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-For best drying results, clean the lint filter before each load.
-When drying only one or two items, toss in a few items
of varying size to promote good tumbling action and
improve drying results. Dryers with an Auto-Dry cycle will
not dry properly with a very small load in the tumbler.
-A drying rack accessory sits stationary on the front and
rear bulkheads to speed the drying process of items like:
caps, sneakers, sweaters, stuffed toys and pillows. Ask
your dealer for details.
-Raising the dryer 6-12 inches with a storage drawer
below puts the door opening near level with the washer
opening and reduces bending.
-Never use white plastic exhaust duct on any dryer!! The
stuff is not only flammable, but it increases drying time
tremendously! Do not use the foil-looking stuff, either!
Use only flexible metal duct or rigid duct.

See our page on Dryer Venting.

Improper venting or a clogged vent will give the following

results:
1. Long drying times
2. Clothes are hot at end of cycle...bad for Perma-

Press items
3. Dryer is noisier than usual
4. Clothes still hot and damp after cycle ends
5. Automatic sensors fail to shut off
6. Premature failure of heating element, motor or

bearings
-If your vent runs vertically, such as thru a wall to the
roof, expect extended drying times (not to mention
premature failure of the motor, drum rollers and heater).
Jump to Troubleshooting

Why don't clothes dryers have EnergyGuide

labels on them?
Because the efficiency of comparable clothes dryer
models is more or less the same, EnergyGuide labels
are not required. However, you may want to compare the
power consumption for the different models you are
considering.

On the average, how much more will it cost

to use an electric clothes dryer over a gas
dryer?
Generally speaking, gas dryers are less expensive to
operate than electric dryers. The cost of drying a typical
load of laundry in an electric dryer is 30-40 cents
compared to 15-20 cents in a gas dryer. You may visit a
local appliance store and check the operating costs of
the model you are considering and find out the operating

costs for both gas and electricity.

Is it OK to vent a clothes dryer into a

basement?
No. It is not recommended to vent dryers to an indoor
space. The combination of moisture and heat can
produce harmful mold, damage to walls and ceilings, and
is generally unhealthy. Indoor vent kits should only be
considered as a last resort, and only used in a wellventilated area.

Is there a code on dryer vent lines, how

long, how many bends?
The International Mechanical Code article 504.6
stipulates the requirements for Domestic clothes dryer
ducts. In brief, the maximum length of duct permitted is
25 ft. This maximum length should be reduced by 2.5 ft
for each 45-degree bend and 5 ft. for each 90-degree
bend. The duct should be a minimum nominal size of 4
inches in diameter and shall have a smooth interior
finish.

Why isn't my dryer drying my clothes?

The dryer vent may be blocked, lint screen may be fully
covered, or the heating element is malfunctioning.
Review my tips on dryer venting to be sure you unit
complies. If your dryer vent is blocked, it is a fire hazard
and it would be better for you not to run the dryer for an
extended period.

Should I remove the back of the dryer and

vacuum around the drum?
Not necessary, unless required by the manufacturer or
you have a serious concern on the drying time. However,
you need to keep the lint-catcher/filter clean. A clogged
lint-catcher/filter will restrict air flow and reduce dryer
performance. Clean the dryer lint-catcher/filter after each
load.

I have heard that it is important to clean a

dryer vent to prevent a fire from starting. Is
there a tool and instructions for cleaning a
dryer vent?

Yes, such a tool is available here on this website. It is a

4" Nylon brush attached to a flexible rod, which will
accommodate most normal duct runs, whether they are
straight or at angles. These are perfect for any round
vent which runs vertically, since the handle end contains
a grommet which allows it to be pulled thru the longest
runs. A one-time purchase can save you a fortune on
professional cleaning services, at the same time
protecting your family and property from accidental
fire!
For more info on this practical tool, Click here

For common repair problems, check the

following tips:
My dryer won't run at all!
My dryer won't heat
My dryer takes too long to dry
My dryer gets too hot
How to change a Dryer belt
GE Dryer element replacement
Maytag Dryer breakdown pics
Installing a dryer cord
Tune up that Kenmore or Whirlpool Dryer...cheap!
Tune up a Frigidaire or Westinghouse Dryer
Protect your beautiful floor when moving the dryer
Neat things you can do with Bounce!
Test your heating element, thermostats and voltage with our
inexpensive multi-meter.

Eliminates all doubt! Click here for details.

The #1 problem with dryers is a restricted vent. Save $$$ and
maintain it yourself! CLICK HERE!

Need a Dryer Repair Manual?

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The Virtual Repairman's Tips for

Dryer Venting

Clothes dryer venting recommendations

A typical 12-pound load of laundry weighs about 20 pounds when

it emerges from the washer, meaning that a dryer has to dispose
of about a gallon of water with every load. Because of the
moisture, exhausting the dryer to the outside is recommended
since indoor exhausting can cause mildew and other problems.
There are several types of ducting materials available. They are
listed below in order of preference:
1. Rigid metal (aluminum or galvanized steel) - preferred
2. Flexible metal (shown)- acceptable

3. Flexible thin foil- unacceptable

4. Flexible plastic - unacceptable

Here's what thin foil duct can do:

(It's not really foil, either, but a form of plastic with a shiny
finish)

Facts To Consider
Underwriters Laboratories standards 560 and 2158 for
clothes dryers require that all dryers listed must specify
all metal dryer venting unless otherwise tested. A UL
181 label does not apply to dryer venting. Underwriters
Laboratories Inc., an independent testing agency that helps
set national safety standards, requires that dryer
manufacturers
"include explicit instructions
specifying that only rigid or
flexible metal duct should be used
for exhausting, unless the
appliance has been investigated
for use with nonmetallic duct."
Maytag and other major dryer manufacturers recommend
against the use of plastic flexible duct.
Although plastic flexible duct (cheap and easy to install)

might seem like just the thing for exhausting a dryer, it isn't.
This type of exhaust duct, which resembles a plasticcovered slinky toy, is not recommended for several reasons.

And as if that weren't reason enough...

The Consumer Products Safety Commission
estimates there are 24,000 clothes dryer fires
each year in the United States, amounting to
$96,000,000 in estimated property damage. Lack
of maintenance is the leading cause of dryer
fires, and LINT is the leading material to ignite.
These fires can be caused by failure of
mechanical and/or electrical parts within the
dryer itself, improper materials being put into the
dryer, and insufficient airflow as a result of
improper installation.

Recommendations

Read and follow the manufacturer's installation

instructions.
If at all possible, use 4-inch diameter rigid aluminum or
rigid galvanized steel duct. Do not use smaller duct. If
flexible metal duct must be used, use the type with a
stiff sheet metal wall.
Do not use flexible duct with a thin foil wall. Never
use plastic flexible duct.
Do not exhaust the dryer into any wall, ceiling, crawl
space or a concealed space of a building, gas vent or
any other common duct or chimney.
Keep exhaust duct as straight and short as possible.
Exhaust systems longer than the manufacturer's
recommendations can extend drying times, affect
appliance operation and may collect lint. These
recommendations may vary somewhat for different
brands and should be referenced when installing the
dryer.
The exhaust hood on the outside of the house should
have a swing out damper to prevent backdrafts and
entry of wildlife.

Never use an exhaust hood with a magnetic damper.

The hood should have at least 12 inches of clearance
between the bottom of the hood and the ground or
other obstruction. The hood opening should point
down.

Never install a screen over the exhaust outlet

Builders & Contractors Note- Do your clients a favor and do NOT

install the laundry room in the middle of a structure. This will require special
venting considerations for the dryer & usually results in poor dryer
performance due to vertical runs. Try and plan the laundry room to be on an
exterior wall if possible. New dryers will only carry the air & lint for about 18
feet, not including elbows and bends. If your floor plan does not provide

for external-wall venting, consider installing an eave-vent system. A

typical installation can be seen here.

Homeowners Note- You can remediate a roof-top vent run & cut
several feet off of your exhaust run by installing a simple Eave Vent for your
dryer. It won't have to run nearly as far, plus the exhausted lint will be
directed away from the house.

Just as a point of interest, a customer recently sent the following:

" As you suspected, clogged venting turned out to be the
problem after all-- not in the 8 feet of aluminum exhaust piping
from the dryer to the ceiling, nor at the elbow, nor in the first 5
feet of the conduit in the plenum that my shop vac hose could
reach, but rather in the balance of the 28 feet total carry to the
external wall vent.
The duct cleaning guys ran rotobrush brush agitator powered by
en electric drill as far as they could reach (23 feet). The drill rig
clogged and shut down twice. Both times they retrieved the
apparatus, they pulled out large 3-4 liter clumps of lint. Then,
one of the men took the giant hose attached to their huge HEPA
filtered collection device and pressed the end on the ceiling,
surrounding the exposed portion of the elbow. After about 10
seconds of suction almost nothing appeared in the clear tube.
The guy said, "I guess we got it all," when suddenly a series of
really huge lint clumps -- equivalent in volume to about two
sweatpant/sweat shirts sets, we found out later -- came
whooshing down the pipe. Several of these large clumps were
quite heavy from dampness.
The operator held the end of his flexible tubing flush to the
ceiling for about two more minutes, retrieving several more
"minor" clumps of lint the size of two-liter soda bottles, before
the suction ceased producing any more material. Now the
AutoDry sensor performs to spec, and a set of towels dries in 45
minutes, while normal laundry loads take considerably less time.

I suppose we have also eliminated a potential fire hazard from

our home.
I'll probably have the duct cleaning guys back in a few years,
providing their apparatus extends the entire 28 feet. Some stuff
may remain at the end where their rotobrush couldn't reach,
although I now see steam pouring forth from the external wall
vent when the dryer is in operation.
Without your advice, I doubt I would have concluded that the
clog might be in the ceiling conduit, but thanks to you I had
eliminated all other plausible avenues. Thanks again and best
regards",

Sam Bays

We carry the safest venting equipment for your dryer.

Save utility money and avoid dryer failure with your very own vent cleaning tool!

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Dryer Vent Cleaning Equipment

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Keep your clothes dryer trouble-free with these products!

10 Foot Dryer Vent Brush

This is a practical tool which can help you maintain your dryer vent efficiently. It can save you lots of time and expense from hiring an outside contractor to do this necessary
chore, at the same time protecting your dryer and property from the possibility of fire due to a blocked vent. Routine use of this brush will also improve the efficiency of your
dryer and reduce drying times tremendously!
(Note: Severely clogged vents may require a professional cleaning once, then use this tool to maintain regularly!)

Why is our brush better than the "other guys"? Steel, not plastic!
Other brands which feature a gray plastic rod will not hold up to rigorous use as well as this product. The
tool has a durable Nylon 4" hard-bristle brush mounted on a 10 foot steel-coil rod with a sturdy handle at
the far end for the best grip, which makes cleaning vertical vent runs a snap!
Yes, we've seen (and tested) some of the other products offered on the Web, and found this to be
superior. Think of this as the brush with a 10 foot handle!
This tool can be used to clean longer runs also:
* Tips for using & extending the brush's reach
Click for larger image

Your price- $21.95

Lint Catching Brush-

30" Long!

What a breeze this brush will make out of cleaning the lint trap on your dryer! This handy lint trap brush will reach way down into the
deepest, darkest dryer parts. Whether your lint screen is on top or in the door, this brush will get there. (Perfect for cleaning the
refrigerator condenser, too!!)

Lint Catching Brush - $13.95

Buy them both and save $3.00!!

Only $32.90 for the pair!!

Set of Both Brushes for $32.90

Don't miss our Dryer Venting Accessories page!

Click here for details.

Special of the monthThe King of Cup Washing Brushes!

Click here

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My Dryer won't RUN!

Here are the most common reasons:

Although all brands are different in design, the basic

concept is the same. When a dryer won't run, there are
several things to consider:

Is the circuit breaker thrown? Can you read 240 volts

at the wall plug? (120 volts if gas)

Are the wires at the power cord burned?

Have you checked the thermal fuse? (see below)

Can you read continuity thru the door switch?

Check for a belt switch near the motor....this will
cause the dryer not to run if open.

Thermal fuse:

Need a good meter to check all of this?

Click here for more info!

As you can see, there are many things that can

cause the same problem. Be sure to eliminate
each one before assuming one particular part is
bad. The following link will show you the
components of a typical electric dryer.

My dryer takes too long to dry

Main page

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My Dryer won't HEAT!

Here are the most common reasons:

Although all brands are different in design, the

basic concept is the same. When a dryer won't
heat, there are several things to consider:

Is the circuit breaker thrown? Can you

read 240 volts at the wall plug with your
voltmeter? (120 volts if gas)
Are the wires at the power cord burned?
Have you checked the thermal fuse with
your OHM meter?
Can you read 120 volts at the gas ignitor?
(If so equipped?)?
With your OHM meter, check the electric
heating element for continuity.

Need a good meter to check all of this?

Click here for more info!

As you can see, there are several things that can cause the
same problem. Be sure to eliminate each one before
assuming one particular part is bad. The following link will
show you the components of a typical electric dryer.

Also see:
My dryer takes too long to dry

Main page

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Appliance advice

Featured Dilemma:

Dear Repairman
My dryer has begun taking longer and longer to dry the clothes. It first started on the Automatic cycles, but now
even the timed cycle takes 2 hours to dry. Please help!!
Sincerely,
Bonnie P.
Florsheim, CA.

Hi Bonnie;
Dryers react to a restricted vent by cycling off the heat. This often controls the advancement of the timer in most automatic
dry cycles. Try removing the vent hose entirely from the dryer, then run a load to check for improvement. Check my page
on dryer venting to see if your vent falls into the proper category. You might not be aware that dryers were never intended
to be vented vertically, such as to the roof or 2nd floor. This kind of vent system always causes problems with dryers
unless it is meticulously cleaned out. A dryer vent should never exceed 18 feet without the aid of a helper blower installed
in the duct.

Good luck!
The Virtual Repairman

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How to install a Dryer belt.

This pertains to Whirlpool, Kenmore, Roper and Kitchen-Aid dryers:

by The Virtual Repairman

Illustrations by George Retseck

-Opening the dryer

-Installing the belt
-Finishing Up
-Step-by-step photos

If you hear a loud bang while your dryer is working,

and you notice that the drum has stopped turning,
chances are the drivebelt has snapped. Fortunately,
replacing the belt is a fairly straightforward operation
that can be handled with a few simple tools. I'll show
you how the job is done on a Whirlpool or a Sears
Kenmore gas dryer. The procedure is much the same
on an electric dryer.

Opening up the dryer

First, unplug the dryer. Lift the lint-screen cover and pull out the lint screen (Fig. 1). If your dryer has a
lint screen on the inside of the door, skip this step. Then remove the two screws that are under the cover
(Fig. 2). To unlatch the dryer top, insert a thin-blade putty knife between the top and front panel, about
21/2 in. in from one corner (Fig. 3). Push in on the knife to release the locking clip, lift the corner, then
release the clip on the other side. Swing the top up and lean it against the wall.
Next, move to the lower toe panel. Slip the putty knife between the lower panel and the door panel at
one side and twist the knife to release the clip (Fig. 4). Then release the opposite clip and lift the panel

up and off the hinge springs. To support the dryer drum while the belt is being replaced, place scrap
wood under the front of the drum (Fig. 5).
Loosen the two screws at each side of the bottom of the front panel about 11/2 turns (Fig. 6). Move to
the top of the panel and remove the screws from the inside of the cabinet that hold the front panel to the
sides (Fig. 7). Slide the old belt off the drum.

Installing the belt

Lean the front panel out slightly and allow the drum to rest on the scrap wood support. Drop the new
dryer belt between the front panel and
the drum, and loop it over the drum (Fig. 8). Then, lift the drum slightly while pushing the front panel
back into position.
Replace the screws at the top inside of the front panel, tighten the lower panel screws and remove the
scrap wood from under the drum. Check to make sure that the rear drum seal fits properly over the lip on
the rear bulkhead (Fig. 9). Position the new belt where the old belt was, with the grooved side of the belt
facing down (Fig. 10).
Now, move to the motor area and pull out the old belt. To route the new belt around the idler and drive
pulley, first pass the entire belt, doubled up, under the idler pulley. Then, push the idler belt toward the
motor, slip the belt around the motor pulley and release the tension on the idler pulley (Fig. 11).

Finishing up
Open the dryer door and rotate the drum counterclockwise a few times to make sure the belt is tracking
properly (Fig. 12). Lower the top and press down at each corner to engage the clips. Lift the lint-screen
cover, replace the two screws and reinstall the lint screen. Finally, secure the lower front panel and turn
on the dryer for a test run.

Step-by-step photos

1-- Prepare for replacing the dryer belt by lifting the lintscreen cover on the top of the dryer. Then remove the
lint screen. Skip this step if your lint screen is inside the
door. Remove the 2 Phillips screws inside the door
instead.

2-- After removing the lint screen, lift the cover and
remove the screws that hold the lint-screen housing to
the dryer top.

3-- Slide a putty knife between the front panel and the
top near a corner. Lift the corner and repeat on the
other side.

4-- To remove the lower panel, insert the putty knife

between the panel and each side. Then twist to release
clip.

5-- Place a few wood blocks under the drum. These

support the drum when the front panel is moved away
from the sides.

6-- Loosen the screws that secure the bottom of the front
panel to the dryer sides. Do not completely remove the
screws.

7-- Remove the screws that secure the front panel to the
dryer sides at the top. These are accessed from the inside
of the cabinet.

8-- Lean the front panel away from the sides and slip the
new dryer belt over the drum. Then resecure the front
panel.

9-- Check that the lip on the back of the dryer drum fits
properly against the seal on the rear bulkhead of the
dryer.

10-- Locate the original position of the old belt, and slip
the new belt in place. Keep the grooved side of the belt
down.

11-- Push the idler pulley toward the motor and loop the
doubled-up belt around the idler pulley. Slip belt around
motor pulley.

12-- Rotate the drum counterclockwise a few turns to

check belt tracking. Then replace remaining components
and test run.

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GE Dryers- Heating
elements- (Old style)
Please print this so you can
work and read along!
First, you'll need the elements.
There are different element kits
for various models, so look at
the two examples on the
elements link to see which one
you need. Doing this project
yourself saves you at least $100
in repair bills! To order the
element kit, click the link below:
GE Element Kits

Replacing the Heater Coils

The heater section is located
behind the drum and consists of
resistance wire coils suspended
in ceramic insulators. The heater
section provides the heat to dry
your clothes. The GE/Hotpoint

dryer has two coils; one for low

heat and both for high heat. If
your dryer's performance is
unimpressive in the high heat
settings it may have lost one set
of coils and if you get no heat,
you may have lost them both!

Tools Required:
5/16 inch nut driver
No. 15 Torx screw driver
Wire cutters are handy for getting
the old coils off and needle nosed
pliers are handy for getting the
new coil wires on the terminals .
Parts Required: GE WE11X260
or a WE11X203 coil kit. (These
have 2 elements in them)
Procedures for Replacing the
Heater Coils
1.Unplug the dryer, disconnect

the dryer vent and pull the dryer

far enough away from the wall to
get behind it.
2.Use a 5/16 inch nut driver to
remove about 10 sheet metal
screws from the rear access
panel. Remove the panel and
slide it down the power cord to
get it out of the way.
3.Make a little drawing of how the
belt is routed around the idler
pulley and the motor pulley.
Reach in and relieve the tension
on the belt by moving the idler
pulley away from the belt. Slip the
belt off the motor pulley and idler
pulley.
4.Locate the metal plate on the
back of the dryer behind the
drum. Use a 5/16 inch nut driver
to remove the screws and then
the panel.
5.Use a small screw driver to pry
the e-clip off the end of the drum
shaft. Keep a finger on this e-clip
as you ease it out or it will fly
away and you will have to hunt
for it. Carefully remove the three
washers on the end of the shaft.
The drum is now free to slide out
of the rear bearing.
6.Open the door and remove the
four Torx screws holding down
the underside of the top panel.
The panel will then lift up. Use a
5/16 inch nutdriver to remove the
two screws inside the cabinet,
near the top on either side that
hold the front of the cabinet on.
7.Lift the front off the two screws

down at the bottom and swing

the front around to the right
without disconnecting any wires
and lean it up against the side of
the cabinet.
8.Grip the drum with one hand at
the rear and the other hand at the
front. Be careful not to cut
yourself on the razor sharp edges
on the porcelain coated drum.
Pull the drum forward to clear the
rear bearings and then lift it up
and out. Leave the belt on it and
set it aside.
9.Now you have a good view of
the heater shroud and coils. It will
be easy to locate the breaks in
the coils.
10.Remove the broken coils. This
task is made easier by cutting up
the old coils into several pieces
and carefully pulling them
through the standoff insulators.
Be gentle with the insulators as
they are fragile.
11.If these were original coils, the
ends of the coils will be welded to
the terminal bolts. Cut the wires
off and remove the old terminal
bolts by loosening the outer nut
and disassembling the insulators.
If the old terminals have the wires
sandwitched between two nuts,
loosen the nut on the end of the
terminal. Again, be careful not to
put too much torque on the nuts
or you will break the insulators.
Remove the remaining old wires.
12.Prepare the coils for
restringing by stretching them to
specific lengths. Stretch the

inside coil to 42 1/2 inches and

the outer coil to 49 1/2 inches.
These lengths are for a relaxed
coil. It is better to have the coils
too short than too long. If you
stretch them too far, the coils will
sag down and touch the metal
heater shroud and burn up.
13.Install the new terminal bolts
through the insulators. Be
carefull not to break an insulator.
You can't safely install the
terminals with broken insulators
and another trip down to the
parts store to get new ones will
slow down your repair a bunch.
14.Start threading the new coils
through the insulators on the
side opposite the therminals and
work in both directions toward
the terminals.
15.Note that both coils are
connected to the top terminal and
the other two ends are connected
to the remaining two terminals.
16.Use a needle nose pliers to
wind the wires around the
terminals between two washers
and nuts.
17.Slide the drum into its rear
bearing
18.Replace the three washers and
the e-clip on the drum shaft in
back of the dryer. Replace the
bearing cover plate.
19.Loop the belt behind the idler
pulley, pull it back and then loop
the belt around the motor pulley.

20.Replace the rear panel and the

dryer vent.
21.Swing the front panel around
and position it on the two lower
screws. Use a 5/16 inch nut driver
to replace the two sheet metal
screws at the top.
22.Lower the top and secure it
with the 4 Torx screws
23.Plug in the power cord and
check for proper operation.

Remember!: If the elements

went out, it is likely you also
have venting restrictions.
Please visit my page on the
subject here to see if your
vent conforms. There is no
sense in throwing good
money into parts which
could fail again soon :)

Need a Repair Manual?

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How to tear down the Maytag Dryer

Let's start by removing the two Phillips head
screws from the front panel:

Next, let's remove the front panel:

NEXT ---->>>>

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The Virtual Repairman provide these free tips so you can save money on your appliance problems. Please consider purchasing your parts from us to help offset the cost of maintaining this website. You
will be impressed at our fast service and friendly parts distributors. Call 800-507-4040 for all of your parts and accessories needs!

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How to Install a Dryer Cord

Installing or changing an electric dryer cord is easy to do. The diagrams below show how to install either a
3 or 4-wire cord.

Typical 3-wire installation

Note: The two outer power wires may be interchanged. It does not matter which
power terminals are used. The neutral wire must always go on the center terminal!

Buy a 3-wire cord now- Only $9.95!

Typical 4-wire installation:

Buy a 4-wire cord now- Only $18.95 !

We carry a full line of cords and accessories!

Call our Parts Hotline at 1-800-507-4040

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Whirlpool/Kenmore Dryer Tune-Up Kits

(Fits Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper & Estate)

This repair kit consists of the 3 most common parts which generally require
replacement after 5-7 years of use. Each kit contains a new belt, new drum support
rollers and a new idler pulley. This will make the dryer almost like new again!
Comes with great instructions that every do-it-yourselfer will enjoy! This repair will
save you well over $100 if you hired someone to do it!

Only $24.95

This kit only fits Whirlpool products with the lint screen on top. (Does not work on Maytag, GE or Frigidaire!)

For models with the lint screen in the door, order the 27" tune-up kit.
This one will also fit the Whirlpool Thin-Twin stack units.
Only $29.95!

(27" Kit has 4 rollers)

Maybe you have a different brand to tune up. How about a Maytag, Frigidaire or Westinghouse dryer?
Parts are available for these as well- Click here.

Copyright 2006 The Virtual Repairman .

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Common Repair Parts for Dryers

Element Kit includes terminal adapters and
instructions. Replaces most part numbers
since 1975. For Whirlpool/Kenmore, KitchenAid,

Thermal Fuse

Estate and Roper Dryers

(See list)

WP part # 4391960
Only $29.95 !

Only $12.40 for a limited time!

For later model Kenmore and Whirlpool Dryers, there is a shorter element
which occupies the lower half of the burner box. See the picture below:

This element lists for $49.95 Part number 279838

Ships immediately!

Gas Dryer Ignitor-

This popular ignitor will replace all square ignitors on

gas dryers such as Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, Magic
Chef, GE, Westinghouse and others.
Sale Priced at $24.50!

Gas Valve Coil Kit

Repairs "no-light" conditions on gas valves in most brands.

Why spend $100 or more on a new gas valve when you can repair it much cheaper?

Sale Price- $26.50

Thermal Cutoff Kit- Includes thermal fuse and hi-limit thermostat

Fits most Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Kenmore and Roper brands.

$24.95

Whirlpool/Kenmore Dryer Maintenance KitIncludes 2 new rear drum rollers, a new belt and a new idler pulley. Complete instructions!
Fits all models with lint filter on top.

Only $24.95!

Frigidaire Dryer Parts- Great Prices!

(NOTE: The following three parts are considered a tune-up for most
Frigidaire, Westinghouse & Gibson dryers when purchased together)-

Flat Belt for Frigidaire Dryers

Sale price- $12.95

Maytag Dryer Parts-

Maytag Dryer Belt # 312959

Sale price- $19.95

(Fits all models prior to 1997, such as models beginning with DG, DE, LDG, LDE, SE, LSE etc.)

Maytag Neptune Dryer Belt #33002535 Sale price- $14.50

(Fits all Neptune dryers to date.)

Maytag Drum Rollers # 12001541 Sale price- $22.50

(Fits all standard Maytag dryers, except Performa)

Maytag Blower Wheel # 303836

Sale price- $14.50

(Fits all standard Maytag dryers, except Performa, Neptune and Atlantis)

More Parts:
GasDryer Ignitors
GE Dryer Elements

We carry all washer and dryer parts at our 16 warehouse locations. Call
our Toll-Free Parts Hotline and see how easy ordering appliance parts
can be!

Call 1-800-507-4040

HOME

CONTACT US

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Neat things you can do with Bounce!

M
E
N
U

Repel mosquitoes.
Tie a sheet of Bounce through a belt loop when
outdoors during mosquito season.
Eliminate static electricity from your
television screen.
Since Bounce is designed to help eliminate
static cling, wipe your television screen with a
used sheet of Bounce to keep dust from
resettling.
Dissolve soap scum from shower doors.
Clean with a used sheet of Bounce.
Freshen the air in your home.
Place an individual sheet of Bounce in a drawer
or hang one in the closet.
Prevent thread from tangling.
Run a threaded needle through a sheet of
Bounce to eliminate the static cling on the thread
before sewing.
Eliminate static cling from pantyhose.
Rub a damp, used sheet of Bounce over the
hose.
Prevent musty suitcases.
Place an individual sheet of Bounce inside
empty luggage before storing.

Freshen the air in your car.

Place a sheet of Bounce under the front seat.
Clean baked-on food from a cooking pan.
Put a sheet in the pan, fill with water, let sit
overnight, and sponge clean. The antistatic
agents apparently weaken the bond between the
food and the pan while the fabric softening
agents soften the baked-on food.
Eliminate odors in wastebaskets.
Place a sheet of Bounce at the bottom of the
wastebasket.
Collect cat hair.
Rubbing the area with a sheet of Bounce will
magnetically attract all the loose hairs.
Eliminate static electricity from venetian
blinds.
Wipe the blinds with a sheet of Bounce to
prevent dust from resettling.
Wipe up sawdust from drilling or
sandpapering.
A used sheet of Bounce will collect sawdust like
a tack cloth.
Eliminate odors in dirty laundry.
Place an individual sheet of Bounce at the
bottom of a laundry bag or hamper.
Deodorize shoes or sneakers.
Place a sheet of Bounce in your shoes or
sneakers overnight so they'll smell great in the
morning.

These handy tips were generously provided by Joey Green

From his book "Polish Your Furniture with Panty Hose"

Copyright 1995 by Joey Green. Reprinted with permission.
For more alternative uses for products, visit www.wackyuse.com

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