q's transport from chennai airport to m'puram

.............................
SOUTH INDIAN EXPLORER
SYNOPSIS: Expect extreme poverty, beggars, touts, hassles and scams, lack of hyg
iene, illness from food and environment, massive crowds, and general chaos. Stil
l, it is a land filled with amazing beauty, history, adventure, and friendly peo
ple. South India is a photographer's heaven.
ITINERARY: (Chennai) - Mamallapuram - Pondicherry - Trichy? - Madurai - Munnar -
Kumily - Kottayam - Varkala - Kollam - Allepey - Kochi - Mangalore? - Mysore -
Goa - Hampi - Mumbai (Aurangabad/Ellora/ Ajanta?)
Tamil Nadu Options: (A) Madurai - Rameshwaram - Kanyakumari - Trivandrum - Varka
la. (B) Madurai - Munnar - Kumily - Kottayam - Varkala - Kollam - Allepey
Arrive Chennai airport, bus to M'palam (1-2 nights)
Bus to Pondicherry (2nights), DT to Gingee
Train Pondi to Chindabaram (only 1 night needed to see temple)
Train Chindabaram to Tanjore (stay a couple days, more to visit Kumbakoram, more
temples)
Train Tanjore to Trichy (1 day to visit rock temple and SriRangam temple)
Train Trichy to Madurai (couple nights for palace, temple)

...
21. Varkala: AM bus/train to Kollam (30-45 min). Arrive Kollam, check into hotel
. Do 14:00 DTPC Munroe Island Backwater Canal Cruise.
22. Kollam: Public canal ferry (8h) Kollam to Allepey. OR Tourist Day Cruise (st
ops @ Ama's ashram - find out more info)
23. Ashram
24. Ashram: Continue to Allepey. Find homestay, settle in.
25. Allepey - Tourist day cruise or interior canal cruise. If time, Allepey beac
h (maybe beached out!). Sunset.
26. Allepey - ferry to backwater island for exploring.

TRANSPORTATION: Book train tix @ www.cleartrip.com/ - try for 2AC seats, otherw
ise 3AC seats. Pre-book your first train, then can judge if you want to go cheap
er/more expensive. Be familiar with 'waitlist' and 'taktal' (see seat61). Worth
buying "Trains at a Glance" (a few Rs) at any Indian train sta. Expect delays an
d changes. Always dbl check car and platform #. Note: Do not take 3rd class trai
ns (cars filled to 4-5x capacity). | In Tamil Nadu, buses are most efficient.
GETTING THERE - BY AIR (BOM): If arriving late: (1) Pre-pay taxi (from gov't boo
th in airport) to take you to Colaba (backpacker central, kind of seedy), ~Rs350
. OR (2) Talk to others at arrivals about sharing a taxi.
GETTING THERE - BY TRAIN: Maybe faster/less hassle taking Rajdhani Express sleep
er train from Delhi to Mumbai (1700-0835). Book @ www.irctc.co.in, print tix, re
ady to go. One of most modern trains in India, AC, meals incl.
MONEY & COSTS (US$1 = INR45): Low-budget ~Rs1000/day ($21); (Rs300-500, $8-10 on
room). Some report $15/day ($100/wk), sharing accom with a friend. Travel slowe
r = cheaper. Mumbai (and big cities) more costly.
CLIMATE: January is great for S: days cool/warm; cold @ night at altitude (hill
stations such as Kodaikanal, Munnar, Ooty). Cold, foggy in N (not good to travel
in N til after Jan 20; lots of fog). February is great for N & S: warming up ex
cept at altitude; South is warm/hot @ day, cool/cold @ night except on coast (wa
rm/hot @ night).
TIPS:
take darning needle with you so that you can poke holes in the shower heads and
get the water flowing a bit.
buy a salwar kameez (long shirt + trousers) instead of saris - easier for travel
ing
Keen sandals need washing w/antibacterial, but otherwise a solid shoe choice. Cr
acked heels a big problem b/c of heat/dryness; buy a pumice stone and Lichensa c
ream (pharmacy OTC, orange box, has lanolin) for Rs50. Put it on at night, wear
cotton socks to bed. In AM use pumic stone.
If time, always change a slightly higher note when buying an item. Save your cha
nge for bus/taxi drivers.
IMO Upper Berth sleepers best; can chain backpack to ring under lower berths (ge
t to station early before spaces used up). Then you're free to nap w/o having to
wait for lower berths to recline seats. | Tip: sleeper class trains can get v c
old at night; need a blanket
YOGA & ASHRAMS
Yoga Gypsys, Ashwem Beach, Goa; Shri Kali in Goa
Amma's ashram in Amritapuri, Kerala amritapuri.orgSivananda Yoga Ashram in Neyya
r, Kerala - sivanada.org.
Atha Yogashala Yoga Retreats, Agonda, S Goa, kinda pricey: http://www.athayogash
ala.in
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
TAMIL NADU (LP p932-1011)
Visit the many temple cities: Mahabalipuram, Madurai, Thanjavur, Trichy. All hav
e very old grand temples with fascinating architecture. The art and crafts are a
lso very interesting (silk clothes, embroidery, traditional paintings, stone scu
lptures). Many of these are UNESCO world heritage sites. The food is delicious (
in my opinion).
Plenty of beaches to see and enjoy, though TN and E Coast are very conservative,
so the beaches there are not touristy compared to Goa & Kerala beaches. Very fe
w tourists come here for sunbathing.
CHENNAI (skip; transit only)
Beach, temples, museums and galleries, old Portuguese style churches, and amusem
ent parks. But sprawling, boring. Lots of homeless & stray dogs. Better to catch
transport directly from airport to Mamallapuram
MAMALLAPURAM (MAHABALIPURAM) (2-3)
Transport: New deluxe bus from/near airport to Mamallapuram (?) Or take taxi (?)
Highlights: UNESCO world heritage site (a centuries-old beautiful temple). Best
beach on E coast, backpacker scene. Spencer Plaza (big mall) has Indian-style cl
othing.
Eats: Ananda Bhavan (A2B) Deluxe Thali, best Indian food in India... (mysecretp
lanet.com)
Sleep: Siva GH, 2 Othavadi Cross Street, tel 603 104 -0091 9444284134. www.ulyss
evoyages.com
PONDICHERRY (PUDUCHERRY) (2-3)
Transport: 3h from Chennai.
Highlights: Old French colonial city situated by the sea. Laid-back atmosphere,
kind of a Mediterranean vibe. Nice beaches, also (sub for Goa?),
DT: Auroville (20-30min by car), an interesting cosmopolitan community (many exp
ats, quite a spiritual reputation, hippy-ish). Worth a visit or maybe a stay. Ma
trimandir (interesting temple).
Sleep: International GH, 3km from rail, 4km from bus stand. Rs170 single no AC.
THANJAVUR (TANJORE)
Site of very interesting and ancient temple, Brihadishwara - a must-see; well-te
nded grounds, pillared halls, shrines (Rs70 for tuktuk from bus terminal). Also,
 royal Palace (Rs50 entry), has museum, bell tower (120 steps, great views over
city); paintings, silk & embroidery | temples and thalis
Sleep: Cheap hotels concentrated around bus stand in all cities; you can find a
place for Rs300/night.
Eats: Great lunch thali at Hotel Archuna, about halfway between the old bus stan
d and the Royal Palace. Rs35.
Transport: 1.5h by bus to/from Trichy, Rs20 non-AC, from new bus sta.
TRICHY (1)
Mixed reviews. Some say just a transit town. Others said it's a bustling city wi
th 2 awesome temples worthy of a day of your time. Could DT to Thanjavur from he
re. Sights:
Rock Fort - took the bus from the main tourist backpack area. Walk from the main
road to a very commercial road full of stores (hardly saw other foreigners) the
n from a market, you turn left and go up a hill, pay the entrance fee on your wa
y up. The sprawling view of Trichy below is amazing, you see the sinuous river a
nd the very green vegetation, the towering temples all over the spread.
St. Joseph's Cathedral, just beside the main road. Beautiful church. Jesuit's co
llege and park grounds in the vicinity.
Sri Ranganathaswany - a set of towering temple arches, stretching 1km, lead to a
Hindu temple w/7 concentric walled sections.
Sri Jambukeshwara Temple is exactly as what LP said it would be. It's smaller th
an the former, but a "temple of calm and serenity", dedicated to Shiva and Parva
ti. The interiors are beautiful though a bit dark, which actually made dramatic
photos. Non-Hindus can visit compound but not inner sanctum. Can visit via bus,
no tuktuk needed.||
Sleep: Hotel Aanand, Rs220 single no AC, 1/2km, near central bus stand. No. 1, V
.O.C. Street, tel 0431 - 2415545, e-mail: hotelaanand@hotmail.com | Ashby Hotel,
Rs400 single no AC, noisy location, nice but untidy garden, unfriendly staff, c
lose to bus stand, 17-A, Junction Road, tel 0431 - 2460652, 2460653, e-mail: chi
noor@yahoo.com, www.ashbyhotel.com
MADURAI (temples + history)
The Shri Meenakshi temple complex is a veritable small town, complete with marke
ts and bazaars as well as the shrines themselves. The many tall gopurams are cov
ered in statues painted in a crazy variety of bright colours. Over the top but q
uite the sight. And there's a very friendly elephant. | Many listed as a highlig
ht of India. But DON'T buy Rs50 entrance ticket to inner temple; only Hindus can
enter.
Other sights: Tirumalai Nayak - an Indosaracenic Palace (Rs80 entry+camera); bea
utiful! Gandhi Memorial Museum.
Sleep: TM Lodge, Rs340, just down the main tourist street from the Chantoor, Sup
reme, et al. Caters to Indian businessmen, exc svc, clean rooms, some w/western
toilet and cable TV.
Transport: bus to/from Trichy, 3h, Rs35
. . . . .
KERALA (p878-931)
MUNNAR (2)
Transport: 5.5h from Kochi by bus, 4.5h from Kumily by bus. Can also be reached
by bus from Madurai (6h); stunning views.
Stunning green hills surrounding a scruffy town, very picturesque. Tea plantatio
ns, Top Station (1600m) lookout post (most popular excursion from Munnar; best v
iews early AM before mist builds up), an immensely pretty hill station w/an eye
pleasing landscape. Climate much cooler than other parts of Kerala, temps 10C in
winter, thus ideal for hiking. Take warm clothes and rain gear.
You can indulge in some walking and short hikes. Take rickshaw up to Murayoor. T
ata Tea Museum shows tea making process. Waterfalls such as Attukal. Top Station
, or Kolukkumulai Estate (great alternative to Top Station, even more incredible
scenery; officially India's highest tea plantation at 2400m, reached only by je
ep).
Sleep: Mr Iypes Zena Cottages, watch the millions of fire flies in the tea plant
ation at night | Kappallil Resort (close to Munnar town but set in lovely garden
s away from the hustle). | Green View Inn GH, Rs250-450, located in quiet part o
f town away from noise of city ctr. Cheap motorbikes from Rs250/day, can organiz
e treks. TV, hot water, some balconies, fast internet. greenview_munnar@sify.com
, tel 04865 230 940
KUMILY | PERIYAR TIGER RESERVE (2)
Transport: 3-4h from Munnar, 4h from Kottayam, 6h from Kochi.
Periyar is located in the Cardamom Hills in the Western Ghats (mtns), temps cool
er, 15-30 C, bring warm/rainproof clothes. Tiger Reserve is the most popular wil
dlife viewing destination in Kerala. Take a day-trek forest safari (tiger sighti
ngs extremely rare, though elephants, monkeys, boars, deer, and birdlife). Dry s
eason (Dec-Apr) best time for viewing animals.
Kumily: Nearest village to Periyar (a few km N of sanctuary); makes a good base.
(Thekkady is the name used for either the entire area of Kumily + Periyar, or t
he park entrance.) Try boating on Periyar Lake (overpriced @ Rs450/hr, best chan
ce for viewing animals is 0700 trip), then spice plantation tour (LP-recommended
Highrange Spices v disappointing. Tried Connemara instead. From Kumily, take an
y bus going to Kotayam and ask for Connemara plantation.) Check out the spice ma
rket in the evening. You can also arrange visits to tea plantations/factories, a
nd elephant rides.
Eats: Jungle Cafe has great dosa and uttappam for bkfst.
Sleep: Stay on the edge of town where it's quieter and you have views into the f
orest, but still walking distance to shops/eateries. Meadow View Inn has great v
iews from simple stilted huts; located near Coffee Inn on Thekkady Rd. |
Bamboo Village, so nice, so quiet | Top Hotel: Chrissie's Hotel, Kumily, Rs1600
($35). Lovely garden at back; on a quiet street off main road, yet central to to
wn. Large rooms, balcony w/fantastic views of forest (monkeys - beware leaving t
hings on balcony!), rooftop restaurant. http://www.chrissies.in/
KOTTAYAM
(see Alleppey) | Bird sanctuary Kumarakom is near here; you can walk or take a b
oat ride to spot cormorants, herons, egrets and storks.
VARKALA (KERALA BEACH, 2)
Highlights: beautiful beach (less commercialized than Kovalam), not to be missed
. A great vibe, locals and vendors not pushy, lots of backpackers. Views strolli
ng along the cliffs is beautiful; spectacular sunset over the Arabian Sea. Beach
here much nicer than Kovalam.
Eats: Lots of great fresh fish. Sea Queen restaurant best value.
Sleep: Take a rickshaw to the helipad, as suggested in LP, then walk around on t
he cliff and check out the GHs in person. | Varkala GH, 10min walk from beach, R
s220 $5. Well-kept secret. Nearby Sreepadman Restaurant has good food.
BACKWATERS
Do this place justice by taking the time to soak up the luxuriously slow pace of
life, and really get to know the people and culture. Ways to experience the Ker
ala Backwaters:
*Houseboats - *Highlight of India*: Expect to pay Rs5-6000+ for 1-bd overnight h
ouseboat w/AC. Allepey-Allepey is standard, but Allepey-Kumarakom (1-night) is m
ore scenic, ideal. 2 nights Allepey-Thottapally or Allepey-Akumadave. Most say 1
night on the boat is enough. Make sure to inspect boat, don't let them rush you
(meet boats @ finish line, ~10am, as they're letting off patrons). Cruise inclu
des meals, water. Don't forget repellent, mozzie net (check quality on boat). So
me say houseboat is overrated, particularly if your fantasy involves nonmotorize
d solitary tranquility (dozens of boats chugging along beside you). For booking:
 ask at Kerala Tourist Bureau. ATDC (Alleppey Tourist Dev Co-op) deals only in n
on-motorized boats (sadly, not not the norm), recommended. During busy season (
Dec-Jan), govt restricts # of houseboats, so best to book ahead, though try not
to pay full deposit! Ask to stop @ local villages/markets along the way to obser
ve activities, shop (can buy tiger prawns amazingly cheap and boat staff will co
ok it up for you). Don't miss waking up to sunrise on the lake, magical!
*Canoe Trip: From Kollam, arrange a canoe trip to Munroe Island (easily booked t
hrough DTPC tourist info center, by the jetty/bus station next to Ashtumadi Lake
). 1/2-day tour Rs300/pp ($6). Good value. Starts with 1h rickshaw journey (incl
) thru rural landscape on outskirts of Kollam, to backwater village where you me
et boat (traditional wooden canoe). Propelled by punting w/long bamboo pole thru
tiny canals & rivers; v peaceful among green coconut palms, blue kingfishers, s
till waters. Have a chance to see village life up close (sand collecting for mak
ing cement; fishing from canoes; prawn farming; keeping cows and goats). Explore
a village on foot, see/taste locally grown spices (far less commercial than a v
isit to a spice farm).
*Homestay: some of the finest home-cooked food in India, a chance to meet the lo
cals. Recommended for sociable travellers with more time who want the full backw
aters experience. Budget options available. See Allepey.
*Public Ferry Canal Backwater Trip: cheap (Rs25), untouristy; witness many of th
e same sights as on a houseboat, have an opportunity to meet the locals. Route K
ollam-Allepey. Interesting, may be crowded w/backpackers, not the same feeling a
s overnight on the boat, but a good first intro to the backwaters.
*Tourist Day Cruise: most popular is an 8h trip from Kollam-Allepey (or vv). Inc
ludes stops for lunch, chai, temple visit, and kathakali demo. Visitors can be d
ropped off at Amrithanandamayi Mission (Amma); you can stay at the ashram and pi
ck up an onward or rtn cruise a day or two later.
KOLLAM (QUILON)
Typical small market town in Kerala. By most accounts worth avoiding, with few t
raveler-oriented businesses and a strange vibe toward tourists.
Excellent feedback on canoe trip to Munroe Island (see Backwaters, above). Also,
can take public ferry on canals from here to Allepey.
Sleep: Govt GH, Rs400, sparsely furnished, with AC but no hot water, facing gard
ens, 3km from town.
ALLEPEY (2)
Plan to stay here 2-3 nights after taking a canoe in Kollam and public ferry tri
p to Allepey. Day 1, arrange a tourist day cruise or interior canal cruise in s
mall "country boat" (aka canoe) Rs300/hr, go through small backwaters (which hou
seboats can't ply), gives a good view of real village life, esp great for photog
raphers. Can check out the beach side of Allepey, 10-15 min by taxi from backwat
er area; spend a few hrs at beach. Have a nice cold drink @ Raheem Residency. Or
take a ferry to a backwater island such as Chennamkary (see below) and walk in
the village.
Homestays highly recommended here. Reserve 2 nights; can be had for $20-50, some
w/AC, waterfront rooms with veranda, meals extra but cheap, houseboats cruising
by).
Malayalam Lake Resort: On the Allepey side of the lake (@ Nehru Trophy Starting
Point), clean, cheap (Rs1000-1200) & a fantastic location on one of the main can
als. Down-to-earth, village life feel, stunning setting, rooms right in front of
water. Family run, Jose is a kind, charismatic owner. Homemade dinners (delicio
us!) served by candlelight; smallish portions. Great reviews. Home +91-477 22345
91, Mobile +91-9447 505567 (add 0 if calling w/in India). Ask for Rose or Jose
(Thomas' English not good). Need rickshaw from bus/train sta, as it's a bit out
of town. Many said this was highlight of their stay in India. A typical evening
was spent sitting on the veranda of our hut, having a sundowner watching the wor
ld sail by whilst listening to all the wildlife and watching the kingfishers swo
op to catch fish. www.alleppeyhomestays.com/malayalam-lake-resort.htmlHomestay @
Community Greenpalm Homes (aka Thomas's Homestay), located on peaceful backwate
r island of Chennamkary, 10km from Allepey (but feels a world away; rice paddies
, rivers, canals, no cars or roads). Arriving: public ferry (1h), or take a taxi
from Alleppey sta (Rs400) then short canoe trip across the river. Don't miss su
nset canoe ride to local toddy shop. Early morning or evening village walks (to
avoid heat), ranging 1-3h, including 0630 bird watching walk. Rooms are comfy, f
an or AC, attached bath. Communal eating for guests in kitchen, also veranda for
relaxing. Costs Rs2220-4000 ($$$) dbl w/fan + 3 meals. 3 nights recommended, ti
me to take part in a range of activities (Rs100-300pp). email: community.greenpa
lms@gmail.com or greenpalmhome@gmail.com.
Sleep: Hotel Palmy Residency, perfect. | Dazzle Dew GH, also have houseboats.
Sleep: Ashtamudi Home Stay, rooms Rs150-500. Fantastic mgmt (Chan), went above a
nd beyond call of duty.
KOCHI / COCHIN (history, great atmosphere, 2)
Transport: Kerala-Goa via Konkan Railways is very nice, it runs along the coast
Highlights: A pretty capital/small island, Portuguese-Dutch colonial origins, fa
mous Chinese Fishing Nets, spice markets. Laid back, walkable town. Lots of hote
ls and good restaurants. Walk through the temples in the Jewish district. More t
ouristy, dinners in Rs100+ range, beer hard to find. Homestay possible, also coo
king classes. | No beaches here, but a short ferry ride to Vypeen Island w/great
beaches; try Cherai Beach. | A fine Kathakali performance at the Kerala Kathaka
li Centre, nightly 1830 (but 1730 you can watch them put on makeup/costume), Rs1
50. | Mattancherry -- what is it?
DT to Kodanad Elephant Training Center - popular, 50km away, arrange through tou
rist office or hire a taxi. If you arrive by 0800 you can help wash elephants, h
ave elephant ride.
Sleep: Costa Gama Homestay recommended, located outside tourist area (residentia
l), v clean. Owner Benson wonderful.
Sleep: Spencer Home, negotiated down to Rs800. Court-yard facing AC rooms are s
maller, more expensive, and tend to be hotter. | Saas Tower Hotel, Rs275 single
no AC. 1km from KSRTC Ernakulam bus stand. Cannon Shed Road, tel 0484 - 2365319,
2365322 | *Durbar Residency, Rs275 single no AC. Internet, clean, good restaura
nts nearby. Good location, heart of Ernakulam. Great value. D.H. Rd, Jos Junctio
n, tel 0484 - 2376582. |
Eat: Febina, on Amaravathi Rd corner Thamaraparambu -- soo good!
. . . . . . .
KARNATAKA (p802-854)
MANGALORE
some decent beaches. DT Bekal fort
Sleep: Hotel Green Park, 1/2km from Tiger Circle bus stand. Rs275 single no AC.
tel 0820 - 2570561/ 62, 2570851 | Hotel Srinivas, Rs450 single no AC, clean, gre
at veg restaurant, 1km from rail, 0km from bus stand. tel 0824 - 2440061 (10 lin
es), e-mail: asrao@sancharnet.in
MYSORE (culture, history)
lovely palaces, museums, and gardens -- though agressive vendors, taxi drivers,
drug dealers...
Eats: LP fairly accurate
Sleep: Hotel Goverdahn, Rs200-400, varying sizes and amenities, room svc adequat
e, mgmt fair. | Dasaprakash, Rs275+ single, 1km from rail, 1/2km from bus stand,
grimy but has great restaurant w/cheap thalis, good laundry svc, easy walk to b
azaar. Gandhi Square, tel 0821 - 2442444, 2444455, 2442821. mysoredasaprakash@ai
rtelbroadband.in, www.mysoredasaprakashgroup.com
BANGALORE (nightlife)
City sights kind of run-down, incl the Lalbagh & Cubbon Parak, B'lore Palace. So
ulless urban life (booming IT industry here), terrible traffic and pollution...
good food (though $$). Good nightlife; do DTs to outlying areas. | Shopping: UB
City, mall w/Italian ambience & designer brands, on Vitthal Mallya Rd.
visit Mysore and Belur/Halebit on DT
Sleep: Pamp Hotel Bangalore, 4km from rail/bus stas. Rs200 single no AC. #23 IIn
d Cross, Journalist Colony, Opposite JC Rd, behind Car Automobiles, tel 080-2670
9753 | Anand Bhavan Lodging, Rs175 single no AC, 3km from railway, tel 080 - 228
74313
HAMPI (temples) (2-4)
Synopsis: A stunning place with the ruins of an enormous city surrounded by rock
y (almost martian-like) hills with lush fields in the valleys. A peaceful and ma
gical place. A highlight of the South. Don't miss it. Rent bikes to visit the ar
ea.
Day 1: Walking. Virupaksha Temple (register w/polic). Matunga Hill (great view,
path up from W, descend from E). Sule Bazaar. Achyutaraya Temple. Walk back to H
ampi Bazaar along riverside track. Hemakuta Hill. Krishna Temple. Badavi Linga.
Ugra Narasimha.
Day 2: Cycling. Royal Centre (Rs250 ticket incl Vittala temple same day). Pushka
rani. Queen s Bath. Beema s Gate. Vittala Temple. King s Balance. Rtn Hampi Bazaar alo
ng riverside track.
Day 3: Cycling. Cross river (*ferry Rs10). Turn L/W in village on other bank, fo
llow dusty road 1km past GHs to paved road. Turn R on paved rd 2-3 kms to Monkey
Temple. When on top of Monkey temple hill, walk over rocks to west of temple fo
r great views and solitude. Monkeys will steal food from your hands take care. T
here s also a lake and waterfall to explore.
Sunrise @ (1) Matanga Hill (opposite Virupaksha temple), good b/c near main area
& you have some light to tackle uphill trek; exc view of Suli Bazaar. Also (2)
Hanuman temple (opposite side of TB and Malyavanta. And (3) Sunset @ Raghunathas
wamy - best views as all 3 are located on hilltops. | Betw 0745-0815 the holy el
ephant takes a bath in the river behind Virupaksha Temple, a nice scene.
Badami area sites (Badami caves, Pattadakal, Aihole, and Mahakuta) fairly close
to Hampi. Like Ajanta, Ellora, and Hampi, they are world-class sites, historical
, w/masterpieces of Indian art. | Or check out nearby village Anegundi.
Sleep: Stay in accom on opposite side of the river to the town, in Virupapur Gad
di area (cheapest); amazing landscape, but need to take a boat to/from Hampi, Rs
10 (4/hr, but stops @ sunset so can't linger in Hampi after dark). Best Shanthi,
across river on SW end of town, a long walk to end of road. | Mowgli GH, from d
orm Rs50 to private cottage, Rs250-400, good food (woodfired pizzas!), beer, vie
ws, ambience, scooter hire Rs150/day, internet. | Sudha GH (Rs250, $5) by trash
field (but not smelly), nice owners. | Mango Tree GH nice setup, good view of
river, crowded. | Shambhu & Gopi good GH.
Eat: Mango Tree | drink yummy sugarcane juice | Best value - 2 thali restaurants
on S side of Hampi Bazaar, 40m down from bus station opposite Geeta restaurant.
Rs15 generous thali incl curd, Rs7 coffee. Super cheap!!
Transport: Train is best option, v scenic ride, esp when it slows @ Dudshagar Fa
lls. Sleeper Rs170. Be careful w/buses, many scams on tix/bookings. Best to book
@ sta, not GH. | Goa--Hampi bus (12h) or train (preferred; leaves from Vasco da
Gama sta). From B'lore, train Rs200 2nd class sleeper, stops in Hospet, from wh
ere you can walk to bus depot or take rickshaw (Rs10). From here, buses to Hampi
are frequent and cheap (or talk the rickshaw driver down to Rs60).
GOKARNA
A real town with shops, services, and amenities (unlike many S Indian beach town
s, such as Palolem, where you must travel to the nearest town to buy fresh fruit
). Lovely beaches: Kudle, Om Beach (can be reached bia a long, hilly walk or Rs1
00 rickshaw, or Rs50 boat), Cuddie (closer), and Paradise Beach. Quiet and peace
ful places with stunning natural beauty.
Transport: Train Gokarna-Canacona sta (near Palolem), 1.5h
Sleep: Kamat Lodge, Rs200, small but solid and clean, quiet rooms face the back
Eats: Sea Green Cafe, excellent fish sizzlers, Rs80.
. . . . . . .
GOA
Highlights of India*: Explore the cathedrals of Old Goa, beach-hopping and full-
moon parties.
Transport: 12h by rain from Bombay. Or check flights (www.goair.com is cheapest
for BOM-GOA route; other is www.airdeccan.net, or www.spicejet.com). Volvo buses
run every day from Goa to Mumbai (overnight); comfortable (sleeper berths) and
pleasant, crossing through some scenic mountain towns like Lonavala. Coming from
Kerala, there is convenient rail/bus connections as well.
To Do: Visit the old Portuguese churches, ramble in streets of Panaji.
BEACHES (Note: Kerala beaches are much cleaner, less crowded than Goa's):
N Beaches are Bangha, Anjuna (market is worth a visit), Calangute (N beaches). P
acked, overtouristed, party scenes, often dirty -- give them a miss.
Beaches worth visiting: Palolem, Colva (upscale).
Warning: Beach huts have almost zero security; do NOT leave your valuables in yo
ur hut.
http://www.goabeachhuts.com/index.htm
PALOLEM - *PATNEM - *AGONDA
Used to be quiet, but Palolem IS definitely overcrowded and getting nastier by t
he year. Supposedly great Thai food here. You can walk S to some of the other be
aches; round 3 rocky coves/headlands and then you'll come to an unspoilt beach.
If you can get to Green Island, try climbing the boulders!
Sleep: Further from the beach, you can find stone cottages with attached bath, s
ea view. Look @ S end of beach, about 50m inland, towards Patnem, ~Rs350/night.
| Ciaran's Huts on Palolem is my favourite.
Sleep: Oceanic Hotel, run by British couple, has pool, 5min rickshaw ride from P
alolem beach. | D'Mello's, on the main road in Palolem, opposite the Cuba bar/re
staurant. Basic ensuite, balcony, Rs300.
*PATNEM
(just S of Palolem) recommended over Palolem (more space, more laidback, though
beach just as good). A good balance between now-hectic Palolem and still-perhaps
-too-quiet Agonda.
Huts with fans and western toilets are decent; plenty of food. | Sleep: Tantra,
Seaview. | River View Hotel, non-AC Rs800, nice, clean, safe, friendly staff, ga
rden, good restaurant.
*AGONDA
(just N of Palolem) - the "quietest and most beautiful" (2km) beach, unspoilt, p
eaceful, v few tourists, lots of beach facing huts, less expensive than Patnem o
r Palolem.. Very chilled.. Palolem is only :10 ride away.
Eat: Sandy Feet bar/cafe
Sleep: Shanti GH.
CALANGUE (N GOA)
If you head towards the beach and turn L, lots of nice, quiet, cheap, clean GHs
along the track behind the beach. Far enough away from main town area, yet peace
ful. Handy for transport to other destinations (whereas Palolem, etc are quite f
are away from everything).
PANAJI (N GOA)
A nice place to relax; good public transport, hop buses to the beach or explore
Old Goa; a nice retreat from the "real India" (Portuguese-built town). Sleep: Pa
najim Inn, Latin Quarter where most Westerners stay. | Ria Residency, Rs700. | A
fonso GH in Panjim, rest. behind GH is exc.
. . . . . . .
MAHARASHTRA (LP p720-758)
MUMBAI (LP p689-719) - (2-3)
Expensive, not so interesting; a hassle to book bus/train tix out of the city, s
ometimes better just to fly (try Kingfisher or SpiceJet).
To Do: If only 1 day: visit Gateway to India (overrated?), take ferry (nice trip
!) to Elephanta Caves (be careful w/monkeys), visit hanging gardens, aquarium. |
Walk from Worli Seaface area (yummy Aarey Lassi here!) to Haji Ali Mosque. Also,
Mumbadevi temple, next to gold mkt, is neat. Baganga Tank (middle of city) neig
hborhood v cool, tons of small temples and shops encircling the pond. |
Walk from Colaba away from city central, through old fishing village (original B
OM). Walk along Marine Dr to Chowpatty Beach (ok) - great food (pao bhaji). |
DT to Lonavla/Khandala, along seashore - nice place to take a break. Or catch a
bus to Breach Candy and walk around for 1/2-day. Take a rickshaw to Bandra Bands
tand for sunset watching, coffee (many cafes in the area). | On a Sunday, go to
the oval maidens (locals playing cricket) |
Sleep: Try Indian GH (rooms $6), better than Salvation Army GH ($4, run-down, bu
t can wake up night watchman and get a bed; be prepared, it's grimy).
Sleep: Bentley's Hotel, on Marine Drive (5min walk from Nariman Rd, which crosse
s Colaba - total 10min walk from hotel to Colaba central), in a more residental
area. looks like apt bldg, top floor. Listed in Rough Guide. Has security guard,
24h checkin. Best deal in town for room w/ocean view ($12/incl bkfst).
Sleep: Hotel Lawrence, Rs 700 ($15), quiet, clean, v nice ppl.
Transport: Hampi --> Mumbai: Bus to Bijapur (5h); bus to Mumbai (10h) -- see www
.vrllogistics.com for bus svc info (Hospet-Bijapur, Bijapur-Mumbai)
AURANGABAD / ELLORA / AJANTA (3)
Caves ~300km from Mumbai. Similar in scale to Petra, not as well marketed. Massi
ve series of Jain, Buddhist, and Hindu temples carved out of a solid rock cliff
face, amazing.
Ellora & Ajanta are completely different: Ellora peaceful, def worth seeing, not
as commercialized. Ajanta has impressive paintings, but v commercial; most of c
aves are lighted and have some climate control.
Logistics: Overnight train from Aurangabad (7.5h, arrives 0500), check into hote
l and book tour for Ajanta (leaves 0930). Book through ITDC (Indian Tourism Dept
Corp). Day 2 tour 0930 to Ellora and other side trips (rushed, only ~1h at cave
s plus other less interesting stops... unless pay extra to hire a car; if doing
this, visit Dalautabad Fort for 1-3h on the return.) | Someone said no need to b
ook tour; can do independently via bus/train (Ellora easier, ask for Ellora bus
@ sta). For Ajanta, bus/train first to Jalgaon (?)
Sleep: Hotel Panchavati, Rs400, Padampura, Station Road, tel (0)0240-2328755, 23
38124. Good budget hotel, clean. | Hotel Raviraj Aurangabad, Rs525 single, no AC
. 1.5km from rail sta, 1km from bus sta.
..............................
WEBSITES & OTHER HELPS
youtube videos in india (mostly North): http://www.lonelyplanet.com/thorntree/th
read.jspa?threadID=1921602
blog: http://www.mumbainomad.blogspot.com/
Tamil Nadu (blog): http://2albatrosses.blogspot.com/search/label/India%20-%20Tam
il%20Nadu
health - malaria: http://www.mysecretplanet.com/Malaria
http://www.exploreruralindia.org/
http://www.maharashtratourism.gov.in/index/index.aspx- Maharashtra
http://goa-tourism.com/- goa
http://www.karnatakatourism.org/- Karnataka
http://www.keralatourism.org/- Kerala
http://www.mysecretplanet.com/How-to-plan-a-trip-to-India
More abt Palolem Beach - http://www.omsaipalolem.com/
Beachside huts in Goa - http://www.goabeachhuts.com/palolem.htm||
..............................
NEXT TIME:
HYDERABAD: Old city, Golkunda Fort (well worth Rs100), Tombs of Qutb Tahi (Rs20)
, and bazaar streets interesting (but don't open til 11am). Charminar not worth
entry fee, more photogenic on outside. Sleep: Hotel Suhail, Rs175, excellent val
ue, large rm, priv bath, helpful, hot water. 24h checkin. | Eats: H'bad known fo
r good food. Hotel Natraj, exc value meals. R19 enormous thali and other dishes.

RAMESHWARAM: worth a couple nights; hike a bike to visit Adams Bridge. Overnight
train to Kanyakumari.
KANYAKUMARI: extreme S tip of India, where Bay of Bengal, Indian Ocean, and Arab
ian Sea meet. Come for a full moon night. (A couple hrs N on the Coromandel Coas
t, Tiruchendur is a major pilgrimage town by the sea, v few Westerners). *Highli
ght* Standing on the tip of India and seeing merging of the oceans at sunset
TRIVANDRUM: Worth a stop if passing through. Zoo NOT worth a look. | Transport:
To airport, take bus from East Fort bus sta, ~30min ride. | Sleep: Princess Inn,
Rs516, good value. Can visit (nearby?) Kovalam, Neyyar Dam.
KOVALAM (KERALA BEACH): Stunning beach (most popular in Kerala), though overdeve
loped. | *Was* beautiful but now in shambles; mismanagement catching up. Package
tourist mecca; give it a miss.
KERALA - WAYANAD: wildlife and sanctuary tours; quieter than Periyar, great pla
ce to spot elephants in the wild. Beautiful area w/rice paddies, grasslands, spi
ce & tea plantations, mountains. Peaceful hill retreat w/magnificent views and h
ikes, w/o Munnar's crowds. 2 wildlife sanctuaries: Muthanga & Tholpetty (one of
best parks in S India for elephants). Can base in Kalpetta or quieter hill stati
ons of Vythiri or Lakkidi. Sights include plantations, waterfalls, caves, Chembr
a Peak hike. Transport: Kalpetta is 2h bus from Kozhikode (Calicut) in N Kerala,
reachable also from Kannur, Ooty, and Mysore. | From Kannur, 2.5h bus to Manant
havady, nearest town to Tholpetty, then bus 0:45 to park entrance. Or, Mananthav
ady from Kalpetta, then bus to Ooty (4h) or Mysore (3h).
Sleep: Pachyderm Palace, basic GH in great location just outside sanctuary, deli
cious food. 2 safaris/day included: 2h jeep safari in morning or evening, 5h gui
ded hikes in AM.
COORG: low-key hill station. very pretty views and coffee estates, away from the
typical tourist's map.
OOTY: another beautiful hill station, but will still be v cold in Feb. Munnar is
lower elevation, more enjoyable in Feb. -- http://www.ooty.net/||
THRISSUR: Annual Puram Festival, biggest festival in Kerala, held in May, featur
es elephant processions, drum orchestras, lots of arts. Bus/train from Cochin in
a few hours.
GURUVAYUR: Bustling pilgrim town 25km from Thrissur, well-known for its temple (
one of richest and most important in Kerala). Largest festival is Ulsavam during
Feb/Mar; music/dance performances, elephant race and procession. Also see eleph
ants at Punnathur Kotta Elephant Sanctuary 3km away.
KODAIKANNAL: beautiful Hill Stations whih possess the gift of nature. Kodaikanna
l is called "The Queen of Hills," many beautiful spots like Pillar rock, Guna Ca
ves, Suicide Point. 4h from Madurai (by car); no tea plantations as in Munnar, b
ut spectacular views and great walks -- quite strenuous hike out to Dolphin Rock
 (and even to nearby hill-top village). http://www.kodai.com/
Transport: take "express" bus (4h, Rs50) from Maduri bus depot. Be prepared to d
o a lot of walking though town fairly compact (rickshaws banned). Pedal-boat rid
es on the lake are cheap.
Sleep: Greenlands Youth Hostel, best views on town, but worst mgmt. Dorm Rs150,
singles Rs300-500. In ill repair, will try to charge you a room deposit and for
extra blankets -- you will need them! Don't pay extra.
TIRUPATHI (Andra Pradesh): Enormous temple complex dedicated to Vishnu. Gopuram
(tower) covered in gold, non-Hindus allowed to enter (rare), beautiful spiritual
experience
PUNE: nice mix of big city + village; Osho Commune worth a visit, yoga & wellbei
ng courses. 3h from Mumbai.