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Rethinking "apacheta"

Author(s): Carolyn Dean


Source: awpa Pacha: Journal of Andean Archaeology, No. 28 (2006), pp. 93-108
Published by: Taylor & Francis, Ltd.
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Rethinking apacheta
Carolyn Dean

Apacheta are traditionally thought of as accumulations of small stones piled by travelers at high mountain
passes, places of precarious crossing, or otherwise significant parts of a journey, such as crossroads. Two six
te enth-century watercolor depictions of apacheta, featured in a late sixteenth-century manuscript by the
Mercedarian friar Martin de Mur?a, suggest, however, that prehispanic apacheta may have varied greatly in
appearance. This paper explores some of the implications of the Mur?a images, including the possibility that the
piles of rock are not themselves the apacheta, but rather are the offerings made to apacheta. It also considers
apacheta as the miniature embodiments of Andean topography designed to secure the aid of the sacred land
scape for a traveler s journey.

Por tradici?n, la apacheta se conoce como un mont?culo o una acumulaci?n de piedras peque?as creada por
pasajeros m?ntenos cruzando Us alturas peligrosas o llegando a un cruze o alguna parte importante de su viaje.
Sin embargo, dos aquarelas de apachetas publicadas en un manuscrito por el cura mercedario Mart?n de Mur?a
a fin del siglo dieciseis sugieren que U apacheta prehisp?nica puede haber variado bastante. Aqu? se exphran Us
implicaciones de Us im?genes de Mur?a, tanto como la posibilidad que la apacheta no consisti? del mont?culo
mismo, sino que representaba una ofrenda. Tambi?n se considera que la apacheta es una representaci?n de la
topograf?a andina, creada en miniatura para asegurar el apoyo del paisaje sagrado para el viaje del pasajero.

A pacheta, usually called apachitas in the colonial de piedras), but says they functioned as idolatrous
period, are traditionally thought of as accumu "shrines for travelers" {adoratorios de caminantes:
lations of small stones piled by travelers at high moun vana observancia idol?trica). The word apacheta is
tain passes, places of precarious crossing, or otherwise related to Quechua verbs meaning to carry and to
significant parts of a journey, such as crossroads.1 have something carried, as well as to bring or send
Diego Gonzalez de Holgu?n (1901: 27 [1608]), the things.2 Although apacheta was the Incas' preferred
Jesuit author of an early Quechua-Spanish dictionary,
not only defines them as "piles of stones" (montones 2 Gonzalez de Holgu?n (1901: 26-27 [1608]) defines the fol
lowing Quechua verbs: apani, meaning llevar, apachini, mean
ing "dejar llevar ? hacer llevar"-, apachikupuni, meaning
1 Because the Quechua plural, the suffix -kuna, is confusing "dejarse hurtar ? llevar algo por descuido"; apachikuni, mean
to many modern readers, but because adding an V would ing "enviar regalos de comida"-, and apachimuni meaning
produce a jarring bilingualism, I will use Quechua words, "hacer traer" La Barre (1948: 166) suggests that the term
such as apacheta, saywa, waka, and so on, in their singular apacheta comes from an Aymara phrase, apacheta muchani,
form. Alternative spellings to Quechua words will be pro meaning "I give thanks that this [a load or burden] has been
vided in parentheses. carried."

Carolyn Dean. History of Art & Visual Culture Dept., Porter Academic Services, University of California, Santa Cruz, CA, 95064,
csdean@ucsc.edu

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?awpa Pacha 28

term, they were also known by other names


such as cotorayaq rumi and camachico? Rumi
means "rock," and cotorayaq is derived from
the verb cutuni, defined by Gonz?lez de
Holgu?n (1901: 63 [1608]) as "to pile"
(amontonar); camachic or camachikuc is de
fined as "governor, magistrate, commander"
(gobernador, corregidor, mand?n) (ibid.: 48).
Cristobal de Albornoz (1988: 168 [1584]),
an investigator and extirpator of Andean
idolatries who recorded his findings in 1584,
describes them as a "very ordinary" (muy
ordenarlo) type of waka (huaca, that is, a sa
cred place or thing), and indicates that they Figure 1. Apacheta cairns at Patapampa, a mountain pass, Arequipa.
were commonly found along roads, especially
on slopes and where particular sights first come into
view; he also reports that reverence for them per
sisted despite the eradicating efforts of evangelizers
(ibid.).4 Apacheta cairns continue to be a feature of
the modern Andean landscape (Figure l).5
Two sixteenth-century watercolor depictions of
apacheta, featured in a late sixteenth-century manu
script by the Mercedarian friar Martin de Murila,
suggest, however, that prehispanic apacheta may have
varied greatly in appearance (Figures 2 and 3). Here
we explore some of the implications of the Murua

3 Polo (1916a: 189-190 [1571]) writes that ". . . los Serranos


adoran los montones de piedras que hazen ellos mesmos en
las llanadas, ? encruzijada, ? en cumbreras de montes, que en
el Cuzco y en los Co?as se ?aman, Apachitas, y en otras partes
las llaman Cotordyac rumi o por otros vocablos." Albornoz
(1988: 168 [1584]) reports that another word for apachita is
camachico.
4 Albornoz (1988: 168 [1584]) writes that apacheta are found
"en todas las asomadas y bertientes de los caminos, a las cuales
saludan y ofrescen los que van con cargas o fatigados de andar,
y les ofrescen una oraci?n o una piedra, de tal manera que en
los dichos lugares ay muchos montes d?lias." He adds, "Son
tantos estos que, si no es con amonestaciones buenas, no se
apartar?n de la creencia porque encuentran por momentos
con ellas en todos los caminos y puertos de toda la tierra,
Figure 2. Galvin manuscript, folio 80v, 1590 (Mur?a,
mandando a los corregidores y cl?rigos doctineros que cada 2004, v. 2, fol. 80v).
cual lo mande deshazer en sus partidos, es muy necesario se
haga" (ibid.).
5 For descriptions and analyses of modern apacheta, see Delfino
(2001: 117), Kuznar (1995: 82-85; 2001: 50-52), and La
Barre (1948: 166).

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Dean: Rethinking apacheta

manuscript, as it can be called for convenience, is


dated 1590, and is the earlier of two known illus
trated manuscripts authored by the Mercedarian
friar.6 Thanks to the prodigious efforts of Juan M.
Ossio, who located, transcribed, and edited the
Galvin manuscript, its facsimile was published re
cently with Ossio's commentary (Murila 2004
[1590]). The publication in facsimile of this manu
script, which, being held in private hands, is not avail
able for general study, was long awaited owing in
large part to the 113 ink and watercolor illustrations
it contains. As Ossio (2004: 38-39) has observed,
many of its images appear to have been executed by
the indigenous author and artist Felipe Guarnan Poma
de Ayala. Given the current controversies over the
authorship of El primer nueva cor?nica y buen
gobierno, perhaps it is more prudent to say that many
of the Galvin illustrations were apparently completed
by the same hand responsible for the drawings in the
Nueva Cor?nica. For the purposes of this discussion,
however, I will refer to the author and illustrator of
the Nueva Cor?nica as Guarnan Poma, and so will
be deferring recent thorny questions raised about
Guarnan Pomas authorship and draftsmanship of the
Nueva Cor?nica.7 Ossio (ibid.: 38) points out that
Figure 3. Galvin manuscript, folio 104v, 1590 (Mur?a,
2004, v. 2, fol. 104v). there are striking similarities in theme and composi
tion between nearly one third of the images in the
Galvin manuscript and corresponding drawings in
images, including the possibility that the piles of rock,
described by Gonzalez de Holgu?n, Albornoz, and
6 The Wellington manuscript, now in the collection of the J.
others, are not themselves the apacheta, but rather
Paul Getty Museum, was finished around 1613. Manuel
are the offerings made to apacheta. We will further Ballesteros located it languishing in the collection of the Duke
consider apacheta as the miniature embodiments of of Wellington; for his transcription of its text without its thirty
Andean topography designed to secure the aid of the seven illustrations, see Mur?a 1986. In 1985, Ossio published

sacred landscape for a travelers journey. They were, photographs of the watercolors from the Wellington manu
script; see Mur?a 1985.
therefore, always waka, places of reverence; while
some were offered common Andean items, such as 7 It has been alleged that Guarnan Poma was neither the au
thor nor the illustrator of the Nueva Cor?nica. For a discus
small stones, coca leaves and flowers, others, appar
sion of pertinent issues, see Adorno (2002), Barnes (2003),
ently of very high status, received child sacrifices. Domenici and Domenici (1996), Estenssoro Fuchs (1997),
The two depictions of apacheta featured here Guibovich P?rez (2003), Holland (2002), Hyland (2003:
in Figures 2 and 3 can be found on folios 80 verso 195-235), Mumford (2000), and Ossio (2000), as well as
and 104 verso of Mur?as Historia del origen y various essays, including some by authors named above, in
Cantil (2001). Clearly, the argument will not be settled any
genealogia real del origen de los reyes Ingas del Pini
time soon. However, given the self-referential nature of the
de sus hechos, costumbres, trajes, y manera de Nueva Cor?nica, both its text and images, I will continue to
gouierno. The original manuscript is currently in Ire credit Guarnan Poma as both author and artist of that prodi
land, in the collection of Sean Galvin. The Galvin gious work.

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_?awpa Pacha 28_

Guarnan Pomas Nueva Cor?nica. Additionally, many


of the other watercolors in the Galvin manuscript
share distinctive stylistic traits and fine points of ex
ecution with those in the Nueva Cor?nica.
The details of much of Mu??as life are unclear.8
He was an accomplished member of the mendicant
order of Our Lady of Mercy who worked in the cen
tral and southern Andes in the latter half of the six
teenth century and the first decade of the seventeenth.
He is known to us not only through the two chron
icles he produced, but through the work of Guarnan
Poma who refers five times to Murua in the Nueva
Cor?nica, casting the Mercedarian in an unflatter
ing light by accusing the friar of stealing his wife and
abusing Indians, and showing him beating an eld
erly indigenous weaver (Figure 4).9 Ossio (2001b)
concludes that Guarnan Poma probably once worked
with Murua as both an informant and as an illustra
tor, if not as a copyist. While initially they may have
collaborated on Muruas history of the Incas, at some
point they had a falling out with the result that
Guarnan Poma disparaged the Mercedarian in his
own "new" chronicle. Ossio (2001a; 2001b: 71;
Figure 4. Felipe Guarnan Poma de Ayala, El primer nueva
2004: 29-50) has also argued convincingly that cor?nica y buen gobierno, page 647[66l], c. 1615.
Muruas Galvin manuscript records information re
ceived from native informants in a less filtered man
ner than Muruas later version, known as the Wellington trators of the Galvin may well have been quite famil
manuscript, which dates to around 1613 and which iar with indigenous Andean beliefs and practices, and
the friar re-organized and revised in ways that make thus that we must take seriously the images of the
it more consonant with European histories.10 apacheta provided by the Galvin artist. Given that
My present concern is not so much who actu we have many colonial-period textual references to
ally executed the drawings in the Galvin manuscript, apacheta as piles of stones, the two depictions of
although many of them strongly resemble those in apacheta in Muruas Galvin manuscript are quite as
the Nueva Cor?nica, but that the illustrator or illus tonishing. Rather than depicting mounds of rocks,
the apacheta on folio 80 verso is represented as a
pyramidal structure, glossed "apachita? comprising
what looks like cut-stone masonry, and the apacheta
8 For discussion of what is known and can be surmised about
on folio 104 verso is a vertical stone surrounded by a
the life and work of Mart?n de Mur?a, see Ballesteros (1986:
6-11). dressed masonry wall. It would be rash to dismiss
9 See Guarnan Poma (pp. 517[521], 611 [625], 647-649[661 these Galvin apacheta just because they do not match
663], 906[920], 1080[1090]; 1988, v. 2: 480, 580, 613 our current understandings. After all, they are the
624, 848, and v. 3: 998 [1615]). For an insightful and con only visual depictions of apacheta surviving from the
cise discussion of the relationship between Mur?a and
colonial period. Even Guarnan Poma, who depicted
Guarnan Poma, see Ossio (2001b; 2004: 50-55).
10 For discussion of some of the alterations that Mur?a made a great many things in his Nueva Cor?nica, does not
to his text as well as additional insights regarding the picture any apacheta there.
Mercedarians unacknowledged sources, see Rowe (1987). While the apacheta on folio 80v is surprising in

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Dean: Rethinking apacheta

its manner of construction, it is, however, consistent


with chroniclers' descriptions of the locations of
apacheta; that is, they are found near well-traveled
routes as the Galvin watercolor shows. The apacheta
of folio 80v is located centrally in the drawing along
a major road, running diagonally across the page,
from which paths branch. In the illustration, the land
scape setting appears wild, with rolling uncultivated
hills. Also pictured are four virtually identical stone
huts, one of which is identified as a puytuc uasiy as
well as a casa para los chaskis, 2. shelter for the long
distance running messengers of the Incas.11 The la
Figure 5. Inka wall of coursed, cut and fitted stone
beled hut, like the other stone huts depicted, appears masonry, Calle Loreto, Cuzco.
to be constructed of stacked and apparently unworked
field stone. These huts roughly correspond to the
Jesuit Bernab? Cobo's (lib. II, cap. 32; 1979: 229 reader encounters a second picture of an apacheta.
[1653]) description of some chuclla, the two-man, Glossed "apachita? it is a pillar-shaped stone sur
oven-shaped, roadside huts made of stacked field rounded by a crenellated wall of mortarless cut-stone
stone without mortar that he says were built for and masonry. This apacheta closely resembles the so
occupied by chaski}1 Comparing the Murua puytuc called, and surely misnamed, Puma Rock at Kenko
uasi with the apacheta on folio 80v reveals that the (Figure 6). The upright monolith has a rectilinear
artist has very carefully differentiated between types masonry framing wall as does the Galvin apacheta.
of stone construction. Whereas the stones compris In fact, as Maarten van de Guchte (1990: 144) has
ing the former are rounded and irregular in size and observed, bedding joints on some of the ashlars in
shape, the stones of the latter have straight edges and the extant wall indicate that the barrier at Kenko was

are squared off Such distinct differences suggest a once higher, obscuring the lower portion of the ver
purposeful rendering of the apacheta as a constructed tical monolith.13 This is precisely what occurs in the
pyramid of cut and dressed ashlars fitted without Galvin image. The Galvins uncanny crenellations,
mortar in the manner of the Incas' renowned coursed which are unlike known freestanding Inca walls,
masonry (Figure 5). Because of the purposeful ren might well refer to a once higher wall in a state of
dering of a cut and fitted stonemasonry apacheta in disrepair, as worked ashlars were removed for re-use
the Galvin, we must at least consider the possibility in colonial-period structures. The Galvin artist might
that, under the Incas, some apacheta might have been thus have depicted the wall as it appeared in his time,
structures of fine masonry, rather than just haphaz that is, the late sixteenth century The crenellations
ard piles of found rocks in their natural state. might also be a nod to the semi-circular amphithe
The companion text on folio 81r of the Galvin ater wall at Kenko, which is associated with the ver
reports on the Inca road system without specifically tical stone. In Figure 7 we see not only the monolith,
referring to apacheta. Mur?a reserves comment on but portions of the concave wall beyond, its "cre
apacheta until his chapter on Andean idolatry. It is nellations" possibly produced by the removal of rows
in this section, on the verso of folio 104, that the of ashlars from a once higher niched wall, as first
proposed by Lu?s Valc?rcel (1934: 223-233), who
was in charge of the project that studied Kenko in
11 Santo Tom?s (1951: 342 [1560]) defines puytoc as b?ueda
1934. It is as though the Galvin artist has collapsed
(vault). Uasi (guasi, huasi, or wasi) means "house."
12 In this passage Cobo specifically refers to the chuclla of Callao;
he says that the huts for chaski varied in both medium and 13 Van de Guchte (1990: 144) estimates the height of the origi
appearance from region to region within Tawantinsuyu. nal wall framing the upright stone as two meters in height.

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_?awpa Pacha 28_

*? 1

EHflll^F 'lili flffl?iitr 'fr '^^^BjWWWffW^B*^

Figure 6. Vertical monolith, Kenko.

significant features of this portion of the Kenko site,


as it was in the late sixteenth century, in order to
produce this image of an apacheta.
Curiously, neither of the Galvin apacheta are
simple piles of rock even though Muruas text de
Figure 7. Vertical monolith and concave
scribes them as such.14 Like Murua, several knowl wall, Kenko.
edgeable individuals, such as the aforementioned
extirpator Albornoz and the linguist Gonz?lez de that the correct term is apachecta rather than the
Holgu?n, as well as native Andean chronicler Joan Hispanicized apachita, then proceeds to argue that
de Santa Cruz Pachacuti Yamqui Salcamaygua (fol. the word does not refer to a place of idolatrous wor
9v; 1993: 200 [c. 1613]), unequivocally define ship, but rather is a sort of prayer of thanksgiving
apacheta as piles of stone. Others, however, offer more issued to the creator deity by native peoples when
nuanced, if not more convoluted, perspectives. While they succeed in climbing steep inclines; he says that
in one report, the well-informed colonial adminis the word means loosely "that which causes to rise,"
trator Polo de Ondegardo (1916a: 189-190 [1571]; and that it implies the following: "we give thanks
1916b: 57 [1571]) refers to them as "piles of stones" and offer something to the one who enables us to
(montones de piedras), he also observes that they are carry these burdens and gives us health and strength
the summits of hills (cumbreras and cumbres). The to scale such rugged slopes as this" (ibid.: 78).15
Jesuit Joseph de Acosta (lib. V, cap. 5; 1962: 224), Garcilaso, who in this passage is clearly interested in
writing in 1590, likewise defines apachitas as "the deflecting notions of Andean polytheism, argues that
summits of hills" (las cumbres de los montes).
Writing some years later, the mestizo author and 15 Garcilaso (lib. 2, cap. IV; 1966, v. 1: 77-78 [1609]), writes,
Inca apologist, Garcilaso de la Vega (lib. 2, cap. IV; "To explain the name apachitas given by the Spaniards to
1966, v. 1: 77 [1609]) identifies apachectas as mis the crests of steep slopes which they say the Indians worship,
it is necessary to note that the correct form is apachecta. This
understood references to "very high hills" and "steep
is the dative: the genitive is apachecpa whence the present
mountain slopes" crossed by roads. He first notes participle ap?chec, which is the nominative. The syllable -ta
makes the dative." Garcilaso maintains that Andeans "never
14 Mur?a (fol. 102r; 2004, v. 1: 185 [1590]) defines "apachitas" use the word until they have reached the top, and that is why
as "los montones de piedra que hacen ellos mismos en las the Spanish writers call the summits apachitas-, supposing
llanadas o encrucijadas o en cumbreras de montes." Follow the Indians meant the latter when they were heard to use the
ing Polo (see note 3 above), he adds that outside Cuzco and word apachecta and not understanding its real meaning, they
the southern Andes they are called " cotorayacrumi." transferred it to the slopes."

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_Dean: Rethinking apacheta_

indigenes were actually thanking the creator (whom indicates that the cairns constitute the offerings of
they called Pachacamac) when they reached certain rocks left to the apacheta by passers-by. In other words
summits, rather than making offerings to the slopes the apacheta is the place where the offerings are left,
themselves. In fact, Garcilaso insists that "the gifts not the offerings themselves. More likely, however,
[of piled stones] were really rather tokens of their the cairns, although compiled as offerings, were also
feelings than offerings" (ibid.). considered to be waka. Indeed, as part of a different
While, as noted earlier, Guarnan Pomas well discussion, one not part of the author s refutation of
illustrated Nueva Cor?nica, finished by 1615, does polytheism, Garcilaso (lib. 2, cap. IV; 1966, v. 1: 76
not depict apacheta, the text does refer to them. He [1609]) indicates that Andean offerings to sacred
identifies apacheta as roadside shrines for travelers entities were frequently held to be sacred themselves.
found throughout Tawantinsuyu, but does not spe As diverse as these descriptions and definitions
cifically describe them.16 Like Garcilaso, Guarnan of apacheta may be, it appears as though they were
Poma (p. 263[265]; 1988, v. 1:236) says that apacheta travelers' shrines, just as they are still. Given Garci
honored "Pacha Camac." Unlike Garcilaso, however, laso's particular bias, we can set aside, at least for the
Guarnan Poma does identify apacheta as sacred places moment, his assertion that the word apacheta does
of reverence, saying that the mounds of rock and not refer to a place of reverence. We can conclude
other offerings were left as a sign (se?al) of reverence. that prehispanic apacheta assumed a variety of forms,
He also indicates that the tenth Inca ruler, Topa Ynga from natural hilltops, to pyramidal masonry struc
Yupanqui, commanded that travelers stop at apacheta, tures (like that on Galvin folio 80 verso), to mono
leaving flowers, or twined straw, or rocks in piles.17 liths and outcrops, which could be either shaped or
Although the Jesuit extirpator of idolatries Pablo natural (like that on Galvin 104 verso). What all
Joseph de Arriaga (cap. VI; 1999: 69 [1621]) ac forms of prehispanic apacheta appear to have in com
knowledges his use of Garcilaso as a source, he iden mon is that they received offerings from travelers
tifies the common focus of roadside reverence as a desiring comfort and assistance, or, as Arriaga phrases
"large stone" (piedra grande) which he says was nor it, "to get rid of their weariness" (cap. VI; 1999: 69
mally located on a hilltop; he maintains that the cor [1621]). The ethnohistorical sources mentioned
rect term for these shrines is tocanca, from the verb above correspond to modern ethnographic accounts
tucani meaning "to spit," a reference to the Andean of apacheta. While piles of rock are clearly the most
practice of spitting offerings of chewed coca and common variety, some researchers working in the
maize at the large rock shrines. Arriaga (ibid.) also Andes today find that apacheta vary in form.
identifies the cairns, or heaps of small stones, as of Lawrence A. Kuznar (2001: 50-52), for example,
ferings to the larger stones. Following his fellow Je describes apacheta as ubiquitous stone altars found
suit, Cobo (lib. I, cap. 11; 1990: 45 [1653]) also along roads, at boundaries, and on mountain passes;
although they most often consist of a few large stones
16 Guarnan Poma (p. 262[264]; 1988, v. 1: 234 [1615]) writes, with smaller ones stacked on top, they can become
"Los Yngas tienen tierra se?alado en todo este rreyno para very elaborate, sometimes having their exterior sur
sacrificios llamado usno, que es para sacrificar cienpre capac faces finished with mortar. Modern ethnographers
ocha al sol y a las uacas, uaca caray, al caminar apachita"
also engage in the debate, initiated in the sixteenth
17 Guarnan Poma (p. 263[265]; 1988, v. 1: 236 [1615]) writes,
"Mand? Topa Ynga Yupanqui que los yndios de tierra caliente
century, concerning whether the apacheta is a place
o los yndios de la cierra fuesen a lo callente, llegasen al of reverence or the actual object of worship. While
apachita. En ello adorasen al Pacha Camac y por se?al La Barre (1948: 166) concludes that the apacheta
amontonasen piedra; cada qual lleuase una piedra y lo echasen itself is a spirit to which offerings must be made,
en ella y por se?al dexasen flores o paxa torcido a lo esquierdo.
Kuznar (ibid.: 51) clarifies that it is because apacheta
Hasta oy lo hazen los yndios deste rreyno este uicio de
apachita." Guarnan Poma (p. 280[282]; 1988, v. 1: 253) also are located in auspicious places, that they themselves
says that "hichezeros como sazerdotes" served apachetas in
are considered sacred.
the provinces. While in prehispanic times, as in the present,

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_?awpa Pacha 28_^_

the form and composition of apacheta may have var


ied greatly, location and substance seem to have re
mained constant: apacheta were located along places
of passage and were petrous. That is, they were stones,
stone constructions, or stony places found on well
traveled routes. Recall that Albornoz (1988: 168
[1584]) identified them as particularly occupying
sloping roads {bertientes de los caminos) and places
where certain sights first come into view {asomadas).
This is interesting because John Hyslop (1984: 3 -
3), in his survey of various sections of Inca road,
found the remains of a roadside shrine just southeast
Figure 8. Carved monolith, Saywite.
of Hu?nuco Pampa at a place where "a traveler would
either lose sight of the city, or see it clearly for the
first time, depending on the direction in which he Guchte (ibid.: 210) points out, Saywite occupies the
was traveling." Hyslop (ibid.: 313) tentatively iden borderlands between the Incas and their notorious
tifies these ruins as a zeque {ceque) shrine, but did enemy, the Chancas, and thus is an appropriate site
not consider them as apacheta, a term that he re for a territorial marker.

served for piles of rocks exclusively. The images in The Saywite monolith, a carved granite rock
the Galvin manuscript, however, as well as the measuring approximately ten feet in length, nine feet
ethnohistorical textual sources, encourage us to re in width, and eight feet in height, located near a
think such methods of categorization based on ap waterworks, features an upper surface that has been
pearance alone. The Galvin depictions as well as the elaborately carved with terraces, channels, and a va
various colonial-period descriptions clearly suggest riety of creatures.19 If the Saywite monolith were our
that apacheta did not have to be piles of rock and only example, we might well conclude that saywa
that they could look very different from one another are carved boulders situated near borderlands. The
and yet apparently function similarly. This should Galvin manuscript, however, depicts six saywa set in
come as little surprise since the same can be said of a rolling landscape with one prominent mountain
other categories of Inca lithic monuments. Saywa (Murua 2004, v. 2, fol. 79v [1590]) (Figure 9). They
{sayhua, saybd), for example, were rocks or piles of are glossed sayhua, written in one hand, and mojones
rocks that served as territorial markers. The Domini delynga, inscribed in another.20 All six are shown as
can linguist Domingo de Santo Tom?s (1951: 350 cut and dressed stone pillars. They each formally echo
[1560]) defines sayua as a boundary marker {moj?n the mountain that looms over the portrayed land
o lindero de heredad). Likewise, Gonz?lez de Holgu?n scape. Guarnan Poma (pp. 352[354] and 354[356];
(1901: 330 [1608]) identifies say hua as a "marker of 1988, v. 1: 324 and 326 [1615]) depicts somewhat
property, territory, or boundaries" {moj?n de here similar pillars of dressed stonemasonry (Figures 10
dades, territorios, los linderos). The carved mono and 11). On page 352 of the Nueva Cor?nica he
lith at Saywite in Apurimac, the site s toponym itself shows two amojonadores who are in the process of
derived from the word saywa, is likely one of these constructing saywa. The companion text identifies
(van de Guchte 1990: 212) (Figure 8).18 As van de them as sayua checta suyoyoc, individuals who de

In the colonial period, the village was called San Pedro de 19 For analyses of the carved images on the Saywite monolith,
Saywita. Although there are many carved boulders and out see Carrion Cachot (1955) and van de Guchte (1990: 212
crops at Saywite, the most elaborately carved is the so-called 236).
Saywite monolith. The effusively carved stone is likely the 20 Ossio also makes this observation (in Murua 2004, v. 1:
saywa referred to by the name of the village. 163, note 134).

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Dean: Rethinking apacheta

SIP-:; \ ?-v
Km!.::.;: ?

Figure 9. Galvin manuscript, folio 79v, 1590 Figure 10. Felipe Guarnan Poma de Ayala, El primer
(Murua, 2004, v. 2, fol. 79v). nueva cor?nica y buen gobierno, page 352[354], c. 1615.

fine boundaries by setting markers and trenches (p. as saywa and as mojones. Like apacheta, then, saywa
353[355]; Guarnan Poma 1988: 325). The follow were petrous, but apparently varied gready in form.
ing illustration, on page 354[356], depicts three very They could be carved or not, and monolithic or com
similar monuments situated along Inca roads. Al posed of many stones; if comprising many stones, those
though Hyslop (1984: 296) tentatively identifies stones could either be dressed and fitted, or left in
them as markers used for measurement, they could their natural state and piled up.
also be saywa, markers of boundaries.21 While the In the text associated with the depiction of saywa,
saywa in Mu??as manuscript might be either circular Murua (2004, vol. 2, fol. 80r [1590]) credits Topa
or rectilinear, Guarnan Pomas more clearly appear Inga Yupangui, the tenth ruler, with re-districting the
to be circular, with the ashlars possibly enveloping empire and with establishing new boundaries by
stone in its natural state. This latter aspect can be means of saywa that delimited agricultural lands,
seen particularly on page 352[354] where one builder mining zones, community property, and so on.22 This
places an ashlar against the upper section of a stone is the same ruler whom Guarnan Poma (pp. 263 [265]
with a rounded surface, creating the appearance of a
pillar of cut stone masonry with a curved top. Today 22 In Mur?a's revised manuscript of 1613 (the Wellington),
in the Andes, large piles of rocks are identified both the Galvin's chapter on boundary markers ("Del orden que
hab?a en lo de los mojones y jurisdicci?n de provincia") was
integrated with few changes into one entitled "Del orden
21 Specifically, Hyslop (1984: 296-297) identifies them as tupu que hab?a en bs distritos de las provincias, y en los caminos"
markers with a tupu being an Inca measurement equivalent (Murua 1986: 370-372 [1613]). The later manuscript does
to something between 6.2 and 9.5 km. not illustrate any saywa.

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?awpa Pacha 28

cluding a wanka from serving as a saywa, and also as


an apacheta. In fact, a particular apacheta might even
have been thought of as the "owner of the road" where
it resides. Sukanka (sucanca), pillar-shaped rocks used
for solar observation, and saykuska {saycusca, saicusca,
saycuscca), megaliths abandoned en route to a build
ing site (and, therefore, like apacheta, frequendy found
roadside), could also have functioned in multiple ca
pacities. The point is that, to the Incas, and with re
gard to many petrous waka, form apparendy did not
follow function. Consequently, the same rock, or piles
of rock, might have been categorized in several dif
ferent ways depending on how they were being used.
Because the key to identifying Inca petrous
monuments does not seem to have resided in their
outward appearance, let us return to our discussion
of apacheta, focusing for the moment on the two
traits identified above: stoniness and roadside loca
tion. Given these two indicators, we might nomi
nate at least two of Machu Picchu s prominent rock
monuments as contenders for being apacheta. First
is the so-called Sacred Rock, located at the northern
end of the Machu Picchu palace complex, near the
somewhat precarious path to Wayna Picchu (Figure
Figure 11. Felipe Guarnan Poma de Ayala, El primer 12). Also at Machu Picchu is the so-called Funerary
nueva cor?nica y buen gobierno, page 354[356], c. 1615. Rock, also sometimes known as the Sacrificial Stone
and the Ceremonial Rock (Figure 13). It is found at
and353[355]; 1988, v. 1:236 and 325 [1615]) cred the southern end of the site near the exit to the Inca

its with instituting the reverence for apacheta, as well road. Because rounded river stones were deposited
as setting saywa. It would not be surprising that a in the area near this rock, and rocks are the kind of
saywa located on a road might also have been an offering we are told was commonly made to apacheta,
apacheta. In other words, one function likely did not and since it is itself a rock located near a well-traveled

preclude a lithic monument from serving other func route, we might well conclude that it functioned, at
tions as well. It may well be that certain rocks served least sometimes, as an apacheta, as a place for offer
several functions simultaneously. In addition to ings made by travelers. Although today apacheta are
apacheta and saywa, the Incas and other Andeans usually thought of as occupying lonely stretches of
likely identified many kinds of petrous waka accord road apart from human occupation, there is nothing
ing to function rather than form. Wanka {huanca, definitive in the ethnohistorical record that indicates

guanea), for example, were rocks (and waka) that were apacheta were only located in the wilderness. Likely
understood to be the petrified owners of places, such settlement growth, both in colonial and modern times,
as fields, valleys, and villages (Duviols 1979). Lo as well as extirpative activity, would have obscured
cated in the place that it owned, the wanka was a or destroyed many apacheta associated with sites that
symbol of occupation and possession. Llaqtayoq and have been inhabited since the Spanish incursion.
chakrayoq (the lithic "owners" of towns and fields, In addition to their location and substance, both
respectively) are both particular types of wanka of which make them possible apacheta candidates,
(ibid.). There is nothing, aside from location, pre both the Sacred Rock and the Funerary Rock formally

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Dean: Rethinking apacheta

replicate mountains. This trait is consistent with many


known apacheta, whether constructed in pyramidal
form (as in Galvin folio 80v) or gradually assuming
a mountains shape through accretion over time (as
in the familiar piles of rock). Other apacheta were
themselves the summits of mountains, or otherwise
identified with mountains. The Apacheta Inga?an
(Apacheta Inca Road), for example, a pile of rocks
which today measures approximately one and a half
meters in height and four meters in breadth, and is
located on the Ca?ar-Azuay Inca Road in Ecuador,
bears the same name as the mountain located to its
west (Hyslop 1984: 23). While it is impossible to
sort out which one was named first, the identifica
tion of this apacheta with a mountain that overlooks
it, and the road it companions, is clear. Thus, we
might suspect that apacheta embody significant to
pographical features, such as hills and mountains,
the great watchers of the Andes who oversee all they
survey. While mountain-shaped apacheta clearly form
miniature peaks, a hilltop or summit crossed by a
traveler is also a small portion of the larger moun
tain it occupies. In valleys, or at crossroads, the cairns
made up of offered stones actually create, through
the addition of rock offerings over time, the hill
Figure 12. "Sacred Rock," Machu Picchu. shaped apacheta where the hill-shape did not origi
nally exist. The "large stones" mentioned by Arriaga,
whether or not they were actually peak-like in form,
could also embody sacred mountains, as it is the case

Figure 13. "Funerary Rock," Machu Picchu.

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_?awpa Pacha 28 _

that throughout the Andes, boulders and outcrops rogates for topographic features, a function implied
near or in villages commonly are regarded as the by the term representation.
embodiments of important hills or mountains located Apacheta, as embodiments, are the very stuff of
on the distant horizon. In the Cuzco region, for ex Andean topography, focused?in miniature?and so
ample, small rocks are capable of embodying the readily accessible and available to receive the gifts
powers of sacred peaks such as Mount Ausangate they are offered. The use of miniatures throughout
(Gow and Condori 1982: 13). In northern Chile, the Andes, both past and present, is well documented.
anthropologist Thomas Barthel tells us, the residents By manipulating miniatures, Andeans assert a mea
of the village of Socaire use a boulder in their Octo sure of control over many aspects of their world from
ber agricultural rituals which is named Chilique, the crops, to domesticated animals, to society itself. Thus,
same name as a nearby mountain; the mountain we might surmise that at least some apacheta were
Chilique, the provider of water for crops, is embod (and are) perceived as the diminutive incarnation,
ied at the ceremonies through the miniature Chilique or, better yet, the miniaturized petrescence of spirits
boulder to which offerings can be made directly (see associated with Andean topography. As small-scale
Zuidema 1986: 184-185). Although in these ex embodiments of aspects of the sacred Andean land
amples, the large stones are not used as apacheta, it is scape, apacheta could function as places where offer
clear that, in Andean visual culture, rocks of various ings were made, whether located on hills themselves
sizes and shapes could and did embody topographi or at a distance, and could also have been themselves
cal features in miniature. Thus, it is not hard to imag the objects of reverence.
ine boulders or outcrops functioning as apacheta in Interestingly, in the Andes, miniatures may be,
prehispanic times. but are not necessarily, resemblant. Illa {yIla), for
Whether or not apacheta are representations of example, amulets carried for luck, vary widely in form
actual hills and mountains, I suggest that they are (Rowe 1946: 297).24 An ilia can be a small stone
always "presentations" of them. That is, regardless of sculpture, often shaped like a camelid or a bird, with
appearance, of whether they look like specific peaks, or without a depression for offerings. According to
apacheta embody mountains, hills, and other signifi Gonzalez de Holgu?n (1901: 154 [1608]), illa also
cant topographic features by or over which travelers means piedra vezar, a bezoar (a stone-like concretion
must pass.23 Embodiment, which can be thought of found in the stomachs of camelids and other rumi
as material metonymy, is distinct from representa nants). Ilia, which can be translated "bright or shin
tion. A representation necessarily operates though ing one," also refers to shiny things or to stones that
alleged similitude (that is, one thing looks like an are sacred because they have been struck by light
other) and thus can be described as a visual meta ning (called illapa) (Lira in Niles 1999: 205). The
phor, owing to the fact that it operates through the Incas apparently referred to a variety of small things
perceived likeness of things. A material metonym, in that were associated with the bringing of good for
contrast, operates by means of a relationship of parts tune as illa Thus what they did (their function)
in which one thing that is perceived to be a part of,
or materially related to, a second thing, becomes it.
Thus, embodiments are neither substitutes nor sur
24 Flores Ochoa (1979: 85) describes illa used in modern Parada,
Department of Puno, as "shapes representing animals, made
of white stone or metal, or [they] can even be a simple rock
23 Delfino (2001: 117) tells us that today in the southern Ar of a whimsical shape found in the countryside." For more on
gentine puna, after offerings of stone, coca, alcohol, and to contemporary ilk, see Flores Ochoa 1977.
bacco are made, "Pachamama," "SantaTierra," or other names 25 According to Salomon (Salomon and Urioste 1991: 74, note
for the earth are invoked for a good journey. While I believe 257) ilh are sacred objects containing "the fecundating es
that apacheta are more often associated with specific topo sence of the good they represent." While they are usually
graphic features, the practice of thanking the earth over which petrous, itta can also refer to magical persons such as twins
one must travel is clearly related. (ibid.: 255).

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Dean: Rethinking apacheta

trumped what they looked like. Similar to ilia and [1615]). Pachacuti Yamqui Salcamaygua (fol. 9v;
other miniaturized items, then, apacheta may some 1993: 200 [c. 1613]) avers that the Incas invented
times visually resemble the topographic features they apacheta and introduced them throughout the Andes.
embody, but it is not necessary that they do so. If this is true, the Incas may well have had a hierar
On Galvin folio 104 verso, the apacheta is shown chy of apacheta, some with much higher status than
as the recipient of the most precious of offerings?a others. Likely, however, given their widespread and
child. In the drawing a priest, labeled echisero (wiz perduring usage, the making of travelers shrines pre
ard), offers bundles of coca leaves and colorful feath dates the Incas, and the Incas, with their unparal
ers to the apacheta in addition to the youngster. The leled road system, co-opted pre-existing local prac
companion text indicates that while apacheta com tices. The Galvin text and illustration suggests that
monly received offerings of feathers, shells, chewed while common pile-of-stone apacheta might have
coca and maize, stones, and sandals worn from trav received small offerings, such as flowers, stones, and
eling, some were offered fine cloth, camelids and straw, there were also prestigious apacheta shrines that
children (fol. 103r-104r; Murua 2004, v. 1: 185 were the focus of elaborate state-conducted rites with
188 [1590]). Albornoz (1988: 168 [1584]) confirms copious offerings of the most valued kind.
that apacheta were offered a great variety of things, In conclusion, while the offerings of rocks pre
although his list, which includes flowers, feathers, sented in piles to apacheta were both more common
and branches, as well as chewed coca and maize, con and more commonplace, the Galvin manuscript hints
sists of fairly common items. Albornoz also describes that some apacheta also received very precious offer
how straw found near the apacheta would be knot ings, and thus that some apacheta were waka of great
ted.26 The knotted straw may be explained by the importance in prehispanic times. The two Galvin
fact that those who made offerings at apacheta con apacheta, long hidden away but now brought to light
fided in the waka, telling it of either their travails or (at least in facsimile), open the door to the reinterpre
good fortune (sus travajos o prosperidades) (1988: tation of some extant rock monuments. Kenko's Puma

168 [1584]). Like a poor persons khipu, the knot Rock and Machu Picchu s Sacred and Funerary Rocks
ted straw may have functioned mnemonically as a are three examples of known lithic monuments lo
record of the travelers accounts of good or ill tid cated along well-traveled routes that I have tentatively
ings. Arriaga (cap. VI; 1999: 69 [1621]) says that identified as apacheta here. At the very least, the
old sandals and knotted straw as well as chewed coca Galvin watercolors insist that we rethink our notions

and maize could be left, as could little stones piled of prehispanic apacheta, both what they might have
into heaps. looked like and how important they were in the con
The offering of children was generally an activ tinuum of Tawantinsuyu's many sacred monuments.
ity regulated and overseen by the Inca state, and child
sacrifice was usually associated with the most impor
tant of Andean waka. The Galvin manuscript s de Acknowledgments
piction of a framed outcrop apacheta receiving a child
sacrifice, then, requires us to rethink not only the This material was presented at the 46th annual meet
form, but the relative status of prehispanic apacheta. ing of the Institute of Andean Studies, Berkeley (Janu
The Galvin may show here an important state-con ary, 2006). My thanks to those in attendance who
structed and administered apacheta, the kind that offered insights and helpful comments. I am also
the Nueva Cor?nica says was permanently served by grateful to the following: Christine Bunting and the
priests (hichezeros como sazerdotes) in service to the staff of the UCSC Library's Special Collections, Steve
state (Guarnan Poma, p. 280[282]; 1988, v. 1: 253 Chiappari, Nicholas Tripcevich, Enrique Mayer, and
the editor and anonymous reviewers at Nawpa Pacha.
26 Albornoz (1988: 168 [1584]) writes: "Otros hazen nudos a Manuscript preparation was funded by UCSC Arts
las pajas quest?n cerca [Us apachitas]" Research Institute and Faculty Research Grants.

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_?awpa Pacha 28_

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