Ikat fabrics have always been popular for their distinct style and

unparalleled beauty. If you have ever used one, you will know how unique
they are. We just introduced the most stunning Ikat woven fabrics into our
shop, all the way from Thailand Im sure youll love every one of them!
Even as we are obsessing over their finesse, I thought I should share with
you what makes them special. So, join me and find out all you ever wanted
to know about this gorgeous, hand-woven fabric.

Ikat Weaving
The term ikat refers to the dyeing technique used to create the designs on the fabric. It
is a resist dyeing process, where bundles of yarn are tightly wrapped together and then
dyed as many times as is required to create the desired pattern. This dyeing process is
different because the yarns are dyed before being woven into cloth. In most of the other
resist-dyeing techniques, like batik for example, it is the final cloth and not the yarn,
thats dyed.

Once the yarns have been suitably dyed and dried, the weaver lines them up on the loom
to form the pattern. The design takes form as the yarn is woven into cloth. This is an
incredibly complicated process, as the weaver has to precisely dye the threads, and
place them correctly so it forms the correct pattern when woven. Just to reiterate how
hard this is in order to replicate a pattern, the weaver would have to dye the thread in
exactly the same place as before AND line it up on a loom in EXACTLY the same
place AND then theyd have to weave it exactly the same way.

There are three different Ikat weaving techniques. These are warp ikat, weft
ikat and double ikat. Lets take a look at what each of them are.

Types of Ikat Weaving

The differences between warp ikat, weft ikat and double ikat depend on whether it is
the warp or weft yarns that are dyed to create the chosen pattern. If youre not sure what
I mean by warp and weft, have a quick read of my previous article, understanding
weaving.

Warp Ikat

In warp ikat, the weft yarns are all dyed a solid colour and only the warp yarns are ikat
dyed. Here, the pattern is clearly visible when the threads are wound on the loom, and
weaving in the weft threads solidifies the colour and completes the fabric formation.
Weft Ikat
In weft ikat, it is the weft threads that are ikat dyed. This type of weaving is more difficult
than warp ikat, as the pattern will be formed only as the weaving progresses. This means
that the weaver has to constantly centre and readjust the yarns to ensure the pattern is
formed correctly.

Double Ikat
The most complicated of the three, double ikat, is where both the warp and weft threads
are resist-dyed prior to weaving. This technique requires advanced skill, takes time and
hence is the most expensive. The Pochampally Sari and Puttapaka saris are native to
India, and feature exquisite double ikat motifs on silk.
How Is Ikat Fabric Made?
These are the various steps involved in creating an Ikat fabric:

1. The desired pattern is first drawn on the warp and weft yarns by hand.

2. The weaver then ties these yarns to match the planned pattern. The threads are then
dyed in the specific colours, so that the colours seep into the yarn at the appropriate
positions.

3. The ties on the yarn are untied, and the yarns are strung on the loom. In warp and
double ikat, the pattern emerges on the loom at this stage.

4. The fabric is then woven together, and the colourful pattern of motifs emerges on it.

For a pictorial description of each of these steps, I suggest you visit the HomeWorkshop
website.

History of Ikat
Although Ikat weaving is a complex technique, it is surprising how the technique is
believed to have simultaneously and independently developed in different parts of the
world. Ikat was brought to Europe at almost the same time by Dutch traders from South
East Asia as the Spanish from South America and explorers from the Silk Road.

Ikat fabric has been practiced in India, Indonesia, Japan and other South-East Asian
countries for millennia. This form of textile production is also popular in Central and
South American countries like Argentina, Bolivia and Mexico. The most coveted double
ikat woven fabrics come from Guatemala, India, Japan and Indonesia. It is interesting to
note that every Ikat Weaving group has its own distinct patterns, styles and choices of
colour.

Endek is an economically successful version of Ikat from Indonesia, as it has been taken
from its fabric form and developed into products. Originally considered a court-based
sacred fabric in Bali, it is now Indonesias most commercialised resist-dyed fabric.
Ikat In Fashion Today

Beautiful ikats featured in high fashion. Oscar de la Renta fall 2013 collection.

Fashion trends may come and go, but ikat fabrics have always stood the test of time.
Many designers and high street brands replicate the look of ikat with printing or a
jacquard woven fabric. An original ikat can be easily recognised from the faux printed
ones, by either looking up close, or simply turning the fabric over! Since ikats are woven
on looms, you can be certain that it is a genuine ikat if the same design is on the inside
of the fabric as well. The designer Oscar de la Renta has used the ikat style many times
in his design like the one above from his fall 2013 collection.

Ikat continues to be a designer favourite as it finds its way into dresses, shirts, fashion
accessories and upholstery. Vinita Passarys concept clothing label Translate is centred
around traditional ikat motifs which she uses to create trendy summer outfits and interior
products.