a eee PET arenas FLEET BECOMES A oT LL ee ‘SHOULD THEY BUILD-A FENCE PUG ir tr ema) a eM LA act Dee Suse lela ae BLL Bea reekstopped -at the home of Thomas Williams, manager of bis publishing house, and found young Judith, a toddler, playing on the floor with an open: copy of Adventures of Huckleberry Finn. The infant seemed fascinated by « drawing, and soon what was remembered as a “general excite- ment” broke out when she spoke her first words: “Huck Finn! Huck Finn!" So delighted was Twain that on his next visit hepresented Judith with a memento—the original pen-and-ink drawing by Edward Windsor Kem- ble, signed “Truly Yours, Mark Twain.” In the years since, scholars have looked in vain for thar original, upon which so many Huck Finns were subsequently based. Unbeknownst tw them all. it remained in the Williams family for these past 85 years. Now Lessing Whitford Wil- liams, Judith’s brother, has presented the drawing to the Mark ‘Twain Memorial in Hartford, Con- necticut. He did so after reading “Mark Twain: Mirror of America,” in last September's iss “Thanks to NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC, Memorial's Curator, Wilson Faude, recently wrote to us, “this drawing of America's most important literary character isnow available forall toenjoy.” And that, we must admit, tickles our fancy. ALMEA DL cing [: TICKLED Mark Twain's fancy. He had NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC May 1976 Life Springs From Death in Truk Lagoon 578 From Graveyard to Garden 604 World War I! rarned an idvilic: Pacific harbor into. uw flaming hell when U.S. Navy bombers sank some 00 Japanese vessels, Studying this sunken fleet more than a quarter of @ century later, biologist Sylvia A. Eurle-and photographer Al Giddings find a unique display of nature's power to heal, Should They Build a Fence Around Montana? 614 Mike W. Edwards anit Nicholas deVore 117 took ar the land of big sky at a critical moment, when staygeriny riches Beneath the surface musi be weighed against a mere subtte kind of wealth—open spare and the right to enjoy it Growing Up in Montana 650 A picwre essay ky Nicholas deVore HL Sea Gypsies of the Philippines 659 The bout-dwelling Bajaus have come to a momentous crossroads: give uip their wandering ways or continue to live with scant education, medical care, or respect from settled neighbors, By Anne de Henniny Singh and Raghubir Singh, Spain's Sun-blest Pleasure Isles 679 Over the centuries, the Balearics have survived one conquest after another. Ethel A. Starbird snd James A. Sugar find them happily weashering ne more axseuit: myriad holiday seekers, armed with dollars, pounds, francs, and marks. Mexico’s Long Distance Runners 702 James Norman and David Hiser explore the virange half-lost world of the Tarahumaras, whose idea of sport is t0 kick @ wooden ball day and night, sometimes for as miach ax 200 miles COVER: The ocean's prodigal growth shrouds 4 tank, still sitting upright on the deck of a sunken Japanese Vessel itt Truk Lagoon (pages 578-614), Photograph by Al Giddings.Life Springs From Death in Truk Lagoon By SYLVIA A. EARLE, Ph.D. Photographs by AL GIDDINGS Once a testament to destruction, a Japanese ship's mast has become a tower af for marine growth and hordes of hungry fist In 1944, United States air raids on Truk, Japan’ bastion in Micronesia, sank some sixty vessels. During a pioneer study of the wrecks—darth’s largest concentration of tnun-made reef—the author glides above Figjikatea Mari. to have chanced upon a vast submarine cathedral. Framed against the surface, the ‘ship's mast and yard extended crosslike as if in bene~ diction, the coral-encrusted arms wreathed in halos of schooling fish. Turning to my diving partner, Al Giddings, T wrote on my underwater slate, nature time, and 2-sunken warship resembles a place af worship.” Al gestured toward a heavily encrusted stern gun nearby, then scribbled, “And guns have garlands.” ‘The impression of a hallowed site was more than. mere illusion, for our sunken ship was both memorial and tomb for scores of Japanese sailors killed during ‘World War IL. On the morning of February 17, 1944, a United States Navy air attack caught a fleet of Japanese merchant vessels and warships by surprise at Truk, in the Caroline Islands of the western Pacific. After continued attacks, some sixty ships and thousands of men lay at the bottom of the Pacific, to remain undisturbed for more than a quarter of a century, For all its tragedy, that long-ago event presents marine scientists today with a unique opportunity. ‘The sunken fleet of Truk Lagoon represents not only the world’s largest collection of artificial reefs but also one whose-age is precisely known. It offers invaluable clues to the growth rates and patterns of the abundant marine life that congregates around submerged reefs. It was this fact that had brought Al and me to Truk Lagoon. Few undersea laboratories are more beautifully situated. The Truk Islands, now part of a United, States trust territory, consist of 11 musjor islands and scores of islets within a 40-mile-wide lagoon sur- rounded by a protective coral reef imap, pages 584-5). The water of Truk Lugoon is not only crystal clear but normally calm, an advantage both to me asa marine hiologist.and to Al as an underwater photog- rapher. Sometimes called “a lake in the middle of the Pacific," Truk Lagoon is a quiet haven set ina broad expanse of open sea. ‘Arriving at the settlement on Moen Island Inst summer, Al and I chartered a 30-foot diving support boat for our research and signed on Kimiuo Aisek, a likeable 43-vear-old Trukese scuba diver who had witnessed the 10M air attack asa boy-of 17. Kimiuo’s memory of the event and his detailed knowledge of the lagoon floor saved us many days of searching for particular wreel of our early choices-was the sunken “cathe- an armed aircraft transport, Fujikawa Mari. Measuring 436 feet in length with a 59-foot beam, she had carried Zero (Continued on page $82) FE ONE AWESOME MOMENT we seemedTn the deathly » Old Wounds Now More Than Healedand fear. “For more than two years after- ward,” Kimiuo recalled, “oil from ships and planes covered the beaches and reefs: But the sea is healed naw.” More than just healed, I thought time and again, as T explored the array of plants and animals covering Fujikawa Marn, Any salid object placed in the sea is likely to become home for passing plankton, an effect known as the “substrate phenomenen.”” Onee, on an oceanographic expedition in the South Pacific, | scooped a drifting feather from the open sea mare than 200 miles from aniy shore, and in so doing captured a host of Unexpected travelers: three minute goose barnacles, attached to the base of the feather; a slender madibranch; several young crabs; and a-tiny jacklike fish that apparently had taken refuge under the frail umbrella. Exploring Three Decades of Growth Here in Truk Lagoon T was faced with this same phenomenon on a grand scale, in the form of Figikaiwa Maru and some sixty other enormous artificial reefs. No one hadl recorded the kinds of plants and animals that settled and grew on these during the first month, of the first year, ‘or even the first quarter of a century after their sinking It was now my goal to help document what had taken place during more than three decad Not all the large corals and giant motlusks on the sunken hulls could be 31 vearsold, but they positively could not be more than 31 years old. Studies by others elsewhere sug- gest that the rates of coral growth vary greatly, depending on the species and the eco logical conditions in which the corals live. Individuals of the same species may develop at different rates, depending on their age and the amount of light. food, ancl space available. J explained our task to Kimiuo: “I want to locate and tag the largest corals we-cun find, ‘This will give us an idea of the maximum size reached since the ships sank. Dividing a coral’s diameter by 31—its maximum age in years—gives us the minimum average yearly growth rate, We'll also mark and measure small corals and return later to seé how much they've grown. Once we've established anew’ starting point, measurements can bemade at any time to see haw fast—or how slowly— these corals grow.” Life Sprinigs From Death in Truk Lagoon Al photographed, Kimiuo and I set about measuring and tagging. We encount- ered some unexpected giants among the corals. The largest, a species of Stylophora, screw like a chrysanthemum on the bow gun awa Morn, supporting a thriving community of small fish, crabs, polychaete worms, and algne. More than five feet across, it had clearly increased its diameter at an average rate of no less than two inches a year. An exceptionally large black-coral tree of the genus Antipatives grew in 60 feet of water on the starboard side of the ship. In my years of diving I have seen many examples of this commercially valuable coral, but most were in deep water and few exceeded a height of three or four feet. This specimen stood 15 fect high. Many of our measurements, in fact, exceeded! those for the same kinds of corals elsewhere in the world. To gain insight into short-term growth rates, I cleared a number of areas on several ships to bare metal, including a section of an- chor chain, portions of rails and beams, sev- eral patches on decks, and a-ring around the barrel of Figikawa Marv’s stern gun. Within a few hours reddish-brown rust filled each of the cleared places: In time the living mantle that I removed will be replaced, and growth rates based on a new starting point can be established. Live Shells Not the Only Dangers Each day I-became more fascinated as 1 worked with this beauty-and-the-beast par- adox. Deadly weapons, tanks, and trucks Wwere frosted with pink-ind-white pints, sponges, sea squirts, and corals. A blue sponge indifferently covered the nose of an artillery shell 18 inches in diameter (page 590), ane of several in a disorderly mound of ammunition, in a bold of the freighter Yomagiri Maru. 1 admired the sponge but felt a ripple of appr hension as 1 touched the point upon which it grew, recalling that these shells had been intended for the giant guns of the Japanese battleships Musayie and Yumate, Rach, when fired, had a range of more than 20 miles. It remained for something with far less. range—a mere two inehes—to cause my mast anxious and painful moments in Truk La- goon. During several dives on Fujikawa Maru T observed a lionfish (Ptervis volitans) that had taken up residence in the ship's stern gun. S85“@YIBRALTAR OF THE PACIFIC myth of Truk’s impregni the Japanese Combined and F ping-stone for m the home islands to the: so dawned on February 17, 1 ed U5. warp key sti wo days“*Operation Hail hombs and aerial torped ta the bottom, Ten w dded a «core more. For T stantial fr life te lagoon flotilla of artifi results, De. Earle and her team diveson 11 of the wrecks. Afler a of to the protructing forward h thes final victory, ech erty Thow abave}. Ben T Jules Vern the Si other to nck Leagues Uneter tear ene ar horrors. But at level, their reign cease appear f with terrest nitty: feet Pruk’s ghostly fleet now helps biologists tudy the sea 5 wotouerens "i pete pL e SAUTE es ‘ Eieeations and soundings in meters, Upper figure. aod feet wet Iden tified shipwreck SS Identificatian ances tain DROWNED VOLCANO shaged by 2125-mile nectlace af coral, Truk’ 40-mile-wide lagoon ix asuperb natural anchorage. Many ships sunk in the 1964 attacks, hidden in up to 256 feet of water. have yet to be ditcowered ot positively identifeed. Notes describe 1 major vessels explored by, Dr. Earle’ team; forations dice approximate, SHICHIYO | ioaeiiliee SHIP CHANNEL Ladi oe WANAKAWA Masta Oras Reet Onan.comAL REEF % 2,58 = a £ Yes 36 o Nertheart, isfands 1.8 YAMAGIRI MARU. The 439-foot freighter: pee. ‘cago of 1a-inch projectiles never reached ite destination — the gums of eupechattleships # va : Yamhate and Musashi, wr = 8 = FUUIBAN MARU: Recentiy- < a located, the #94:-feat oi! tanker falas 6 Heron ite port side. © y SHINKOKU MARU: Thu | ‘Sod-foot armed ail tanker | ‘Hes putt 20 Feet below thestirface. ISLANDS ~, ee : 5 “ a See © pusIkAWA MARU: Fire gutted ie ene ‘the interior of this $261 | aineraft transport after an aevial: » SAN FRANCISCO. J Thsses toeuniteerst. flea 250 Feet aw, stil lied th sop oan ate Sener toconvert hig | Wt-foot carga vessel tot war. She torpedo struck her arzidslips Holds oa 3 j caren ae ghee part pane ee ed sear Ane rn cee (parts, and ammonition — , GH WRECK", ’ re ea Maris tc ios vwental rests of 2 steep incline, its stern jst nix feat below the wurfice 6 : a SANKISAN MARU: The rear ‘of the #30-foot munitions ship.” RIO DE Ji OMARL _ AMAGISAN MARU; Tisai of. r pare ite oe taisted In the holds of thin ¢di-foot © so “oil and aviation fur feak fart the “pin intoagiganticstee! Flower Be sonal eosin a #S4-feot cargo vessel, which sank 2S hers, ignited ecargo !" guns, coal, and in 20 Feet of water of bomb fee ter beerbottier _~ ¥; Ube.Lionfish are beautiful, but notorious for the painful, even deadly, stings the with their venomous spines. I mentioned the lionfish to Al and he de- cided to photograph it, so we dived together to the gun, 70 feet down: (nage 601), The lion: fish, however, refused to cooperate and remained half hidden inside a crevice, At length I decided to try and maneuver it out into the open, something I have done in the past, though with great caution Inching forward, 1 eased my hand along the fish's tail. It-responded to my gentle mo tion and began moving into the open, Then it did something T had not anticipated: Tt made an abrupt tilt in my direction with its dorsal spines, a defensive mation. I waited a mo: ment before moving again, but the fish was evidently alarmed, for it tilted again ‘That was enough for me. I started. to with- deaw my hand, but the lionfish suddenly tilt- ed once this time vigorously, and through my diving glove I felt a sharp jab below the nail of one finger. I'm sure T only imagined a look of self-righteousness on my cket as it darted away. Removing the glove, I examined my finger and saw a trickle ‘of green—hlood, as it appears more than 50 feet below the surface. more, An Hour Seems an Eternity T was in trouble and T knew it. This was our second dive of the day, and we required an hour's decompression before surfacing in id the bends—the painful, and in fatal, formation of nitragen bub: bles in the bloodstream. | escorted me to a paint ten feet below the surface and watched intently to see if my re- action to the lionfish’s venom became serious As pain began to spread through my band, I tried to entertain myself by watching a grace ful school of small damselfish flow around wikawa Mart’s stern: mast. Never before had I tired of the sight of their electric-blue . but within ten minutes I closed my nd could think of nothing but the intense, stabbing agony that was building in my finger. Only twice before had I known such pain: briefly, in a dentist’s chair, and during childbirth Tears came. 1 wanted to cry out, but with a regulator in my mouth and ten feet of water ‘over my head, I could only remain silent order to a some. ca Inexorable fingers of marine growth clutch the rpm indicator for Fujikaroa Mares pro- peller (above), Japanese instrument labels were often in English On San Fram Mari:, a munitions ship, the chemistry of the tly defuses a cache of mines (right) After 45 minutes my finger had swelled to nearly double its normal size, and my arm, and shoulder began to ache as well. But final ly, as the hour ended, the sensation of fire began to diminish, Al helped me aboard and the worst of my ordeal was over. But the burning in my finger continued for two more hours, and tenderness and swelling were evi- dent for several dan From Fujikawa Mara we turned our atten= tion to San Francisco Maru, an armed mu- nitions transport that had been proposed for demolition. One morning Al and I asked Kimiuo to guide us to the wreck. San Francisco Marw rests in 250 feet of bstantially deeper than most div would care to venture, The 30-minute excur- sion we planned required double tanks, and Al placed additional cylinders on the deck of the dive boat with regulators and long hoses attached for mid-water decompression, ‘The ship proved invisible from the surface. tpproached the 100-foot. eve! that itscerie outline appeared—perfectly oriented, upright and fully intaet (pages 5: 93), Three small tanks. and atruck were neatly in place on the foredeck, each beautifully embroidered with lacelike plants, Half a doz- en more tencks, like metal skeletons in a cata~ comb, on platfarms below We “d to look at the forward hold filled with (Contintied on page 308) National Geographic, May 1976— Xs 4 . : * Sess ittee teae yh a sponge festoona San Fragclico aa , Rater peers eed tee ae ey ee ee ee Ce taCorrosion crumbles ¥ ; “ ae 1 FE , * » a. y Ae S a P t r F 4oa ce camonflages Fujikawa Maru's Te aoe) ecCi from paige 586, hundreds of ie adorned with th anti-landing-eraft mine oned with orld’s faire Jd come with me to oralline algae, then aft ar 2 I r ucent comb: F Ww on row of nid ott with ban ridescent cilia passed inition carefull here. All were rough my hair a: secure, potentially € ing through the natu ner x ly object will be re Mar I h Yet hips, most eloqu § nem with t waste of war, She should zzling, bu : ic final mi vd Ovean Jewelry Enlivens Long Waitshote page 612) Al fumecl “When they know I'm ready to take a picture, the ¢ fish watch,” ad Gets a Mixed Response Truk’s ted! on. the As bas h often preoccupied with Is, I concent ith the shi et the pace f ul settlers: T » habitat anty for limited plant g then ited food will be generated to support ents lly or partiall ¢ kinds of drifting plank- Ms flourish in com: Mare hes anc ropical re numerou e directly on the local 2 One day joined by slants. diving boat we were Trukese Kimi harvest of a purzled. ¢ likes t of Sankisan Mov urs the site (right); a g device hangs from he year Since 1 am effort to hide my enthusiasm for plants: Rare. ty do [eat but in this ease I decided t turn the tables ecting Kiminc yasicallya botanist, I make no sea f he me fresh pu re a with him to see Kimiuo accepted my greer ing with some hesitancy. In Japa gathered for sals a two Kimiuo announced that vinegar would improve thi vor. But Steve Bower rn. ssistant, was less enthusiastic uthful he declared, “I'll take the v you can keep your Ce e » of our diving I counted more thin a hundred spy en, red, and algae, including 1 in Micronesia. One min Its W genus of ndently. di Austr: year in 1, and the Comoro Islands we yet to be namedk Lagoon were ae known as rs, adorn the guns, ow: in extraordinary Adiacent to Buji- literally 15, sprout on the lade lace the abundane keawa Mara withat beams, on the decks the seafloor iment composed almost solely Halimeda fragments, which we hips ous small a ved mals, charaeteri cof ie en up residens in ck. They flour: chips ished like penthouse dwellers, above their seafloor neighbors. Once, while in Figikawa Mart to 7S feet digsing among the chips near the stern, 1c placed Dy With, spots and large eyes (below). I stopped digging and looked for others, and soon, spotted 13. bur rows close by. As | watched, Twas amusec Refuge for reef life, Hulinieda aligae {top) decay into;a thick carpet, providing hove: burrow quarters for a shrimp, atid a sob The half-blind shrimp keeps tt shipshape while the fish stands: watch. ee row, pushing a load Luter, Aln urlous. fis was laughing when he came That fish!” he said. “He's uh shrimp does all the work. The fi there and supervises! The “boss” fish and shrimp were not the only chip dv Occasionally 1 glimpsed two.or three ephemeral blue fish among the with Kimiuo th film the Kimiuo urn stucean association. » the surface bows. The h just sits chips, each nearly five inches long; they scemed to dissolve as | approached. We found the same fish at a depth of a hunered feet hole: Rio de San war passin ger liner that had bi on the side living iro Muru, a | ba troop transport One hole harbored 26 fish. They hovered several feet above the hole until wdiver or large fish came near. Then, as if being poured funnel, all disappeared into the nar. ening. We sat quietly and watched and within a few m heads reappeared, then a “morming glory" of fish blossomed from the ship's hull Intrigued about the identity: of these fish and curious to know more about their habits close at b int-of quin aldine ize three specimens and eventually returned them alive to. ichthy- slogival colleagues at the Steinhart Aquarium in San Francisco's Gelden Gate Park. They were identified ax ‘trix heteropterus, 3 fish that is rare 4, dead or alive «i one that has never before been displayed in a public aquarium New Food Chain Starts With Plants Plants, pioneers on sunlit urfuces ne pleally, are ly introduced into the sea, wheth: ttles, or boots, Most of Ww rapidly, providing food mals, which in turn slants derfi: were cu Hundired h, and ce spes 1 alate dent spicuousl turn, these fish were ot larger re such predat s, jacks, snappers. and barracudas. Abos top-of-the:food-chi these were in predators © TOW —siant National eographic, May 1976ee but y Teef shark: us whitetip he small predators were the red-speck! eemerl to: gat masts of Fujikawa Maru and a sut hter, Sankisan Mane. Once T vigorous. hawkfish activity , | saw that the eg tt damselfish. and thut levouring the idl on a truck tire lownfish fared consid erably better. 1 first noticed the eggs on the form of a glossy black disk beneath © giant n which the at the egg patch, and was startled to see that had changed from bla tening silver nT low losely, 1 ilver-rimme were-empt Cabins and Corridors Pose New Dai Moving. from h Aland 1 be ree to record cave-ciwell h ken up residence i r nen, Such divir for clouds of fine silt rise wit movement, quic educing visibility to a ew inches. Even with the help of ap nes conf ight one’s orientation be ttle t Or 1 dives we explored the nok Maru, an oil Se ymenal numbers ¢ thriving on her decks In addition to Al's normal photograph ar we connected te ace and I ente re un stood b: able passiigewi: found that the ceiling had ce wires, pipes, and other fix- lack oil hes above my head glistened and moved bubbles mixed our air papery Perilous beauty of a lionfish gleams in Dy I t thelow). Moments Inter the reature jabbed a venom-tipped pur, “burning pine into her finger. For a Mysterious anim: column of a seldom-studied anemone rest upside down ui a lide: Dr, arte foeen as we ar hip, we red two kinds of fue « to the surface One type, apparently oil from the ship 3 rail tile aviation fue red in sprend with a shim ind gold, then contracted a afew area. There we found the ship's and a nificent brass ¢, both remarkably fre encrustation. L became ¢ diseppe 1p, he wa cht have emerginy come from personal art collection elain and mounts tT hel hite yx f pine bou f. For ining of what it ws raised in Jit in my and enjoying the combined and wher: Lit to Al, wh it was Outside, on flat surface of the ship's null, we located the vent from which gol globules of fuel were escaping (right), I mov the edge of the ten-inch pipe and peered in, just as a doren spheres of oil bubbled forth, joating upward till they disappeared from Immediately surr vent and fining its sunlit uy profuse angle of algae, cor se, apparent naffected by the emerging oil Ships’ Future Still Uncertain he decon T conte Teluny beneath our divi 1 of fu Al and I disc ship San Fran Her « The picric he unexploded mines all concurred f left untouched. locked in will seep: in The destruction oF modification of even one of the ships in Truk’s underwater arch ipelago would meat lost opportunities £ scientists, historians, and thi ny who in future year benefit from that monument to the destruction, of war What will become of the porcelain vase the telescope, the peaceful undersea tombs the living corals and plants? What of the ships themselves and the promising res now just t in? How can all this best be protected? To the answer is cle Nature is achiev ing the goals men seek. May we have the patience not to interfere oOTRUK LAGOON From Graveyard to Garden nipped fran cau de to it te cover gain, The next day they Born of a holocaust, life now burgeons on the skeletons of war-torn ships.ALLERY crantRoad Se ea of spicules that give form to the ‘animal. It feeds by pumping Bm ery Cee ea] ed ee ee ee edPShould they build a fence around MONTANA? By MIKE W. EDWARDS Photographs by NICHOLAS peVORE IIT HEY HAD a favorite song, a rollicking Irish tirinkingsongcalled “Garry ant! I like to think they sang it an that June Sunday in 1876 as they rede to- ward the Little Bighorn, ‘Let Bacchus’ sons be not dismayed, Bul jotn with me each jovial blade, Come booze and sing, wd lend your vid T know, though, that Lt Col. George A. Custer and the Seventh Cavalry had little time for singing when they attacked the largest gathering of Indians—Sioux and Cheyenne— ever seen on the Great Plains, “In about the time it takes a white man to eat his dinner," as an Indian story has it, Custer and 225 troopers were wiped out. ‘To my mind few vistas are as magnificent as eastern Montana's empty sprawl. But T find no beauty on the grassy ridge, grooved by coulees, frosted by sage. where Custer be- came a legend. Under a lead sky the battle: ground is austere, melancholy (pages 616-1 “You wonder why it had to happen," Hector Knowshisgun, Jr, whose Cheyenne forebears were in this hight. “When I think about the battle, what comes to mind is that all those people, on both sides, had loved ones” His side won the battle but, Hector arlded, “we lost the war.” It did not seem so at first. The Indians danced while news of Custer’s disaster inched back to the telegraph station at Bismarck, in Dakota Territory, to burst upon ® nation just celebrating its Centennial. But in five or six yenrs most Plains Indians were on reser- vations and white men were building cabins in the vicinity of the Little Bighorn. Not far from Custer Battlefield National ‘Monument, I sat.with John and Ethel Whit- ham, a silver-haired couple, both sweat stainet| from a long day of putting up hay. “We've been here fifty years,” Ethel said of their small ranch. “Selling out would be like cutting my heart out, This is the only real home T ever had, the only real home John ever had. T don’t want to live in town. T couldn't take my dogs, I couldn't tke my cat, 1 couldn't take my horse or cattle. Idan’t know of anything T want that we don't have bere.” Coal Men Bid for Ranehland ‘Until about ten years ago few people thought much about eastern Montana's conl —the largest deposits of recoverable coal in the entire country, In 1972.2 coal company over 4 thick seam. The Whithams declined Two years later, with « coal boomin full cry, attracting the largest companies in the enerzy industry, another company man handed the Whithams a draft for $144,000. John showed itto me. He had written on it von. “I didn't ‘want to tempt myself,” be said. But the Whithams arte compelled to con- sider the alternatives. Their lonely slice of Montana, a fragment of the West where the All smiles, a Japanese tourist. carries a newly purchased saddie down Central Aventie in Great Falls. Lured by biz sk) bbig land, and big minerals, people came from just about everywhere to see Montana—and just about everybody wants apiece of it. 614F N.W.R. — National Wildlife Refuge Mational Farests in bright green Bievations in meters upper Figure, tie upper Fig ‘oLokertens pickup truck ‘barely surpasses the horse as man’s best friend, faces the prospect of enor- mous change: mines, traffic, generating plants, coal-gas plants. Some of their neigh- bors already have leased. Block-busted, the Whithams may already have lost their war. Montana always has been a shipper-out of things from the land. Coal mines now open at ‘Decker and Sarpy and Colstrip are miniatures of the awesome Anaconda Company: pit at Butte, where the copper kings warred for a bonanza that thus far has amounted to per- haps 20 billion dollars. “The richest hill an earth,” Butte had its parallel in Last Chance Gulch, which allowed Helena in the 1390's to boast of more millionaires in proportion to its population than any city in America. Virginia City, Nevada City, Bannack—the bonanza. place-names reach back to the time of the 618 Civil War. Even earlier, trappers were taking Montana’s furs to make hats and coats. Anything was free in Montana in those. days, if you could only get it. In one. cynic’s view, the chicf differences now are that col- lars are bullets and the faces displaced from the land are white. Montanans Fight for Their State ‘But there are other differences, “Montana does not intend to become a boiler room for the nation," Lieutenant Governor Bill Chris- tiansen has said: Environmental concern has resulted in laws protecting the air and water, restricting second-home subdivisions; requir- ing restoration of stripped. land. Developers, forest clear-cutters, and extractors have found themselves in a thicket of protests and lawsuits—this in a-state long dominated by a National Geographic, May 1976WYOMING al value Coal fel of co Bituminoas ui subbstuminous single employer, Anaconda, and a state t with a low per turn its back Some Montanans are worried not only by big land disturbers, but by the rest of us mers, Californians. people loo! ing for a place to light. As Governor Thomas L. Judge noted, some citizens would like to build # fence around their state. Driving capita incor jobs cannot ensil well:, Eas! along Interstate 94, 1 pussed under a bridge had painted: “Do someth where some about the population explosion—commit suicide.” With paint enough, 1 suppose, he would have added: “But not here: What is Montana trying to hide? Enor- mous beauty, yes. But the real treastire of the Treasure State is space. Consider the figures. Qur fourth largest state—twice as big.as M souti, for (c ntinenecel om page 623) Should They Build a'Fence Around Moi MONTANA IKE A CRESTING WAVE, the Wide-apen Ld spaces of eastern and central ‘Montana rise to the battlements of the Rocky Mountains. “Seens of visionary inchantment™ impressed Meriwether explored the region in 1805 with William Clark. But most of the anit pioneers who followed wi more earthly read hin the century found, swanrds: land enough to support vast herds of cattle, stands of wheat, And wnder the ground lay gold, silver, and copper, riches that earned name: Tresisure State Jooking for alternatives 16.0, Montana's bhom mineral is now coal—a mixed blessing. Producers and. 3 differ on whether to tie it, how to mine it, and the toll the land in mining’s wake In a work property ow BORA 147,158 sc rlles, ranks fourth POPULATION: 748,000—anly slightly mo than live In Washington, TC £0ONOMYS Mostly agriew ural, with 63,500,000 acres of 1 to Teams Wheat major urth. Aber livestock, oil and copper, tourism, lead ilver, smelting. More eninable coal ale. MAJOR CITES: Hsllings, at Falls, 6 len, capital $000, CLIMATE: Vatright), which he fo revegetate the The payoff can be huge—hundreds opunts but 748,00¢ not out to stop developme The rest. roam Governor Thomas 1. Judge told the author 1, every family of make sure it's done five would possess two early one m rare miles House oi tly facing page), On the M. Russell mural behind him, Flat un hotel there (room rent watch the sun climb ove Each blade of winter-worn gr blink on, as if lit by-a tiny filw asa city someone W are this small pyrotechnics. I saw no persoh, no ranch, nothing thar ted habitation trolled Mountains Reach for Heaven lonesome land, too big, too empty.” A.B. Guthrie, Jr, called these plai The Big Sky, his fine nov trade. “It ma 1 the under such a reach ar of heaven." Tc Yes indeed t be about the fur 1 the heart yas 1 T could c una W di the plains from Idaho: it < and Beaver 1 Madison aman in awe of heaven. jes that the Absarok heads, th These, too, In mid. > n the high « I into the Mission Mount i he Flat ional my r, Meridith i rinend Hilary Canty. Our way was illu- 1 by bear: flowers, which in sh like electric-light bulbs—nature for ¢ cial, We eal eke ddenly enin z, “Quic quick, quick!" Th sung black bear only th He was lookii Hastily we tied piration almost as pervasive of Brow ed us the next about while we were food, he vanished w found it later, wrinkled but not torn. It was {a little joke Should They Build a Fence Around MontanHay’s out for the Herefords, sarents in St. Louis to kt was a poor rider and about n 1880, A lac never washed. fle 5 liked. hi f bucking bron Of Russell! ings,and sculpture Montana. One is at ne @ Monta swoimportant collection: rema iquar ters Museum in Great f log buildin Until a bar it ( in Montana.> minus 48° F. “Se cold it brought te It is not, I think, the that makes hin 1 you will see purple turned west on Hi d at Kremlin, a town whose n 5 are orning Kies. But his peop 5, cow be play with leaving a deep, West that dre: free work with lariat ished, rain and ch Export Surge Spurred Wheat to $6 m mers are good in the “Tri cornered by Great Fall Bank (map, pages 618-19}— lom of wearing: dirty shir Much of the raw cour he knew is new d in endless fields of wheat. It was rain. drove vast from Great Falls u as they have been bad for ranc Knerr. Thi Should They Build a Fence Around Montene’ 627usually yields about 40 percent of Montana's wheat—with plenty of rain, it produced 62 million bushels last year—and foreign sales have boosted prices to levels undreamed of by the homesteatlers of the early 1900's, “Six dollars a bushel in January. 1974." Larry Johnson, who was spending the rainy day welding a seed-drill rig, spoke the figure as if he didn’t believe it. The market soon re- treated, but prices are still so good that at age 24 Larry is a-kind of superfarmer, a sun- bronzed capitalist in. overalls talking of $40,000 combines and buying more land. “We don’t need $6 wheat,” he confessed. “If you have $3.50 wheat, you can make a profit. “For years, many wheat farmers hardly made enough money: to pay incame taxes,” Larry said. “Now people around here love to pay taxes. If you didn't pay $10,000 last year, you don't talk about it because you're ashamed of yourself." Homesteaders Opened the Wheatlinds ‘That afternoon the wind rolled back the cloud laver like a curtain. I camped below a small dam on the Milk River and spent the evening Watching five terns dropping: like dive bombers to grab fish in the spillway. With my bag on the ground I went to sleep looking at stars as numerous as T have ever seen: Guthrie's Montana Big Sky. At 4 a.m. 1 was awakened by the northern lights stabbing the spangled velvet like searchlight beams, When T drove back to the Johnson farm, combines were moving across a field, I squeezed into the cab of one with Larry's brother, Rodney, a chunky man with a fine full beard, and we rumbled along in air-con- ditioned comfort while the blades: whirred. “This is our poorest field,” Rodney said, “but 1 figure we'll get 45 bushels an acre here.” ‘That recalled a handbill T had seen in a museum. Issued soon after the turn of the century by the Montsna Land and Immigra- tion Company, it offered assistance: “Let us locate you on a free homestead.” On one mar- win was printed in red: “Wheat woes 40 bush- els to the acre every year here” A realist commented: “They should have added, “If it rains.’ " A few experts warned that a 160-ncre homestead, or even the 320 acres offered by the Enlarged Homestead Act of 1909, would hot support a family on the northern plains, 628. which are sprinkled with only 12 to 15 inches of moisture a year—andoiten less. The voices of caution went unheeded, Prominent among the boomers was rail- reader James J. Hill, His Great Northern needed customers along its lonely tracks, Hill had allies; Montana businesses, even state officials, Europe as well as America was papered with promises of Eden. ‘Land! “It was something you could have," said 79-year-old Laurel Wright, a neighbor of the Johnsons, who still raises wheat on the tract his mother homestcaded in 1911. Sepa- rated from her husband, she came to Mon- tuna to start a new life. In 1909 the land office at Miles City was re- cording 1,200 claims a month. A day in 1910 saw 250 people reach Havre. Cowboys had no kind words for this swarm that plowed the grass and put up fences. “Honyockers,” the homesteaders. were called, and “scissor- bills"—the first a corruption of “Hunky” and “Polack,” the second meaning a stupid person. “We had plenty of rain in 1915 and 1916," Laurel Wright recalled, “andl good crops. You could even borrow money on yout land.” But the 1917 rainfall was scanty. There was even Jess rain in 1918. In bone-dry 1919, the land. yielded only dust. “Most of the people around here just folded up-and left,” Laurel said, Still another cycle of drought occurred in the 1930's, and Laurel knew: another year when the land yielded no crop. Lasked him why he had stayed on. He shrugged. “Tough of devil, 1 guess.” Exodus Leaves Relics of Fuilure Montana historian K. Ross ‘Toole has es- timated that 70,000, 19 80,000 people home- steaded in Montana between 1909 and 1918. By 1922, 60,000 of these had been starved out or had given up, a human tide that ebbedl almost as it crested, leaving upon the land, in broken buildings and rusted fences, a poignant record of hope and failure Tn central Montana T met Stan Wiggins, whose father came from Nebraska seeking land. Six feet four, with shoulders as broad as. the country itself, Stan raises sheep on a 10,000-acre ranch that contains ten or more abandoned homesteads. 1 flew one morning over the rolling land around the Wiggins ranch—over the dead town of Flatwillow, (Continued on page 633) National Geographic, May 1976pelt, which they can séll to a fun about $25, but here they carry a wing struts, a practice when darkness or bad weather th T for (Continued from page 628) over tracks in the grass striking off to the remains of houses Stan was scouting for coyotes. “I admire the coyote as a clever animal,” he said. “But what he's done to me...” Stan tells of springs when he found as many as 40 lambs killed by coyotes, a heavy loss for a family ranch. He fights back. jon after daybreak a Piper Super Cub had. landed behind the Wiggins house. I was introduced to its pilot, Mike Goffena, another rancher. “Mike and his brother Robert and I have accounted for about 300 coyotes the two years,” Stan said. He opened the door of a shed that hangared his own Piper, then oiled-a 12-gange automatic Soon we were adawn patrol, skimming the ground. Stan's wife, Shirley, rode shotgun I went with Mike as a noncombatant. Ante- lloped up coulees and deer peered up from thickets. Suddenly Mike banked sharp- ly. "Two.down there” Though the planes cir- eled and circled, the coyotes were not to be seen again. We went home to breakfast. Many ranchers ‘cite coyote losses as the reason they no longer raise sheep, Stan told me that coyotes had been fairly well con- trolled around his ranch by the poison known as "1080," But since a federal ban on its use in 1972, he said, “the population his ran wild.” Wildlife authorities also report an increase in coyotes in Montana. Acrial bunting helps jo: protect the 15,000 or so sheep raised in Stan's area. lopes Conservation Comes in Many Forms Such a hunt y nuld have appalled the coyote's many cons friends, who contend that the animal is overrated as a sheep killer But I think of Stan as a con- servationist too, in his awn way, He talked of rvationis grass—bluejoint, blue grama, needle and srasées that ranch F cattle and sheep. thread, crested wheat, the ers call “strong. A He showed me reseeded pastures, new dike to husband the runoff. Perhaps “econom conservationist” is the right word for him: his view of coyotes is a sheepman's view, heard any day on the plains Unseemly August snow mantled the To acco Root Mountains in southwestern Mon- tana when I drove into Virginia City, Much of this gold-rush town, Montana's tetritorial capital for ten years, has heen preserved bylace fit for a king— Montana copy William A. Clar ctricity began to flow ox cc nner Ann Sinith now apen Charles Bovey and his wif own pockets Mr. Bovey,” said a man who works for him, “never threw anyth yas new." Mr; ‘Bovey:s him at that he coni e-Century eracery 1 with Sapolio soap, Unceda biscuit nd bags of Bull Durham tabucco—a of Mr Bovey’s trophies from a lifetime of testified not ont; for lactie the hill a mile, at . The Bove dit with a carriage ery. Th vada City pred that town an nating paraphernalia and a Chinese open to to Labor Day repair 40-odd @ public from h for T y—and Then Some s in 1863 r recorded in his diary that when you can get enoux gold for tobaeco: 10,000 people in the rich, Estimates In astore I pee am from which five outlaws swun The vigilantes Charles Bi neluding a wealth into wit! late 1 How m Charles Bovey i onsible for nquired as Mr ile flix ed: “I'm not re think T am_In the tw the modest as pe May 1976I drove to work in Great Falls in an old Anderson moter buggy made about. 1910, If nobody had stared at that old car, I wouldn't have driven it out the second day. The plea- sure T get out of old things is having other people enjoy seeing them.” Some of Charles: Boyey's music-making machines wete collected from saloons in Butte. “Oh, Lord, this was & good town!” ex- claimed a retired Butte miner, a massive, bull- necked man, in the Helsinki Bar, Grill, and Sauna. “Girls, slot machines. ... There were about six bars here along East Broadway. If you fell out of one, you fell right into another.” The wide-openness of the gold-rush era survived in Butte long after it died elsewhere. But copper, not gold or silver, paid for it. Ex- traction af copper ores coincided with the spread of the electric light and the telephone; mile-high Butte Hill, catering to a wire- hungry world, soon became one of the richest, mining districts on earth Job-hungry men poured in from Europe During World War I, Butte was by far Mon- fana’s largest city, with 90,000 people. East Broadway was the main stem of Finntown, one of hulf a dozen ethnic neighborhoods. “Lots of days Inever heard awordof English,” remembers Michael Patrick MeNelis, a re- tired smelter employee, “Most Finns were miners. The mill at the smelter, where the ore comes in, that was pretty near slic Nor- wegian. Down at the conyerter, it would be Yugoslavs, Italians, or Irishmen." Butte’s population has shrunk to 23,000 The Anaconda Company's Berkeley more than a mile wide and 1,500 feet deep, began to swallow the old neighbor: hoods in the 1950's. Where did the people go? Tasked the old miner in the Helsinki Bar. “Lots moved to the flats, off the hill, Some!s in the graveyard too.” “There's very few left who sayvy Finn,” the bartender added. Still, the Helsinki main- tains a brave front with a sign that says: “We Understand Broken English Here.” ‘Third Time Around for Mining, Mine gallows frames climb the sky atop Butte Hill, but most Butte “miners” are team- sters who drive 130-ton ore trucks in and out of the pit “This area has been mined ‘three tintes,” Superintendent LeRoy Wilkes told me. “The first miners *high-graded,’ just Should They Build a Fence Around Montana? took the best ore. Then it was re-mined for the best of what was left. Now we come along with the open-pit method and take what's left of that, But the grade is low, about half of one percent copper, and we take off 2 tons of overburden to get to a ton of ore Marcus Daly, who came to America from Treland alone at 15, correctly gauged the fu- ture in 1880 when he bought the Anaconda mine. It was a silver mine, but at places its veins held ore assaying 55 percent. copper. Backed by California financiers, the Ana: conda Mining Company bought other claims About 25 miles from Butte, Daly built the city of Anaconda ond a smelter, He added coal mines, timberlands. Others also cashed in. William Andrews Clark amassed a fortune of 47 million dollars Montana was not big enough for Daly and Clark, who warred with dollars and printing presses for control of the state. Clark hoped to become U.S. Senator, Daly blocked his ambitions. Clark spent $450,000 to keep the state capitol from being built in Daly's Ana- conda. Only after Daly's death did Clark become a Senator, serving from 1901 to 1907, ‘Statute Favors Mischief Underground Butte was a perfect money factory in the 1890's, Smelters and ore-roasting ovens belehed fumes of sulfur and arsenic, while begrimed immigrants extended hundreds of of tutinels into ore veins. To build an empire, aman needed ore, and F. Augustus ‘Heinze, still im his twenties, knew where to get it: in the veins of his competitors, to which he assiduously tunneled. Taken to court, he relied upon two remark- ably friendly judges and a statute, still in force, known as the “apex law,” If a-vein sur- faces, or apexes, on a given claim, this law holds, the claim owner is entitled to pursue the vein to any depth, provided he doesn't go beyond the length of his surface rights, But the law puts ne limits on following the vein to either side. Since Butte veins often splintered or Were interrupted, only to continue else- where, the possibilities for mischief were enormous. Heinze used the apex law not only to defend himself but also to press claims against rivals—“courthouse mining.” Tn 1899 Anaconda came under the control of the Standard Oil Company as that power- ful trust attempted (Continued om page 640) 635ty’ half the United Stat h high-grade veins ut,the pit was begun in L985 t halted cxpansion toward the t race ore. ‘That meant 1 c-the-elock mining P en; the work toad earth int + following pages)ay am tid (Ta *" eR iSSky—on the slopes, on the dance fldot—she talked of Chet’s dream in Huntley Lodge, near the base of the ski runs that pattern 11,166-foot Lane Mountain. “He felt the pres- sures were relieved out here. He felt very strongly about Montana’s curative powers.” Why not, he thought, build a place where others could restore themselves? What came about, after six corporations invested, was « virtually self-contained leisure community. ‘You can pay $3 for a dormitory bed during ski season or plunk down $11,500 to $40,000, for a home site. There are tennis courts, pools, a golf course, condominiums, convention facilities, a dude ranch. Buildings are clus- tered so that large parts of the 10,800-acre tract remain in a natural state. Environmentalists fear Big Sky's impact on Gallatin Canyon, One critic concedes: “They've done about as careful a job as they couild. They have to, because they know we're watching them.” But many believe that the greatest threat to the canyon is the absence of zoning con- trols. A mobile-home park sprang up near Big Sky. Environmentalists have challenged plans for two other new communities along the river. Residents speak of the need for con- trols, but a rancher described the local atti- tude as “Zone everybody but me.” ‘Opposition to zoning is us characteristic of rural Montana asa rifie on a rack in a pickup. 1 visited a charming little eray-haired lady, the owner of 252 acres. How did she feel about zoning? She smiled sweetly as she said, “Nobody should have the right to tell me what I can do with my property.” Real estate broker Fred Pack believes at- titudes change: “People see what can happen, trailer courts unscreened from traffic, and so on. I hope they won't allow much of that” Digging Up Coal and Trouble Coal country. Sixty-four, sixty-five, sixty- six... the rail cars rolled through the cross- ing, each hauling a bit of Montana to Illinois or Minnesota to light homes and power factories. When the caboose passed, men and women in hard hats hurried on to work, the morning rush was under way in Colstrip. Once a railroad coal-mine site, Colstrip withered after diesels came in. At the time of my visit, 1,800 people worked there, most of them building two coal-fired generating plants that will supply electricity to the Seattle area as well as to Montana. The 507-foot stacks of these will be joined by two more if Montana Power and other companies win final approval from state authorities —and if anticipated lawsuits by environmentalists do not thwart the plans. The new plants would boost Colstrip’s power output te 2,100,000 kilowatts, equal to about G0 percent of the peak use in Los Angeles last year. Comradeship and $9.32 an Hour ‘Thore’s a yeasty quality about the Colstrip boom, confected of dust and mud and make- do, and of the camaraderie of men who've come from all over to build on the plains “The pay's all right—$9.32 an hour,” said an electrician from North Carolina, He lived with 180 other single men in a barracks of sheet metal that adjoins a trailer court known as “Hobo Village." “I like to travel,” he said, ough it broke up my marriage.” 1 spent an evening in the B&R Bar, one of two throbbing night spats. A welder who was playing poker explained that he had come to Colstrip from Wisconsin out of neces “Jobs were slow at home.” The next day Project Manager Martin White unrolled a plan of the Colstrip of the future, a town with bike paths and elaborate landscaping. “We've got to make it good to attract quality people and keep them happy,” Martin said. “We've got a dragline out at the mine that takes 60 cubie yards a bite. It swings every 60 seconds. If the man who operates it is unhappy about his home and slows down a little...say, he swings the shovel every 66 seconds, we've lost 10 per- cent of our earth-maying potential.” Energy companies were snapping up coal New tmils across a timeless land, ski runs of Big Sky resort carve Lone Mountain near Bozeman, Caneéived by the lite newscaster and native-son Chet Huntley, the 10,800-acre development offers hotel und hostel accommodations, a convention center and shopping mall, condomisiuins and homesites. Some Montanans view any develop ment with sadness. In the words of Bozeman poet Jason Bolles: “Where the bear lurches; where the brown deer stamps, Mankind has hung the wilderness with lamps.”leases in Montana andl other Western States well before the oil crisis of 1973, “A Jot of oil companies were looking for ways to diver- sify in the sixties,” said a man who has fol- Mi the Same time utili- coming disenchanted with nuclear rey.” Coal producers were attracted by the wast blocks that could be leased. And the coal was easy to get at; Strip away $0 feet or lowed deve ties were be ppments so of overburden and you were looking at a black seam 10 to 50 feet thick. The U.S. Clean Air Act of 1970 spurred intense in, terest; Western coal is generally low in fur—though also low in heat output ul Scores of companies and speculators have new tied up more than a million acres or surface over coal Thirteen companies nwhile ebtained from the U.S. Bureau of Reclamation options on half the water behind Yellowtail Dam, not far from coal deposits The water almost certainty would be used for steam power plants or for p mi lants using coal to make natural gas or liquid fuel Boom Exceeds Official § Many ranchers did not realize sions the boom until in th in the opinion of Dr. Raymond Gold, a Univer sity of Montana sociologist who his spent much time in the coal area. “Information was withheld that was necessary for them to understand what was likely to happen. I guess industries always play their care to their vests, Government agencies didn the people know a lot, ¢ cause they didn’t k let er—maybe be- Ww themselves estimate, 64 million tons of Mo | will be mined in 1980, about three 8 much as last year. Looking further ad, no one really knows how much coal nation will ne tained elsewhere, or whether other enc ices can be developed. One Washington official suggested to me that if gasificatie plants are built, all Montana's easily re coverable coal might be mined in 30 to 40 years, Like many claims and calculations in thistroubled region, the suggestion is disputed, Also at issue, in spite of stiff laws and muct earch, is the question of whether-str whether it can be ob: mined land can be restored to its previous productivity, Early results seem encouraging, cher noted, but it will be years before is a definitive answer.‘Many ranchers are fighting ai a dis advantage; they do not own the coal beneath their land. Montana's major eoa!-lord—with 222 billion tons—is the Federal Government through the Bureau of Land Management (Bim). Under the homestead act of 1916, the government retained rights to coal deposits. Another major owner, the Burlington North- erm Railroad, heir to vast tracts granted by Congress to a predecessor, the Northern Pacific, also usually retained mineral rights when it sold land. Whether a coal firm may mine through someone else’s surface is an issue that has concerned lawmakers—and may concern the courts. To avoid problems, companies try wo buy or lease the surface. To same ranchers, the lease option payments—$3 an acre and up—tooked like easy money, Dr. Gold. said, and many thought that mining would never take place. Refrigerators or Wide-open Vistas? A few miles from Colstrip I went to see Wallace MeRat, an outspoken opponent of coal development through the Northern Plains Resource Council, a group of ranchers and farmers, “Friends and neighbors, that's what made this country great," Wally said, “You can't imagine the tremendous pressure the companies bring when they try to break the community, try to get samebody to lease. ‘You think, what the hell, [can run my outfit, I don’t care what the neighbors de. But it isn't that way." He no longer feels welcome in Colstrip, where he went to high school BLM officials came to see him and dis- cussed the possible mining of coal beneath his ranch, Wally told me. “They said it was accessible—there’s a railroad near. 1 told them, ‘You know, I don't think you've proper: ly assessed accessibility. This is probably the most inaccessible coal area on earth.'" Leasing of federal coal, suspended while iM prepared planning documents and en: vironmental analyses, is expected to resume in 1977 of 1978, “That federal coal belongs to all U.S. citizens,” a BLM official in Washing- ton reminded me. “And the fact is, the coun- try needs it, Are people in Chicago going to shut down their refrigerators so people in Montana can have uninterrupted vistas? What is that going to cost the nation? We'll do the best we can to minimize the impacts, 646 but the trade-offs have still got to be made.” From Colstrip I drove south to Lame Deer on the Northern Cheyenne Indian Reserya- tion, The wind filled the air with orange dust, and Thad the sensation of being in another country. Wrinkled faces with shawls pulled about them appeared in the swirls, only to vanish, 1 glimpsed small houses, a few made of logs, a few stores The 2,900 Northern ‘Cheyennes are poor. But they are sitting upon a fortune in coal, perhaps five billion tons of it. Between 1966 and 1971 the tribe signed ‘agreements with six. companies, possibly committing a quarter of a million acres to smining—half the reservation. Allen Rowland, chairman of the Tribal Council, and Jim -Canan, supervisor of the Billings office of the Bureau of Indian, Affairs (ata), the Indians’ trustee, differ in their accounts af why such a large slice of the reservation was let out. At any rate, many Cheyennes subsequently had second thoughts when two companies began to talk of gasification plants, and some won- dered if the royalty they were promised— 174, cents a ton—was fair. The tribe peti- tioned the Secretary of the Interior to void the agreements, alleging Violations by the BIA, ‘The leases are now in abeyance, and the tribe is deciding what it wants to do. Mining Will Be on Cheyennes’ Terms Heetor Knowshisgun, Jr, feels that the ‘Tribal Council needs more information. “People don't want to lose the reservation. It’s their home," he said. “Their ancestors are buried all over the reservation. We've got to know how much of our heritage is going to go down the drain, what would happen with a large influx of non-Indians” The tribe has hired experts to help provide the answers. ‘T think the coal will be mined,” council chairman Rowland told me. He added em- phatically: “But on our terms, nobody else's.” South of the Cheyenne reservation is an area where BLM has proposed the mining of 285,000 acres, I asked ranchers there how they felt. One wife told me her husband had given an option to a company, but she hoped mining would never begin. One rancher was holding out for a better price. A widow had refused even to allow prospectors to drill om her land. Still another rancher felt that the mining of a small area might not be bad, ‘but that railroads, power lines, gasification National Geographic, May 1976new people would edito what he hopes will be the site of the next strip mine in Mont y the i coal fan fram a mine, he said How could he Can Bi hers Live B side Mines? Burton Brewster the taxe He intends to stay while mi And Ti children will stay. Coal mone ce for them than I've a better p “A wheel and a bar and a Protibition, an maker sa week bert Nance point Hare and a bla a that passe: cowt I di has str ne. “Thi by ture,” she said. “There's afo be we shouldn We could tk ust the plain beaut By gosh, th t Ellen Emer need for coal. “Bui them to grab so mu k it’s There are mil of coal leased in the West. The re until the got to ask for up what they've I can't believe th perfectly willing She served m i everybody would: memiade by Montana plains to havea conversaticcd Me late to build # fence-arc ees of change are in: e Seventh Cavalry, with ith the fur e not talki We bout buildin; so eh ny Adv ane resource ignored it tis ad livestock. ant + whe Time Enough for Right Decisions on M 4 are national on the Indians that Mon. 1 camped bene brow of a bluff at the Red Rock Lake ional Wildlife Refuge. Across the lakes. torm broke he ppeared in a slit in the rainstorm and contin e magnificent and te ame, the ime in MGrowingUp M in Montana: © ESSAY HY NICHOLAS bEVORE IIIRIVING 5 repai out ‘arvie teher for rs (above). for br details the home The Here a L a by Montana stan on Dave ju fe apart but not nkWAVES OF‘0 BUS. fo take Matt N: vick to the sixth grade. ints ane of fes toa neely reopened mural school, shuts the gate behind him (left), and joins teacher Vickie Johnson and the nt body of fi (below). While Matt does his lessons, his faithful mount just wits, placid even right Frank Urick does not believe -ople educating their kids Off the farm as fast as they can." such a push-button ¢ kids don't learn any! ss it’s in school But I hu a situation where I can them quite a s here on this re He hopes his basic rule there is to be“ but ki bad wey to raise a family either,HESE ARE TROUBLED WATERS, the emerald-green seas off the Sulu Archipel- ago, the southernmost nds of the Philippines. Long the haunt of fierce pitates, they are also plied by smugglers who run guns from Borneo to Moslem rebels fighting the Philippine Government. It is not «. comfortable feeling to be on these waters at night, but my husband, Raghubir, and I have come to visit the fabled Sea Gyp- , the Bajaus of the Philippines, and these are the waters they fish We lie dozing on a 25-foot fipa (right), three hours out of Sitankai. The Bajau fisher- men have set their line, its foot-long hooks baited with stingray, ina deep channel nearby. Now, at our mooring in the shallows, we hear the distant sputter of an engine: Itom, our Bajau boatman, jumps to his fect and calls softly to his friends in another lipa; “Enang... Dikma,.. Tahmo—pamboat, With this, everyone awakens, including Mah- mud, a young policeman, our bodyguard. Hi crawls from his mat with a rifle and braces himself, his finger on the trigger ‘There is reason for fear. The pamboat, speedy motorized outrigurér, is the pirates’ favored craft. Everyone recognizes its omi- nous pitter-patter sound. We watch as its flickering light draws closer and closer— then passes only thirty yards away Itom trembles with fear. Enang cups a hand to his ear and listens to another, more distant sound: “Aampit!” A kumpit is a pas- senger and cargo launch, and is also used by smugglers among the islands Pirates after smugilers,” says Mahmud, breaking inte a grin. “There will be action tonight, but not for us.” At dawn we haut in the fishing lines and ght only a small sharks, yet we are content, If many great sharks have escaped our hooks, at least we have escaped the hooks of the pirates. Home is where the helm is for a Bajau woman (left), her face stylishly whitened with rice powder. As these boat dwellers have for centuries, a family sets out on a fishing voyage in the southern Philippines (right), Scattered over thotsatids of square miles, from the Sulu Sen to eastern Indonesia, soine of today's 35,000 Bajaus follow the namadie life of their ancestors, while others setile at the water's edge LIFE ASHORE BECKONS THE BAJAUS Gea Gypsies of the Philippines By ANNE pe HENNING SINGH Photographs by RAGHUBIR SINGH 659Primed for pirates, a policeman named Mahmud guards 1 her and their ge ng a fishing Aboard typical Bajau fish right), @ family dries its haul harks und stingrays, Often nd them, t and theit 1 Ameri while theit neighborsFATES eo Sulu Sea. APSA ‘Sangs Sanga Island, Tangkatang. age Group. Bongao Island—© P**S*® aiatan fiand ‘Simul: “SBunabunsan ‘sland Ian . >, p00 fibity ee Hes gua Aver Island Celebes Sea.Venice gone to Sitankai (below) nestle: like a tiny ‘tn Mindanao and Borneo (maps, le 060 residents, perhgp achbors. the bets OF the settlement's jaus. Like thei the Tausuys, the: stilts im the shally nated against Arct have now ken js aun tides ane Hife little encounters “Fawitaw! kets fh by reefs. Farther north islands, id their famil hold to. trac changed. since their‘When we are invited to a wedding in Sitan- kai, it is not a Bajau ceremony. The groor Arab headpiece from Mecca, and the bride wears a Western-style white gown ‘The majority of the Bajaus, we learn, have xiven up many of their customs, hoping to better their lives through integrating with their neighbors: But it is not an easy journey Often I hear Bajaus contemptuously referred to as fiewa'ar, or “spit-outs.” Old Ways Reflect Both Beauty and Poverty We want to press deeper into the archipela- go to find a moorage where the old wi tinue. Tungkalang, in the Tawitawi islands,” we are told. And so we board a kumpit for the eight-hour voyage north We debark at Bongan, a sleepy little town and next morning set out by launch for the 20-minute ride to Tungkalang. With us is Mrs, Ramona Elejorde, a Filipina who goes to the moorage each school day to teach ‘the children. ys con 0 th The moortage, situated between a reef and an island, holds both beauty and signs of pov erty. The scene is dominated by a lush green ited. stilt mountain the Bajaus regard as ench But the SO lipas and outriggers and 666 houses are fortified with plastic sheets, eard- board, and pieces of metal. Men and women go about their chores, poling small dugouts or wading knee-deep through the shallows. We step onto the narrow reef, which sup- ports only two wooden schoolhouses: Naked children surround us—few Bajaus wear clothes before age 10 or so. Their hair is bleached hy the sun and salt water. “Miliken, Miliken,” they shout, meaning “American.” To them, all Westerners are Milikan. There are two rooms and a kitchen int schoolhouse,” Mrs, Elejarde save “Vou are welcome to use them.” She out of a reservoir, heats itan a spirit stove for coffee, and tells us about Tungkalang. ‘Until 1961 there were only three huts at the moorage. Almost everyone lived on their boats, so they could get awayfast when trouble came. The school, founded by an Oblate priest, gave the Bujaus an added sense of security, They began to build more houses. But most use them for storage and live there only when the family lipa is overcrowded, ‘The school has 30 students, ranging in age to 16. “No Bajau knows his age,” Mrs Elejorde’says. “T can only: guess.” Many of the children, she said, bear names like Landing, Customs, and Ignorante. “The parents call them after familiar abjects and sights, One little girl is called Tapurcita, after a launch that passes here A loud din—from a frying pan beaten with a stick—ends our conversation. It is time for hool. The children line up and sing the Philippine anthem and their school song in Pilipino, the national language. Raghubir and I meet Helen, a young Ba- jau who will be our guide. She has learned English and studied in Manila. Homesick, she returned after two years. She tells us we are lucky, for there will be a wedding soon. “Maybe tomorrow pumps rainwater from 7 maybe As their lives change course, father and son sail & toy lipa off their houseboat moored in Sitankal (left), On another (right), supper simmers astern as a woman prepares fish and cassava. Both these Bajau families are in transition, still living in their vesse the fringe of the main community, 1 many’ Bajaus already have done, th move into housewow T have none." il chant On one of the lipw hild and sing and I find myself stand jon. Child release their ange ty harsh, but a child i at he sings. Then tenes-tenes. Ai i nil senweer flicker on in the darkness Activity resumes be nave in dugouts to visit their frie re an early meal i ® fi ing boat Later they paddle o man, like me fi the ichwork sai! child. We are so appear on the irth ritual hNational Geographic, May 19we overnight. In the a huge curved mouth, dropped open in a last burial is- gasp. Jawarani, a fishe to cut off its head. He at it with one of nearby Bi} iniabun: an T A man is buried with his betel box, and a companion, Anai-Anai, will fen carving is placed over his grave, Sometimes friend a stylized human fig- be rightly painted moter ure ul more Inch, cowen ¢ in the afte their efforts imes, Harpoon Thrust We learne even more mysteria island from American anthropalogist Dr. EL As children crowd mo, perhaps the only W rk's capture: “We left ty [from outsiders, the ago. The wind was stron esterner to of th rere. Guard ind-white flags. and w ht we would scar emarphic Ww We bounced on Neel tain-tahu. In id night, E orcised from a sick person by a flat. We started looking hung with green Here stat en figure: evil spirit this morning the sea was him. We dropped: y in the sea. Then uch dwe hamai The Bajaus believe these spirits to a hook ti be like land dwe They do not like us, we rattled in the water coconut shells tied to nd are pleased to make u 1 pole and we sang: ‘Come you £alitan, show Bajaus have accompanied shamans t us your fin that slices the water like a sharp island, but when [ask to go there, ne onewill blade. Come, we have been wa ‘You are tuke me beautiful, you must be ours.’ He came. Wher That afternooti, the breeze is light, the air he caught the hook, Jawarani hurled the aly back harpoon i He battled furiously ¢ fishermen glide si ato hi We wavle out to cheek their Finally he surre catch. Some fish arc eT inte the moc red, and. yellow, en's faces that the like rainbows. ‘There a man-to-man fight, and that pect the fallen 1 hazard faced by the appetizing tun Soon boisterous cries of ch attract Storr nition. At 1 six-foot shark bottom of one boat lies. fishermen aang Helen tole to once her brother and and drifted a hundred hs and we thought s white belly s ner were CAL were gone two mi ere dea raditional Bajau ¢c ey turn for help raking decisions, settling dispute ming those rved whose daughter, Isr is to be wed To his kin, Surani is exceptional. He wa: in the Philipr Force and is the on Masking their joy, bride ane = Isnaraissa. pe nc wedding ceremony ple f the di whelm Mi tivities, Memories over sit, the bride's mother (lefttiieman in the moorage who speaks Pilipino. He is also the only owner of a motor Taunch. Dilupidated though it may be, he lives.on it, When he returns from a short trip, bring- ing friends and relatives from distant moor- aes, everyone knows the wedding is at hand. And as Sarani is a man of tradition, everyone knows the wedding will be a splendid one ‘That night, in the glow of the moon, fam- ilies gather on the reef for the festive pre- wedding dance. Gongs are beaten with vigor A circle closes around women who dance aracefully in the Indonesian fashion, wearing long, curved fingernails made of tin. Banana Battle Part of Ritual ‘The gongs sound until morning. At 6:30 we step onto Sarani’s launch to wait for the groom, Ummalani, and his family to arrive from their moorage a few miles away. Soon lipas with fluttering banners appear in the distance, We meet in mid-channel Girls dance on the boats to the clang of gonies. Men bombard each other with bananas. ‘The bride-price is passed to Sarani: three large sacks of rice;worth 13 U. S. dollars each, one sack of sugar, and $160 in cash. This is considered a large sum—Isnaraissa has had no fewer than five suitors. As part of the bride-price the groom's uncle passes over the maligai, a miniature bamboo hut filled with pastries, symbol of the parents’ consent. It is topped with flags made of bank notes We escort the groam’s flotilla to the moarage amid a joyful cacophony. ‘The bride is taken to an open lipa for « ritual bath (pages 672-3), her face masked in mock sorrow; only after the festivities will she be allowed to express her happiness. Ashaman singles outa lock of her hair and blows on it three times, a charm to ensure well-being, and then pours seawater over her head. Isnaraissa winces as it trickles into her eyes. The wedding cosmetician uses a razor blade to trim her hair into bangs and shape her eyebrows into triangles. She traces a black rectangle on Isnaraissa’s forehead and covers the remainder of the girl's face with chalk. Younger girls watch with envy. About noon the bride is helped inte a bright blue sarong with bold circular patterns. Her white silk shirt is adorned with gold chains and. pins, some borrowed from relatives. A curtain is drawn to conceal her. Now the groom, similarly prepared, ap- proaches in a procession. He is carried on a friend's shoulders. They stop before the lipa. ‘The teacler of the procession calls out on the groom's behalf: “May Uimalani be granted ‘the honor to enter Sarani’s family?” Sarani, who hasa hard time remaining serious, makes him repeat the request twice more, Then he replics: “Yes, provided you promise to make my daughter happy, look after her children, and give them all a joyful life." He then bursts into laughter ‘The curtain parts. Sarani takes the groom's forefinger and guides it to his daughter's head, then ta her breast. And go they are married. Sarani jokes: “I've sold my first daughter—three more to go!” Fleeting Peace, Vanishing Life Isnaraissa. and her husband leave for his parents’ moorage to meet more friends and relatives. Bajaus take leave with little cere- mony. Within minutes of the newlyweds’ departure, Tungkalang has lapsed into its ‘usual languid pace Tonight the moon is a perfect sphere. Its radiance illuminates the water. Small boys perform aerobatics an stilts Save for the oc- casional distant drone of a smugeler’s kumpit, a primeval peace reigns over the enchanted moorage. But it was to be a flecting peace. After we left ‘Tungkalang, the fighting swept through the Tawitawi islands. The Bajaus, still eyp- abandoned their moorage. fat quite yet, but in time, these Bajaus will surely go the way of U Kinsmen at Sitankal, tracing their life.on the sen for = better future. I can only hope they find the safe harbor they seek ad Rising above the differences that have divided their peoples in the past, Bajau and Samal buys of Sitankai find that stilts can build a friendship as well as suppart their homes: As the Bajaus increasingly anchor their lives closer to shore, the older generation. builds a more stable future for the young. For that promise they are trading their no- madic freedom on the seas, hoping to shed the stigma af the outcast. Sea Gypsies of the Philippineshis The guides’ loudspeakers opened fire ‘ext la maison du célebse éerivain Robert Graves.” “Und hier, das Haus de Dichters Robert ¢ es.” Neck ae und, the caravai on. or move They make me feel like a national mont i.” said the 80-year-old Mr. Graves, pect a mimosa. Well over six 0 i paw: feet tall and still straight widely acclaimed juath tal (page 682). “But, with ertain, | suppose those poor fellawshave have something to talk about” An Idyllic Spot, But Where Ts It? year the four major Balearic Isla 4, Menorca, Ibiza, and Form ed more than th siders, most of them on low-cost pac tours. The phenome: eir frenetic remin sked a friend fon lass. w she had gone on v Ttaly. newer saw so much rain at ate sich funny food. What did you do? T went to Mallorca and had a great time.” ‘Mallorca? Where's that? “T don’t know. I flew Anchored between Barcelona and the archipelago (m is, f ers. paw the continuation. of Tbe- ns and a cultural land. Yet a distinet wn, Even ria's Andalusian mount extension of Catale the four major island: character all it differ—hasirally Catalan well salted with local words that in many case are of Arabic origin Expatriate Graves knows the Ba ¢ lived in the vill De arty vears, By 1924, when, he first 1 alread nic ¢ wel almost ved on Mallorca, his. life a rather loose-knit movement ole of rebel Graves ranks with painter Joan Mind of nearby Palma as"top of the sng gifted transplant the Balearics, where utsiders of every type and stripe live ually or full time: They c g (Continued on } 68 w trick Kicks Sand at to the ai 0 Mall each year, lured by weather and esistibly low-priced. pack m Landon, fe example, cin uni S165, inclu und two tne descend dur Palma’s The throngs bu 4 head far some of Mas ng buses (right), which umental traffic jams at every polnt of interest one 0! iin E reas 8X) sight-se National Geographic, May 1976| fiers = Mallorca aa forto Colom ny mipweras sp i— Fires Eeatone in meter. per figure. ad feet + Mipat Balearic Islands Creat bright way, Palma’s hotel-packed “Golden “Mile” fright} actually nine times that long, Blaze at upper right is the cathedral, begun in the 13th century when Palma thrived as a center of commerce and— as nov—the queen of the four major islands that Formentera jusstra Sefiora del Pilar constitute the Balearics. the indigenous population, which now ex ceeds half a million. After all, invaders are an old, old story here. For the island chain through more than 2,500 years was a coveted prize in controlling the western Mediterranean. Carthaginians, Romans, Vandals, Byzantines, anc Moors all eame and conquered before Jaime | of Ara- gon spearheaded Spanish annexation by sub- duing the Arabs in 1229. Today's prevailing sentiment is "gQué mas da2—What does it imntter? At least the new ones come to enjoy, ‘not rule.” ‘The Good Life Grows Costlier “Who they are, why they're here, anc where they settle follow no fixed pattern,” a knowledgeable Dane told. me as we dipped from the same punch baw! with a titled Brit- on, an American heiress, an impoverished Italian painter, and a German fugitive from the law. “I imagine good living at low prices lured most of them. When I moved here six years ago, you could manage comfortably on 684 $100 a. month, extravagantly on $300, Now it takes twice as much either way.” ‘The most offbeat branch of the foreign contingent forgathers on the island of Ibiza, where | made my first landfall, disembarking from the Barcelona boat with bundle-hearing Ibicencos and casually clad members of the beard-and-backpack set. Growing popularity has fringed the old port of Ibiea with multistoried housing, but ‘Dalt Vila, the upper town, appears in its quiet- er moods much the same as 16th-century artisans left it. Steep stone steps and narrow, cobbled streets twist upward through «clutch of venerable casas that nestle like chicks be- neath a huge brood hen of a fortress, But quiet yarely reigns; Free spirits from many nations turn its lower tiers into an Oriental bazaar by day, a miniature Montparnasse by night Carthaginians first settled this hill about 650 8.c. Until recently, the most notorious resident of the ridgetop was’an artist whose ability to imitate the masters’ styles ance earned millions. National Geographic, May 1976Masquerade Ends When Drug Deal FailsPlunderers Mahén was sacked by the p ke-bottom ral omThe port now invites Sunday su ountryside the spicy aroma of wild rose thyme, sage, and chamomile blended with the 1 scent of It is best to drink rumuni and frig a calé keeper in San Antonio Abad advised, ing me two amber aperitifs m ic. Alter nes avery minor n lls for these istand fa nia AV » foreiun t ce-sleepy fish rose wry and thy weral swallows the taste of food bece He has had few © vorites since San Anti shore, t catering raction in thi atter es, Great- est Spain's Sun-blent Pleasure Iste is its heltered by the pacious, well-beac bay lly par Isla Coneje waybacke Hannibal wa I climbed the ramparts of th 1 at Santa, ia del Rio, uthor Elliot P: where, some sa: ad reported so vivid, war drove him fr Most house shey mi the island in 1936. of Paul's day have been demol- Iries blockading the waterfront tched workmen Beside the old cemetery I w erect burial vaults tier on t follow Santa Eulali: rises now Not All Su umb ty Modern Riches EW EXCEpt expatriates and escapists from ning the tourist for it has brought full employment and an wed economy to all the Balearics an unexpected tid a pleas elsewhere sui “An fortun rabout itr young Spaniard nily condominiums near For- r practice to bequeath rmlands to the oldest son. Beaches and rocky like this were usele went toa ¢ other mir So guess who's living in Barcelona now and has money in the bank? Money is the least of my friend Guillermo’s worries: He runs his farm between San Mi guel and San J sutist barter. With the help of one mule to power wagon, plow, and olive press, his household most af its own food—and m “What we cannot use, we guel for sweets and salt, coffee and cloth,” he said. “There is always enough, and ng in his manner urcelona there is no ma son of Thizan soil would mis this annual fa festival that reduces countryman's prize pig to a year's sup rk products nT was tha was fa met; he T had missed vig killing, the matanz; opening ev He led me into a long, low room, where f all nges proce 3.30-pour sausage ofbe island begins to like adjacent Thiza rrer of Nuestra Sehora adition to transitic tied. Frequent di 1 lighten their m of bh remains well ted on Ibi sk Pilar still pi 1 founc 1, who friendly fishermen ai 1 about {riftwood-broile r cal And in th umbling casa at Balafi, 9 and di their me “Furmily” Matters Settled Unofficially atelaine of litter when shi da dus house. I eaught up in tim 1 disheveled young man away from her well she explained. When they 0 wash, t beneath weary Heepees, nlive trees, their come he mp in our s, were leaf: good water. And water is ve re fruit the ldn't she: call the police No, no, sefiora. 1 would never de amboyant on Forn They are of Bale- From Catalonia. We do nc nshine warms its civil t of my thu s far le smallest and ble aries, But when sum je family affair Suntight held captive by whitewashed walls t ples inp Thies Heft). Carthaginians, attracted by: natural. fl iblished year 2 a paraite mans, Vandal: All sought a strategic by na street in Devt (below Spain's Sun-blest Pleasure Islex oarArat fled I when their rule ran out 2 an be detected in the sug whitewashed plaster and theswar vith an uncanny knack f Charm Remains for Englishmen in contrast, wears a British look. Mahon, finest natur rch and Spanish interruption: for most af the British live nd ant re and “ole nt examples of G wo nd island-made gin—cheape tt water—autsells all othe their grea countryside, whi insand Hocks of hau ail, 100 shallow in places to constant encouragement. Rain seldom ummer, a oung tree to permanent. pampadou wid Wright, a British retire cxsional real estate un has se, furniture, costume jewelry to be more self-reliant than th s. The general feeling here iones designed to attrac rbaniz -hungry alread, bsorb acres tude. Fifty thousand Menorquins may n in any hurry to expand, but they intend hen their time comes. After all, they wei ng back as the Bron: vig andl build e. The ith: nkin ofr niscent of talayots; and navetas, which Etched gray by winter, Ih ble overturned boats. ill unfurl its glory in sp 9; Nai graphic, May 1976cies aeen dela and Alcudia on 5 te sail afte dir onecilin t ror Cattle be T ate three on H t r t port n . fellow ge eis hcioge mst tect Climate Attracted Famous Pair seally 7 ncedl Greate serenity at ne at my rented here, Nativ Jorge art ol dito America, distinguish- ( io, a ba nig ring the Revolution ! fescends in one step = ee David, w the town ibel Calvario's foundlin, e-Annapolis ditys, became — with striking o 1 sit admiral boring mountair vile elf when the little bost tof sharks’ f jed crags, and flDid it honoreoood to have a little heat on the inside With her lands far from self-supporting, Dofia Luisa must rent Miramar and maintain Son Marroig on admission fees As for selling off some of her holetings: “I love the natural, untamed beauty of this coast just as the arch- duke did es to be protected from man’s meddling Continuing clockwise along Mallorea’s Costa Bray, thé wists through Séller’s ing Puig Mayor, a as crinkled and creas it final Ange hoc rhinoc uneoils to Tasks B: Aside fre litte has altered Pollensa for at tury. Here day begins (and ends) to the sound of bells—fram the church tower and the col I grazing goats. Housewives dart like swallows throu nin lark streets on their way to carly market. Farm women are already at makeshift stalls in the plaza, juce picked at dawn; my basket quickly fills with n I really need. “Pick up another ensaimada at the bakery and come have eoffee,"-artist Dick Campi calls from the Bar Espaiiol; he don side, munching one of those delicious puff pastries thal Mallorquins mike to perfection Inside, the jet scream af a coffee machine digs away; now 1 can hear the black-suited old men, who must have bee ring and palo, a ) nUMETOUS asl a cen ars hw ne born w berets, domino nssipin bittersweet liqueur extracted from carob pods hey will regroup out around the plaza like ial’s face. Similar scenes As market crowds th side to follow the the shadow on a su are found throughout the huerta, Ma garden-striped north-central p tered windmills suggest Don Quixote. may have won a few jousts here lorca’s lain, whose tat the Romans Recognizing prime real est he island in the around Alew They began colotizir tury B.¢., settling fi Dawn hangs a veil over Palma, enveloping theeity’sskyscruper hotels in n haze thal the morning sun will burn away, leaving—in composer Chopin’s wotts—ait "as pure as that of Paradise.”founr city of the F has expand then push tal and p broad, inviting bay Little remains mo is not altogether beside El Borne, a promenac “Tt is now not eas; out industry go- heart of Palma’s old quarter ing.” said Gabriel Marques Melis, Jr., vice Despite his gloomy assessment, a president of Melis Marques & Cia, makers of andstone cathedral, commissioned = “Always hefore, 1,“El Conquistador,” in the 13th century, a sons followed fathers intothis business. Yo Almudaina Palace, a memento of the Moe inate a rise only afew blocks away spiderweb streets that lead from J Got! colossus live Des, coats, and accessors fay want more money and excite . Competition fror nw we have it at reople ts 1 ment in places like Paln abroad is bad enous! ome 104 ths who made medieval Palma the Countrymen sof ityward ih ‘We're replacing them nea help from the Spanish mainland,” Tt from Juan ¢ it the Mediterr easier life Urban Life Tempts the Young the civil gavernment. "Also we're d twormiles west, the Jaime 11, built he-round, fc On higt quistacor’s ne urban com- con farmer ev, a forts without leavin a country living Had tourism caused any other problems? by an ever Measured against benefits, 1 would say ith no. OF course, We are s besieged on all si metropolis already crowe ¢ must maintain a balance z now, but we can nal Geographpercent, British mat panic sherme ale fret; han catches in Mediterrane © beer W declining for years. José “Pepe” Fo up. fi humbsu ward ipnorthern coast, where horses and donkeys roam free purple-tinged nor the vocabu t Maine lobsterme ng bad luck 2 mountain. ll remark n attack. Light and shadow Spain's Siun-blest Pleasure Istes parqueted the valley floor below me; fror heigh ale much of Mallo the tideles: as that brov bat bad fortune to its Ww nd where the horThe Tarahumaras: Mexico's By JAMES NORMAN}° Pe Fd i = Mexican City(Continued from pave 703) throttle the Running is sport as well. In men's kickball gam iden ball tire, They run vari ves ranging from port sar ved aff sly across the c ous number flay welve mil two to ¢ from noon to sunset, to 48 hours. No matte ss the finish line I do-after climbin; thing no harder than ntestants zen steps. only to drink water The runners pau: corn they wear belts of rattles to keep them awake nds run witl s they can find torch Years ago two Ta ed Mexico in the 26%. Amsterdam. The runners. Aurelio Terraz, st first place by several minutes, but per their fault old them where the race ¢ and continued runnin: 1 the marathon w hort! ‘Too sh umara men repre: ile marathon at the sit was ie hi crossed the finish line till stopped, Amazed ‘over, they complained New Ways Spumed by Canyon Dwellers irked years to the sea. of The grueling climb to Guagueybo m my third journey in | tormented. stone locally Sierra, Tara humara. The Mounts are at of deep caus sprawled over 10,000 square The rau about 40,000-—have presen vei pre~ Spanish culture, inhabitir huis and mysticism. R, aves and crude rituals anci 1 reclusive, they have nN unustial culture, Almost every setileme called a cures,” al each community of rancho The ti democratically chooses a rinchos are scattered like and canyons, and each of th ly made up of five or six families over 8 are mile Althou thumara often rans o extend from place 4 time means nothi him. He celebratin 1 third of his where he drink au] Tarahumara, rarely works for hungry, for the tractit s unimportant; I wages, But he will not The Tarahtwmaras: Mexico's Long Distance Rrnners t power is the only mode af transpor tween their up Jownstream page} « 20) pyar Lat Buti t ra tword four dollar fF Bato about 50fa tribal welfare system known as Adrima, the more fortunate Tarahumaras are expected to take care of the less fortunate in times of need. At dusk Eliseo and [reached Guagueybo, a tiny Mexican and Indian settlement with a handful of stone and log houses. There was no electricity or runing water. We dined that night on cold canned beans and sardines, and slept miserably on the carthen floor of a deserted schoolhouse, Indians Seldom Mix With Mexicans Guaguexbo rests on a terrace in Urique Canyon, about 3,000 feet above the Urique River and some 1,200 feet below the su rounding high country. The climate permits the growing of apples and peaches, but the best orchardsand fields belong te the Mexican settlers. The handful of Indians living in Guagueybo rarely socialize with the Mexi- cans. Though some may work for them, they don't share in their festivities, nor is there intermarriage between the two groups. An hour's hike away lay a rancho called Awriachi where Eliseo’s uncle, a shaman, lived. The community, strung along a narrow canyon shelf, covered only four or five acres but supported ten families. We crossed 2 tiny cornfield and passed a cave into which » woman and child darted, hiding from us. We skirted a stone hut whose entire roof smoked like a chimney, Suddenly Eliseo shouted at a man and boy working in acorral not far away, Only among relatives is such a thing done, When a Tarahumara calls 6n an unrelated neighbor, he seldom goes directly to the house of cave; he simply waits until someone decides to come out. Eliseo and his uncle approached each ether solemnly and brushed extended palms in greeting. The uncle, Dionisio, had known the outside world; he spoke halting Spanish and wore Levi's, a store-bought shirt, and sandals made from truck tires He told me thit a decade age he had worked as a railroad sec- tion hand. He was the only man among 2! in Amayed in fiesta finery, dancers ata Christmastime festival in Ne his community who bad ever worked at a. steady job, I gestured at the corral. Made of long slim. logs, it measured less than 15 feet on each side. “T move it to feed the earth,” Dionisio said. Every week or so, he added, he and his It-year-old son teok the log fencing apart, assembling it in another section of his small field. AL night they corralled his flock of goats, and sheep there to fertilize the poor soil. “You are rich?” T asked. He nodded his head. cow, three sheep.” “Do vou slaughter thei for meat?” He shook his head. “The goats give milk for making cheese. The sheep give wool. The cows pull the plow. And all the animals give us fertilize “But you do eat mest?” He pointed to his son. “He traps field mice. Good meat. And there is hunting, sometimes a deer or squirrels." Corn is the staple, sup- plemented by beans, squash, and game. Tara- humaras kill and eat their livestock only at important ceremonies Dionisio led us to his house, a one-room, plank-roofed stone hut constructed without mortar or nails. Inside, his wife knelt to grind corn of a stone metate She was preparing corn flour to make pinole, the ‘Tarahumuras’ principal food, Tt is a thickish drink, mare by adding sround roasted corn to water Shaman Battles Wizards" Spells As T peered around the smoke-filled hut, 1 could see no furniture, no beds, ne cabinets— little more than the metate, clay pots, a num ber of wooden spoons, a homemade violin, anid bu idles of clothes and blankets. many Tarahumara abedes, this one lacked a chimney. Smoke fram the open fire escaped wherever it could, blackening walls and ceil- ing along the w: Later, while I sat in the morning sun with Dionisio and sipped pinole, he reluctantly explained his shaman duties “Si, ¥0 fo hago— yes, Ido it,” he said, His primary funetions Wenty goats, a and whirl for hours on end fo the accompaniment of violins and rattles. Fueling, themselves with copious draughts of mile corn beer, participants—who may at- tend as many as OD parties. oF tesjglinadas, i a vear—Bnd in, group celebrations an emotional release fram the physical drudgery and poverty of everyday life Natiowil Geographic, May 1976powerful wizards, 5 ames, aind to per form preven Each spring after ued, “I cure the will not be dit cure planting,” Di Ids, so the dT cure of the rancho so they will not 1 Tarahumaras revere the ing all the se struck peopl hy ligh The and certain plants Fata di ~ator, x menacing deity who Onoruame- or and disasters. TI humar; have had contact with mi and pr fess Christianity, their religious beliefs. re main quite Indian. On the other hand t Christi concepts into their few who t nity have incerporated cert own native I knew that today Dionisio would attempt a cure. Presently he rose, and T accompanied im to a ca’ Men and women were w 1 the the entrance, In. home ide the c dirt floor, sich her fa Dionisio bega: able to mave one atm and stiaman’s ritual, di Warm glow of domesticity | lope Within the prim grinds cornmeal on. a metate for The Tarahumaras: Mexico's t x bow! (The T seven before E 1 with the a small wooden eros inte {1 their world.) He gestur the fe ent cross toward Suddenly he performed an odd hopping Then ached beside the wor und applied a short hollow reed t¢ ct th it her fi Risi nall, Wormlike thi scmes, he the woman's hi ome wigan had se make her sick weted invisible force Tou aws at Indian Ways achi has known But modern wavs in Creel, town 1 northern of the canyon country. Creel used to be 1 Mex post. Twelve years before, T har page 715)FILLING THE SILENCE of his canyon realm, a ue imple a See i rata ee ee rae tin, Cee a ras ro copies models introdu PeDefend yoursely be tricked. We must le: Indian had died 4 world were tak Juan and I looked on from a hill’ ugh folk, Tarahumara fier one falls 1 su lead in initinting court inherit property from from parent pas At the fe hy Indian w ip. And they can nuslandds us well n church. My eyes kept return’ ar standing d, A knife was old mis: woe ehurchya r The ing, one end of the k in its surface n said fe is for the kil ed a rawny brown cow to the altar, There the shaman symbolically oy the animal with a Then he drew the knife slit the cow's A woo the Ibloos patched ne Way Juan said will be boiled with corn, bea The ritu eacophory a big fe: mony: foll fiddles, rattles, sui: women drop drink corn beer (thes 1y drink anything stron; ering about in The mass drunkenne Tarahumara gatherir pe they are, the Indians expend tre urce: and time on their beer cult ro. tate the task of suppl: nel sacri year ey six times, usin pounds of corn. Depe ti to other families, may take part inas many as 90 parti The average T ated one hundred days a year preparing d recuperating from the effects When a Tarahumara builds a house, weed Ics, oF harvests a crop, he calls on his neighbors for help. Their pay is corn b drunk on the spot. They expect nothing more one refuses an invitation to a “work tesgilinada,” even though he must walk for ng Distance Runner 1hours to the job and labor for a few days. He follows a tradition that began before the Spanish conquest, and outsiders’ attempts to suppress the ritual drinking have always failed. Tesyilinadas are too much « unifying part of the Tarahutsiaras’ social, religious, and economic life. Other ceremonies. however, stabilize and uplift the Indians, as T saw at Samachiqui, 3 thriving community west of La Bufa mad. Once a bleak mission village, it now has a government school, hospital, and some run- ning water and electricity, On a Sunday morn- ing there. I attended a tribal assembly and court of justice held outdoors before ait 18th- century church. I met the siriame or geberna- dor (governor) of the Indians at Samachiqui, a strong, intelligent man, Elected by the males of his community, he held absolute authority. Tasked how Jong he would serve in office o set time,” he answered. “T can be siriame for as long as my people want me.” “How do your people pay you?” ©No pay,” he replied with dignity. “It is my duty. T have no special privileges. Tam the judge when wrongs are done, and [ impose punishments. | sometimes represent my peo- ple before the state authorities I order reli- gious ceremonies T deliver sermons. I settle inheritance “Does anyone disobey you?” L asked. He shook the cane he carried, his symbol of office—a yardelong silver-knobbed brazil- wood staff called a disora. “When I speak over the disora, I have authority,” he said quietly. “A ‘Tarahumara would sooner kill himself than disobey his siriame.” Ritual Mixes Religion and Justice Foran hour Indians had been trotting down trails to the churchyard. The siriame, his captain, and two assistants seated themselves on a stone bench. A hundred Tarahumara men. women, and children stood before them in the chill wind, and the siriame gave a sermon in Raramuri about God and proper behavior at fiestas, and then spake of the new: highway about to open up the region, a baskethall-size rock—the Afterward, witness bench for the court of justice—was set in’ the open space between the siriame and his people. Indian after Indian sat on the rock to register complaints. The last person brought before the court was'a young man 718 accused Of fighting at a fiesta. After three witnesses were heard, the siriame sentenced the defendant to seven nights in the wooden jnil beside the church. Then the young man brushed palms with the siriame, showing that there was no resentment: ‘On my last morning before leaving the land. of the long-distance runners, I hiked through rock-strewn highlands south of Creel. Walk- ing miles along the new highway, T passed a construction crew and waved to a workman in Levi's, boots, and a hard hat. He was operating a pneumatic deill, A ‘Tarahumara? Teouldn’t be sure I recalled Father Verplancken saying, “Change is coming, but I hope the Tarahe- maras do not become slaves to civilization.” Change Inevitable in the Long Run? Then I thousht of an astonishing incident of a week earlier, I had descended 4,000 feet to Barranea del Cabre—Capper Canyon — and my legs felt as if they had been stretched on a mesiewal torture rack. Suddenly two ‘Tarahumaras, stripped to. their loineloths, came running barefoot down the trail. Each carried a ten-foot wooden beam on his shoul der. They paused to share a cigarette, and I asked the purpose of the beams “For place down there.” one said in Span- ish. The beams, T learned, were used as shorings in the small gold mines below ‘How much money clo you get for them?” “Ten pesos.” he replied—about 80 cents, for the labor of cutting a tree on the rim of the canyon, shaping it with simple tools, then delivering it at a run to the canyon mines. Why doy run to the mines?” [ asked. The reply was simple: “To go there.” The reasons may be more complex. Per- Tarahumaras developed this ability of the deer chases. Also, their neigh- bors, the Vaquis, were noted runners; so were such other North American Indians as the Apaches, Navajos, and Pim: ‘The Tarahumaras shyly saluted me, shoul- dered their beams as though they were Little League baseball bats, and trotted off down the precipitous trail, An hour later, while 1 was still descending, they passed me on their way back These runners had a modest lumbering s, but they did not seem about to ves to civilization, o National Geagraphie, May 1976NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC socieTy WASHINGTON, 0. rennised “foe the inerense and Aiffarion af reogrephic knowledge” GILBERT HONEY GROSVENOR Eabor, WAI BEE: President, FORE NVSE ‘Charman if the Moa 89 [Matin Qkoonarare Sseurry ja dharaved in Washingrin, DC in cence sh foe Ineo the Uineed Sates a mp see nd ‘cational pintztkan fo locren nee ning gregra bno lee md ‘rmaring Feseus and expert Two ih Gacety han aappoete 23 Feplcutten und’ esearch Prec ttemessira to mah knoeloe ‘teath sex, am any dns oh "isough fs mont) poral. Ne Siowat Crotmaran;pterme ma dia 1 tibet ie ites, Se Kamen. Neboea Geographic WOOK, magainc fer In syenichie nfrtialo yrvcos peta, Fadi md wfc, Pxbecl eeunbsaPop send the wari tn Exes dll sols utters eae, mata ay expen i Ti aes sat deifed: For entra uned enetivos remade MELSIN, MOPAYRE, President UPL Vice Prmuddest and Secretary MILEEARY F HOSKINSGN. Trautes OWEN ANDERSON. WILLIAM T RELL. LEONARD J GRANT. C VERNON SANDERS ‘Araocite Sextet ‘BOARD OF TRUSTEES MELVILLE WELL GROSYENOR atrenan of the Board ad Eat -Chiel THOMAS A, MERNEW. Adesiory Chitra the Boast FRANK HOKMAN MELVIN M. PAYNE, Preside, oynient ante Ales acimal Geographic Set) WARREN [BURGE LAURANCE © ROCKEFELLER Cease uf tbe Untea States esate: Machel others Fmd ROMERY {. DOYLE ROUERT ©. SEAMANS. ise Predent pd Secretary. race, Hones Research tna anoqrapaic Sess? tha Devefoprent Adminstration LLOVEHELLIOTT, Present: JUAN. TRIFPE. Honorary iri: Washinnn Uninersey ‘Chaser he Hal CLAW FORE, GREFNEW, Fran Armcrican War Airways FREDERICK G. YOSRL Edog, Naina G ARTIC GILBERT M, GROS VENOM regan ANSON, General JAMES. WERA. Farmar ‘Aliatzaur, Namal Aerinasice al Space Adenia ALEXANDEK WETMORE Reveatch Associate Storie tio CeISIEAL L WIHRTHE Former {iirscu, ational Pk Service ARLISLI 1 FRUMELSISE (esdent, The Ceol W smb Floatation AMS. LYNDON & JOHNSON CUTIE: LeMAY Former Chit fe Stat, UX Ain Puce Freee: Emer: IC RANDOLEH MADDOX WAM. MeCHESNEY MARTIN, JK. TENJAMUN SE MEREEWAY her Charan. Bout! uf Tov WILSON \Givernons Federal Revesve Syoieas— LOUISAR WRIGHT CONOWITTEE FOR RESEARCH AND EXPLORATION MULVINS MLPAYNE, Chatman EDM IN We SRIDER. evar ALEXAMDIER WETHDIE Charme mete BARRY © NISHOP, GILKERT M. GROSVENDK MELVILLE mat GROSYENOR CARVE, Pe HASRINS, STERLING I. HENDMICK ‘Sted fests ) Dafurtst i Agscubie, THOMAS We MERNEW. HheTTY.} MESICLBS, Rebemes Aveocite Avi igy, Snumhoonst Ia tthe. WORM CSEAMANS He'T DATE ay Ewer Maat tes. Fesg nara, sy iin, AR DE ATCC VON RCL SASHES HTWARECIN Ji” GHORCE E WATSCN, Cote of Ma. Souls Shalt rs CoNicab i wuseti Eas bosue mas PAUL Ghutopest sarey. CON sm wKaOnT, on AT2RHL. Hemet Sem Sees Natal engage at Aiton Sea of te Sige WMA SDE JOSEPHT HH ADRIAN T TOFTN IC LEWISE-LOWE RAYMONDT MctLLiGGTT. Te AURED § FHELES EDWIN W SNIDER ts Fresarer- A FRED TNVTAVRE. Cennard 1 Cian, Baral Atsitant tobe Prevaieat Lean Snide. Ricburd E- Peurva. ASiomitacn Avviste th te President so eg eX He et Yin Me tient dean ama a Hane aaah et erate fee rc Me Ale cone ree ie as ae fers fete ee cane eae A ae (ii ae Me le iGrea Hea it a tarement’ Davis! 1H, Petets (Mimitaperi. Mary L. Whitmore, Devothy L. Dameron aie cree net eae en een eae ieee Mera iearoe ee, ek me Se Ci Re cate me ene See Hiatanin ey Shareanin'g Wau aeons (crane Nate ec ere oe a reaeeeeet reerg eoeptrng ip eoerli meTee ‘COPENGHT [1076 Natiowal Gegragtia Sooty, 17nd M Sm NW., Want tegen, (0. AT ght raved fe wl Oe any Pe 0 ht contents win writen pero fl Secivucavs foe Pak iw (H.C, une ditional moro wiiene Cover design unt te fro feted’ y W'S. atl fea armemark eine, 810 4 jean 519 @ Copy, sn as aed ier wc Taner Cara Aan Ct. ERATED ge Meat sckask Cary Reno Pasion ‘Edi Aner Ht. Movan, Wihon anes, Buber han ten 1 fincas sun Aste Rar lbh Mee Semey Kenn Wenve eee) Thre ¥. Cay, wi 5. En Rowe Fie, "Satie on Porn: ome Noone I Kissel "tGoay. Catherine Mt. Hart Deol A larger "G. hapuaowick. Mary An McA era "eigen he f Se: Chr Sou tr To, Fiwe'A Wak Toman A enka Les Buta Chi Thre B Allg Sermo saben (As Ficlets Rone ene, Charts) Hsia BNE. Ratnam Yee toe Soukee ee | PI aise me sy Sor SC ee ee ee a ese i etl neyo hgThe next best thing to your next door neighbor INTERNATIONAL HARVESTERNavigating a photograph to “see” Magellan above, tly D 1 quarter of 4 mile, he t right) tat 18-MONTH NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY MEMBERSHIP JULY 1976 THROUGH DECEMBER 167 CHECK ‘ONE 1 WISH Te. JOIN. 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Bravo, / 4 Aspen Winner of the 1976 Motor Trend Mayesine Car of the Year Award 2“We hooked into a marlin that probably went about 250-lbs, He was magnificent. To tell you — the truth, was kind of glad © 5 | the fish got away.’ Bob and Ellie Cagnina on the Cagninas’ second visit to Bermuda “We ended up eatching’a 40-Ib. wahoo. It gave me one heck of a fight. Absolutely beautiful. Areal fighter’ Next day, we visited St. David's lighthouse. A spectacular view! White roofs, color contrasts. Just beautiful.” Bermuda Unspoiled. Unhurried, Uncommon. = Bigg. Boston gue 02116 See ys ne agen ee Berman De 610 ith ven, KY WY, NODES ar PLE BratChesapeake Bay watermen annually haewest millions of the blue crab The succulent crustaceans will be steamed, stuffed, deviled, shredded into sulads, patted into Blue crab: crab ciikes, and, in their soft-shell stu whole main cog in Haymen keep a sharp eye ont i for crabs about to shed their an “immense AT er Estandd. protein factory” exoskelctons packer can spot a pecler by its paddlelike hackfin; Crab with a white edge to his paddle, he's ps about a week to go. Pink rim, he'll shed in three di ted in the paddle, they'll shuck their Sheil in a d: A crib coming the seams is a “buster” he'll molt within hours Out of water, the ‘sofi-shell does not harden The crab reaches nts packed alive i, Wet sea er HLL. Mencken called the bay an immense protein factory." But nddians may have saie it first peuhe—according to some great shellfish und it és that yet, Despite the overfishing that depleted the world’s finest natural spawning beds. the bay still leads the country in oyster production Clams and eras abound. To hear # Waterman talk, it's a good thing only two or three crabs survive from the million or more eges a female carries. Otherwise, “the world'd be et up by crabs,” Some 150 fivers, branches; crecks. sind sloughs bearing names stich as Crab Alley, Ape je. anid Bulfbegger flow into Bay. From the mouth he Susquehanna to the Virginia capes. the bay Washes more than five thousand miles of shore! observed in he waters, Isles, and are full of safe harbours for shiptt of warte of marehandize, for boats ‘of all sortes for transportation or fishing.” of Skipiwcks and be British frig limore clipper aircraft carriers all have furrowed Chesapeake waters. Here ironclads Monitor and Merrimack revolutioniz naval warfare. Toclay’s freighters churn north toward Baltimore beneath twin spats linking Annapolis to the Eastern Shor and working sailboats “dr the bottom for oysters just did «century The Chesupeake Bay waterman is but one of the unique people readers meet in the wide-ranging pages of Narionat GEOGRAPHIC and submarines theyworld awhile, for ataste/of ours. CPO OU ae ROC oora mig Poe ete colo SUE Pei imeelimy UM) am iae tty Pine CTR eco Me Ue ROU ee RC ao tito a sea-green course. Play tennis, swim, fish, sail. Some me meg remem cary Bes toh Rome omc eer Pati Ue ee a DM Ue or tree rm rad Rem ee Sleep under an heirloom quilt in a salt-sprayed Captain’s house. Oe Cael noe Pee ecm eer Bae cy PC ee eo Deora Beet a niet ey Liddell dee UC ee ee eee ed vacation hit NEW YORK: Sulte 3415; 630 Filth Ave, N.Y. 10020; (212) 581-2420 NEW ENGLAND: 10 Preble Street, Portland. Me. O&T11 Cee a eat ee ee eatin ae errBahamas. The country of 700 islands.= os E: INDUSTRIES:See the Hawaii most people dont. 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