CHNG I: XC NH CC THNG S K THUT CHO SN

PHM
1. Xc nh nguyn liu ca sn phm
Phng php xc nh:
-

t di ngn la:

Rt mt si t mnh vi ra, sau tin hnh t si va rt t chy di ngn la ta thy

cc hin tng sau:
Khi ngi ta nghe mi ging mi tc chy,
x rt kh bt la, khi chy chy rt chm. Kt lun: c x thin nhin gc protein.
Tro c mu en, ng thnh cc, khi bp
C th 100% hoc pha.
th v vn ra.
-

Soi di knh hin vi :

Rt mt x nh v soi di knh hin vi ta thy

mt x c nhiu vy, do ta c th kt lun
nguyn liu trn l len.

c b

Cho tc dng vi cc cht ha hc:

Cht ha

Hin tng

Kt lun

hc
Dung dch Ch c lp mu bn ngoi si tan ra, si hu nh khng b khng
H 2 SO 4

nh hng.

pha

vi cotton.

75% .

Dung
NaOH

dch Si tan ra dn dn , mt dn lp mu ri tan dn cho n 100% l x

ht.

len.

long.

Si mi cho vo dd KOH

Sau mt thi gian, si tan dn dn

Si tan hon ton trong dung dch

Kt lun : Sau cc th nghim trn ta c th kt lun nguyn liu to thnh vi trn

l len 100%.

Tnh cht ca nguyn liu (len 100%) :

- L x protein t nhin c ngun gc t lng ng vt (thng l cu), c ct

hoc chi vo thi k thay lng
- mn, cu trc v tnh cht ca len ph thuc vo ging cu.
- Vi len chi k c lm t si se ca x len di v mn
- Vi len chi th c lm t si xon thp v len th

Tnh cht:
- X len c bn va phi (t 1-2g/d)
- gin t ln (khi t ln hn khi kh).
- phc hi bin dng tt.
- Khng tch tnh in nhiu.
- C kh nng khng axit, nhng rt d b tn cng bi base yu, ngay c
nng thp, long.
- D b tn cng bi mt s cn trng hoc con nhy nhng c kh nng khng
nm mc.

- C bng cao n trung bnh.

- Vi len c cm gic s tay mm trung bnh v c r tt
- Thm ht cao v tnh cht truyn m rt tt.
- C bn thp n trung bnh, nhng co gin v phc hi tt
- C kh nng chu mi mn, t to vn ht trn vi do bn khng cao.
- C kh nng khng nhu tt.
- D nhum vi bn mu tt.
- Kh bt chy, chy rt chm ngay c khi tip xc trc tip vi ngn la, khi chy
c mi tc chy, vn than xp, d bp vn.
- S dng rng ri trong cc ng dng dt may, nh s thoi mi tin ngh v thm
m, thng c s dng pha trn vi x cellulose v x nhn to.
2. Xc nh cc c trng v tnh cht ca si
Phng php thc hin : Theo TCVN 5785-1994 ta tin hnh o chiu di v khi lng
ca si.
o khi lng : S dng cn
o chiu di : + Cn mi ln 10 on, chiu di mi on 5cm.
+ Tin hnh o khi lng v nhp s liu.
+ Thc hin 5 ln nh vy v nhp kt qu vo bng.
Ln o
1
2
3
4
5
Tng

Chiu di (cm)
50 cm
50 cm
50 cm
50 cm
50 cm
250 cm

Khi lng (g)

0,011 g
0,011 g
0,011 g
0,012 g
0,011 g
0,056 g

Ta c cng thc tnh chi s si :

T = khi lng ca 1000m vt liu (tex)
T = 22,4 tex
Ne =

Chn Ne=26, tnh li chi s:

590,5
22,4

Tex =

= 26,86

590,5
Ne

= 22,71

1000

Nm = 22,71 = 44,03
Bng chi s
Chi s
Tex
Ne
Nm

Gi tr
22,71
26
44,03

3. Xc nh cc c trng v tnh cht ca vi

Phng php : s dng knh lp soi cu to vng si trn mt vi.
Kiu dt
Cht liu
Mt dc (hng vng/cm)
Mt ngang ( ct vng/cm)
c im cu to :

Single Jersey
Len 100%
18
18

Kiu an mt mt phi l kiu an c bn n gin nht trong dt kim an ngang.

Mi hng vng do mt si dt to nn tp hp cc cung kim hng ln trn trong

mt ct vng ch hng dt ca vi.

Vi c hai mt tri v vi c hai mt phi khc nhau r rt. Mt phi gm tp hp
cc vng si phi, hin r cc ct vng vi cc tr vng ni ln trn nh nhng
ch V chng ln nhau. Mt tri gm tp hp cc vng si tri ni r cc hng
cung vng ( cung kim v cung chm). Do c s phn x nh sng khc nhau nn

mt phi trng mn hn v bng hn so vi mt tri

Chiu di vng si : trng thi t do vng si c dng ng cong khng gian
Kch thc Rappo vi : Rn = Rd = 1

Hnh 1: Kiu dt mt mt phi

 c tnh:

Tnh cht ca vi ph thuc c vo c tnh ca si dt v cc thng s thit k

vi nh chiu di vng si, mt v m-un vng si

Vi c thong v co gin
gin ngang ln hn gin dc, do t l bin dng b ngang ln hn nhiu so

vi bin dng b dc
V mt l thuyt, bn dc ln hn nhiu so vi bn ngang
B dy ca vi bng khong 2 ln ng knh si dt
Khi dt vi vi si khng cn bng xon c th dn n hin tng xin lch ct

vng
Vi c tnh qun mp mnh. Mp dc qun v pha mt tri, mp ngang qun v

pha mt phi ca vi
- Vi c tnh tut vng theo c hai hng thun v ngc chiu an
- Vi c b mt mn v ng nh
c im dt trn my
- My c mt h kim lp tn mt ging kim. Ch cn mt nhm kim
- Tt c cc kim u trt vng theo mt hng
- Chu trnh dt l mt ( mt qu trnh to vng to mt hng vng)
Bng so snh vi mt mt phi v hai mt phi:

Vi dt kim an ngang Mt mt phi

Vi dt kim an ngang Hai mt phi

- Ph bin nht l kiu dt trn mt mt

- Ph bin nht l kiu dt trn hai mt

phi.

phi.

- Vi mt mt phi dt trn c to thnh - vi hai mt phi dt trn, cc ct vng

t mt loi phn t cu trc duy nht

phi v tri c to ra xen k nhau theo t

ging ht nhau l vng si.

l 1:1, 2:2, 3:3. Mt vng si phi xen k

vi mt vng si tri, cc ct vng phi
dn st vo nhau, che i ct vng tri sau

chng.
- Vi dt kim an ngang mt mt phi c

- vi dt kim an ngang hai mt phi c

tnh cht c l tt, trng lng vi nh

tnh cht c l tt, trng lng vi tng

ph hp cho cc sn phm lt, qu trnh

i ln hn so vi vi mt mt phi, qu

dt n gin.

trnh dt phc tp hn.

- Tnh qun mp l nhc im ln nht

- Vi hai mt phi c u in l khng b

ca loi vi ny

qun mp.

- bn dc ln hn bn ngang, co

- co ngang ca vi hai pht phi gp

ngang ln hn co dc.

i vi mt mt phi => co gin ln nn

thng may bo c, bot ay o..

- vi mt mt phi thng xp, n hi,

- Vi thng xp, n hi, thng thong,

kh nhn nhu, thng thong,

tn vt liu hn so vi mt mt phi.

- tuy nhin chng d thay i hnh dng,

d co rt, d xin lch ct vng..

- chng t b co rt , gin ln vn c th

- c dt trn my mt ging kim.

n hi v ban u
- dt trn my 2 ging kim.

- thng c dng may qun o mc lt,

cc loi th thao, o len, hng thi

- dng may cc chi tit ca sn phm nh

trang

c, bo tay, bo thn o, may o thun

Tnh cht vi
- Hin tng ct vng b xin: trng thi t do, cc tr vng ca cc vng si
trn mt vi thng nm xin vi mt ct vng mt gc . Gc xin thng
khng i xng hai tr vng trong mt vng si. Hu qu l ct vng s khong
vung gc vi hng vng, qun o may xong s b bin dng, khng gi c
kch thc, t l mong mun ca ngi thit k.

Tnh d tut vng : tut vng l lm cho cc vng si mt s lin kt vi nhau, t

vi tho tut thnh si. Trng hp tut vng thng thy: tho tut c hng vng
bng cch cm u si ko ra, nu gia vi c si b t hay kim b mi, cc
vng si hai bn ch si t v cc vng cng ct vi vng si b t d b tut
ra.

Hin tng qun mp ca vi: trng thi t do, mt mnh vi mt mt phi

thng c mp dc qun v pha mt tri, mp ngang qun v pha mt phi.
Nguyn nhn ch yu dn ti hin tng qun mp l tnh n hi ca si

gin: di tc dng ca lc ko, vi b gin di ra. Ty theo phng tc dng

lc, gin ca vi th hin khc nhau. gin ca vi dt kim mt mt phi l
mt u im trong may mc nu nh chng n hi tt, mau tr v v tr ban u
khi b ti. gin nhiu gip cho qun o b st thn th, khi mc ngi ta c
cm gic d chu, cho php thit k sn phm vi dung sai ln, gim c s

lng kch c khc nhau ca tng loi mt hng

co: trong qu trnh dt v gia cng t vi chu nhiu lc tc dng. ng sut
d trong vi sau git gi s c tiu tr i v th hin thnh co theo c chiu
dc v chiu ngang ca vi. Do cu ti vi mt mt phi n gin nht, bin
dng ln nn co ca vi rt nhy cm vi qu trnh hon tt t di tc ng
ca nhit, m v lc ko cng. Thng thng vi c co dc l s dng v
co ngang l s dng hoc s m. co ca vi mt mt phi thng c coi l
mt trong nhng ch tiu cht lng quan trng ca vi dt kim t si x ngn

ng dng:
-Ph hp s dng cho cc trang phc m dng, thoi mi

- Ph hp s dng cho trang phc th thao:

Nh vy vi dt t x len vi kiu dt singel jersey m bo cc tnh cht trn, c

bit l:
- Nh, b mt mm mi.
- co gin cao, to cm gic thoi mi.
- Thng thong kh tt, mt m khi mt.
- Khng nhu tt.
- Bt mu p khi nhum.

CHNG II: TNH TON CC CH TIU K THUT

1/ M hnh cu trc hnh hc:
a. M hnh Dalidovist:
Vng si c dng ng cong khng gian khng c
gy khc. Trn mt vi vng si do cc cung 0-1; 2-3-4 v 56 c ni vi nhau bi hai on thng 1-2 v 4-5
Trn mt ct th hin cc cung c cong v kch
thc tng t nh nhau
Cc cung 2-3-4 v 5-6-7 u c dng na vng trn.
Nu coi cc cung kim v cung platin bng nhau th ngi ta
c th xc nh chiu di vng si theo cng thc
l= l01+l12+l234+l45+l56
l= 2l12+2l234

Do cc on l12, l234nm trong khng gian, khng phi lc no cng c th tnh gn ng

bng cch chiu chng ln mt phng vi. Nh vy qua phn tch tng trng hp c th
ca tng loi vng si chiu di ca chng s l
l= l(A, B, d)
Theo m hnh Dalidovist, tnh gn ng
L12=B; l234= (0,5A+d)
Nn:
L=1,57A+2B+ d
b. M hnh Peirce:
M hnh xut pht t hnh dng a s ca vng si c thy thc t.
M hnh gm cc on thng v cc cung ni nhau. Mi on thng l tip tuyn
chung ca hai cung, cc cung u chn mt gc tm
ln hn /2
T l thuyt phn tch ta thy ti cc im trn m
hnh 2, cong ca si phn b khng u.
L= A+2B+5,94d
c. M hnh Leaf and Glaskin:
Vng si gm cc cung hp thnh . Trong trng hp
si n hi tuyt i, trn mt vi th hin bi cc cung
(1-2) + (2-3-4) + (4+5) u c chung bn knh cong
Trn mt phng vung gc vi mt vi cng c hnh
chiu l cc cung lm thnh mt hng song song vi trc
ta , bn knh cong nh nhau
Chiu di vng si:
L= (A+2d)(0,5 + )
Tan =

2B
A

d. M hnh mt ln nht:
Trong thc t sn xut, qua thng k thc nghim ngi thy rng khi dt vi
vng si sao cho tm ca hai kim k nhau trn mt hng v tm ca cung platin hng
trn cng nm trn mt ng trn v lm thnh mt tam gic u th c cu to n nh
nht. trng thi t do, cc cung kim v cung platin trn mt hng u c xu hng dui

thng ra chim din tch ln nht v thng tip xc vi nhau, khe h gia cc cung
coi nh khng cn na.

Ta c ABC l tam gic u: AB=BC=CA=4d

Chiu di vng si:
l=(3 +2 13 )d=16,64d
2/ ng knh trung bnh ca si
ng knh si nm trong vi c xem l ng knh trung bnh ca ng
knh l thuyt f v ng knh thc t F
d=

f + F 0,241+0,148
=
=0,194 (mm)
2
2

Trong :
f =0,0357 T 1=0,0357 22,71 0,51 =0,241(mm)
F=0,0357 T =0,0357 22,71 1,32 =0,148(mm)
1

Vi

T - chun s ca si (tex)

N - chi s ca si (m/g)
- khi lng ring ca x (g/cm3)

- khi lng ring ca si (g/cm3)

Bng 1 Khi lng ring ca x v si dt

(g/cm3)

Loi si

(g/cm3)

Bng

1,52

0,75 0,85

Len

1,32

0,50 0,60

Viscose filament

1,50 1,53

0,70 0,80

Acetat

1,30 1,33

0,60 0,80

Polyamid

1,14 1,15

0,50 0,70

Polyester

1,38 1,39

0,55 0,70

Triacetat

1,28 1,33

0,60 0,80

Polyacrylonitril

1,17 1,19

0,60 0,70

Polypropylen

0,90 0,91

0,40 0,45

Elastic

1,14 1,15

0,032 0,035

Polyester textured

1,38 1,39

0,04 0,06

3/ Tnh bc vng A v chiu cao hng vng B

Bng 4: Cc thng s A v c c trng cho vi dt kim an ngang
c cu to n nh
Kiu an
Mmp
Rib ( 1+1)
Rib ( 1+1)
Hmt
Hmt

Loi si
Tt c cc loi si
Bng, hng lt
Len, hng mc ngoi
Bng, si phi hp vi filament, x ngn
Len

A(mm)
4d
4d
5d
4d
(5 6)d

c
0,865
0,865
0,7
0,5 0,6
0,4 0,5

Dn xut Mmp
Si nhn to v si tng hp
Da vo bng trn, ta c :

3,5d

A=4 d=4 0,194=0,776(mm)

c=

B
B=c A=0,865 0,776=0,671(mm)
A

4/ Tnh chiu di vng si

- Tnh theo m hnh Dalidovist
Vi mt mt phi
l=1,57 A+2 B +d =1,57 0,776+2 0,671+3.14 0,194=3,169(mm)

5/ Tnh mt vi :
n v chiu di 100mm l theo tiu chun TCVN 5794-1994
- Mt ngang:
P n=

10 100
=
=129,87 (ct vng/100mm)
A 0,776

Mt dc:
Pd =

10 100
=
=149,03 (hng vng/100mm)
B 0,671

6/ Tnh trng lng ca 1m2 vi

Theo sch Cng ngh dt kim Hunh Vn Tr (trang 64)
4

Q=10 Pn Pd l T
104 129,87 149,03 3,169 22,71
139,29 (g/m2)

0,86

7/ Tnh modun vng si:

Kiu an
Mmp
Mmp
Rib( 1+1)
Rib( 1+1)
Interlock

Loi si
Bng
Len
Bng
Len
Bng

M un vng si
21
20
21
21
23

Modun vng si l =20

Bng tng kt cc ch tiu ca mt hng
STT

Ch tiu k thut

K hiu

n v tnh

Thng s

Kiu dt

MMP

Nguyn liu si

100% len

Chi s si

Ne

ng knh si

mm

0,194

Bc vng

mm

0,776

Chiu cao hng vng

mm

0,671

Chiu di vng si

mm

3,169

Mt dc

Pd

Hng vng/100mm

129,87

Mt ngang

Pn

Ct vng/100mm

149,03

M un vng si

10

Trng lng vi

26

20
g/m2

139,29

Vi s liu tng t, tnh theo cc m hnh cn li th ta thy ch c s thay i

cc thng s chiu di vng si v trng lng vi:
- M hnh Peirce :
+ Chiu di vng si :
l= A+2 B+5,94 d=0,776+2 0,671+5,94 0,194=3,270 (mm)

+ Tnh trng lng ca 1m2 vi:

Theo sch Cng ngh dt kim Hunh Vn Tr (trang 64)
Q=104 Pn Pd l T
4

10 129,87 149,03 3,270 22,71

143,73 (g/m2)

- M hnh Leaf and Glaskin:

+ Chiu di vng si:
Tan =

2 B 2 0,671
=
=1,729
A
0,776

L= (A+2d)(0,5 + =( 0,776+2 0,194 ) ( 0,5 +1,047 )=3,047(mm)

+ Tnh trng lng ca 1m2 vi:
Theo sch Cng ngh dt kim Hunh Vn Tr (trang 64)
Q=104 Pn Pd l T
104 129,87 149,03 3,047 22,71
133,93

(g/m2)

- M hnh mt ln nht:
+ Chiu di vng si:
l=( 3 +2 13 ) d =16,64 d=16,64 0,194=3.228(mm)

+ Tnh trng lng ca 1m2 vi:

Theo sch Cng ngh dt kim Hunh Vn Tr (trang 64)
Q=104 Pn Pd l T
104 129,87 149,03 3,228 22,71

141,89

(g/m2)

Bng tng kt cc ch tiu ca mt hng

S

Ch tiu k

thut

hiu

Kiu dt

MMP

Nguyn liu

Chi s si

T
T

4
5
6
7

ng knh
si
Bc vng
Chiu cao
hng vng
Chiu di
vng si

n
v
tnh

Dalidovist

Leaf
Peirce

and
Glaskin

Mt

Th

ln nht

nghim

Thng
s thc
t

100%
len
Tex

22,71

22,71

22,71

22,71

22,71

20

mm

0,194

0,194

0,194

0,194

0,0187

0,0175

mm

0,776

0,776

0,776

0,776

0,59

0,74

mm

0,671

0,671

0,671

0,671

0,53

0,48

mm

3,169

3,270

3,047

3,228

2,53

2,6

129,87

129,87

129,87

129,87

180

208

149,03

149,03

149,03

149,03

180

206

20

20

20

20

20

20

139,29

143,73

133,93

141,89

142,91

145

Hng
8

Mt dc

Pd

vng/
100m
m
Ct

Mt
ngang

Pn

vng/
100m
m

M un

vng si

Trng lng

vi

g/m2

CHNG III: LA CHN THIT B

1. Dt kim:
Da vo chi s si, la chn thit b c cp my E = 20 (Bng 10.4 trang 258, sch
Cicular Kinitting)
Chn my dt kim an trn Pai Lung KF3B-LP
ng knh my
Cp my
S t to vng
Tc my ti a
Kch thc my (DxRxC)

30
14-28G
72- 96
30 vng/pht
4,060m x 3,434m x 1,849m

1/ Tnh nng sut my:

-

Sn lng yu cu:
300 tn/ thng.

Thi gian lm vic: 8

gi/ca, 3 ca/ngy, 30
ngy/thng.

Nng sut lm vic thc t:

L=

G 1000 416,67 1000

m
=
=2301,07( )
BQ
1,3 139,29
h

G=

300 1000
kg
=416,67 ( )
8 3 30
h

G=

L B Q
1000

Trong :

L: nng sut my (m/h)

G: nng sut my (kg/h)
Q: trng lng vi (g)
B: kh vi
B=

D 3,14 E 30 ' ' 3,14 20

=
=1,3(m)
Pn 100
14,90 100

(D: ng knh my (inch)

E: cp my (s kim/inch)
Pn: mt ngang ca vi (s ct vng/cm))
Nng sut l thuyt trn mt my:
Chn vn tc my: 22 vng/pht
22

Hiu sut chy my: 30 100 =73,33

-Nng sut my theo m/h:
L=

S n 60 p 96 22 60 0,7333
=
=71,53
c P d 100
1 12,99 100

(m/h/my)

-Nng sut my theo kg/h:

G =

L B v Q 71,53 1,3 139.29

=
=12,95
1000
1000

Trong :
S: s t to vng
n: tc ca my

(kg/h/my)

 : hiu sut ca my
c : s t to vng cn thit dt c mt hng vng.

Nng sut thc t trn mt my:

Chn:
H s lm vic: Klv = 0,95
H s c ch: Kci = 0,85
H s s dng: K sd =K lv K ci =0,95 0,85=0,8075
-Nng sut my theo m/h:
Ltt = Llt x Ksd = 71,53 x 0,8075 = 57,76 (m/h)
-Nng sut my theo kg/h:
Gtt = Glt x Ksd = 12,95 x 0,8075 = 10,46 (kg/h)
S my cn s dng:
G

416,67

N = Gtt = 10,46 =39,83 my

Chn 40 my
Tnh ton li nng sut:
-Nng sut thc t ca mt my theo kg/h:
Gtt =

G 416,67
=
=10,42
N
40

(kg/h)

-Nng sut thc t ca mt my theo m/h:

L=

G 1000 10,42 1000

=
=57,54
B Q
1,3 139,29

-Nng sut l thuyt ca mt my theo m/h:

(m/h)

L=

Ltt
57,54
=
=71,26
K sd 0,8075

(m/h)

-Nng sut l thuyt ca mt my theo kg/h:

G =

Gtt 10,42
=
=12,90
K sd 0,8075

(kg/h)

-Tc chy my:

n=

c Pd L 100 112,99 71,26 100

=
=21,92 (vng/pht)
s 60
96 60 0,7333

-Hiu sut chy my:

=

21,92
100 =73,07
03

2.Tnh lng nguyn liu phi s dng:

-Tnh lng si cn mua:
Vi phn trm lng si tiu hao l 0,5%. Th lng si cn s dng trong mt thng
sn xut ra 300 tn vi/ thng l:
q=( 1+0,005 ) 300000=301500 (kg)

Bp si s dng c trng lng 2kg. Vy s bp si x cn s dng l:

x=

301500
=150750(bp)
2

-S kim nh my cn mua:
Nh my lp t 25 my dt kim trnmt ging kim, ng knh 30 inch, cp kim E20
S=40 1 30 20=75398 (kim)

Xc sut gy kim trong qu trnh dt l 3%:

Tng s kim nh my cn mua l:

S=75398 ( 1+3 )=77660(kim)

2/ Hon tt:
a. Tin x l:
- Kim tra sa li dt:
+ Vic kim tra khng phi l mt qu trnh hon tt nhng vi thng c kim
tra xem xt mi giai on trong cc qu trnh ca cng on hon tt.
+ Sau cng on dt : Vi mc c kim tra cc l thng, vt bn, li dt v li
si, nh du nhng khuyt tt v sa cha li nh mong mun. Nhng vt bn nh c
th loi b bng cc tc nhn lm sch (cc b). Mt s im gt c th c y v mt
tri ca vi.
+ Kim tra trc cng on x l cui cng (nh hnh hi p lc) sa cha
trc. Cc tiu ch cn kim tra bao gm ngoi quan v cc ch tiu k thut khc nh
kh rng, xin canh v mt s li mi c th b pht sinh.
+ Qu trnh kim tra c thc hin bng mt trn my kim tra vi, thit b c b
mt dc m (cho nh sng i qua), vi c ko qua trn b mt dc mt cch t t.
Vi c chiu sng t c 2 pha c th nhn ra cc li
- My x kh:
- Do vi dt trn my dt kim trn nn cn phi s dng phi x kh to ra kh vi
phng:

- My t lng:
- Mc ch: lm sch b mt vi, si nhm t c b mt khng c u x nh
ra. Dng nhit t sch u x nh trn vi, si. B mt sch th hin qua cc tnh cht
nh:
- Bc l r kt cu dt trn b mt.
- Gim bt bi trong qu trnh sn xut v s dng tip sau.
- To thun li cho thuc nhum c hp ph ng u ln mt vi.
- B mt vi nhum n nh hn nh gim tn x nh sng.
- Gim x lng do ma st, trnh v nt in do cc u x b mt i trong qu
trnh git v s dng.
- H tr hon tt chng vn cc b mt.

+ Vi vi dt t si 100% len lng cu rt nhy cm vi nhit ca ngn la

t, nu nhit qu cao s lm tn thng n x len trong cu trc ca vi v thng lm
mt i tnh mm mi. t theo kiu trc din cho hiu qu cao v t tn thng n x
len trong cu trc ca vi, cc u x c t sch hn, v vy t trc din c la
chn,
+ Tc vi 60 m/pht
+ Dp la bng hi bo ha c phun trc tip trn mt vi
- My git:
+ Mc ch ca cng on git l loi b cc tp cht du v cc tp cht khc
gy nn trong qu trnh ko si v dt, tro do t lng. Vic git vi c thnh phn len
lun phi c tin hnh thn trng (v thnh phn len rt d b tn thng). Mc git
trc ta thng cn c lng m cn d li trn len, mc cn li sau git ph hp nht l
0,5 0,8%. Nu lng cn li ln hn thng nh hng n bn mu ma st ca vi
nhum. kh m (cc loi du khong) tt nht l dng dung mi hu c, v cc cht
kim ch c tc dng loi c cc loi du c kh nng nh ha trong n, ngc li loi
du khong khng nh ha c th tc dng ca kim khng c gi tr loi b c
chng. Nh trn ni khng phi l loi b ht t l du trong len. Thc t chng minh
rng t l cn li ny khng c php di 0,2% v nu khng vi s b kh v b mt
cng rp.
- My git vi dng phng:
+ Cht git (Ultravol EL) 0,5 g/l
+ Nhit git: 40oC
+ Tc vi: 60 m/ph
+ Thi gian git: 60 pht
+ Lc p: 2,0 bar
+ X trn 10 pht v tho kit
Git nng 40oC/ 10 pht
+ Git lnh 05 pht
- My sy:
+ Mc ch: lm cho vt liu dt gim bt lng nc, lng m m n mang
theo n mt yu cu nht nh. Thng thng sy l dng nhit nng cho nn sy cng
thng c ngh l qu trnh nhit. Kh nng thc hin sy b ly nhit thng qua s bay

hi ca nc v un nng ca nc nn khi ri khi b mt vi c nhit thp hn. S

khc bit nhit ca dng kh vo v dng kh ra ty thuc trc tip vo lng nc
bc hi, s thay i nhit v hm m c trong vt liu - hiu sut sy.
trnh len b vng, len t khi c sy trn 1500C. Vi thng c sy nhit
khong 1100C m bo len khng b ph hy vi tc trung bnh 25 m/pht v ph
thuc vo thi gian sy, chiu di khoang sy.
+ My sy:
- Thng s quan trng:
+ Nhit : 1100C
+ Vn tc: 25m/ph
- My Crabbing:
+ Crabbing l cng ngh tin x l vi len vi hai chc nng: n nh cu trc
(nh hnh) v lm sch ha hc vi (nu). Nu vi len nhm lm sch cc loi m, sp
len, du my cn trn vi.
+ Nguyn tc ng dng cng ngh ny l x l len trong hi m hoc nc si
trng thi phng ri sau lm mt (v lm kh) trng thi phng. khi xng hi trng
thi phng, cc mi lin kt hydro, lin kt mui b t thay vo l nc chim ch.
Khi lm mt, cc mi lin hydro v lin kt mui gia cc mch keratin c ti to
nhng v tr cn bng mi. lm cho vi phng mt v n nh kch thc.
+ C th ni crabbing l qu trnh chng hp len trong nc nng. S nh hnh
ti u t c trong qu trnh chng hp t khi hng c th chu c qu trnh hon
tt tip theo v sc cng hoc li pht sinh t qu trnh trc (v d to tuyt khi nhum)
c loi b mt cch c kim sot.
+ Qu trnh chun b vi dt cha nhum, nh hnh vi nhn qu mc v to n
trong nhum tip theo, loi b du v cc cht ph da. Trong trng hp vi nhum,
qu trnh ny lm cho vi mt v lm u nhng vt khc mu sau nhum (dng dy).
+ Mc nh hnh bn cng c th ci thin tng bng cch b sung cht nh hnh
vo b ngm t. Mt s sn phm trn c s l cht kh c sn trn th trng. V d
nh: Natri monoethanolamin sulfit (1-3% trng lng vi), Siroset MS, Siroset FW
(BOHME), Ang-Ra 335 v Ang-Ra 338 (Rotta)
- Thit b: my Conti Crabbing k hiu 2C- M/F91
- Thng s:

+ Dung tch ca thng cha nc: 8000 lt

+ Dung tch ca ct nc u vo v u ra: 350 lt
+ p sut ti a ca nc: 2 bar
+ p sut ti a ca hi: 6 bar
+ Tc ti a trong my: 35 m/pht
+ Tc chuyn ng ca vi trong my: 12 m/pht
+ Nhit x l: 1100C
+ Thi gian vi c x l: khong 30 giy.
- My cn mn:
+ Cn mn cng c gi l qu trnh lm y. Trong qu trnh cn mn, u x di
chuyn ra pha ngoi thn si v tr nn b ri trong cu trc vi. X len cha x l c
che ph bng cc vy xp chng ln nhau theo cch tt c cc vy cha ra theo cng mt
hng v iu ny lm cho vic to ri trong cu trc vi tr nn d dng khi cc x di
chuyn. Qu trnh to n len to cho vi dy, gim co hi phc y l im c trng
ca vi len.
+ Vi len c cn mn v nhng l do sau:
- Tng bn ca vi
- Thu c nhng kt qu trong vic hon tt vi kh nng che ph cao m
cu trc dt ca vi c che mt phn hoc hon ton.
- Gim s thm kh
- Tng khi lng trn mt n v din tch
- Nh mt qu trnh x l s b co lng vi len
+ Qu trnh cn mn vi len t c bng chuyn ng t qung, nn v p vi
khng lin tc theo nhiu cch khc nhau. Tc to n ty thuc vo tc ng c kh
ca thit b, cc c tnh c hc ca x v vi nh ng knh x, sn ca si v cu
trc dt. Hu ht cc thit b cn mn hin i u kt hp qu trnh git v to n.
+ Thng thng, thun li cho qu trnh cn mn ngi ta thng s dng x
phng v cht git trong dung dch cn. iu ny c ch nh nhm tc ng nh cht
bi trn v trong mt s trng hp trnh nhng np gp v cc vt sc si ngang
trong qu trnh x l t nh Romapon 309 (Rotta).
Cc vt chy my c th xy ra khi vi t dng dy chu tc ng c hc (v d trong
qu trnh git v to n). Nhng vt ny c to ra do qu trnh to n ti nhng im g

ca np gp khi vi dng dy. Vi s c nhng vt chy my di, v vy nn nh hnh

bn dng m kh trc khi git hoc cn.
- My s dng: Turbomat 4 chc nng (MAT) dng cn trc quay

+ Vi c tun hon nh mt dy v tn. Sau khi c ko qua mt ming vi

hay hng, n i qua gia cc trc ln cng v sau c nn dng xp np trong mt
hp to n thon dn. Cn lun theo di kim tra cc thng s nhit , pH, kiu cht tr
cn, dung t, thi gian x l v cc thng s c hc ca my.
+ Cc thng s my gm: rng ming hay hng, p sut trc ln v thng s
hp cn. Tc to n theo chiu ngang c tng tng i so vi hng dc bng
cch ng ming vi, tng p sut trn trc ln v gim s nn p vi trong hp cn.
Chy cng lc 2 dy vi qua my cng s tng tc tng i ca co ngang. Cn theo
hng si dc c th tng tc so vi si ngang bng cch tng mc nn p vi trong
bung cn. B trc i c th tng tc chu trnh cn v l l tng cho cn nng vi
qun o d biliard hay vi melton. Cc my cn mn c hn c cc trc ln g, nhng
nhiu my hin i c cc trc bc b mt bng cht do tng hp. iu quan trng l
cc trc kp cht vi v khng trt, nu khng s lm tn thng vi.

b. Nhum:
c. Hon tt:
- My h hon tt:
+ Trng hp mong mun vi len c cm gic s tay tt v mm mi hn, c
th dng cc loi h mm ci thin c tnh ngoi quan cho vi nh c tnh lng mn,
bng, chng nhu, co rt dt kh, chng thm chng mc, chng tnh in.... Cc loi h
c ngun gc khc nhau cho cc kt qu khc nhau.
+ Thng s cng ngh h cho vi len:
- H mm (Ultratex FW) 8 g/l
- CH3COOH 1,0 ml/l
- Lc p 2,0 Bar (mc p 70%)
- Nhit sy 140oC
- Tc vi 20 m/pht
- Tc gi sy va phi (mc thp)
- m bo chnh canh si khng b xin cho hay cong vng.
- Lm ngui vi bng qut khng kh mt trc khi c xp ln xe.
+ Qu trnh x l h mm vi len trn mu ln c thc hin trn my stenter vi
nhit nh hnh thp. Do mun t c ng u cao th qu trnh h mm ln vi
phi c tin hnh ngm p h trn vi qua sy kh. Vi sau khi ngm p h mm
c x l sy kh nhit ph hp cho loi h v ph hp vi tnh cht ca nguyn
liu vi. C nh vy th vi mi t c cc ch tiu v co cng nh cc yu cu v
ngoi quan ca vi.
+ My stenter c cu to ging nh my nh hnh nhng n khc my nh hnh
ch my hon tt c thm mng cha dung dch h vi v n khng c nhim v nh
hnh m n ch cng vi v gia nhit cho cc cht h bm ln mnh vi. Ngoi ra nhit
my hon tt thp hn my nh hnh.
- My hp (xng hi nh hnh)
+ Qu trnh ny gip ci thin cm gic chm tay nh tc ng ca m v iu
chnh cu trc, thit lp ng bng lc p, lm mu sc ti sng, to nn s mm mi,
sang trng, mn mng trn vi, n nh kch thc v to dng cui cng cho vi.
+ Trong qu trnh nh hnh hi p lc, vi len c cun cng vi vi bc km
trn mt thng tr c khoan l v c x l trong ni hp cng vi hi nc di p
sut ln hn p sut kh quyn, c rt nhiu kiu thit k khc nhau nhng cc b phn
c bn nht u bao gm:

1. B phn chun b vi, vi bc v t cun ra sau khi nh hnh.

2. H thng dch chuyn a cun vi vo v ra khi ni hp.
3. Ni hp vi cc vch c t nng, bung hp c ni vi bm ht
chn khng.
4. B phn lm mt vi sau khi x l.
+ Trong qu trnh nh hnh hi p lc, vi len c hm m trong khong 5 n
15%, c nm xen k vi mt vi bc km v a vo thng p lc.
+ Khng kh trong ni hp v trong cun vi c ht ht ra v thay vo l
hi nc s c thm vo cc lp ca cun vi len v vi bc. C h thng bm chn
khng ht khng kh ra khi ni hp trc khi a hi nc vo.
+ Cng vic ny l bt buc m bo nhit bn trong ni hp t c ti
gi tr cn thit. ( mc p sut 200 kPa, vi 20% khng kh trong hi nc bo ha
nhit c th gim i 7oC). Vic rt ht khng kh ra khi len trnh c hin tng
oxy trong khng kh c th phn ng vi len gy vng v gim tc dng nh hnh bn.
Hn na mt s mu nhum khng bn vng khi b oxy ha v mu nhum s b nh
hng t nhiu.
+ Sau khi ht sch khng kh, vi c gia nhit bng hi bo ha, hm m ca
vi c th tng ti cc i khong 6-8%, hi nc cp nhanh cho n mc p sut cn
thit v duy tr mc trong mt thi gian, thng l di 5 pht, ph thuc vo kch
thc v xp ca cun vi v vo p sut hi bo ha.
+ Hi nc a vo cun vi c tun hon t ngoi vo trong v t trong ra
ngoi. Sau x p sut bng cch m van thng hi ca ni hp. Cun vi c lm
ngui trc khi t ra bng cch ht khng kh ngui bn ngoi vo trong bung hp hoc
trong khi t vi s c lm ngui bng khng kh xung quanh. Vi bc c chy qua
trc sy c t nng bng hi trc lm kh u trc khi n c cun li,
chun b cho ln sau.
+ Vi bc c nhiu loi khc nhau v thnh phn, dy, mt si ca vi.
Trc y loi vi bc ph bin nht l dng vi bng dt thoi c trng lng nng. Hin
nay loi ph bin l dng vi c dt t si tng hp dc li filament bc bng bn
ngoi. C hai loi vi bc chnh c dng to ra cc hiu ng b mt khc nhau trn
vi x l: Vi bc sa tanh trn v t b nn to ra b mt bng lng cho vi len.
+ Thng s cng ngh x l nh sau:
+ Vi bc km c dt t si PET/CO, kiu dt satin.

+ Ht chn khng: 60 giy

+ Nhit nh hnh: hi bo ha nhit 120oC
+ Vn tc chy my: 15m/ph
+ Thi gian: 4,5 pht
+ X p v h nhit ti 80oC
- Kim tra ng gi:
+ Cht lng ngoi quan ca vi p, cho cm gic s tay d ch.
+ Mu sc ca vi trong v ngoi ca c l vi cng nh ca vi trc v sau khi
x l nh hnh hi p lc c s sai khc khng ng k.
+ Cc thng s k thut ca vi: kh rng, mt , khi lng u khng c sai
khc nhiu v ph hp vi thit k.
+ Cc dng li dt trn vi u c sa cha hon ton theo phng php th
cng t tiu chun vi loi A. Khng gy nn cc dng li trong qu trnh
hon tt.