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Conditioning 2
Conditioning 2
for everyone
MY 21 DAY CONDITIONING KEEP, TIPS AND POINTE
R
By: FERDIE C. DUCE
PEC
I have been fighting roosters regularly for roughly thirty years way back my hi
gh school days. At that time when most of my peers were in to playing video game
s, chess or attending parties and the like, yours truly was already busy tending
and fighting roosters. Yes, the thirty years or so of experience has taught and
untaught me a lot of things and lessons regarding the art of cockfighting. I ha
d the privilege of owning and conditioning both imported and local fighting cock
s and raising most if not all the best and popular game fowl bloodlines that set
foot in the country. Of equal importance, is the privilege of having been assoc
iated with the best game fowl conditioners especially when I was starting in the
sport. These long years of experience has taught me how to put my roosters in s
hape and ready for big time competition. What I shall impart with you is based o
n my personal /first hand experiences.
Let us begin by the kind of roosters that we shall condition. Please remember t
he following: No amount of scientific conditioning contained in this keep can t
ransform a mediocre rooster to an ace cock. All we can do to our second rate roo
sters is to bring them to their full potential. Thus, it is best if you fight yo
ur mediocre fowls in hack fights where the chances of meeting class A opponents
is less.
**Only class A roosters stand a chance to win the Derby Championship in today s
top competition **
What is a class A rooster? The following for me are the requisites: First, You
r rooster must come from a winning line or family that has been winning consisten
tly and currently in the derbies. Second, the rooster must be fresh and in robust
health ( he must not have been moderately or severely ill throughout his life).
Third, the rooster must possess nice conformation ( proportional size and stati
on in relation to his weight), Fourth, There must be no visible or physical defe
cts such as, severely curled toes, broken/damaged wing and or tail feathers, bum
ble foot, crooked breast bones etc , Fifth, he must be properly aged, ideally 30
months and above, where he is at his physical and psychological peak., Sixth, He
must be a good and consistent sparer, not an erratic performer. All these requi
sites must be present for a rooster to be in the class A category.
******DAYS 19 AND 20
NO MORNING WORK, 4:00AM JUST LET ROOSTERS WALK INDIVIDUALLY INSIDE
LIGHTED RUEDA
FOR TEN MINUTES, THEN PUT THEM BACK INSIDE THEIR COOPS. REPEAT THI
S AT 12:00PM AND
4:00PM AFTERNOON. BEFORE FEEDING THEM PLACE THEM INSIDE SCRATCH BOX
FOR ONLY FIVE
MINUTES MAXIMUM, JUST ENOUGH TO LOOSEN THEIR MUSCLES.
TIPS ON SPARR
ING
Why do we spar roosters? Most often, roosters are sparred for entertainment pur
poses especially when friends or buyers are around. It can show case each rooste
r s fighting styles and abilities. However, sparring roosters during the condition
ing stage is done quite differently when they are sparred during the pre conditi
oning and/or maintenance stage. When my cocks are in the pre conditioning and ma
intenance stage, I see to it that they are sparred once or twice a month. My sta
gs are sparred at every other four days. I spar them just to have them accustom
ed to being sparred and more importantly to monitor and record which among them
are the very good and consistent sparrers. You may at this stage spar them alte
rnately on grass and at your rueda. Two rounds of three buckles each is enough.
I usually spar them before being fed in the morning or afternoon. Rate them as f
ollows C (Deficient), B (average), B+ (good), A (very good), A+ (excellent), A++
(super). Don t play favorites and be objective when rating them. For your selecti
on of candidate cocks/stags to be placed in your 21 day keep, only choose from
among those who are consistently rated as A and higher. Selection is key in wi
nning derby championships.
Sparring sessions during the 21 day keep is done around 4:00 5:30 am. Your sparr
ing days shall be Days4, 10 and 15 during this 21 day keep. This will serve as y
our gauge as to which among your candidate roosters are most worthy of being fie
lded in. Again, always record and rate each rooster per session as objectively
as you can. During the 21 day conditioning stage, you must now always spar in yo
ur rueda under fluorescent lights. It is nice if you can also play a loud radio
to accustom them with the lighting and various noise conditions inside the pit a
s close as possible. Try to heat and release your roosters as if you are already
atop the pit in the actual fight. Release your roosters in the manner you inten
d to release them come fight time. Two rounds of 2 to 3 short buckles is enough.
Always remember to bathe or shampoo your roosters the day after their sparring
day. I use mite free or Wash out shampoo for roosters which I find both effectiv
e and fowl friendly. Remember this, We do not intend to acquire stamina and endur
ance during sparring, again this is only our gauge on how ready our roosters are .
Too much and long sparring will only do more harm than good as it will sap the
energy and vitality. It also is the main reason for our roosters to sustain inj
uries such as sprains, muscle strains, dislocated joints, damaged beaks and spur
s not to mention broken tail and wing feathers. Worst of all over sparring will
only ruin your roosters sharpness and edge. Don t spar your roosters to the point
of exhaustion. We want our roosters to be razor sharp as possible come fight tim
e. We want them to be on edge , thus be able to kill their opponents as quickly as
possible and full of vigor and reserved energy to be able to last the ten minu
te time limit during a long battering drag fight if needed.
** DEWORM ALL CANDIDATE ROOSTERS 7 DAYSBEFORE THIS 21 DAY KEEP REGIMEN AND
REPEAT DEWORMING 12-14 DAYS BEFORE THE FIGHT.
**BATHE AND/OR SHAMPOO ROOSTERS THE DAY AFTER EACH SPARRING SESSION
**MAKE IT A POINT TO DOUBLE THE NUMBER OF YOUR CANDIDATE ROOSTERS ESPECIALLY IN
A BIG
EVENT YOU ARE PARTICIPATING. THUS, YOU MUST HAVE 8 GOOD CANDIDATE COCKS FOR
A 4 COCK
DERBY EVENT.
***NEVER NEVER USE STIMULANTS, STEROIDS AND OTHER ARTIFICIAL DRUGS/SUBSTANCES TO
YOUR
PRIZED ROOSTERS.THIS WILL ONLY RUIN THE WINNING CHANCES OF YOUR COCKS AND
HAMPER
THEIR FIGHTING STYLE. I HAVE ALREADY TRIED USING ALMOST ALL OF THESE SO CA
LLED WONDER
DRUGS, MOST OF THE TIME UNSUCCESSFULL.YOU MUST JUST BELIEVE THAT ACE ROOS
TERS ARE
PRODUCT OF THE BROOD PEN.
***YOUR CHEAPEST INVESTMENT IN THIS SPORT IS THE ACQUISITION OF QUALITY BROOD MA
TERIALS AS THIS WOULD DETERMINE YOUR DESTINY IN THE SPORT.
***ACQUIRE BROODFOWL ONLY FROM ESTABLISHED BREEDERS WHO SHALL SELL YOU HIS WINNI
NG BLOODLINES. CONSISTENCY AND LONGEVITY IS THE NAME OF THE GAME IN THE SPORT. S
HORT LIVED BLOODLINES AND NICKS COME AND GO, BUT THE BEST ONES ARE HERE TO STAY.
*** TRY YOUR DARNEST BEST TO FOLLOW STRICTLY WHAT I HAVE SHARED WITH YOU AND IT
WILL SURELY INCREASE YOUR WINNING PERCENTAGES DRAMATICALLY FOR AS LONG YOU ARE U
SING QUALITY BATTLE FOWL. WHAT I HAVE SHARED HERE HAS BEEN PROVEN OVER THE YEARS
IN THE TOUGHEST PITS IN ARANETA, ROLIGON, PASAY, MAKATI, CAINTA, SAN JUAN AND O
THER TOP COCK FIGHTING VENUES.