, CY US, TTL TAT (Ry 33 ae LLL Yy yy MYTHE SYSTEM This pamphletiis designed to be used with the video tape on the same subject. These tapes are an expanded, more detailed version of our popular TV series, "The Do lt Yourself Show.” This pamphlet contains information covered in the tape, plus additional details. Together they comprise a complete do it yourself learning system. To get a good overview of this project, we recommend viewing the tape the first time in a relaxed atmosphere, View the tape a second time in greater detail, replaying any sections for an instant review when needed. Finally, view the tape a third time. To ensure complete compre- hension, stop the tape to review the corresponding section in the pamphlet, NOTES NOTES Woodworking 1 PAGE 1 Building BookcasesSAFETY SAFETY TIPS 1. Safety glasses or goggles should be worn whenever power tools are in use and when chiseling, sanding, Scraping orhammering overhead, Thisis very important if you wear contact lenses. 2. Wear ear protectors when using power tools. Some ‘operate at noise levels that damage hearing, 3. Be careful ofloose hair and clothing so thatit does not {get caught in tools. 4. The proper respirator or face mask should be worn wen sanding of Sawing or using substances with toxic fumes. 5. Keep blades sharp. A dull blade requires excessive force and can slip which causes accidents. 6. Always use the right tool for the job. 7. Repair or discard tools with cracks in the wooden handles or chips in the metal part. 8. Don't dril, shape or saw anything that isn’t firmly secured 9. Oily rags are spontaneously combustible, take care when you store and discard them, 40. Don't abuse your tools, 11, Keep a First Aid Kit on hand, 12. Do not work with tools when you are tired. That's when most accidents occur. 18, Read the owner's manual for all tools and know the proper use of each, 14. Keep tools out of reach of small children. 15. Unplug all power tools when changing settings or pars, 16. Be sure to review safety section at the end of the tape. Take special care in reviewing the tape regarding the use of the table saw fence settings, and the suggestions ‘on how to make cuts using safely guards, push sticks, push blocks, fence straddlers, and feather boards. KNOW WHERE YOUR HANDS ARE AT ALL TIMES! MOST COMMON MISTAKES ‘The single most common mistake in any do it yourself project is the failure to read and follow the manufac- turer's instructions for any tool or material being used. Other common mistakes include taking the safety measures that are laid out for a project for granted, and ppoor project planning, Here is a list of hints to success- fully complete a project and to do it safely. 1. Follow the “Golden Rule” of measuring: “Measure twice, cut once. 2. Provide yourself plenty of time for each step. 3. Understand your plan. (I you have questions, review that part of the videotape} 4, When finishing the wood, keep dust and dirt away from the bookcase. 5, Follow the application instructions for your choice of finish. 6, Allow an extra 1/4" to 1/8" inch when cutting the stock. 7. Experiment with scrap wood before you work on the real piece. This will help with finishing touches like the molding. 8. Be sure to use a dowel jig, horizontal boring machine or dowel centers to be sure that dowel holes are aligned, 9. Tobe sure shelf will be level, mark both sides at once: when laying out for the dado cuts. 10. Be sure face frame is flush with the plywood sides before nailing 11. Assemble entire face frame before attaching to the plywood. 12. Use a drilling jig to be sure holes are aligned so adjustable shelves will be level 13, Donot fil countersunk nail holes until after the stain has been applied. This assures a better color match. 14, Use plywood width slightly less 16" so that you can get three pieces from a 48" sheet NOTES Woodworking 1 PAGE 2 Building BookcasesPROJECT INTRODUCTION OVERVIEW Everyone enjoys the look and feel of fine wood furniture. has a warmth and elegance that enhances every home. With the prices of quality wood furniture increas- ing, many do it yourselfers are making there own custom Pieces. In this pamphlet we are going to show you the correct way to build a lovely bookcase in your own workshop. We will take you through step by step, from initial planning to the finished product. As you build this project, remember, every new skill and technique you learn building this bookcase can be carried over into ‘other wood working projects, PLANNING Review the tape and pamphlet thoroughly before pro- ceeding with this project. Go through the tools and materials check-lst and study your plans careully. Know the safety standards for the project. Before you begin. pian to gather the items that you willbe using, and place them where you will build the bookcase. You will find an extensive list of tools and materials necessary to build your bookcase in the tools and materials checklist, but let's simpliy things a litle and look atthe basic components you will be working with to build your bookcase. ‘The plan shown here is similar to the bookcase that is built during the video. You may follow this plan or use ‘one of your own, NOTES Woodworking | PAGE 3 Building BookcasesBASIC BOOKCASE COMPONENTS MATERIALS Ultra-Veneer Plywood with an Oak Finish Movable shelves, Crown Molding Door Oak face framing In addition to your regular tools, The WOOD WORKING TOOLS necessary for this project are: Table Saw Dado Set Doweling Jig ‘Shaper or Router It really is a simple project, when you divide it into manageable components! TERMINOLOGY Betore you begin your project, you will want to become familiar with the wood working terms shown below. Miter Cut - Angle cut across the width or thickness of the board Rabbet- L-shaped cut Dado - Channel cut across the board, into which ‘a second piece of wood is fitted Kert - Width of the blade Countersink - To set a screw head at or below the surface Dowel- Wooden pin used to provide strength and alignment Chamter- Comer ofa board beveled ata 45 degree angle ‘AA Lumber - Lumber which has a wood finish on both sides. Because of the size of the lumber involved in this project, you need an extra person to help with cutting some of the wood, Plan ahead so your “Assistant is available al the appropriate times. WOOD SELECTION Before you purchase your wood and select a finish for your book case, you should ask yourself some simple Questions about how you plan to use and display it in your home. Where will the bookcase be located? Do the dimensions of the bookcase fit properly in the space you have allowed for it? What will be placed on the shelves; does the shelving require a water-resistant finish? *NOTE: Because this bookcase will be pushed flush with the wall, this bookcase has no back, allowing the natural surface of the wood behind it to show through. ‘You may decide to add the back depending on how you intend to use your bookcase. The two basic categories of wood used most often in wood working projects are hardwood and softwood, Hardwood is more durable and less prone to dents and scratches. It is also more expensive but will finish to a better advantage. Soft woods, lke pine, are more prone. to dents and scratches and do not have the durability of hardwood. Softwoods are much less expensive and easier to find. Ask your lumber supplier to show you “Class 1” or "Select Grade” lumber. Make sure it is, properly dried, straight, and free of knots and defects. (it may be impossible to be completely free of defects but bbe sure you understand how to cut around these.] The selection of wood in the videotape is AA Ultra- Veneer Plywood with thin layers of solid oak on its surface. This type of wood was selected because it holds its shape, is strong and durable, and has an easy to work with flat surface (free of knots]. The solid oak surface on both sides provides for a lovely wood look Face frames of solid oak will be used to cover the plywood when necessary. NOTES Woodworking 1 PAGE 4 Building BookcasesPlywood is recommended in this project as individual boards would have considerable movement depend- ing on climate conditions for this size of a bookcase ‘Ask your lumber supplier for assistance when purcha- sing your wood, Similar to laying a pattern out on apiece of cloth, often you can cut several different pieces of the same thickness of wood out ofa single piece. Itis a good idea to add up the total number of board feet, being careful to make sure you group short pieces in a board with long pieces to minimize waste. A STEP BY STEP APPROACH ‘The steps to follow in making this bookcase are: 1. Layout, measuring and cutting the carcass/ shell 2. Measuring and making the Dado and rabbet cuts in side panels. 3. Driling holes for brackets and dado cuts Assembling and gluing the carcass Making face frame Attaching face frame Making and attaching the molding for shelves, Making and affixing the door Finishing touches A. Sanding 8. Filler C. Applying the finish STEP 1: LAYOUT AND MEASURING THE CARCASS/SHELL *Have your assistant ready during this step.*** Begin the bookcase by cutting the 4" x 8" plywood (GOOD SIDE UP} 0 size. (1) Rip (a cut WITH THE GRAIN) plywood lengthwise with the grain into strips slightly less than 16" wide. By making your cuts 15 7/8" cuts instead of 16" cuts you can get three pieces from one 48" piece. Cut on the sorap side of the wood to allow for the width of the saw blade called a kerf (approximately 1/16"). For both accuracy and safety, Keep eyes on the fence notthe saw blade. The person "Catching" the wood asitcomes trom the saw should suppor the wood only. Do not pul the wood or the cut will not be even, (2) Crosscut (a cut AGAINST THE GRAIN) plywood to length as specified in the plans. Making multiple cuts of identical size like those necessary for the shelves can be difficult The technique demonstrated in the video- tape using a miter gauge and the rip fence with a stop block as a measuring tool, is a real timesaver when making muttiple cuts. NOTES NOTES Woodworking 1 PAGE 5 Building BookcasesSTEP 2: MEASURING AND MAKING THE DADO AND RABBET CUTS IN SIDE PANELS A. MAKING THE DADO AND RABBET CUTS WITH A ROUTER, BOTH SIDES. STRAIGHT EDGE CUTTING DADO WITH A ROUTER ‘To measure and cut the carcass’shell, mark and make the dado cuts in the side panels to support the top, bottom and fixed shelves. A router is the best tool to use ‘on long pieces, as long pieces of plywood can be hardto handle on a table saw. (1), Mark the position ofthe dados on the two side panels. of the carcass. Check the measurements twice. Use a straight edge and clamp the boards down to make an even, straight cut. (2) Clamp the straight edge to the sides in such a way that it's running exactly parallel to the sides. When the router bitcuts the wood, the cut willbe exactly where you have laid out your dado cuts. (3) Insert a bit into the router that will make a 3/4” straight slot or a dado (use a different bitf you are not using 3/4" plywood as shelves) (4) Run the router along the straight edge and across both pieces of plywood. Be sure the router has reached {ull speed before entering the wood. B. MAKING THE DADO CUTS WITH A TABLE SAW AND DADO BLADES (1) Install the dado blades after unplugging the saw. Note: You may needto stack and shim your dado blades to get the specified thickness. Check the plans for the specified depth and thickness of all your dado and rabbet cuts. Make the cuts on the inside leaving the best finish on the outside. (2) Set the rip fence to the edge of the board so it will uide the board precisely. (3) Crosscut your dados with one edge flat against your miter gauge, being careful not to split the veneer. You ‘can use your rip fence with a stop block attached to itto give you multiple cuts made exactly at the same place on different boards. Always use this stop block and ever use the miter gauge and rip fence at the same time, or the wood can bind creating a safety hazard, NOTES Woodworking 1 PAGE 6 Building BookcasesSTEP 3: DRILLING HOLES FOR BRACKETS AND DADO CUTS ‘Adjustable shelves are easy to make and are a wonder- {ul addition to your bookcase. Because the shelves may hold large number of books, extra support is needed, ‘There are many ways to support shelves; the plans for this project use plastic shelf brackets for added strength. SHELF BRACKETS <<“ vowets (1) Drill holes in the right side of your bookcase and on the shelf dividers. The holes are two inches from the front and back edge and two inch intervals up and down. ‘A doweling jig makes this process simple and can be made with two scrap pieces of wood. To make a doweling jig, drill six or seven holes using a ruler and pencil to make accurate marks, Drill the holes on the jig, and make your first hole on the right side of your bookcase, then insert a dowel to hold it in place and make the rest of the holes using the doweling jig as a mark. Ifthe shelves will be supporting a heavy load you should add a third dowel in the center (2) Repeat the same process on the left side of the bookcase. Be certain that the first guide hole is aligned exactly with the guide hole on the ather side. NOTES NOTES Woodworking 1 PAGE 7 Building BookcasesSTEP 4: ASSEMBLING AND GLUING THE CARCASS (1) The pieces of the bookcase must be assembled DRY prior to gluing to make sure everything fits together properly. Use a framing square to draw a line on the outside of the plywood for each dado joint so when finishing nails are used they will penetrate the shelves. ‘and not be visible on the inside. Also itis a good idea to do any major sanding at this stage, Before the unit is, assembled the pieces can be laid on a work bench for ‘an easier sanding job. After assembling, you will inish- ‘sand the unit, Remember, the assembly procedure must begin from the INSIDE OUT. (2) Reassemble using wood glue. Apply the glue evenly ‘on both sides of oint. Letthe two pieces soak up the glue for about § minutes, then apply more. (3) Clamp the joints and let the glue dry.(Leave the adjustable shelves out for now.} Use small wood blocks, ‘or clamp covers so that clamps will not mar the wood, (4) Use finishing nails and nail all the joints. Be careful not to mark or dent the unit when you hammer in the nails. If you do dent the unit, take a damp rag and steam iron and steam the dent for a few minutes til the dent is raised. Leave the finishing nails protruding slightly above surface of the wood. Once every thing is dry, use a nail set and counter sink these below the surface. (6) To check for squareness, measure from corner to Corner. It is square if the two measurements are the same, Nail a temporary brace diagonally across the unit to keep it square and stable. Leave the nails protruding slightly from this brace for easy removal. STEP 5: MAKING THE FACE FRAME First build the face frame and attach itto the unit. Never build it on the unit. (1) Smooth and square the edges by running the face frame pieces lightly over a jointer. Be careful not to take off more then 1/32-1/16". Once you have one straight and square edge, set your rip fence forthe desired width and rip the stock. (2) Rip the boards tothe width specifiedin the plans. Cut the larger pieces for the left side, right side, top and bottom, but do not cut the narrower 374" molding strips yet. Have your assistant available to make the cuts, and Use a fence straddler or 2 feather boards. DOWEL JIG (3) Dowel the face frame together wherever 2 pieces Intersect to strengthen the joints. Use the horizontal boring tool on your multipurpose saw, or a hand drill and a doweling jig. The jig ensures alignment and makes sure that the boards are straight. Lay out the face frame ‘and mark the joints, Mark across both pieces so they will line up just right. These marks will also line up the dowel jig. To make sure you drill the dowel holes deep enough butnottoo deep, use a depth gauge or wrap tape around your drill bit o make a depth gauge. NOTES Woodworking 1 PAGE 8 Building BookcasesHORIZONTAL BORING TOOL (4) Measuring carefully, line up the dowel jg along the marks and dril 5/16" holes to allow for glue. (5) Dril the dowel holes 1/4" deeper than one-half the length ofthe dowels (6) Repeat the process for each end of the top and bottom pieces. (7) Glue the dowels and the edges of the outer frame pieces together. (8) Glue and clamp the face frame pieces and allow them to dry for an hour. Use scraps of wood when you clamp to protect the surface of the bookcase from being marked STEP 6: ATTACHING THE FACE FRAME To attach the face frame to the bookcase follow the steps outlined below. (1) Glue the raw edges of the shelves, then position the frame in place with clamps. Be sure itines up along all its edges. Some overlap can be sanded out after itis installed. (2) Drilipilot holes in the frame, or use a nails spinner so the solid oak will not split when you hammer in small finishing nails, (3) Hammer in the finishing nails. STEP 7: MAKING AND ATTACHING THE MOLDING AND SHELVES. ‘The molding customizes your bookcase and puts your personal stamp oni. The crown molding looks complex, butis really one pieceof wood cut into two pieces. Take your time and make accurate cuts, (1) Use a shaper or a multipurpose tool and cutter, design the style of molding you would like. Experiment fon scrap wood for practice. NOTES Woodworking 1 PAGE 9 Building BookcasesTOP VIEW EDGE STRIP CHAMFERED EDGE EDGE STAIP- {2) Create a crown molding forthe top of the bookcase by shaping one or both edges of a wide piece of the stock with a bead and covet cutter on your shaper or a router. (3) Rip the pieces on your table saw to the widths required. Ripping is done alter shaping because it is safer to shape with wide pieces (4) Cut 45 degree bevels on the front comers of the molding, measuring carefully. For every miter cut, add the width of the stock to the length for a perfect ft {EXAMPLE: A 44" wide bookcase with 2 miter cuts on 3/4" stock requires that 3/4" + 3/4" (1 1/2") be added to the length for a total length of 45 1/2" (44+ 1 1/2") itis. a good idea to clamp each 3 piece in place atthe top ofthe bookcase and check the bevel cuts. Once you are sure the cuts are accurate, dil pilot holes and nail with finishing nails. (5) Lay the 1" pieces on top ofthe 3" Strips to mark them sothey will continue the 45 degree angle. Allow for extra length on the ends of boards with no miter cuts; hese boards can be cut for a belter after the boards with mitered ends are cut to fit and joined. (6) For the molding on the edge ofthe shelves, measure the shelf lengths and cut the molding to ft. Chamfer the ledges where the edges meet other rounded edges. (7) Drillpiotholes then nail your finished molding on the front of the shelves. Inset all your finishing nails with a punch, then cover the *~'=> with wood patch that has been mixed with stain, you have stained the unit, STEP 8: MAKING AND AFFIXING THE DOOR ‘The techniques used the bookcase’s door are similar to the face frame for the bookcase described earlier. The stiles and rails must be rounded slightly. A rabbet cut ‘must be placed on the back of the frame for attachment of the plywood panel. The doors vertical stiles and horizontal rails can be made on the shaper with a Sash and Door Cutter Kit, Use the cutter in different combina- tions and positions on the inside of the railsand stiles, and on the ends of the rails, (1) Use the quarter round cutter to round the outer ledges of the siiles and rail pieces on the front side only. (Mastering the use of a cutter takes some practice, so ‘experiment on some scraps first) (2) Dowel the joints together as you did with the face frame and glue and clamp the door frame together. (3) Slide a 1/4" oak plywood panel into the frame pleces. (4) Add the door hinges and attach door to the book- case. Be sure to use the appropriate hinges and make Certain the door is hung straight. STEP 9: FINISHING TOUCHES ‘A. SANDING ‘The best time to do any major sanding is BEFORE the main pieces are attached. Sandpaper is graded as ‘medium, or numbers 60, 80, and 100. Fine sandpaper numbers are 150, 180, and very fine 220, 240, and 280. Medium is usually used for the first sanding, fine for smoother results and very fine for smoothing finishes between coats. Sandpaper can be used wet for some finishes, ‘You can fillin nail holes with a wood putty before sanding if you are not planning to stain the wood. If you are staining, fil he holes after the stain is applied. in either case match the wood putty closely in color to the stock or use saw dust and wood make your own putty. NOTES Woodworking 1 PAGE 10 Building Bookcases(1) Sand with a fine, wet sandpaper (start with a 120 grt fn plywood and 60-80 grit on other lumber) wrapped around a felt pad or use a pad or orbital sander. Use aluminum oxide sandpaper because its grit material lasts longer. (2) Sand slowly so you don't go through the veneer and vacuum frequently to remove dust. Finish manufactur- ers recommend which grit of sandpaper to use with their specific finishes to achieve the smoothest result. Feel the wood to check on the smoothness as you work, touch is the only way to get a smooth surface. Make sure that you remove all dust, fingermarks and excess glue before applying the finish . First vacuum or brush the bookcase clean, then wipe with a tack cloth. ‘When itis time to varnish, vacuum the room and let the remaining dust settle for atleast 24 hours, Wear lint free clothes and use the fastest drying varnish available. Use a tack rag to remove dust before applying varnish and between coats. Do not apply urethane varnish over a coat of shellac or lacquer. B. APPLYING FILLER (Optional) ‘The key to a beautiful finish is making sure the surface is ‘as smooth as possible. (1) Countersink all nails and repair all dents. (2) Apply a coat of filler to all surfaces of the bookcase. {Paste wood filler, thinned with turpentine or paint thinner is best Filler isa compound mixedito the consistency of yogurt, which fills all the pores of the wood for a ‘smoother finish. Do not use the wood filler that is sold to repair rotted wood. Work the filler into the wood instead of just brushing it on. A short-bristled brush is best, and. ‘can be made from an old paint brush. Using the filler gives your bookcase that “Extra” touch of beauty by providing a smootherfinish. You can color the filler f you like after thinning for a perfect match of wood and filler. (3) Brush the filler on with the grain of the wood, making sure the pores are filled. (4) Wipe off the first coat of filler. Recoat, this time ‘working actoss the grain, Make sure the brush is heavily loaded with filer. (6) The instant the shiny wet surface looks dull, start ‘scrapping off excess filler with a straight, sharp edge implement like a playing card, ruler, stif cardboard or knife with a wide blade (like the knife used to apply drywall, (6) Use arough cloth ike burlapto rub briskly acrossthe grain (7) Once the surface is as clean of excess filler as Possible, let it dry overnight. If you are using a wood with {an open grain, you may need two or three coats. C. APPLYING THE FINISH Your handcrafted bookcase is a personal source of pride and you will want to select a finish which shows it ff to its best advantage. Here are some suggestions to consider when you chooseyour finish, 1. Appearance: do you want a clear finish are do you want a stain to blend with the other pieces in your home, Do you preter a high gloss or satin look? 2. Texture: do you want the table to appear smooth and slick or do you want to feel the wood's grain? 3. Durability and protection: how is this piece going to be used, and what are you going to set on it? Do you Reed minimum protection from water marks and scratches? 4. Ease of application: how do you want to apply the finish? Will you be using arag, brush, or spray? Why not visit an unfinished furniture store and talk to the staff about your needs. Look at their finishes and don't hesitate to bring a part of your project or a sample of a finish you may be trying to match. Try any finish you are considering on a scrap piece of wood that has been smoothed down to your bookcase’s finish, Youcansave a lot of heartache by taking this time to check before applying a finish that doesn't work. ‘Apply your finish in a well ventilated space with lols of room. Cover the floor in the area that you will applying the finish so that if a spill occurs it will not leave a permanent stain. Follow the manufacturer's instructions, ‘The finish is the first thing you and your friends will Rotice, so take your time, NOTES Woodworking 1 PAGE 11 Building BookcasesAnother finish that can be used is an oil finish, The advantage of the oil finish is that after the first coat a fine gritot sandpaper can be used when wet (220) to cause a slurry of dust particles and oll, This mixture is continually absorbed into the wood with each coat. Each coat builds up a very durable surface with a hand-rubbed look. ‘Some refinishers use a sanding sealer, which makes a light fuzz stif so that it can be sanded off. Test to make sure that a sealer will not adversely affect the finish by applying to the underside of a shelf and then applying the stain to see if it goes on smoothly. It you are using a brush, follow these suggestions, 1) Position the piece in horizontal sections. 2) Apply the finish, varnish or stain across the grain. 3) Brush out the paint with the grain, using the brush as a wiping tool. Clean the brush as it collects liquid 4) Pull the brush across the unit's surface with the bristles held almost vertically. 5) Let each side dry between coats, Check the varnish to see if a certain stain is called for. Read the label for drying times and how many coats to apply. Apply two, preferably three coats of urethane varnish using a good quality natural bristle brush, Between coats wet sand the finish, Rub the surface til it feels smooth, Wipe off any residue and then apply the next coat, Be careful at the edges of the bookcase so varnish doesn't drip or run down the sides. For the final touch, rub down the bookcase using a thin paste of rottenstone. Let the finish dry for a week before buffing with a hard paste wax or lambswool pad, ‘Completing this project gives you a beautiful addition to your home. itis an expression of craftsmanship you and. ‘your family will be proud of. Take care of your bookcase because for years to come it will take care of you, NOTES EXPLODED VIEW OF A DOOR Woodworking | PAGE 12 Building BookcasesTOOLS AND MATERIALS CHECKLIST TOOLS: (other than common shop tools) 1, Table Saw and accessories, 2, Jointer (optional) 3. Drill Press; or a Drill or horizontal borer 4. Cordless screwdriver 5. Router or Shaper 6. Pad sander 7. Clamps for gluing 8. Planer (optional) 9. Dowel center (optional) 10. Doweting Jig 11. Dado Set 12, Router Bits or Dado Bits MATERIALS Dowels 4 doz. 2 finishing nails 1 doz. Dowels’ Plastic shelf brackets 2 Cabinet door hinges w/screws 2 Pieces of oak plywood Stock for the face frames and edging strips 1/4 plywood for door pane! Finishing products, Tack Cloth COPYRIGHT DW VIDEO CORPORATION 967 NOTES Woodworking | PAGE 13 Building Bookcases