An unleashed account of Namdapha National Park, Arunachal Pradesh.

Utpal Singha Roy

Namdapha National Park (NNP) also a Tiger Reserve with its pristine forests

covers an area of 1985 square km. and lies in the international border between India and

Myanmar (Burma) within Changlang District in the state of Arunachal Pradesh in the

northeast India. I, guided by my teachers and accompanied by fellow friends, recently

(27th February 2nd March 2010) had the good fortune to witness the true wilderness and

enchanting beauty of diverse flora and fauna of this biodiversity hotspot.

It was promising to be a bright day ahead as we boarded for Dibrugarh at 7:00 hrs

from Netaji Subhas International airport, Kolkata on 27 February 2010. The sky was

reasonably clear and the Himalayan range of snow covered mountains was visible at

distance. It took about one and a half hours to reach Dibrugarh from where we hired a

four wheeler having enough space to accommodate six people with their luggage. The

ambient temperature was pretty soothing and our vehicle most efficiently ate up the

kilometers as we passed several towns on our way Tinisukia, Digboi, Margherita, Ledo,

Lekhapani, Jairampur, Jagun and finally we reached Namchik Gate, one of the entrance

point for Arunachal Pradesh. We stretched our fatigued legs as the officials verified our

Inner Line Permits there. As we moved along a sign board caught our notice and we were

informed that it was the famed Stilwell Road, laid during World War II connecting Ledo

in Assam to Kunming in China. Our next destination was Miao, where we had to

complete some formalities and the forest officials confirmed our booking at Deban rest

house, NNP. The final formality was to be completed at Mpen check gate, the entrance

point for NNP, and we were rather thrilled to realize that we had entered the national
park. The sun was setting and it become fairly dark as we were covering the last 30 kms

of muddy serpentine road from Miao to Deban where we crossed the Anamika falls. At

5:30 hrs we reached the picturesque Deban Rest House and such was the ambience that

we felt absolute harmony and endless inner peace. That night we recorded so many bird

calls some of which were of lapwings, others were of owlets also we heard the bark of

barking dear not very far.

Next day morning 28th February 2010, we woke up early but it was a gloomy

morning with cloud and mist covering all over us while it was raining steadily and a

strong chill wind was blowing from the north. At 8:00 hrs the weather seemed to take a

rest and we saw the first rays of sunlight at this part of the world which exposing the

panorama made us spellbound. After a hurried breakfast we setout for a walk by the

rough Noadehing riverbed guided by Eltutsa, our local forest guide. The lush green

vegetation was mainly formed by hollong, hollock, mekai, khokan, and jhutuli plants

while a number of varieties of ferns and ornamented weeds were also noticed. Butterflies

and birds were generously available but the sight that trapped us mesmerized was that of

the only ape of our country, the hoolock gibbon, it was a troop of four gibbons with one

female and three male members. After a strenuous yet rewarding day we returned to our

rest house at dusk, by that time the sky was perfectly clear. We passed that evening

chatting over a cup of hot coffee while admiring the full moon that bought a heavenly

peace and added a perpetual magnificence to the ambience.

The following day 1st March 2010 we were all set by 7:00 hrs to trek up to

Bulbulia camp, almost 15 km away form Deban rest house. A small forest department

boat assisted us to cross the Noadehing River while we had to traverse the precipitous
current of Deban River barefooted guided by Eltutsa. The sun was signing gloriously

over the remote mountains as we entered in the tropical rain forest of NNP, leaving

Deban River on the left hand side. Typical vegetation with ferns, orchids, tree creepers

and vibrant fungus immediately caught our sight. A number of birds were there for

display including various laughing thrushes, hornbills, flycatchers, barbets, dove and

pigeons. We noted more than 15 species of butterflies and moths some of which were

rare and endemic to this part of the world. At about 9:30 hrs we reached our first

destination Haldibari camp almost 5 km. away from Deban rest house. Up to this point

the forest path was mostly gentle with occasional undulations, covered by fallen leaves

and guarded by a number of voracious leeches. Alas, excluding Eltutsa none of us had

leech guards and that made us pay more attention to our feet than ever before. Next 7 km.

stretch of forest path, up to Hornbill camp was denser, darker and chillier. Except for

incidental open space by fallen plantation sun rays were become rarer. We observer spoor

marks of wild boars in this stretch, while Eltutsa introduced us to plants like rudraksha

and dhuna. At midday we reached Hornbill camp, an open land of about 50 meter

radius, with two small rest shades made of tin and had our pre-packed lunch there. Our

next destination was Bulbulia camp about 3 km away from Hornbill camp and this stretch

of forest path was the most difficult for us to trek. Fallen tree logs had made the trekking

path come to abrupt halts whereas the path itself was steep, slippery and narrower. We

crossed three tiny conduits of freshwater sources which were occupied by fingerling of

fishes. Leopard scat and urine marking were evidenced here while we spotted flying

squirrel. At about 1:30 hrs we reached Bulbulia camp, again a small tin made rest shade.

About 30 meter below the rest shade was an open land with a small channel carrying salt
rich water and we were informed that forest animals are often found here in search of

minerals. Natural gas with a smell of sulfur was coming out from a point source of that

channel and Eltutsa most enthusiastically put a burning match stick in the gas and to our

utter astonishment the gas gave bursts of flames. We had not enough time in hand to sit

down and let the animals come to lick minerals as we had to make our return journey of

about 15 km. We felt a bit tired and our legs got fatigued as we made our return to the

entrance point of the forest. As we made our exit unknown bird calls were heard and

believe me it sounded like bravo, bravo. It was 6:00 hrs and it became literally

invisible as the sun was set by that time and a black cloud was engulfing the horizon.

Exhausted we formed a human chain to cross the Deban River and dragged ourselves to

the Noadehing riverbed where to our good fortune the forest boat was waiting to take us

ashore. It started raining and when we reached Daban rest house at 6:50 hrs our delight

was more obvious than our pain. Immediately we agreed Eltutsa for the next day to take

us to Motijheel, another rewarding forest trek from Deban rest house.

But the over night rain never seemed to stop and the next day 2nd March was

washed out. With deteriorating climatic conditions we were forced to leave Deban and by

that evening we reached Miao, courtesy to a forest department vehicle. We were never in

a frame of mind to cut our expedition short and decided to visit Mehao Wildlife

Sanctuary and so we started a fresh journey the next day 3rd March by crossing the

Bramhaputra River. That too was another great experience and may be unfolded in the

coming days. But as for now it must be admitted as in so many other National Parks in

India NNP is also facing increasing pressure from growing aggregates of tribal

settlements. We witnessed cultivated lands and domesticated animals to our way through
the national park. Indiscriminate slash and burn practice has made the forest edges

masses of bare lands while growing need for forest woods and unauthorized poaching has

made the situation worse. One must start acting right now to save this national heritage or

else the forest along with its endless flora and fauna will become the fairytale of

yesterday!