pi" WoObee | 2 U 2 | |N TEI sl = ‘A Bit Rack. With the angled bit rack, you can quickly see and pick ut the one you're looking for. Tiere mer table is such a shop workhorse. For starters, there's the simple, rege contro. This means you wot spend Il of Une building it. Then there’s the large tp an ace tat ae cape of handling just about any project. Finally, there’s even a rack for Keen yours wien ech ‘Sturdy Construction - You'll notice in the drawing below that the router ale stares some rocks @ ‘construction features with the work: Dench smal up oa eter bx snore yur ke apa of braces. This assembly is then sand- whe tween end patel SIDE DETAIL “ ry 52 ete msscx/ | [earl |< sy» ShopNotes No, 78SHOP PROJECT ‘Case - The center box consists of a shelf and two sides, A brace is screwed to the sides of the box near the top. The brace serves two pur poses. First, it prevents the router table from racking. Second, the brace supports the table top and ‘keeps it from sagging, as shown in the ‘side detail on the opposite page. A second brace is located just under the box at the back of the table. I's screwed to two legs that am serve to beef up the end panels that CUTTING DIAGRAM fee. are added later. At the front of the (48"%98"- 54" PLYWOOD) og ASE er table, another pair of legs are added. But instead of a brace, | screwed an ‘The first detail is a slot near each ‘Simple Fence ~The final part of angled bit rack between them, as end of the table (drawing below). the router table isthe fence (drawing shown in the detail on the bottom They're used to adjust the fence and below). This isn't your typical L- ‘Tight of the opposite page. Not only secure it to the table, shaped fence. It’s a solid beam built does it help strengthen the table, but ‘The other detail tonoteis the hole up from four layers of plywood. It's ‘itkeeps router bits close at hand. for a router insert plate. (You'll want attached to the table with a pair of ‘Now, the end panels can be cut, _ to size the opening to fit your insert ratchet knobs, washers, carriage glued, and screwed to the center plate.) The hole is cut in two steps. bolts, and pinch blocks. To prevent assembly. Like the workbench, a First, cut a rough opening for the _ the fence from binding, I cut a short cutout at the bottom of the end router to drop into that’s slightly slot in one end of the fence base. panels forms the feet that give the smaller than the size of the plate. This gives the fence a little wiggle. router table a firm stance. Second, rout a rabbet around the At the top of the fence, I added @ Me Big Top - With the base edge ofthe hole thats sized to hold some Track for attaching stop " complete, I turned to the top where _ the insert plate flush with the top of blocks, bit guards, and feather- all the work takes place. Basically, the table. The top can then be boards, like you see in the main it’s just a large panel thats cut to attached to the base with metal photo. You can make your own ‘shape. But there are a couple impor- corner braces (drawing below and accessories or find some at tant details I want to mention. side detail on the opposite page). www.ShopNotes.com. Ee Fence “ened? Sten TRACK LAYER ASS + (20) #8 1%" Fh Woodscrews (A) Comer Braces wiScrews () Router Plate (2) Ratchet Knobs 2) Pe" Washers #2) ho" x Be" Carriage Boles *() 32" rack (wlecrews) aa ~— BLOCK oe bee a sith & e ei Sian -www.ShopNotes.com 29HPF here just never seems to be enough surfaces close by to set down tools, store parts, or acces- sories. That's where this multitool stand comes in. It has a large work area on top that’s big enough for most benchtop tools, ike the planer you see in the photo. The stand also has an open shelf below the top to hold parts at the ready. Another great feature is a drawer at the bottom that holds sup- plies and accessories right where you need them. Finally, a set of heavy-duty casters means the cart can go anywhere without getting Jnung up on chips or extension cords. Building the Cart ~The core of 7 S — the stand consists of two sides sup- i This rolling Sorte on he Godicerl ya pale Of ee sits Abockpunlcreesaepc eee es hat will house a drawer, as shown in REE ok detal'b? The upper shelfalso serves eee as the second worksurface. ‘The top of the stand is braced by give you a worksurlace as large as A Basic Drawer ~ Tadded a top supports. This forms a sturdy possible. Its attached with metal cor- drawer to the bottom ofthe stand to Core that can stand up to anything. ners braces (detail ‘a hold frequently needed items. ince ‘To this core, I The base serves to support the its fully enclosed, the raver keeps @ | Hardware added a top and stand and provide a place to attach things pretty clean and dust free. bottom panel. The the castes. I's simply glued and The drawer is built from the same alguajinoitr i Nueaom screwed tothe lower shel 2A! plywood asthe res of the stand + (2) Comer Braces w/Berewe and uses simple rabbet joinery. I’s +) Sash Pull n/serews sized to fit the opening below the + (4). B* Lacking Castors w/Screme Wr _ tell To keep the drawer operating a ees | a = smoothly, rubbed some wax on the bottom ofthe drawer sides Westhely (~ SIDE VIEW a. (ior) i< pa | comeeseace |) x SeeBaes ——— CUTTING DIAGRAM = BASE 40" 96" FETHOOD Le (eee) SIDE VIEW SSEEEGEE we tardsonrd ONTIBA ow i srLocnna, (eortom) RS 2 deinen Botta ee ae ee 30 ShopNotes No. 78