How I Make Reamer

How I make chamber reamers
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How I make chamber reamers

There really isnt any magic to this. Any well-educated American with a couple of brain cells to rub
together should be able to figure this out heck, I did! But caution is advised. Machining tolerances
must be exact or dangerous situations will be produced. Excellent quality chamber reamers are available
through multiple commercial sources (e.g. Clymer, PTG, Manson) at very reasonable prices, especially
given the time involved in making your own. Despite these caveats Ive enjoyed spending more time
than I should developing the method described. Ive pulled information from various sources, especially
Paul Rodgers (http://www.saubier.com/paulrodgers/reamer.html), so nothing here has been invented.
The method described is what I have personally used I guarantee there are better ways and I hope that
suggestions will be shared. If you engage in this activity, do so at your own risk. If you really need a
reamer you should buy one commercially if youre like me your initial efforts will fail!
Step 1: Cut a piece of 01 steel seven inches long. The cheap bandsaw is one of my favorite tools.
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Step 2:
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Step 2: Face and drill one end of the reamer blank. I use a 3, four-jaw chuck in my mini-lathe
Set-up
Face
Drill for live center
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Step 2:
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Step 3:
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Step 3: Turn the reamer blank

Set-up in four-jaw chuck and live center
Take a cut (to 0.48 0.49)
Cut to neck diameter. This blank is for an 8 x 57 AI. Neck diameter = 0.357. The cross slide is set to
40* for the shoulder.
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Step 3:
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Measure the neck
Turn the pilot
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Step 3:
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Now its time to set the taper. This was difficult at first and took some practice but is no big deal now. I
set the taper by offsetting the mini-lathe tailstock.
Mark the shoulder-to-base dimension
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Step 3:
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Use feeler gauges to measure the taper. For the 8 x 57 AI the shoulder is 0.455 and the base is 0.470,
a difference of 0.015. This difference is in-terms of the diameter of the reamer at these points. The
feeler guage measurements reflect differences between the radius of these points. Because the radii are
the diameters, we are looking for a 0.0075 difference between shoulder and base. The limit of my
feeler gauge precision is 0.001 and so I round down to 0.007. I can set this using a 0.010 gauge at the
shoulder and a 0.017 gauge at the base.
0.010 at the shoulder
0.017 at the base
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Step 3:
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And cut the taper. Go slow. This is the tricky part. The base diameter is determined by the web of the
brass and cannot vary. Make your first cuts light and keep checking. Approach the base diameter
slowly. If your taper is correct, when the base diameter is reached the shoulder will be right-on. Focus
on hitting the base.
OK, now the taper is cut and its time to polish with 400 grit.
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Step 4: Cutting the flutes
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Cut a piece of masking tape exactly long enough to fit around the unturned end of the reamer blank.
Ive found that I can fit a total of five flutes around reamers of this size. Measure the piece of tape
(which is the blank circumference) and divide by five. Mark the tape and return around the reamer.
Mark the reamer. These marks will guide flute placement. Masking tape is cheaper than a dividing
head.
Mount the turned blank in V-blocks. Move the end mill down to touch one of the unturned ends.
Measure. Because the stock I use is 0.498, if I go down 0.249 Ill be at the midline. Machine shop
handbooks indicate that reamer flutes are usually at 95*. To simulate this extra 5* without too much
drama I just go down an additional 0.005. It seems to work.
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Cut the first flute
Rotate the reamer until the next mark is TDC and cut the second flute. Repeat until five are cut. Dont
cut too deep youll run out of room and and destroy the edge of neighboring flutes.
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Step Five: Heat treating
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I use an oxyacetylene torch to heat until non-magnetic, followed by a used motor oil quench.
Mounting the reamer in a drill press may help even heating and reduce warpage I havent had a
problem yet (knock-knock).
Cut-off unturned end proximal to the pilot (how did I live without a band saw?)
Stamp the cartridge information and grind flats for a 7/16 wrench
Mount in a drill press and get everything ready for heat-treat and quenching. Thats used motor oil in
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the pasta sauce jar, although the sauce would probably get the job done. It might smell better too (but
maybe not).
While turning, heat to non-magnetic
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Quickly (and safely) extinguish the torch, and in one smooth movement raise the motor oil to cover the
rotating, red-hot reamer and move the press table to support the jar. Stinky! Let the reamer cool in the
oil
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Step 6: Relieving and sharpening
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Step 6: Relieving and sharpening

Stone off the burrs from the cutting edges. Careful! Just take the burr off. Any more will dull the
reamer.
I use a Dremel with a grinding wheel to relieve the cutting edges. You only need/want about 1/8-1/16
of a land behind each cutting edge. Much more and the flute wont cut well. Carefully grind to about
this width.
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Step 7: Trying it out
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Step 7: Trying it out!

Chuck-up a shot-out Mauser barrel
Ream!
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Step 7: Trying it out
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There are some nice chips!
Ive got this barrel mounted to an action and have fire-formed five nice pieces of 8 x 57 AI brass. Stay
tuned for the next episode where I chamber a Mauser take-off in good condition and work-up loads!
8/4/2004

How I Make Reamer

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How I Make Reamer

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How I make chamber reamers

How I make chamber reamers

Drill for live center

Step 3: Turn the reamer blank

Take a cut (to 0.48 0.49)

Measure the neck

Turn the pilot

Mark the shoulder-to-base dimension

0.017 at the base

Step 4: Cutting the flutes

Step 4: Cutting the flutes

Step 4: Cutting the flutes

Cut the first flute

Step 4: Cutting the flutes

Step Five: Heat treating

Step Five: Heat treating

Step Five: Heat treating

While turning, heat to non-magnetic

Step Five: Heat treating

Step 6: Relieving and sharpening

Step 6: Relieving and sharpening

Step 7: Trying it out

Step 7: Trying it out!

Step 7: Trying it out

There are some nice chips!

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