flank of the shield side. Also
called the hip scoop.

5. Scorpion- A wrap at close range, from over your head to the chest or arm of
the opponent.

39

Chapter Nine- Advanced Options

Part One- Footwork
Advanced footwork options
1. Apel- A quick step of the front or rear foot to fake a start often
accompanied by a shout or bluster. A form of feinting.
2. Checks- By taking a half step and then following it with a full advance,
retreat, or passing step, distance can be deceptively managed.
3. Balestra- A short quick jump forward to quickly close distance.
4. Drop- To drop down onto the haunches, usually to avoid an attack on the
high lines. Dont lose footing or drop too quickly or you could damage
your knees.
5. Fleche- An explosive running dash to deliver a surprise attack.
6. Roll- A very difficult dodge maneuver, made by dropping and rolling or
somersaulting away.
7. Leap- The opposite of a drop, a leap can carry a fighter over an attack
aimed at the low lines
8. Spin- A change of lines or void by quickly spinning around and/or away.

Part Two- Actions

Actions with the blade may be described as either directly or indirectly controlling the lines of
attack. In a direct action the attacking blade manipulates the opposing one physically. In an indirect
action the opposing blade is manipulated without physical contact.
Example Direct Actions
1. Beat Touch- Immediately following a beat action, a strike is delivered to the nearest
open target, usually the arm
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2. Glissade- To push open the line and slide the blade down onto the target while holding
the line open
Example Indirect Actions
1.
1,2- A false attack into one line or target, to draw the block or counter followed by an
immediate disengage and renewed attack into a new line or target.
2.
Winde- to rotate the blade around by means of the wrist, usually after a feint, control,
block or parry.

Part Three- Controlling the Opponent

Understanding the tendencies of those you engage is necessary in the way of strategy. Few
engagements are composed of strikes that always find the target on the first blow. There are, between
two opponents of comparable skill, bound to be a series of strikes and blocks or voiding. The inferior
fighter stubbornly refuses to engage in such things or seeks to avoid them. This is a great shame. The
superior fighter knows that such situations, while they may be less than ideal, cannot always be
avoided.
Instead the superior fighter will use his knowledge of his opponent to seize upon openings
created by predictable responses. In this way, like a chess player, he is thinking and strategizing two
moves ahead.
For example: Fighter A attacks fighter B on the outside line at the opponents wrist, knowing his
attack will be blocked. As it is blocked, fighter A returns and guards the predictable path of Fighter Bs
response, his own high outside line. With the quickness that comes from calculating out such an
instinctive and predictable response, fighter A blocks and immediately returns a counter strike to his
opponents now exposed high outside line.

Part Four- The Long Haul

Too many fighters, especially newer fighters, attempt the one and done. They attempt to throw
one high commitment strike after a lengthy period of assessment and preparation. A fighter is better
served by throwing lower commitment strikes at first, keeping his guard in the way of the opponents
return strokes. This will create a greater number of opportunities and openings in an opponents
defense. These feints and motions designed to test an opponents response are called preparations.
Always try to prepare an action if possible.
This is critical to the way a foam fighter plays a field. The fighter cannot lose limbs or risk
taking a body shot just to score one strike against one opponent. Stay whole, stay alive in game, and
remain an asset to your team, not a liability. Go in for the long haul. Dont be afraid to strategically
41

retreat and attack from a better angle later. Remember your goal is to win the war, not every battle. This
is done by seeing the big picture and going in for the long haul.

Part Five- Advanced Grips

1. Shotgun- To shotgun a weapon is to grip it mainly by means of
the pommel. Shotgunning squeezes every last inch of reach out of
a weapon and puts all the weight of it fore from the hand, making
it ideal for wraps but limiting control.

2. Pinch- Choke up on the grip, pinching the lowest part of the blade
between the finger and thumb. By pinching the blade in the heat
of battle you do not lose track of the blade edge and flat against
the target. Also, it gives less power but greater control as the
balance point is moved lower towards the hand.

3. Reverse- as the natural, but with the blade pointing down. This
grip is the most misused of all grips, to the point that some say it
is not practical or a product of Hollywood fantasy. Neither of
these is true however. This grip is one of the strongest defensive
oriented grips. It drastically cuts off many traditional avenues of
attack and alters most of the traditional and popular strategies. It
also opens up new lines of counter attack and specialized
42

techniques of controls and offenses. It may be extremely

specialized and difficult but it is not without merit. Another of its
uses is the act of down-sticking or using a stabbing weapon in
the same hand as the shield. (Note: This is an advanced technique
and is only included here for example.)

Chapter Ten- Shields

Part One- Shield Types
The Shield can take on almost any shape, especially if a fighter makes his own and customizes
it to his own preference. The vast majority of shields however fall into only three types and five shapes
with two ways of using them.
Shield shape determines (to a limited extent) where on the field the shield will be most
effective, and its type determines the most effective way of using it.
Shield Types1. Strap- Strap shields are fastened on by way of two or more straps securing it to the arm.
2. Back- Back shields or turtle shells are strapped to the users back, freeing his arms and
protecting his rear quadrant.
3. Punch- A punch has a single grip instead of any straps, so it is wielded by the hand.

Part Two- Shield Shapes

Shield Shapes1.
Round- Round shields can be any size between one to three feet across. These shields provide
the most maneuverability for the individual using them to make his attacks around the shield.
2.
Tower- Tower shields are wide and tall, maximizing target coverage. Generally, they are
thought of as heavy and cumbersome but there are always exceptions.
3.
Kites & Coffins- These shields are wide at the top and narrow at the bottom, conferring most of
the advantage of a tower and lightening them slightly.
4.
Heaters- These shields, shaped like a large square with a tapered point on the bottom combine
some of the best features of other shield shapes. They are usually max width and cover the shoulders
and down to the knee without obstructing vision.
5.
Bucklers- Bucklers are a diverse group of shield shapes that all have one thing in common.
They are designed not to cover the body but primarily to cover the arms and/or free up the hands.

43

Part Three- Passive

Passive shielding is a way of utilizing a shield in such a manner that the shield is more worn
than wielded. Back shields are the purest expression of this way. Strap shields can also be excellent for
this way of shielding. The shield is tucked close against the body and the body is moved so as to better
angle the shield. This is the most prevalent type of shielding today.
This has two primary benefits, the first being that the arm is not needed in earnest so even those
with a weakness or injury can still use a shield effectively and for longer periods of time.
The other is that when shifting the feet or rolling the hips and shoulders to shift the shield into
optimum positions of defense, you are simultaneously prepping to put power into your own attacks
through the use of body mechanics. When using this strategy be sure that you are familiar with where
the shield does not cover you and where it is most effective.
In passive style shielding the shields role is usually limited strictly to defense. This means that
the weapon must both create and exploit all the passive shield users opportunities.
In Passive shielding there are three zones of defense and your reactions will be dependent on
where the attack lands relative to those zones. The first or green zone is that area covered completely
by the shield in its guard position. No extra effort has to be made against a green attack because the
shield is already there. The second or yellow zone is that area just outside the edge of the shields
perimeter where a blow might be able to slip in, but where only a minor effort can shift the shield to
cover. The third or red zone is any area of target too far removed from the shield to allow for a quick
shift of the bodys position to cover it. To protect red areas it is far more practical to employ good
footwork and/or your weapon for those defenses.

Part Four- Dynamic

Dynamic shielding is the way of using a shield held in the hand as an active part of your
offense: the same way one might use a weapon. Great footwork combines with a lighter, highly
maneuverable shield and creates an active defense that bolsters offense. Dynamic shielding is usually
associated with punch shields.
The benefits of dynamic shielding are threefold. First, the shield can be used to great effect to
open or close lines of attack while simultaneously defending the target areas. Second, the shield can be
used as an offensive weapon to create opportunities to strike. Third, as the shield is excessively
maneuverable it does not interfere with the weapon arm, allowing more angles of attack.
The downsides to this style of shield work are a lack of stability against power attacks directed
against the shield. And, as the shield is generally smaller and lighter, and moving to cover so many
areas, more holes in the defense can potentially open up. Both of these weaknesses can be answered
with good footwork, practice, and experience.
44

Dynamic shielding is not for those who want to hold a piece of ground or other position. This
type of shielding does not seek to halt an attack but guide and redirect it through flexibility. Its
flexibility is best applied on the attack, being free to move as best confers advantage. Controls are an
integral part of this aggressive type of play.

Chapter Eleven- Controls and Grapples

Part One- Lets Get Physical
Theres fencing, and theres fighting; and you need to learn both.
-Red Sonja
Fencing is a controlled application of a weapons system against an opponent. In fencing all that
you do revolves around manipulating the weapon. In fighting you must also apply a weapons system
against the opponent, but not exclusively and not under the aegis of formal conventions. In fighting
whatever works, works.
Though mastery of the higher forms of manipulating the weapon is both admirable and
necessary, any fighter who does not train to use every weapon he carries in all different ways is at best
incomplete. The hands, elbows, knees, feet, legs and body are all weapons that have their own ways of
being used in combat. These ways fall into one of two groups, controls and grappling.

Part Two- Controls

A control is any application of technique that directly binds, limits, or manipulates an opponent.
Controls can be applied with weapon, shield, hands, body, legs or feet. It is unwise to attempt to use
your head in any control. These controls are useful because they do not depend on strength but instead
rely on that great principle of leverage.
1. Binding- is the most basic type of control. By applying a push into the blade or hand of
the opponent with your blade, you may bind or tie up his weapon arm, opening the
opponents target areas.
2. Pinning- is the same technique applied with the flat of your shield or empty hand.

45

A Pin
3. Edging- is to use the edge of the shield in similar manner.

Edging to the trap the wrist, and edging to lock the wrist outside
4. Levering- is to use the weapon, hand, foot, or shield against another shield, by hooking
the edge and forcing the shield out of line.

Levering
5. Shield Kick- is to shove the shield of the opponent with your foot, opening it, or halting
his momentum. Shield kicking against smaller shields is both more dangerous and less
practical. Avoid kicking any higher than about three feet off the ground.

46

Shield Kick
6. Shield Bash is to give a forceful shove to the opponent with the flat of your shield,
knocking him back or over.

Part Three- Grappling

Controls or disarms can lead to grappling. Grappling is a direct physical struggle between two
combatants to gain a decisive advantage. Akin to wrestling, grappling will almost always eventually
end up on the ground if it persists long enough.
Care must be taken to grapple safely*, not applying pressure to joints, nerve clusters, or
sensitive organs. If you throw an opponent, maintain control and close contact, guiding them gently to
the ground. As a general rule for safe grappling use the golden rule; Do unto others as you would have
others do unto you.
*(One safety rule a group might observe is a ten second time limit on grapples.)
A few general tips for grappling successfully:
1. Control the weapon.
2. Apply the principle of leverage even if you are larger and stronger than your
opponent.
3. Get away if you can.
4. Only use grapples and controls if it is a tactical advantage.

Part Four- Photo Examples of Specific grappling techniques-

47

Hip Throw, take the opponent down over and across your hip

Lay the Lady, as hip throw, but pushing them through to the ground

Body Check, shoving the opponent

48

Elbow Pinch, controlling pole weapons

Bear Hug, pinning the arms

Chapter Twelve- Advice for Fighting & the Four Branches

This chapter is not highly detailed, nor is it meant in any way to serve as a curriculum for
training to fight against the four branch weapon sets. It is merely a collection of advice, analysis, and
descriptions, meant to convey a few of the challenges and issues faced when fighting against these
weapons or other differing circumstances. As all these weapons are considered more advanced than
single sword or S&B, they are not basic and therefore not the focus of this work.

Part One- Flails

Flails are a popular weapon for their ability to reach around casual standard defenses. Simply
keeping the guard out a few inches further than usual can severely hamper the flails natural flexibility.
In addition most flails own inertia works against them, making a follow up strike slower than a
comparable one with a sword. Flails long hafts and small striking surface can make them especially
vulnerable to controls and grappling.
49

A good strategy for fighting flails is to target and fight against the weapon arm, not go for a
quick body shot and kill.

Part Two- Reds

When facing a larger heavier weapon with the potential to break the shield, understanding its
mass and focus of power are paramount. Most red users strategy is to keep a shield man at a distance.
Generally, the red user has only one good swing unless he is being otherwise protected. Using the
shield to tempt him into a heavy blow and then withdrawing the shield or turning it to make the blow
glancing are good ideas.
Remember when fighting a big red you will want to get inside the weapons range but stay away
from grappling range as well.
Against a minimum red, one that is as light and small as a red can legally be, the opponents
strategy and options change slightly. Min reds are more effective at dealing target blows than their full
sized brother weapons, but are still a threat to the shield. Again, try to tie up the movement of a min red
with controls, beats, deflecting blocks, and shield angles while getting inside optimal striking range.

Part Three- Polearms

The weakness of any pole weapon is in gaining the inside distance. Once a fighter with a shorter
weapon breaches that distance his odds of success grow exponentially. Remember to push spears and
thrusting weapons down, and if possible straddle them to establish control. If you push or deflect them
to the side your allies may be inadvertently put at risk. Long poles are extremely vulnerable to grapples
and controls.

Part Four- Archers

Archers rely on clear line of sight. If possible try to keep an archers ally between you as you
approach. Their reload time will usually average anywhere from 10 to 16 seconds, the fastest
realistically being five seconds. Inside 15 feet or so a moderately fast runner should have the
advantage. Archer will prioritize you as a target if: you have no shield, you are being aggressive enough
to get their attention, you are standing idle in range, or you are a threat to them personally.
Part Five- Armor & Shields
Armored fighters have advanced protection which varies by degrees according to the specific
foam fighting game. Whatever the particulars, armor or larger shields are not insurmountable obstacles.
Focus should be kept on the opponents weapon arm. By fighting only the arm and avoiding
committing yourself to try and get kill or body shots, you place enormous pressure on the opponent. If
the opponent wants to get at you, he must reach out from safety to do so, while you do not have to
sacrifice a safe distance. Another tactic worth mentioning is the double tap. There are some who
50

advocate making a habit of striking twice every time, so that when fighting armored opponents you are
better equipped to handle them.
Part Six- Advantage/Disadvantage
Sometimes you will be put into positions of inequality in the fight. Losing the use of legs or
arms may happen to one or both opponents. Perhaps you are facing more than one opponent working in
tandem.
When legging an opponent watch out! The moment of your strike is when they are most
dangerous on the field. They know they have little left to lose, and your weapon is busy striking a nonvital area. A popular tactic is to leg em and leave em. This is to take a limb and then withdraw,
leaving them impotent on the field and vulnerable to spears and arrows.
If you are legged or armed consider how best to utilize what you have left to offer the team.
Perhaps even your own death to assist a team mate. Try to band closer together with other teammates
who are also disadvantaged.
When facing two or more opponents, the main tactic to consider is to keep both of them on the
same side of you. Avoid being surrounded at all costs. By using good footwork and body positioning
you place the opponents in a single line of attack where their own attacks may inadvertently interfere
with one another. You may then isolate them individually and have an easier time dispatching them. For
a great example of this principle, watch Darth Maul take on Qui Gonn and Obi Wan.

Chapter Thirteen- Teamwork and Line Fighting

Part One Key Concepts
As opposed to dueling or small group skirmishes where individual skill can stand out clearly
and tip an engagement on its own merit, team fighting or line fighting depends entirely on teamwork.
No matter how skilled an individual may be, they can never compare to multiple individuals working in
concert effectively. The sheer power of numbers can be seen readily in nature. Piranhas are much
smaller than a jaguar individually, but collectively they can strip even the fiercest of its flesh in
moments.
A successful line fighting team is like a well rehearsed symphony orchestra. If all the
instruments play their part the music is expressed in great complexity without any disharmony. The
orchestra is also flexible, the strings can be used to supply the bass line or for their traditional role. If
one part encounters a problem, the whole can make up the difference. This is all true of line fighters as
well.

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In every line there are five parts or roles to play. These roles have an optimum weapon set, but
any weapon can actually be used in any role, it simply requires a bit more skill and effort, or simply
isnt practical.

Part Two- Line Combat Roles

1.
Tank- The tank is a role of standing up to the enemy. The tank is built and geared to
survive. As a tank your primary goal is to survive and attract the aggression of the opposition at the
same time. Most tanks use armor combined with a large shield, as moving quickly is a secondary
priority to holding the line. Tanks are not expected to accrue a high kill ratio. The tank does however
make up the bulk of the group; at least 30% of a balanced line. Suggested loadouts: Sword and shield,
armor, or flail.
2.
Controller- The controller is a role of pure aggression. The controller must apply that
aggression strategically. The goal of a controller is to score kills, and/or open up targets for other roles
and halt or limit forward actions by the opposition. Most controllers favor the spear or glaive and take
position behind a wall of tanks. Controllers should have one of the highest kill ratios. They should
comprise about 20% of the balanced line. They are usually weakest against overwatch. Suggested
loadouts: Spear with a back up short weapon and buckler
3.
Striker- The striker is a role that provides overwhelming power. The striker is the most
physically demanding role. Opening holes in lines, taking out shields, trapping spears, and getting
physical with opponents are all what strikers focus on. The Striker blends the attributes of a controller
and a skirmisher. Red weapons, small glaives and large swords paired with back shields or bucklers are
at home in the hands of the striker. Strikers focus is not getting kills, but in getting assists. No more
than 10% of a line ought to be acting as strikers. Suggested loadouts: Armor, reds
4.
Overwatch- The overwatch is a role of enemy elimination. Overwatch is usually
artillery based. The bow becomes not only a weapon to eliminate enemies directly but also to
intimidate the movements of the enemy line. Every arrow should get two kills, one from itself, and
another from the distraction it can create in the enemy sometimes even before it is fired. Only 15-20%
of a line ought to be Overwatch. Anymore and the line can become strained trying to protect them from
rushes or suffers from a lack of front men. Suggested loadouts: Archery, backup weapon
5.
Skirmisher- The skirmisher is a role of movement and flexibility. Skirmishers are light
and aggressive, harassing the opposition. They can have the most flexible loadout of any of the roles,
using single sword, sword and shield, two swords, or almost any other weapons combination. 20- 25%
of the balanced line has skirmishers running the flanks, harassing the opponents, seeking holes in the
line and backing up the other roles. This role is highly offensive in nature, but relies on speed, daring,
and mobility to function. Suggested loadouts: double swords, sword and small shield, short spear or
glaive, double flails

Part Three- Choosing an Optimal Loadout

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No one will know your best choice as far as weapon set goes, because every person, fight, and
group is different with different goals. Try to experiment with as many different types and ways as you
can conceive. Eventually something will speak to you and feel right.
Conversely, you may have to train exclusively with a single weapons set to attain any kind of
proficiency with it. Either way, you are an individual and unique. Your weapons set will eventually
come to reflect that.
For the purposes of training there is a logical progression a fighter should follow to lower the
learning curve and make his progression smooth and simple.
-

Single sword- single handed weapons will teach focus and a reliance on footwork, leverage, and
body mechanics. Also stopping the beginner from developing bad habits such as head fear and
turning while promoting aggression, controls, bravery, physicality and endurance.
Sword and Shield- When it comes to the shield, learn passive shielding first, then if desired
switch to a dynamic style.
Spear- This limited polearm is functionally simple but technically deep, setting a solid
foundation for other large weapons. This is also one of the most potentially dangerous weapons
on the field as it concentrates so much force into so small an area.
Glaive- A spear with options.
Large Sword or Axe- When learning with small weapons, start small and get bigger. When
learning large weapons start bigger and get smaller.
Archery- Do not train for archery until a basic level of training is complete in single sword and
sword and shield. This is to give you a decent understanding of these very common weapons, so
that you may be effective against them and also not become a burden to your team.

Part Four- 3 Example Line Formations

The following are three tactically unique formations an expert team might know and be able to
form up while on the field. The examples given are for twenty man teams but can easily be adapted for
more or fewer. These are just examples of what might be, using a simple composition system geared
towards optimizing teamwork and balanced roles.
Symbol
T
C
St
O
Sk

Role

tank
controller
striker
overwatch
skirmisher

Composition
6/20
4/20
3/20
3/20
4/20

Expected Kill Ratio

2/1
3/1
.5/1
4/1
.5/1

The Standard

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This is the intuitive line formation, with a wall of tanks being supported by strikers and
controllers. The skirmishers are flanking and highly mobile, able to heed overwatches calls to shore up
any cracks in the line. Its strength is in its strong center and flexible flanks.
O

Sk
C
C
C
C
Sk
Sk St T T T St T T T St Sk
Soft Center
In this example the extra striker is placed on the right side of the line but could be put wherever
is needed to supplement the line. The soft center is best applied against an aggressive line, as opponents
are funneled into the killing area of the concave line.
O
O
O
St
C C T T C C
Sk T Sk St T
T St T Sk Sk
Retreating Tail
The retreating tail is an organized retreat to establish tactical advantage, best used against a
stable highly defensive concentrated group. There are three distinct areas of descending aggression, the
highest on the far right flank. If any members are tired or wounded they can fall back towards the tail
end, where aggression is lowest. The entire assembly must wheel to the right together, keeping the
enemy line from catching up to them.
O O
O
C Sk Sk
C
St C C Sk T
Sk T T St T T St T

These are just a few example of how complex line formations can become with a dedicated
team behind them. However, complex does not mean better. Complex formations require an enormous
amount of training, practice, discipline, and teamwork. Very few groups today have the luxury of the
time to dedicate to such a practice, nor the motivating factors to do so. Often a simpler strategy is far
more successful.

Part Five- Two Basic Strategies

There are two basic opposing strategies that can be employed in any group battle and remain
effective no matter how large or small the numbers of fighters. They are exceptionally simple and
54

instinctive to execute. These are not set formations but follow the same principles of teamwork,
cooperation, and complementary styling.
1. Phalanx- In response to the threat of the advancing or larger opposition, the
group may gather into a concentrated force and fight as one large mass in as
small an area as possible. This gives great defensive coverage and multiplies
power.
2.
Mongul- To mongul is to break all formation and surround the opposition widely, forcing them
to turn and cover all sides at once. It is a tactic of hit and run; harries and harassment. By remaining
more mobile your group whittles away at the opposition not standing and giving fight, but taking out
one piece at a time until they are overrun. Usually it is a good idea to break the larger group into at least
pairs, so the individual fighters can have access to assistance.

Chapter Fourteen- Drills and Games

In any skill, training is necessary, but can often become repetitive and therefore boring. To keep
enthusiasm and efforts high, skill games and drills are a good idea.

Part One Footwork

1. Distance Game- Partners hold a length of rope or object not longer than
two feet. One is the leader who moves back and forth or laterally, the
other attempts to follow without letting go. Both should remain facing
each other. Start slow and build up speed and intensity.
2. Knee Slap- Two partners each holding small swords face each other. One
is the attacker, he attempts to go forward and strike straight down onto
the top of his opponents front knee. Two is the defender. He is also
trying to make the same strike but must wait until the attacker tries first.
Two should try to dodge or void Ones attack. Each man only gets one
chance to swing their weapon. No blocking.
3. Bear Baiting- One man with a weapon is put in a ten or twelve foot
diameter circle with an object in the center. Four or five unarmed men
attempt to rush into the circle and steal the object without being hit. The
object should be smaller for an easier challenge or larger and bulkier for
a harder one. A big soft blanket or bean bag can be pretty tough.

Part Two- Strikes and Blocks

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1. Soresu- Two men with swords, one attacks five times, and then the
other attacks five times. When being attacked try only to block or
void the attacks. Go back and forth, slowly building the intensity.
2. Strike pads- Two men, one with sword, the other unarmed but
sporting safety protection on his hands. When he signals a hand the
sword man makes a strike against that target.
3. Hand and Foot- Single blue fight, one man can only score on legs, the
other only arms.
4. Double Tap- Single blue fight, one of the fighters must hit twice on
the same attack to score.

Part Three- Shielding

1. Volley- One man with only a shield vs. at least three archers. If
the shield man touches an attacker they are dead. Time for
survival.
2. Gauntlet- As Volley, but against single blue wielders. The touch
rule is only effective after a set time has passed.
3. Rugby- This game trains several shield men at once. Put at least
two men armed with only a shield in a circle at least twelve feet in
diameter. Put an object in the center and task several men to try to
rush in and steal it. If they are knocked prone or take two shield
bashes they must leave the circle.
4. Five Hits- Shield man vs. a sword man. When shield man has
taken five hits its over. Dont stop if hit, just keep going.

Part Four- Grappling

1.
Finger Fencing- Two player join hands with their first fingers extending. Try to tag opposing
player on the torso with your finger without letting go of the hand.
2.
Lame Duck- Grapple your opponent to the ground, each of you may only use one arm.
3.
Greco- Sword and board vs. Single shield. Shieldman must grapple the opponent to the ground
without dying.

Chapter Fifteen- Q&A

For this chapter, the call was put out to several realm leaders and experienced fighters asking for
the most common and not so common questions new fighters had asked them. Here are the top
responses. Some are funny, some are a little disturbing.
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1.

How do I build a scythe?

You. Do. Not.

2.

What about a Batleth?

I must confess even I have a blueprint drawn up for one of these infamous trekkie
weapons, and I occasionally go back and revise it. Specialized weapons are just that, specialized. They
are not as flexible in form or strategy as a simpler weapon. Stick with the tried and true. There is a
reason that everybody else does. However, innovation and experimentation are traditional hallmarks of
foam fighting. So even though it really probably wont work out, keep those blueprints anyway.
3.

Two stabbed limbs wont kill me but two struck limbs will?
Yes this is simply a rule. A struck limb is considered amputated, a pierced limb
considered only inoperable. Blood loss from two amputations is almost a certainty of death. Piercings
do not bleed nearly as much or as quickly.
4.

Can I pad a bow and hit people with it?

(Really?) No. Bows are very dangerous. They represent without a doubt the most
dangerous weapon set on the field. There are numerous ways a bow could potentially damage you; that
is why there are such stringent rules surrounding it. Never swing hard at a person holding a bow or
arrows. Let them take the death if you get close enough to hit them. Most will. Those with bow and
arrows should not provoke fighters into actually hitting them with anything more than a courtesy shot.
The bow could snap, sending shards of wood, fiberglass, plastic, or metal into someone. The string is
held under 30lbs of pressure and can whip eyes. Arrows are only padded on one end and the other is
necessarily a bit pointy. Enough to damage not only flesh but weapons as well.
5.

Do I have to wear garb?

No, not more than min garb which is sweat pants and a plain t-shirt. What were you
planning to wear to hot, sweaty, active, dirty foam fighting? Evening wear? Jeans that will absolutely
rip and tear? A brightly colored designed shirt that just screams out Here I am! Newb! Easy kill! For
those who complain about this rule just wait until their first big event. The gorgeous armor and garb
displayed there will inspire or at least help them to understand that you want to dress for success in
whatever you are doing not just foam fighting.
6.

Do I have to sign this waiver?

Nope. Cops dont have to wear vests either. But its a good idea and all the cops I know
do. Same idea. The waiver is not just for everyone else, it is there to protect you. No one fights at big
events without a waiver. You want everyone you fight to have a waiver also, without it you are illegally
assaulting people. With it, you have at least some documented form of their consent. Dont potentially
ruin your life because you didnt want to scribble your name at the bottom of some form. So no you
dont have to sign it, but if you dont I wouldnt play with you.
7.
Does any of my [insert some sport or martial tradition here] experience cross over or help
me?
Yes! Yes it does, though probably not in the way you are thinking. The greatest
advantage martial arts/ sports guys have when they come over is a knowledge and experience working
with their own bodies. Balance, coordination, pain tolerance, fear control; these are all great benefits to
having some other kind of training or experience. In the words of Sun Tzu: To know one thing well,
know a thousand things. To know a thousand things, know one thing well.
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8.

How do I avoid tennis elbow/ knee pain/ headaches/ sun burn/ some other thing?
Sorry to say, as an active activity where you are not sitting on the couch, Foam fighting
does carry some risks for injury both major and minor. All anyone can do is ensure they are taking
every precaution and planning ahead. Make sure you are stretching before you play. Ensure you stay
hydrated and use sun block. Wear a cup, padded gloves, and safety or support pads if you can. Take
care of yourself and remember its a game, dont kill yourself for it.
9.

How do I hit harder?

Technique, not muscle is the answer. Muscles, no matter how big and conditioned, have
limits. Proper body mechanics use the weight of your own body in conjunction with muscles and
skeletal alignment to generate force. If you are new, dont focus overly on this. Perhaps a better
question would be Should I hit harder? If you cant hit someone with a lighter quicker shot how do
you expect slower power shots to help your game?
10.

Why cant I do that thing that is against the rules in the book of war?
Because the book of war is not a randomly typed up document full of fortune cookie
phrases and things someone thought would be nice to have in there. It is a collection of almost 40 years
of distilled experience in how not to get hurt from people who routinely try to hurt each other for fun.
This game has a high potential for injury even under the best of conditions, dont take unnecessary
risks.
11.

How do you keep killing me so easily?

You are new; Im not. Experience counts in foam fighting. You cant fake it and you
cant get around it. You want to be good? Give yourself a realistic amount of time. Practice, practice,
practice.
12.

Why do I have to be sixteen to play?

You dont! Except on national fields and any fields that so limit the age. A member of
my home realm started a community funded foam fighting group for the local kids in his small town,
ages 8-12. They played with modified rules and supervision and its probably the greatest thing anyone
has done for this game ever. I look forward to an influx of eager cadets in just a few short years time. I
highly encourage realms to start these kinds of junior programs to spread awareness and grow the sport.
Remember big tobaccos mantra from the 1950s; Hook em young, and theyre yours for life.
Technically any age might be able to play so long as their guardian signs a consent form, though
if we are cutting loose and going full out, sixteen is a reasonable age to limit, as the risk of injury and
the demands of self control and maturity are so high.
13.

Is this LARPing?
No. Though foam fighting is an element of most LARPs, it is usually watered down.
This is pure combat more akin to boxing, kendo, or fencing than to LARPing. There is a fantasy
element to the game that is fun to include on the battlefield, but it isnt over stressed or even necessary
to foam fighting games. Of the three biggest Foam Fighting groups in North America, Belegarth,
Dagorhir, and Amtguard, only Amtguard comes close to focusing on those fantasy elements.
14.

People are complaining the vets hit too hard

Vets usually do hit way too hard. Foam fighting has a slippery slope built into it in the
form of power in the shots. Those vets have been unconsciously, (or sometimes consciously)
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conditioned to hit harder because after you fight for awhile or if you are just naturally bigger and more
enured to pain, lighter shots just arent cutting it anymore. They simply need to be reminded to readjust
their shot calibration for the situation and the person they are fighting.
If this is the case in your realm, dont panic. Change it up. Dont force the vets to fight newer or
weaker people full tilt. Have the vets take leadership roles in the battles, calling out formations and
plays. Maybe have that vet take off his armor once in a while? Open a dialogue if this is becoming a
problem. This is only a problem when people dont talk about it and try to ignore it or in extreme cases,
get indignant about it and take it personally. Be open and honest in as gentle a way as possible. Remind
everyone that this sport is supposed to be safe and fun. Those should be the two main priorities of any
successful group.
15.

My realm has too many newbs and not enough vets like me. It is so boring.
Youve got a lot of newbs? Congratulations! Newbs can be just as valuable a resource as
vets if used properly. They provide opportunities to try and broaden your skill set and step outside your
comfort zone. Want to learn off hand or maybe two sword style? If you think about it, why wouldnt
you first practice with newbs before taking on that vet?

Chapter Sixteen- Realm Crafting

Part One- The Problems
Foam fighters need each other to fight. Without each other were just swinging foam in an
empty room. Groups or Realms or whatever you want to call them are inherently social and as such are
prone to social problems. Whether your realm doesnt exist yet, or its not quite where you want it to
be, or its great and getting better all the time, being aware of what makes a great realm is paramount.
There are many challenges to overcome when undertaking to create or improve a realm. In long
established realms falling into some disrepair, those challenges are even more difficult to overcome, but
they are always worth it. Dont focus on your realms problems too much, instead focus on having some
good things and the problems often sort themselves out.
For more specific problems that can come up in a realm, refer back to Chapter Fifteen, Q&A.

Part Two- Things a Great Realm Has

1.

Goals.

Goals are the light at the end of the tunnel; the cool drink at the end of a long day. Goals
are why we do whatever it is we are doing. Even if you just want to get together and swing foam twice
a week thats still a goal. Decide on goals carefully and get input from everyone. With goals, try to
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always have three active at any one time in your realm; a goal for the week, the month, and the year.
Individuals can and should set and achieve goals for themselves, publicly or privately.

2.

Rules.

These can be as tight or as loose as your individual realm prefers, but any organization
has to have at least some rules. Rules let you know whats going on and where you stand. Rules give
clear and relevant guidance in everything that a realm does. Some folks may balk at the idea of rules,
thinking they dont want to be tied down or held back. I like to remind them that even though the string
of a kite seems to be tying it down, it is actually what holds it up and lets it fly. Rules can seem
restrictive to some people, but they dont necessarily have to be.

3.

Work.

Rules need a committed force to apply them. Ideally, everyone in the realm should share
the majority of the responsibilities involved with running the realm. Realistically, this is rarely the case.
Regardless of who does it though, there is still that work that needs to be done. Look carefully at your
goals for your realm and find the best ways to accomplish them and then make it someones job to get
it done. Try not to give too much to any one person, and try to keep the tasks assigned to those who are
consistent in their attendance. Some people wont want to, and that can be okay, but someone still has
to do that work.

4.

Variety.
I mean this in every sense of the word. This is one of the most common problem causers
in almost every realm and group. When it comes to fighting, try lots of different games. If they suck,
then dont play them again, but at least try them out. Change weapons and goals. Mowing down
everyone is all well and good but at some point even the most dedicated will get mentally bored.
Great realms have a lot of different kinds of people in them. An open and accommodating realm
will thrive long after a closed off and insular elitist realm has petered out. One good barometer for the
health of a realm is the number of female and younger fighters, as well as weapon variety on the field.

5.

A Social Life.
As a realm, you can and should be at least casually social with other realms, groups or
individuals. Staying connected to the larger world outside of your own realm fosters camaraderie and
unity. Also, outsiders can bring their experience and expertise to your aid. Invite individuals and even
whole other realms to come out to one of your practices, or go to theirs. Be as open and inviting as you
can and your realm will grow because of it. Talk about your realm outside in your mundane life if you
are comfortable with it. The social media are an invaluable aid in this.

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6.

A Nurturing and Challenging Environment

Some plants are better served in shady spots, some thrive in full sun. A good garden has
sun and shade. All fighters need to be both nurtured at times and challenged at times. Without both, the
realm will not be balanced and will tilt to an extreme one way or the other. Extreme environments can
be good occasionally, but humans arent built for surviving them in the long term.
Nurturing in foam fighting means that there are helps and avenues of choice to explore at your
own pace, in your own way. It is a low pressure, accommodating type of help. Challenging is just the
opposite. A goal is set to test you against it in some way. The help comes from the difficulty of the task,
which when conquered gives a sense of true accomplishment and an increase in real skill.

Chapter Seventeen- Training

Part One- The Stages of Training
All fighters go through several periods or stages in their training, when they need certain things
to bring out their full potential. These stages are not linear in nature they are cyclical. A fighter will find
himself going through these over and over again, but each time he will have grown and the depth of his
understanding will have deepened.
1.
The Instinctual Stage- In the first stage, the new fighter is just getting a feel for the unfamiliar
weapon in his hand, or a new technique, style, or challenge. With limited knowledge to draw on, he
falls back on his instincts and natural responses. The problem is that Fighting with weapons is an
inherently unnatural act and the instincts we fall back on are not usually correct. The effect is the much
discussed and often hilarious Newbie-Fu. The Beginner has no understanding, yet at times this almost
random flailing results in unpredictable and unexpectedly successful attacks.
2.
The Technical Stage- After the beginner gains enough training and experience he enters the
Technical stage, where he relies on his learned techniques. He employs them tactically, discovering
which to employ at different times to achieve his goals. This is an expansive stage, and a time of great
learning and experimentation as the techniques slowly become smooth and polished, and a part of the
fighter.
3.
The Empty Stage- This is the stage where all technique, all knowledge is lost and forgotten. The
sword is no longer a tool in the hand, it is an extension of the hand. Tactics are not thought of, they are
lived completely. No thought is given to the battle, it simply unfolds as it will. No consideration is
given by the fighter, he simply is. The fighter has reached a state of No-Mind or Empty-Mind. Not to
be confused with the Lack of thought or Mind, No-Mind is a state of being experienced at times by
most everyone. When without a thought or fear or anything at all, the mind and body respond
automatically to anything and everything that comes up. It is only afterward that you wonder; How
did that happen?
4.
The Plateau- At any time and for any period of time, a fighter may enter one of the most
frustrating periods of his training, the Plateau. Skill doesnt disappear; it just seems to flat line for
awhile as progress seems to come to a grinding halt. These periods are natural and usually the result of
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some imbalance in life that may have nothing to do with the fighting or training at all. Sometimes a
shake up or recommitment can break through one of these plateaus, sometimes they must simply be
patiently endured until they pass. They are natural and everyone gets them sometimes.
Part Two- Girls
Many men have questions when it comes to training women. Training women in the beginning
is no different than training a man. Whether man or woman, treat each fighter as a unique individual
who will have strengths, weaknesses, talents and limitations that are all their own. To generalize
women or men is to do either a great disservice. Dont train Women. Dont train Men. Train Fighters.

Part Three- Using this Book

This book is designed to aid in creating training programs for any Foam fighter. The most
important points of its use are built into it. The fundamentals are all at the beginning of the work and
these should be polished every practice. Footwork, distance, and timing as well as general fitness and
simple actions should be stressed in everyones training not only the beginners. Not only stressed but
the vast majority of training time should focus on the fundamentals. They are the measure of your
success.
Practices should be intense enough to assist in learning and focused on one thing at a time to
help both absorption and retention. Do not overload students. The more complex or advanced the
lesson or exercise, the shorter it should be.
Any lesson plan should include three phases; first, a warm up and focus in, where the student
warms up and at the same time practices his fundamentals. Second, a subject should be offered for
exploration. This should be concise and specific. For example, not blocking in general, but one
particular block, and then a few relevant options and tactics surrounding it. Finally, exercises and or
games that highlight or give opportunity to practice the subject in question should be played.
Do not make the mistake of feeling you cannot teach unless you are a veteran or an officer or
something. Everyone has a unique perspective and there are people out there who will learn something
from you that no one else can get through to them. Also, teaching is a great way to learn things for
yourself. Just make sure that your teaching is rooted in simplicity and the fundamentals and that you
keep as open a mind as possible to new ideas.
There are two ways to work with wood. The first way has the carpenter breaking out all the
power tools he owns and forcing the wood into the shape he wants. He will saw through knots in the
wood, fill in cracks with putty, drill holes, and cut across the grain. He will get the thing into shape.
This is fast and easy. The result will be uniform and standard. But there is another way. The artisan will
look his raw wood over, evaluating its peculiar and unique traits and shape. With a patient, gentle
sanding he will begin to coax the wood into more of the shape that it already is. He will follow the
62

grain, going with the woods flow, until after a long time the result is piece in the shape it desired to be
in, retaining all its beauty, uniqueness, and individuality. There will be no waste, and the wood will
glow with its own natural luster. This way is harder, and certainly not quick, and it is also wonderful.

Chapter Eighteen- Conclusion

To train and participate in Foam Fighting attracts all types of individuals. Always remember that
we are one family and treat each other accordingly. Represent your sport, your realm, your unit, your
friends, and yourself with honor and pride. Foam fighting offers a lot of benefits to all its participants,
not the least of which is the opportunity for them to better themselves. The practice is the thing. Polish
until you shine.
I cant wait to fight you. See you on the field.

63