Dermatologic Therapy, Vol. 26, 2013, 267271 2013 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.

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DERMATOLOGIC THERAPY
ISSN 1396-0296

THERAPEUTIC HOTLINE
The use of green tea extract in
cosmetic formulations: not only an
antioxidant active ingredient
Mirela D. Gianeti, Daiane G. Mercurio &
Patricia M. B. G. Maia Campos
Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences of Ribeiro Preto, University of Sao
Paulo, So Paulo, Brazil

ABSTRACT: Green tea (GT) extracts contain polyphenols, known to be effective free radical scavengers,
and other ingredients that could also provide benefits to the skin. This is a report on clinical studies
using objective, noninvasive methods to evaluate the effects of cosmetic formulations containing GT.
Experimental formulations were supplemented or not (vehicle) with 6% Camellia sinensis glycolic leaf
extracts (GT). These formulations were applied to the forearm skin of 24 volunteers, and their effects
were evaluated before and after 2 hours, 15 and 30 days according to the following parameters: stratum
corneum water content, transepidermal water loss, skin viscoelastic-to-elastic ratio (Uv/Ue), and
microrelief. The volunteers were instructed not to apply any formulation in an area of the forearm
(control area). Experimental formulations (GT) increased skin moisture in the long-term study, indi-
cating that GT has a prolonged moisturizing effect. The Uv/Ue was significantly enhanced after 30 days
of topical application of the experimental formulation when compared with vehicle and control. After
1530 days, skin microrelief was significantly improved due to a reduction in skin roughness. The results
suggest that GT-containing cosmetic formulations have pronounced moisturizing effects and improve
skin microrelief.

KEYWORDS: clinical efficacy, cosmetic formulations, skin biophysical techniques

Introduction among these, extracts of green tea are widely

To ameliorate the symptoms of skin aging, many
preparations, as plant extracts, are frequently used
in antiaging products due to their moisturiz-
ing, antioxidant, and protective effects (1). Plant
extracts containing natural ingredients with anti-
oxidant properties have been of great interest and,
Address correspondence and reprint requests to: Patrcia M. B.
G. Maia Campos, PhD, Professor, Faculty of Pharmaceutical
Sciences of Ribeirao Preto, University of Sao Paulo, s/n,
Avenida do Caf, Monte Alegre, Ribeiro Preto, SP 14040-903,
Brazil, or email: pmcampos@usp.br.
employed (1,2).
Green tea (GT) extracts contain four catechin
derivatives, predominantly epicatechin, epigallo-
catechin, epicatequinagalato, and epigallocate-
chin-3-gallate (EGCG). These derivatives have
been investigated due to their antioxidant, anti-
inflammatory, and anticancer effects (2). The green
tea polyphenols vehiculated in cosmetic formula-
tions show good skin penetration and retention.
These properties may favor skin performance
(1) like the inhibition of acute effects caused by
exposure to UVB radiation, reduction of inflam-
mation and, consequently, the erythema and

267
Gianeti et al.
immunosuppression induced by solar radiation
(3). GT antioxidant properties neutralize reactive
oxygen species, thereby preventing lipid peroxida-
tion and photoaging (3).
Other important ingredients such as proteins,
amino acids, carbohydrates, lipids (linoleic and
linolenic acids), vitamins (B, C, and E), caffeine,
pigments (chlorophyll and carotenoids), volatile
compounds, and minerals are present in GT
extracts (4). These components could also provide
extra benefits to the skin, like moisturizing and
protective effects (5,6). Clinical studies by derma-
tologists showed an improvement in skin texture
and appearance in 45% of volunteers after the
4-week application of a gel with EGCG, the major
catechin in GT (7). Another study conducted by
Chiu et al. (2005) (8) showed a statistically signifi-
cant increase of elastic tissue in the skin of patients
who received a combination of oral supplementa-
tion and topical application of a cream containing
10% GT, compared with the placebo group.
Although GT has been used in cosmetic prod-
ucts due to its antioxidant proprieties, only few
studies evaluate the effects of GT extracts in skin
moisture, texture, and appearance. Clinical objec-
tive studies are, thus, necessary to demonstrate the
effects of GT in skin hydration, microrelief, and vis-
coelasticity in order to validate the claims.
To substantiate the efficacy of cosmetic prod-
ucts, noninvasive techniques like biophysical and
skin image analyses have been introduced into
cosmetology to evaluate products under real con-
ditions of use.
The aim of this study was to evaluate the effects
of a cosmetic formulation containing GT in the
improvement of skin conditions assessed by clini-
cal studies using objective noninvasive methods.
The results are very important to evaluate the effect
of GT extracts and contribute to validate use in cos-
metic products.
Methods
Formulations
Formulations (F), containing 3.0% (w/w) of a
trilaureth-4 phosphate-based blend (Hostacerin
SAFTM, Clariant, Brazil) and 1.0% Sclerotium gum
polysaccharide (Amigel, PharmaSpecial, So Paulo,
Brazil) were prepared in a Heidolph RZR 2021
shaker (Heidolph Instruments GmbH & Co. KG,
Schwabach, Germany) at approximately 625 rpm
and supplemented (formulation with 6.0% [w/w]
of Camellia sinensis [green tea] glycolic leaf extract;
268
FGT) or not (F) with 6.0% (w/w) of Camellia sinen-
sis (green tea) glycolic leaf extract (Alban Muller
International, Vincennes, France).
Study protocol
The Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences of Ribeiro
Preto USP Ethics in Research Committee (CEP/
FCFRP 0 7/ 2001) approved the study. Twenty-four
healthy female subjects, 2540 years old and having
skin Fitzpatrick types II and III, were included in this
study after signing the written informed consent.
During the test period, subjects were allowed to
wash normally but were instructed not to use any
other skin care products on their arms.
Prior to all measurements, subjects remained
in the premises for at least 30 minutes for full
skin adaptation to room temperature (20 2C)
and humidity (4560%). Formulations containing
(FGT) or not (F) were randomly applied on subject
forearms, and all measurements were carried out
according to relevant guidelines. In addition, the
volunteers were instructed not to apply any formu-
lation in a certain area of the forearm, which served
as control.
Effects after a single application
After baseline measurements, 0.1 g/cm2 of each
formulation (F or FGT) were applied on different
forearms. After 2 hours, the effects were evaluated
by new measurements.
Effects of daily applications after 15 and 30 days
After the baseline measurements, approximately
0.1 g/cm2 of formulation was applied to the
forearm of each subject, twice daily, in the
morning and in the evening, during 15 and 30
days; 1 and 2 weeks after application, intermedi-
ate measurements were carried out, 1215 hours
after the last treatment, i.e., the formulations were
applied in the evening and the measurements
were taken the following day.
Instrumentation
Effects on the volar forearms were evaluated by
biophysical techniques and skin image analyses as
follows: stratum corneum water content deter-
mined using Corneometer TM CM 825 (Courage &
Khazaka, Cologne, Germany), the Tewameter TM
210 (Courage & Khazaka) quantified transepider-
mal water loss (TEWL), skin viscoelastic-to-elastic
ratio (Uv/Ue) using Cutometer SEM 575 (Courage
 The use of green tea extract in cosmetics

& Khazaka) and skin microrelief by surface evalua- Results

tion of living skin (SELS) using Visio Scan VC98
(Courage & Khazaka). Effects after single applications of
GT-containing or vehicle formulations
on normal skin
Statistical analysis
Both formulations, containing GT or vehicle
Parametric tests were selected for statistical analy- only, showed increased skin moisture 2 hours
sis of the experimental data points showing a Gaus- after application (FIG. 1A) when compared with
sian distribution. The analysis of variance test was controls.
used for comparison of multiple measured data Skin viscoelastic properties (FIG. 1B), TEWL
points. Differences were accepted as statistically (FIG. 1D), and skin microrelief (FIG. 1C, E, and
significant at p < 0.05. F) were not significantly altered 2 hours

A B
Stratum corneum water content (A.U)

Viscoelastic-to-elastic ratio (Uv/Ue)

60 0.35
vehicle (v)
0.30 * vehicle (v)

50 ** * v + green tea v + green tea

* control area 0.25

0.20
control area

40
0.15

30 0.10
0.05
20 0.00
0 2 15 30 0 2 15 30
Time Time

C D
2
vehicle (v) 10
vehicle (v)
v + green tea
Skin texture (Ser)

v + green tea
control area
control area
* *
TEWL

1 5

0 0
0 2 15 30 0 2 15 30
Time Time

E F
60
Skin smoothness (Sesm)

vehicle (v) 70
50 vehicle (v)
v + green tea
Skin roughness (RT)

60 v + green tea
40 control area
control area
50
30

20 40

10 30

0 20
0 2 15 30 0 2 15 30
Time Time

FIG. 1. (A) Average values of stratum corneum water content (20 measurements/area), (B) viscoelastic-to-elastic ratio (1
measurement/area) (Uv/Ue), (C) skin texture expressed as Ser, (D) TEWL (5 measurement/area), (E) skin smoothness (1
measurement/area) (Sesm), (F) skin roughness (1 measurement/area) (Rt), before (baseline values) 2 hours, 15 and 30 days after
the application of the formulations studied. *Significantly different from the other values (p < 0.05). TEWL, transepidermal water
loss.

269
Gianeti et al.
after the application of the formulations under
study.
Effects of preparations containing GT or vehicle
only after daily applications on normal skin
during 15 and 30 days
Only GT-containing formulations increased skin
moisture in the long-term study when compared
with control and vehicle (FIG. 1A), which confirms
that GT has a prolonged moisture effect on skin
surfaces (9).
The Uv/Ue was significantly enhanced after 30
days of topical application of the formulation con-
taining GT when compared with control and
vehicle (FIG. 1B). The effect may be related to the
increased water content in viable epidermis, as
parameters related with skin elasticity were not
altered (10).
After the 15 and 30 day periods of application of
the GT-containing formulation, skin microrelief
was significantly improved, due to a reduction of
roughness according to the Ser parameter (texture)
(FIG. 1C). A decrease of TEWL and skin roughness
and an increase of skin smoothness (FIG. 1DF)
were also observed, but these effects were not sta-
tistically significant.
Discussion
Benefits of cosmetic formulations containing GT
were evaluated in the study by determining
improvements, if any, in skin moisture, micro
relief, and protection.
The results show that GT has a prolonged
improved moisturizing effect when compared with
the vehicle, as the formulation containing the
extract significantly increased the water content of
the stratum corneum as shown by the intermediate
measurements (1215 hours after the last applica-
tion of the formulation) in the long-term studies.
This result was probably due to vitamins, proteins,
and carbohydrates contained in GT, which may
improve water retention in the stratum corneum
(5,6).
The Uv/Ue was significantly enhanced after 30
days of topical application of the formulation con-
taining GT when compared with control and
vehicle. Uv and Uv/Ue parameters represent the
viscoelastic part of skin deformation and are
attributed to displacement of the interstitial fluid,
containing water and highly viscous glucosa-
minoglycans, through the fiber network (11). The
increase in the Uv/Ue ratio may mean a decrease of
270
interstitial fluid viscosity, as a result of increased
water content. In addition, the results suggest an
increase in skin hydration that is not limited to the
upper cell layers but is also present in the deeper
ones (4,9,11).
The SELS method provides parameters related
to the microrelief and structure of the skin surface
including roughness, scaling, smoothness, and
wrinkling. Skin microrelief was altered 15 and
30 days after application of the GT-containing
product as reduced Ser values (skin texture) were
obtained when compared with vehicle. The Ser
parameter considers the portion of dark spots that
represent skin roughness. The decreased param-
eter represents an increase in skin surface and
texture, suggesting that GT in cosmetic formula-
tions also improves skin appearance (4,5).
This study constitutes an objective clinical
evaluation of the important moisturizing effect of
cosmetic formulations containing GT extracts. Fur-
thermore, the improvements shown in parameters
evaluated after use of the plant extract emphasize
clinical effects on skin hydration and microrelief,
besides presenting antioxidant activity.
Conclusion
Clinical experimental conditions showed that for-
mulations containing GT extracts have significant
skin moisturizing effects (immediate and long
term). They improve skin microrelief (skin texture)
represented by reduced skin roughness and
enhanced skin smoothness and also alter the
Uv/Ue, in the long-term study.
The improvement in skin conditions and
enhancement in the performance of cosmetic
products suggest that GT extracts are promising
botanical ingredients in cosmetic formulations.
Acknowledgements
The authors gratefully acknowledge the financial
support of the Conselho Nacional de Desenvol-
vimento Cientfico e Tecnolgico (CNPq) and
Fundao de Amparo Pesquisa do Estado de So
Paulo (FAPESP), Brazil.
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