Brakes

Brake inspection

1. Inspect brake rotors for discoloration or scars.

2. Check mounting bolts.

3. Inspect pads for adequate thickness.

4. Operate brake lever and pedal to insure they have normal pressure, return and free travel.

5. SECURE BRAKE PEDAL and LEVER!

Pad removal

1. Apply pressure to the outside of the caliper to push the caliper piston back into its bore and
increase the space needed to fit new pads. Use the handle end of a hammer.

2. Remove the security clip.

3. Tap out a pad guide pin from the outside and remove the pads.
Rear caliper inspection and cleaning

1. Remove the rear wheel.

2. Slide the caliper and carrier forward. Slip the carrier off the swing arm.

3. Separate caliper from the carrier by pulling apart.

4. Inspect the area around the caliper piston for leaks or dirt build up. Clean the area.

Do not damage the plastic cover over the outside of the brake piston. This is a thin and relatively
fragile part the covers the hollow cavity of the piston.

5. Remove the rubber bushing by pulling closed end out.

6. Clean and lubricate the bushings guide pins with silicone spray.
7. Inspect the caliper and caliper carrier for wear and tear: guide plates, slider pins, boots, upper
guide pin bore, guide pin. Clean with brake cleaner. Lubricate with small even amount of silicone
grease.

8. Reinstall the rubber bushing by pushing closed end in.

9. Install the rubber boot into the caliper carrier, slide the two components together. Install the
assembly on the swing arm.

10. Install the wheel to the swing arm. Tighten axle nut to 80 Nm.

Front caliper inspection and cleaning

1. Remove the front wheel.

2. The caliper carrier is fixed to the extension piece. Removal is not a requirement. Separate caliper
from the carrier by pulling apart.

3. Inspect the area around the caliper piston for leaks or dirt build up. Clean the area.

Do not damage the plastic cover over the outside of the brake piston. This is a thin and relatively
fragile part the covers the hollow cavity of the piston.
4. Remove the rubber bushing by pulling closed end out.

5. Clean and lubricate the bushings guide pins with silicone spray.

6. Inspect the caliper and caliper carrier for wear and tear: guide plates, slider pins, boots, upper
guide pin bore, guide pin. Clean with brake cleaner. Lubricate with small even amount of silicone
grease.

7. Reinstall the rubber bushing by pushing closed end in.

8. Install the rubber boot into the caliper carrier, slide the two components together.

9. Grease axle. Install front wheel. Tighten bolts with hand.

10. Tighten the right axle clamp bolts to 15 Nm.

11. Tighten axle to 60 Nm.

12. Wiggle the left fork leg back and forth on the axle. You will see that it seeks its center or zero
point. Tighten the left axle clamp bolts to 15 Nm.
Pad inspection

1. Inspect old pads for abnormal wear. The pads should be worn down evenly.

If the pads are worn diagonally on the horizontal axis, the most likely cause of this type of wear is
rear wheel misalignment. Pads need to be replaced.

These pads are worn diagonally on the vertical axis, indicating the caliper is at an angle. This is not
an uncommon wear pattern for a caliper that is supported on rubber bushings. The clearance
involved can make wear such as this inevitable.

2. Inspect the guide pins for grooving, scars and bends. Replace them if they have any flaws that
would cause the pads to hang up or stick.
3. Inspect the rear steel guide plates inside the caliper mount for wear, scarring and general
condition. Replace them if they in bad condition.

4. Inspect the front steel guide plates inside the caliper mount for wear, scarring and general
condition. Replace them if they in bad condition.

Pad installation

If you do not have sufficient clearance to insert the new pads, use something that will do no harm to
the rotor or caliper piston. Use piece of copper bar, 4.5 mm thick, and lever the piston deeper into
it's bore.

1. Insert the ears of the pads into the steel guide plates, rotate them into alignment with the caliper
body pin holes and reinsert the pins.

2. Seat the pins.

3. Reinstall the security clips.

4. Operate the brake pedal and lever several times to pump the high pressure portion of the system
back up and re-extend the piston out of the caliper body.

5. Check your fluid levels to insure they are not under or over filled.
Bleeding brakes

1. Put the motorcycle on center stand to level it.

2. Protect the painted parts of bike with a PVC folie or plastic bag.

3. Front brake master cylinder or rear brake fluid reservoir must be upright and in a vertical
orientation.

4. Remove the master cylinder cover or rear brake fluid reservoir cap.

5. Remove the rubber gasket and clean it.

6. Install the clear hose on the bleeder valve. Make sure it fits snugly! Use small hose clamp. Make
a loop on clear hose to prevent air getting to bleeder valve. The top of the loop should be above and
the bottom of the loop should be below the level of the bleeder valve. Route clear hose to collection
bottle.

7. Slowly pull your front brake lever or rear brake pedal several times to build pressure in the
system and hold it.

8. Open the bleeder valve and watch the fluid flow from the caliper into the bottle.

If you see bubbles it does not mean these is air in the line, it means the clear hose is not snug fit and
is drawing air in from the end.

9. Close the bleeder valve while these is still lever pressure so the air could not be drawn back into
the caliper.

10. Repeat steps 7-9 a few times. Check brake fluid level in the master cylinder or brake fluid
reservoir. Refill the reservoir to maintain the brake fluid level.

11. When brake fluid is replaced, fill the reservoir to 5 mm below the rim of front brake master
cylinder or up to MAX mark on rear brake reservoir.

12. Install the master cylinder cover or rear brake fluid reservoir cap.
13. Adjust free travel at the hand brake lever.

Free travel must at least be 3 mm. Only then may the piston in the hand brake cylinder be moved (to
be recognized by the greater resistance of the hand brake lever when the brake pads are pressed
against the brake disc).

Free travel at the hand brake lever may be readjusted by using adjusting screw (#1).

14. Adjust free travel at the brake pedal.

Measured on the outside, the foot brake pedal must have 3-5 mm of free play, before the push rod
can move the piston in the brake cylinder (to be recognized from the resistance on the foot brake
pedal).

The setting of the foot brake pedal can be changed by turning the end stop roller (#1). Using the
push rod (#2), the free play on the foot brake pedal can be set.

To keep the stop roller from turning while tightening, insert a hexagon wrench in bore [A].