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Star Wars: Imperial Assault Storage Solution V2

Design Guide By Vidager

Figure 1 - Core box and Hoth box with lids on

Figure 2 - Boxes with lids off


Figure 3 - Top Tray - Core box with manuals and game insert removed

Figure 4 Core box, Middle tray


Figure 5 - Core box, bottom tray and stacked token trays

Figure 6 - Core box, bottom tray and token trays removed


Figure 7 - Hoth box, both trays

Summary of the design


Everything fits completely in the Core box and Return to Hoth box.
Fits core game and all expansions/packs through Return to Hoth wave (including Bantha rider and Echo base
troopers).
Designed to fit all of The Bespin Gambit wave with ease (if my calculations are correct).
Fits extra dice pack
Fits cards with normal sleeves. If you want to stick with premium thick sleeves, I have a design note later that
should cover your case (small mod needed).
Fits all figures in the standing position, except Bantha rider and Gaarkhan.
Fits all manuals, though will make your core game lid sit up a couple mm higher. I moved much of my paper
content to a binder, but thats optional.
Has token trays for easy play
Simple design that is easy to build
If you built my V1 design, this design uses everything you built in the V1, you just need add a couple dividers to
the bottom 50mm tray.

Materials
5mm foam board Tray walls
1.5mm card board (illustration board) Tray bottoms

Recommended Tools
Cutting mat
Cork backed metal ruler
Pencil
Utility knife
Precision knife
Sewing needles
Push pins
Tacky glue

In the United States you can get almost all of the above supplies for a good price at Michaels Arts and Crafts.
Unfortunately the card board (illustration board) is harder to find, and I was only able to find it at Ben Franklin Arts and
Crafts. Ive heard that Hobby Lobby has it as well.

Design
The design consists of three main trays and two token trays for the Core box and two trays for the Hoth box.

Figure 8 - Core box layout


For the core box, the bottom tray is 50mm high (51.5 with the bottom). Two token trays fit stacked on the bottom along
with the bottom tray and are 24mm high (25.5 with bottom). The top two trays can be stacked in the order of your
choosing. One is 40mm high (41.5 with bottom) and the other 30mm high (31.5 with bottom). On top of the top two
trays you can put the box insert from the core game (cut to fit) on top, and it will create a base to hold all your manuals.
More details on that later. The design also has the two AT-STs in the corner of the box, fully assembled, with General
Weisss AT-ST equipped with the big guns.

For the Hoth box there are simply two trays that can either be top or bottom. One is 40mm high sides (41.5mm with
bottom illustration board), and the other is 33mm high sides (34.5mm with bottom). This design causes the Hoth box lid
to be held up 5mm above the edge of the bottom box (as it rests on the top tray). 5mm isnt that big a deal and you
really need 33mm to get some of the smallest figures in standing position. If you really dislike the lid being up just a
little, you can shave a few mm off the 33mm tray. Keep in mind that having the lid rest on the trays is actually a good
thing and it makes your box very strong to support weight on top of it.

Figure 9 - Hoth box layout

One of the key space savers of my design is using the 1.5mm card board for the base of the trays, rather than foam
board.
Core Box - Bottom Tray
The bottom tray is can hold 39 of the small base 25mm standing figures, 2 Wampas, and the Bantha rider (though on its
side). It is also the highest figure tray (at 50mm), so you would put your tallest figures in this tray. If you already built
this tray using my V1 design, simply add the dividers shown in red in the diagram below.

Always be sure to check that the base of your tray (the 1.5mm illustration board) fits properly after you cut it out
according to the dimensions. Make any needed adjustments before building the walls/dividers with the 5mm foam
board.
Core Box - Token Trays
24mm high and pretty self-explanatory. When building the token trays, be sure to make their base footprint 1mm or so
smaller than the schematic, otherwise it might be too tight. Check the fit of your tray base before gluing on the walls.
Core Box - 40mm Tray
40mm high and stores all small cards, 2 Nexu, 2 E-Web Engineers, and 30 of the small base 25mm standing figures (up to
40mm high).
Core Box - 30mm tray
30mm high and stores most large cards, large tiles, hero cards, and Imperial threat/round tracker.
Hoth Box 40mm Tray
40mm high and fits all 4x4+ tiles, 1x2 tiles (on edge), 2x2 tiles, doors, Repulsor Tank, and 18 of the small base 25mm
standing figures (up to 40mm high).
Hoth Box 33mm Tray
This tray is 33mm high so that it can fit many of the shortest figures in the standing position. Currently there are 6 rebel
units that can fit standing under 33mm. I also put Gaarkhan and Chewie laying down in here. So how many figures this
tray holds depends on how many you have standing vs laying down. I have 8 in mine right now, and it can potentially
hold another 4 (if they fit standing), or 2 (if they lie down). The tray also holds the largest tiles in the game 6x6+, more
of the large cards (I put all the skirmish cards here), the 3x3+ tiles, and all the dice (including the extra pack: 22 total).

Note: If you are using premium sleeves and need more room for your small cards (i.e. 40mm core box tray isnt enough),
this is the tray I recommend you modify. Convert the 31mm and neighboring 53mm cell into an area to fit small cards.
Adjust measurements as needed so space isnt wasted.
Assembly notes and tips
Make your cuts on the cutting mat, using the metal ruler as a straight edge to pull your knife against for a clean cut.
Dont try to cut the foam board in one pass of the knife, you will mangle the foam. Do 4 or 5 light cuts, and keep getting
deeper. Youll end up with very smooth clean cuts.

I found tacky glue was great (and its cheap). You almost dont need sewing needles with it, but I still used needles for
extra security.

Needles will typically bend if you try to push them through the 1.5mm cardboard (illustration board). To avoid that, start
the hole using a push pin, pushing into your cutting mat.

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