Ackrontedge is 8 Prete CwMPTER | The Basics 14 The Rub-O Two Methoce 16 Tools and Equipment 20 Fabre Cty age Taking Measurements Sewing Essentats omrTEn 2 Patterning Skirts 28 The Source Skit 29 ‘The Paper Rub-Of Method 47 She antions 49 Casual Denim Skirt 0. Woot Tweed Penc Skit 54 Sinped A-Line Suit S57 Reversible Cotton Wrap kit 60 Cotton iae-Cu Skit CHMPTER 3 Patterning Dresses a % 8% °° 2 % * ‘The Source ress “Tha Fabri Rub-OH Methas Dress Variations Retro v-Neck Dress ‘Line Maney Ores Inner Aucrey Princes Seam Dress Vintage Stop "Ti Yeu Drop Dress Pin-Up Hater Dress cHNPTER 4, Patterning Blouses 1 15 6 28 » os 1% ‘Ts Source Blouse ‘louse Variations Green Apple Blouse with Cuts Lite Black Blouse wth Dans Cap Seve Sumer Sky Blouse Rockall Hater Top Sshant TunewpreR 5. Patterning Handbags wo ug 150 12 6 1% 60 18 166 mm mm ‘The SoureeHoncbag Hendbag Variations ‘Bamboo Handbag 50lock Handbag Ladyike Tote ‘oss Bog Furcluteh Resources Glossay Index tre Comersion Chart‘Today. we live in such abundance that anything we need can be purchased, not just atthe local store, but with a single click on the computer lin cur pajamas, no less| and delivery guaranteed for the nextday. Tis is ‘ wonderful thing—except that we've forgotten how to make things for ‘ourselves. The conveniences of modern lving have all but eliminated the empowerment and jy that comes from making something with what we hhave on hand, Creative skills that were once handed down from generation to generation were lost, seen fora time as dowdy and obsolete. Thankfully thats changing nen asa tg spent nors making thes an abr furnishings for my aries ‘swe the cases many Kd my geertan wares, Kieran shears ar ‘mymaciom ais revere spencing man along sheroon lg Conartedl unde ihe qtng rome my babyaters spre rn, wong here she erage ene tiroupn pers bang. tntng. nd hang pace at os Imeallee found ase oy sang alls he tent deprtents costume stp. saan enn bt "apg" Fat ptoing” tosses orb men cou the ght ater wold tty make my ows ong garments ae a Sunmetpb ara echt the sha Sees Festal nog ne my ice of Ihewade fromthe carte designe, lesnestonte sion vp onc lepers For ‘sone trons ar wo dapemusin to cet pat ram sacha ede thats cot artes Sse my care Mer ing ry MPAin cose desig Began aeaterintenai ohe George Sree Pasa n New Jorany While resashog nd pally so oe pecs fra show a Eos eral ous n Maran, nat oat weed Nitec Ah tag th thename ofan cone Amarin spores’ dngne’ mv sarhesta the ee Whe aed the mnage wy ecg spores ese wou apse she espn “They tome mhere andre’ nga fee ens thant ead at apravoncin be feed anyter nd hat water joe afedng seu sar working fom heme of el tno eure ine non magne an esing geomet cong spaion ad are as Starting pot fe news a lng a te vote soeore cues aya ster tear asl toue teats lr stra Senge ibe \Witasown Theatre orl nMassachset owned tgs ping cote ware a aout calor wasn nh rnd ote pater em yong onto nade Pe one tat aera ndsprad ound tris Tre ole tang et os poate ‘Aer waing theatre fo sea years mores OL gts and agen workin fim Pacts andT¥ Onmy ies day onthe ob asa patermateriterorthe sents doe fom tte” panera Sune cost dager, Mein Row hanes me seaty vag ake prkeinared ‘tern, Suestinng. The jc hed econ a sgnnure pace rhe very chad ands gon Amtech SGostaltelne: she fadpureste ect rand reseutesiooiesnsémeianake agate ull lhe prk is would ror to bea common rune Men nd ter agers, Sma Aa Aragh eit ate eyo producing alt shone usd Seth something he sreay nen or so ison ned th sho s rotucer, Bonne Tore, nese el gon for ared-ape er ‘nce she ned aor a ees eey te ning ard tobe crane she came tome“iter favor T-shirt and si, ake me sameting thal can wer tothe Emmys that fala eam ueaing ths eens arto be sls to ug 368" Mena sexes meta rut he Tah ond ute he resin pater orate acres of an eieercnary ek chon, th justalit beating atthe wists nda sgl lack stk slp underneath, Bonne ened elegant. Understated ard ci nd—most mpertant—tet confor Tin mos fy exparence wh the ub-ff teh ques when Iwas asked oop) ‘stage germents for sim ond teeion Fin ime are vey ited ard we conde cut ‘dom esearch and derlopment tine ty bildng. cleats orvrous Caroters we had {shape ae size that worked, crest aruba pllern ad hen make alle gare iraeren fabri sgt wayne deta along the way, Using thera techque, | "Pade ant cles fr varus ator ng munca eluding Masons, ohn Lthgoe ohn ‘Travel Harry Belafonte, Roses Joa Sle, Emma Themen, apd Briget Fangs, When arking 25 gatemaarfiter fr he ate costume designer Richard Hornung Sor ‘ing Stones fm No needed constuctclthing forthe Pat Non character, played by ‘ares Joan len. Frihe test iting. Retard and hs arent Mark Gries and Ke ‘dara: brs virions geen: cher cose abt fv and we plead ore aed ‘em ith te rua fesngue to ceste Jean tenty eat cosines The anoon {lane rom th it iting waste ta forall my wk the Pt Maoh era. ‘he of my proudest profesional moments cara ust et es ar when Joan was somite orn Osea lr Bat! Supporting Arar fore role Noon, The Fashion nt GF Dasign & Merchandising Los gles held its annua exh, The Art of Matin Picture Caste Design anda my delight sare the costumes hed made ar the fm wer ude ‘Shogsing a neta sb str, eroard a cenerstionbetneen Sv women wh asses ‘he enh. Ore sido the ther "They used actual tage pce or Jean Alo nth Tess ise an yau cold el rm te centro ply smd It te costae ‘iain and at wih rete sl an recs econ was cionng cat my fet gfandmathar ld ideas care ares 2 silt sewing erpements, maordted sein pattems, rd newspace peings banded {oyster wi im sip ef prota ato. hon unre the ppg ede whic arles {konpa couldnt Geciher heerlen tomy Grea grandme atm! ached hough “han | eaed hat thy waron't jot aries but gtr se had copa ram 2 earie ows! rencaly wnat nod sted nase ae professional was ahavschald ness ‘ober, someting se canmmanpac ts ren dear rpaoing 3 ate te pases Gown io suseauentgarerstios In my grant grandmnnar= day. ape pater hada be ‘aioreered sory bathe ora tvugh he hase youhad a pertacty ged ove that ft el? Al ourneeded to dows race a garments shapes and make ay cesar aduntents ‘or whatever sijyoudesreu Wine feared he purpna of ove rape of ope, a3 bondwith my fst granma nats feu explain, tues sabre Sao ‘rooster esi tre parentWHY LEARN THE RUB-OFF TECHNIQUE? ean hk many goed recon fo writing a book about oping grants using the ub technque The rs aang Nt! you se, you mast ely seat hove nour sein test ot the mates needed. The second thal ives gating te constucton of vilage garments il (ge you a extremely alibi cucstonnsewag tech ques~! led st lat now Shout taieing by prarring counties aerstone and Gupestios on wntae ng. Honevr ne mest compeling reason lar ne rub eens concensne garments you and veo waar Weal have efor shirt or rasa we ugh sera aso go anna ts us rantin evarynay—and ne mater how ard we search, we cant frame ora anyahere nso, weal av that one cue we adore and want a Mae Ir ery ear. of aa be seo ese tn nteresting woe Nowyou can! ners nehing Ig errs sitter bao sso cesta ag i armen yurstt‘As in any discipline, there's the traditional, academic ‘approach—and the more improvisational, shorthand ‘method, which develops from the daily practice of applying a sil to real-life situations, Most books about ‘making flat patterns use the textbook approach to teach the science of patternmaking: Using set formulas you take measurements, fix them onto flat plane and add the necessary curves based on standards designed to fit commen body measurements. The more ireehand and artistic approach (and my preferred method) involves raping fabric onto a dress form to create a patter. But, there is 2 third patternmaking technique that is often overiooked. This method—a closely guarded secret among fashion and castume protessionals— uplicates various pieces and elements of an existing garment by making what's known in the industry as a rub-oft” But really, there's nothing so secret about it Arubcoff is simply 3 tracing that duplicates shapes by transferring the points from one plane ithe garment] to corresponding paints on another plane [a paper or fabric surface). In addition, the rub-off technique allows for investigation into the processes that were used to create the original garment, Rubbing-off provides a starting Point for creating a garment that you know already works and saves you from having to reinvent the wheel. There are two ciflerent rub-off methods. neTHop 1: The Paper Rub-Off Bie oe port tr romper ct powering et Beebe eter os ic eaaengl5l moc pete ‘eprint op aweTHoD 2: The Fabric Rub-Off be coe ttle ec tasty ECs pearl peta clte pra Soe men ao ash etna ee oper rivet nr ever menpdte en pope an sas yous he ure dageabc rp inc ear pater on near cn au te aig agar nthe {vnc he resloreranoe pring raging eatery hme yout ptm moran, ang pease ons perdeaenap | ters talento ore eat rou our pj kn a he geen {sath ror ned mph eth ppe irate psn ont | faten nn ie ‘efor tata nae aig min ater tc (Sains grmutaneracng esearch soe i cay orn per ne eae negatezsrin oss ‘Somme terony seat nahin ate ons uryou've been sewing for a while, the tools needed for rub-off projects ‘ot, abtaining these materials wll make your sewing much easier! As with any crat, there are always larger, fancier, and more professional versions of all ofthe tools and supplies list here. These are great if you have the space and budget, but you can rub off ust as effectively with basic sewing tools and are materials you probably already have on hand, material. eager ud mens ot te Sn year ag (oer cane atest amt aoe Ssoandnesnee ‘Sec enly mere senator amore sen rte ane he osc eget sgl ‘hegre (© ager tne ta hc ‘me ores (Part arg mt er oct on, ri eaters oe (© eine orsanding meer (8 Tacs ne tomate ens (© fe punch oma oles inn peter oe ‘Storming nto oro match ceecipanpace © hanenrnhertomate cen entrmastae en (rai hear mrs om ese icra note (@ hee naira moa arc (Pec yes operator {© maser toi yor al pater hp ane Wve marta materi da ‘mets a perma mene om Someese ae my neering are Sent fom mre app es 18 Seip tne sarc ie Pig oneasttnonratam ene wiht Singeak 0 ane aso ean pe ater ped te ag pres ‘eesti pi ae Tepe aes A Ueno main roe tac rte ‘Shpeonrnecte (ees sonatas rapt ‘ng rt a tng eae eae ered ‘oc inn tne ns tiperoer steak rere are patrn! (enum psp and sah peta emerson os nrrtce (Petre wig tohld he permet ile cating‘when rubbing off, the mast important thing to remember: before you begin your project that you'll abtain much better results ifyou make your copy in the same fabric as the source garment. Ofcourse, there ae always ‘exceptions—and it's always fun to experiment—but 35 8 ‘general rule, I recommend working with a fabric similar in type tothe original, This section reviews two of the ‘most common types af fabric and grain nes, Wovens isos mening terse o grated pater X yard. depending on en. Aaslens "gue aden Grain Lines cher very npr etre ot be ran i Fabric ‘hosaight lean feng pend So Asancs ah wall othe sehage ge ote cel abc Fata fais the Bisissery ene an pay and okt the nay. Tre iz ak istuncby marhing ines ry Inedere arg tate seine ge. Fabric ats cat nth ras ais ess crapey an mar bay a Newtihecen ganaierconteimpwrtcawehe Sal erYou can estimate the yardage you'll need for a project bby measuring the length ofthe individual pattern pieces: ‘and then adding them together: Remember, mare than ‘one pattern piece will usually fit across the width of the fabric; as a result, some pieces willbe nested together. You can also lay out pattern pieces withthe grain lines running in the correct directions and measure the length you'll need forthe garment ne easing yardage hats banda the back a connec fatten yo que Settler's each hag as nto yordage fecway st Bove, or ess. Facet ned be tent acu stnenextensig yrds nthe so tend patrn BE eect ttt yt eg lt gris ech bless. ll the printer he tr and ane areon ata aera eda Nap =p nurtac ne rico founéon pag vat ford Ugh rts eran epecing en nhthr fe nap run up sen he ap rating inte same recon. The loving eps wl = $ovsnaccarste esate ss toon much abc edage ark eed or 1 sessure he wih of te arc jour planning ta sea make a Ion rn ta pe pt og wee r 2 nyt ne pater paces cat win ne gran nes uring whe se ieectn gral tote ength the ae 3 race heluge peat et adnan the ale pce srunathe ingerones te crsar bie Dor ret stele ay ne, oars 4 once you naval one ices neste together within he brie with, rear te engin ane ces tpener The cea the esp epic Sato oy arate 5 ine ttriis napped or has 2 cei repeat percarto the ttl estate. Far age designs ‘fatropet ss ten a8 60 prert. cand natre oyu fen st sy measure ‘tough ate of ne torso ane stirs “sain ofa sie oreor bina 930 seme rain at cng {eset messvrng the dgoral length ct ‘he skit Co hist east rom he wit on re sie fh boty agonal ace eas Aswhere the hem lle or you alee ‘heater pce, js mesure leg te stern gay ron et oeBefore you begin any custor-sewing project, you need to take measurements, especially if you plan toalter the pattern after you make it. Make sure you take measurements over the ype of underwear you, ‘or the wearer, will be wearing withthe garment. Wear ‘something close-iting and measure 1 around the fullest part of the bust, 2 around the waist at the belly button and, 3 around the fullest part ofthe hips. Also take any other measurements you may need, such as from the waist to above the knee, waist to the knee. waist to below the knee, waist to the ankle, and waist tothe floor If you're making a jacket or a blouse, you'll ‘want to measure the sleeve length from the shoulder to the wrist. Custom-made clathing shops have extensive ‘measurement sheets that you may want to check out. in ener joss mainte ‘Semen fyetimare sar pects ‘etnine nee yumay amare nee ‘Renorenet bt some apa toe Soa rere SSyotenttane che ertinbe ieee ‘Spay Pan beat rw maureen yaaThere are a few basic principles that are important to know when sewing without a commercial pattern and instructions, Once you master these, you can apply them in many itferent situations. The following techniques are the foundation for many ofthe sewing steps well cover in this book, Aside from maintaining consistency within the stitching, the mast important, underiying step that will determine how polished a finished {garment will ok is pressing As you move on to each new step, the {garment needs tobe property pressed to ensure a smooth, well-constructed garment. Skip this important step and the seams, which need to be incorporated into each other, wil not jain nicely and will create a clunky, less elegant-looking garment. Concave Curves thesoon clonencr itor tent Yl tn sds prot terior peer tars boars ene cing tres rah sar be exes seam alone an een Sead tT so he sent her {2a riey wt ling toe tern a nap arama ten ram he ih coe ened ‘ings 8 eseTHE SOURCE SKIRT begin our lessons inthe rub-off technique with 2 skirt, as its the simplest garmi The source skirt used inthis p il skirt that has a straight shape with no flare. and is constructed with only four piaces: a frat, two back halves, and a waistband. Faur darts shape the waist, 2 kick pleat on the center back seam allows for ease of movement, and a traditional waistband laps ever and buttons with aside zipper. There's also a small, rounded patch pocket on the front, which | took aut for simpli however, itis added backin the Casual Denim Skirt variation Isee page 49] ont to pattern and sew ect isa classic, wool ‘aniog degrees flee tres notre nave eahepes, rn Srapht an ‘amairg unter rom{Alt that's needed forthe paper rub-off method is ‘a work surface that can be pinned into. ve used variety of surfaces in my career. including large, gridded cardboard cutting boards that can be found in ‘most fabric stores, Eventually | permanently covered ry cutting table with 2x 4-foot acoustic ceiling tes ‘purchased from a home improvement store. | then covered the ties with kraft paper. which Keeps the ‘surface nice and tidy, | can Lay out my patterning paper and gin through the garment and into the paper and table Ifyou don’t want to cover an entire table, cover a single acoustical tile with kraft paper or use a fading ‘gridded cardboard cutting mat—both can easily be Stored under a bed or in a closet when notin use, Once, you have a work surface, you're ready to begin. | i nace ening to Seren arring 2 garment is exactly what it ber tracing around your hand "388 child and using the tracing in project? You were simply transferring from one plane to another plane. The same ‘are applied for the paper rub-off. In areas. je able to lay the garment out fat and trace Jitwith a pencil, you do just that, The dificulty wien you need to trace around an entire piece fa garment that's connected to another piece, These "areas are delineated by placing pins through the line you ‘want to trace into the paper underneath. By doing this, you're transferring the information from one plane (the Source garment to ancther plane the paper! THE SKIRT FRONT ata plce tra poe at i bly accommo he sir oe fering Sino nul pees tha mane utero oe ‘Symmes he co 0 pateed nthe, lay tart wh he Largest reas Fro an wor onade smaiest oye sour arerwcet begin tthe ar i ote paer and mat 3 traght etc oe tha unger ha ib eng ote sr the batt he ns rete an shape by sowing a acne perpen athe fs: “hese re nest when oul be sncaring esi ean ati sinpuen re sroptot gen ee 2 até ns conn te canter trot amma abrevted 5 CL Pn {hotigceamstapthr and mace ure fe oss ae ace tne geemnton our werk sce and pin tthe vet ne Tis wieepreon ne canter nt ee 4 sor ou aeteres he kaon the centr ant in. scth it eros he pa. sing ay wile a you gn ace a ew Bi ts “gain ert teen ornare anurans er gto caret anyakenng th paternal nut tur i the [Foie runs own he cevter tot ‘Bow. cap ns heh ed an grec and pewter on5 canine to seth he ket nd inte ater edges ofthe nt Ing sures ogp he gra Ure righ and square Conia sit rund tre pce, aking surtha yur net creating sles he ski youden' ake is precut.he opeate skit ay be muse thanthe ong. ath on ahr etues suchas coeures cts, “sr you go For now us ns ndacumen the pein he eco ‘elLbe oding the arsine the ater ater se age land wl ate Searle paler for th wt ne ge 31 THE SKIRT BACK ede pied al ate ean andre th pn onset ne patra pce de Takes near lie paper oy ton ora ‘ego by determing the sagt of gain. nar sure sir the laren on he centr bck ce armen sbrenaed v= pth ie sears. Thon saw aachwardsL shape on ou! sheet of ‘srdoin ecko tee. ve tog ard marking a you rh hr Hn king te dara apr, aay slats snc i has hk pet at he crtr bck sa Measure the lhe ck ls with urate determine om much ro. he Sear toga he plat Notice hw rh lea etre op imate center bark eam ana rke 3 marl het Thies oyu oa. Now, ang orgie rule mesure he Uance eter oboe whl pet ra he ceter brs sears erm ina new paal othe center back star T sth vier hour kck ea Oren he ng of ep the pet by ap rom he hem athe ie andar eae tele ‘hose asreents tee st neo he pape’ shown ustaon Yul ead hese detiania the poper sera pte re sep Aeris pace smarts et taste ners ono the (© these ran pag sawing i cds chiral © Te bc poet naan egane heneTHE WAISTBAND toutend irs trp retange ad compat yest a he ‘rund yes sry esere sora engih and ard dau rts shat fat ptper using cla grater, Sgn Sigs rcerain whch rrte tra np isp ali nocd stereo Ine outeredes toc ractong Mesairchow much te waste rage pstte spe Ther renarrated your Now donate sight inex th poh rectangles he op tothe soervactoad yee per areas soe Slap tomer bark se pages 2-8 oh Wl Tae Par Skit “nson ora ceripon thom pp saad ion ‘welts lacing he reper inthe cert, nich in aon obese ‘eos ere compeussslaceren Sieg asses.Aller you've transferred al of your pin marks ta the per, take a ruler and pencil and begin to connect the in holes to make the paper skirt pattern [see A]. Use a ve tool to draw the line ofthe hip and the top of the rt, Draw the lines lightly, as you're just sketching at is point—-we'll be changing some of them to addin rts and seam allowances later (see Bl sunt 2 a (aera (rence esa tot and secreting eatADDING AND ADJUSTING DART MEASUREMENTS ity souc shit na dart examine ham rom the i Because neve capedtetiseacmensans fhe set solo we need toad ‘eektothe pater the aroun ot rich hasbeen sect he farts you dnt dhs and js om dart ove the instesine ou ‘Spe he pest garantie smal 1Ltne tap meas or lean assure pth an argh _ssnar lane nour cat, atm sti ineh oe po tt ‘a moaar ite lac tring Ynage Gomera Moser” Fi on age Mer singe str ro ring cr he carat be Biot tote carter ort seam anger smecth aaa staat Falleanay fom the wrtl ine an the poper aaah op edge Wan, CMAN ea ete cron it on, Ereaing he ptr We sauce hated ve emerson eck me ‘he certer Font sam Ths arcs equal toon lhe da Draw ‘theameunt bck oto sit pte ae een n lusraton Th orig Frise eset matin. be less ree {Womacanethesbdoren and the al ofthe tok othe ie st Side sears Nate The inet ts rosa the son astaon reposts that he fabric needs te cut on he Zuserre same matoatec eset bck ‘Soars stots bert up, oe aroun, ste nearest an ‘hearer iron th sagt gran. Te Gat ote dar snl then brad at ht. Trang pe tar ats oe use in eterreraing anders ary tine you rie your raha kh by Freauring and wag Sag edge ara cues fora more eeant pei A ia aeiaionono th cer rartgaerts remind ou that tho ©The shit hn pte etd thon ne er pee needs tone cate teleFOR A MODERN FIT TERING VINTAGE GARMENT: ‘One ofthe mest common fiting problems when rubbing of vintage source ‘garments is a discrepancy between the period's sihouete and todays ‘adern bod you tke to wear girdles with garter bets and bullet bras, then by alt means go for the fi ofthe perio silhouette, However, ifyou plan to wear modern undergarments with your creation hen the mast common _and hell alteration is to soften the severe, nipped-in waist. ‘As you can ee with our source skit in this project, there is 2 ‘charming overabundance of darts, which were used to achieve the nipped __inwait favored by the pre-bra-burring generation. Ifyou account for the removal o thee ders by adding the measurements tothe side or back seams, youll achieve fullness around the belly area that is generally considered unflattering on the modern body. The best fix for this to “eliminate one ofthe darts on each side ofthe font waist, How do you know “which dart to eliminate? Keep the darts closest o# princess line on each ‘side—the darts that are the closest tothe center in the pattern. You can sn splitthe diference by redrawing a single dart between the old ones, “fat 2 more pleasing distribution. Yeu would then adjust he pattern to Ccompanste forthe extra fabricin the waist dimension by removing the ‘same amount from the sde seams, or by just leaving the cure in the side seam that’s created inthe rub-of from the former dart. For more ‘information, see “Adding and Adjusting Dart Measurements” on page 34 Two darts may still workin the back, depen onthe fullness the ‘wearer may need in the inished garment. I your vintage source garment has the same overly pully area across the seat. then remove a dart on e2ch ‘side ofthe waist inthe back as welLABELING THE PATTERN PIECES Youre olatl ach fur sate lces wm the garment are, Pecerame,anyapeclneuca on acest a he 9pm ches ang a" Yu can ake aay ora fw, notation 90% think wie ep oye. ust remeber hl ts much ens ol ‘re plces paar etermne what shel be Sen oat wh he ater attachea hansen you ake he patetn ava Yu can easy (tearureeyouravon tater aurea care closet ne sa ici ay roscas oor nettons ht gue youn the sev x ieitiaton te nina pes ee E tana matching one Pen he cee foto th eon SF. ant 09 making Your nay around he ceier back 2 ryouwou te tomate any charges toe ie of ie of tei, etn ore you 2 seam lana yuo dupa a suzce Serre direct, carpare to he memset he ator Conte Iarkng each remaining ce vt yeu have your new stern. Athi ot Youn what sealed atese Bock er 'soper” (crn tne stn and ceting racine leoeuan persNotches are just small marks tht are made onto a pattern and then transferred to the cut fare pieces. Ther ob iso: ‘ery patar plese 1 nccat he organ ack sites ofa Siow tr Artie sicher iter sam allowsnce tan suse troahouthe tof thegemen Spec cement buts, art. orate sya eatres 1 Datngte exe! cannon pits bensen ogre ice te mata sce 9 etn fllnes hen marian lene a. exampl yu want to make excneswnero the lee capitate the ace) [Notches ae made ether by making a simple Vor by using special tol called «patern notcher A pattern notcher i ke 2 hole punchin that it leaves litle pening inthe paper pattern through which you can then ‘mark the fabric, Using notches may seem time-consuming a fist, but they'l save you lots of time, as they alert you to commen mistakes ike ‘seving a sleeve in backward, you learn how to use notches, they quickty become second nature and save you hours of frustrationALTERING THE SKIRT PATTERN 2 ge you seul 28 any atonal angh a with you nee iter gaten or Leng easy For wi fe hat most cases oucansmpyirease the soam allonares the sd roms oF aor Sackssome you need tease meretans cule cer howe, run teria the se sears becoming rove darted nour eters ‘Three a oa le fants tha you fee to amare a lrentothe se seams oriental pe pce. youl need ash and ‘rea the atrn incre muita ogy he ete Se yates “Sashing on sreadng wat a deernion te gale pecetrom ne ierer stat oe enter nes Yu can athe se {heater yout maser you Ue To keep copy he ater t "sonia sn ou can abe eel whoa cone FL you redo ats wh, de och patter ese a alath arte pene Une yeu neato an, iene tary lace ith ore line Oe. ou wi neato ce tah Aker yu die he ater io habes rears tine pecs spr ancarange ham onaatptte pce ‘gaer pening ther enaughtoreach he ew Smesen youre icine geson your sewing or ren youve ange eater your Ung. tape the ces don a creat nem, ager ater pte, P apaanpace ng capesan nents 1 fist daria now mach needs tobe aso ach stem ice tung the esredmensurement and sbirscng the sei thera. For ramp. youre pln ei hat rend who hae aasench ho measurement ard jou Fae a39nch hp yu woul aba ry, piesa ou thane tetas. os ‘might ayer aa ould ere ean the garment These, Joumngh age anjuras ram tomene athe snore Sepang o> ‘ese! he she Ou sauce s He bu ra upaseeda he ‘uy £0 ul a862 nests, ich can eaaly be ache ung ttn 2ecutatongtatine witinthe patna" te pce uti fi 2 Tope the pratt pate acoso the messed apr and youhave an exeaneapater pes ae (© the nensasesane-sprenspoern,Byte cazlans| would en neo a tale ncres to teenie pater ade taut he garment propery This rut ests tte dade th tal rater pars nce “trons rh ont nwo to for ace ora nce Sine deaty ie, woul os eso ae ato face oserts tthe core dmansons io dstle he ines sen amore ou pices Titer ou resin pater ose determine wher ter ‘tor opie ew sna nen rio cite ptirn pce > rene ich clr ocr eames ual ares Tho pessbes aeons, this is ere your crest can ety cari Aen “aratonsct what can be sont cet nu pater rote simple. eee eorcrak Sinn sipapel 0) Unstdin there ee many excl toca acm spre our Issn teat taee kinds of ea four games. eis Th ft a Monpltng Frc Cate Walt Wn eng Iepiatin|slshum tag and ochre for lage mapas ond DING SEAM ALLOWANCES you finan your pters. you ee to seam allonancos al ty scans Ung yur es grdses lr esau see he lhe ptrn paces ord ane sear sear sowones raver eee ost corer pales cme ith Shih seam alowan. orf er you, than a8 your ater paces Ie use nen ata lowances tm cnaen nthe nee muchene 5m Tens tobe clpped ayn apeare nus groducion te ican he rgucn of eming sles are Map cancer, 2 risedgerrets might ara itl as eich seam alone cansracton scum oer genera eo allnanees rer pss ar kare rakfaton the geet “The cate snavcionapoach maybe welll ou incertae ns I's anys ceo have = generous tea allowance econ ackaeame your soung er zoreons hehe ucts nse efor soreane hore essere ne her bY srahersereenloyales may benstedte cle gore a Smeone ousont hv an oparantta tt Waa god ets actor nso foomfaragustmer er ae wren cresting eee tiple Uematsu many merge the messes rome anv ron fed at tbetat mule he wearNow that you've finished your patter, it's time to cut the {abric. First, prewash or dry clean the fabric to avoid any ‘surprise shrinkage that may occur when the finished ‘skirt is first laundered 1 Layoutihe brian age nl ar itn al intr se AL Theeny exception otis wstructon st yurecting ae wah 2 dretorl npr pattern that reeds sb acct or nt case, feocn pce nau matchngup the tpn other comin (api ements ateCng and Seung Tate Sings a Paar {r page 86 Bey i you anges pea rhs garret, ut piece by nec and making snelguseines ano the patterns ougo When matching sriges, ou mus lo fake Io secaut he eam lonones anarate ure tne nga terete tne goer ll be sewn tgether=ret lhe edge Femmes uty lags ‘hc tvce tse me whon tpg ou newbie maha al the ‘eeen ors peed ack neither 2 once you ater abc and setemined tat ts rin ost fy rages begin place your utr cen Story ang the in ln fexch nds pace and Hace ary paces te cen he la estore ht | paceatne center rot pater peo th Then place te ness pce in tha cae te ck patern pace. Check hate placed he pater on he straight gran by meowrig te tance rar the age lh ita he ri ie owe oth an ‘Snen u're canine pees are place orci, re Feper terns thefabre yu ve snng arty cuter snd etng ma, pes tobe nto pater pee (8 re zeae ih ong rere eee Soa e ‘cect tart be cone or Savane Sees emenakeratens EerieOTARY CUTTERS Fora long time Iwas hesitant about using a rotary cutter for garment construction, but after working in 8 production environment | became sold an its speed. I's one ofthe most significant changes in sewing inthe last twenty years, and it's very rare now for me to cut anything Without it. Eliminating the tedious pinning ofa pattern to the fabric Will also eliminate a huge percentage of time spent atthe cutting stage, which can be a great motivation to begin a new project. especially lke to have 2 large cutting mat setup ina dedicated ‘sewing space. It makes the idea of starting @ new project much more ‘appealing, Once you've become proficient witha rotary cutter, you ‘can use'itto cut multiple garments simultaneously. Cutout alt fri pice and than mark yur thes, ane ther retains youve mae tothe pate eC Tiss i ses ng te star The a aking pelo tars hak nd mark th ches on bath pects eae Marre das wth 3 Wai MEJust as there isa logic to cutting @ garment by placing and cutting the largest pattern pieces first and then ‘nesting the smaller pieces around the bigger pieces in order to conserve fabric, there is a logic te sewing your garment in a certain order | lke to cut from large to ‘small, but sew from small to large, Sew any features ‘within a pattern piece while it's stil lat and easy to handle, Then, when all the pieces have their individual components in place, sew the separate places together until finaly, you're sewing larger groups af pieces. STITCHING THE DARTS eit rem the op 3 dom, pp nus Bere yu rae he atom fa ee Ayu remeveeabre om the senng ache. se "heprese ct an pul te pce out by he tem ath at, ming 3 "ad cbtn ress Leve eta sv four cbs ong een ‘ake battreat, nate stn he atom he art Themes eau sisi do ery tne ce Tips ue hes wl ken eauiul nish You auld suas asinlerovrs cen te bepng Sd endct the a INSERTING THE ZIPPER Smetines a suc hi il hav aie, usualy ane ese, apps tear tne bck ve changed he placenta he zeperin hit fel bocce hc ese irae ino ae sae {uwain wien he ape sree he back Far near ho iy alnped niga Hand ishing Lased ps on esis. 1 begn by string ne ete back seam fa thetop using argo basing lenge schon yur eowng ashe sualy sleet niyouresch the boom ! the spar are) Thn range te Sth rh norms ual 29 mlbmater] ard ean tenng stttenoy tthe nem 2 ctrarhand.cemachinestaste th itching ine hl dese ck itZIPPE tea zipper in with just enough security so that you easily run the piece under the machine without © Zipper sliping off-center as you sew and turn work. | tend to keep 2 needle threaded with silk cotton basing thread on hand so that basting is ick and no-fuss. Based onthe other time-saving offer, you may be surprised that | would skip step ve found that not taking the time to baste really cost time ifthe zipper shifts when you're ng. you get int the habit of basting the zipper 2 ice, slippery sik thread, its actualy faster. ‘Once you've pressed the zipper seam open, ter your ripper trom the backside. The postion of Zipper fram top ta bottom on the seams essential. well Make sure you take into account the sear nce of your waistband and position the zipper thatthe stop will end just below the wsistband. You ‘twant a gap between the stop andthe waistband, or do you want to sew aver thezipper when applying waistband. she camer tackscam pen aha batm fh per a othe sets whic pel lls leee DL Mase 98a cp Seam alowance oa these rasa be pened rentA Pinte apperin lace oe BL Saas te siper {6 carate the sich eng or yur topatehing. Tate arament to ig eras onthe most garg mates yeucan kes thane erecta ats ng dang oe feting testing on the meetin ao hal can go bach auch ‘nenyouve cers na you cn cnoge you" sper ct nd ah our topstenng cee Fl STITCHING THE SIDE SEAMS Seber youre sng sty ghar wih ng sews: Theechree eps the inste grant rom anon tte Bese prs he FITTING THE SKIRT This a great age todo iting, because you rend tomate any sdusiments you ean tk cael hem beers al re wand Tgnareas Tne he ke atu nee at rhe cent the isthe a chal Rema pie a te _2tcningline on trmoe te alg nes: Make or cor there begining an encrg su neue pst new mari thelna of sices ie aie the poms whareyoure ging toremove ‘tecletres FINISHING ress the sears anc apsin an he th hides. ou conus an ich abe sme cage tat van una or a8 ny mesh or suka the farmensand hess cient tne tad! ‘The rished pe“The skirt is now ready forthe waistband. You can make {your waistband using s couple of diferent techniques, Dut in this project | used a traditional fabric waistband {ior waistband alternatives see all the skirt variations at the end of this chapterl “Loe tect rie wisn ar apy fleeting it. used int trect fable thatcones nue, lace adof-whteYu'see these eteraeng nae ry commer oceese you conse nth arnget ices anes enrerety fe angers. se the maura recommended Nest sto ep re itera, Athos eared tha yout 90) sonar ot heya nt gh beta your hed projec an ies ot rerscina, soe 3 0 ightne gt ou wor 88.6 uch ace rape paces you en pre! atthe sane te then et thr aprt anti the xen, enw Ee 3 FE 5 hearse cl aro (S sncing titan eet Sen sacs ely ie woot he nce ofthe sit aig ino coun the er linens on stn nse oe ore lose ter atactng he wasted. nm the excess eam alloence hat be txng eo h ki wher fished Pres these ces up stoner hapa he weisoFe gee youl ges cea nn on theo edge as eat reset coms pen an rin, tery pes rom hs sifu the ord rss tromne rah sae, steamang he tape oe Ue asin you an eta ptr eaten ee athe menor bd or bate ene pec Fo he each scien wich ene apsichng ey arly ve aking su ° hice alee sear were te eastband rots he shi th finger surance ta tt resin b. en ater ara nnavnéorecswih ger geher Sth endasnudoe © nso te meme nich gre chawoy ttc ict lune CS endoan than nana ip the flgeamenene Gem att re Seeaad ignros cts Tu ci bites eet eveitiend Seiey r rr cree a Geirtomaneiynsemasenreninnesoiocenre Scam‘The fina steps tohem the skirt, for which there are fw options. On this project we wil use a traional Tinish, which can be done ina coupe of ways, The ‘edges can be either averlacked or pinked, or you could ‘use seam tape Hug-Snug is my favorite. I's 3 rayon tape that comes ina wide vane of colors and can be found in ior supply shops in arger urban areas or by searching online for tala supplirs eve Resources on age 64)SKIRT VARIATIONS Now hat ou mastered the paper bf mts hee ace some (Srstons au cn epi pte aa se rn! ks The oiyou ‘hoes eerie the fleas he shes hr Fortra shite oullwantsheoer wl aric wn ne ay Fate bo rah ‘hire ee poges 48d) chose a gh dim anda medi Singh wnen wel athe sage oh ai ges ler, ol ed oer hove gta me-wegt ean posat pocket, bu lof two pieces of denim, Note th Belore the r ADDING A POCKET Lenin tip the packet ngs ote Lares ieee tae, oy hen lee snes aand tect 1 sening pcg pha naan (© the mastendand pect oreClassic shapes in luscious fatries never go out of syle, piece like this camel wool pencil skirts timeless, The Petersham waistband lends 3 smoother line to the waistband than the wool ofthe skirt, and the choice of hand finishing the lapped zipper makes it blend smoothly as well. The handwork takes a litle longer, but the smecth finish is well worth it ADDING A PETERSHAM WAISTBAND {cectacedoneyou cen py eterna rbeon fe bth Fine top eg a wastbna yeu ase one ype op ge Trying sng the rue age oth ise or re planes crap dio nce a ve eing ADDING A KICK PLEAT the let nd itonng the cover tat erm tthe am The stich =t thotop fect rafrceduth nl the bar rma ht ook This Cengenty os armen. Aperatanwastard sl bulyyou'd Uke t give your finshed garment a beautiut couture look, orf you're working with a fabric Uke crepe or ‘eet thats very spongy and doesn’ ike topstitching, put inthe ripper by han. ‘Start by doubling your thread. To keep it fom tanling ‘orforming knots, you can apply beeswax, or use this ile tip earned trom lis Mussenden, costume designer {or The Cronies of Norra: The Lian, the Wich ad the Wardrobe and Prince Caspar: Put bth ends ofthe thread ‘through the eye ofthe needle, then feed them back through the lop a the end. Pul the threads taut so that there's 2 litle knot just behind the eye ofthe neadle. You might think that this would keep the thread fram going through the fabri, but because it's the same size as the needle it goes ‘ight through Ihave no idea why this warks so well—it rust have something to with keeping both threads the same langth—but it essentialy keeps your thread for knotting 35 you do the handwork. ‘Lege tthe tpt onesie pond pullthe bree troughs the ops, making» Ine Bekete na marng Som aba 8 In pa teh, acting ea 4nd ung ne appr and macine-sitchtne ight Sesto ramon esheets teeth Than presses ab ona Fem theoper [3 Press nd alg the seam hen. byhand ne ny bcasees onsen sr a Sud alaou ofan inen apart or rey Anetteoou0o0000000nn00n00Converting the sloper for your straight skirt to an A-line is easy and gives you many styling options. This variation is a basic A-line skirt in red wool with texture and interest, Also included are instructions for matching up “stripes to create a chevron pattern a the side seams. Ii you need to alter the size or shape, sometimes i's good to save the ‘original pattern and trace onto another sheet of paper using your needle heel. Thi way you can manipulate the patter, but stil have the straight ‘skirt to use later. The idea here is to pivot the dart closed and take in the ‘side seams to fit the waist, pivoting out the bottom of the side seam at the ‘same time, CONVERTING THE SOURCE PATTERN INTO AN A-LINE 1 nate a tne doun ne mate of esi pare pice ugh edt ler ars and atte pte ha se A 2 close spin dart song ut the Botan f hse sears rom he Balgntne tu te ote sre les art at te a eB “hamales th mf the i open p Tape he cr clse hen tape he moses pater oan sheet o Wa paper 4 staghien etary care ong sein thei ara atl no longer ranean thversin The ents gta sath are the 5 dota some wih ne bck ice Bonus nesom bariatuctine Wade ratamet nese peice ssctresye tat femtedreUME ee) (ne a the most obvious sitference between custom- ‘made and mass-manulactured clothing i the matching of stripes and patterns. It takes longer odo butit makes the finished garment much more desirable to wear ‘The fret thing you must know i that youl nod to cut ‘ech pec individually to make sure al he stripes wil ine ‘up exact slong the seam lines when you sew the garment {gather Begin with he canter fon pico and ay tout 25 he follies onan area ofthe fabri that wil ke 3 ‘easing tne up the rant the skit. ‘After pacing the first piece mark where the stripes ‘meet at he seam line before cuting out the fabric. Do this by lying a ular along the stripe and conning the Line ont the paper pattern ax shown aight, Notice in the illustration hat the felt spaced drecty between ‘wo ties so the pattern on theron ofthe skirt wil bo balanced on both sides, ALIGNING STRIPES rng on the nearing ice a than mod the sit ld the sam ne bao our ronstps paper aterm nd match phe sear Une th heared pce here they wb sew Now you ab {Seeunere th ange wl tract tn eo ae bs ake clear mark atthe pontanere they erecta then ate he eu ‘rata ice othe ure aa th paper pater on eae sot {hestrges ion he ots yo sl rare ee You rey fren tw fn ates dat atrng aati enact ow of Your gra ne. Thermos portant factor slr the tiesto eset Layeutne ptm ness ati and an ‘tn eee ours pthae su ‘rence neem ey be eqn pees Faun sam tonne msekan ne rot pce inglatetepangtnam ae eyo‘Once you have a basic A-line shape (see page 54), take the back and two ‘skirt front patterns to create this cute wrap skirt Cant decide which fabric {ose from your collection? Pick two coordinating fabrics and make one ible skirt. I's easy. Just cut out one skirt of each fabric and then sew 1 together Polish it of by sanduiching the top edge in Petersham or ibbon and then topstitching. Make the ties long enough to wrap around, or can apply 2 skirt hook to close. REATING A WRAP SKIRT Cutt ln shit ron paces a ane ne ste back pac ro Stipa tne Septem ee peg lan rate wo sis Yu iy ant cio 3 espe a netes om tha ski fom pater ass ct af inches or i ramp re Sen he ht de together acne hehe, ing te wat a= 3 ( (S —_23 stor wth rst 6 are wap to raw ge of ne ren aren me Sie ane the nes ese yu Ue Naw ae the er ice anit {adhe an erate bono inch arin oer the arse {ist iben came fhe abe wast Pn ts sg ae nay ound ‘ho wash sitar let teen hang of Both aw ees shouldbe ‘adhe me te ator apa thre nals te ae thn tamnenes 4 tepy Patera eaten ttn wnt emcee enh fe salt mesure shen ss rehomed es SAR Be es eeren S eps enreoek ‘Temes oc hviorg jovi toot 5 surduon thera edge al he ai bese he nga (eet, 6 seers to wastband ty tpstiching all sound boinc rom the gee ‘Tine betes on neo the ee ano th weit to orep nssnsneay aun the et |B he ie le sities tense theron tense oan can Seat traehan th er (© Taewistoentn tennThis super-simple bias-cut A-line skit isa lovely way to feature a bold {fabri print. The bias cut makes the shape even softer and more relaxed, {and allows for @ fast wave-cut hem, which in this example I've punctuated ‘witha layer of wave-cut bias tape. Ifyou prefer a deconstructed look, you could leave the edges of the bias hem raw, pinked, or evertacked. The practical pockets and drawstring waistband make this 3 summer weekend wardrobe staple ALTERING THE A-LINE PATTERN “Tok teins sit pater kom he Sige Ane Su se 3p 54 Eten esis ong th one sheen by inches ‘msoaple|Te have a beer rape, tate ha pater 45 ard ct MAKING THE POCKETS Leg ty vacng rer your sit pater oma sheet rth 2 omarkte sheen pocket measure the ars at th come of thelr at yor wt and spread geri ake up. Mak he eh epic ores inte ie roanaes nap ote the pat a a ine one 8, Thier poke pater {\ SS UW EI | SL a AB twerig carr an sit © wating ron se,‘Pn an seu he pockets tothe sit Won and ac separate ee 6 tom the asams andres har tomar te gosh ee now ws th ne stir rot and back Navin oct pica ending ‘rome sse sw the ue ard pce tgs an e ie ser Ind oundthepocketand ten athe patho sdesearetocesewpie ‘hr sie, avin an operng put yout hangs inh poses ee Bumdonntne ew edpe a the ep fhe aia andthe an Sonn agin an rs es FL Ope ur amare he centr ganton what wl bth rt ple ‘rete he wat uted tek down sn, Mave 9 butoroe ine marr rans. 9 Tumse waitard down asin, pres. an wpsiteh oma he casng Iusvaton shar he watond rom the nee he Wot Thee ownwasttond shes ie top othe pockets ads stony [tartngasaly anion ne the bon and heading theugh oe cag (© Ping te pul pees tessa CREATING THE HEM Toma teem, ct he ege the sit wth wow pig she. 2 sty cntrasing isp a ten cat in we pking sews. 4 »_Eeving te shin gee atte same arnt snepoas ri (Petar eae ured anand betes ersten: inborn etaoy Stems et it em,BU Ue oa PL dash Our source dress for this rub-off project isa vintage 1960s sheath. I has 2 front and two back pieces with a zipper in the The bodice is shaped by two bust darts on fe. There are two kick pleats at each side seam. Ithas short sleeves and the neckline has a facing ‘Tein sureOe aaa] Untike the paper rub-off method in which wo pin directly into kraft paper fand then trace the pin holes to create a pattern, the fabric rub-off method begins by draping fabric over the source garment and then tracing the Seams and pattem directly onto the fabric. though muslin is the most common tracing fabric to use, l used Do-Sew for this project so that ‘my tracing would appear more clearly inthe step-by-step photographs, The tracing fabric then serves as the pattern. As well see, sometimes transferring the fabric pattern onto kraft paper is needed, especially when faltering the measurements of the source garment. Once the pattern is created, altered, and cut out, we're of to the sewing sage. twits cur wage souce des to demonstrate onto pater singe tac rab of hc sw larodin Cope ret ose ines neste garment conte mere comple sf etre th iste tele tre dmersaa eject sch purses nsdn, Cs ex fretted ose when you So want ict inthe source garment TDincsht conte undo lene kepthe grant and fab place Tae ifeeg nh opt sera Tieton wihaand ping youcan pst ab xs usp‘We begin the fabric rub-off technique by first tracing the source dress. BODICE FRONT 1 oegnaytjng stn rss. False rant! ores nhl an ‘orwelgt helen keepin ple 2.Usings perc oinvie marker. dew ert ine orto he tracing fsb on he rah ran represen he ode carer Fmt tne: Then awa rpnsctr inthe to hs cena ot Une tomate an shape 2 ws doe for shin Chapt 2. The re 3 ay tne racing ede rth ess A tign agin the ads eter rn fed lng he CF per ne on ‘noise Than sgn aspire wate oe perpen pete ine hth fare Notes hw he ese des it erect ino he sta, Donttore me ree ota Ay Seuss rm the Lshape Felts andl eur Cate anno shapa th ras se A. ‘sncat erasing ite he uta eage othe base npn ‘Slang the periter nt moeng he rs eB { kespingne atin fri at gut he tec, begin Smeatig ‘rund the aha and nec. rte sam nes a ou go eee 7 ater au pedal aren ine perinatal he bade en ale Aherlene ort check an ne tht oe pede sce des corecyseeD. Bon a pen or mara. ah ve alot seam ines nd drs, Use eurstigtdye acu nao Mahe ay rte yo tee x ‘he seing tg, ue sunctres an drs ee 9 neuen sarin in th bois ta han much bie soul ned rth ts Recent th ator he tern arg ne at Tres tnom tn tacing sense rd making the ergo ech ta \ermtaterenureenta, Tadd rout othe ees othe Ft nd te ave ng he are ron ine that haz ben ple ‘enter Forth shinee far Sue ts aaa ide he tere ean te sus on cher seth ars Ary dn trent be aie mathe ter ees Make sur te measures espana aroun oe dase FL Reina nce iso he Sect (ning at an ef esac at. Mesos oinuson te upcBODICE BACK Lago rung the bac ac by lenge ack othe ess ong ‘ne canter ac sna 2a pening ta aa 2 raw anon aren pace acing abi ae in Stp2 forthe sea rot ae pel 3coerneaodce buck mh new nee cttracing bi A sign angina cetr bas sear long the vrs geal ne on te ‘waa abe Then sgn an pe wntinetothe aro prc ine ‘ntratacin abs 5 Fatow Stor 5-9 cf thts ote gag 48a in an ac te (8 essa ec rg a ant seizure reg arg ac nn neaSLEEVES Trace te staes, bagel terial mating siete Lndram seam ot nd 2th Most stn sens mish os hae ‘late syantialon athor ite he lin, herr, ee {baron the carter een th raang sire onathe ethene sly fod win enough rom afi he sew anatrace th cher Notch nee aris 2 race the arate he underarm eam, she sere hem Ais ‘Saga oie how he ine ou ceo eid ows ot nate ne atl ‘aati lore, Te dd aon oe ee wal ul mt othe tne toward ne top sige The the aout of bic at create sae 0 ‘neta lesion 3 Lock attnachape ote op ote alee Thee hau be totale fresh Beis mana he siole Hake mark on ‘hetacng tia whch ll zave athe roe, The ner yo sete ea lar the sleep athe arbor se swhonyourecenng ae 4 being areas mitan ne sare fle one le, nthe sles tthe aber sd an replace the Vain, coring fot i wot an races Sate me came non onthe ie of re th abe baps. {Remove racing pices and sei he eter op agi sya. aly bea halon cure the et the sere. Tiss atta ras 3 gon hs aur arene oad. Theo tycepiontth ane when young ned more cs 8 ‘ce cost hat regures3o' movemer Howes ora nar ‘in se he ished ce wl angles ater tere more of levee tha back anlar toe Fo, hhor Klee asa prondes ‘wander slantin lth conaptin er bck The Enerecars (ad See alert Meer SKIRT “Trace the it pees using he sare tps discuaed in Chapar2 tring 8 rant rama a hee rt cag cementing cert (@ ALanng ne ed ar tai ae ‘logtn ed ints toga tac te aera 2 Foicptrn tt it neta rotten neshoaer scam aCn taaa Now that all he pieces have been traced onto the {facing fabric, we will use the information we recorded ‘and beain to create the dress pattern. Loran eam ings wih asi ope. Ue te cune elo oa Crete the role an ocin cuneseoe rte rtaonsct he garment ond eating instructors, sucha a noe, tenes cae, snehemnee. TERING THE DRESS PATTERN you neestomate austenite 2 or tte a, ithe F itt do Te same reeds ne used oer the stn Caper 2 [ce page 3 can be ope howee ws tebe ou Wa 2 ME rag the ont prw na Iheseavanésrntines es eges rina pee pce Itna eevee, we ame ot i tease te todees eauremante oa aoe sis ‘We oulsads mare rmassiemant ane caer, uh wel reas three a hate he ack being ok pp a ao, enw a erat th shui sea sausage ges’ ier nn recessry age sles make ache apd arte then determine Row much a edo by ng the bu sa wa revere ohare seta reearmar oh baton he tern se Our sauce ess bust measures och and weet Fs person with aust a 2 nchex We ion the erence 2.8, Dut rember. er desse he tres deat nk upblsered 0 stn Sorting mth 3 hone eve wl ew taal nesta ah angina inece song or estan at omar eee SL Boson or measures nel atch tthe bur 38 ane Pines athe master yau cat thepoten spread cut ets anctnet sof 2009 abi or Wt papain ne seus garment) Tate rede ste ot wor et jes meseenetl and avs eap We oh auem,Mahpapertomme ameter son fred tote, Repeat th paves wih the st patrn rrr ot eatin maha eter he less of kr in Caer p28, Thabo the sage wher you can ao subtract to he waist Yo canremeve a wait sam by agtng the a oh re srs cand at na apn thea ogee fave rs crt “Gerson sraback. ‘Tomaka the lee pte smi. yo can flout he ess as I tncstaten Ber th doo pte‘ibe gater ee CREATING FACING AND INTERFACING PATTERNS ine Sc ac fhe nad eget sod be mace blr seo Slonance F2enp sci arte sore shape ofan dae ree wl, te ourrmiad basen ptr orate oe foeng pater Inercng gee stay sabeyte a garment cans sien & tine Uni, ering etree cig The mest common ype ch Freeing as use ao elon ard oncom Far ur prec “atu an intron to ine surocng ans hl ees o ‘ite pater are Nate that sb utr he facing pater we ee forthe netcing and one forthe abi Lae te reise ote pater and ssi 2 neh Blow ar around ‘honechn 2 nen ne cane of fain ptr with car ta 3 aca the acing pate an aren sou oral paper Ue racing heals ace ermnd case 4 uname todos stern and rom inte Une youre ranstred eng 5 Mere grein tine and oe any cting narctns onthe aig pate, Tegra in stole man ne pater nn 08,8 oterfan andthe cer back are ne onthe sraghc! gran (© anaes ery ating asprin usar sosiymark2 nce ant rooaesweinea cnet nga (Buses tracey nesietacete cg eto teat saneDDING SEAM ALLOWANCES that we have alr ice altred seedy ta asm ce aun the einer alte ater paces th on tue pcs tobe lace onl ike basen he sesseans. © scang ear lemons tees pr Freon these. Rterto Aang Seam lonaces 9 Capi’ 2 as pape ita stein the tou fata sllwarc you'd ke oa hares you may wart tee te xan caer bak sm or‘We are now ready to cut out the dress fabric from our patterns Layout the aie with bres pater np andi he rope rin ‘recon ee Al Takei account ny ior atric may have and ‘Rave sure he paemert tan age apc eens re ian rangement se 8925 Deena 0 {trove you wou wan she age Res ec othe {ess or mayo you wl expen on re cone can thr oa {tw costume re where hol beer fanny The ol adage tlds tre Mazar ten et rc. Yeon get ore hance tui 8 check a Ipesethngeetre jou once younave lth ater ees sarge, se fabric waghs pn toanhor be pecs ‘cutout tmesices, ang anatees 2 yu gE ‘A Use ween apr as race estar your dar ard ates, Felden pager hal ut btonen ets pect ade Jouve ct athe ace wn he weed main Sie ou ering the wrang sie ofthe abi (8 Lang ct te resp cast ae pater gran ronprlis ‘SrewastaazeThe sewing process ofthe dress s similar tothe sewing for other projects in that you should begin by sewing the smaller areas that need ta be sewn fist, wile they ‘remain flat. Remember, we cut 8 garment from large pieces to small pieces, but we sevr from small to large This allows you to batch the similar tasks and saves Hime and effort, making the whole process go more “smoothly DARTS, STAYSTITCHING, AND SESTITCHING seas that eqirecr and teh nem all athe seit Fare ses thereat no dare an ane side bac fe ech “the bose ack tas on estar, enzone an each at Bark Using your mars rome racing paps pin the cra seem as don the stn Chase ag tore mesng on pressing sich alas nat red staystcing or eh se A nhs ease he achat bose eat an back dh aol need be apices jst ote he ihn ine eps the ec om sihng a yuna while You sean ne agetirek ts hae eo-nade me ath 090 ing oanag tack nto pace) ie ae st ating, make an easesich the pct ine eee ces aed reser ap screen Use atch engin ats 1 be easy gate wen pling te Bob tess Yoo wat his toater when ar oting inthe lee oe Sa the eee vera ears, RESSING 2 te paces tour pesing are andres Presse ats arson he bode pees onpess he as tavard esi Seams he sit pcs. Use a rssing ho shape dts anda ere 1 ress he sles underarn seas ope, ou can ether pn ar ckallthe ce sean tthe pt‘There are areas ona cut garment that are more prone to stretching because ‘they usually fal on the bas. As mentioned in Chapter, fabric has more stretch con the bas. Thereice, we use adlitonal rows of stitching to maintain the ‘ably of neckline or armhole, which is called staystitching. we want to 92 further than just maintaining the length othe original cu ne and usea line of stitching to draw the fabric into the point of nearly gathering, but not quite, his ‘scalledestesttring. Youre able to "ease" ane arger-langth stitching lin nto slightly shorterlength stitching line, creating abt of shape or abit of fullness “without a dat o gather, These principles ae very important in taking your work froma basic beginner level toa finer, more custom-made level Staysttching isa very important step in keeping the neckline for ‘stretching out as you handle the garment during sewing. nce during 2 sewing workshop | was teaching, | painted out» garment that va gaping tthe ‘echlin. Oftentimes, the neckline’ snape requires part of the eam tobe on the bias, which allows for stretching. Staysttching all openings, such as necks and armholes, keeps the stitching line from stretching because eventhough the fabri stretches, the sitchin line doesn't, therefore stabilizing the edge and maintaining the shape ofthe orginal pattern pece. Ths saves timein the {ng run because ifthe neckline stretches during sewing, you'll have to alter the garment to adjust frit later These are the things that'l make everything go smoother later, you jst take the time ta do them now ike to save time on areas that don't really matter in the final it ofthe garment, like using a rotary ‘utter o using pinking shears instead of adding bulk and threading time wth my "oyeriock machine when I thnk it won't matter inthe fit or the look of the fina garment. ‘Tuy ef here ron ie ‘omic ope eroWHY YOU PINK OR OVERLOCK AF7ER YOU S Sometimes when you're cutting 2 pattern that someone else wil be sewing, Youll nee to mark all he cutting lines for him or her so that there's a high agres of accuracy Unfortunately this takes an extraordinary amount of time, 50 you te not marking your seam lines and don't havea stitching tne to follow, you can use the outer edge of he fabric against he line on your sewing machine 85 8 guide to how large tne seam allowances wil be. If you put the piece through | the verlack machine befor you sew the seams, you can easy trim away "anywhere from 0% inch, depending on your accuracy. This, nelfect, moves your ™ stitenng line in by that amount and can make the finished garment smaller in | those areas. Why can‘ account for this and take inch ff and overlock or pink belore | sew? Because some seams need tobe graded, meaning one side the side closest to the outside when pressed! wil be trimmed bit shorter ‘Theatre risen wh tac.ASSEMBLING THE DRESS BACK We pom ine lo assemble dress ont ar back Wel ban ne Greece Lines tne bse ack pecs tots cersponding sit bck pice ndsoneach tte wast sare Renin the appears open. op sloped sper ae pages 5-5 Frataeterone hore pet lens ana aren Spt te cere tackeeone $B the cere tock ca besoin a hep wher the pe ncantan contin sewing athena tote thes 4 eetoreresng ne cei back saa op pac the det back n ‘pe werk ures inront yu vty nh ses aengesnctnaang {hecentr bck nar on eri Tae the rppraceupoainse i ‘ean he wo pce aging te op 298 Wee you woud Siero sap ad aroun forthe ing ta wl be api th ec ‘ge. into Soper thao eon slang sop ard han fl he ak ear pe oo stag neh any om ep ee 5 ater rt te tte sper sn peas te atre aay rom he ‘perch ard uck't al the pp back and bh pein ‘he cetr bck he ress oe len ope lng edge whee the spperandcetebosk somo tou inch a he ae 6 No ring te sone esac our backup ome Spe lata rhe sevens sayurse Pt ct ete fe rss oh pe, mating sure lea eae coms the eer teen cmt and masts tna ress atric on he taro othe 26p8F othe appar non bul ater te sm, ea ete eee eee ete omnes eae ob Bheentre tem ckinno ready ago. Set asic oooooDDNDOo00g (© ftsng ne scandent tack eo nfeanbunyic per insaeetocople he eedSSEMBLING THE DRESS FRONT teacher Sten ne tentwaet am, Press heron sitcom con ar ona hi. or overtck ne sens grading he ear tours tne ut 8 El JONNECTING THE DRESS BACK AND FRONT itstineta cornet he iferent ston othe res we bare wares Seperate up tots pa. the carpeted om an tackSectrs gene a he shouser nse seus Tha eithng cforms ae hss nor uch ear] leh shoulder seer gee pura i spe-taey t place to a2 pe of wl ape erg Sng, at you sen Jaerseam ronsirthng it the shout ears open ard ih the ees ne Fl esi seoms ogter ast, sth seams czen na nah te ede GhA QUICK FITTING “hsishe pit here you shoul ithe germans The maj seams ove ‘ovSewnegter butte acne ad ams hv tI you wen you, ‘Satan taste te slame for iting so that cen eens aout ae, SETTING IN THE SLEEVES Sees canbe th met fel, rsraing ptf sig butte avon ov an uch deny en Roma plin a beat sew! Lruentearesnae ot 2 lent infront and back th sass ty he natenes Tis whore Jurinensrngand arg erie ely paso Pm saenaleee et Frogrcourarpart aol er arg prpose ‘3 ein the underarm sete, aking tre you have he igh sides lyst Tera rag on season 4 Pa me pct eee cap othe steléer sear Tiss where the troyou mae aero sro where sis oct he rele 80 Irak very a Youcan say teak he gra of te lee ether ‘eroargar tach and ean thow the ele ean okt he aM underarm aes ro ie ie, mating sre te ca re {The laren peep forthe sete cap Tiss where Ics ie 3 and 9 tot postions Thenslae peat ne 115.67. postns hen cure sur thierry rove 98 ren apen at he and hen 0 on porns a chou naa 7 ti pit he opulent bt $e sk pasine ving he open sm fine ants tebe Repordece oe nay dots ‘iste may pny {8 The abi soua ron be smth pinned together slang ie unram andihare sadn abe nse ough te See cp ees ease Ponisi ste othe sree young Utratgtneanerar aes rene ‘Mes taptnats tase coe nt9 sis where pute asin has ote eating you de ‘209275 hs ana tavary ep edge the eve o ave aa more lines than jo tinge ariel at Tae i at ling arsommacte te ulneso our upper aon Phe on fend pry al the meron the sere op matches the Serio tte arnt 1 s2u cota you can eten ne arte a sen ete at span Hy estos he ou can bat rw see an a 1 ake ay azine noe te evan ten 2 were rss cic ut preeethesam alowance ore the oth slang oie bear ine ey ad save lei ord worth shou area ad than ety peso, Rope Steps fore er sene, "ACINGS yaa cone hth shld an nchine ressurorats ht ou wars tine oecmbi henge. poy eran acing pes ere na any acesmast tote shoe eam 6? ave austere carga the bengs iene tacing ees ogee ss pe ana ih he edges Ws agsdisefsiteh ane pk sy acing athe ec piri th ight es togebt heteund ne racine eH reve pi anit th curate way around, aou nh eed.J 5 cee of ong toward the ac ce Is pve som toward ng rte gh ean han mache 5 ‘ich le le am the seamen eee soe, Ts wat we \ genic re ap 76 art eas he cng rar eine ‘tad ee a ae {Braise ining in pc. shoul i pop tlore wu pre at oe youn fog aotar ip Cp ar check ui yore apy wth the way te Toman rade he sea ‘ey press irom the mide mahing sce ot reset fac coe tute chine ory te ! 0 Fis na pene eect he facings nthe center back eround ne pperanositen rem byhandusng swine a8 Za (© chpstg ne angst nen amin. ‘ress te bgt nahi en te ae,18 come to my atention during the writing ofthis book that some of ry iruction methods difer from those of standard commercial patterns. This because | rely heavily on Fitings in the sewing process and also lke to leave room fr future alterations. In ths book I’m assuming that you're sewing for or for others on a small ale. It you have the opportunity to fit a garment you're making forthe frst time I recommend assembling the dress and apping the ripper lst, ater you that the center back seam is corect. If yulve placed zippers before, you that putting one into a fnished garment isnot as easy as puting it intos back section that hasnt been jined atthe side seams. So, the fist ime Sew a garment with your new pattern youl prabably want to put the zipper alter the fing, In subsequent garments, however, you'll be abe to apply the ipper in an earlier, more convenient step, “Thi same rule alzo goes forthe order of sewing the side seams and the Seams on adress A dress easier o alter later i the side seams if there ontinuaus seam along the underarm to the hem. Some dresses Isome argue al dresses) lok better and smoother at the waist seam if there is ontinuous seam and theelore an uninterrupted line all the way around the A the end ofthe day, its really a matter of what you choose ona case-by- basis. ‘ofthe benefits of sewing for yourself or for your children is that you the option af building in ream for growah, When you spend a great deal of on something that’s very special to you or for whomever you're making the trie to know that tan be used in years to come and possibly by than one person. 8 Treen the tings insite erode as(ur final stapis to hem the dress, ‘pine plating tone ed ee of heptane em arg sschage epeston ne oar ase ese Ze psp estonia oat er onetiy SN ey pvc re Tamers tistv neh crs nwa har Bi psa check nlangh wih alts ‘ites ne bem eerie nay curd yung 8 ardsk or araner emmearig ta. Some sallow ou te pce opt the ar ght sound hie are tou ar powatred choke: haw, arth wares ist x wl Mate sr the mks are even anne ne hears tatneronng toasts taser yt marin. 5 sing ih foe, ru upyour marin ins. Here ein tbe Sn tat the rs rom ting a eerie ou ped rom ‘allay dv tthe sap ear wl athe wee The stand dere mate the hemin dp up Dis sears end Sach otDRESS VARIATIONSEmbrace the retro feel f this V-neck version of our source dress pattern This dress differs with the source only the neckline and the sleeves. The fitted waist and narrow skirt of this version ofthe dress pattern wil puta wiggle in your walk ALTERING THE BODICE ‘hg resus tin te niga arm and ter the bdice ighty Ising the somes and ten reshaping he leer ee ater sees ire “Tre nestne = sop intes gen curing Vachs sens Ahk inchdas i he neta wos cored prone sth Sucre an sib, Lego yeast neck bose rom the aga nace eaten ane tere aie Incubg ube racing ata new anne 3 atec tinge dar in a your tcc pee tchthem tthe THE FACINGS |Ltogyai-one facing tat he nck ant armnoes ores sonar seen Thoyilmaitan sarach saucer fea 2a your acing ogee ote houses, the Ungerer ar tne aengs uate. se ie eto 9 {ert coure nek anders the sre ne nen anata 2 Unesbeoee a staequntvaion ren ‘Bras pen the shoul seems on bth he oie andthe fig. 4 eno yur asc ang paces tached the souser cea laythem au fat wn eat es together tcing al cles, 2 ‘eine shouler same sade Se Bon sae 2. ‘Sn the ead icing pecs tegter sing he techiqu for elo tl Te ae Suan oan pce pens tgs em ans aig 7 es sew sound eh aol separ, sarong rom one ie sam etge ana song at ether, Sein aching£8 shud name ae se tha’ edb fl itched at nese sara oe BL 9p ma ale can anti ne sam lemances, rss oen eave alr auyaucan She shud area where this 2 pert Frossopencn ate ae esata eso ha te rt he sam 5 reseed open Eapestich ne aang arg hei ote seam eS ines ht b on he ae foe germ Bear taster Throw the fc ft ser allowance bch wl err ta th ee ora eta he wld othe nano gare LO Tm a press sea unr posse Aerards ure totes ‘ahs outise 111 erty prs he ncn and aa pe ro tense a, ‘raking sieht the ssn allright othe mide. 12 open he tice sek up ane pie soe seams together fits ncuck peep ge naerarm ara up oughta poe LB repeat rth ter sd othe bac nthe teh ‘Uh Press penne unter sams nd tur he bdie back ght sis ow Yu row have cla, shed neck and arma ear THE SKIRT 1 connue pating thesia the boc. Aer youve agleane26e¢ ‘nthe bach, rn he dessin out nthe edges he cing pce. ides st cover te ee of ha ae 2 sipeten te ten ttre eam allowance, making sre ot tg al he {bint ning essen ‘Recep wor paul stron pace Sry Peseta teenieTHE SIDE PLEATS see of novo emote wth cL ie lero he It th se cons ese in SpA mpage. Bm nents ade resin naan lat ier Sonia processes thane et Be st st ting nl en angie og N Be ran cette ag wesc ne i: roto rom ne pthetacng one sage tara os Hur tote righ site andprdoon he pls Toten eararacoe he gece ato aa sigh ag Hem he tring pl rund—incadng he plat nth a= ten repre tele! i lae arte hem as ben Se,The crinkle texture ofthis copper sleeveless A-Line dress with a ribbon belt is anice counterpoint to the super-sweet lines of the motified bodice. The silhouette exudes a classic, vintage fee; but the fabric, maditied waistline, and scooped neck give it 2 modern twist. In addition, the bodice is fully line. Rae no aitine nen aut the necking rar he ouce ss foter|ece A ise a spiete mace terior unng late gol ‘roth ure using te same tcigue we usedunerapieg e facngsin the prenous croc pope 6-0) 2ssewine das inbat the tera baie anining cs ach th ‘oar eu ony the bodice a he nig. Ose ore ofr cs rons, pnthebetco lng, Sune nighties tepeter Ther sew rune he ec an ae" 4 cp and prac te sa and urn th ine boc ee ache ale ict eed 6 Senin sie sume onto te eutecbosice ny. Then lpeen ting 7 aah ape pero aid had do te baka he ress Worth sver ian blithe cer ack sary Pans Sella uch oh Fort who Waa techn (Seti rse dienes corte eee uta be niga sucess terThrow on some kitten heels and a trench and channel your inner Aucrey. ‘The texture and body ofthis black bracade fabric make it terrific choice for the clean lines of our litle black dress. Our original bodice pattern is ‘modified by shifting the bust darts to create a princess seam pattern, which is one ofthe most versatile and fitable shapes. The princess seam lines are extended down and into the skirt pattern, which gives fullness to the body af the skirt, not ust the side seams, CREATING A PRINCESS SEAM ‘Lice th nrc bade patra ant ant tat ep 2a dot athe tt pit. ual tyes, ut you may eed {ocemparetepatem ta sarae xm eehld tp tothe geen youre 3 rate nerscas new pce and rate pica ines ot te gtern fiec Todo tn manure te shader sea dhe ma, ake 4 Fark nee Measure he atom he ode pee de leone Iatkemrathere Now cont exch fee nes te So poe Tis [Stheragrvercon ofthe prncee samt evlareth tox er A cutout tac enpee with ppi cis etening them ese the maya the bus pon ech drt. 5 catepraces ines you mate Sp al he ay he Bt pon G soit ne oitcors cites abt they hasbeen seu together eniape ‘hast Ths wl cause the prices Une youu atop up ae AL You's shod the ules lhe bois om he sie sare above ‘rd be the bt Yo can eae em dat se del he but os drs rade the pce competent ce andar ‘heedgswithitedegncoveruarta crete two nwo Tom pecs, lg eta crate penn 7 These re your wo renee, Nee tent an ie Hoe respecte, Bratton tina on enews, ‘Dept he sare segues a the back ne Dose pate es, rang tem cere backend ice backVintag It you're reading this book you probably love combing through vintage fabries and findings. This head-turring, vintage-inspred dress was made with a princess pattern bodice and A-line skirt patterns. The redin the bodice and the touch of blue in the belt makes fora charming combination with the bold floral print in the skirt. These elements are pulled together With a vintage buckle and matching buttons in hot-red Bakelite. CONVERTING THE BODICE Bes ith he prc aterm aan fe thlone Aude race Sea Oss on page Tre he abe pattern paces aathen ashe en ptr by svaeng the ec as hown A CONVERTING THE SKIRT Line linis anne pater, Baler cating make sre hat our ‘tine estrement ir topo eau males te wating Ireasuremertl he atorel te bs, alerts "wakig” Theater ou sho check ard make sue tha gormer sae Be 2ay nesters note arc and cantina thr ia lark Britto noted eth same ecu or matching ro Siete utenti se angle ine afore snafu carer rom pce, chet en he {idan terra an vnmterapee ptr. Ted ths ata San thon athe oper pater and he se aloes sya the cat ec rein nth piston he pope ate te pir shod contre New tthe are resol ton our br sralgn npr paar erg tober pee ieee smanwe ‘senna rss ving he ing eetrigue scien p29 2 4 overtone at up, and machine pth, ®iscnnnte arnt enn coerThere is a reason why so many swimsuits have a halter neckline: There aren't many figures I've seen that it doesn't loak great on! So, I've taken the princess line version of aur bodice and modified it further. You could easily leave it strapless (the princess seam here makes fitting a strapless so much ‘easier|, but I've chosen to give it these sassy halter straps. In order to make ‘the straps as stable as possible, I've cut them on the straight of grain of the fabric [remember ths is the direction that has the least stretch. The stcaps ‘were assembled firs in the bodice-making process and then sandwiched inbetween the outer bodice and the bade lining to create a clean finished interior with no raw edges exposed. The skirt pattern is slashed and spread tocreate a gathered waistline. Hips... what hips? A gathared waistline is very forgiving and very flatering. An Ae in my book! CONVERTING THE BODICE bag by ming copy the pincss paterm orton eth ner ary Paes Sear Dts on oe were the ural for rater gates se 2 signe prncee pater pace tgener on abe scorngiohow ‘hoya ape wher seo ote Tompsaniy ane the pater pices [in ae ie bast rea Aig hem 20 te cater We oe et ‘Soe toch, and cera ack areal ape gether ae eb is 3008 the bat aren, Theis wher jel mane the ie ceeatig ete the er ‘3 ine ne nacho om tn square shape nthe Vntge Shp Tu pores onpoye a Exon tacos ese rarteator ps, ‘sg sre youre sing lr enough ane ur bse 4.using cure tac canoe toca ne, ing omar 0 Cntinucundrthe sm sraunete bac ater ees, soe feta bac 5 Lay the ene avangomet ve sheet ea poe. 6 an the halersrap as shown na gid ia rae he aap Sateen pnceccsim ater at stage ncaa you can se at wich angle aap il Setters tee cdot nached adc taccongy Mar he pine wheretre tap “sn ne ode ngs tom a etehar nan sen ih odes ter Byrnineciappatemmuentesraight ot ‘Traatneaapaternonis the bah paperutingedlewhee, grain runing pares he eg of Sa ‘Temi ge ne sap mre stabi you ‘tend the sep us fr the bees eater piece tld be on ta naar at sanesmnererngh‘crane bse potar eee sng tne new alc echine neve som rete Cal hem apart ag Now ou hal he rem ose es Fors eur consrctoncl hist, ie ied ies to cat inngeut fb are are ose euler test af ch fice f the bdce) oat he rire same weigh the ‘heres Depending on he ehrees fre ic youray want tose Petlsrewicing on allt ter paces gre tre hd. CONVERTING THE SKIRT Th si cont of wo aed rectangle atthe side sears enone ang he peop ee BL Determine ew eo takeout by mesturng the wasting on erase aso Tow nse htyeu hve icf uhered wt eel Mur ‘ebrciwruvaly hk, consis edn oone 386 al er the ane messes rf supa tn nraea toe mh a ree Times the wait resuremar Daun = ons pls ost, hugh The nhs eri way woul ik he arabe rmearre Hom he richiotne dnred engi lon ele, ASSEMBLING AND SEWING THE PIECES sew strap ice it wh ight ae together Ti pics poet tnemapencand tm tod hat bp trnng tase ah ep lar ls thang wins the nur ond rsate pete he oskesendin nese alananc tre op até pl the ap 9S (Gey pres gan roth ht ede 2 sien the tec pices togethers that youhave acon otce srosatprte,cmpetesinns ‘Bin te rage ae neene youre in stp on gon bana te fepedge auto he bs] Ae ping, tea ks the ny they ice ater they ar sen Make ay crecons nthe Sige now before you sen then ou reaper wih earl he Ss. oninar ono te toes A setae nok cenng tthe ears sna thenpesting bar pen Run wero gathering sitces along the op eg, pin est [Feat ang pli ater sno tomten ne wins ttm osc 5 ch te uit an ne shirt tthe wai sm “ethestinpoternegadesto cate pace6 Senne eper inthe center ack om, 7 pin tate nina tot ice wth iit ses together Sirps sre beta th slayer fling oan ot he shit The eo oang heap ede ip anasnm ho seam, Prese he stan ton ning ad ebgestch sieng te tpcdge oh ng cnc ayers he sea ne cent eres the op eect he otic ra ein 1D turnin sas ine un he ram tgs he ing Then ci. the op ede ge down renoit sro andthe aces ete © Tepid 1 sty» rook onsinp the tp fh sip rea tape Bsn from ganna aor teop ee ‘Setapacgto con erThis intage 1940s sik blouse belonged to my dear friend's mother and fit her beautifull. My riend cherishes it so much that she finds it hard to wear for far of destraying it. | chose to use the paper rub-olf method because of allthe details, Is much easier to get an accurate transfer of information if you're able to pin the original garment inte a surface, as you can spread the ‘Garment out and stabilize it withthe pins to make sureit doesn't shift as you're tracing, As you can see, this blouse has %-length sleeves with French Cuifs, a standard pointed collar and facing, which is sometimes referred to asa notched collar, and a hidden button placket. The body is shaped with four pleats in the front and four in the back and the hem is topstitched enue th poet because the alla and at Oreeyou lean he basic concepts ser cals an culos canopy hee fis orang procs such as apt ontnaedjachtcaand cet ape once, a pat, Thebiouee uo arth rca alne post thas many shcing eatres tat ake fe a prea Rat arp fering tence. Taken tee wth eae procs o makes ours gs paces partion dar ba ara a na eh ‘re ct ao Prnostene ei‘As we did in the last three projects, we'll begin by ‘racing the garment. As mentioned, I chose the paper ‘ub-off method for this project because of the many shaping details, I's easier to get an exact duplicate When pinning into a work surface, because you're able to ‘smooth the blouse out and pin it down soit doesnt shift as much, THE FRONT AND BACK you ho make your ang aro the lose ot lee enaugh ernie our arabr et at te ak ede the sour sears actualy Pal Ne wath thesis ara rmesoleee Les yak x sit eral lino rhe paper beg singe cere rt arden perpen ine the tort Ireing the same Latape asin he che poets Te wees at 2 pinto loses ron edge thera ine Make sare ntto put ovtetanape eo 3 soreaaut ne ues rant xe snasin tpn at he unserer, 4 comin ping been he ey pons, Diese al he pints oi nee ocean pai, such ae smubers aight ine woud ce or (ange aren. ‘5 rk arunatn ris in ouch lala pn ithe dr Pat inoio ge you gh ar portion orator Yui rate athe Hoss cost press comaleey iat ane se sear This terse the plats are paling he wasting in ich ete roar that ost leat ane pnt av one ny azure hemo wl ewe loern deeming seme he shaping fe plat 6 te younae lhe raris song ihe btm agg, raat at peu needa tainas fattening ar pn soundhole ee Cl Pin any halyouilyantiente,aucn a hare ala ns te neha pacnga matte moIhe steeper, T Remove nase ro an ight sketch nor eater ee. annacing he pr holes making ny ter ou net ou mene feast Bae a oka yrds ad dtr you netstat no sept patern paces ibe ron fo, com oath sede mate tangs ou gf yur tse dren theve oer cn jobs neue ten peer ah es ee gio smear isten pase ron org Bue ant barn rato tune shat mt neh baton ‘Sintra rntine ih ies eth same ea peck aan pact ot setesin nd abot et, th it de cuntap ca teh heh trata oping or frome cing: Men clhing ps et eh ve heard ary bey. Woen ava nde ae on” 998 sant othe house ack ctr back sn rw onthe Fer. he bata uganda ine emake fe lg he louse a rin stone trom ad ten he top ee, 9 ou Sona art Gi ac the bose tack usin te se mained ashe ar wring alysis pestle 3naaling rate ware you nee fer rr © easing atm be is and Pirin (© Fong eat se CooLL Remote bios om ne eal ace andshetchinjur marks ie ‘else back pater grt soa you lt ato nd hen ter Te [tne stop ofthe ous mth slate We Lge inthe mst nt seen uti este the na pater ater THE SLEEVES Fla. score in tal even rom te underarm. Liste srg in oun te mide aster pace otal caper and PE terse tet le, Cte per eh rss leven page 7, risking rates epi You paced se netter Note lowing “2 Deesine tee cp veh ne or st ait othe ov of thee? Ti it wage fr atl wl eres igh Iunessinthe ery pet een tha mos tes eee, Ks esse heer cp antago sheep «Fae angtn eo slew ane ne ny of te lve Seteemnewretnertn osama rng ext on topo ach tthe these spre ling yout peti ety oneal? Host ty want, ard youl hae ost pa though on ord then tesla or adgin hough boner se 2 sien wits ara he at epening in he seme that nah ‘wena placket Mork ner ar how ong eur lee anu slew Flack anwar ary ater the lm eap began ed Tren Faroe the pan phe seve er, rating the ede ede the Sel your pve rc Pathe dee de lr hn tig sre tomate te op ana com wine pn mars om he ia ie 3 continue pining athe elvan pons and nts. ncaing ne felon mary pres Step Sine For scan oe Page Thi ‘wb ar impor’ me-sung sep nie sein sane eon A Remaiine see sn shtch inte ins anh papers © Png necro Laton,THE COLLAR “Liat a new ec ctr paper and nok an Late, Pinte colar nha ana ren pn te sah: opt the Seto pensar ira ofthe Fl Rema’ a sot he salar a This a bused or bah te upper nd une cal Trace ih round he edges o mata the hap oft cola [emo te pins an shtch th cla shige ee HE CUFFS 9 yarn the vera cnt nana new ico rat apa ng dela You aed oe atl tur ete Forth abs or eran ac nh al ands re cng er each eal Det arte Bouse aig fon Youll we he poet crate the fangs hat he il bea sina a osteo shape oe neck atar sop on pge 0ADDING MEASUREMENTS Gotach ndash late ort measurements he lee ont a ick pat ees Note how the hemline Ss pon the ee eam Thi Is pecnoe he platen ult sd sam mao nachtat ts tbe Mowltake tha amount you pened cut ot tet re oer estas iveasurethe lest rom ne nie of eeu jut 8 you did ordain Chie Toe page Then measure same eran om oan th new side ser. R stole ‘Bane lator othe ptr suing yourmeasurenents ithe ae elo rar rm Step nary abe Yu nate teregorthe raced ines carp ad draw nah Sars ple hat ‘iin te stapes om ach er ede th tar ee snd ram Trctter Cort bees you ae ata the acing mats Gores {lected ard steed rar ane Aa ets pt ou ee 0 heck Your magnum, ave sur eon gates balanced, sua ard Symes anther more, 4 Ls carly lca rahe ee ca sng our Fe treasre ore esaurthe ag andy lhe sca hen Uw a vecang or you ape pate or ose meaeuremens oe craw natn surtces of ha ltt he ot sie the back $e, ann ee llewane an etchedge AS a90 303 am alowancs to vnerts plas wl etna wth esl site Stomallonance tats comes the cil bstineh othe same a our ezmallonars fre oes Garcia paver pee “Stee Pca 2 (eeeNow you have all your traced blouse pattern pieces. Ifthe eriginal blouse fits wel and you don't need to change anything, you can move on to “Adding Seam Allowancas” [see page 112. Ifyou would like to enlarge for shrink the patter, this the stage to slash and ‘spread the paper pattern. ALTERING THE BLOUSE PATTERN Fer surtleue we need slash on pene alg he as prices nes Sra bust ess soon photo fyou need 9868 Rebs our Tyson aes and back aes arg Minh fo ach fe feurploer ous oi toh he oe aback pees lrg the cantar Sc spren rou cud te inh a alagem ad neh tere ose age oth ne om sone ese: Toe esi a Commerc pater athavemuitle since inane pater. The ‘Sar are meri racine ol anne pert ano at ahem seam by den ecard vag hie mated ere ang ote that inentowse sem etn garment nurs become tarts yey ‘Cepred torn the ecine enmple Rai renner ree peas nd spreadine pce rough the thule teraction Fanaa eeaat we are sual rato af garment Rat ee is tnarisonl sigh hs shol rat be rable you nee 0 9 more stn araiens toe ptr, ar oe Man g8 Eke on shel tatu fend ne Reset te Lada nen tote renee You can sew cuting wo ois panded atm pec would ai upto tl inches the wa inate incest 2 te youve assted te bos, ol ned oral ay changes tothe Celar ince. Tw changes neve mde th ive ptr ent ee eckine cla pecs beaut fer the pee span. you eer eet 866th centr ack ine ca prmen il fet he ecine ‘teckopenng Mesurtte neo recine 6 matching theo onseack tvs tupe measure Mate soc he essere one sper 0 you ‘ovo fre relernce, Spread te clr aceon he eter bace A none ran paten, ssh spe srgCE ASHING AN More advanced readers may notice that ideally we would add only tothe area that needs to bo expanded and would theretre have extensive measurements documenting ‘the exact with ofthe wearers bust frnt and bust back, allowing us to perfecty customize the ial pattern. We would also leave the shoulder seam atthe sare ‘measurement and spread only through the bust, narrowing the spread back again at the hemline. inthis example, however, we want 10 show the simplest version ofthe slash-and-spread technique ln. Extend it saat mathe the ne Siena fhe nace youve islmessied Aga teaser weve rate tet he Boies tron" acl ate te sane mestrcnet cave heels met Seles nth sproasg lh ees Maver. hyou nde ssn Sra spre seen rls tothe you wld peas he airy tn te cvter in hat 3 Measure he naw aol ty matting ne ret neck ter pees ne arate” sam rant ny ton ote ses ed ‘hore the cut Reremoer hat ree says alesse ne 808 ap naserin sie Matesure you manta ne amount eee hen Arasering the new aria ad sane cap essuemate tec ro Imessremansare eat te sre he sieve ght beer ny se In tut he ao ft seve wil tg sree th peo fey ero esa ese ater Hes es apo Is hay you cold js ered te lable ce the pp arm ea tapering tack the orignal nes th arate see a, Insiedeta srg sp al the oy dom he alr ee sre sles rer one you ned iintasal aetna up one Alans tage you con mae ary le rations you wou. Se pages ‘25-7 oe some varaonect our sure Bouse. eu cane aya talons srshonn lenge te sss 1 Aig ore or ever gates the sles “+ Remar th sles or colar and a facings ‘7446 eum tlhe str pela © sedges andes ‘hese peterCREATING THE FACINGS ‘ulna needa rake sing ptrn forthe ofthe ln tae the tantpatern slce an measire 2 3 ices rom he centr irotedge anu sthe ny up thor a pate, Then mea the ‘ine amount al rsd he cre fhe ecg ee 2rtke acu ol and snout culthe nce othe curved ant sight 3 Next flour pattern ace aang th rn ag ath here aft oer doled bund the ares yout ro you'd te aang be 2 porate pater yscan ust lace a eparote pce ora cape under {Capa fsing ltr tats spender the Bouse ot. Trace {trou he pater Song he cin ine yu leased rg x eee ‘Ao he rt aper and anne he tsa he sel we ine sh races ag een Moke ante athe fore 29a yout. tow voure ol the facng back uig the sming sage ot EL ADDING SEAM ALLOWANCES Now hat youre madeline tratar othe apr pater. dhe Som llnances = wes nent prveus jes oF When irae, you reno renee abe Check he paar pecs or fram bes oles ng he specie patterns ame p Lu (© senator in inlBPrewach the fabric, press if needed, and layt ut on pour cutting suriace ising et cout isan any pater jou most rch yout atemoleces route ein esto th age fe fore fo teste pce arse a squatter neat he bri ovate manber paces oct er hear ard al cote ie to ou cut nthe ut th itraig pieces for lr, ca anlage sn cing eaner an racng wee raneer tearing or lta notes, tontale and tna Toma hem onthe te paer nhl nit recat ay ie rer tetoce he pcos fire Bs ee ita mara dor oroher rela, essing atcha orate ster moraine hs neds be onthe wong se you're making a pater formule use, you may want ut ut the dartleat shape so thay cn imp around it sing ether chalk, deappearng marker, marking nck 70 dati, cave the nie dat area ath ape hiss one ofthe e820 ko use sich pein my dspener Then ct ot the darpeat shape wih paper scissors oan X-ct kf. This hes 8 Yorn ego race aginst an helps the tern las longer Marine oun and ct eastern caLay out all your pieces and assess the project. To begin, apply fusible interfacing tothe collar, facing, and cuff piaces and set them aside. Use the lightest-waight interfacing you can find to create a sft finished product. coy los Here'sa iti trick to use whenever you're sewing wo pieces togathar tat are exactly the came. ‘Lp metwo paces rah sites eget te AL Sent the ge ot ‘ne under nar pce, wich ar atng nay he cue the {emetten anes tote ste he ter ae, cree Inova aeons al aroonste esp The erence ett he So cassie fed thon on chert or horse Wsjstenugh othe sear orl gent ons ne igh sale ‘nde cla ee fee B Tiss fle tush in atari When raking alered sche you data tm he nd enn pe yeh Tower, mari eases ve worked wh ce ea aught me to cheat the edges cut whe pnig. nse ef euting the Wine ram ‘he ge py ite pce thai the one youd neta be snl 'shonging ou ana around ne ots woe ene neyo want be lege Tn, hen you ren, youre nal! eving ona hiner geting sare esl ainmmvng te eau. Tere leche ‘ae dferece into ny ial gare crete 8 Ping eco pce, 2 sun te colar ih the sca amare tha you ed inte fete Ti the edge ard srers ap sen nhe lping amare fectnengoness Pree natumleee Cl (ae penn cx esFS, PART 1 to elt pecs wt io eran sea andmeazure the lng he htlom 296 up thatthe tertong eo hat weno se pacer tater 806 lo rece Ths wl at bc ress on tr, Set tects side orate ee TS AND DARTS for arian press them Set oe. Te (© rmningn sam tora omtneca bore ponSHOULDER SEAMS ) Db f \ \ SIDE SEAMSSLEEVES “set ne machin sieht bening length 4) nd sth he Gexesochngine tbe eve cap nthe cul ao Fl. 2.cut the openings athe btm fthe leas where he place! 85 ee "Bronetne pace! paces an pine tc th ge of tet see Ua sae re pctt ices your ening rating and sich lrg he 56 Sic hoeh making arte ary sana aout ite pont s0 bane oping move rete SFotsin neg te placket an press. Than ld it apn ani. Has pein in the cge do shat compa coves =hching ne Burnt totarz sc ard machine tpi be wd down, Regent ther se ar then rss ath oe (spesng neces tne “bstaig mete sen tstaeron eae co Slits Stoabievntecsse Inger ect ‘em rhe net agente Seningon bebeo ieCUFFS, PART 2 {sw ne underarm seas ofeach eleven KI Pree he open and 2pintecatto te sien atte edgesat he ea slwances. At ths ‘iol the placa paces an pnts ens to go Hea every rasatng euscafenio ler ardthen De ses nthe gre nod Falthe ackt ws acon inbecnerds ‘Broth late ote seo termina ye roles. Tak a ao ‘ine sauce Buen and cc ne proper aracion sa epueng nthe tau y sling te tveads rom he cher isto pbs hting tem azo to rmaie sr they 7 trated ei Pn th ages. Tato yu cenng machine ara change re 12h Instn aceon tenng asa ane aethe claire Ieee, A pepeatorte cnr ston ‘reste stam aloweces omar cts {6 sate oer cut ere cul sn done mest. Toate rm he cutee orsistich eynand tom nena Sih ar ras oe ‘Tse ne sees you se cea etn te saves a ton n Chapter se page Brumby tn ey ee tae frat the underarm and ebuderThen pn tte nan a9 ac Rok tens ont cetrrs nfm Gpeltte sues dtrtte a ea rune te arate Sr Pe Steen tired on ane rand then gel he bn ead ue Sirenson oe sles ap ts neat thea Peepers Inala seg at the uncracm pit anit the ser ona the ace at zeseiteh nah (Senna Peder sena.FACINGS AND UPPER COLLAR Toke assembled clr npn tthe nchin, thing th ctr etches on each pice 1 ate etna long ron races i ight ses tgs Covering the ees fe colar oc. 2 ratsne eager tne aeng see ane raiser sare sth ha il ee Breas gogo vee aterelybecaze ne nina tase re deol dette lose nachna andthe upper oar eg oct tebelst reste eh Cig ithe user oir oe louancar the shoe san he claro ht an Be che ok tine wy Pn th ap hich apenrow any rom th shige fndrepnte se tte sched Tse ek wl lan yo tose a the way rr ron 396 oot geo a srund te necine ne Geetha fnsen im rica ede perso 4 Machine ttn teeing an cal al he way acu Strom seams Prost ie seams ope ving tla bat Tarn and 6 Fait upandpn ne remaring os caer seum tre ncn ae nse facing ord the shou seas sch the Snack any grace hve nan the sree eM Teyon the louse ond heck the ustonele aceon ee 8B ueng te manulacusers struct yu sening machin, your buslonols tote tous Font and cutee,"The fulest partof the bust is stress pont, so you want to “make sue that button fas along this line Without one = the blouse front may gap acre the bust when worn, You ‘ned io asst he button placement to accommedate "this Mov the butonhole nearest the busine and “redistribute the other buttanoles evenly. 8 good rule ‘thumb is about inches apart. but it depend onthe ‘scale of he butlons and the garment. Another design Tule of thu it favor an odd numberof buttons oer memmmecipensecemetscesoas -— golden rules of proportion—just like a rectangle being eo | tore plasing tothe eye than a square, Df course, as mall things, youre the designer, o inthe end is upto you.Buttor (ur final step isto hem the blouse and apply the buttons, ‘Lwin an ini martr a inch rom he seg fhe ha adress up. reste neu ous A 2 either ner taste the em up propre he psig. Tie Iswnenitpaytoco se bastng ape youre apretionst) epithe, “© zach em ar {8 ng eam ph and ‘etaaneanen, TOPSTITCHING Another favorite tip or beautiful fishing sto use rayon 4 ‘thread for topstitching. The thread has a ice luster and ives a very refined tooknatn tne nour ot ae when cee. Lah marine bton facerent hough be butane eee 4 ony ne wstane iota ron ote buss a marked in tp Bak ut ink or thse cigars neha Stn wreping tie trsde win 2 Bart sth tevsen he 2 Baten ve ttc ine Wrap hoc(ur original blouse pattern is thoroughly modernized with this apple- {green cotton print. The crisp lines of the colar, soft pleats, and simplified three-quarter inch sleeve make this a go-to top for everyday. The original blouse had na interfacing in the callar and facings. ve continued that here, because this sturdy, versatile cotton is dense enough to stand up 103 buttonhole all by itself and stil be soft and cozy. MAKING A REGULAR CUFF ‘The ony aerate paternal made he cinta el ut stead th orgeal Fron ct, hte oon alterna ea erie ‘Seuredisput nec nuhrugh atm ace he ul you on reed ‘eet he ea Cuts narmaly arom te ror he ack MAKING A SHANK youpreera regula buon creating shank il alm ar ricer btlon Lost cote vt bth ends trough rede ane 2 place ine baton anne mark aare ult te apy Pace Steaua oetpch arose ton. 3 sewan nebo, catenin te etiekinih op ere buon 4 cout oases, nr te tecugh eben a ‘5 remove he apc Loop th thea ice avn the aces “shan ‘aire ‘nests tat rel am hang omened he ack ar he ie he ‘Bice oo one nse! he aea eens meThis version of aur source blouse is made in an amazing bamboo fabric that has the texture of linen and the finish of satin organza. The French cufts from our original source pattern remain, but the pleats are modified into simple darts. You can use the same buttons asthe front ofthe blouse for cufflinks, ereate your own, or find a vintage pair. This blouse transitions {rom day to evening seamlessly! CONVERTING THE SOURCE BLOUSE PATTERN ‘Liven source see pte ot zeparate tet of rat ape th eins an cone hans arts otha hey ae st Tela the s oe A Hyp wa ae asa sian, MAKING CUFF LINKS 1 sew ve bution together wit a dotie-hrened ned eng © Uicachguptetncen he buttons a 2s he teats annecing eo Euens make achnklss2 rennin senna Step tetratome‘This breezy top takes the pattern we used inthe previous blouse variation [see cage 128), which uses darts instead of pleats to shape the bodice. The cap sleeve is made by only using part ofthe slaove pattem of the source blouse. The sleeve is attached and the armhole bound witha bias strip of the same fabric. Lastly, the points are rounded on the collar pattern for a softer-looking appeal. vain TH cap SLEEVE Ano aN ROUNDED COLLAR Liace ein ese ap oe AL ounste gts tne lar ptr ands te‘some decorative buttons for a vintage feel CONVERTING THE SOURCE BLOUSE PATTERN ‘race ne ginal Huse patern far and ack nto sncter snestoea pet 2 eng scones te 3 orm aline tom he nserarm tothe neck ine des care Mate he sare ators othe paces, Acutand sm ming sccommassinstor te change nthe the edger sbrchng be (S eiacrape pte (mocatncnow aie ctne Ratchet up the retro by converting our source blouse into 2 rockin ‘960s- inspired halter top. Make it up in a candy-colored fabric and add (0p sag sate =| Beaton ne ne toe ceegt etnaHere, the basic blouse pattern is simplified by using only its outer shape, opening the neckline, creating a facing, and eliminating all ofthe shaping ‘etal. The sleeve cuffs eliminated, and the sleeve i finished with hhemstitching. A simple shape like this is a great place to try heirioam- Sewing stitches, lke a hemsttch, for example. A simple zigzag stitch, ‘made with a wing needle, creates tiny holes that are reminiscent of vintage linens. Further ease is added with slits up the sides, andthe top and hem is finished with mitered corners. CONVERTING THE SOURCE BLOUSE PATTERN -LLanghen thetic ousepterno makes singe tune shape at A 2oep ne ncn couse cl nena or amare canes neck panes Then rates ec aig a sen on page 72 eB ‘py ne tac totes pe se \ lo Tener ‘eee taeda shamed.MITERING THE HEM Lines ot ove oan nasi slang esd seasons of i ronment Wei needa mtr he corer the sits fanny prepara the hem to be mitered ying teow ge loge and frags enacts pothere the edges ines res Fees ‘open one led ees. Thr snl eto ees attrac Shcarerzecten repens the cara Tht wis be eto iP Ira tat repre etc of ew ed ese EL ‘4iake a ha ine beeen thet lps mating su tat Nene inject rw comer see 5 robe ice with ght sles ose on he guna so ht be acto arte! oe 6 Mahe Ves png ins ae se and ‘Maange comes ou onthe the her sie Pn and teh is {© teimaractonrepeseing 6 ex aay the ncn am he an ing about a ich, at ess pon ‘evar the compo ee Tipe sar gh ide ct aa prec gaye B pny the esting by frst raking ong machine basing sh long telee age tehem le woy rou lee I-10 ‘Sreuary ihe hem lace whe you tesh withthe hersich, ‘Stee ne wing ned forthe ars machin eel you" SAAT iseK tse oten tps arying sth lengths are wane ‘a pce he stp When youre cones tht your machines Saifapeeang engihand wah, makethehenstch al around ses ‘Ttecorsve ron embry hea anda spa egg stich. Youcan trgumen wihvoroustieate teaches many ert eects —s SergeantTHE SOURCE HANDBAGBecause the handbag isa three-dimensional object— ‘and we don't want fo take it apart to make a new ‘one—the best patterning method to use i the the fabric rub-off, Use a tracing fabric that’ flexible but has alittle body for easier draping. As mentioned eartier, musin is. the most commonly used fabric for this purpose, but decided to use Do-Sew, both because its transparency ‘works well for the purpose of demonstration and because it's sturdy enough to withstand some handling ‘while allowing you to see the outline of whal you're tracing very easily 1 ater vain abe, ps, eases, pact an painters tapes goed ic sea apethatwortcomape te agin handbag especie re soangtn sane, adoring pose ur azure a5 2.catpieest tracing abr tht lily cover the ei ant. 3 raceme nena onto ne rein arican gl up teens. ihe pie ee isnt era fooie ata agnt he ap wav ay wins. Tanna mar snug Featiyou hve "uphlered the handbag with rar ei. 4 Tote a perc and race alte Seams, raking suretomarkthesear on engin se oe. 5 nee in perl al te junctures youl sew tr 6 tierantag ne 2 rubiisced ont tutu wane atthe era ope anda where te sears, Laer, wel eae the pater or ‘per an en ngs alone o te nda pater paces Teens eae ee inside aut you an cst teeing ‘utes butte tnng ithe same shape arte eer. youcansetheanegelseae” ‘err pater rou ing wl You va ta sea te ning patter by tok wch a cies nthe Callar Me” on age a ine DoS tts ig nua ee 7 Bote ae athe so nce te sore way sng ne peo hls fabric tat apn eb whe oY ang he aay ewsAiter tracing the handbag, we're ready to move on to creating the pattern serach sate lea nding nee tea caters weighs race he shges ota pce tt paper nee 2 ave ane pater pices an vans any thes. grain ies and fung etrostone 9 tees paper nec ne BL me nantes are apnea ectnguar shapes, ein a sues anda, yu can sinpy measur am andrew your handle pater ont ‘hee paper ving your messrements eran pans A ostoreyos nds nam sliasces, make my seas hangeyou't IGATION Looks how the handles of yourhansbog are rished. re they a sple tube thal has one seam and then tured, presse, and ipstiched? Since the ving of ‘ur source nang s 2 i, the vinyl was not key sud a then sched You may choos howto finish your handles according to the thickness and maneuverability of your obi, The possbities ee endless.Take into account any pattern or nap your fabric may have, Place any dominant motif in @ way that wll be desirable in the finished bag, If needed, place weights as you cut Wig eel ter pices ne AL 2 war sound a ne pacer win ar chlo el Bostoutallotinerardog ar ning stem ces. your bag reds inns, a ot heat meriacingan a tr pecs rom teeame sates remota ynasiaea roils Ne hates pecan Rett nny od mvc nag SSRens el eeeee ate | use a technique called fat ning that's common in - theatrical costume construction but may not be familar to the general sewing public. You lat linea project by sewing a les expensive and usualy sturdier fabric tothe fashion fabric while the projec is tl in places in order to give ‘mare body and durability othe finished piece. In this case, bonded the heavy-duty interfacing to mustn and lt lined those both to the fashion fabric so that when the handoag ishandled the fashion fabric and interfacing aren't bonded rectly and don't ond up with permanent wrinkles after being turned. This gives the finshed tag a mare refined {ook than ifthe interfacing were bonded cirecty tthe fabri. Follow the steps below to fat ne arp neon iteracin othe ting bie Make sre 3 thesearsloeense sy onthe irsng he sar alone E | stone ijerel abe Tues elton om negra near | teh ood in pres chars th gms meron eu sic [an siete sesmllonances on anvent make nee tbe tothe beg ees th he peered ies ‘nt a anes eyeing rake ll msn tating eee wih neriacing atch one a8 ‘hem to the bog pees wth wong des ngter Sch aranathe sdges wth a machine bare sch street sar slower Uneso matvmen ne ranaiog ren ote you nent ne ee sees Thy ate based because fey So rem inne nares proc thoy con bess omoveAsin the ather chapters, assemble the smaller ‘components first and then sew those pieces together. With this in mind, construct the handles frst by folding the outer edges ofthe handle sections over, secure them with pins or tape, and topstiteh, Ths project may call for experimenting with scraps and some sample passes, as well as with diferent stitch lengths and ‘widths withthe topstitching distance from the edge. In ac, for each of the examples in this book that include topstitching, I took a moment before stitching and made ‘a sample in order to have the most pleasing stitch length and proportion for the width ofa topstitched edge. crate plein onthe tandag ron sase by sitching Soon see Cn ined hen ping bah 8 pees wih Fass ogee ether $e mnesich Pes open ard the outer apes ofthe oa n= 2 feces pos et hae seston rperssto maketh pecng Ion mare nts han gees sctena Ten pat he Apes or tor tea again mating sur top te right sides ogeter Sich, presi ‘eed an than seh heeled down cat younow ravens Compaen gece 2 at ine he font a ack pees a he neces musin pices ee 80 WS making suet sich hom ogee oun ak. azn nani tng rir ttc te 3 semble the alia h andag by sic theraht decline ngayon ant op ape se en bag and ta scs opt Lane he Bazom open. "Sega ar sewn ogee “A aign nora aes tne btem pace tote carespanting ng sie eicpeting seni en neh nat ar an oe mated wey aco Sch bar he ap theses 5 tase the ning as he outer ag was ase bul ea te eter au anor tring 6 sien nehanse ot tetas. Pin tat an hack the onl oat ‘hehanaas wlan pare ey are sou Make ay ast{te aal rep, nha te, Tempeany pine hans theinaide fy gs that hey rae awn gat cag inthe seh owes wher you adding ea ee A raring ins ou ond at the cuter ba ind Pin sang te top edge wtih sds ogter ag sth sera ve BL B tim sound te sewn ee coping in cares an rag ses at you goto rate te tured eelet bully 9 Turn th ag iat side ot wih ne ting raw an he none ag. Pres tne opede ote bas rom the nesses, 10 Pinch bom seam pun tout he bg Engh tich te Seam tynanawi an inte indice 11 sopy efaseng maser aca tthe mantocture's Siecons,Fr is etal armen he ks ls yo pay leo he top edge lbp one teat af he rata rae. Alo the hese 12 very caeutyjce he bag adhe ame, ing srt center the og (2 Messager reno th ‘ene sacha ato cy {singe ining zeae pep a ravtheoenrg the opHANDBAG VARIATIONSThis handbag is taken fram our source handbag pattern using a softer, ‘mint cotton fabric and bamboo handles. The great thing about these simple ‘shapes is that a change of faric can transform the entire mood of the piece. Instead of the fabric handles from our source, a purchased set of bamboo handles was used. The handles are attached with matching rick rack by loping the rick rack around the bamboo handles and then attaching them the same as you would the fabric handles. The structured metal hardware closure ofthe source bagi substituted witha clean finished open tp with easy-to-install magnetic closures, PREPARING THE LINING AND APPLYING THE RICK RACK STRIPS Prepare the ig cls byron te op edge af each ice 2 cat ar sti 2nen- woe arc nd pre under nck a seh ‘ge Nou cl ure sige lari tad ok rach, yd el ly Ine suite the topo ts ng pce by optic eA ‘3 rt tne an acsere ae page us ale pce, 44sec the bios ope ick racks, ME he krack tie at the same lat ne id rhe source hand andes ee BL “charg secrete ands hands tre oerhnrcramrs te conuearsabey )\ 8 ptcing ie irae Slept tataThis clever Amy Butler fabric is called Tangerine Martin. it gives a festive touch to our orginal source handbag, The sides are made of a coordinating silk| repurposed from a damaged vintage kimono, The metal handbag frame was purchased from a craft store and applied to the top edge ofthe hag with jenelry adhesive. APPLYING THE HANDLES AND LINING 1 teeth razon arate eng he a eA, 2 atone ntbon ends nthe ttm sam when avin te extrr 3 tpn nng the same maya he Scurce handbag se pages {Ushi Besure one nose andl 8h wen NG etna Sem hesvendsthe met FameIn this variation, the source handbag pattern was blown upto triple its original size to create this practical tote bag. The lining is a coordinating heavy home decor-weight caton fabric, and the straps are sturdy cotton webbing, which were applied tothe front and back pieces while they were flat, The ends were caught in the bottom seam when it was sev, similar te the ribbon handles in the § O'clock handbag on page 1$2. The shape of the side gussets inthis larger variation makes it bit more refined than the classic canvas tote, and the angle of the handles adds further interest. ——- lle jatar ength sting he st fh wil make Uheente te much wer the try Sy eerste he wat SSS (ese se quest tothe wth ote sis th tr whore hey il ae wenn sap ttm ses hing an te he sure bg gtr ana rac ona acter tet ot at paper using ete wrel ore crossing ines ce each erin alba hora saver Bectoutte pen paces apr slong tenes and serene nem ut oui yor Saracen 0 ‘4rape ne spend pacsto acter shet fel paper ac conect ine tute eopes ih ne, making the tow oun the age pater eee 6 Prcninandtack esd gues win Par. siched lat train Ire stape cl theta oe (a Teeaurcendog pater stow eet.Our tote pattern is taken one step further by rounding the edges to accommodate a heavy-duty zipper. A strap for carrying a mat or jacket was, ‘added by inserting black grosgrain ribton loops in the bottom sear of the bag and then threading thick cord elastic through the loops. The strap hides along the bottom when notin use. CONVERTING THE SOURCE HANDBAG the sure hasbug pte ots anche lect of Wa poe and 2eameps make win pereenditr ne cong the pater uni au gt oes is, ‘3 nn you seni te Aye making ne bon deeper ae wl a age slash ard spendin 5 Now slash a spread he so ana he wountte8e aha oesonde oth dested ih a cepin alte new. 6 misiswhereyou ana kee ter eine cutie ott | ‘ane the corners fh ba a acomocaa 3 oa spper ang he Tha sural ices abl wtn nas, rin ne, seam alowancs, {ating netuctona soning isrcions gathers ele {cat the no bog and mark al ncesary notches 6 ‘sinter projets sw he ompons pts te Rand st,APPLYING THE ZIPPER 1 pose ayipard area, ase ae or cific odo hen the ine using per fot on eur seing mace, pte sori or ‘ange ice none ze the pe on re ring pia ei he ‘pe Fld one anand ang anges aay aren of operand osc ha ic oun rota wo ree wi He Faget wth bt th csr Tea amen rom e286 ining onthe other sae eee Jee wna sare doo he mise nth rng aio he back (een {ge arnt exarson pes se B. You now shoud hove Fe opeeand an asec acon at eno jom whe Fa, edt ‘nec natin te bop ended aor abe choc. 5 othe nse os inthe provue nada et {Fin the soe secon ewean Bethe ects ard sen 7 ansch rion apt the edges fhe bg btiom ht jet neuah tithe loop wile enposednhen ages together rth asic ‘nding tote teen roo 8 rntnebatom tne bag othe rest he bapa than cv sound seid, aking sts ton or itch acoaathe care or 9% ‘Re comng cores scenes p05 race ne som lance nm aes he carer. LO rece win ne emsinng ning pices ‘LL Tuntne bani ata tein igh sd Fre i inthe yar and hd the ing tae age reste 2 Fipne bg inst cut an tread te east cacing hough the ‘ion ange Tad heels hough a pureonescorsseset mage Forth parse and atlabie nero ceparmest thi sores Leather and vin need a tie extra care winen sowing jpgoOOOOooUoHAUHooNONDON sn ee = Sepa te Soertala = Folded Oot DOADODNTOOONOOOT OOOO uae oSUse te follow tips when working wth them 1 Layout ples and mark aun thm i ap or Sharpie 3 men soning, vee cps instead at pn. 4s ateather a denim uel nour sing chine ete eedes he kil ge 5 Mate stching sample sna cap etre you sew here pec, 6. use teaser esa nan yeu was ese seu Butonortening one side0 Measure height fhe onan tack rae oe thei fee yn Sie giset Make wo lines is dstarce wp om eachen othe atom ornate Ine a new gusae pee. Wiese mach a ou wel aha 9 ‘Capen ten ou hve or pte pce. you wel het pen 9 ‘deren pa ese ines ut to ae wd tp eg he psa Fear ste sure tat the eg athe ies the palen pce ean re samoas you tsa hat ll othe shape he cite oe ‘LL nen are hap th ne it of etapa the use youcan ‘iter noe trai ces the op oper awn tare mle, {rin the source gura pater Ether mathe ing remiss Bo Uk tromtheitenrby aren 2 tomate tne teh, ct oul de paces rom he fart you'd he tcrinore, The cit he rings an eran. When cating tre ring mace ocutinta pica cathe can tere a8 tation al heise! the og ip tet igh ate ut ar sewing, Nota Rave ade the gst ins Cacho curnateg Back a Seceig on ie ‘alcshrers contin erie Ws i sry bunt the she ue reenter 13 Bondnrtacng toe racing rioting. Make sre you art gtintracng nthe ach mde sci ht ct he Pe ‘restoryou' ap Tha wil ners hat your ong daresay ‘Fine thence vac eve pace tthe urges 15 stch ne ide gusset bck of hgh the rn and tan ees the ttlom ges, cpping ta the omar medaka he ‘omallmancee match mre any 16 reget win ne sing making tr to beep am opirgin the etm sath ou cantar te Eg trath ater Yue the Ung and cuter, ‘bear stating the ning ap he magn dari ean nthe Baron Hanus ee page ol Make sare you nk though whee he Closure wil go hunt bys anemBiea once you mate the le ar Ate prong, youre suck wi hr oe 1B star nched ho maprt cose top te 8 bout ond te ning schol te upper ge 19 peta te curses an thn trm and grade theses Then the nie arangement hough th opening athe tom he Us,20 becuse he sal rs ye wring wth you ee ih ne Sth twedseiecedneraly ete 21 sarangethe gusset othe tng nackte me entation sedi togisconpitel KING WITH HEAVY FABRI Pa Abolhy fabric lke fake Persian lamb wil translate nicely in ‘the tater areas ofthe bag, but wil be bulky inthe tighter areas, s0 choose a complementary fabric to work ints place. In our clutch variation, | used the fur only onthe ‘major fal areas anda lighter, more malleable weight of fabric onthe sides, This makes fora more elegantiy proportioned bag. You can also uses leather or vinyl onthe bottom ofthe bag to make it more durable. When werking vith fake fur fellow these guidelines. They sso appiy to real fur, which | prefer not to use: Nak rte tte nap érecion onthe rang sd of efor Mark ater you sew he seas together os ‘nth arn ug Shorpieor her apron marer Canina aces cont togety saree 2 place your aces mak on he mong sect hea ‘id erdinefurs tate sa spper 3-carcartuty win Buntypscsarstiaugh he ri hing sire elt eathe Ths may sem utrcosen on shar he, but wen ‘ring ge antsy par Ys tot meni Ne hankering. eh sot ety,FABRIC Amy Butler sombulesion Dicloth International smoicltncem | ‘The Fabric Fairy etbicarycom Vogue Fabrics megeistrcsom Gayfeather Fabrics aoegoleaherabres om Stitcher’ Crossing veetcarsreeng om Mill House Quilts somos. JJofinn Fabries TOOLS & FINDINGS Fiskars NNanoy’s Notions ‘Acme Nations B, Black & Sons Tailoring Supply swonacandrons com Joggles smemsoates com Richard the Thread Finebrand Stitchcoach VINTAGE CLOTHING Lou Rags vlan om Ragstock mage sem FURTHER INSTRUCTION StitcheaaehA ame ‘peaagee agin erent ies ecemole Tape topete ori mt honatcciatn avery ener sontats wed Frmargtomste hls tan alsoteuses 6 Feip push ric tang when maciveseirg Sempatinghatcartbe eld wt eter. B kath \ravengforard aga a he underse t ete Toamlooeiith re reningstich Used tetamorany secure paces oper mark Sonetnng. lrmtheranning enghel he ari Truebos" (Stony degrees he rash tran inate Toca eso he siches are wile stn ‘etre nny arate gre att srunathe bce c “hacer ine ofthe a 9¢ en an he tk Th inn nt seh ac fh 1 “he certe io oon boa 36 en ram he Fon The inh ete he ot hed heron ata castes nen wa paces be “names pata come eather st anon Une ay batt caw” cross rae rang eng oe a lines Susie called der or “resmalars cane, same etre ens cline ured a sn arms ec hor Srv pcuneswreh aes cemposte st Shypel tap ofthe cae hairdo D ant ‘Atranulr-sopee neds tats ram on ‘over to mane lat ee cure rune re boarfeta, na peng ogee he nce 2 ous Pownce hh igre CAS af malig tre paces ac wih tere memarerens togeher Hs heram nye an open Su 36 3 c eles ep of ice a br hts ad ut ting ere ete item ct atte ong 253 fostered with cl ke met an Senn ge ming suming shar hen ling he trad sot the ate rms ie fll mounds on eter siecle ching wrasing (Casing tam storm one ie ofthe abr {Ipityslr thanthe tarp 181 duce rebut the edge Tractetes sos. tre shes arent rida ror er pas ruler that has gr pret en ielfsrestomensur raw rates, {tod inseam alioanene paca he (hres nthe anes age fe ptr Fie on mating ori rrsing rund browne te edn cigs ‘arty manure te sam allowance 2d ‘feng back and comet he bose: Trresoa nha ge on te htm (preter, eg th rs hat has been og-S008 Rerend trae seam bin ‘hough oor upp sho Il Intertacing ‘sapere fount nvanying ihn nds, depending one spain, ich wagon ote nee ota nec Fhe te stabs orcrerie make me irortuste pssIni marae ter or har wt These mst ews crcl astheink can tendo “gost back mo vw ‘der carta ign or ten ists K eit ai ‘Aypeo ate tomes by opng espe inaioting geass Diteguanati en 4 wore ye appearance Fer eoped tcpter a peat toa grit ers urdin Seen persed n ring patie. oly found the spon surges Seton of fice spp ana tnerreok toes, M ‘Tarake ave basing teh using he seving recive. peal lt ght cheng Seng le ter Tamekeasearat a dagen atl ening ao muse edn eapng raters stomata "rose uments undo ing ecu me Tre la sree ti Ton arta ta racg es at wth ery tenes ‘Salts clppe it these allowance ot 2 patern'o neat nermation a ee, 0 vera peo een at trish he ge pace of tabre Arachne at mates he Btenanatnma th age are eo Caled seer or marow racine Pe pera ater ‘oats ahele punch seo mate retchos on paper ater pieces. Fora fotererating an aeruplyvnder pees ‘real dase bacaten ute pee tt tepateningte sear ante ae then todntslord cofig placet 2 pe fishing tor any srttepning where 2 coninacus cipal see ena oer ge and hen dec nstichedta indo ho (aw edge. Sen ten on shies, peas point turner ‘ante tol usd te push cute poo 2n Srattainas teen stenesona then rns.“presson Eterm ats oten ie introns ath {ust coreran ero hae rag, pees. on artacng ost reson” “press open Tooperaasom ths been sched using at resin ares “worm equipped wah a0 von anda ter pressing eauipmen. pressing th piece! abi thats laces rhe wr s2 fhatne von deen uch erty aepng “Bei arenest omy tatenng te “pressing him ste eundes pacing tal seo ress cures hops, R “vert er nates machine had “hen son onthe o Geen ais The sone Ted ovr ht re rae vere win erica then he edge neice saat rw ostehng Common on Fen an soe hte sale sae rey pling 2 ring ent ae ban mag ae srs, running ten Aragh ste, ten ager hana anced ‘pormentsenng tan s i vs Fy Aotrviton or" bac, scam allowance ‘The ores bene a ag of brie ont aioe pce gee seam oper ‘pated tude tool hat layout ick cou stices at you wold eo eve, cat ‘ray teed onus by rung the sharp setvage The age ct apiece ct abric usualy dese and los tno ha thre. masa the resuo themarafactring paces. These areas ove Inoresheage sual ane sou ppt Ircertanty te aac hasbeen revashed thatthe abs spreads oe arate futieg re see ck ‘pater ergarmen place that aches the Side seaman one se anda ret pce on Unease tsetse stein: Ueytan shy pe fran fr se Intng, stat orery Sone bez‘eal wong src thas taut cher ‘seus pec open lees, artes, reer areas tart etal ut on at irc staytehig ‘Aro of sch use stebiie nae thas Gayo artenaut urna tne handing resses, Sryore aby end strait ot grin The drcien hat runs the eng te pee oh fae parla the setane eae T ter cht ‘erty wey ata ats ‘ators bears ooten pening al that or mate resin sass ar presng parts sn al Tae sew rrching ose toe {or sen pesng ied srg pis ‘opsteting ‘row stein that rutin pal tracing paper ‘Ape pac cera a way Fc tim, seth altoarg whee omar bi, tracing west ‘hance al vain canton wi claret trang paper Th teen onthe se pk up Coleen sutace tracing pape sna trance tatne tre tape Srnoenbbon thats dsinguihed yi i ‘rene patern Una colon, backer hie, Tra valatelnmutige wate Ww Ten es es titra eg ett Ise rte Fars that run Pependcuor ihe sage ee The covered ee of an opening ued ain and veal hase one en ee aedet (arte cor bs ree a pr stir ptt ne bounsoutornles Fann ats manutd y wen lope ug aur Diingaanesoy the {restating pte esa he eae Javed at oh anges » yardstick messin to ue adorn 536 inches og. L iar ‘Ate tha oes to ight le, esting‘eg pater 3 See tein ot (Gatere Sere Sy Bn oo, (Sten Soe Cat ao? therapist ‘reg pan 2 neg dap btn 22-23 sor debra pe Sey Bn Cogan mesg “nem Seaton nag ae ‘esate ‘inadsing meres. 26 es am anus cenn re Pecip tates 9-3) aroha Sen 609 ‘eg Shep Tie Grapes. 95 ores uth ets nana r say ay on ‘oon See Oeste arta sgn Septemips Sn Docs pote terval mat iis Gente aus Cute 827 Panos sten rina 83 ou ay or srg and Soca tone 252 Frey uot (aaj ae nba es niger eae ‘ing at tin troerg nosey rans eee ets tar arcurfnetas rac Sa dg eka aca are ea. Sarin etme 3 sea ria Boe Ses eg ent ee Fewest Pater eda lg ey tet ecard aro 9 iratectnave Tore eae ratontos pecs Papermate5 ‘mn woe wus swig ae pees ‘anes fesse seg opis 7-5 Tesolin tsk rat 7-71 ists pani 18 sina Soetune ae Stemaben = Sheatersaratans s-49 recat. fen sae seeco- eerie ten Wan 7-59 Sgt sir es. on Fredy Sr) ‘separ aper ral mea 2640 “tote neen chao 9 Sis tamstanases sgn So resremens 3 Sermon 229 Stns getter mde 5 Sevrgvacnna fess Inorg ope 5) Serger pe. Soucesens mag. wos ‘suronrs. 7576 Srpen anon | ps Se a ansepomen tamer oon ye 7 tog a SentInches Centimeters: Feet Centimeters Yards Meters ‘Sq.lnches ‘59. Centimeters ‘59. Feet ‘sa, Meters 59, Yards Sq. Meters ‘MuLnPty BY Centimeters, Inches Centimeters: Feet Meters Yards Sq, Centimeters 5g Inches 159. Meters 59. Feet 5g. Meters. Sq. Yards 256 04 25 003 09 1" 545 016, 0.09 108 08 aa