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HR4-10 Automatic Hydraulic Interlocking Lego Brick Machine PDF
HR4-10 Automatic Hydraulic Interlocking Lego Brick Machine PDF
HR4-10
(4 Bricks per Mold)
(8000-9000pcs per Day)
Note: Molds are with carburizing hear treatment to double mold’s life
Power 7.5KW
Pressure 21Mpa
JQ500 mixer
Overall size 1500(L)×1500(W)×1300(H)mm
Shaping cycle 5 mins
Volume 500L (25Kgs Cement)
Electricity 380V/220V/ (adjustable)
Total weight 450KGS
Soil Screen
Power 3 KW
Capacity 480KG/H
Size Diameter:4mm
Earth Crusher
Overall size 1100(L)×1100(W)×1400(H)mm
Power 5.5KW
Capacity 500KG/H
This brick model is the most used because of the practicality; it is used like intermediate bricks, wall corners and
massive or leaked beams.
On virtue of leaked system and perfect fitting vertically, they allow the pass of the electric ducts and the hydraulic
system, and others, avoiding breaking walls to pass them. This avoids the rubbish increase, the material wastes,
break-break and the walls restoration, being that in the conventional system of construction this prejudice is
inevitably. The finishing of this apparent masonry will be realized just by the voids grouting between the bricks and
then, with your waterproofing.
(2) Half block – No. 10
Used to termination of internal walls, windows, doors and others, if necessary. The great advantage of half
ecological brick is that no needs to be cut or breaking it to do the walls ends.
The work executor doesn’t wrong in ideal size of half ecological brick and, more or less, will stop your work to
measure and cut in pieces. So, easily and guarantee a good finishing when is used, avoiding wastes. Beyond that, he
guarantees agility, cleaning and economy
(3) Chute block- No. 2
Available in many models, being that the most used are the holes fitting ones, but the Chute Brick without holes, is
being well applied on works too. The main feature is that it can be placed in many positions and dimensions, used
like stick above and below the windows and doors, and can be used to reinforce in the middle of the walls and back
of a chair (beam above the last layer).
The Ecological Chute Brick enables the vertically and horizontally pass of networks ducts used during the work,
beyond that, this model is lighter to worker’s handling and to use it, avoiding the work of destroying part of the
walls bricks already built, to the chutes opening. So, the Chute Brick enables the conduit pass like: network of
water, sewer, electric, electronic, TV aerial, phones and others. The advantages are: avoids the waste of material,
reduces the manpower and provides more flexibility and economy.
Water 3%
Cement 5-10%
clay 80-90%
Soil Selection
Soil. This consists principally of sand, clay and silt. blocks cannot be moulded from pure sand
(which will not compress) or from soil with a very high (>35%) clay content. High-clay soils
require the addition of sand, and a higher cement content, to prevent the blocks from cracking.
The soil must be free of organic material and must not contain harmful quantities of salts; it should
contain just sufficient clay to bind the blocks so that they may be handled immediately after
Topsoil. Topsoil is not used because it invariably contains organic matter (roots, leaves and grass)
which inhibits the setting of cement. When clearing the area to be dug, barrow the topsoil away
Clay. This is ‘plastic’ – it expands and contracts – giving the soil the necessary ‘plasticity’ for
Excessive clay content (>35%) causes surface cracking when it ‘relaxes’ after high compression.
Most often, these cracks are less than 1 mm deep, but blocks made from soils with very high clay
Finding Good Soil. Generally, the clay content of the lower soil layers is higher than the upper
1. is free of gravel or hard laterite lumps – this saves sieving and extends your wear plate life;
2. has a clay content of between 15% and 35%; when very high-clay soils are used, the outer
surfaces of the blocks ‘relax’ when the pressure is removed, causing surface cracking; this is due
to the ‘plasticity’ (or compressibility) of the clay which expands when the pressure is released
3. is free of roots, leaves and grass; organic matter inhibits the setting of cement.
Curing
Wherever cement is used, it is vitally important that it be properly ‘cured’ (kept wet). Cement
needs water to ‘hydrate’, or gain strength, and it requires 28 days’ curing to achieve full strength.
Ordinary Portland Cement (OPC) achieves only about 60% strength in the first 7 days, and about
85% in 14 days. Curing is particularly important with blocks because the cement requirement is
low.
Keeping the blocks wet is vitally important to final block strength. The better the curing, the
more durable the blocks become. The day after the blocks are made, uncover and water them
generously twice every day – once in the morning and once in the evening – then cover again
immediately. Keep the blocks covered and watered for at least 14 days. Additional block
strength will be gained by curing for up to 28 days. The blocks must be properly covered so that
they do not dry out – seal polythene or tarpaulin edges carefully. A groundsheet improves retention
of water.
Curing blocks under cover, or in a shed, does not mean that you do not need to cover them –
they will dry out quickly, even under shade. Unless you have a sprinkler system which will keep