Q any, Adjusting your pattern plece to your size - If your ‘ments cross into multiple ses, you can “customize” the pat- tem piece to fit. Choose the size that matches your bust, waist ‘and hip measurements and connect the corresponding lines with a smooth, even line. Appliqué - This s a technique in which pieces of fabric ore sewn or fused onto a foundation piece of fabric to create designs. A fight zigzag sfitch is used to fnish the edges. Backslitch - This is used to reinforce your stitching to help keep it from unraveling. To do this, put your machine in the reverse position and stitch 3 or 4 stitches, tack - To bar tack, use the widest zigzag stitch on your machine and sew a few times in place fo secure a seam or the end of a zipper. Blas - See Fabric grain, Binding - A binging is the folded fabric strip used to finish the raw edge of certain projects, such os quilt. there are three different types of binding that we have used. Following ore instructions for each of the binding techniques. ‘L french Bias Binding. also known as double binding or French bias tope Cut binding strips on the bias of the fabric by fist placing the fabric 10 be used on a fat surface, RIGHT side up. Fold one corner RIGHT sides together, matching one selvage edge with one of the cut edges to make a triangle shape. Press a crease on the fold. Then open the fabric and cut along the creased edge. Starting at one end of the cut line, measure over the distance instructed in the project on the fabric’s RIGHT side and make ‘@ mark, Make another mark the same distance an the fabric from the opposite end of the cut line. Match the 2 marks and draw a line using a ruler and fabric marker. This will create a bias stip the width needed for your project, parallel to the newly cut bias ‘edge. Continue to measure and mark bias strips until you 3 have the length called for in the in dividual instruction. & Techniques & Terminology To join the stips into one long piece. lay the strips perpendicular to each ‘other with the RIGHT sides together. stitch ‘across the diagonal ‘edges of the strips with 21/2" seam. Then tim the seam allowance to 1/4” and press the seam ‘allowance open. Trim ‘any small “tals” of fabric at the seam of the bios binding. Repeat until you have joined all of the strips into one long bios stip. Fold the bios strip in haif lengthwise with the WRONG side together and press. Beginning on one side of the project (do not begin near a comer), place the raw edge of bias strip RIGHT sides together with row edge of the project. Leave at least 4” dangling free from the beginning point. Stitch a 1/2" seam fo hold the binding in place. Mier the comer - Stop stitching 1/2" from corner, backstitch ‘and remove the project from the sewing machine. Rotate the project 1/4 tun and fold the binding straight up, away from the comer forming @ 45° angle. Bring the binding straight ‘down in line with the next edge to be sewn, leaving the top fold even with the raw edge of the previous side. Begin stich: ing at the top edge and continue to the next comer. Com- plete all 4 comers in this way.2 Ry, -Finish the end of the binding - When you approach the be- inning point, stop stitching, leaving the needle in the down position. Fold the beginning of the binding 1” back to the WRONG side and lay fat against the edge of the project, Lay the end of the binding strip over the folded beginning edge ond stitch through all ayers Stitch 1" beyond folded edge and backstitch at each end, Trim excess binding, When the binging is turned to the back of the project the beginning fold wil cover and hide the ending raw edge. Feidea cca’ ot Tum the binding to the back of the project, and finish - Bring the folded edge of the binding to the back of the project so that it covers the stitching line. Pin it in place. Slipstitch the folded edge to the back of the project, folding the comers to create mitered comers. ‘2098 fo book. ‘2.French Straight Binding Cut strips for binding by cutting the width called for in the pattem instructions across the width of the fabric (nat on the bias) Insructions to attach binding, miter comers, finish the fend of the binding, and turn the binding to the back of the project and finish are the some as French Blas Binding, Techniques & Terminology se Bi Binding strips for Single Bias Binding are cut in he same way {a5 for French Bios Binding, After cutting strips and connecting them, fold one long raw edge 1/2" foward the WRONG side ‘and press. Place the unfolded raw edge RIGHT sides together on the Back edge of the project. Leave at least 4" dangling free from the beginning point. Stitch the binding in place with a 1/2" seam. Miter ‘comers and finish the end in the same way os for French Bias Binding, toskot he project Buttonhole - To make a buttonhole you fist need fo measure the button you will be using. For example, if your button is 1/2" ‘wide, you will make the sie of the buttonhole {nat including the top and bottom finished ends) measure 1/2". Once you have figured out where you need to place your sertack buttonnole, measure stathee——> gum ‘and mark the length of Tight nano the button on your proj- 9109 dong ‘ect with a chalk pencil Ifyou do not have a buttonhole setting or foot on your sewing machine, ust use the following alternative method for making a Ss se tect agen buttonhole: Using the zigzag setting on your sewing machine, mark a bar tack {this means using the widest zigzag stitch and stitching few fimes in place] at the top of the buttonhole measure- ment on your project with a tight and wide zigzag stitch. Sew back and forth @ few times, then set your zigzag on a tight, narrow stitch to sew the fist side of the butfonhole. At the bottom of the fist side, reset the stitch for a tight, wide zigzag stitch, and sew a bar tack again at the bottom. Reset the slitch for a fight, narrow zigzag, and sew up the second side of the buttonhole. Set your stitch width to zero and sew ‘a couple stitches in place to "lock" the zigzag stitches and finish the buttonhole. Carefully cut the buttonhole open with ‘a seam ripper. Clip - Clipping allows some give in your seam allowance, ‘especially its curved, in order to make the seam le fat and make it easier fo furn your project RIGHT side out. When clip: ping, use your scissors to cut into the seam allowance only, making cuts up to the stitch line, taking care not to cut your stitching,2 Ry, -Crosswise grain - See Fabric grain Cut fabric on the fold (How to) - To cut a pattern piece on the fold of your fabric, lay it even with the folded edge. Once the fabric piece is cut out, open it up and it wil make one fullsize panel. -Dot on the pattem piece - To use the dot marked on the pattem piece, frst fransfer the dot onto the WRONG side of the fabric piece by marking its postion with your chalk pencil Dots are used in a few ways. Fist, when you are sfitching the pieces together, you can use a dot as the starting or stopping point for the stitching, Second, a dot can serve as the point where you wil pivot and furn the project before you continue stitching. Finally, a dot can identify where you should end a Clip in order to easily turn the project RIGHT side out. Edge stilch - An edge stitch done by machine very close to the edge or seam in order to finish a project, close on open: ing, or slitch something in place. -Embroidery Stitches Backstitch: Fist mark the shape as a guide for your stitches. Using a single layer of stitching, insert your needle up through point A and down through point 8. Then bring your needle up at point C and down again through point A. Continue in this manner to the end of your marked fine. Satin stitch: Fist mark the shape {8 a guide for your stitches. Insert your needle up at point A {and down though point B. Bing your needle up through point C and repeat moving each stitch next to the previous, Techniques & Terminology Fabric grain - Most fabric is made using a set of fixed length- ‘wise threads woven at right angles with a set of crosswise threads. Grain indicates the direction of these threads. Lengthwise grain (also colled straight of grain) refers to the lengthwise threads, or the fabric's length parallel to the se vage edge. Crosswise grain refers fo the crosswise threads, ‘or the fabric’s width and runs across the fabric from selvage to selvage. Bias refers to any diagonal ine crossing either the lengthwise or crosswise grain. The bias fold refers to the diago: al fold of rectangle of fabric to align one selvage edge [or ‘an edge cut on the lengthwise grain) with one edge cut on the crosswise grain, producing a 45-degree angle fold, -Finger press - You can “press” open the seam allowance of ‘@ seam using your finger or thumbnail fo form a crease on the fabric that cannot be pressed ors a tight area where the iron wil not ft “Gathering stitch - Using the longest stitch on your machine ‘and a loose bobbin tension enables you to pull the bobbin thread fo gather your fabric; do not backslitch at either end. “Grain - See Fabric grain. -Gusset - This is @ small square or tiangular-shaped piece of fabric that s created by placing a side seam flat against a bottom seam or crease and stitching across them. A gusset ‘wil make a square bottom where there was only a flat- seamed bottom, -Hand-baste - Basting is used to temporary hold two pieces of fabric together fo prevent shifting while sewing final slitches. Basting can be done with pins, a sewing machine, ‘orby hand. To hand baste, place the two pieces of fabric in desired postion. Then make a series of long, running stitches in the area described in the pattem instructions. -Hand slitch -See Slipstiching. -Intertacing - A stiffening fobric-lke material used to give your project strength and durability. Interfacing also gives lighter ‘weight fabrics form and body. There are different types of interfacings, fusible (press-on) and sew-in interfacings, both of ‘which comes in various weights. If you buy fusible interfacing, be sure to ask for directions to correctly apply the fusible, -Lengthwise grain - See Fabric grain, -Machine Appliqué - Use a tight zigzag stitch to nicely Anish the edge of a shape that you are attaching or appliquéing to ‘your project: -Machine baste - A machine basting stitch is used to hold sec- tions of your project in place until you are ready to complete ‘your final stitches. Use the longest slitch on your machine so. ‘you can easily remove these basting stitches later. You do ot have fo backsiich at either end of your stitching.2 RY, Miter -The diagonal fold made at the corner in an edge fin- ish, such as a binding, hem, etc. -Notches - The notches are the triangle shapes along the cut {ing ines, which are used to match 2 different fabvic pieces for correct placement. Pivot -Pivoting is used when you reach @ comer or any place where you want to turn and continue stitching ina different direction. To pivot, stop stitching but keep your fabric in place in the sewing machine. With your needle in the down postion, pick up the presser foot, and rolate or move your fabric 10, continue sfitching in a different direction, -Preshrink - We recommend you wash and dry your fabric to llow for any shrinkage before cutting out your project. Itis important fo preshrink because most cotton and other natu- ral fibers will shrink when laundered, which could change the shape of your project and we don't want that to happen! Press -Itis so important to press your fabrics before you cut out and sew your project, and as you are constructing your project. This makes a huge difference with your end results, Fist you should always press your fabric after washing it. Any wrinkles let on your fabric can distort your pattern after being cut out. Pressing your seams as you make your project can make the difference in the final look of your project. -Pressing cloth - A pressing cloth isa piece of neutral fabric. It is placed between the project and the iron to prevent shiny ‘marks or scorching caused by the heat of the ion. You con {so dampen the cloth when you want fo create more steam to help press seams and press out creases in your fabric. Reinforcement stitch - Ths stitching is done to add strength {and support to specific areas in your project. You would use reinforcement sfitching at the end of a clip or where alot of tension is going to be put on the fabric. Seam, slitching o 1/4" - This means stitching a 1/4" in from, the edges of two aligned fabrics or paris of a project to join them. -Seam allowance - A seam allowance is the fabric extending from the slitching line to the edge. it can be pressed open or to one side, as indicated in the project dlrections. -Seam ripper - A seam ripper is a tool used in a few different ‘ways. To clip the threads in the seam removing the slitching line. To make an opening in the center of a stitched area, sim- ply poke the pointed end of the tool through the fabric and Use the cutting edge to cut the fabric away. Be careful not to push foo hard or clip your stitching, Techniques & Terminology -Selvage edge - The narrow, tightly woven finished edge ‘along each side of the lengthwise grain of your fabric. -Siipstitch - You wil need a long piece of thread and o sharp needle, ~To begin, feed one end of the thread through the eye of the needle, doubling the thread back on itself. Match the cut ‘ends and make a double knot. Insert your needle into your fabric and pul the thread taut, hiding the knot. Then insert the needle through a few threads on the other ‘edge of the fabric. Pull fhe thread through unilits taut, = Now insert the needle back into the fist side through about 1/2” of the fabric, hiding the thread inside a fold. Push the needle through the fabric and again pull the thread tout. = Repeat this process until you have stitched your fabric to- gether keeping even spaces between stitches. “To finish, tie off your stitching by making a double knot close to the fabric and cut your excess threads to tree your needle. -Stay stitching - Slay stitching is sown in the seam allowance before construction to stabilize curved or slanted edges so the fabric on these edges does not stretch. -Siitch-in-the-dilch - This stitching, done either by machine or by hand as indicated in the pattem instructions, is sewn in the .gtoove formed by the seam. Make sure fo ine up any seams Undemeath so both seams willbe sewn through neally -Straight of Grain - See Fabric grain. Strap - General instructions are the same to make a Strap, Tie and Drawstring, To make « Strap, follow the instructions below: Specific chenges/adjustments willbe shown in individual pat- terns. |A, Fold the strap strip in half lengthwise, with WRONG sides together a cq t ‘and press at the fold, 8. Open the strip ‘and fold ‘each long raw edge in to meet the center cand press. eZ Reid in hat ond stitch, . Then fold the stip in half at the center cease, enclosing aliof the raw edges, and press well. Pin the folded edges together and edge stitch close to the folded edges on each long edge of the Strap.2 Ry, -Tallor's ham - A tailor’s ham isa firmly stuffed ham-shaped ool used fo press seams around curved areas on a project You could also use a folded towel to support the curve and press the seams fat. Tallor's ham can be purchased in most sewing stores. “Template - A pattem piece used for tracing or for marking guidetines, -Topstitch - Topstitching is used for several purposes. It rishes your project and gives it a neat appearance: tis used to Close openings lef! for turning your project RIGHT side out; and it can be used as a reinforcement stitch, by adding another row of stitching to areas that will be used heavily and receive more wear. To topsfich stitch parallel o an edge another seam for the distance suggested in the projects directions, Tracing paper - Pope with a coating on one or both sides. Used with the tracing wheel or chalk pencil fo transfer mark ings from a paper pattern piece to the fabric, “Tracing wheel - An instrument with seated teeth on a whee! attached to a handle. Makes slotted perforations. Used with Cr without tracing paper to transfer marking from paper fo the fabric. -Transferlines/marks from a pattern piece onto your fabric (How to) - On c hard flat surface, smooth out your fabric and place your tracing paper over the area where youneed to fransfer, marks or lines. Place your patter piece over the ‘racing paper and transfer the lines or marks using a tracing wheel or a chak pencil im the comers - This s a great finishing technique used to add shape and definition fo comers on your project. Use your scissors to cut off the tip of the comer in the seam allowance in order to take out the bulk. Be careful not to cut into your project or your stitching. Once you turn your project RIGHT side out, your comer will have a neat, squared-off look. -Ttim the seam allowance - This technique reduces bulk round curved seams, so that they willie flat when you turn the project RIGHT side out. Use your scissors to cut off most of the excess fabric in the seam allowance. Be sure to press out these areas once you've turned the RIGHT side out. “Turing tool - A tuming tools @ pointed object such as a closed pair of scissors that can be used to push out the cor- ners on your project after you have turned it RIGHT side out, Specially made turning tools, usually constructed of plastic or wood, are available at sewing and fabric stores. When using @ turning tool. push out the comers gently. especially if you ‘re working with delicate, lightweight fabric. Techniques & Terminology -Understitching - Understitching keeps « facing or lning ‘and its seam allowance from roling 10 the RIGHT side of the garment and lows the garment to lie fat and smooth. It is done by opening the facing/lining away from the Exterior ‘and pressing the seam allowance foward the facing or lin- ing, Working from the RIGHT sie of the facing/lining, stitch through the facing/liing and the seam allowance, stitching close fo the seam line, oF as instructed in the pattern direc- tions. -Whip slitch - A hand sewing stitch using overcast stitches. Sitches poss over the edge of the fabric diagonally. Whip stitching is usually used to close an opening that will not show the finished project.