shading garments on the body
shading garments of different fits
~
“Toloed gamers tren cana
have shape thes been steed
eneeceateee
“ett tp eosetiting
ow'hewase Tne
tteincotednte Baw
‘ada have raat corscton
Shading Garments on the Body
Knowing the pattems of ight and shadow tat
‘on the unclothed body provides us with good
basis for knowing where light and shadow il
tn the clothed bodyyand how we should shade
To know more precisely where ight and shadow
forms depends fist on theft ofthe ga
tightly orleosely the garments ft the figure.
Tightfitting garments
With tightfiting garments the body underneath
in eontact with the garment in almost ovary
tion. In the extreme case a tightiting body sit
touches the body underneath in al pats iting
like a second skin, n these cases of tight iting
‘ments the shadows that appoar an the sural
the garment wil be almost exacty the same as
those that appear onthe unclothed gue
iy tight blouses or pants can reise eyeball
We shade tight iting garments-on the iguein
same way as we draw the unciothed figurthe
parts ofthe garments that are fulton to height.
source are fully ltand appear white o ight
sion ofthe color ofthe fabric, Those pats that
bending away trom the ight source are where
shadows form and appear asa darker versionaf
color ofthe fabric
Looseffitting garments
With looaefting garments he Figure undethay
smentisncontat wit the garment at ower
than for tghefiting garments. The shadows
form on the surface of the garment are th
those that fom onthe unclthed figure inthe
paces where the garments the fue St
the parts where garments donot tthe ia
al awa, ering drape, the garment orm sh
siferent om those othe ire undemeath
wil show adilerent sto ihtand shacons
How we shade those parts of garments tata
supported by the body undernesth and whe
fabric forms drape depends on how the fbi
‘garment drapes I the fabric of the garment a
in such a way that, ather than following the i
of the bo. it falls straight down ands on
light sourcs then it wil appear welt, without
‘ow An example ofthis would be the tran ofa
ding dross
Drape and Folds
Whenever there is some lnosness-sua cl
fullness-in a garment-which means that wha
tere is more fabric ina garment hen eau
foumatightfiting skin the excess fabri fl
Under the influence of gravy tom the pats
itis the body underneath-caled the su
points-to form drepe. Drape appears as ods
ferent wiaths and depths-rom bare inplesto
‘unnels-with the ange ofthe plane of the abe
ten shiting between folds, curving avay em
back towards the light.shading garments on the body
shading folds/light and dark fabric
Shang fl in abe 2
\
Shad ls atti 2
Shatin fol dae 4
Stan fl atic
rape according to the laws of gravity these visu
al aspects ofa fabric are successfully captured ina
ctrawing, then it wil be possible almost to feel the
fabric in the drawing as wells to recognize isu
ally
Drape forms in the fabrics of garmentsin diferent
ways. depending on a numberof factors how
‘much exoess fabric is present the type and tick
fcis sus
‘ness athe fabric, how and where th
pended and is other constructional aspects, inclu
ing whether the fabric has been pressed or tested
wth chemicals ta haldanificia fold and shapes or
‘here other constructional details have been intio-
‘duced into the garment by means of devices Ike
tucks and darts, pleating. uci. gathering and so
Drape afects the pattern of ight and shadow o
the surface of garments according tothe ferent
shapes it makes in the fabvic-the flds and chenges
in angles of the planasin the fabric. Some of the
main types of drape corresponding tothe natu
drape of cifferent typo fabrics a tothe aicially
consttcted drape of certain fashion detals are
shown in the llustrations included in the pagesin
this section
Applying Shading
‘Shadows should be applied inthe diction of he
body shape 1 be defined! far example, around ne
bust cather than in a straight line. Lona vertical
strokes are use forthe longer more vertical pars
the body such as the upper torso and the lgs. The
‘edges of shadows should be clean, le
Note that shadows are directly affected bythe
position of he light source and wil lengthen on th
ht source
‘and even.
‘opposite side from the
Common Mistakes
One ofthe most comman mistakes in shading the
fashion figure is to use a back or dark net nd
cate shadow under the bust-line. This usualy reads
incorrectly as a seam or scat—s definite DONOT
DO. The bustling is sft and does nothavea sharp
edge itis drawn with soft, diffused shadowsshading garments on the body
drape at bust and shoulder/ waist/cylinder and sphere
soni taba laph Dati aliricetcee’periaina nec setatwme,garments on the body
g fashion details/different drape
“ho hag oftheir
‘phere arolanttendngot
moet sta
cascade rape
hosing of vatousfston detaiand ype tareshading simple garments step-by-step
circle skirt/trenchcoatsilk jersey/chiffon/organza/cottonheavy satin/leather/vinylfringe/feathers/brading
Drawing garments of different fabrics
Tis section shows how to raw garments made
Lgntedore ingore wide range of itferent fabrics so they appear ei
Se unseprment ticand three dimensional
tein tne adhe way ‘As with any type of fashion drawing itis import
= fist to make sure the ctoqus andthe sihousteal
the garment are craw as accurately as possible
‘with correct proporions and scale. Next. theshad
‘sin the drape ofthe flds have tobe planed a
‘these will vary according tothe type oath
ments made of. As we have seen, generaly speak
in, heavier fabrics tend o have wide reas of
‘and cast wider shadows lightweight febres have
narrow areas of crane and cast thinner shadons
Look carefully atthe type of fabric being deawnand
the quails itdsplays and ty to crest ta
_ance wth markers For softeclooking of more
tured fabrics, such as wool, cashmere, vat cor
duroy and others the appearance isbest aan
Using a combination of marker ard colored pene
the pencil helps create the sot texture. Merk
sed to create broad areas of colo Fabris tata
smooth or eisp are best rendered by ating
sive layers of markers of the same and dferentiak
esto build up range of values that give esis
representation of how lights elected em thai
face
Fringa is tha term used for any fabric with ose
‘threads, ether bunched into tasles or twists oF
separated. Fringe can be made fom practealy anf
fabric including lenther. beads sik, chit
‘woos, lace or linen, Fringe is usual
‘red pencil to capture the stingy qualiy, ba can
‘also be drawn with the fine tip of marer Make
sure fringe is drawn with a swing! Shadows canbe
applied o show the deeper parts ofthe fringe
Frege ether tae
vnc taal
‘rormade nar ail
Saiteeran Aveneathers/tiered tringe
q
Aah Alok I
*
A AW”
aa i :
ay
sivoly used inf
and delicate anuede/metalic leather
Suede is a fabric created by brushing the underside
‘of lamb. pig oF goat skins to create a soft napped!
surface tis soft and pliable and used extensively in
fashion garments and accessories, The sft napped
sutface produces very soft flds with ‘sheer rather
than shine on the tops ofthe folds, drawn using the
side of awhite pencil. Suede is drawn withthe wide
tip ofthe marker. The background coloris applied
from the reverse sie to give a soft even application,
Shadows are defined by using the side of ablack or
{dark-colored pencil Shadows are applied in wide,
‘oven strokes,
Maraiclosher ada Wet xn rece
ght ronda thee mare ere
‘secedeKit are drawn by fst making an oven appl
‘ofthe color ofthe garment as a background Tl
raws of stitches are then lightly sketched in
the side of a pencil The ines break when th
‘ove nto fod or into an area of sheen. Whi
appearance of depth, Note that
wide and the silhouettes ofthe garments
and st far rom the body. For heavy cut al
lorem indicate the depth of the ibs by using
shadow in between,
‘These hanbkit sweaters show avait fs
pattems and yams. When drawing kts ud
constrains itis not necessary to render ve
inthe garment show afew stiches and if ete
sary include a separete side drawing ofa cose
ofthe pattern ofthe stitches.
120ae created
put background,
crossing pattems are possible using from on
to four cables. One cable looks like a snake, two cabl
braids look like rope, Cables usualy run vertical but
can also be made into latices; distance between
repeats varies as does the volume ofthe cable-how
chunky it pears
\When drawing cable knits fist sketch out the pattern
with the correct number of rpeas. Oraw inthe
cables with heavy shading at the edges and sheen or
the tops. These knits ae usualy heavy and bulky and
form wide olds
poked eaeFelts made inthe same way as paper, without use
‘of yen. by compressing finers-usualy wool- under
conditions of heat and dampness. The resulting fab-
ries very stif and bulky with ite drape.
Flannelis soft woven fabvi with a fuzzy surtace
often used in tallored gazments. The drape is soft.
wide and round drapes. Te surtace is matt so there
is tle contrast in values in the drape.
“Tweed is 2 rough. untnished woolen fabri made
with pain or twill weave and often with ahering
‘bane or other wellknown check patterns such 3s
hhoundstooth or Prince of Wiles
Fok etree
Slay der sue ana bass
‘hishounstotn aol wand st sob anon
isa eed woven uresed wos abrowah son ey carta yee
dean cher ster he bse aero aes
sino annus where
pe
‘header ote iege Te pate repens raesr
136Rendering skin tone to look realistic
using gradation of tone
Togive the body a east, treed mensional
appearance the skin has tobe shaded to resemble
tha way Wappear in ely with reas in ight and
aeasin shadow This rule applies oral diferent,
skin tones, both ight and dak
‘Although in actual light conditions thereis a contin
‘uous gradation of shading onthe skin ftom ight 0
dark. in fashion drawing the convention is, inthe
Interests of speed and simplicity, to teduce this gra
dation to thrae values—light, medium and dark
time permits, however, as seen in many ofthe draw
Ingsin thisbook many more aves of gradation can
‘be addedh, When using markers, te ight values
cteated by leaving the white surface ofthe paper
‘unmarked: the medium values the marker color
chosen forthe skin tone and the dark value i the
‘marker color chosen for shading
When drawing skin tone using shading. sit
appears three dimensional, the first decison to be
‘made concerns the direction f the light source—
‘whether itwill appear from the frontor side. fa
dcision is made to light the figure from the rant
the sides ofthe figure willbe in shadow if om the
side the shadows will appear on the opposite side
from the light sourcs.
Wit kom the front a narrow strip of light appears
down the center ofthe torso logs and arms which
is shown by leaving a narrow strip of paper
unmarked. Tha res of the igure receives an appt
cation of skin tone color. On the upper body hiss
‘applied on either side o the stip of ight using a
careful vertical up-and-down stroke On the legs and
cms, application is mado with long, vertical stokes
‘rom the hins tothe knees and knees to feet and
shoulders to elbows and elbows to wrists, running
the marker long the contours of the igure. alow
inga thin vertical strip of ight, about an eighth of an
inch wide, to remain inthe center ofthe legs
Streaking can accutin skin tone colori itis applied
‘wit short, jerky strokes. To avoid this itis best to
apy the marker with smaoth, continuous stokes,
‘and not removing it from the surface ofthe paperin
migeaction. This is a technique that has to be mas
tered, and itis useful to practice making long. con
tinuous strokes ona separate piece of paper before
beginning the drawingend cn ane sn one,
Drsinomice Cristo deinen fares ar
Glare gig sveedmrsors appear. Tre ce
“flat theinaintone wth rr apscaons ter on
Pinhead ketene ace scr yen
In color/shaaing the Tace/color CNoices
Drawing the Face in color
Drawing the face, particulary when rawingitin colo,
requires a delicate touch anda sensthy tothe subst
tiny shits in he features that can rest in cromatc
changes in expression. h general the marker shouldbe
held lose tothe tp to exert a greater degree of convo
wnt shorter stokes Rs easy to make mistakes when
trawing te face st contains lage amount fino
maton na smallarea for example, an eve placed an
tghth ofan inch above the ther wilmake the face
appeer hopelessly asymmetecal and stated Practica
makes perlect but experiencing dculy craig the
{aces acsabl to switch to colored pene tc
the eatutes. sian be easy erased and corrected.
Keep in mind that al the main features ofthe face—ihe
‘width ofthe eye the length a thenase and the width of
the mouth-are about the same sze: a commen aor f
‘example, isto draw tha mouth too low onthe face: the
‘mouth should be kept close tothe nose, and as reat
the face willook younger and more natural. The chin
should always be included in the crawing-itis approx
‘mately he same size asthe mouth!
Shading the Face
To diaw the face realistically to appear tree-dimension
al. tisnecessary to show clearly the various lanes of
the face by indicating areas ol ight and shade, This can
be achieved in two ways the fst involves dfn the
full ange of valves that make up the planes ofthe face.
the second defines only the shaded areas ofthe fac,
For the first method use a blended color ofilin the fc
in all aceas except those where highlights usualy appes
ie. the bridge and tip ofthe nose, the cheekbones, the
point ofthe chin and the ine ofthe aw A second ayer
‘ot col. slightly darker than the fists then pled in
the areas ofthe face that ae in shadow the eye socket
‘along the side ofthe nase, under the nose inthe mich
‘ofthe mouth, under the lips along the side ofthe face
and under the jawine, Blended colar an be applied o
the cheeks ralang the side of th face to show reflec
‘light and perhaps, particulary if blended rse colo
is used, a healthy, vibrant skin especialy wth chien)
‘When drawing the skin tonas of darkerskinned races th
highlights ae applied afterwards using a white penci
\With the second method of drawing the face naturalist
cal the features of the face are fist drawn wth a
light colored pencil and skin tone is applied only 10 the
‘areas where shadows form, using blended colt.
\eriations in value canbe achieved by applying a secon
layer in areas where shadows are deeper.
Color Choices
Colo choices canbe used, of cours, to represent nat
ral skin colors, ut thay aso are effective devioes to cre
ate value contrast and dynamism in a drawing. As wth
the makeup used in fashion shows, loense can also be
taken when drawing fashion and colors chosen that
‘ot naturalistic but dramatize and enhance the present
sion of the gaements
‘The drawings onthe previous and following pages sho
‘wide range of skin colors and shading techniques,
‘dean on front view and three quarter faces. The thes
‘quarter face shows the planes of the face more drama
cally 30 the darkand light areas can be clearly perceive‘Thana apteation of colar 108) se on rin
Beedbege stn tne ioninghiotontson reed
srcnoas Cant aed alt ry sepia
‘Bene beige skin tones Hernan
bore senate senator yo ia
Beno ron apts over odes Exit
thebrdgect te ose. arden tps. Buck pons umd-
=
sreng eyebrow and
Eyes and Make up
Asin teal if. makeup dramatizes the face and
adds accents to the clothing
‘When drawing eyes, note that they are akways
lowor on the inside and higher onthe outside The
line at the top ofthe eye represents the evolashes
viewed from the front and is darker than the line
Under the eye. Makeup is drawn in delicately with
‘ether marker or blended marker depending on
how saturated the color ofthe makeup i. White
‘ge! pen can be used to bring in elections around
the eye-to the upper and lower i, the is, aye
brow
& ¢
a
UWomandcoolotrs ‘Shiny shan soon
se &
esc eh siete te
187Lips and Lipstick
“The base colo th sticks opti wil
ed marker and accents are added the
between the i with colored enol Hi
are createdin the centro ho bp tha
the white of the paper unmarked or ea
‘white penci or wh dar as, whitessects
errsaatesns aces
Hair
Ir fashion drawing hat frames the face. making
prettior, and aocessorizes the gatments. Hair can be
treated in @ numberof ways, ranging rom a natural
look to highly atfcial colors and shapes. Accessor:
jes can be added to te hair—bows, clips tiaras,
feathers hai extensions fr example—and hat
styles on the runway have become wild and
exuberant
In drawing. the hair should be thought of asa series
of shapes, somatimes simple, somtimes mare
complex. For baginnersitis easiest to draw the out
line ofthe hair and to fil in with the desired cola
The edges of the haircan then be broken up ing
second easy stop, using curved lines for wavy ha
nd straight ines for straight hai, Remember, hae
frames the face, fling in tan angle towards the
javelin. Itdoos not, unless you happen to cloaaly
resemble Cleopatrs. nina horizontal ine
ledges are always broken up and nover horizontal
Im more advanced treatments of har to.adel degth
and realsm to the drawing, the more complex
shapes that lie within the simple outine shapes
‘each have to be identified and shaded rom darko
light. Darker shadows often appear close to the ace
‘and under the chin, anhair further away fom the
face appears progressively lighter. tis best to avoid
using too many ins to express hair most ofthe
{tal should be added onl tthe outer edges of
tha silhouette so the drawing does not end up with
the look ofabca's nest. Make sue the lines ofthe
nai are parallel and draw in the dracon in which
‘the hair als, Use photo of face fr retetence and
trace inthe eutve ofthe hae witha finger. for gue
‘ance. Note that with blonde hai shadows appear
darker than the shadows around red or dark ai as
the value contrast is greater
Highlights can be added to hair in one of wo ways
either by allowing the whit ofthe paper to show
‘through the hair or by acing highlights with white
pencil after the hair has been filed in. Light ayes of
‘calor built up inthe air can give it richness and
beauty beyond s single aplication of colar,
159160
ian. Step 1. inhair
straight with complex highlights/tousled look
¥
Ob
hal wn colitis cine
ld bronn penal where the hr bras sighty ay fom
“oudodtoaktt Sup 1.Dsne st ota ira we
Sdght har win complex hghights Sto 2a
Toute ak Stn 2. As ner colre per
Friar teeswavy/curly/do not do'sColor alterations in photoshop
wali icogeinerpractice and exercises
Beginners
1. Choose a croquis rom the Chaptr Tres
Chapter Si and iin comgletely wit neta
tone. Using a penci add eye shadows
2. Copy a face rom this chapter. Filin wil
<.Draw a simple ron view eroquis. Adda
to the face and body. Add the detaisothe
hair using colored pencils
4,{)Draw a page of heads each wih ier
make-up.) Draw the same foe ten imesh
different skin tones.
5. Drew a page of mouths wth diferent i
6.Using images trom magazines psig
from the internet of hairstyles youl, is
ther then copy them using markers
7. Copy aface and hairstyle you tke anda
‘olor ofthe bai.
8, Copy. face and hairstyle youlikeand ca
skintone. make up and haircolorStep Four: Shading
Then step in crowing te fstian For
‘montis the application of shading Shading
deptton of shadow onthe sac lc
fand he simultaneous depiction of igh ha
ing ot present genera pecking was
closet. ight source will have no shad
trees further awey wil eppea da onda
Shad). Te accurate rarest cat
Shedow in a drowngis whet males oem
‘tppoar rea and theo dmonsional Wea
fteoppcaion of shina dawings la
and twodimensional
‘Atan advanced lovel shading techniques ca
50 desired, used ta give near photographie
santation ofthe surface quits fife
sis covered in Chapter Four: Fabrics. Ath
tlementaty level, however the focusses
the general rules for how to shade drape a
bbends around and fals orn te gure. The
riques are ilustrated with reference tod
‘ments of nonspeciied fabrics. Shadingo
specific fabrics isnot yet atterptedin hse
but features in detain the next chaptar on
women's fashion
Each ofthe drawings inthis chapter shows
basic shading is applied to igure ad ga
Note that as arule shading i added s fal
toaccentuate the shape and surface apa
the fabrics and 1 hep ferent separa
‘ments where tay are layered over each
When working witrtighter fais, howevei
‘uite common to make an inital cutie aa
‘of marker to represent shading before ahi
‘main colors of the garments: Adting thes
first indicates were the highlights wil ape
the final drawing, nd with ight colored ga
highlights are shown by leaving the hited
paper unmarked. tis easier to tll where
Fighlights formed ay unmarked paper will
positon of the darker, shaded, parts kom
‘main colo of the garments led before
shading its essy to apply erroneously ra
‘that should be aft white
Preparing to Draw
Before beginning to dave a umberal
{ preparatory tasks should be perormed
‘These are listed on page 26 in Chapt
‘Stan The ring hows where shang sapped rca wher shows em
178Feces oes
r \ re
fe Oana Atomiewsto. Spa. atte foe Sep8. Addshoingtote cet Risso St ete ede cobs
Sistite stent caw alte Trecusidtwaddehsioenbtre tebe aed is Tbe corte
tvs endanger or of ey oroftiegnmentberaueitewsogetne nang tan heap todos
Testowsunrchowngsgeren wit sdieppedshaude sn hecelrenends— derenal haoghtnewnotesentaend cag Te cal ote
Preeti Dawinthecoqisyth Stove te shoud ine wd round back {tequy eee to wort om tet \Sotins bet The
Tiguocn ung coy pod pence tanaka hacker res cut a the thar Theseandatape fe shadows ino acr ai
Canurworthe Weta beet cutinad om The ight at conta wih eke ‘lepecsen the penton he by elior aes ates ne
crinaatranhundeibegarment thie giangachapeatncao he veal oth eae he eon Chapt Teen ‘Soesme eo tiain
fontne ono ae Dewininehrvathasinpeshaps huang Shang dilewtabes} ska om op
Sangster fe tad toys bl hen speadng ou isoonom epee weed at
tabecewn, Rp adng mga chorale hae.tailored jacket/denim pants
ep Tle achat esp. womens
person
‘Sp 2.Orsw inte shoueta Te bck oft clar ‘Sp 8, The lor oth et eaten ah
br stund face ihre shonn eyes
Segara carom en
secu yodtl apoewencs te chan dam Nota to sors hve
‘Show ape atthe nee andanle The techie sown
=Ditutpr cf tiehem tucked wo mopar.ed jacket/denim pantsJean jacket/camisole/shorts separatesSoft wool coat
Sp 1. Drow hacen. Art co sled Sp 2.0 nthe shout ol he coat showing mt ‘Sup 3st ne scl otte at
Sesh tkarel by mown assy tom Ie shaudes ensngup and down tom ed
‘ea abo te snatch ses! ho gent wast and turd te dons Noje tat he ated
omar deere, ‘ute ite omehasestheche taunt Dow nineA
‘Step. The folds ofthe shirt and pants are
jum in width and appear in the garment
\where the body underneath bends-a the
clbows and knaes-and where the fabric
pull-om the armhole and around the west
Filin skirtone, outline garment and pay
tention oft and sihouette
cotton/tallorea cotton shirt and pants
‘Step 2. Choose a color forthe shadows that
i a darker value ofthe fabric colo, In the
pants black is used to define the shadow and
light pone is applied tothe surface ofthe
folds.
‘Stop 3The hair and make upissoftand
Youthful and gives an interesting conta
the masculine appesrance ofthe shitle/ Stretch knit swimsult/nyion jacket
Step 2. Swimsuits wil shows rnultipl slim
to indicate they ae bending and
fetching — drawn with ight grey pencil ora
‘00 gray 103%) marker. The shiny jacket has
‘multiple folds and floats away from the body
(the hood and the her) because the fabrics
a light nylon. The ful sihouete of the jacket
Ccontasts wth the figure-hugging sihouette
fejacketisa high density microti. ict a.
neandoutine the garments ‘and leave slim ar
through onthe
trim at the wrist
The backack is
‘tap 3. Fillin the jacket with black marker
so! the paper to show
the folds and the rib
1 to indicate shine
sd with grey penghtweight nit tops
rumbers of slim, rounded
ustbeceaty shown. Outine
showing where they are com
mols, Ths wil usualy bo
the body where the hip sits up-
Sailing nthe pants
kand white/knitted tee-shirt/black pants/leather jacket/bag
‘tap 2. Begin to shade the inter
folds with a warm grey marker. The folds are
‘of itferent widths so the shadoves wil also
be o diferent widths.
‘Stap 3. Adda second application of the
same cori the interiors of the ols.‘Step 1.Fillin skin tone, outline garments, The
bodice fs tightly and the gathered skirt has
volume and round drape. The side panes are
file in with black marker.
‘Step 2. Working from light to dark coors fist filin
the skit and the center panel ofthe bodice wth the
lightest colora very light beige, which wil serve as
the lightest pat ofthe surface ofthe fabric, Add
darker values ofthe beige inthe interiors ofthe folds
inthe skirt with black inthe very deepest pats. The
bodice ist rom the ight so shadows appear on
the left side and are also created using applications
‘of and brown and black marker. Make sure the
coathers start atthe waist wt
‘Step 3. Filin the hai and shoesleather/shiny leather minidress
‘ b
Stop 1. Draw in the outline ofthe garment.
Thisleather has aster structure and so has @
boxy silhouette. The depth ofthe fabric is ind
cated atthe hem witha darker ine. Flin the
cess with a medium tone and adda second
layer ofthe same color for deeper shadows on
the inside ofthe folds and along the sides of
‘the figure. The sheen of the leather is created
with a sot application ofa Prismacolor pencil
blended atthe top ofthe folds.
‘Step 2. Add skin tone
‘Stop 3. Hair and makeup ar added
shoes are filled inleather/leather jacket
‘s aheavier leather acket with
ges and litle drape. Black leather
Unmarked, asin this crewing, or by filing the
whole garment with black end then using
‘grey marker and white pencil directly on top
ofthe black,
Step 2.The matt dress contrasts withthe
shiny black jacket and is drawn using a medi
tum value coo! gray witha slighty darker gray
pencil forthe shadows,
‘Stop 3. The zinger and details on thebati
‘raw with white gel pen,Coutine garment and
pinton te dress.
ee so eh
‘Step 2. Tore is a contrast between the fat
‘Graphic pattem ofthe printf the dress and the
soft voluminous faux fur ofthe jacket. The faux
furis drawn by making successive applications
cf ifferent color with markers and adding cob
‘ted pencils while the marker tl wet to cre-
ata the soft effect. Make sure that individual
lines can be seen atthe sihouette a the gar-
‘ment. nthe cotton dress add grey shadows
fallowing the form ofthe body vertically
‘Step 3. ad print using the thin point of red
marker. breaking up the pin inside the folds
of fabric. Pay attention to variations of shapes
fn the dress Add horizontal shading a the
hem ofthe areceStep 2.The shine and pleats ole
created by drawing rows fsa
light grey markor that follow the
rows willbend ang curve arcu
the garment an ond inthe wide
hem atthe base ofthe sit Li
isused to add drama toindostetie
the leg underneath and to scat
the bodice and hem
‘Step 1-Fillin the skin tone and outine the
garment. The fabric bends over the out
stretched leg and drapes away from the body
in diagonal sweeps.
Step 3, Warm grey is added wih
ext tothe highlights to accent
‘give depth tothe pleats and foldspment noting the jckevs
eTethn shape ofthe logs.
sand thashape and
poorest ith tho shape :
De cepesce ‘Step 2. Cleaty identify the direction ofthe
light source and start building up the print,
‘around the white highlight on the back of
the jacket Use black te the shadows
under the arm and lapel-this gives a value
contrast that makes the garment ook shiny. ‘top 3. Flin the hair and the bagTHREE-QUARTER VIEW FACE dome nesrereune,
angle, so that one side is foreshortened, and draw than when leve
thetectueson tis side appear smal han S20 sewing head
features on each side of the face are the raw in the canter-front line
Size as the others on the same side). Begin eee
seen from above
Jevel point of view. ie.. not
tr below This makes it easier to draw them
Correct perspective, as foreshos
takes place in one plano, and also means that
the vertical positioning of the feature:
hheadis the same as on the side or front view
face
1 First draw an oval, with curvature on one
Side more rounded. representing the side ee
Blosest tothe point ct ew, and ater on the drwintheteesya
ther, representing the side further away that ce re those on the sick
isforesortonod Drawin th contersron ine, May's ovey The er
Ng BroUNd he ont of he face. Inthe snorentacteen
deavn directly
he oval. Draw in aline to divide the head ‘Ne Sdeof thehead
vo sections horizontally also bending
Fond the suriace ofthe face. As when dravr
Ing the side view ofthe face, draw in anothe:
fine between that fine and the bottom of the
head, and divide that area in two again with
another line. Those lines will make cor
Placement of the features easier
2 tis possible to start drawing the face trom
any point, but its usually easiost ro stort at
thenose and mouth. Fi eee
Fepresent the base ofthe nose, inthe irae orf
Bosition asin the other views, just aver one eyasoctet
{quarter up fromthe bottom of the head, This
fing curs through the c
One third of its length on one side and two
thirds onthe other, curving a
face ofthe face: for
the face at 45°to the plane of the paper
features on the horizontal plane of the face
ate in these proportions, Draw in the profile of
the nose stating on the center-tront line at
he
Bane pert ofthe face on one side of tis pe tawndrcty om the
fOhe third the total area of the oval and shortened and extend
Bother section is about two thirds the area from the comer ofthe eye to
5. draw in aline ti
ter-front line, about
the three-quarter face
Bye level half way down the head and con:
Recting to the end of the baseline marking its
botiom edgeWst be drawn with care and
suse it expresses so much
tion ofthe face. Slanting the
kes the face appear sad.
aight eye makes a person
idfawing the eye up at the
fakes the person appear
isshaped ike an almond,
fateye level (half-way down
he eve slanting uoward
the face is ive ove wict
eyes are positioned one eve
feach edge ofthe face and
Beyelength between them—
fim and can be drawn with
nts: Starting with the
Gof the eye, closest to the
fine ofthe eye up for a
distance, flatten it out as it
he eyeball for one third
ofthe final third. The lower
165 Up 10 the outer point
lise is one third of the
eee and sits slightly under
fe Upper part ofthe eyeball
eyelid onto the eyeball.
bthe darkest point of the eye
Ppinpaint of light on it The
Polthe eyeball is also dark.
That the whites of the eyes
isa second line that can
dower edge of the eye to
the eye is recessed in the
iThe upper edge of the eye is
with darker line to give it
phistication. Longer eyes
Jol sophistication to the
jeyesmake a personIn both realistic or styized
iystrations, the location
of the main facial features
should remain as close FRONT FACE
2s possible to accurate
anatornical proportions,
Iris s partially covered
by the upper lid
The eye ee i the mide
ofthe fave, one aye
ckstance apa. The to of
the nose i located hay
botwean the eye level and )
chin on the center front line. | ft Eyes are almond
hie the lowest quarter Ay). | shaped. The tip of
of he face int treo the nse rounded.
‘qual sections. The lowest \ The mouth istihly
Section represents the longer than the exe
chin area anc the mouth is { swith rounded pur
between the top and mise areas onthe op and
sections. The distance \ flay
betveen the eyebrows and ;
the to ofthe head is 80
‘fvded into treo equal
sections. The top section
represents the har in.‘pd bridge ofthe nose become part
ofthe outine contour ofthe face.
je mouth and chin are placed on an
andthe iis is oval shaped and sits
"fe the ids. Jaw and neck tines
stat atthe chin as one, and spit as
the upper ine curves tothe ear and
the lower ine forms the neck outine.
lace a strong shadow undemeath
the ci,
3/4 FACE
‘The center front line ofthe 3 face is shifted according
to the degree of the tur. Front face proportions remain
the same on the side ofthe face closest to the viewer.
‘The far side ofthe fave is foreshortened, The length
ofthe foreshortened eye should be reduced. The far
‘comer ofthe foreshortened side of the mouth should
bbe brought closer to the center front ine. The bridge
‘of the nose is more pronounced and the far nostrils,
barely visible
PROFILEFor up-tumed views, foreshorten
the length of the face by curving
up the chin tine. The eye level is
‘ised, and the bridge of the nose
's foreshortened with a strong
‘emphasis on the mouth and chin.
This s an excollont view for big
collars and necklaces, due to the
elongated neck,
Up & DOWN FACES
For down-tumed
views, sightiy strech
the head oval anc
bring the eye level
down, The chin covers
most of the neck, while
the bridge ofthe nose
is elongated, and the
top lip becornes a thin
line. Emphasis is on
the forehead and hat.
CSHADING FACES
Faces do not need excessive
{a bright highight on top
fit
atACCESSORIZING HANDS
Hands are very expressive and oan
become a cramatic focal point in your
ilystration. Beauitifuly accessorized in
gloves, rings, and bracelets, hands can
be essential elements in the design and
styling of your model
‘Simple hand positions with attitude wl
help showcase the mood of the mode!
and the outft. Hands on a hip, waist,
‘or hanging down relaxed, are the most
common and practical positions. Every
finger should be sketched, gracetuly
bont at evar joint,SHOES
Designing and ilustrating shoes isFASHION DICTIONARY
NECESSARY BASICS
For many decades a tailored classic jacket,
‘whether single- or double-breasted, has been
SINGLE-BREASTED JACKET a staple of any women’s wardrobe. Shown,
bbeiow are variations of the basic fitted jacket
with varity of construction details,
DOUBLE-BREASTED JACI
ick stitch2
3
Q
Q
g
2
g
&