Whe Image of Authority "Wve ream “aurnonrry" has auctor, which means to begin, to create, to author somethin word implies productivity. Another set of mes ‘auctoritas (Ue actual source ofthe English wor) legal powers ibe a person who has power over ather peopl fon, the individuals on the two sides are perceived as unequal. All three In any shape oF form, Emblems, implements, and other visual elements identify the extent, sphere,66 The image of Authority Representation of Adam and Cain in the a ‘ire of workers ofthe land, ca 1330, Adar more completely covered. Over a 1p and hose he is wearing a sheopstineloak, which offers protection while the sde vents enable kim wo move ‘fel. He aya el. Cannington, C, Lucas, and A Mansfield i967} Oceupa iland from the Eleventh Ce ‘ondon: Chases & Adam Black. Reprin bay permission of fon Johnson author's gine Ld) and boundaries of soc us vary’ attte required of workers by sanit and restaurants, for exampl es, logos, and special insig ih such privilege. U igoing action. Here, the uniform ineludk imers, whips, oraxes. These instruments referees, equestrians, and firs control, The extent of deference accorded to e status n departments, hospitals, aislines, fies the right 10 enforce polly. Com: on tes, blazers, and coveralls mark limited—in mental hospi- ‘als, prisons, and stockrooms, for example—proclaims the right io controlaccess, q Fred 8 ConreaiNVT Pictures) ‘Te Image of Authority 67 ed by uniforms that include coereive in struments, tools capable of inflicting harm, armed guards, police, and uni formed military personnel support the operations of justice, peace, and public order. The Social Meaning of Uniforms his study of uniforms Nathan joseph form the actor and the audience of what behavior to expei degree of control over those who must carry out the organization’ tasks, encour ‘aging members to express the ideas and interests ofthe group rather than their ‘own and thus enhancing the groupS ability to perform Its task. ‘The conferring ofa uniform or the salient parts of it, such asa police officer's shield or a nurse’ cap or pin, signifies that legal rights have been transferred jon tothe individual who represents it. The attire authorizes in #5 behalf. Because they represent the organi that the person has acquired relevant: persons conduct. ‘Suppressing personal choice of dress, the org the individual to his or her peers, underscores common membershi courages a sense of loyalty among members and faithfulness o th ‘The uniform serves to integrate wearers into a cohesive unit that will act to en- sure that organizational goals are attained, The withdrawal ofthe right to repre- sent the group is accompanied by a ritual that involves removing parts of the rm. Police officers lose the authority to arrest when they are asked to turn thelr guns and shields, To sui 2 uniform an individual displays adherence to group norms and standards. The uniform the attributes of the group and affects the wearer's behavior. Through that all other allegiances will be suppressed Displaying Rank and Power In work that invol that require quick response, such 2s serviees, the display of rank is necessary and made clearly visible. Through insignia, the line of com‘The Image of Authority heat of “hatle” is always in evidence, ensuring that there sience” Where uniforms are required, only those with the highest rank can avold ce. Jullus Roth, ‘of a tuberculosis hospital, discovered. individuals to put on the protective and mask required by hospital rules because not wearing the sitire ind cated their freedom from gatekeepers and other social control mechanisms. In their behavior they laid a claim to their true status, power—the right to exercise force. Similarly, the New York City police commissioner and other security ehiets appear ic in white-collar attire, that clothes beun- Nonuniform Uniforms in the Corporate World The image of a ferred mode of yecause it denies the personal, was chosen as the pre- we business class of nineteenth-contury England, The ‘men’s suit in its form-following style denied the body: in its somber color it rep diated public expression of feelings. It indicated that, so atired, the individval ‘would suppress personal desires and sentiments and conduct himself or herself the expected “professional” manner. A somber-colored suit with all elements coordinated to create a unified whole emerged as respectable attire in the white- collar workplace.? ng men with types of neckties, fashion reporter Ruth La Ferla identi- yarent or headmaster Invariably the ti a neat, button-down the wearers often prefer tes in school colors. Brooks Brothers and The corporate worker’ tie suggests “power, im.” IIs message is conveyed by a suitably ‘weighty pattern on a background of blue or claret-colored si te worker, Wears solid-color satins or etisp knit La Fela observed. F- Preference can determine the color and pattern ofthe tie as the style of shirt, collar, and cuffs, one’ occupational group seems to have a ms se choices. A 1989 study of American ‘male attitudes, purchasing patterns, and behavior patterns with respect to commissioned by the Te Rack, found that American men believe tha ers (CHOs) spent $31.00. Conservative colors, such as blue, were assoct- ated with investment bankers (53 percent), lawyers (59 percent executives (62 percent) whereas the study participants believed that adve executives wore almost as likely to wear red ties as blue ties. The participants be- lieved accountants and advertising executives, of all the accupational groups, a standard le of polyes By contrast, most darn ‘of Dress for Success, has insisted that his research shows that the appropriate mode of dress for those who wish to command respect continues to be the som {ertainment and cosmetics industries often choose a more stylish appearance Dody-hugging attire with a more visible fabric motif or texture. The general assumption is that, a in the theater, many roles cannot be bel ably performed without the aid of a costume. It enhances credible Similaty, the quality of fabric and fit makes rank vsil chy. Members of the corporate world gener ity of cloth and the better thet ravages ore cost superiors often have theirs made by custom tailors. The supetiors'superiors may secure theirs from even more exclusive tailors who provide even be and fit. Through their more imposing appearance, the h limit the threat of competition from the younger, more enetget The Executive Role ‘An orderly and handsome” appearance seems in authority before and after the American Reval Earle observed.!? With new wealth fram botEo The Image of Authority ddery: Governor John Winthrop (4588-1645 scarlet coats sent from England. In the fered imported fabric Im the South, planters a leading Puritan, had several dozen lonial towns of the North, shops of- assortment of omaments, and the latest fashi it crops to be sold before they could buy luxury clothing from London merchants. Because of this time lag, their clothing was more often sumptuous than fashionable.'* 'm sharp contrast to the plain attire of persons lacking an official position or the attire ofthe signers of the Declaration of Independence "showed no Republican simpl bserved Earle, John Hancock’ attire was of the richest, available and striking colors. The scarlet velvet suit he wore when he was declared governor (October 26, 1780} was designed to “make an impression, and yet not 10 appear over-carefully dressed.”'* ve" attire may be appreciated from the tory: On the eve ofthe Revolutionary War, George Washington wrote ‘letter to his nephew (George Steptoe Washington) in which he told him that to be considered fora leadership position he must abstain from pursuing the latest fashion, His choice of dress must conform to the prevailing fashion to “stand \welln the eyes of other peoples” and to “impress the simpler of their own folk’; hhe must be aware that distinct ns require different atte. in a certain degre is nevessary—but it does lays get a now coat, or ther clothes, spon every trfing change inthe mode when perhaps, hea two or thee very good nes by im—A person who is anxious to he a leader ofthe fashion, of one ofthe to fallow the ees of convince yo respect as you propedy ean ‘eat to Church, oF on ep some clothes 10 ld not be worn everyday. Knowingly or unknowingly George Bush took heed. In a report on the then- president's style of dress, Ruth La Ferla observed that when William Thoutlby, a New York image consultant and a former actor, said that “taken an adjustment,” he was not taking tailors talk. He was using a fancy thes- fan term for slipping into character—one that aptly described the presidents He wore a hard hat when tour- ‘ky steel plant, a ten-gallon hat in Texas, alab coat when warranted, tanged into camouflage when going hunting. Moreover, he followed a erate sartorial strategy during his campaign. Mtr, Bush wore 2 nondescript {an jacket, button-down collars, and bright-red regimental ties. His style said, “We are second in command,” Thourlby explained, After the lection, the publ Jay metamorphosis from a modostly outfitted Every: instripes, straight collars, and subtleties. His switch o blue n ‘was significant, It ascribed to the president stronger look, Thourlby sug- gested.!? Origins of the Image of Authority In artwork from ancient Mesopotamia and Imperial Rome, those with oi role are presented in erect postures an in reliefs, monuments, statues, ion of warriors convey an image of solidity. {garments—tunie-gowns to the midcalf and nall-studded leather stoles—the ‘warriors are shown marching in columns; moreover, the king's voluminous pres- ence appears in sharp contrast to the scantily dressed captives In the Stele of Hammurabi, ca. 1792-1750 8.c., Hammurabi, the ruler, is shown representing his people before an enthroned sun god as he receives the code of fori land between leaders by virtue of greate tual needs, jon and thelr desire to protect the people from natural disasters. As a result of swollen rivers and mud brought down from the mou crops were often threatened in Mesopotamia"? The desire ofthe priests and ers to overcame the precariousness ofthe p the strong, emphatic images they created realms, The mast drama he raised temple kriown as the ziggurat. Bull on stepped low and heavens above, the ziggurat resembled cmon Iwas the standard fra of al clases rom a senator plebelan” Aman banished fom ome would fst be Sippel of is oga "Toga distinguished Roman chizens rom the mat visors and the barbarian staves hat thonged Rome, To eclve respect, Roman men had to presenta dg nied sppearance, and wearing a tgs helped. The toga lint te number of fake a etn could perform, Ato, because the toga washed together oly by draping movement nd gstorehad tobe refined and ares come apart The oa sige of des could be adopted only becuse okizns dd not have to engage in physal labor they oul leave Th Christan secs ihat hid nthe catacombs ome ook the mb nies ofthe servant ase These servant the oc replaced the tga Symbol of acai, The early Chilstans also adopted a Tecan gulp2 The tmage of authority 8 cloaks, and the bright plaids and trouse During the first centuries of the ties conquered by the empire as well as in Rome was of two types: cultivated classes, short for workers Throughout time, authority has been carried by the garment: More complete covering and uniformity conveys more authority. The individual must measure ly. clothing of au the person it eontains arity Sociocultural Background of Uniforms th century, members of the medical profession wore white fying hierarchy, and claiming expertise over a specific body of knowledge. The belief prevalent a the ime, that God's universe is orderly and each person has a place within it, made possible the institution of a mode of dress that categorized people by occupation and rank ‘The Spiritual Realm: ‘Monastic and Priestly Attire the spiritual realm, between 1090 and 1950 Bc. two basic uniforms were med-—monastic attire and priestly dress. They represented the two differ ent paths to religious training and lie in the church, From reading the Gospels, the founders of monasteries concluded that a that was contemplative in nature and lived alo vas the only true path to God, who alone can se and ascetic fa theological schools near the dralsin cites. Already versed in the liberal arts, they were prepared for an active life in the secular world, The Christian bishops decided the clerics should make™ ‘The Image of Authority Power of the church to enlighten the population and in- n were weaned, they were re- siies, and as they got older ‘and learned expected adult behavior in inter ‘Through close supervision af the offspring’ attire the to adult roles. One of te les ofthe use encourage a very young child 10 as ‘vocation can be in is, when he was Idhood experience. His birth led his father co pledge the unborn ch So attired, the boy remained on the in their “games and menymaking.” Talking to God, Thou knowest what warnings, what ten to corrupting words from yy to Thee."® 1e taught me how and for what | ought Monastic Attire Monastic life requited detachment from the world. It de. _manded vows of poverty chastity, and obedience and a life of prayer rather than igthe rule the orders created in the es. Monks were to be clothed in long, loose-fiting, ‘made of plain wool. 1 ts were to be simply belted he various orders, believed that the vice of private ownership would be avoided if lied all necessary clothing: two cowls, 1wo tunics, stockings, y had to return the oldThe Image of Authority ly appearance. idated that those atthe top, such reserved, and cardinals and bish- elaborately embroidered with threads of gold, ‘was reserved for the most solemn affairs. All colors were worn by everyone who Said mass, but when clerics were in “regular dress," white was reserved for the Cardinals wore scarlet, bishops purple, and ab- lded hat, as part of the turgical dress of bishops. In 1049 he placed a the archbishop of reves, saying: “We adorn your head See. The image of Authority a indicators of rank and bear witness o the church, As vestments have gradi hhave acquired more mystical associ For many years, during mass, priests presented their backs tothe ct the backs of thelr vestments were elaborately embrok ‘munication, the priests were expected to face the congreg ront and back of their vestments have been decorated more or le and the vestments have been les richly ornamented, Ecclesiastical ative increased the body's dime demarcation between the secular and the sacred and and attire that represents the group. By identifyin e shoernakers ul Us insignia was @ ye clothed” meant that one had. 1 observer in 1347 remarked, od love among gyThe Image of Authority sney and discouraged their Ww women who did belong were not allowed to vty was expected to take place in (cates that spinning was the habitual means 'd women." But such women could not use their ise. A statute of the Siena guild of wool mer- 1297 t0 1309 read: “No one subject to the id lend any money to @ spins ied wool until she has done importance in the sieenth century when wideni ing trade led (0 a demand for new products, The man these produc ime specialized, req wed. APtWide World Pho king continued to be present vicariously in the law co through a state por n judicial decrees ce the court's deci at of arms, or the color ‘were promulgated, armed guards stood by ready to he sixteenth century n popular among the sumed the gene! shoulder plece, hood, and wigs marking levels of fs recerved80 The Image of Authority was free from the implications of wveyed solemnity -sof the South continued the pomp and cere- court, Scarlet robes identified judges; lawyers 1m Massachusetts, where the monarchy was re- tional judicial attire shared the same fate, Since the was regarded as the appropriate source of law, the clergy assumed j judges appeared in public wearing black robes, which had ¢ es in 1789, John Jay, the first chief ed the black academic gown as the appropri the physi- image of characteristics ofthe body, denies the personal being, and offers a they were also considered soldiers of s were replaced by retainers, who fought as an embroidered -men and yeomen Wear uni and the eatl of Oxford had his entourage wear em- he image ofa blue boar on the left shoulder and chains of a Henry Vil of England clothed his retinue in white satin, When he visited the rench king, the uniforms ofthe kings an tary uniforms were patterned after the harms added fashlonab ties atthe time, as observ forms were not rican War of Independence, formed, volunteer American so: appearance; they were blue uniforms assigned to them, the "Quaker plainness” oftThe Image of Authority and strength: @ The police officer cd Gender Images jonship benween clothing and gender is the understanding that sexual characteristics at birth ate the ienifying social expectations for sex-appro search has shown that very early in life, before children are aware of sex ferences, they are alerted to differences in dress, and that as early as two years of age they classify people according to gender? social categories, the members af which deal Goffman observed. Men are soc ized to use fe, grasp, and hold, Women learn to convey the feeling that their bodies are delicate and precious; they are supposed to ca objects and people? Psychologist J.C. Flugel suggested that the basis for sex-specific terdependence. He noted that visual dist been seen throughou Everyone assumes that people wear se “the natural order of approaching in clothing associated ‘members ofthe other sex. The ample, and the high heels, ga ie species depends on such a British costume historian James Laver suggested that sex-specific att Iles the social spheres nn function. The * underlies male dress: Men wear class-conscious attire that ing of appearance, thus, is closely tied to gender ex- pectations for behavior Socialization to Gender Glotiing is used to create a gender distinetion, as noted by Gregory P Stone. He rnewhorn in blue begins a sequent