The PennilessCatlovers
Publisher: Josie Marrero
Newsletter
Volume No. 1
An Kitten Season
Informational
Newsletter
LowThis
Cost Vet care and theAnother
Welcome! newsletter
contains useful information to
help you with Feral Cats, Stray
Cats, Lost Cats and much more –
one topic at a time. Currently,
Trap/Neuter/Return (TNR) is The
only Humane Solution to our Feral
Cat problem on the table so far.
I live in this neighborhood and
often I hear the cat fights; mating
drama and kittens crying when
they’re only 7 weeks old and
suddenly on their own. I hear
when the older cats cross paths
with them and the kitten screams
fill the air - welcome to your adult
life as a Feral.
We all feel the helplessness when
we come across a thrown away
cat or kitten that starved to
death, died of heat or cold, or
didn’t understand the rules for
crossing the street and paid the
price with its life. In the winter
they get trapped in your car
hoods trying to keep warm.
Starting your car without
thumping on the hood is their
death sentence.
Some people in the community
feed these cats, trap them, take
them to the vet for spay/neuter
and return them to the site
because the cats are not
adoptable. This is TNR at its
finest. Do you know that some of
these cats were once someone’s
pet? Look carefully, one of them
may have belonged to your
neighbor before they moved and
left the cat behind. Did the cat
get spayed or do they just let her
come and go and have kittens
that become feral cats?
Issue No. 1 Date: August, 2010
2010:
Are
with Some You Ready
Resources for This?
for Spay/Neuter;
latest on may
Rescue HAVE YOU SEEN
beNews as that
a cat it relates to our community!
someone feels
FERAL CATS IN
it’s ok to let roam the neighborhood. One
THE
day a feral cat protecting territory may
NEIGHBORHOOD
chase that cat out of the neighborhood
and you’ll never see that cat again. In Just a bowl
another neighborhood hopefully people of water
doing TNR will help that cat to survive and during the
find it a home. hot summer
months is
There are some in our neighborhood who an act of
have been doing TNR for many years. But kindness
some people just want the cats out of their that costs
backyards while others think it’s Natural you nothing
for the cat to live outside. The natural life
style of cats is never going to be found in
our cities and a cat that was once a pet Read, “Coccidia
and is thrown out into a forest, wilderness and Kittens”
or recreation area is going to DIE because See why Getting
it has no Instincts for Hunting. a Stool check is
very important for
These animals will die slowly die from your pet!
infected wounds due to fights, cancers and
whatever stray cats die of - our children
can see what a lack of humanity looks like.
Once our children accept that it’s ok to
ignore suffering of animals, they make the
connection in their minds that it’s ok to
accept the suffering of people while doing
nothing to help. Doing Nothing has
become a Social Disease.
Michael’s owner died and he was turned out into the
street in December 2009. Michael didn’t know
anything about fighting and the Feral Cats chased him
out of the area. He lost one eye and had a horrible
infection in his bitten paw. Michael would have died
in the streets if a kind woman in Queens hadn’t helped
him.
Michael is now in Brooklyn and looking for a good
home that he can grow old in. Michael is part Angora.
He has a Fluffy Grey Tail that looks like a plume of
smoke and silky fur.
He sleeps on the floor next to my bed – like a Dog.
Contact: hissandspit@ymail.com
or call 347-586-1901
if you’re interested in adopting Michael.
Kitten Season 2010: Are You Ready for This? (cont’d)
There are plenty of charlatans who
will charge you to remove the cats
from your property but they are not One of the bottle fed kittens
doing TNR. They will do the from outside:
miserable mean thing and take the
This is Ducky. Born under
cat to the CACC where it will be some bushes behind the
Killed. You will have paid someone KingsHighway Bakery he is
to do your dirty work for you. spunky, loveable and so playful.
People who do this work with His brother & Sister are each a
Heart struggle to perform a service beautiful steel gray color – one
that is expensive and has no Remember that old has white mittens!
payback for them in any way and it dumpster behind the
There are Five more for
takes up all their money and time. Bingo parlor? People adoption. All tested, vaccinated.
We can help make their work a used to find cats there all
the time: breeding; Just be sure you can make a
little bit more successful – a
nursing litters of kittens lifetime commitment to these
Win/Win situation just by little survivors.
cooperating with them. These are and sometimes just
the people who live in the waiting for the garbage Contact:
community and are there 24/7 and man to pick up their hissandspit@ymail.com or call
who have made a real commitment lifeless bodies. The site 347-586-1901
to the cats and to monitor their was an oasis for mice and
health in their colonies. the cats knew it.
These are people using their own Even before the
disability money, their own tiny dumpster was removed
pensions and whatever they the cats were being
deprive themselves of in little ways trapped, neutered/spayed
(like groceries and luxuries) so that and some (the obvious
they make a positive difference in throwaways) were being
our area. They see something that adopted out. It was a
needs to be done and are applying frustrating, seemingly
a Humane solution. never ending job and by
sticking to it, the
Individual Rescuers in our
neighborhoods made
some headway.

Rescued Cats &

Kittens for Adoption
Help Save a Life – Join us in Rescue
Call (347) 586-1901
or Email: hissandspit@ymail.com
for an adoption application.
 HAVE YOU SEEN FERAL CATS IN THE NEIGHBORHOOD?
Are you feeding the cats, but not fixing them? If so, you are adding to their misery by helping
them breed. Be a CAREGIVER, not just a FEEDER!
Team up with Local Rescuers and the ASPCA® to solve the problem.
THE PROBLEM

An estimated 100 million feral cats roam the streets of the United States. The neighborhoods of New York City
are home to over 800,000. Too wild to be adopted, these cats make their homes on the streets. They
breed very rapidly . . . a pair of cats can produce 2 or more litters per year, which can ultimately result in
400,000 cats in 7 years!!!
THE SOLUTION

DO NOT Remove the Cats! DO Trap-Neuter-Return (TNR)

Because cats congregate around food
sources, if you remove a group of cats, a TNR is the only universally recognized humane
new group will move in and start to multiply. method of controlling the growth of the feral
cat population. It entails trapping all the cats
DO NOT Poison the Cats! in a colony, spaying & neutering them,
Poisoning is cruel and inhumane. It is also adopting out the kittens and friendly cats, then
ineffective (for the reason mentioned returning the wild adults to their territory and
above), illegal in New York, and providing them with food and shelter.
punishable by a fine and/or jail.
Stabilizing the population by spaying and
DO NOT Just Feed the Cats! neutering is what keeps new cats away!
Feeding stray cats without
spaying/neutering them only perpetuates
the overpopulation problem.

TNR BENEFITS THE CATS & THE COMMUNITY

WANT TO BE PART OF THE SOLUTION?

1) E-mail listed TNR Resources for TNR service requests

2) We are volunteers and require donations for TNR services
3) TNR assistance applies to Feral /Stray cats. Please do not ask us to Spay/Neuter
your pets.
4) House pets should be spayed/neutered at a private veterinarian
Pricing for supplemental mobile clinic services*
Revolution for Cats & Kittens $10 per dose
Frontline for Cats & Kittens $10 per dose
SNAP FeLV/FIV Combo Test $25 per test
FVRCP $5 per vaccine
Interceptor Tablets, 1.5-6lb cats $5 per tablet
Interceptor Tablets, 6.1-25lbs cats $9 per tablet
Clavamox Drops $10 per bottle
Clavamox Tablets $2 per tablet
Triple Antibiotic Ophthalmic Ointment $6 per tube
Strongid $5 per dose
Microchips $20 per chip
 I Just Found a Kitten What Do I Do Now?
Rescue groups are overloaded
The ASPCA/CACC can only hold strays for a limited amount of time before killing them
You must come out of your comfort zone. YOU WILL GROW as a person for the experience! It’s
good for your self esteem as you learn to be more self reliant too. This cat is in your hands and
you can do all of the work that a rescuer does, please, accept the challenge.
What can YOU do? Unfortunately, 90% of the kitties are
strays/abandoned, but you never know!
After LOOKING FOR THE OWNERS:
If anyone calls to claim the cat – get
• putting up flyers proof of ownership or the cat may be on
its way to a lab or worse. Check with
• posting on Craigslist your vet to see if the cat is micro
• calling the ACC to ask whether chipped.
anyone has reported a lost cat
ISOLATE THE CAT IN A CAGE OR IN YOUR BATHROOM
1. Get a litter box The cat will not need more than this and
2. cat food (canned & dry) it will be comfortable
3. Litter
4. water bowls
Once the work of fostering/testing/ Be sure to research groups; rescuers;
vaccinations/spay/neuter is done you'll organizations to be sure they are
have a greater chance of having the legitimate: NOTE: Do not let any cat
rescue groups take the cat or kittens mix with yours until he/she has been
from you. tested and vaccinated!!!! This is VERY
Important as Fleas, Coccidia, Ringworm.
Distemper and other opportunistic
parasites can infect your healthy cat.
The Isolation Period will save you from
that headache/heartache.
ONCE THE CAT IS READY FOR
ADOPTION, THE RESCUE GROUPS
WILL NOW MOST LIKELY TAKE THE
CAT. IF A RESCUE ORGANIZATION
TAKES THE CAT FROM YOU BE PREPARED
TO PAY AN INTAKE FEE AS WELL AS
PROVIDE THE PAPERWORK THAT SHOWS
THAT THE ANIMAL IS UP TO DATE ON
TESTING AND SHOTS AND
SPAY/NEUTERING.
 If the cat is shy or feral it will need to learn to trust you:
This is how I Socialize Feral Kittens, use it for the scared
cat
1. Every time you go to the
bathroom, talk to /her, pet /her (or
at least try to touch him/her) and
talk to him /her so he begins to
accept the human voice.
Touching should be limited to
under the chin and top of head.

2. Find a treat he loves and offer it to

him/her from your hand. If he
Acceptable treats: bloody roast beef
refuses to take it from your hand -
(Pisa has the best); chicken; tuna (Tuna
the first time and only the first
is used strictly for trapping or for this
time - put it on the floor for
phase of domestication – it really isn’t
him/her so he sees how good it is.
good for the cat so LIMIT it please.)
Thereafter let him/her take it only
if he takes it from your hand.
3. Once he begins to welcome you to the bathroom be sure to pet him/her and
talk softly to him/her.
4. Start getting him/her up on your 5. Now get him used to being
lap with the treat process stroked from head to tail

6. Once this is done and he begins to be more receptive of your company you
can decide if it's time to let him/her out of the bathroom.
When you let him/her out of the
bathroom:
Do much of the same to keep him/her
Don’t give cats anything with spices or
used to you when he's mixed with your
salt. This is a way they get crystals and
other pets. Give him/her treats less
a blocked urinary tract.
often. At this point he/she should be lots
friendlier to you.
I wish you the best of luck - this process has worked for me
and if you’re consistent it will also work for you.
I trapped two brothers in my alleyway. They were both scared and feral, now they
are lap hogs!
If you’ve adopted a Feral kitten that was misrepresented as shy and you can’t go through this
Socializing process RETURN THE KITTEN AND RAISE A STINK IN THE MIDDLE OF THEIR
ADOPTIONS UNTIL YOU GET YOUR MONEY BACK! Let others know about your negative experience
with the organization through http://fabulous_cat.livejoural.com or file a complaint with Consumer
Affairs; Better Business Bureau and the Attorney General’s Office.
How to file a complaint
Charities Fraud
212 416 8490
Office of the Attorney General
Charities Bureau
120 Broadway
New York, NY 10271
Fax: 212 416 8393
 Bottle Feeding Found Kittens (2 Articles)
It’s Kitten Season and Because Trap/Neuter/Return (TNR) is still not up and running in our neighborhood
you may find kittens from 1 day to 1 week old in your yards.
There are important first steps to take IMMEDIATELY.
1. Are you sure the mother is not around? This may be the last kitten in the litter that she has to move
to a new location. If the kitten looks orphaned:
2. With a warm wet washcloth stimulate the kitten. Do what the mother would do: She would lick its
face, tummy and tushy.
3. Keep it warm
4. If it looks like it is in bad shape, give it a few drops of Karo Syrup or honey to bring it’s glucose levels
up.
5. Get a very small can of KMR and a Large can of Powdered KMR
6. Keep the kitten away from any other cats in your home.
Get a large box and line it with towels so the kitten can snuggle into them to keep warm.
7. Until you find a foster or until the kitten starts eating on its own at about 6 weeks of age
YOU are now the Kitten’s mother.
I am repeating: - The kitten will rely on you to Stimulate it the way it’s mother would. Mother cats
use their rough tongue to lick the kitten’s anus and genital area to get them to urinate and defecate.
Use a warm, moist wash cloth or paper towel.
- After eating the mother cat licks the kitten’s face to clean it. You must do this with a warm, moist
washcloth or paper towels.
- IMPORTANT: When You bottle feed the kittens DO NOT TURN THEM ON THEIR BACK. THESE
ARE NOT HUMAN BABYS AND YOU WILL ASPIRATE THEM (THE MILK WILL GO INTO THEIR
LUNGS AND DROWN THEM).
- Let them take the milk in at their own pace. DON’T squeeze the bottle to get them to take in more
milk.
- Hold the kitten on its stomach as it would feed if it had the mother cat’s nipples.
- Eventually, after 7 weeks you can start weaning the kitten to eat solid food.
WEANING:
Start with canned kitten food.
Add enough water to it to make it look like mashed potatoes.
Offer some to the kitten on your finger tip (Beware: Not knowing any better the kitten may try to eat
your finger tip) :)
Offer some to the kitten on a saucer; raised edges on a plate confuse it. Yes, this may be a messy
process, the kitten will walk into the food and shove its face into the food until it realizes that using the
mouth is easier.
You'll need to use that warm wash cloth again after the meal. This stimulates and teaches the kitten to
wash after every meal : )
I found the following in an email that was sent to me some years ago. At that time some rescuers
would put a single orphaned kitten in with any nursing mom in order to save its life. This is
a very dangerous thing to do as Dick Weavil describes:

Dick Weavil publisher of an e-mail newsletter called AnimalTalk (Nyppsi@aol.com), sent me the
following about the care of orphaned kittens. Susan Gordon FWD:
http://rescueguide.com/orphkits.html Go to site above for additional links and info. ~ Dick
ORPHANED KITTENS
Options:
1. Nursing mom: Kittens under 5-6 weeks should not be put on a nursing mom unless both moms have
been tested for Felv & FIV. Kittens can pass diseases to the nursing mom and the nursing mom can
pass diseases to the kittens.
2. Original mom is best: A mom cat will still produce milk to feed her kittens after being spayed. If you
think you need to feed the kittens because of the lack of milk, you don't. Mom's milk is the best for the
kittens. They get immunities from mom's milk.
3. Bottle feeding: When bottle-feeding kittens, use a different bottle for each litter if you have more
than one litter. Also, change your clothes to prevent URI's and other diseases from passing from litter
to litter.
4. Supplementing a litter of 6 kittens or more with a mom: If you have a mom with a litter of 6 or more
kittens, watch them carefully around 3-4 weeks of age. Mom may not have enough milk for the entire
litter and all the kittens will suffer. You may need to supplement the feedings with KMR (or equivalent)
Aging the Kittens:
1. Umbilical cord attached: They are 3 days or younger.
2. Eyes: They begin to open at 7-8 days and all eyes should be open by day 10. Their eyes generally
change from blue to blue/gray then yellow/green between 6 1/2 to 7 weeks of age but can vary kitten
to kitten and litter to litter. In one litter, kittens can be conceived 4-5 days apart. This also contributes
to the different days the eyes open.
3. Ears: Their ears stand up at 3 1/2 weeks of age.
4. Teeth: Another way to age the kittens is by the teeth. The following is from the Cornell Book of Cats.
The ages are when the teeth break the skin or 'eruption of the teeth' happens, or when they break the
surface.
Baby teeth:
• Center (4) Incisors (front teeth between the canines) 2-3 weeks
• Outer Incisors (still between the canines) 3-4 weeks
• Canines 3-4 weeks
• Upper molars (called a premolar) 2 months (8 weeks)
• Lower molars (called a premolar) 4-5 weeks
Adult teeth:
• Center (4) Incisors (front teeth between the canines) 3-1/2 to 4 months (14-16 weeks)
• Outer Incisors (still beaten the canines) 4 to 4-1/2 months (16-18 weeks)
• Canines 5 months
• Upper molars (called a premolar) 4-1/2 to 6 months (depending on tooth)
• Lower molars (called a premolar) 5-6 months for all
• Upper molar in back, no baby tooth, just the molar at 4-5 months
5. Mobility: They are unstable on their feet until they are around 4 weeks of age.
6. Eating: They generally are eating on their own between 5 and 6 weeks of age. Some will eat as
young as 4 weeks and some will take as long as 8 weeks to stop the bottle. The older kittens who
refuse to leave the bottle are generally needing the one-on-one affection they are receiving.
Care: 911:
1. If you find a chilled kitten: If you find a chilled kitten, warm it up before trying to feed the kitten. Hold
the kitten close to you to get warmth into the body. Give it warmed sugar water in the mouth. You can
also rub Karo Syrup on the gums. The syrup will inter the body quickly through the gums. Also, if the
kitten is dehydrated, give it fluids via sub-Q.
2. If you find an over warmed kitten: If you find an over warmed kitten, cool it up before trying to feed
the kitten. Put in cool water to lower the body temperature. Administer room temperature water into
the mouth. Then, give the kitten room-temperature sugar water or Karo Syrup and sub-Q fluids as listed
in #1.
3. If a kitten doesn't eat on his own after Karo Syrup: A kitten who is still doesn't eat may need a dose
of antibiotics. They often get an imbalance in their intestines and need to correct the bacteria. They
should eat within 12 hours of the first dose. Continue through the entire dose of drugs.
Care: non food related:
1. Very young need attention: If the kitten(s) do not have their eyes open, they are young and they
should be held a minimum of three hours per day. Transfer what we know about monkeys in a cage
without TLC, and you'll understand why the kittens need to be held. Without this affection, young
kittens will often die. Hold them SEVERAL HOURS A DAY and you should have success with the kitten.
2. Clear Urine: Urine should be clear, not with mucous, blood or yellow. If there is blood or mucous, see
a vet immediately. If the urine is yellow, the kitten is probably dehydrated. You may want to have
lactated ringers (fluids) administered by sub-Q .
3. Bathroom stimulation: Stimulation is required for the release of both stool & pee until 3-4 weeks of
age. use rough material, not cotton, to resemble mom's tongue. Use a warmed, wet wash cloth or a
rough paper towel. Make sure the towel is wet. Slowly massage the genitals until the kitten has peed
and pooped. The stool should be soft formed, not runny. If the stool is runny, it is likely you are
overfeeding the kitten or it has a parasite. It is better to feed more often and give less food each time
than to overfeed a kitten. Potty them before and after each feeding.
4. Keep warm and away from drafts: The kittens do not keep a steady body heat. Keep out of drafts.
Also, heating pads are essential if the weather is under 75 degrees. Put the pad on low and cover with a
towel. The kitten will move off the pad when warm enough, so allow enough room in their 'area' for
them to move off the pad.
5. Sucking on each other: If the kittens suck on each others genitals, separate them immediately. This
can be painful to the kittens and can cause sores as well as protruded genitals (which will calm down
when separated)
6. Litter box usage: When using the box, if the kittens poop outside the box, pick it up and place it into
the box for training. Most kittens train themselves with a litter box with a little nudge from us. If you
have the kittens in a large area, you may wish to provide more than one box so 'accidents' don't
happen.
7. Type of litter: Do not use clumping litter with kittens under 4 months. Litter can get into the eyes
and cause infections. Kittens also tend to eat the litter when young. You may wish to start out with a
small container for the litter box with sides that are only 2 inches high. I use drawer dividers that are 6"
x 9" x 2" high from Rubbermaid.
8. Parasites: Remove all fleas. I use a citrus based shampoo that doesn't kill the fleas, but slows them
down. This also takes the dirt off them. A metal flea comb works great, too. Fleas can cause anemia in
a kitten which can kill them. Intestinal parasites can also kill the kitten. if you suspect parasites, take
the kitten to a vet for de-worming and stool check. Drontal is a fairly new de-wormer that will kill both
tapeworm and roundworm. It can be used on fairly young kittens.

Note: All kittens should be treated at sometime for roundworms, since 95% will have roundworms from
their moms. It should be routine with your vet to de-worm for roundworms.
Care: food related:
1. Feeding all kittens: Food should be warmed to room temperature prior to feeding any kitten under 4
months of age. This includes mother's milk replacement.
2. How much to feed and how often: 8cc per pound of weight per day, do not overfeed. Feedings should
be every 3-4 hours when the kittens are young and should be round the clock. The stool should be soft
formed, not runny. If the stool is runny, it is likely you are overfeeding the kitten or it has a parasite. It
is better to feed more often and give less food each time than to overfeed a kitten.
3. Position to feed from a bottle: Kittens should eat on it's stomach, in the position one would feed a
horse, lamb or cow. Do not put them on their backs and feed like a human baby. This can lead to the
formula going into the air pipes which can cause pneumonia and can kill them.
4. How the kittens should suck the bottle: Kitten should suck the bottle, not be forced down the throat.
If the kitten is sucking, the ears move and the mouth creates a suction around the bottle. This prevents
the food from going down the air pipes which can cause pneumonia. If the milk comes out of the
mouth, the hole is too big and you need to replace the nipple with one with a smaller opening.
5. Weaning kittens: Weaning kittens can be frustrating, especially if they don't want to give up the
bottle and the special attention you are giving them. Start by mixing baby food (meats like chicken or
turkey) or wet food mixed with KMR. You can also puree dry food in a blender and add with KMR.
6. Water dishes: Kittens should start drinking water on their own at 4-5 weeks of age. Don't get
frustrated when they are only playing or walking in it. One day, you will see them drinking.
What to feed:
Goats milk or KMR should be used on young kittens. Regular milk (whole, low-fat and non-fat) is not
recommended. There are some home made remedies which work, too. Most grocery stores carry
goats milk, and it is available in condensed form to keep in the cupboard.
KMR is available from a pet store, your vet or a feed store. KMR is available in both mixed and dry
version. The dry is more economical. There is a trick to mixing the water. Get a small container with a
secure lid. Add some KMR powder and then add 1/10 the amount of total water needed. Shake until
mixed. You should have a thick, smooth liquid. Dilute the liquid with the remaining 9/10 of the water.
Notes: I, personally, don't believe in tube-feeding. A healthy cat will eat. A cat that needs to be forced
may need a day of antibiotics to 'kick in' the stomach. A kitten that has gone a long time without food
may have it's stomach shut down. This will result in the milk curdling inside the kitten if the stomach is
not functioning. This will kill the kitten. The best thing to do is to give the kitten warmed sugar water or
rub Karo Syrup on the gums. Warmed sugar water is water that is saturated with regular white table
sugar. Warm up a bit of water and add as much sugar that will be absorbed by the water. Karo Syrup
on the gums will be absorbed into the system through the gums.
Single kitten syndrome:
Single kittens tend to be biters. This can be helped by putting in a stuffed toy for the kitten to snuggle
up to. You may also wish to find another single kitten to merge with this kitten. It is a health risk to
merge them together for either kitten, but it can be really hard to break the habit of biting with a young
kitten.
Why some kittens are abandoned:
Abandonment at birth: Moms tends to leave some kittens behind at birth if she feels she can not care
for, protect or have enough milk for the entire litter. This is usually done within the first 24 hours.
Abandonment after the first week: If the mom has kicked just one out of the litter, there is probably
something congenitally wrong with him/her and you will probably loose the kitten. Mom cats can sense
if there is something wrong with a kitten.
Why some kittens die:
Some kittens die for no apparent reason. Any kitten you bring in may die despite your efforts. This is a
sad fact of rescue.
 Back to OUR Neighborhood Dilemma
What You Can Do to Help
Call for information and Training in
Bottle Feeding a Kitten: Usually a
newborn must be fed every hour and half;
stimulated and kept warm. You become
the Mother Cat Surrogate – you won’t look
at a cat/kitten the same way ever again
once you’ve bottle fed one!
Donate Table(s): Folding tables where a
cage or two can hold the foster mom.
Cages: Ideally 36” cage to hold a litter
pan and leave room for the cat to sleep.
Carriers: For small cats / kittens / adult
cats
Canned Food: When you buy food for
your pet buy an extra can or two and add
it to a store collection bin.
Dry Food: When you buy food for your
pet buy an extra bag and add it to a store
collection bin.
Litter: Any clay litter
Towels: Super for cleaning a soiled cat or
cage.
Blankets: Invaluable when keeping
newborn or kittens warm. Also good for
Senior cats.
Transportation: Help is often needed to
transport animals to the ASPCA van or to
deliver newly adopted animals to their
new home.
Donated Services: Printing services;
paper and ink; a space to show cats for
adoption . . . it all depends upon what the
rescue can use.
Financial Donations to Veterinarian:
Once you have researched the group you
are interested in working with and are
sure this is an ethical rescue you may
want to help ease the financial burden of
Vet costs. I recommend you donate
directly to the vet.
Why do we ask for financial help?
One elderly woman in our area who is
using her tiny pension to do TNR thought
she had help in the way of a spay/neuter
program through Maddie’s Fund. The cost
of spaying would be $10 through the
program. She went through the trouble of
trapping a cat that she thought was
pregnant. The cat turned out to have
Here’s a shock
The Maddie’s Spay/Neuter program only
covers strict spay/neuter not pyometra
according to some vets. That surgery costs
much more and many vets just won’t do it for
the $10. It involves more recovery care and
antibiotics, it’s not a simple surgery. Those
are the facts – don’t hate the vet that won’t
do it for the $10: Try to find one who will.
Many vets will also charge for the office visit
and blood tests that are also not covered
though required by vets prior to surgery.
There are low cost vets that can help you.
I’m listing a few.
Must we as a community do it all ourselves?
Seems like that to me. So, if you can make a
donation to a non profit that will help these
people send it along to Hiss & Spit, Inc. Any
donations of about $200 or more are tax
deductible (ask for the exact amount). These
donations should be via check or money
order and clearly marked to the organization.
They must report this income to the IRS even
though it’s tax deductible.
More Resources are available online. If you
have a PC go to Craigslist.com and type in
the Keyword (ASPCA van) to get information
about where the van will be in each boro or
call the ASPCA Caravan at 1-877-772-9692.
If you are a low income person or senior
citizen the cat is spayed/neutered for free
and gets a free rabies vaccine. You may be
able to get an appointment under special
circumstances so that you don’t have to wait
only to find that the 23 spots for the day
have been filled. Yes, spots fill quickly and
people without appointments are in line as
early as 7am! There’s a van for low income
spay/neutering and there’s a van for TNR
only spay/neutering.
I’ll be putting out more information on other
resources such as the Tobi Project and the
special low cost vet van in Manhattan.
Following are some low cost vet clinics that
will make life easier for you and your pet.
 Pyometra – pus in the womb from results
of spaying too late or not spaying at all.

Spay/Neuter Resources
Maddie’s Spay/Neuter Program
To begin, let me bring you up to date with one program: Low-cost spays and neuters for
cats and dogs for New York City residents on public assistance. If you reside within
the five boroughs of New York City and are on public assistance, you can have up to a total of
6 cats or dogs (or a combination of cats/dogs totaling no more than 6) spayed or neutered
each year for a special low price at participating clinics.
This program pays for spay/neuter at participating vets, however, you need to know that it
doesn’t cover the office visit; vaccines required prior to the spay/neuter operation and
anything outside of the actual surgery. The actual cost may end up being about $100.
Be sure to discuss this with the veterinarian so that you are both on the same
page.
Without Maddie’s Fund Program you’d pay $100 for your first office visit for testing;
vaccinations; de-worming and exam. The actual spay/neuter would be $75 and up
depending on the vet. You can do 6 cats or dogs per year.
Here's how it works:
1) Locate a participating veterinary practice or non-profit organization from the list below.
2) Call the facility and make an appointment. Mention that you are using Maddie's
Spay/Neuter Project in NYC.
3) Bring proof of public assistance and photo ID with you when you take your cat(s) or dog(s)
in for the appointment. To qualify, pet owners/guardians can provide any of the following as
proof of eligibility:
• Medicaid (or other subsidized medical plan) card
• Medicare card
• SSI
• Disability/SSD
• Reduced-Fare MetroCard (senior or disabled)
• Welfare
• Food stamps
• Public housing (NYCHA rent bill or Section 8 voucher/letter)
4) The veterinarian will perform the surgery.
5) Pay for the surgery: $10 for each cat, $20 for each dog; up to a total of 6 animals per
household per year. Note: These fees apply to spay or neuter surgeries only. If your pet
requires additional care, such as pre-surgery testing of an older pet or other procedures,
those costs will be in addition to the spay or neuter fee. Please ask the veterinarian to inform
you prior to the surgery (preferably when you make the appointment) of any additional costs.

More Information
Note: These fees apply to spay or neuter surgeries only. If your pet requires additional
care, such as pre-surgery testing of an older pet or other procedures, those costs will be in
addition to the spay or neuter fee. The veterinarian will inform you prior to the surgery of any
additional costs. Limit is 6 cats or dogs, or a combination of cats and dogs, per person, per
year.
Contact Evon Handras at (212) 404-3202 or spayneuter@AnimalAllianceNYC.org
 Maddie’s Participating Veterinarians & Non-Profit
Organizations
th
Animal Clinic of 20 Avenue
8317 20th Avenue, 11214
(718) 372-6600
Animal Clinic of Bay Ridge
689 86th Street, 11228
(718) 833-0700
Animal Kind Veterinary Hospital
365 7th Avenue, 11215
(718) 832-3899
Animal Medicine & Surgery
Clinic
9518 Avenue L, 11236
(718) 444-5151
Dr. Sinha’s Animal Clinic
1946 Bath Avenue, 11214
(718) 449-7800
Pet Haven Animal Hospital
290 McDonald Avenue, 11218
(718) 435-6900
Dr. Linda Jacobson, PC
291 Kings Highway, 11223
(718) 376-8957
Brooklyn
The ASPCA van (Caravan) is at
announced sites in Brooklyn once a
month. People on Medicare/Medicaid
are eligible to bring their cats early in
the morning (7:30 am for a long line) and
pick up their pets at about 2 or 3 pm
(staff will give you the exact time).
There is a limit to how many cats they
can do in one day and I believe it is
limited to 23. If you’re number 24 on
line you will have to try again the
following month.
ASPCA Mobile Spay/Neuter Clinic
For information about ASPCA mobile
spay/neuter clinic dates and locations, and
instructions for pet owners, please visit
www.aspca.org/petowners or call 1-877-772-
9692.
When your pet is spayed/neutered at the
van you get the rabies shot for free. If
you want other services such as testing
or flea control it will cost you a small fee.
This is worthwhile because you’re not
charged an office fee for an examination.
(See TNR Sheet)
 ASPCA | ASPCA Mobile Spay/Neuter Clinics
The ASPCA Mobile Spay/Neuter Clinic offers free and low-cost spay and neuter services for pet
owners who are residents of New York City's five boroughs.
www.aspca.org

ASPCA Mobile Spay/Neuter Clinics

What animals will you accept?
We WILL spay/neuter:
• Healthy dogs and cats
• Puppies and kittens as long as they are eight weeks old and weigh at least two pounds
• Female cats in heat
• Pregnant cats and dogs depending on the health of the animal and term of the pregnancy
• Large dogs
We WON'T spay/neuter:
• Ferrets, rabbits, and other animals
• Unhealthy or contagious animals…no coughing, sneezing, watery eyes, runny noses, mange,
and/or ringworm.
• Female dogs in heat (wait one month after her period ends to spay her)
• Female dogs and cats who are nursing puppies and kittens (wait one month after she has
weaned her litter before she can be spayed)
• Male animals with only one testicle
• Animals over five years old must be seen by our medical team, who will determine if they can
undergo surgery on the mobile clinic
What do I need to bring?
• Bring proof of public assistance and a picture ID with proof that you are 18 or over. If you are
bringing a pet for someone who is disabled or elderly, make sure to have their public assistance
proof and picture ID.
• Bring all cats in carriers, with one cat per carrier. Bring dogs on leashes.
• Bring money to purchase an e-collar to put on your pet after surgery. An e-collar is a plastic cone
that fits around your pet's neck to prevent your pet from licking its stitches and causing an
infection. Bring $5 to purchase one.
How do I prepare my pet for surgery?
For animal(s) less than 4 months of age feed small meal at about 6am on the morning of surgery. For
animal(s) greater than 4 months of age, remove food from animal at midnight prior to surgery. Do not
withhold water at any time prior to admission of surgery.
How do I take care of my pet after surgery?
If you are currently experiencing a post op emergency resulting from a spay or neuter done on the
ASPCA mobile spay neuter clinic please call 1-877-SPAY-NYC (1-877-772-9692) for assistance and
press option number 5 to speak to a post op team member 24/7.
When your pet is discharged from the mobile clinic, you will be given a list of instructions explaining
post operative care. You can also download them here:
How can I reserve the mobile clinic for my community?
If you are an NYC community leader in a low income community and would like to sponsor the mobile
clinic, all you need to do is find a parking spot large enough to accommodate for our 37' mobile clinic.
This location should also be easy for pet owners to travel to and be in an area where the public can
easily see the clinic.

ASPCA Van Schedule for August 2010

For more information please call 877-SPAY-NYC.
08/01/10: Bushwick Library
Where: Bushwick Library, 340 Bushwick Ave. at the Corner of Siegal St., Bushwick - View on Map | Get
Directions

08/01/10: Petland City Line

Where: 1127 Liberty Ave. between Lincoln and Sheridan, City Line - View on Map | Get Directions

08/03/10: Petland Pitkin Ave next to the H&R Block

Where: 1689 Pitkin Ave - View on Map | Get Directions

08/04/10: Petland Sheepshead Bay

Where: 3815 Nostrand Ave. Bw Aves. Y & Z (shopping center) - View on Map | Get Directions

08/07/10: Petland Discounts Greenpoint

Where: 846 Manhattan Ave. between Milton and Noble Streets - View on Map | Get Directions

08/08/10: Brooklyn Public Library Kings Highway Branch

Where: 2115 Ocean Ave between Kings Highway & Quentin Rd - View on Map | Get Directions

08/08/10: Bensonhurst - Garibaldi Playground

Where: 18th Ave between 82nd & 83rd Streets - View on Map | Get Directions

08/10/10: Petland Fulton, Bed-Stuy

Where: 1216 Fulton Street between Nostrand and Bedford - View on Map | Get Directions

08/11/10: Herbert Von King Cultural Arts Rec Center

Where: 670 Lafayette Ave, between Tompkins Ave & Marcy Ave - View on Map | Get Directions

08/12/10: Brooklyn ACC, East New York

Where: 2336 Linden Blvd. between Shepard Ave. and Essex St., East New York - View on Map | Get
Directions

08/15/10: Coney Island

Where: Mermaid Ave & W 25th St - View on Map | Get Directions

08/17/10: Petland Flatbush

Where: Albemarle Rd. bw Flatbush Ave. & Bedford Ave. - View on Map | Get Directions

08/18/10: Bushwick
Where: Linden St & Wilson Ave - View on Map | Get Directions

08/21/10: Straight Way Church

Where: 729 Saratoga Avenue between Dumont & Livonia Ave - View on Map | Get Directions

08/22/10: Bed-Stuy - Tompkins Park

Where: 676 Lafayette Ave between Marcy Ave and Tompkins Ave - View on Map | Get Directions
08/22/10: Red Hook Park
Where: Corner of Richards & Pioneer Streets - View on Map | Get Directions
 ASPCA: TNR VAN
No Cost Spay/Neuter for Feral Cats

American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA)

No cost spay/neuter for feral cats is offered by ASPCA Mobile Spay/Neuter Clinics, a program
that travels throughout the five boroughs. Rabies vaccination and eartipping are also free and
additional services are available at low cost. To be eligible, you must attend the three-hour
Neighborhood Cats TNR training workshop and submit a signed Rescuer User Agreement.
For a schedule of workshops, see NYC Workshops. To download a copy of the Rescuer User
Agreement, click here. The first and last pages of the agreement should be completed, signed
and mailed to:
Kimberly Smith
ASPCA Mobile Spay/Neuter Clinics
424 East 92nd Street
New York, NY 10128
When you're ready to schedule a spay/neuter appointment, call (877) SPAY-NYC and select
the TNR option. Live representatives can be reached Monday through Friday (2 pm to 8 pm)
and Saturdays (10 am to 2 pm). The hotline can also be used for the following:
- To learn how to become eligible to use the rescue mobile spay/neuter clinics.
- To hear the minimum requirements prior to booking a spay/neuter appointment.
- To request traps for your TNR project.
- To communicate any mobile spay/neuter clinic post-operative issues.
- To ask any questions or express concerns about the ASPCA Mobile Spay/Neuter Clinics.
For more information, click here.
Other Resources for Spay/Neuter and Low Cost Veterinary Care
(Prices may have changed since I copied this information but it’s still a good “ballpark”
figure.)
HUMANE SOCIETY THE FUND FOR ANIMALS
EXAMINATIONS $26 SERVICES FOR HEALTHY ANIMALS – NO
(Additional $5 on Sundays) EXAMINATIONS PROVIDED
DISTEMPER VACCINE: $15 CATS
RABIES VACCINE: $15 FEMALE - $25
FELINE LEUKEMIA AND AIDS COMBO 4-IN-1 DISTEMPER VACCINE: $15
TEST: $32 Lab/ $37 On Site RABIES VACCINE: $15
FECAL TEST: $10 FELINE LEUKEMIA AND AIDS COMBO TEST:
NAIL TRIM: $5 $20
DEWORMING: $5 FECAL TEST: $8
CATS NAIL TRIM: $10
Female -- $48 DEWORMING: $5-$14
Male -- $38 MONDAY THROUGH THURSDAY
Free spay and neuter: 2 Wednesdays a 10 AM – 3PM
month NO APPOINTMENT NEEDED JUST WALK-
7 DAYS A WEEK IN
9:30 AM – 4:00 PM 355 WEST 52ND STREET, NYC
APPOINTMENT NECESSARY (between 8th & 9th Ave)
306 EAST 59TH STREET, NYC 10022 CALL (212) 977-6877
Between 1st & 2nd Avenue
CALL (212) 752-4840
DR. ROBINSON Don’t forget that many Petco Stores
Low Cost Animal Clinic – have a veterinarian on weekends who
1951 Bath Avenue charges only for shots or deworming.
Brooklyn, NY 11215
(718) 256-1900 Ask for their handouts listing the services
CATS and rates.
FEMALE - $70
MALE - $40 This is not the place to go for
examinations or sick animals – just a
way to save on regular vaccinations and do
no harm services without an additional
office fee to boot! Many Petco stores also
have in store grooming services. See if they
appeal to you!

Please don’t abandon animals on other people’s door steps. You don’t know
what their financial or other situations are: You may be forcing them to take
your abandoned pets to the CACC.
 Other TNR Resources
When you call the above resources PLEASE be prepared to actively trap/provide a
recovery space and return the cats for Feral Colony Follow up YOURSELVES.
Do not expect these people to come out and do the work for you.
They will help you out, especially if you’ve taken the TNR Workshop.
The Workshop teaches you how to properly trap a cat, set up a recovery space, get
the cat through recovery and return the cat to the colony. You must also know how
to manage a colony. If you’re not prepared to do this the above numbers are of
virtually no use to you.

AC&C Brooklyn Animal Care Center 2336 Linden Boulevard, Brooklyn

ASPCA Spay/Neuter Van General Number

1-877-772-9692 1-212-876-7700

Mayor's Alliance for NYC's Animals:
Free Dog & Cat Spay/Neuter Clinic
Appointment required.
For more information or to make an
appointment, contact Barbara at
(917) 579-1955

Neighborhood Cats (212) 662-5761

headcat@neighborhoodcats.org
A great resource after you’ve taken their TNR
Workshop
Neighborhood Cats
2576 Broadway, No. 555
New York, NY 10025
 Friends of Animals
For questions related to Friends of Animals’ Spay/Neuter Program, please call: 1-800-321-
PETS (1-800-321-7387). Or send an email to spay@friendsofanimals.org
Spay/Neuter Certificate Information and Instructions
Before proceeding to our online store to purchase your Spay/Neuter Certificate, please read
completely.
The recommended age for spay/neutering is 2 - 6 months of age. Female animals should be
spayed before their first heat (estrus cycle). They do not need to have a litter before spaying.
Before ordering a Friends of Animals’ spay/neuter certificate, please call the veterinarian of
your choice from the “Participating Veterinarian” list and confirm his/her continued
participation in the Friends of Animals’ spay/neuter program. Inform the veterinarian that you
intend to use a Friends of Animals’ spay/neuter certificate.
Ask any questions you may have regarding the procedure, what is required, and if there are
any additional fees.
Do not make an appointment with the veterinarian until you have received the Friends of
Animals’ certificate. You must have the certificate to give to the veterinarian when the animal
is admitted for spay/neutering.
The Friends of Animals certificate covers the cost of a routine spay/neuter procedure
including a cursory (not full) surgical pre-exam, anesthesia, surgical procedure, waste
disposal, day of surgery post-operative care and pain-relief, hospitalization as required, and
stitch removal if necessary.
Inoculations are the responsibility of the pet-owner and may be required by the veterinarian.
The veterinarian may charge the pet-owner additional fees for non-routine procedures such
as:
• pre-diagnosed infections
• undescended testicles
• animals in estrus cycle (heat)
• pregnancy
• dogs 50 lbs. and over
• age (older animal)
• take-home medication
• bloodwork
Ask the veterinarian about any additional charges before the spay/neuter procedure is
performed. All services requested unrelated to a routine spay/neuter procedure are the
responsibility of the pet-owner.
Friends of Animals’ certificates for cats are not valid if cat is to be declawed.
Cats need claws for protection and for their physical and mental well-being. Declawing is
painful, cruel and psychologically damaging.
Certificates expire one (1) year after date of issue.
Refund Policy:
Prior to expiration: returned, unused certificates are refundable. A $10 service fee will be
deducted on refunded certificates.
Lost or expired certificates are not refundable.
No refunds made after one (1) year from date of issue.
Certificate may not be transferred or resold.
The prices for our low-cost certificates are:
Female Cat $65.00
Male Cat $51.00
Female Dog $90.00
Male Dog $64.00
Upon receipt of your order and payment, Friends of Animals will process the order, and your
Friends of Animals’ certificate(s) will be mailed to you within 7 business days.
Please Note
Veterinarians and animal hospitals participating in our program are governed and licensed by
the state in which they are located. They are not owned and/or operated by Friends of
Animals, Inc. Should you have a problem with a veterinarian regarding a spay/neuter
procedure using a Friends of Animals’ certificate:

Please contact Friends of Animals in writing at

777 Post Road
Darien CT 06820
Below is the list of FoA participating veterinarians in your area.
Print out a copy of this file for your records.
KINGS BAY VET HOSPITAL MOBILE VETERINARY UNIT - CATS ONLY
2560 CONEY ISLAND AVE 94 AVE U
BROOKLYN, NY 11223 BROOKLYN, NY 11223
718-339-0557 718-373-0240
ANIMAL CLINIC OF 20TH AVE ANIMAL MED & SURGERY
8317 20TH AVE 2016 BATH AVE
BROOKLYN, NY 11214 BROOKLYN, NY 11214
718-372-6600 718-266-4000
BROOKLYN VET GROUP/CATS ONLY BATH AVE ANIMAL CLINIC -
7624 NEW UTRECHT AVE CATS & SMALL DOGS
BROOKLYN, NY 11214 1951 BATH AVE
718-331-7775 BROOKLYN, NY 11214
718-256-1900
DR. SINHA'S ANIMAL CLINIC/CATS/MALE DOGS ONLY JEFFREY STEIN DVM/CATS ONLY
1946 BATH AVE 102 WEST END AVE
BROOKLYN, NY 11214 BROOKLYN, NY 11235
718-449-7800 718-616-0964
L JEMPOLSKY DVM/CATS ONLY JACK BREGMAN DVM/CATS ONLY
2125 BATH AVE 1899 CONEY ISLAND
BROOKLYN, NY 11214 BROOKLYN, NY 11230
718-373-5126 718-645-7666
ANIMAL CLINIC OF MARINE PARK FIFTH AVE VET HOSP
3616 QUENTIN RD 9102 FIFTH AVE
BROOKLYN, NY 11234 BROOKLYN, NY 11209
718-382-8100 718-748-1066
Thank you.
Friends of Animals
 Friends of Animals
Spay and Neuter Certificate Information
Although there are an estimated 100 million cats and dogs kept by responsible and caring people in the
United States, there is also a tragic number of these companion animals who suffer horrid cruelties
associated with abandonment.
Animal shelters in the U.S. kill about 5.1 million such abandoned pets each year. And uncounted
millions more suffer sickness, exposure, starvation and death on the streets of the nation’s cities and
towns, and in the fields and forests of the countryside.
From its beginning in 1957, FoA has assumed a leadership role in advocating low-cost spaying and
altering as the most effective means of preventing the births of unwanted dogs and cats, and their
subsequent abandonment, suffering and mass killing. For more than five decades, we have operated
the only nationwide breeding control program in the United States facilitating more than 2 million
spay/neuter procedures.
Pet owners may purchase a certificate from Friends of Animals that can be used for a routine spay or
neuter surgery at any of FoA’s participating veterinary hospitals.
Spaying and Neutering Certificates may be purchased on-line. Or to order by mail call 1-800-
321-PETS (1-800-321-7387) and request an application
The recommended age for spay/neutering is 2-6 months of age.
Female animals should be spayed before their first heat (estrus cycle). They do not need to have a litter
before spaying.
FoA certificates are not valid for a cat if the cat is to be declawed.
Cats need their claws for protection and for their physical and mental well-being. Declawing is painful,
cruel and psychologically damaging.
Online Spay/Neuter Certificates
Our online low-cost spay/neuter certificate ordering is simple and most of all secure.
To locate participating veterinarians in your area or to order certificates online, enter your
zip code into the field below.
Muffins BROOKLYN
Spay/Neuter Certificates
We have 78 Participating Veterinarians throughout NYC including Long Island and
Westchester. NY STATE RESIDENTS ONLY!
*Certificates cannot be printed from your computer
Fine stores that sell Muffin’s Low Cost Spay/Neuter certificates in Brooklyn. These
are Muffin's representatives. They are NOT veterinarians. Please pay CASH ONLY
at the stores.
PAWS & CLAWS Grooming (718) 836-8345
57 Bay Ridge Ave. 11220
Store hours:
Tues. thru Sat. 8am-4pm

PAWS R' US Grooming (718) 745-9797

8302 - 13th Ave. Dyker Heights 11228
Store Hours:
Tues. thru Sat. 9am-4pm (CALL FIRST)

NYC PET.COM
385 - 7th Ave. 11215 (718) 765-3954 Park Slope
Store hours:
Mon thru Fri 9am-8pm
Saturday 9am-7pm
Sunday 10am-6pm
NYC PET.COM 718 387 2220
241 Bedford Ave, 11211 Williamsburg
Store hours:
Mon. 10am-9pm
Tues thru Fri. 10am-8pm
Sat. 9am-7:30pm
Sunday 11am-6pm

NYC PET.COM 718 230 8224

218-5th Ave. 11215 Park Slope
Store hours:
Mon.thru Fri. 9am-8pm
Sat. 9am-6pm
Sunday 10am-6pm

BARGAIN BOW WOW 718 332 6192

2754 Gerritsen Avenue 11229
Store hours:
Mont thru Fri 11am - 8pm
Sat. - 9am - 8pm
Sunday - 9am-6pm
*PLEASE APPLY THE FOLLOWING WHEN MAKING AN APPOINTMENT WITH MUFFIN'S
PARTICIPATING VETS:
*CLIENT MUST MENTION MUFFIN'S CERTIFICATE WHEN MAKING AN APPOINTMENT.
FAILURE TO DO SO, COULD RESULT IN THE VET'S OFFICE REFUSAL TO ACCEPT
MUFFIN'S CERTIFICATES. PLEASE THANK THE VET FOR BEING IN MUFFIN'S
PROGRAM.
Click below to order Discount certificates online.
Male Cat ... $50
Female Cat ... $65
Male Dog ... $65
Female Dog ... $85
• If a dog is over 30 pounds, there may be additional fee paid to the vet for
 more Anesthesia. Shots, pain management and antibiotics are NOT included
with certificate.
Female Cat Spay Certificate
Male Dog Neuter Certificate
Female Dog Spay Certificate
Please remember to CHECKOUT to complete your order.
To mail check or money order:
Click here for a printable application
Fax application order to: (718) - 921- 6327 8am-8pm
• If you want certificate faxed to the vet, write on the application the name of the office,
date/time of appointment and the pet's name.
• Each certificate includes:
• Examination, surgery, anesthesia and stitch removal if necessary.
• There may be additional fee for *dogs over 30lbs for more anesthesia. Retained
testicles, pets over 5 years old, blood test, female cats/dogs in heat or any other
medical procedure not related to the spay/neuter surgery is not included.
Shots are mandatory. Vaccinations, antibiotics and pain management are not included with
the certificate. Ask about shots fees and any other additional charges when making
appointment.
The recommended age for cats/dogs to be spay/neuter is between 4-6 months. Check with
vet. Certificates are mailed the same day payment is received.
When you receive the certificate, call a vet from Muffin's vet list and mention that you have a
Muffin's certificate.
Bring the certificate with you the day of surgery.
To have a certificate faxed to vet (same day):
Check the vet list to see which office accepts a faxed copy of Muffin's certificate. Make an
appointment with vet first, then charge and request certificate faxed to the vet. After the
credit card information is processed, scroll down to COMMENT BOX. Please add vet's office,
pet's name, date/time of appointment in this box.
The certificate can not be faxed by pet owner, only by Muffin's.
REFUND CERTIFICATE INFORMATION:
There is a $10 service fee per certificate refunded, for the first six months. Please
return certificate with a self-addressed stamped-envelope. On the front of the
certificate write REFUND with your name and phone number.
UPDATE CERTIFICATE:
There is a $5.00 service fee per certificate, for the first six months from date of
issue. Please return certificate with a self-addressed stamped-envelope. On the
front of the certificate write REFUND with your name and phone number.
When Muffin's is closed, emails are checked throughout the day. Orders are processed, mailed or faxed the same day. If you have
any questions, please email us muffinspets@aol.com. (www.muffins.org/spay.htm &
muffinspets@gmail.com)
LOW COST OR FREE SPAY-NEUTER PROGRAMS IN U.S.: NEW YORK SPAYING ...
For cats in New York, listed below are low cost or free spay and neuter programs, plus
local information sources who may be able to tell you about other
www.lovethatcat.com/stny.html
The Tobi Project
Free and Low-Cost Spay & Neuter in New York City | The Toby Project
We will make New York City a true "no-kill' city by delivering free and low-cost spay/neuter
services to all five boroughs of New York City using mobile ...www.tobyproject.org/
IMPORTANT INFORMATION:
1. YOU MUST BE A RESIDENT OF NYC (Bronx, Manhattan, Queens, Brooklyn, Staten Island).
2. Our service is FREE if you are on public assistance. Please bring PHOTO ID.
3. Our service is FREE if your dog is a Pitbull.
4. Our service is FREE if you have a non-purebred dog or cat. You don't have to be on public
assistance.
5. If you have a PUREBRED dog or cat and you are not on public assistance, you must pay
$75.
BROWNSVILLE, BROOKLYN 1689 Pitkin Ave (betw Chester & Rockaway) Near Petland
Discounts
BROOKLYN 07/31/2010 - 7:30am
HERE'S HOW IT WORKS:
1. Please take away all food and water after MIDNIGHT the night before surgery.
2. Your pet must be:
• Healthy
• Between the ages of 4 months and 5 years
• Not be excessively overweight
• Not less than 4 lbs. body weight
3. Please arrive at the site, with no more than 2 pets at 7:30 AM. You will be taken on a first-
come, first-served basis, although pitbulls will take priority.
4. You will be provided with a form to fill out authorizing us to perform the surgery.
5. You will be asked basic questions about your pet and a nurse will perform an exam.
6. You will then leave your pet with us and come back for pickup in the afternoon.
7. We will try to be as specific as possible about the pick-up time.
8. At pick up, you will receive instructions on:
• How to care for your pet while still drowsy
• How to monitor the wound
• How to give medication for pain that we will provide
• How to prevent your pet from licking or chewing at the wound
• Who to call if you have emergency concerns from the surgery
PLEASE BRING:
1. Photo ID
2. Proof of Public Assistance if you qualify for Public Assistance.
THIS INCLUDES:
• *Welfare * Medicaid * Medicare * Public Housing * SSI
• Food Stamps * Disability
NOTE TO CAT OWNERS: You are required to bring carriers (not cardboard boxes) with your
cats inside -- 1 cat per carrier. If you don't bring your cat in a carrier, you will be required to
purchase one for $5.
WE PROVIDE A FREE or NO-COST SERVICE. PLEASE DONATE IF YOU CAN.
DONATIONS ARE ACCEPTED AT THE MOBILE CLINIC.
¿ESTÁS INTERESADO EN LIBRE o de bajo costo esterilización?
YES! Click Here For ALL Information ¡SÍ! Haga clic aquí para toda la Información
WHEN WILL WE BE IN YOUR NEIGHBORHOOD? ¿Cuándo seremos en su vecindario?
FOR SCHEDULE Click Here Haga clic aquí CALENDARIO DE
SI USTED DESEA VER ESTA PAGINA WEB EN ESPANOL SI USTED DESEA VER PAGINA ESTA WEB
EN ESPAÑOL
A Note From Toby Project Founder Dr. Andrew Kaplan Una nota del fundador del proyecto Dr.
Toby Andrew Kaplan
The unfortunate fact is that the fate of these particular animals is sealed, but you can be the
hope behind preventing future generations from ending up in those same cages. We ask that
you think of these animals awaiting almost certain death in the shelter – scared, alone and
frightened. Please give the gift that will make the difference – join in our mission and help us
in building a better future for all of New York City's animals. Please donate. El hecho
lamentable es que el destino de estos animales en particular está sellado, pero puede estar
detrás de la esperanza de prevenir futuras generaciones acaben en esas jaulas misma. Le
pedimos que usted piensa de estos animales en espera de una muerte casi segura en el
refugio - miedo, solos y asustados. Por favor dé el regalo que hará la diferencia - participar en
nuestra misión y nos ayudan en la construcción de un futuro mejor para todos York Nueva
animales. Por favor, done.
Andrew Kaplan, DVM Andrew Kaplan, DVM
Free and Low-Cost Spay & Neuter in New York City Libre y de bajo costo y Esterilización
Esterilizar en la ciudad de Nueva York
MISSION MISIÓN
The Toby Project will end the killing of tens of thousands of adoptable dogs and cats each year
in New York City's municipal animal shelters by preventing the births of unwanted dogs and
cats. El Proyecto Toby pondrá fin a la matanza de decenas de miles de perros y gatos
adoptables cada año en refugios de animales municipal de Nueva York mediante la
prevención de los nacimientos de perros y gatos no deseados.
We will make New York City a true "no-kill' city by delivering free and low-cost spay/neuter
services to all five boroughs of New York City using mobile surgical vans specifically equipped
for this purpose. By reaching out to targeted communities, our aim is to prevent the breeding
of the very dogs and cats whose offspring account for most of the animals relinquished to our
municipal shelters, where they are often killed. Vamos a hacer de Nueva York una verdadera
"sin muerte" de la ciudad mediante la entrega gratuita y de bajo costo de esterilización /
castración de los servicios de los cinco condados de Nueva York utilizando furgonetas móviles
quirúrgica específicamente equipado para este fin. Al llegar a las comunidades beneficiarias,
nuestro objetivo es evitar la reproducción de los perros y gatos muy cuyos descendientes
constituyen la mayor parte de los animales renunciado a nuestros albergues municipales,
donde a menudo son asesinados.
HISTORY HISTORIA
Each year, approximately 15,000 of the dogs and cats taken to municipal shelters in New York
City are killed simply because there are not enough homes to meet the demand. Cada año,
aproximadamente 15.000 de los perros y gatos llevados a albergues municipales en Nueva
York son asesinadas simplemente porque no hay suficientes hogares para satisfacer la
demanda. That's about 60 a day! Eso es alrededor de 60 por día! This intolerable problem
exists because the City's uncontrolled stray population reproduces naturally -- and too many
pet owners allow their dogs and cats to breed without contemplating the consequences . Este
problema existe porque intolerable callejeros sin control la población de la Ciudad reproduce
naturalmente -, y los propietarios de mascotas demasiados permiten que sus perros y gatos
de raza sin contemplar las consecuencias .
While many pet owners find wonderful companions through animal shelters, it is well-
documented that successful adoption programs alone will not solve the pet overpopulation
crisis. Mientras que muchos dueños de mascotas encontrar compañeros maravillosos a través
de los refugios de animales, está bien documentado que los programas de adopción por sí
sola no resolverá la crisis de sobrepoblación de mascotas. Alternatively, adequately funded
spay/neuter programs that target low income communities have led to great success in
reducing shelter populations and subsequent high death rates in cities in New Hampshire ,
Utah and California. In fact, in 2006, Animal Friendly NYC commissioned a study projecting a
dramatic drop in New York City shelter intake, using the New Hampshire program, led by Peter
Marsh , as a model. Por otra parte, con una financiación adecuada esterilización / castración
programas que se dirigen a las comunidades de bajos ingresos han llevado con gran éxito en
la reducción de las poblaciones de refugio y las subsiguientes altas tasas de mortalidad en las
ciudades de New Hampshire , Utah y California. De hecho, en 2006, Animal Friendly ciudad de
Nueva York encargó un estudio de proyección una dramática caída en Nueva York el consumo
refugio, utilizando el programa de Nueva Hampshire, encabezado por Peter Marsh, como
modelo.
VISION VISIÓN
The Toby Project will fund the operation of 5 mobile spay/neuter vans to provide free and low-
cost spay/neuter services to those communities that supply or surrender the most animals to
municipal shelters. El Proyecto Toby financiará la operación de esterilización, de 5 de móviles /
furgonetas neutro para proporcionar libre y bajo costo de esterilización / castración de
servicios a las comunidades que el suministro o entrega de la mayoría de los animales a los
refugios municipales. Additionally, we will provide the community outreach and education
necessary to influence our target audience. Además, se proporcionará a la extensión a la
comunidad y la educación necesarias para influir en nuestro público objetivo. Success for The
Toby Project means the prevention of thousands of unwanted births and an end to the killing
of these innocent animals. El éxito del proyecto Toby significa la prevención de miles de
nacimientos no deseados y poner fin a la matanza de estos inocentes animales.
INSPIRATION INSPIRACIÓN
The Toby Project was inspired by the personal and professional experiences of Dr. El Proyecto
Toby fue inspirado por el profesional y experiencias personales de la Dra. Andrew J. Kaplan
whose compassion and integrity have earned him and his veterinary practice, City Veterinary
Care , both critical acclaim and a loyal following. Andrew J. Kaplan , cuya compasión y la
integridad se han ganado a él ya su práctica veterinaria, la ciudad de Atención Veterinaria ,
tanto elogios de la crítica y un público fiel.
Dr. Kaplan's accidental meeting and subsequent adoption of Toby -- a mixed-breed dog,
mislabeled as "unadoptable" and hours away from euthanasia -- changed the course of both of
their lives. es accidental reunión el Dr. Kaplan y posterior adopción de Toby - una raza de
perro-mezclado, confundido con el "unadoptable" y horas de distancia de la eutanasia -
cambió el curso de la vida de ambos. Toby put a penetrating face on the animal
overpopulation crisis that had been troubling Dr. Kaplan for years. Toby ponerle un rostro
penetrante sobre la crisis de sobrepoblación de animales que habían sido preocupante el Dr.
Kaplan durante años.
A devoted supporter of rescue organizations, and one who has worked tirelessly to help ease
the burden of their medical care expenses, Dr. Kaplan is dedicating the rest of his professional
career toward solving the #1 killer of dogs and cats in this city and country - pet
overpopulation. Un partidario devoto de organizaciones de rescate, y el que ha trabajado
incansablemente para ayudar a aliviar la carga de sus gastos de atención médica, el Dr.
Kaplan es dedicar el resto de su carrera profesional hacia la solución de que el asesino # 1 de
los perros y gatos en esta ciudad y el país - sobrepoblación de mascotas.
Spay / Neuter Counter Esteriliza / Neutro contra
THE TOBY PROJECT HAS SPAYED or NEUTERED EL PROYECTO Toby ha esterilizado o castrado
3756 3756
ANIMALS TO DATE ANIMALES HASTA LA FECHA
3756 dogs and cats left to breed and multiply unchecked 3756 perros y gatos dejaron de
reproducirse y multiplicarse sin control
can yield as many offspring as: puede producir en muchos descendientes que:
60,096 in 1 year 60.096 En 1 año
480,768 in 2 years 480.768 En 2 años
1,923,072 in 3 years 1.923.072 en 3 años
7,692,288 in 4 years 7.692.288 en 4 años7.692.288
46,153 ,728 in 5 years 46.153, en 5 años
728
251,652,000 In 6 years en 6 años
251.652.000
Consider the following: Considere lo siguiente:
In New York City alone, more than 14,000 dogs and cats will be killed this year in our
municipal animal shelter system En Nueva York, más de 14.000 perros y gatos serán
asesinados este año en nuestro sistema municipal refugio de animales
In New York City shelters, approximately 60 dogs and cats are killed each day due to
overpopulation En Nueva York los refugios de la ciudad, a unos 60 perros y gatos mueren cada
día debido a la sobrepoblación
The reduction of shelter populations due to the prevention of unwanted births will allow an
increase in the time and resources available for finding suitable adoptive homes for shelter
animals La reducción de las poblaciones de refugio debido a la prevención de embarazos no
deseados, permitirá un aumento en el tiempo y los recursos disponibles para encontrar
hogares adoptivos adecuados para los animales de la vivienda
Prevention of unwanted births reduces the expenditure of your tax dollars used to house and
kill New York City's dog and cat surplus Prevención de embarazos no deseados reduce el gasto
de los dólares de sus impuestos destinados a recibir y matar a perros de Nueva York y el
excedente de gato
 Urban Cat League
Urban Cat League - "Friends of the Forgotten Feline" Helping NYC ...
A New York City based non-profit organization dedicated to the welfare of urban street
cats.
www.urbancatleague.org/ - Cached - Similar
When contacting us, include as much of the following information as possible, as well as a
brief summary of your specific concerns and needs:
• Location of the Colony or situation: Borough and cross streets?
• Approximate number of cats?
• Is food and water being provided daily, and by whom?
• Do the cats have shelter from the elements?
• Do you know if the surrounding community is supportive, apathetic or hostile?
• What is your ability to help hands-on with trapping the cats, or perhaps financially,
to hire others to trap and neuter the cats, or intervene to help?
To get our advice with your situation, or help connecting to help from the feral cat group
nearest you, send the email to us at: UrbanCatLeague@gmail.com

Urban Cat League - Socializing feral kittens

Small cages or carriers don't work well since the cats always feel cornered when we reach in
and they have no room to make the important “mind shift” where ...
www.urbancatleague.org/SocialKittens.htm - Cached - Similar

Some Helpful Guidelines for Socializing Feral Kittens

Kittens under 8 weeks can usually be socialized without much difficulty following the
guidelines detailed below. Kittens over 8 weeks of age who’ve had no positive interaction with
humans often take much longer to socialize. However, these same guidelines are often
effective up to 6 months and often even with adult ferals.

Location – The best places to socialize kittens are anywhere where the socializer can get on
the same level and comfortably interact with the kittens without the kittens feeling towered
over, “backed into a corner,” or hiding out of reach. Many large-dog kennels are roomy
enough for the socializer to sit inside and have the added advantage of more frequent
exposure to typical human activity if placed in a busy room of the house. Most bathrooms
work very well although they are isolated from continual household activity. A small room
without hiding spots under couches and beds or behind furniture can also work very well.
Radio and television sounds can contribute to getting outdoor ferals accustomed to the indoor
environment.

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The double decker wire catteries on wheels can work very well to start socialization but at
some point you must let the kittens out in a confined space where they can choose to
approach you. They can be wheeled into a small room to be let out for hands on work or
wheeled back into the living area for exposure to general activity between socialization
sessions. Try to choose the set up which give the kittens the most “quality” exposure to you
and household activity.

Small cages or carriers don’t work well since the cats always feel cornered when we reach in
and they have no room to make the important “mind shift” where THEY decide to approach US
out of self-interest in order to get the food they desire. They need to have the option NOT to
be near you in order to make that decision to approach. We have some limited equipment
information on our website where to obtain traps, handling gloves and socialization pens.
 CATS SOCIALIZE THEMSELVES BY CHOICE !
We only provide the incentive……….FOOD.
FOOD is the most important tool to facilitate the socialization process. Growing kittens have
an insatiable appetite which will give them the courage to approach you and be touched when
they might normally never allow you anywhere near them. NEVER put food down and walk
away. It takes away any incentive for them to welcome you into their world. NO FREE RIDES!
The following guidelines are not “hard, fast rules.” You may find that the kittens skip to
advanced stages very quickly or you may find they follow a sequence of their own design.
Evaluation - If the kittens are healthy, using the litter box, and will eat in front of you, you can
safely begin delaying meals just enough to give you the advantage of hunger. (If not, you may
decide to give them a “free ride” until this situation stabilizes. Once they seem calmer or the
vet gives the OK, you may begin the “tough love” stage of socialization where you space out
the meals so that the kittens are eager to learn.)
Tough love – Never put food down and walk away. If the kittens will eat in your presence,
progressively pull the dish as close to you as possible. Stay with the kittens until they have
finished eating and then take any remaining food away with you when you leave. Always leave
water of course, but NO FOOD unless you are there with them.
Eating off your finger - When the kittens have progressed to eating from a dish right beside
you with your hand touching the dish, start offering something tasty off your finger. Gerber or
Beechnut baby food are favorites in Turkey, Chicken or Beef flavors. You may want to try this
in place of step 2 if they won’t move close to you to eat from the dish. The order is of no
importance as long as they are improving on some level. Be flexible but don’t let them hold
you hostage at the stage of their choice. “Get tough,” and make them work for it. Until they
realize the Baby Food’s consistency, they may want to gulp bites before they learn to lick it.
Let them learn to lick from a spoon, popsicle stick or tongue depressor if they want to chew
your finger instead of lick at first. They figure out to lick not bite quickly, but in the meantime,
ouch! Your hand reaching close to them, without them retreating in fear is the lesson they are
learning through hand feeding.
Lead them onto your lap – Once they are used to eating off your finger, use that to lead them
up into contact with your body by their choice. You can also try putting a dish in your lap and
let the entire litter climb up onto you to eat. The braver ones will start and the shy ones may
need to be worked with individually at their level. Lead the braver ones as close as possible
and see if they will make eye contact with you while licking from your finger. That’s a biggie
for them! Put the fast learners in a carrier to work with the shier ones. Put a dish inside and
close the door on them, if they aren’t quite ready to be picked up easily.
Initiate Contact – Initiate contact at the beginning of a session where the kittens are
particularly hungry and eagerly engrossed in eating. Start with them eating from a dish or
while eating off the finger and eventually progress to touching them and petting while they
are in your lap eating. Start in the head and shoulder area only. If s/he runs off, lure them
back with baby food on the finger and any bad experience should be soon forgotten. (This
approach to handle mistakes works at any stage. Back up to a stage that they’ve mastered
and work back up to where they “freaked-out.” Don’t stop the session until they’ve forgotten
the bad experience and are happily doing one of the steps with which they feel comfortable.)
Preparation for lifting – Expand petting and touching around the head and shoulders by
moving to touching the underbelly to desensitize them for being picked up. Also try nudging
them from one side to the other while they are engrossed in eating. Just having your hands
near them and gently pushing them around is an important preparation to being picked up.
Moving on the ground - Set up two dishes and gently lift/scoot a kitten the short distance from
one dish to the other, very close to the ground. If the kitten is engrossed in eating s/he won’t
mind being lifted if it goes smoothly and quickly. If not, lure ‘em back, back up and start over.
Picking them up – Start sitting on the floor so the first real lift is still close to the floor from
their point of view. Have a full jar of baby food opened and ready before you try the first pick-
up. Try it when they are engrossed in eating right next to you rather than scrambling after
 Don’t leave food out for your cat to feed on 24 hours a day.
Their digestive tract needs time to digest properly. If they are
constantly eating they will gain weight that interferes with proper
examination by a vet because of the fat covering the organs that
the vet needs to feel during an examination.
Bad Idea I’ve noticed that during the heat any canned food that’s left out
attracts flys > that lay eggs > that hatch into yucky maggoty that
look like worms things within a few hours. Likewise a
sympathetic feeder who puts out left over “take out” is leaving
bug infested food if the plate is left out for many hours. Bacteria
is another good reason for taking up canned food although I’ve
seen these critters at the bottom of The dry food bowl too! UGH!

Don’t abandon cats in boxes outside of businesses or vet’s offices. These abandoned cats sometimes climb out of the box and end
up under the wheels of a car. They often end up at the CACC
because they are in essence, thrown out like garbage. Don’t
make someone else do your dirty work – take them to the
CACC yourself or take the responsibility for them and do the
Really Bad Idea right thing. Don’t FORSAKE animals – it’s an act of cruelty.

Leave out plenty of fresh water in a ceramic bowl,

Good Ideas Good Idea

especially during the summer months. If you

feed only dry food that’s another good reason for leaving out lots of water.
Indoor/outdoor cats are subject to poisoning either from Anti-Freeze (which tastes sweet to them) or
from Illegal Poisoning for rats and other creatures.

IT’S AGAINST THE LAW TO POISON ANIMALS IN NYS

GREAT IDEA:
Got Fleas?
Get Diatomaceous Earth! (Food Grade)

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Deadly for fleas; bed bugs . . .
Get it online
Coccidia and Kittens (Source: The Pet Health Care Library)
The information presented here pertains to Isospora species.
What on Earth are Coccidia?
Coccidia are single celled organisms that infect the intestine. They are microscopic parasites
detectable on routine fecal tests in the same way that worms are, but Coccidia are not worms and they
are not visible to the naked eye. Coccidia infection causes a watery diarrhea that is
sometimes bloody and can be a life-threatening problem to an especially young or small
pet.
Where do Coccidia Come from? Oocysts (pronounced o’o-sists), like those shown above, are passed in
stool. In the outside world, the oocysts begin to mature or sporulate. After they have adequately
matured, they become infective to any host (dog or cat) that accidentally swallows them. To be more
precise, Coccidia come from fecal-contaminated ground.
They are swallowed when a pet grooms/licks the dirt off itself. In some cases, sporulated oocysts are
swallowed by mice and the host is infected when it eats the mouse. Coccidia infection is especially
common in young animals housed in groups (in shelters, rescue areas, kennels, etc.) This is a common
parasite and is not necessarily a sign of poor husbandry.
What Happens Inside the Host?
The sporulated oocyst breaks open and releases eight sporozoites. These sporozoites each finds an
intestinal cell and begins to reproduce inside it. Ultimately, the cell is so full of what are called
merozoites that it bursts, releasing the merozoites that seek out their own intestinal cells and the
process begins again. It is important to note how thousands of intestinal cells can become
infected and destroyed as a result of accidentally swallowing a single oocyst. As the
intestinal cells are destroyed in larger and larger numbers, intestinal function is disrupted and a
bloody, watery diarrhea results.
The fluid loss can be dangerously dehydrating to a young or small pet.
How Are Coccidia Detected? A routine fecal test is a good idea for any new puppy or kitten
whether there are signs of diarrhea or not as youngsters are commonly parasitized. This
sort of test is also a good idea for any patient with diarrhea.
Coccidia are microscopic and a test is necessary to rule them in. It should be noted that small
numbers of Coccidia can be hard to detect so just because a fecal sample tests negative,
this does not mean that the pet is not infected (Tests should be done with solid feces,
diarrhea can mask the parasite.).
Sometimes several fecal tests are performed, especially in a young pet with a refractory diarrhea;
parasites may not be evident until later in the course of the condition. How is Coccidiosis Treated? We
do not have any medicine that will kill Coccidia; only the patient’s immune system can do that. But we
can give medicines called coccidiostats that can inhibit coccidial reproduction.
Once the numbers stop expanding, it is easier for the patient’s immune system to catch up and wipe
the infection out. This also means, though, that the time it takes to clear the infection depends on how
many Coccidia organisms there are to start with and how strong the patient’s immune system is.
A typical treatment course lasts about a week or two, but it is important to realize that the medication
should be given until the diarrhea resolves plus an extra couple of days.
Medication should be given for at least 5 days total. Sometimes courses as long as a month are
needed. The use of sulfa drugs in pregnancy can cause birth defects. Sulfa drug use can also lead to
false positive test results for urine glucose.
Can People or other Pets Become Infected?
While there are species of 34occidian that can infect people (Toxoplasma and Cryptosporidium, for example), the Isospora species of dogs and
cats are not infective to people. Other pets may become infected from exposure to infected fecal matter but it is important to note that this is
usually an infection of the young (i.e. the immature immune system tends to let the Coccidia infection reach large numbers whereas the mature
immune system probably will not.) In most cases, the infected new puppy or kitten does not infect the resident adult animal.

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