nn vill) The objects of finishing can be one or more of the following |) To improve the appearance of the fabric, that is, make it more attractive or lustrous by operations like calendering shreinering, optical whitening ete r li) To improve the feel of the fabric by softening, stiffening etc. : ii) To cover faults in the original fabric, e.g. by starch finishing. iv) To increase the weight of the cloth, e.g. by back filling ~ with starch and china clay or by tin chloride treatment (for silk) To improve wearing qualities of cloth by making it shrink- resistant (e.g. by sanforising cotton cloth or by non- felting wool) crease resistant (by incorporating suitable resins) or free from pills and soiling (by anti-pilling or soil-release finishing); To make garments hold their shape and enable them to be worn without ironing e.g. by durable press finishing; vii) To impart special properties to the fabric for specific end- ~ uses such as water-proofing, flame-proofing, moth- proofing ete. To set the texture of certain fabrics and make others dimensionally stable e.g. by crabbing or potting (wool) and heat setting (synthetic fibre fabrics); To produce stronger and more durable fabrics such as seat covers of cars by coating, bonding and laminating; To produce novelty effects e.g. organdie fabrics by: parchmentising. v) vi ssification of Finishes livided into two broad classes : A finish can also be further (b) Permanent. A finish is last long. The effect of removed after washing. A ins _unaffected through as an lin tha cor19 or 9 Dr e io all the conditions of wear is subjected during its life-t and treatment to which ime, irs Physical or mechanical finishin operations on drying cylinders or st ‘operations (friction calendering, etc.) beetling, embossing and gl Raising, Sanforising and millin Sanforising and m temporary. the materiat 9 treatments include drying enters, various calendering chasing, schreiner calendering lazing, breaking and stretching, ig. Out of these, only Raising, illing are permanent finishes, the rest are Chemical finishes are of two types viz. finishes obtained by deposition of chemicals such as starch, China clay, oils, fats and waxes, synthetic resins, rubber latex, cellulose acetate, cellulose ethers, optical bleaching agents and so on. Of these, ‘finishes obtained by deposition of synthetic resins, rubber latex Cellulose acetate and cellulose ethers are permanent whereas the remaining are temporary. The second type of chemical finishes aré-obtaine y chemical reactions with the fibre. These include mercerising, parchmentising, immuni chlorination of wool, permenent setting of wool, treatment with ethylene oxide, formaldehyde, sail-release finish, Velan PF Tinish-ama 7 lame- retardant finish (with phosphorus and. nitrogen compounds); these are permanent finishes. Finishes for Different Fibres The common operations in the finishing of cotton goods include softening, stifening, weighting, damping, stretching, drying, raising, calendering, creping, beetling, decatising, sanforising and chemical finishing methods such as mercerising, parchmentising, mildew proofing, rot-proofing, flame-proofing, water-proof and water-repellent finishes, esterification and etherification, crease-resistant finish, durable press He coating, bonding and laminating and application of starch an synthetic resins.stato is less than that of cotton. In the op calendaring, minimum strain is used on rayon both in dry and wet states. Machines fighter in construction are sed 10 minimise strain and the fabric is proc jiggers and padding mangles. The exo not by mangling but by a vacuur full width and drying is carried out on stretching. Many rayon fabrics are drier Light calonders are used for calendering. Rayon fabri given ‘docatising’ treatment for imparting @ worl finish and 6 of water is Pi handle to ft, Anti-crease finish is given to spun-rayon fat ‘Al rayon fabrics and acetate rayon, in pariovir, have & be w temperatures for obtaining the best dried at relatively lo handle. Acetate rayon fuses at over 440°C and gives glaz fect it ig susceptible to hot diute alkali and dry heat Many rayon materials are given delustring treatment In wool finishing, treatments involving heat, moist oe ie Generally used. Wool is crease-tesistant and 22° ite elasticity is of a very high order: jery compac’ pre ‘excellent draping properties, this together with its scale structure enables vi milling - an important finishing treatment fabries to be made by Worsted fabrics are not milled. ‘Wool acquires permanent set by subjecting it 10 crabbin ising treatment Moth-proofing treatment is given mnotns, Pressing improves $02 ryes firmness and solidity to Oxton, It ie given anliesacink treah The operations in the finishing of silk are quite few, these include ‘smoothing and straightening, softening and stiffening, scrooping and finishing on the Felt Calender. ‘The operations in the finishing of synthetic fibre fabries ih 1g, blowing or decati to protect wool from attack thness and lustre of wool ar the fabric like calendering ment for preventing felting ‘soi-release finishing mainly include anti-piling, ent aie and So ng aiments sie waler-repellenol fire-pro a iS is gwen in the ning treaiment Maccount of the various Minis chapter: ’ 0090pressuré, the pressure being applied by compound levers and weights or By hydraulic system. stizzing Calender This is an ordinary tun at the same peripheral spee * between them. The bowls are arrang diagram (see Fig. 3.1) : . UZ { , ay , 4 > , Ne » Ge » Ap ] ‘ ~< | ae | in » | QD . Fig. 3.1 : Swizzing Calender; Bow! Nos, 3 and 6 are heated ® Swizzing means running the fabric between all the Dowis =, under the given conditions of heat_and_ pressure thus giving it ‘smooth appearance. oThe process closes the pores of the sa “simply Tattens it depending upon the pressure the bowis and the plasticity of the cotton fibres. A hot producés smoothness and lustre, but it does not maximum lustre as in friction calendering.awis which is_no slip wn in the becomes even en more lustrous thar habit coli ‘otton. General & three-bowl calender is used? ” n ti, oe belie bowl Of close-qrain ani re of coy and the t 7 chilled iron and is heated by steam or gas. Made to rotate at a speed 1.5 bowls (both of which run at the sar and the fabric is thus polishes When a light friction finish is d cotton bowls (top and bott In the tour-bow! friction calend consists of a steam-heated bowl, another steam-heated Fig. 3.2 ‘Three-Bowl Friction Callender jon calenders are used for ih, book cloth and tracing © us fabric by (eis to washing. fas! ein sh ao tet the fi pric reverts 10 is oth en friction caleBuuren) woye jou soop pases § xg MUD Bull ho pouiedo wadq eAeY "BUS aDIeq were abi se yons feuarwr B Jo sonqueNd yedwwod PU oon Mend ‘GuIAIp Jo poyreu mu Siu) fo UORONPONEA + aq 0} pales ueeq sayy pas a af the fabric gets swollen with water. Most Schreinered is, therefore, used for linings which are not washed ‘ amount of Schreinering is done_on goods dyed with an black. Embossing Calender Schreiner calender is itself an Emb 3 which fine lines are embossed on the cloth. Howev embossing calender, any desig Surface of the steel bowl and transferre engravings may be in lines or in figured 6f this calender are much bigger thar calender typical three-bow! ‘embossin a middle engraved steel bow! and top Gotfon having the same diameter whic it metal bowl, The steel bow! may be 20 jeter when the cotton bow! will be 60 cm in diar ensure repeat of the design an may 6 cotton BowL,( 1 ENGRAVED steel ; BOWL ae 2 % ae : COTTON ( gow. \ cLOTH | Bow! Nos. 1 and 3 : Cotton bowls Fig. 3.5 ‘Three-bow! Em! Bowl No. 2 bossing Calender inen the machine is idle jg heated and pressure is conditioned |.e Beewvewwr ~ ’ fa high degree of lustre, © ft Damask effect (.e 0 be produced 0” inishes theCecumy auuany Hiealis Halinignny OF POUNUIY Ine saone and is a mechanical finish. The process consists in hammering the fabric (entirely free from creases) with a series of heavy wooden (or metal) hammers which fall on the beam of cloth directly beneath them. During hammering, the cloth beam is slowly rotated and also moved to and fro laterally in order to distribute the hammering effect evenly. Further, in order to ensure even finish, the cloth is reversed to bring the inner layers to the outside and pounded again. The filling and pping of the beams is done outside the beetle. The usual machine comprises a very heavy iron frame with 40 wooden hammers operated by cams attached to a horizontal shaft called the “wiper beam”; the cams lift the fallers in sequence and allow them to fall on the roll of fabric which is wound on a robust iron shaft placed immediately beneath. The cloth is subjected to the hammering action for a period ranging from 12 to 40 hours on the old machine but this has been reduced to 6 hours ‘on the new type of all-metal beetling machine in which the blow is heavier than with the older wooden faller beetle. One defect of very prolonged beetling cn the older machines is the distortion and cracking of fibres at their most exposed points. The new type of all-metal beetling machine (devised by Frazer and Haughton) has reduced the time of beetling by more than half. Thus linen-cloth requiring 22 hours on the old wooden hammer Beetling machine can be given the same finish in just 5 hours on the new machine. This machine consists of a row ‘of double-ended metal hammers operated by two cam shafts. Two beams of cloth, one on each side of the row of hammers are beetled at one and the same ee 1 patlin fall by ide and are then lifted by the opposite cam ae Ce beam. The rate of beetling is about 60 o inute, The advantage of this machine is that @ it ycles per mini requires less time - almost one third - than the old machine nd (i) it treats two beams of cloth at one and the same time. Beetling is applied to certain qualities of cotton ae a apnere Is an this nergy. crease the stiff ally with eing 5 ers and | ble as it Seon | ommonly | operates | } b ' \ impinges d instead onomical oiled. The CHAPTER - 7 “Hee ANTI-CREASE, WASH-AND-WEAR AND DURABLE PRESS FINISHING Cotton, linen and regenerated cellulose rayon materials are most widely used because of their comfort during wear but they present a wrinkled or crumpled appearance and have to be frequently ironed to keep them free from creases. Aci inside the fibre was ease or ‘non-cru' npled, resisting process in which resins are formed i developed for making these materials anti ie. make them resist deformation or crumpling and if crur enable them to recover fram such crumpling rapidly wit affecting the inherent qualities of the fabric such as suppleness drape etc, Many fabrics treated with crease-resistant finish are marketed under the trade name ‘Tebilised fabrics’ meaning thereby that they are crease-resistal (crease resistant finish is regarded as a general purpose finish because it brings other improvements in the fabric such as reduced tend shrinkage, better handle and feel and increased dry and strength in the case of rayon fabrics. Types of Easy Care Finishes ~// There are three types of easy care finishes viz. (i) Anti crease finishes, (ji) Wash-and-wear finishes and (iii) Durable press finishes all of which are produced by similar techniques the fabric is treated with a precondensate of_a (thermo-plastic or thermo-settifig) resin or a cross-linking ageT! © the presence of a catalyst followed by curing fo set the resin or to form. cross finkg-or-both, Wash-and-wear and ‘durable press finishes involve the use of cross-linking agents, along with a catalyst a softener and a jetting agent. “Wastrand-wear fabrics are those which after w ashing can be dried and the garments made from them can be without ironing or pres ish imparts sovery only and is. sui h a Tinish is totally presse eases are not requires But suct creases are required or where the ig ironing is hindered. In the The inserted creases quickly wear and the garment fooks shabby. For dd freedom from ironing, the fabric is given @ or “permanent " finish and oa ment has been cul pressed to I ape. press’ it, sewn and Baeaaenenennenweereeereoeeeeeae @Permanent press garments are those which after washing and drying retain their shape permanently. The progress in easy caré development has boon through three stages: the first called crease-resistance, tho second wash-and-wear and the third stage called durable press or permanent press finish. Mechanism of Creasing Cellulose molecules consist of crystalline and amorphous regions bound by hydrogen bonds with links with hydroxyl groups. The hydroxyl groups in the amorphous regions are far apart and remain unbound. When a cotton cloth is folded and presséd, some of the hydrogen bonds at the boundary of the amorphous and crystalline regions break as such bonds are fairly weak; at the samo time free hydroxyl groups in the amorphous fegions approach other free hydroxyl groups and when they come close to each other they get bound again by hydrogen bonds, These newly formed hydrogen bonds prevent unfolding of the cloth ie, the credse becomes, more or less pefmanent, But when it is unfolded and’ironed with a hot iron, the newly formed hydrogen bonds break and the cloth regains its earlier state and the crease disappears, Thus the folding and unfolding behaviour of cotton fabrics may be directly attributed to the ability of the tree hydroxyl groups_in the amarphous region to get bound to each other, “Tt, therefore, follows that if cotton is to be made crease resistant, the hydrogen bond-forming capacity of the hydroxy! groups should either be blocked or removed. Ih acetate rayon, the hydroxyl groups in ‘the amorphous region Are “Converted into acetate groups _and are thus blocked so that it has better crease-resistange. Another method of making the fabriq crease- resistant is to modify the cellulose with certain chemicals which react with the hydroxy! groups oF cellulose thereby cross-linking the molecules. Thus the hydrogen’ bond forming capacity of the hydroxyl_groups_involve ‘oss-linking is removed, Further, it imparts ‘stability to the fabric and makes it more stant to creasing. — nti-crease Finish The earliest attempt to make cotton material croase- nt was made by Tootal Boradhurst, Lee Co, of : formaldehyde precondénsates were lanchester. Ur yi or used to deposit the resin in tho fib alkaline conditions urea and form de condense 44cc shing and to give Monomethylol urea (MMU) or di s in easy tinder or dimethyio! urea (DI first called NH Tre 4 the third He NH-CH,OH ish. i O=c e 0=C amorphous Laks NH, n hydroxyl | Urea formaldehyde Mono methylol urea ons_are far folded and aa ate bs NH-CH,OH bonds are O=c - oe - Hi = ae ithe a + 2HCHO —>0=C qos. ars ; NH, NH-CH,OH d again by | Urea formaldehyde rethylol urea ( — : y Dimethylol urea (DMU) te or less i These. products “known as precondensates are highly. va hot | iron, - reactive and edn react: further. Therefore, dimethylol urea 's further methylated to give a stable product which is crystalline and readily soluble in water. These precondensates are of a molecular size sufficiently low to permit penetration of the amorphous regions ‘of cellulose, When heated under acid conditions, these condensates form urea formaldehyde synthetic resin. The precondensates are prepared by treating 100 parts of formaldehyde (40% solution) adjusting its pH to 7 by adding » caustic soda, with 44 parts of pure urea raising the pH of the mixture to 9 with caustic soda and alter adding equal amount ‘of water, heating it to 60° C for 15 minutes and then cooling rapidly. The molar ratio of urea to formaldehyde is 1:1.6. The ndensates are marketed in the form of a colourless liquid which can be mixed with water in any proportion. The fabric to be treated should be in a highly absorbent condition and as as possible. It is padded with the precondensate solution (100 to 300 g/t solid content) containing an acid catalyst like diarnmonium hydrogen phosphate or ammonium chioride with 70% pick-up, dried carefully on a stenter at 80°C and ‘cured at 150°C for 2 to 3 minutes. The synthetic resin Is formed polymerisation and is deposited in the fibre forming a three ; thus it becomes crease-resistant. A slow to minimise migration of resin to the ic is conditioned for 6-8 hours before ceched with soda ash and wettingagent at 60°C for 10 minutes and then rinsed with hot water first and then with cold water and dried. Melamine formaldehyde precondensates also polymerise to insoluble resins at high temperatures under acidic conditions and are used for making cotton fabrics ¢ ease-resistant. Trimethoxy methyl melamine -TMM- and hexamethoxy methyl melamine are two precondensates commercially available in % liquid form; like urea formaldehyde precondensates they are | used after dilution for padding the fabric followed by curing at : 150°C, N N CNH, C-NH, +6 HCHO —>) CH,OH-NH- aan C-NH-CH, OH N N i N N CNH, C-NH-CH,OH Melamine Formaldehyde Trimethylol Melamine N N . CNR o-NR, CNR, CNR, Ei N N N CNA, TrimethSe) methy! Hexa methoxy methyl melamine - HMM melamine : TMM : R=H.CH,OCH, — where R, = H (CH,CH,), Many resin treated cotton fabrics contain 6 to 10% of the ch resin and spun rayon 15 to 20% resin on the weight of the to untreated material. 4 The resin treated fabrics suffer from certain disadvantages f fre such as decrease in tensile strength_and, abrasion. e, harsh fee! and chlorine rétenition during hypochlorite bleaching ie, chlorine from hypochlorite is retained by NH group of the se resin as NCI, This affects the resistance to creasing and also } 5 helps in the yellowing tendency of the treated fabric. Melamine formaldehyde products do not absorb chlorine but the treated clothy becomes yellowish and their crease-resistance is not i satisfactory. with jash-and-wear Finishes These finishes are based on cyelic ‘and they constitute the ethylene ureas and the Stage of progress 10 AGith hot water Bady vate tones, L (molar ratio 1 2) to Givé dimethylol ethylene ea (OMEU) whict Polymerise to fF 9985 Not contain -NH- group: fie conditions fp THE Precondensates of DBMEU ae cus? chlorine retention ise-resistant. f yellow liquids which can be ay marketed in the form of pale sthoxy methyl [> [or use. ixed with water in any proportion j available in ates re they are CH, OH y curing at NH-CH, he 2 -CH, x +2HCHO > 0=C of h f CNH-CH, OH HCH, N-CH, N 3 CH, OH Ru thylene urea Formaldehyde —_Dimethylol ethylene ured : OMEU Melamine The cloth is padded with a diluted solution of DMEU containing a non-ionic_softener and a catalyst (diammonium ) ; hetogen phosphate); polyethylene emulsion is added to the {pad liquor to improve teat igth and abrasion resistance. The CNR, fabric is dried and cured at 150°C for 3 minutes and washed N with an anionic detergent (3 g/l) and soda ash (4 gf) at 60°C i for 10 minutes and then rinsed with hot waler first and then j with cold water. HMM - pean’ DMEU ditectly reacts with cellulose and is. highly etiective H), in producing crease-resistance of wash-and-wear ft) with good dle and the finish is fast chlorine resistance. It gives a Soft han g 10 10% of the | (5 ashing. DMEU treated fabrics have high crease recovery s weight of the | icles (250 to 260°). But all amino aldehyde products have the drawbacks of chiorine retention, fishy odour and liberation of ee formaldehyde. Friazone formaldehyde consensates give excellent crease n and wash-and-wear properties. The triazones are by reacting urea, formaldehyde and aliphatic _amines. ition of ethylamine To dimethylol urea (DMU) gives rea 1 mole, ethylamine 1 mole and formaldehyde 4 0 roducts are marketed i h can be mixed with tion. Before application, the product is diluted of cl EE other ingredients like non-ionic wating Cnt e emulsion and catalyst are a 5 ne ee the above liquor, dried at 90°C and curedfor 4 minutes; it is then w i . fashed with a non-ionic detergent | 3 _ and soda ash (4 g/l) at 60°C for 15 minutes and rinsed | DP Pr with hot and cold water. A thorough afterwash of the treated [ fabric is necessary to remove acid catalyst and odours of | delayed i . | byproducts. | finish Finish in | Durable Press Finishes f agent an This is a further development of wash-and-wear finishes. 5 2 Urea formaldehyde or melamine formaldehyde product is not suitable for durable press finish because its precondensate cures rapidly and it is very difficult to keep it in an uncured State for a long time. The durable finish processes differ from the normal wash-and-wear finishes in that in durable press, the fabric is impregnated with high concentration of resin and-cured at_high temperature for a longer time. Dihydroxy_dimethylol ethylene urea type resins were the first to be used for thi purpose. DMEU isalso_used for durable press treatment. Jimethylo! propylene urea (DMPU), Dimethyl dihydroxy ethylene urea (DMDHEU) and Ethyl carbamates are the only § resins being used successfully for durable press treatment. The resin suitable for this process shotild remain inactive within the fabric till the garment is cured and should not become yellow nor should it develop any odour, it shduld be fast to" Washing and should not affect the light fastness of dyes. Because of the combination of high resin content and prolonged curing at high temperature, there is loss_in strength and reduction in istance of the fabric. lonic or non-ionic softeners are, therefore, added to the resin finishing bath to minimise _loss in strength and abrasion resistance. Emulsions of polyethylene, polyvinyl chloride, silicones etc. are also_added: the catalyst it id liberating ammonium compound used is MgCl,, zinc nitrate, « etc. ee Finishes based on methoxy ethyl carbamate, CH,OCH,, CH,-0-CO-NH, are used in treatments for wash-and-wear ang durable press garments. Other resins used are DMDHEU andjmplier at 7 ethyl carbonate. HOH,C-N-CO-N-CH,OH HOHC = CHOH ©, H, CON, ‘CH,OH ethylene urea Dimethylol ethyl CH,OH lol —_ dihydroxy (DMDHEU)= detergent 3 and finsed | DP Process the treated Besides the conventional crease-resistance proces Gelayed or deferred curing processes are used fo rail Sats ree cen sed for durable press : ich the fabric is impregnated with a cross-linking gent and a catalyst. It is then delivered to the garment maker = 9 1S Caried Out in such a way that only partial cross-linking oe place. The garment is then fabricated and the creases ga are inserted and are made permanent by hot pressing curing at the appropriate temperature. Dimethylol dihydroxy ethylene urea (DMDHEU) is most commonly used {or this purpose. The presenc he two OH groups J to the carbon atoms increases /_ | groups 9! @ reactivity of the methyl with cotton cellulose especially at iow mpératures which is desirable for delayed action. lol ethyl carbamate has also been successfully used as a reagent for deferred cure technique. The goods are impregnated with the carbamate, 4 catalyst (MgCl,.6H,0), a wetting agent-and-an additive (polyacryiate, polyether. jurathane or silicone) t9_ improve abrasion resistance, They are then dried in a hot flue or stenter A become yellow Band stored for 4 to 6 months. Within this period the fabric is > fast to washing cut and made into garments, creased and pleated into shape iyes. Because of carefully with a hot iron. Finally the garment is cured at 160°C slonged curing at for 10 minutes, washed and dried. Another method ls to ‘and reduction in ufacture the garment first, treat it with the liquor (resin), NON A Ebydroextract, press the crease pleats with a hot iron, dry and Ioure, wash and dry The blended fabrics have better crea 400% cellulosic fabrics. These fabrics still hi icularly after washing. They are also given a durable press with resin treatment. In_the two stage fixation process ‘or the Polyset process, the e wet fixation process fixed and the fabric is kept in a batch on a rotating for 2 hours, then washed and dried; it is then ‘in with a catalyst (zinc nitrate) (as the cross-linking d zirconium acetate (as the polymerisation catalyst) ; ‘stitching the garment and hot pressing the . the garment is cured at 160°C for 10 to In ing dyed fabrics, disperse dy0s a high » sublimation have to be used as they migrate during sing change in colour and affecting colour fastness. e used for this B ess treatment thyl dihydroxy tes are the only $s treatment. The nactive within theblended cotton/polyester fabric is given below & 10-12% cross-linking agent 0.5-1 gf wetting agent 3-4% catalyst (MgCl,.6H,O) 1-16 g/l additive (polyacrytate emulsion to improve abrasion resistance) High wrinkle recovery in cotton can only be obtained by fp means of high degree of cross-linking of cotton which leads to & Considerablé loss in tear strength and abrasion fesistance and & thus reduces the life span of all durable press garments. In durable press finish, the fabric is impregnated with high concentration of resin and cured at high temperature for a longer time. Such severe conditions are mainly responsible for heavy loss in strength and resistance to abrasion. Attempts ; have therefore, been made to improve abrasion resistance Methods of Improving Abrasion Resistance Three methods are used for improving abrasion resistance: i) By incorporating softeners or thermoplastic resins in the resin bath” * ji) By increasing the size of the cross-links by means position by adopting Polyset process or wet ithods and ii) By reducing extent of cross-linking by means of differential \king technique i) Softeners and thermoplastic resins help in decreasing the inner fibre friction and extent of cross-linking, It is possible to use 60 to 80% of the amount of cross-linking agent normally required for durable press performance. By using softeners, a wrinkle recovery of 300 to 330° is obtained which cannot be achieved with satisfactory wearing | properties by cross-linking agents alone. Polyethylene, polyacrylates, polyurathanes, polyethers, vinyl acrylate | polymers and silicones are used as softeners. ane softener is added to the resin bath, Polyethylene emulsion | to the extent of 5% is used; polyacrylate emulsion 4% is) used along with 3% polyethylene softener and gives good wrinkle recovery but is susceptible A typical recipe for deferred cure process for a heat-set E mz i)Polyurathanes have been used recently to improve abrasion resistance; they are not compatible with: acid catalysts used in the resin bath. H P mathod is used; first, the fabric is padded with 4-1 polyuirathane dispersion, dried at 60°C for 10 minutes; it js again padded with §0 to 75% of the amount of cross inking agent normally required with catalyst and 3° polyathylene softener - to compensate for harshness. Polyurathanes are not suitable for white goods and the fabric has a tendency to become y iow during curing at 160°C, Polyethers are also applied by two stage method Vinyl acrylate for a hentsot ence a two s‘age yn to improve be obtained by which leads to pfesistance and ie and are not sullable for white goods gg garments. In polymers are more durable than acry\ ates. Use of water mated! with high B repaints like silicones for softening purpose is the mperature for & trend; it Improves abrasion resistance and wrir / Engg ma recovery. 3 to 5% silicone | in the resin bath mmajon. Attempts | jy th the Polyset process, the fabric is impregnated with a %4), a polymerisation agent (2 aesencs f selected cross-link ance . catalyst and dried at GO°C for 8 minutes; Mt then sresion resistance at 160°C for 5 minutes and washed to remove the ‘ , unreacted cross-linking agent and dried. It is then padded oss-linking catalyst like solution containing a cf nitrate (1%) and (1 to 3%), After drying, the fabri 4-6 months, with a MgCI,.6H,0 of zine polyurathane or silicone lastic resins in the | T. a softener such as inks by means of et process of wel fs cured at 160°C for & minutes oF stored for f sewn into garments, creased with hot iron and then cured at 160°C. In the wet fixation process, the resins are de the wat swollen fibre for imparted oe os deposited ins Jo press finish to cotton. (Text. ition of resin the fabric is catalyst like zine nitrate and cure ure. inking, the fabric Is impregnated with Gros! Jiquor and ‘batched without drying or curing tor phours, The untreated chemicals are finally washed differential crosé ‘only in gelected regions cof th ‘which is free {rom cross-links I -structure ra high abrasive forces: 900 K Res. J. 1967, 70) treated with a cross data hi a ique, eross-links are e fabric so that the js able towoollen yarns and fabrics. The compound is insoluble in water but is mixed with size or other finish. It is soluble in ammonia, impregnated with 0.2% salicylaniide gives excellent against mildew. On drying, the ammonia is driven off sit remains. Shirlan NH is a water soluble salt and is used along with an anionic surfactar# to enetration modification of cellulose makes ft resistant to jew. Cyanocethylation of cotton makes @ immune k by all kinds of micro-organisms. Partial acetylation of eC ing its surface with acetic acid and degree of resistance to attack D i a sms but its breaking strength D benzyl ammonium phosphai diphenyl methane give excellent pro’ latter is nontoxic and non-irritant. ROT-PROOFING Rotting or biological decay of tex material is exposed to high moisture c prolonged periods or when used so as wet soil or other contaminant for a long tim tanks, tarpaulins, collapsible boats, pontoons, sandbags, and ropes and cordages are often exposed to such outdoor conditions including exposure to sea water. Unless they are protected, their useful life can be seriously shortened by microbial attack. Hence there is need to make them rot-proof. Rot-proofing has been defined as the protection trom biological decay of textiles exposed to moisture with or without contact * with soil or other contarninant, the moisture content being either intermittently or continuously high enough to permil active growth of bacteria as well as moukis (Fargher, J.S.D.C_ 1945, 61, 120). The organisms which attack textile materials are of two types (i) the moulds or fungi and (jf) the bacteria which are very 'minute and are not easily visible. in all cases the attack is by warmth and moisture as in the case of mildew re higher humidity than fun The actual : material is brought about by enzymes nisms which then eat the degradation is increased if the material contains AS, flours etc. Even the natural impurities itself serve as food; therefore, the first Proof material would be to scour all Shes. ling agent should be both fungicidal and be non-toxic to human beings (ii) have (iii) not discolour the material and (iv) the goods. itimony, bismuth, cadmium, cobalt and @ aS outdoor fungicides; tellurides of to the fabric by padding method using ‘ith water followed by drying. Copper €d as rot-proofing agents as they are aphthenates are Particularly more 1 cuprammonium solution for ® make them rot-proof and Padding method to cotton film over the fibres. The Isible for imparting rot- h_attack the s. However, there S the strength of f naphthenates fot-proofing, Of 0.35% Present to3 ate’ win 10PPT ine unpalatable as to cause the larvae to starve and them that eat wool. The substances used should t to adversely affect the textile character of the stuffs ly days a number of dyestuffs having good moth- ties were used. Martius Yellow (dinitro naphthol) nly used for moth-proofing wool followed by estuffs of tripheny!_ methane structure such as lan CNET Spplied from an acid at boil. The proof was fast to washing, light, ind other agencies including decatising, and had skin. Geigy introduced Mitin FF in 1939, the Of which is the water soluble colourless ing formula cl luble in hot water; it can me dye at boil - taking { withstands numerous not affected by light, etc. The only factorusing a mixture of fluorides such as chromium ‘sodium antimony fluoride, he _proofin ff because the fluorides are decompos: 9: ances “as phospho tung molybdic acid, etc. are used for moth-proofing ting them with metallic salts to form insoluble ‘ore effective than sodium d forms the basis of “Larvex” preparation; but it is p washing. Chromium fluoride and antimony fluoride id at 80°C for 20 minutes give adequate proofing. In cess, ammonium fluor-antimonate is used but much ofing is lost on washing. Organic Compounds B and Mystox LS are two products based on 31 which are used with a protein like casein for wy can be applied (4%) during dyeing. The not fast to washing. DD used in small quantities (0.25%) to confer But the substance |s volatile and after effectiveness is reduced; further, when is applied to wool during manufacture, es on washing or dry cleaning; it is thod of moth-proofing. By using 1 to um silico fluoride is m temains on the fibre after several Bi t to washing (Goodall, J.S.D.C., in mills to protect tops, rovings, of Geigy contains 10% DDT. (pH 1) is also used for moth- es the material harsh. can also confer a permanent s purpose, undyed scoured fixative disperible in water| ed by drying. The moth- © washing, dry cleaning, ‘not costly and there is stic acid, antimony t T - dichloro dipheny! effect 1 disulphiy linkages workers, : We chain me » others, ¢ 4 NH \ p and ol eal the w separi acid chainss of proofing is reduced with repeated ore, considered that modification of the Ol may result in permanent moth-proofing st method of moth-proofing in which the wool are converted into_bis-thi jer was devised by Harris and his co- keratin which in turn is built up of long ide by side and cross-linked with, among tine linkages: -S-CH,- CH eo NH ages in wool are responsible for making the en_by_reduction with eby the ‘cystine cross- al cystine linkage a short fatty ups that are- mn Blane Ine 04 al (CHO - CHO) is used for this H.N-CHOM, OH, CHO-CHO (glyoxal) H=N-CH,-CH,-CH,- ~* ronger linkage complete substitution of “enough if hall the cystine linkages (those whieh are For less protected, Those by the redueing solution be readily attacked be the first to be f, wool becomes ot removed by in the case as acrylica dimenei,"2@*€9 condition Tu. Pe aC C é! STIFFENIN' garment is one of its most lly it is desirable to leave te are soft but are usually ‘contain impurities. When the @ soft. Thus raw silk which land rough feel but when the ously soft. Wool on sheep's ifter scouring. Cotton when Soft feel. When these fibres manufacture they acquire a In bleaching, dyeing and an their natural form. Many papery feel. In @s a firm solid inted fabrics fabric harsh. epee(0 Anionic Setteners Thess inotede soape. oN, fat ort 0, ‘eiphated and supnonaiad ols stele a tty ond Texto mateale get nogatve'y charged aqveoue bath nd ty tap ogatney cred rs ‘ubetances Therlore, tre soe have {ard Trge rou have to bo opp ¥ cin tects. Soaps ot soca and yaaa stor (CM, = OOM} wth ghyebroL nonstate ave wed 10 ‘smcoth hance Wo itn al myens Edhar of de, kis and wanes (5 9a upple hanehe o the erator: they have greta tnd nparta five 08 arco. Stipa tl Or 1 ergs amount of ly tatir bm tae {tho nulphuric eaters F.CH, 0: £0,Nh . ‘With enlorsulpnonic ack wherwas the sulshonaten LOH a formed by rnacton wit song sulphuric ack, fAlcohote of the cetyl oF sleary type are vniuabe ‘agents because 0! the dry wary suiteco elect thay Mong wth a s2t00pP hana Tha anicricsotlerers are marketed th fom thc paste wich can be sited with tong war, ny fale to hard water, ike aabon and OHO acho, Garnls, Ocencis aro scr wail known preparations. 1), Cationic Softeners Thane warm hav ty 1 reaver ‘aera! ev acqwoutn bat They ave good substi ta Gelilonic malaria! but rot t eyethote fees. The ca Frodvete are. Corl rasta, the moat important Thaw ave obtained by 01h noniorics is mir ‘oud pin? Cus point the lempertire al whch the non ove product beciraes, Iraolble (lauds eu) ata carcennation ef 1% saksion They have sollening ant Tat nonisiyng properties: they de voh dsccour tne fatice. They ave marked iy the foam creamy pastes nich car be diuted wih hot italar. They can be. apoied to the tabi by padding 9-2 gM ane oyna, Reactive Soteners Troe softeners cherscaty corti vt tw ef land give a permaract extend acon Thay ake Weer report twos One acl Arca ace ‘o octatscy onyx pyitnum cote, howe procs te Vol PE when te Sona pyidiniim chlorite 08 by 122) any Kid oF Here 09 squat, died, cared wed warned,Polystyrene It is prepared by polymerisation of styrene n CH, = CH cy styrene polystyrene A slightly alkaline dispersion of plasticised polystyrene has bonding and film-forming properties. It coats the fabric and gives a stiff finish on furnishings and upholstery materials Resins Urea formaldehyde and melamine formaldehyde precondensates when used for producing crease-resistant finish also produce a stiff finish. It will be seen from the above that for producing stiffness, mechanical methods are not of much use and only chemical treatments by incorporating suitable chemicals or resins in the fibre material bring about the stiffening effect. aa0aQCHAPTER - 15 ANTI-PILLING, ANTI-STATIC. AND SOIL-RELEASE FINISHING Anti-pilling Finish Pilling is formation of small knots of fibres on the surface of the fabric. These bundles of fibres are held to the fabric by entanglement with the surface fibres and spoil the appearance ‘of the fabric or garment. The main reason for the formation of pills is that the fibre has very high tenacity (tensile strength). High tenacity fibres like nylon and polyester form pills; blends of high and low tenacity fibres such as terywool also form pills. In the case of low tenacity fibres like cotton, wool, silk and viscose rayon there is no pilling problem because the pills even if they are formed, are rubbed off or washed off during wear. In fact, the problem of pilling is mainly confined to polyester. Factors Influencing Pilling Factors influencing pilling are : i) fibre characteristics like staple length, denier and section; q ii) yarn construction and iii) fabric construction. i) Fibre Characteristics Longer the staple length, less is the tendency pills; higher the denier, lesser the pilling (as fewer fibres to entangle in a higher denier fib with circular cross-section have a greater tet pilling than those with a serrated or irregul section. Higher the fibre crimp, lesser is the ter pilling. ji) Yarn Construction Finer the yarn count, lesser is the pilling; also twist in the yarn, lower is the tendency to pillit fibres get firmly bound together not allowing Occur); thick places in the yarn contain less the loosely held fibres join to form pills dui Protruding fibres on the hairy yarn help pilling. ‘show less pilling than single yarns. ann life, lov quality Theret or chet, “SOLVENT SOLVENT FINISHING Solvent finishing i development in be processes where the dees not form a have to be applied to solvents like benzene, solvents such as benz tnchlorethylene, acetone, spirit, ethyl finishing depending prechiorethyiene becaust nature, low heat of @ Finishing Proce as under Water-prooft and Wi hot mixtures of naphtha. Heavy cotton! by applying to them rapelient. Water fabrics such asthe solvent frem the fabric and curing the tabriowheresreguired | Operation can be cartied out continuously on the! mangles. The solvent is removed by passage of the fabric through a hot ‘ air chamber or over hot cans and about 80%. of volatiliged Solvent is recovered by a cooling and condensing system, This recovery is increased to 90% by passing exhaust ain.through @ bed of activated charcoal. Alternatively, the. ‘steam flash’ recovery system is used which gives a high dagrea of solvent reclamation. Drum type Dry Cleaning Machines These machines have an outer drum casing of galvanised iron and an inner perforated drum of stainless steel; the material is placed in the inner drum which rotates and has a capacity of 100 kg. There is an arrangement for lifters in the drum turn over the goods to ensure uniform treatment. Only one Id can be treated at a time; therefore, the process: discontinuous. The treatment liquor is pumped into the Gi containing the goods and the drum rotated for 4 minutes, finishing liquor is pumped back to the storage tank and goods centrifuged for one minute and after standing for a minutes, they are dried by hot air The solvent charge is recovered by distillation at evaporation and condensation are the only means of purifyir it completely. In the preliminary cistilation, the bath is reduge to a certain residual concentration and the last remains of th solvent are removed from the residue by injection of § during final distillation. The temperature of steam has controlled to avoid decomposition of chlorinated solvents presence of water at high temperatures into trichlore acetic @ which is highly corrosive. In drum type special machines there are low pl drums to facilitate loading and unloading of long lengths fabric. They have a double distillation unit; in one of the solvent is thickened and in the other it is finally dist During drying, both solvent and water are lost inae proportion as a result of which moisture content of t is reduced requiring re-humidification. Advantages of Solvent Finishing (i) In solvent finishing, more than 80% of the sten moo = =p a] a8 a = a ab Products water based on | i employed trom the soy Tepellence The onsen the fabric a4 in the process 1s recovereu anu wcromiee =~ sg effluent disposal problem as in the case of aqueou system. (i) tha solvent system, drying of the material is quicker as compared to that in the aqueous system because the specific heat and heat of evaporation of the solvent are considerably lower than that of water; there is saving in energy also. (iil) Less floor space is required for drying the material in a solvent system than in the aqueous systert because of the compact solvent recovery plant. (iv) When water is used as a medium, there is possibility of shrinkage of the fabric; in solvent system, there is no shrinkage of the fabric during finishing There is no fibre swelling when finishing is solvents and therefore such fibres and fabric cons which are sensitive to water can be conveniently wv Disadvantages of Solvent Finishing () Water is cheap and readily available, this is not solvents. (ii) Solvents cannot be used in many finishing instance, water has to be used for certain finis like starches. Water cannot be replaced complet pure solvents in cross-linking treatments of cotte since swelling of the fibres is essential to get distribution of cross-links and this is not ind solvents. (iii) Some finishing processes in use today are reactions which cannot be carried out in the water. s FOAM FINISHING Foam is nothing but a collection of small b on or in a liquid by agitation, fermentation ete. In fo small bubbles are generated in the finishing liquor bubbles are deposited on the fabric by a suitable When these bubbles come in contact with the fabric (in dry or wet condition) they burst or a blanket of foam and the fabric WBND PHA Poke oan WOIS OUFSI) INE NYU Is aLoUIvEG Uy Wie iow we as Pendhates the interfibre spaces by capillary action is. in brief, forms the basis of foam finishing. Object of Foam Finishing In the conventional machines like the padding mai jie, the fabric is impregnated with the liquor and squeezed; en after squeezing, about 60% liquor (depending on the peentage expression) is left on the cloth; this liquid picked by |» fabric (with high wet pick-up) has to be removed by evaporition in drying. To remove 1 kg of water 1.6 kg of steam is © quired Thus, during drying there is a high consumption of energy. In foam finishing, the fabric is not impregnated with the finishing Yiquor but bubbles are deposited on it using a limited juantity of liquor which means that its wet pick-up is very ie. it contains very little water. Obviously, such a foam treated fabric requires less heat or less energy to remove this water ir drying | as compared to the energy required to remove water ‘rom the fabric with a high wet pick-up. This is the main object of foam | finishing. One great advantage of foam finishing, thereiore, Is considerable saving in energy consumption. In fac. foam finishing is one of the two methods used to reduce ‘ne wet pick-up in which a limited quantity of the liquor is a lied to the fabric, the other method being to remove the liquor toa greater extent by higher expression i.e. by greater seezing : using special rollers like the Roberto roll. Generation of Foam and Foaming Auxiliaries Compressed air is used for generating foam. Foam generators which consist of a series of blades rotating in closed chamber are used to mix the liquor and air which are accurately metered and the foam is delivered through « st hose pipe to the point where it is to be applied. A wetting and a foaming agent are added to the finishing \iquor " generate a light or dense foam. More wetting agent and foaming agent produces a light foam and less wetling and more foaming agent produces a dense foam. Tightly and heavy fabrics require light foam whereas loosely fabrics i.e. fabrics with high porosity require dense foatn such as sodium laurate and sodium myristate are good agents. Sodium laury! sulphate is one of the most ff foaming agents and is commonly used in foaming prepara 143SSS—— Advantages of Foam Finishing (i) Since only a limited quantity of the finishing liquor is used for foam finishing, there is no wastage of liquor. Farther since the water content of the fabric is reduced ‘ considerably before drying, there is considerable saving . in energy consumption during drying. Since the drying 7 time is reduced the rate of production is increased. (ii) With liquids it is difficult to distribute even a small quantity evenly in every fibre throughout its thickness but when foam is produced by diluting the liquid with compresse@ | air and is deposited on the fabric, it spreads evenly every fibre giving uniform finish. (iii) As the liquor pick-up in foam finishing is not depend on the moisture content of the fabric, wet-on- application of the foam is possible. Disadvantages of Foam Finishing (i) If the foam is unstable, it collapses prematurely gi streaky and uneven finish; also if the foam is too stable it does not collapse evenly on the fabric giving une finish. (ii), When foam is deposited on the surface of a fabric, the surface fibres in immediate contact with the foam absorb a higher quantity of the finishing agent than Ji underlying fibres; also, the moisture absorbed by surface fibres is greater leading to migration di subsequent drying. This affects even distribution of tf finishing agent throughout the fabric. (iii) Those resins and cross-linking agents which al have an adverse effect on the foaming prop including catalysts and softeners cannot be used as | will defoam the preparation. If all the components of preparation are not compatible with one another inhibit the foaming properties. p