EAVING CALCULATION & USEFUL FORMULAS:
7.1. Count:
•
A number indicating the Mass per unit Length OR
•
The length per unit mass of Yarn.
•
Expression of thef in en ess of Yarn.
There are three Systems to Calculate Count -
1. Indirect System
2. Direct System
3. Universal System
1
Lea
=
120 yd
7
Leas
=
1 hank
1
Hank
=
840 yds. or 768 meter
1. Indirect system
Total No. of hanks per one pound is thecount of that yarn (Ne) i.e. if 10 hanks (10 x 840
yds. or 7680 meters) weighs one Pound or 0.454 Kg, then the Count of Yarn in indirect system
10s or 10Ne.
This System widely used for staple fiber spun yarns like 100% Cotton, Viscose,
Polyester fibers and their blends.
Higher the yarn Count i.e Ne the yarn is finer
2. Direct System
Count = Weight in grams per 9000 meters of yarn
In this system the yarn numbering is called as Denier (D)
Higher the yarn number i.e Denier the yarn is coarser.
3. Universal System
Count = No of grams per 1000 meters or per km of yarn.
In this system count is called asTex
Commonly used other numbering systems
I. Nf - French count: -
It is the No of 1000 meters length in ½ kg of yarn
II. Nm - Metric system: -
Count is the No of 1000 meters length per kg. of
yarn.
III. Worsted system: -
Count is the No. of 560 yards in one lbs.
IV. Linen system: -
It is the No. of leas of 300 yards per pound
V. Hemp, Jute, Flax: -
Count is the No of 14,400 yards length per pound of
yarn
Conversion System
English (Ne) to Denier (D)
- Denier
= 5315 / Ne
English (Ne) to Tex
- Tex
= 590.5 / Ne
French (Nf) to English (Ne)
- English (Ne)
= Nf x 1.181
7.2.
Twist per Inch or meter (TPI or TPM)
To give strength to the yarn, certain twist is given in the yarn.
TPI vary according to end use of yarn. More twist for warp yarns, medium twist
for weft yarns and less twist for hosiery yarns.
We calculate the twist as TPI or TPM.
Twist is given in ‘Z’ direction or ‘S’ direction.
If twist is given in CW direction it is ‘Z’ twist.
If it is given in CCW direction it is ‘S’ twist.
Single yarns are given ‘Z’ twist and double yarns are given ‘S’ twist.
Twist relation for double yarn TPI = 0.7 x Single yarn TPI
7.3.
Multi-filament Yarns
Multi-filament yarn are identified as 80/34/250, 80/34/0, 155/16/120
Here the first number denotes the Denier, second shows No. of filaments in the yarn
& the last indicate No. of Twist per meter.
7.4.
Winding Calculation
Slub – catcher settings:
a. Fixed Blade
=
Carded
-
(2.0 to 2.5) x Diameter
Combed
-
(1.5 to 2.0) x Diameter
b. Oscillating Blade
=
Smooth micro-set
-
25% more than above
Serrated Blade
=
100% more than the above
d. Electronic yarn clearer
=
3 cm x 3 Diameter
Diameter
=
inches
)
count
x
(28
1/
For Blended yarn
= 10 to 15% more settings
Yarn clearer efficiency
=
100
present
Faults
remved
Faults
×
Knot factor
=
faults
ble
objectiona
to
due
Breaks
of
No.
faults)
(at
winding
during
breaks
Total
Retained splice strength
=
yarn
parent
of
strength
100
joint
spliced
of
stength
×
Winding Tension
= 0.1 x Single strength in grams
Optimum spindles / winder N
=
1
S
y
4.8
+
×
OR
Expected efficiency
E
=
(
)
98
12
N
S
Y
4500
+
×
×
Expected production
P
=(
) C
98
12
13Y
×
+
/ Winder per 8 hrs. in kgs
Y = Length / Bobbin (meters.)
B = breaks per bobbin
S = Winding speed (meters./min)
C = English count
7.5. Warping Calculations:
Machine Efficiency
E=
S
R
100
R
+
×
R = Uninterrupted running Time for 1000 meters (sec) =
mtr/min
in
speed
Machine
60
1000×
S = total of time, in seconds for which the machine is stopped for a production of 1000
meters.
=
T4
C
L
T3
L
T2
400
T1
N
B
R
+
×
+
+
×
×
+
B = End breaks / 400 ends / 1000 meters
N = Number of ends.
L = Set Length in 1000 meters
C = Beams per creel.
Timing of activities in Seconds are
T1 = To mend a break
T2 = To change a beam
T3 = To change a Creel
T4 = Miscellaneous Time loss / 1000 mtrs.