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Shopping in Jodhpur, Rajasthan

Hey, big spender!

Those who love to shop love Jodhpur.

Antiques, handicrafts, fabrics, footwear
you name it, and Jodhpur will have it,
probably tucked away in a restored haveli.
Whats more, the city is simpatico to lazy
shoppers. Nothing opens till about 11am,
so you can sleep in, enjoy another cup of
masala chai and set forth, wallet quivering
in anticipation. But, if youre a morning
person, or god help you, travelling with
one, your best hope is The Museum Shop
at Mehrangarh Fort, opening at 9am,
and a must-see microcosm of Jodhpurs
many offerings. After a steep hike up
Mehrangarh Fort, youll be ready for
some calm contemplation over polo-

themed T-shirts (from ` 750), clothing

for women and kids (from ` 390), ittars
(from ` 750), knick-knacks with Jodhpuri
motifs (from ` 20), tea bags, eclectic books
on Rajasthan (from ` 350), and bags
and purses in native fabrics (from ` 590).
There is also a small selection of paintings
by local artists, and, on the way out,
stalls selling handicrafts like block-printed
and bandhini fabrics, and mojdis. Artisans
at these stalls are rotated on a monthly
basis, but are asked to keep their prices
to a given range, so ask to see the fixed
price sheet before making a purchase.
Another must-visit is Lalji Handicrafts,
an emporium of antiques and furniture.
You can spend hours here just walking past

Above and below:

Sambhali Boutiques
washable, adorable
stuffed toys
are great for gifts
and soothing
kids to sleep

myriad shelves of cigarette and other

advertising posters (from ` 100), perfume
bottles (from ` 1,000), enamel doorknobs
and peacock-shaped handles (from ` 150),
and even vintage buttons and postcards
(from ` 10). The staff is helpful and honest
about pointing out the differences
between antique and reproduction.
If your trip is a little longer, forego
visiting the MV Spices outlet at the fort
in favour of its outlet in the Clock Tower
market area. Let the friendly owners
offer you a tea-tasting session, tell
you about the sourcing and grinding
of their organic teas and spices, as
well as the history of this family-run
firm, while your senses are beguiled

great from

Jaipur, Bikaner, Jaisalmer, New Delhi

Great for

Shopping amid culture and history

Go Now

While the weather is enjoyable.

by the heady aromas of cloves, cinnamon
and the pungent Mathania chillies, which
are sold only in powder form; deeply red
and almost oil-free (` 30/ 100g).
Down the road from MV Spices
is a place containing the secret behind that
Jodhpuri swagger: India Tailors, purveyors

of finely-crafted Jodhpuri polo breeches

(tailoring from ` 1,000), jackets (tailoring
from ` 1,500) and more. They cater
to customers as elite as the Jodhpur
royals, with effortless, exact fits based
on measurements alone. Happily, they
are also open to custom-making Jodhpurs,
and, thus, swagger, for women too.
Of course, as unfairly as usual, women
have more options in the Blue City. Like
the Sambhali Boutique, where youll find
clothes (from ` 500), bags (from ` 350)
and more, all made by underprivileged
women and girls, trained and supported
by the Sambhali Trust. Vibrant fabrics and
careful stitching ensure that youre doing
some good to your closet and your karma.

1. Lalji Handicrafts
is a second home
for film stylists and
set designers, with
movies like Vanity
Fair to its credit
2. Mathania chillies
are sold everywhere,
but ground to a fine
powder at MV Spices
3. Youll find artisans
selling traditional
Rajasthani crafts near
The Museum Shop
4. With glorious views
of Mehrangarh Fort,
an evening
at Panorama 360
will revive you
(see Where to Eat)

Follow the winding road from Sambhali

to Bibaji Churi Wale, one of the oldest
bangle sellers here, where a charmingly
irascible Bibaji, or Abdul Sattar, will help
you choose bangles by colour, budget
or style as generations of his family have
done for the women of the Jodhpur royal
family. Crystal, glass, lac, plastic and plain
metal bangles abound in the shop, in every
size possible (` 30 ` 2,200).
You can explore Jodhpurs other
shopping areas, too simply slather
on some sunscreen, hike up your Jodhpurs,
and swagger out.
words akhila vijaykumar
photographs krishna angira

turn over for all you need to get there

easy trips Shopping in Jodhpur, Rajasthan

Sambhali Boutique
Indique Restaurant
Panorama 360
Haveli Inn Pal

Jodhpur

Cafe Sheesh Mahal

Bibaji Churi Wale

RAJASTHAN

Shahi Samosa

M V Spices
Lalji Handicrafts

Devi
Bhawan

Jodhpur Airport
Jodhpur Jn

Fact Sheet

India Tailors
Janta Sweet Home

GETTING THERE
Closest metro: New Delhi (605km)
Closest city: Jaipur (335km)
Closest airport: Jodhpur Airport. Air India,
Jet Airways and SpiceJet fly here from New Delhi
(return fares from ` 9,500).
Closest railhead: Jodhpur Junction (JU).
Take the 12461 Mandor Express to get there
(leaves New Delhi [DLI] 9.15pm, arrives JU 7.50am;
` 965 Third AC) and return by the 14660 Jaisalmer

WHERE TO STAY
Devi Bhawan: An oasis of calm
situated near the airport, this hotel
combining the virtues of heritage and
modernity, and offers a swimming pool
and tranquil lawns (00-91-291-2512215;
www.devibhawan.com, info@devibhawan.
com; No 1 Defence Lab Rd, Ratanada;
from ` 2,875 with wi-fi).
Haveli Inn Pal: This 18th-century
haveli- turned-cosy hotel offers rooms
with lovely views of the lake or fort.
Stained-glass windows, traditional
enamel furniture, red-tinged architecture
and a central location make it an ideal
place (00-91-291-261259, reservations:
00-91-9828077510; www.haveliinnpal.
com, info@haveliinnpal.com; opp Lake
Gulab Sagar, near Clock Tower; ` 4,200
with breakfast, wi-fi and arrival transfer
from airport or railway station).
Ajit Bhawan: Originally built for
the brother of the erstwhile Maharaja

Ajit
Bhawan

Delhi Express (leaves JU 11.15pm, arrives DLI

11.15am; ` 915 Third AC).
GETTING AROUND
Jodhpur is a small city, so getting around is fairly
easy. Auto rickshaws abound, but will not follow
the meter pricing system. A hired car with driver
is a better idea, especially if youre driving down
from Jaipur. We used and liked Kaustubh Holidays
(00-91-9829016388; www.kaustubhholidays.com;
from ` 2,650/ day for an AC Sedan).

of Jodhpur, Sir Ajit Singhji, this luxury

hotel offers 20,000sqm of landscaped,
imperial living style in its rooms, tents
and suites (00-91-291-2513333;
www.ajitbhawan.com, reservations@
ajitbhawan.com; Circuit House Rd;
from ` 10,865 with wi-fi and breakfast).

WhERE TO EAT
Make a pit stop at Shahi Samosa
to sample Jodhpuri delicacies like the
onion and potato kachori or the mirchi
bada (00-91-9799758158; Ghantaghar,
Nai Sarak; 8.30am 8pm; from ` 20).
Janta Sweet Home nearby is also known
for its kachoris (` 18) as well as desserts
like jalebis (` 400/ kg) and imartis
at ` 420/ kg (00-91-291-2636666;
3, Nai Sarak; 7am 11pm). For dinner,
you have two great choices that offer
fine views of the lit-up Mehrangarh Fort
in the evening. Indique has an Indian
and continental menu with a decent
selection of cocktails and liquor
(00-91-291-2638344; Pal Haveli,

Take home a piece

of the past from
Lalji Handicrafts,
where shelves
and shelves
of treasures await

SHOPPING
The Museum Shop: 00-91291-2548790; www.mehrangarhmuseum
shop.com/museum-shop.asp;
Mehrangarh Fort; 9am 5pm
Lalji Handicrafts: 00-91-291-2510887;
www.laljihandicrafts.com; Handicraft
Market, opp Umaid Bhawan Palace Rd;
9am 7pm; the staff will arrange
to take you to their furniture warehouse
on request
MV Spices: 00-91-9636532992,
9828065600; www.mvspices.co;
Shop no 107, Nai Sarak; 9am 9pm
India Tailors: 00-91-9667024147; High
Court Rd, Sojati Gate; 10.30am 9pm
Sambhali Boutique: 00-919828089293; www.sambhali-trust.org;
outside Hotel Mangal Haveli, Killi Khana,
near the Clock Tower; 10.30am 7.30pm,
Sun closed; it also takes craft items
by order, based on a sample piece
Bibaji Churi Wale: 00-91-9828292232;
opp Shri Navratan Ayurvedic
Aushdhalaya, Manak Chowk; 8am
10pm; bangles can be shipped as well
CLEAN LOO GUIDE
Jodhpur isnt very large and you
might not be too far from your hotel
room at any point. However, nature
is a cruel and twisted thing. Places
of interest like the fort have clean loos
and Sambhali Boutique offers restroom
facilities, but do carry toilet paper
and hand sanitiser with you these
are not easily available everywhere.
MEDICAL AID
There is no dearth of good hospitals
in bustling Jodhpur. Kamla Nagar
Hospital comes recommended
(00-91-291-2753477; Pal Link Rd).

GOOD TO KNOW

Virasat Experiences offers

the Bustling Bazaars of Jodhpur walk
through Tripolia Bazaar, which also
incorporates visits to block-printing
and tie-dyeing workshops (00-91-1415109090; www.virasatexperiences.com;
timings vary; ` 1,500).

map: dipti chalke

The Museum Shop

opp Lake Gulab Sagar; 5pm 10pm; mains

from ` 400). Panorama 360 in the same
complex, but with a slightly better view
due to its height, features a primarily
Indian menu (Haveli Inn Pal, opp Lake
Gulab Sagar; 7am 11pm, 12.30pm 3pm;
6pm 10pm; mains from ` 180).