Modelling the hull, continued

3 THE SULTAN DHOW: STEP BY STEP

22
22

1.5x5mm 1.5x5mm

3 Starting with a medium-grain file, then smoothing off with a fine-grain one, round off the structure to remove any rough edges from the frames and
strengtheners until you have a definite curve: this will allow the hull to fit securely. You can also use a mini-drill with the sander accessory to remove
sharp edges, especially on the stern and bow. Use a batten 22, placing it at different heights both on the bow and on the stern to ensure that it fits
perfectly with the curvature of the hull.

Initial hull plating

4
17

1.5mm

22

1.5x5mm

17
22

22 Wedges
22

4 Pay particular attention to filing the stern of the vertical keel, which should be approximately 1.5mm thick. With the 1.5x5mm light basswood
battens 22, begin the initial plating of the hull. We advise dampening the battens in water at one end so that they bend around the ships bow.
An alternative is to use the plank bender from Artesana Latina. Use white glue to stick them in position and then pin them securely along each of
the frames. Do not use nail tips or nails for these first two battens as they may split a frame. Use nails 17 for the remaining ones.
 Initial hull plating, continued
4

4 THE SULTAN DHOW: STEP BY STEP

22 22

22

Stem, keel and sternpost

5 24 4x6mm

25
23

24

23
25 24
25

23

5 Once the entire hull is covered with the first plating battens 22, sand down and polish the whole surface with fine-grain sandpaper until smooth. Fit
and then glue, one after the other, the stem 23 and the keel 24, inside the groove. No groove is necessary for the sternpost 25, which is glued onto
the plates on the initial plating.
 Second plating on the hull and sanding down
6

5 THE SULTAN DHOW: STEP BY STEP

26


20mm


20mm

 


15mm


26
26
0.6x5mm

27
27

0.6x5mm

27

26 Wedges

27

6 To conceal any faults and to obtain a better finish on the hull, proceed to the hulls second and final plating. For the second plating, use a brush to
apply a fine layer of contact glue on the two pieces to be joined, starting at the top with the 0.6x5mm light basswood battens 26, continuing with
dark 0.6x5mm sapele battens 27. The small gaps left in the stern can be filled in with small wedges. Gently sand down the entire hull with very
fine-grain sandpaper.
 Bulwatk lining and modelling of upper part
7

6 THE SULTAN DHOW: STEP BY STEP

8
7
6

26

0.6x5mm

26
26
0.6x5mm
0.6x5mm

7 Cut the upper part of the frames 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12 and 13, leaving them level with the decks. Sand down the interior part of the bulwarks
and line it with the 0.6x5mm basswood battens 26. Sand the upper part of the bulwarks, taking special care with the curves to be made both on the
bow and stern of the ship (arrows and broken red lines in the photos).
 Planting on decks
8

7 THE SULTAN DHOW: STEP BY STEP

30
30 20 16

26
26 0.6x5mm

1x4mm

5mm diam

21

30 18 1x4mm
30 30
30 4mm diam

1x4mm
1x4mm
19

5mm diam

8 With the basswood battens 26, line the side walls and floor of the small central deck 21 where the two holes for the mainmast are located. With the
basswood 1x4mm battens 30, line the floor of the main deck 16 and bow deck 20, starting from the amidships line (broken red lines) and working
towards both sides. Clear away the central gap where the two holes for the mainmast are to be located before covering it completely. In the same way
and with the same battens 30, line the stern bulkhead 19 and the stern deck 18. Then, with fine-grain sanding paper, sand down the whole deck surface.