Contents

Introduction 5
Loincloth 6
Chemises 8
Petticoat 9
Cami knickers 10
Girdles 11
Bikini Briefs 13
Stockings 14
Thongs 15
Corsets 16
Pantaloons 19
Lingerie 21
Miracle Bra 22
Spanx 23
Conclusion 24
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E ve may have cornered the market on fig leaves, but

womens underwear has come a long way since she tempted Adam
with the forbidden apple.

Going back to the days of the Pharaohs, loincloths were the first
recorded under-garments worn by women. (Aside from fig leaves, of
course!) The cloth was wrapped around the hips, through the legs,
and often made of cotton or silk.

Even thousands of years ago, women loved the feel of luxurious

textiles against their skin.
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5000 BC: Loincloths

Worn by cavemen and
Pharaohs alike, the loincloth
is the longest existing style of
underwear, comprised only of a
piece of fabric wrapped around
the hips and through the legs.
For a more of a luxurious take
on the modest garment, the
upper class wore silk versions.

In Ancient Greece, women

wore the first pre-cursor to the
modern day bra called an
apodesmos, which was a piece
of cloth wrapped around the
chest and pinned in the back.
Similarly, Rome had the
fascia, a garment that
flattened the breasts because
their culture considered large
breasts to be unattractive.

Oh, how times have changed!

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The Crusades came in the early

11th century and lasted through
the 15th century, with women
playing an active role.
Whether for military purposes,
spreading Christianity, or
gaining territory for the Roman
Empire, the Crusades were a
dangerous time.

As warriors, recruiters, and

supporters, women were
intimately connected to the
Crusades, and with these new
roles came the need for new
undergarments. The chemises
made its debut in this time, and
was designed to keep sweat and
body oils off outer garments.

Both men and women, made

from silk, satin, or cotton wore
chemises. They also served as
nightgowns and looked similar
to the Roman tunics from
which the design originally
came. This fashion lasted
through the Middle Ages until
the dawn of Enlightenment.
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Middle Ages: Chemises

Not unlike slips worn today, the chemises was a long, flimsy
undergarment worn under dresses. The gossamer chemises worn
by the mythological figures in Botticellis 1477 painting Primavera
is a more ethereal version of the practical, modest versions
everyday women wore.

At this same time in history, the dudou was gaining popularity.

This bib-type garment was the precursor to the bra and minimized
the breasts. Chinese culture valued the boyish figure, as opposed to
the more curvaceous one found in Europe.
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1830: Petticoats
Petticoats were firmly established in fashion by the mid to
late 1500s. Used both for warmth and creating the desired
shape of a dress, petticoats were worn under a dress to
create a bell-shape, depending on the width of the
petticoat. In the pre-Civil-War south, women wore
multiple petticoats to create the wide hooped look, which
enhanced their corseted tiny waists.

Lavish fashions of the 1800s introduced a number of

new undergarment accessories for women,
including the crinoline petticoat an underskirt
cage worn to create a bell shape.
While the result was a charming Scarlett OHara
look, we cant imagine how uncomfortable it
must have been to sit while wearing one of
these contraptions.

In the 1950s, petticoats were shortened to

a fun, flirty length and worn under poodle
skirts. These shapely undergarments are
still worn today, usually to enhance the
silhouette of bridal gowns.
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Cami-knickers
During this time the bandeau bra and cami-knickers were
extremely popular, because of their softness. The bandeau bra was
a comfortable piece of cloth worn to flatten breasts, as the boyish
figure was still in style. Cami-knickers were essentially rompers,
worn under dresses instead of bras and panties.

In the 1930s, women finally began to wear pants, which meant a

new type of underwear was a needed- girdle. These girdles were
actually shorts that gave women a smooth shape in their new,
bold step to fashion equality. Girdles of this era were made
from rubber, which might be somewhat comfortable,
but certainly not breathable.
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1930s: Girdles
Although stiff corsets remained a thing of the past, women in the
1930s still embraced a bit of shape wear. Flattening the stomach
and extending over the thighs, girdles create a small waisted
silhouette without any of the dangerous constrictions of corsets.

In 1947 Frederick Mellinger revolutionized womens

underwear. He opened a boutique on Hollywood Boulevard called
Fredericks of Hollywood. And introduced the country to both
black lingerie and the very first push-up bra. His philosophy was
that lingerie should make a woman feel right in her body.
Celebrities flocked to his store which made other women began
want to shop there as well - the rest is history.
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Stockings
As we move forward to the 1950s, we would be remiss if we didnt
touch upon garters and stockings, the precursor to pantyhose.
Men were the first to wear stockings, typically knee length and tied
off with a beautiful piece of embroidery. As tunics became shorter,
the hose eventually went all the way up to waist high.
Conversely, women wore socks up until Queen Elizabeth I
received her first pair of silk knee high stockings in 1560.
Even still, silk stockings were a luxury that many could not afford.
The combination of stockings and garters didnt really take hold
until the 1800s. Even then, it was not wildly popular, considering
all the other layers of undergarments women wore then.
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However, in the early 20th century, fashions became much simpler,

and stockings were needed for warmth when bare legs were
exposed. In 1959, Allen Gant Sr. invented pantyhose, which were
an effective solution to the panty garter stocking combination.
He simplified the design, creating one garment that comprised
hose and panty together.

Along with pantyhose, the 1950s brought bikini briefs and bullet
bras. Women were really beginning to own their sexuality and
loving the freedom of wearing undergarments for comfort.

1950s: Bikini Briefs

Named after an island in the Pacific Ocean, the bikini grew to be a
popular style of underwear that remains a favourite today. Thanks
to the development of rayon and spandex, intimates became
comfortable and cute, unlike the plain, industrial undergarments
worn for centuries before.
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You may find it hard to imagine

today, but before the 1970s
women used worked out in
their regular bras. It wasnt
until 1977 that Lisa Lindahl
designed the first sports bra,
called the jockbra, which was
invented by putting two jock
straps together. Sounds odd,
but we all love the design result!
Finally, women could work out
with support and comfort.
Bullet bras were designed to
create shape and no pin-up
model was caught without
one. They cone style cups were
extremely comfortable and fit
many breast sizes without the
need for additional padding or
material like under-wire.

The first sports bra,

called the jockbra,
was invented by putting
two jock straps together!
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Brazil revolutionized the

underwear world in the 1980s
by releasing the thong. This
style became very popular, as
they didnt show panty lines
when wearing tight fitting
clothes. Thongs come in a
wide variety of colours and
fabrics, from silk to cotton,
and everything in between.
The rage with thongs carried
through into the nineties and
they are still popular today.

1980s: Thongs
First gaining popularity in
South America, thongs
became a favourite in the
United States in the late 1980s.
Composed of a triangular piece
of fabric and strings, the risqu
under things show an eerie
resemblance to the original
loincloths perhaps
underwear hasnt changed that
much at all.
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Renaissance: Corsets
The rising popularity of corsets in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries
caused Western women to start suffering for fashion, as the lace-up bodices
cinched their waists and flattened their chests. This painful trend remained
popular all the way up to the beginning of the twentieth century.

The corset has its own unique history, beginning in the Renaissance and spanning
5 centuries. They are still used today, though not as vociferously. When the corset
first came to be fashionable, it was not a required garment. During the 16th and 17th
centuries, stays were a stiffened undergarment worn to create an almost conical
shaped figure, flattening the breasts as opposed to pushing them up.

For a brief period, dresses came with almost built-in corsets, as the material
was extremely stiff & bodices were made to fit snugly on a womans figure.
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As time wore on, the waist slid higher, known as the empire
waist during Elizabethan times. The old style of corset didnt work
with this look, so the new version took on more of a bra-style,
with individual cups lifting and separating the breasts as its
main function.
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Cruising into the mid-eighteenth century we find the waist
returning to its normal place with the corset shape we know and
love today. Back then; corsets were worn to create tiny waists,
while pushing the breasts up and together, which could create an
hourglass shape on almost any size of woman. However, the trend
of wearing a corset as tight as possible could make them
detrimental to ones health. Around this time in history, fainting
couches were more of a necessity than a luxury, because women
could not breathe deeply enough to bring oxygen to their brain,
which often caused fainting spells.

Thankfully, todays version of the corset is much more comfortable

and has no real health repercussions. They offer support and slim
the waists without suffocating the wearer. They come in a wide
variety of designs, fabrics, and styles. Whether you fancy darker,
sexier, and richer materials or favour the light, pastel, and soft
fabric, you can find something to suit your desire.
 19

Another fashion of the 1800s was the pantalet.

Often confused with pantaloons or bloomers,
these were worn to cover the ankles of ladies, as
dresses were worn higher on the leg at this time.
The pantalets had lace hems and offered a touch of elegance when
peeking from under the long dresses. In contrast, bloomers were
baggy pants often worn by more radical women. Interestingly
enough, bloomers gained more popularity and were later worn by
men for activities such as bike riding.

1870: Pantaloons
Near the end of the nineteenth century, rising hemlines meant that
women had to cover up in different ways. Introducing, pantaloons:
Long, baggy trousers worn under skirts and dresses so that despite
shorter skirt lengths, risqu calves and ankles remained concealed.
20

Moving
forward through
history, the Roaring
Twenties came flying in
on the heels of World War
I and, with it, womens rights
and lingerie. Women were
becoming freer thinking and
beginning to take the first steps in
embracing their sexuality. This change in
womens perspective opened up avenues not
only for equal rights, but creativity in the
underwear industry.
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While
most of the
attention may
have gone to their
bobbed hair and short
skirts, flappers also
introduced a new style in
underwear lingerie. Previously
plain and white, undergarments
became decorative and less modest as
they were worn under trendy short dresses.

These women had a freer sense of sexuality and

wanted the underwear to match. The lingerie
designed in this era is stunning, made of rich fabrics
such as satin, lace and silks. The goal was comfort, not
constriction, which matched the attitude of women in this era.
22

While Frederick Mellinger created the original push-up bra,

the Victoria Secrets Miracle Bra revolutionized the bra-world
once again in the 1990s. These bras changed womens lingerie
because it gave women with smaller size breasts an opportunity
to fill out their figure, and women who are well endowed got a
lift a winning design.

1990s: Miracle Bra

Victorias Secret, the largest American lingerie retailer, introduced
the Miracle Bra, selling 2 million in its first year. The brand also
started their annual fashion show in 1995, establishing lingerie as
an outlet for entertainment.
 23

All of the styles and modifications through history led us to the

development of Spanx. Every prior piece of lingerie helped to shape
womens bodies, whether comfortably or painfully.
Spanx developed into shape wear for all women of every size who
are looking for a smooth silhouette under their clothes. They can
be worn every day or just for special occasions as they are very
versatile and come in a wide array of styles.

2000s: Spanx
Founded in 2000, Spanx was introduced originally as a pantyhose
company, before becoming a modern shape wear staple, grossing
over $250 million in annual revenues.
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Today
It isnt unusual or unheard of to see a woman in a sports bra
and leggings at the supermarket, or a version of the old chemise
being used as a dress by adding a belt. From modesty to hygiene,
lingerie has offered women throughout history the ability to
express their sexuality in whatever style they deem fit.

Taking cue from Madonna in the 1980s,

the line between outerwear and
underwear has been blurred as
more women embrace the
trend of showing off
their lingerie rather
than keeping it
under wraps.
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Lingerie today means much more than just fancy

under garments. Some brands like Neon Moon, in
contrast to the way the lingerie world currently
likes to project itself; it features underarm hair,
young women with cellulite, and describes itself as
a feminist brand- giving rise to the term
Feminist Lingerie.

What Neon Moon pledge is that listening to young

womens feedback is whats going to distinguish Neon
Moon in the lingerie industry, and drive the brand
forward. Neon Moon, explains, wont place pressure on
girls Its important for girls not to compare themselves to
unachievable standards of beauty, but to succeed in their
own way, and not purely via the male gaze. Hallelujah!

All we have to say is...

More power to your
bra straps, woman!
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Bibliography
www.neonmoon.co/
www.bitsoflace.com/blog/advice/the-evolution-of-lingerie/
www.goodhousekeeping.com/beauty/fashion/tips/a24247/evolution-of-underwear/
 n
licatio
h s a n d Pub
rap
hotog
s t r a t ions, p hat Ka
ur
Illu
s i g n by Ana T echno
logy
De ig n &
rt, Des
s t i t u te of A
iI n
Srisht 2017