Random Notes #2
Random Notes #2
"Ye suffer fools gladly, seeing ye yourselves are wise." --St Paul
"Look, it's my misery that I have to paint this kind of painting, it's your misery that you
have to love it, and the price of the misery is thirteen hundred and fifty dollars. "
- Mark Rothko, In Art/Painting
Call 1-800-999-9999 for the Runaway Hotline. There are people on the other end of
that phone that will help you: they’ll find you a safe place to stay, they’ll help you with
any other problems you might have, from drugs to getting away from a pimp, and they’ll
get you back with your parents if that’s the right thing for you.
This is a great archive of Popular Science magazines. You may know all
about it, but I just stumbled on it. Some of the advertisements are interesting, plus of
course you can search for things you are interested in.
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<[Link]
A few badges for nerds.
If the chuck has a 1inch - 8TPI Penn State Industries has one for an 1 1/2 8TPI
adapter.
www. [Link]
PART # LA11218
Cost $19.95 +shipping.
The 4 inch drill press vise (Harbor Freight Item # 30999 - 9RPB at $4 to $7) is a
very useful item indeed. Another good general purpose vise is a (better yet) 6 inch drill
press vise. They are often put on sale at Harbor Freight – cheap! Watch their prices,
and be ready to move and make a grab at the price drop.
The most useful clamps made from 1/2 inch water pipe, and Harbor Freight -
work for clamping boards together, or holding art items. Just have different lengths of
pipe on hand.
There is a vise grip ‘device’ for clamping things down in a drill press. Harbor
Freight is one place it’s sold. To make such devices work on a ‘production table’ (table
with blind hold down slots) might require the use of t-slot bolts or similar.
Harbor Freight Table saw stand $ 20.00 #35716 - 1ADN as a work table.
Shallow bench stop ‘vise’ as a top.
PO box 14955
[Link]@[Link]
Phone: 1-270-754-2354
[Link]
[Link]
Use 3/8" 4 skip tooth band saw blade for doing heavy work.
Harbor Freight 14’ bandsaw – the band saw blade is 92 and 1/4 length
You need 3 band saw blades, 1/4 inch, 1/2 and 3/8 inch skip tooth
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[Link]
[Link]
A bottle can last months, and my friend says she's has hers for a couple of
years. You don't have to wear gloves (But I would anyway), and it doesn't affect your
lungs like Armour Etch. Hope that helps some of you!
Process Engineering Corp., Crystal Lake, Ill. 60039 - 0279 (815) 459 - 1734
Makes a graphite stick lubricant that can be applied to the table of a belt sander.
Once again ...here is THE BEST site on the Internet for business advice specific
to artists.
[Link] .com/
Look under FAQ's, BOOKMARK it ...and USE IT ...before you need it.
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I have been using RexCut grinding wheels for aluminum. They don’t load up, are
available in a variety of grits, and, last I checked, were made in the USA.
[Link] com/
Try [Link]
these are organic and heirloom seeds.
If you are interested in e-publishing, you might want to check out EPIC
(Electronically Published Internet Connection).
[Link]
It's an organization for the benefit and support of e-published authors. LOTS of good
information there.
Boiled linseed oil ‘painted’ on cloth makes ‘oilcloth’, and painted (thinly!) directly
on wood is also a good (but slow curing) wood finish. Some people find that the boiled
oil by itself dries fast enough to be used directly.
A mix of 1/3 boiled linseed oil, 1/3 mineral spirits (paint thinner) and 1/3 of a
good quality floor varnish. (Warning: not all varnishes work in this mix – test first – it
may have been a problem mixing with my varnish. Test with a small amount first.)
Cutting dados is not possible on a band saw, but they can be done on a router.
Surplus Center is also a good source for parts. [Link] surpluscenter. com/home.
asp
Go to this web site below, there is a calculator for belts sizes, and many other
calculators for different things
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This page has an unusual planting/harvesting timetable, scroll to the bottom. It's for
Iowa so adjust for your frost dates.
[Link] /[Link]
This has some technical info on Vegetable Maturity Dates, Yields and Storage
requirements. From North Dakota.
[Link] [Link]/ pubs/plantsci/ hortcrop/ [Link]
[Link]
On Ebay, if the tool listing the brand name says ‘Other’, then read that as saying
’junk’! Really.
Shaker pegs =- 2 1/4 long – legs for doll chairs, or for everything ‘dollish’
You can locate a lot of people by using Directory Assistance on-line ... go to
[Link]
Semiconductor Companies
ATMEL
Manufacturer of Microcontrollers and EEPROM's, Main Website
AVR and ATMega Application Notes Applications Notes
AVR Studio for Writing and Compiling AVR Assembly Code plus other software AVR
Software Tools
ANALOG DEVICES
Manufacturer of specialized analog IC's and microcontrollersMain Website
Monthly Analogue Newsletter with Updates and Topics of interest. Analog Dialogue
Design Center with Application Notes and Datasheets Design Center
MAXIM
Manufacturer of linear IC's, Dallas Real Time Clocks and Microcontrollers Main
Website
Design Guides, Application Notes and DatasheetsDesign Library
Tutorials to help expand your knowledge and assist with your design Helpful Tutorials
MICROCHIP
Manufacturer of Microcontrollers and EEPROM's Main Website
Design Guides, Application Notes and Datasheets Design Center
Monthly eNewsletter containing the lastest release devices and design
notesMicrosolutions Newsletter
NATIONAL SEMICONDUCTOR
National's Design Guide is now online. Linear Designer's Guide
See Bob Pearse's Lecture on the web. Bob Pearse Lecture
Information Appliance's Update. Goto [Link]
PHILIPS
Manufacture of a wide range of IC's Semiconductor Website
Electronic Magazines
CIRCUIT CELLAR
Excellent Magazine for those interested in Microcontrollers and Embedded Solutions
Circuit Cellar
SILICON CHIP
For General Electronics and for some great practical kits to construct Silicon Chip
ELEKTOR ELECTRONICS
The new look Elecktor Magazine has a wide range of articles on both electronics and
microcontrollers Elektor Electronics
ELECTRONIC DESIGN
Magazine and Useful Articles. Goto Electronic Design
EDN
Trade Electronics Magazine for the professional, covers new technology and designs
EDN
NUTS & VOLTS
Magazine and Useful Articles. Goto Nuts and Volts
[Link]
===
I just started a book called "I hate people" by Jonathan Littman & Marc Hershon
In the beginning it says;
I find that ironic and exceptionally funny. I have to ask – are we importing rude
people?
Just wanted to share this site, it has good quality faux furs with a decent selection.
Shorter Fur
[Link]
Longer Fur
[Link]
Xanthan Gum
Often used by those with celiac or gluten allergies, xanthan gum is used in gluten free
baking and is available in powdered form the natural-foods section of your supermarket.
It adds a nice ‘sliminess’ to the finished product.
Special switch light covers A layout / ‘try box’ can be made from a metal wall plug
box and a switch, and 6-32 screws pointed to mark drill points on underside of cover.
[Link]
l
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Band saws range in throat capacity from 8" to 36", with either two or three wheels
for the blade. Blades for the home shop range from 1/8" to 1" wide, the narrow blades
are used to cut small radius curves, the wide blades are used for straight cuts such as
resawing.
A good quality (2 wheel!) band saw properly set up will become one of the most
used tools in your shop. Choose at least a 14" model if you plan to do much resawing,
the smaller models are, well, a bit too light.
Most would choose a band saw over a table saw if only one of them could be
had, they are so much more versatile. The only downside is that band saws require
more set up than any other tool in the shop, different operations require different blades,
each time a blade is changed the saw has to be ‘tuned’ to that particular blade. Many
shops eventually end up with a large machine for heavy work and a smaller machine
with a narrower blade for fine work.
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I use an electric baby bottle warmer to melt bees wax and add to it about 4 to 6
parts of a 50/50 mix of mineral and vegetable oils and stir well. It gives a good, all
purpose, paste wax. The warmer is the same one I use to melt hide glue. Crock pots
also work well for this.
Tips for turning wood: Pour your end-grain sealer into a clean, wide-mouth
clothes detergent bottle. The lid makes a handy dipping container for your brush and the
leftovers will drain back into the bottle when you recap the jug.
---
The ID (in) of a finger ring can be found from ID=0.032*R+0.458 where R is the
ring size, e.g., size 6 ring has an id of 0.65 in.
The major diameter of a numbered thread (e.g. 6-32) is given by
D=0.013*N+0.060 so a #6 has a major diameter of 0.138 in.
A rough way to calculate tap drill size (DRILL is much better) is to subtract the
pitch (in units of length/thread) from the nominal diameter:
1/4 (in) - 20 (tpi) => 1/4 (in) - 1/20 (ipt) = 0.2 in (#7 drill)
6 x 1 mm => 6 - 1 = 5 mm
Metric length conversions aren't difficult. The (Imperial) inch is defined as exactly
25.4 millimeters. Memorize that number.
John Pagett of Birmingham, UK sent along a clever way of converting fractional
inches to their metric equivalent. Keep doubling numerator and denominator until
the denominator is 256. Then the numerator divided by ten is the equivalent in
mm with an error of only 0.78%
13/64 = 26/128 = 52/256 -> 52/10 -> 5.2 mm (correct value = 5.159375 mm)
Steve Redmond points out that mm->in can be done approximately by multiplying
by 4 and dividing by 100.
30 mm * (4/100) =~ 1.2 in (correct value = 1.181)
Rule of thumb for milling cutters: depth of cut <= 0.5 * cutter diameter.
Stan Dornfeld sends along a handy relation he uses for calculating feeds when
drilling:
d = drill diameter (in)
r = spindle speed (rpm)
f = feed (in/min)
f = d * r / 30
Quick way to compute allowance for standard 118 deg. drill tip: multiply drill
diameter by 0.3
A one foot head of water exerts a pressure of 0.433 psi. A 2.309 feet head of
water exerts a pressure of one psi.
The flow (GPM = gallons/minute) from a horizontal pipe of (inside) diameter d (in)
can be estimated by measuring how far from horizontal the stream has dropped,
y (in), at a distance x (in) from the end of the pipe and using the formula GPM =
2.56 * x * d * d / sqrt(y).
Most people, when they make homemade signs, make the letters way too small.
A good rule of thumb is 2.5 to 3 inches of letter height for every 100 feet of
viewing distance.
Tap drill size for a thread-forming tap can be found from:
tap drill = OD - 0.0068*(DOT)/pitch
For example, with a 1/4-20 tap and a desired depth of thread of 65%, we have:
tap drill = 0.25 - 0.0068*65/20 = 0.228 in. (#1 drill)
The full series of BA (British Association) threads runs from N=0 to N=22. The
pitch of a given thread is given by P(mm)=(0.9)^N and its diameter is given by
D(mm)=6 * P^(1.2). All BA threads have a thread angle of 47.5 deg.
The volume of a pizza of thickness 'a' and radius 'z' is given by pi z z a.
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Woodworkers Resources
Due to the ever changing world of businesses, web sites, and phone numbers,
the information here is only as accurate as what is easily locatable at the time of this
writing. No guarantees to the accuracy of each item listed. This list has been compiled
to provide general access to information and services for hobbyist and professional
alike… Almost all have 800 or 888 numbers.
Tool Sharpening:
Glendale, AZ 85301
623-931-0633
1-800-594-7262
[Link]
CMT USA
888-268-2487
[Link]
800-822-0009
Cedarburg, WI 53012
[Link]
DML
800-626-1802
[Link]
800-733-7111
[Link]
800-523-8988
[Link]
Freud Inc.
[Link] (vendor)
800-472-7307
800-387-9723
[Link]
Jesada Tools
800-531-5559
[Link]
Onsrud Cutter
800-234-1560
[Link]
800-443-0992
[Link]
888-811-7269
[Link]
Kalona, IA 52247
[Link]
Suffolk Machinery
800-234-7297
[Link]
Systimatic Company
[Link]
800-426-0000
800-790-7980
[Link]
203-792-8622
[Link]
800-742-3869
[Link]
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Unfortunately they no longer make the weights for my scale, but you may find
they have what you need, since these scales are such precision instruments it seems to
me like a smart move to keep them that way by finding the weights that belong with it. I
keep an upside down aquarium over mine to maintain its dead-on accuracy. (a clever,
effective, low cost substitute for a glass case)
But take a look at electronic scales! They are low cost, effective, and fun to use!
I've bought two Deltas in the last couple years, one prior to and one after the
Black and Decker purchase, and the difference was easily noticed, just about all the
tools involved (porter cable/delta/bosch) went to crap after black and decker bought
them. I have a 12" deltamiter saw, bought a few years ago, and every time I'm in the
hardware stores I check out the toy shelves, and the last few deltas and PC's I played
with on the shelves had that cheap rumbling feel to the slides. Also, the new porter
cable circular saw is a real piece of SHIT, buy anything but Porter cable now, they
trashed the one thing that made the porter cable a GREAT saw the directional chute is
just a chip catcher now, what kind of a brain dead moron uses a 3/8 tube to direct
sawdust and chips, then has the true stupid genes show through by putting a right angle
bend in it and expects it to work right? The 'new' saw is designed wrong, it's useless
now, one hardware store up here has decided to quit selling porter cable because of it,
he said he sold ten saws and had nine come back the first week. (modern hardware,
kalamazoo ave GR mi.)
I bought one because my old pc got swiped, used it ONE DAY and the bearings
went out, swapped it, used that one two days and it started to smell like burned
insulation, swapped that one in and the depth wouldn't stay in position, so I took it in got
my money back and went chasing down all the 'low-volume' hardware stores till I found
one that still had the old style in stock, bought the display model.
I never liked Dewalt, too much for too little tool, their saws always sound like
they're working too hard, their cordless tools burn out too easily when used heavily (or
they did with the first two I had, they may have changed that, but since I'm already
turned off to dewalt, I'll never know first hand! strangely enough I still have and USE the
old Skill 12v that I bough the first dewalt to replace because the skill was getting too
OLD) their cordless saws always sound like they're spinning a bearing.
At present I own two delta miter saws, a delta table saw, delta planer, two porter
cable cordless drills, two PC cordless saws, two porter cable nailers, PC routers and
sanders,delta bench sander, and couple of Bosch hammer drills, the other tools are old,
spanning 1935 to 1960, unless Black and decker brings quality of the deltas/PC back up
I'll be buying hitachi tools when it's time to replace them I won't buy dewalt, I already
own a dewalt reciprocating saw, and while itworks fine, I have to file the tang on blades
unless I buy dewalt blades, because they get stuck hard enough that I have to
disassemblethe lock to get them back out(dewalt blades, drill bits, and driver bits are
useless, went through so many of their driver bits I could own stock, the carbide on their
sawblades is THINNER and lasts less than the carbide on cheaply harbor freight
blades.
I'd rather run ryobi than dewalt, and as much as I've been a fan of delta/porter
cable for YEARS, it's likely I won't buy any more deltas either, can't say about the bigger
tools, but have plenty of experience with the smaller tools, and won't buy dewalt.
---
Home Depot
Home Depot has new 12-1/2" Delta planer for $179. How cheap does a person want?
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Here are some links I found. The grinder was about $40, the tool rest about $30, and
the wheel about $20 I think.
Free plans for a sharpen wood chisels jig
[Link]
Some different ideas on the grinder, along with pics of the tool rest and white wheels
[Link]
Lee Valley page with Good pics of how the veritas rest works.
[Link]
5938&ccurrency=2&SID=
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<LawrenceSMITH@[Link]> wrote:
Marketing [finding people to buy your product] is at least 50% of the work in
doing a business, and is completely missing from his analysis. One of the many routes
to not-fun, unless you happen to like that sort of thing.
Well, not completely missing, just not really followed heavily. I was making the
point that there's some money to made *without* worrying about marketing that much.
Something like a $1000 molder wouldn't hold up to a huge-volume millworks anyhow- a
tool on that scale merits something on the order of a flyer on the bulletin board at a
laundry mat, or a working relationship with one small contractor! I guess perhaps I've
just been lucky, but I've built one modest contracting job (I call it a job, and not a
company because it was only me, and no tax ID or business name) and am in the
process of doing it again. In both cases, I found one project, and ended up with more
free word of mouth advertising than I even really wanted.
There's also sharpening cutters, the fact that boards and boards which will
machine into acceptable molding are not the same thing, and even some boards which
you think will machine into acceptable molding will not (especially if your cutters are
dull), and will be waste, which the customer will not buy, but you will have to pay for.
That's just barely scratching the surface, but illustrates a small amount of what you need
to consider when you look at opening up a new business. Try making some hickory, ash
or purpleheart molding - you might discover why it's not that common...
All valid points- and the reason why I didn't suggest quitting the day job and
trying to put the local millworks out of business. When you do something like this on a
small scale, it's not that tough to grab a board or two of each species, give them each a
quick run through to test them, and *then* offer them for sale. Most things are not as
difficult as you might think, it's just a matter of being aware of what you are and are not
capable of - I'd never try and bid for a multi-million dollar shopping mall or the like,
because it is just too big- same thing with this, you just have to know when and how to
say no.
On the small scale, it's a lot more possible to reclaim scrap by hand sanding tear
out or using it for a personal project - 30 or 40 bf can be pretty easy to swallow, but
5000 is a different story. The real problem that a lot of folks run into isn't materials and
tooling- it's hiring help on without enough orders because they want the company to
grow like a weed, and then trying to make payroll whether the company turned a profit
or not - can't be in a hurry about that sort of thing, unless you're a very lucky gambler!
On wood turning
The equipment cost varies, if you like spindle turning, like pen turning, tops, yo-
yos, whistles etc. a small lathe and grinder and a set of small tools will do, a drill press
is nice, a arbor press, and belt sander a nice extra.
If bowl and hollow turning is what's wanted, then a better quality lathe is needed,
and lathe size and weight should go up as turning size goes up, lathe size does not
mean swing over the ways or inches between head and tail stock, but spindle and
bearing size plus the actual lathes mass, motor and belts size should also increase in
line with the capabilities of the lathe, and the tools become bigger and more costly to
purchase, also the wood for bowls and hollow turning need more outlay either in money
to buy or in tools and time investment, like a chain saw and bandsaw, pickup truck and
or trailer, spare chain and sharpening setup.
Also a grinder and jig to keep your tools sharp, and more sealer and sand paper
and finish and room to store your rough outs. And then enough buddies to give all
those magnificent and breath taking works of art.
Making money ?? well unless you want to turn pillars and other architectural
turnings like 10 staircase spindles or twenty of those finials etc. filling time between
orders with making so many pens and scoops and mushrooms etc. you will be lucky to
pay for the tools and incidentals, unless you are some real special turner with a lot of
talent and good ideas. So is it just a retiree hobby, NO, it is much more in my opinion,
you'll find out, it's addictive.
[Link]
1. a good lathe is needed - size is the variable. you can use a mini (I used a nova
comet) to turn items with transparent walls, but you can only do this with items up to
about 3 inches in diameter, above that the lathe just can't handle it (not rigid enough).
Eventually I bought a Stubby, and can turn about 44 inches (between centers) - you are
right it's cheaper to buy once, but good quality mini-lathes are a whole lot less
expensive than good quality "full sized" lathes.
2. you absolutely do not need a laser system to turn wood ‘thin’ - but it is helpful if you
wish to turn thin AND have a narrow top - but my opinion - thin is overrated - I can turn
goblets with translucent walls pretty easily, and it's cool, but really thin is not good (in
my opinion) for a bowl or many other items.
3. there is nothing wrong with carbon steel tools - you have to sharpen more often, but
you get a better edge. Don't go on a tool buying binge, you won't need 85% of what you
buy in the first year by the time you get to the 5th year. One or two excellent quality
gouges, and a pile of lesser tools will do. Eschew fancy hollowing systems for a couple
of years and make bowls, boxes and goblets.
5. you will need an air compressor, and some air tools, don't forget those.
Buy a lathe and some tooling first, then hold off for a while and just refuse to buy
anything for at least a year.
---
If M2 was good then more expensive alloys should be great and everybody
thought so. It now appears that with the cost and questionable tradeoffs of these
superior steels coupled with the ease of frequent sharpening, we may be going back to
M2 as the consensus workhorse. I've often wondered if round stock, milled flutes, swept
back edges and good sharpening jigs had existed during high carbon steel's heyday
would HSS been such an advance. Carbon steel tools varied then as much as HSS
does now. Some were very good, many weren't.
---
If you’re looking for good quality router bits at reasonable prices check out this
link!
[Link]
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Re-new Dusty, Dingy Leather! ~~ Give dinginess & dust a boot to your
leather with egg whites! Dip a clean cloth in an egg white and lightly coat the leather.
Let sit for 3 minutes then wipe off and buff with a clean soft dry cloth. Leather will shine
like new again!
Tool Tips
I had gotten in to doing some eBay bidding and ran across a listing for a
new electric hand drill, with a starting price of 1$. Ok. I bid 1$ on it, just to see what
would happen, you understand – and I won the bid! Or lost, depending on how you
want to look at the final results. When the drill, well, call it an item, arrived, it was so
cheaply made it was a ‘drill’ in name only. When I chucked a drill bit in it, and tried to
drill a modest hole in metal, WITHIN SECONDS SMOKE CAME OUT OF IT! The only
possible use for an item this cheap is a ‘lightning rod tool’, which you leave out in the
hopes it’s stolen, and not one of your good tools.
There are two basic types - step on it and the unit is on as long as your foot is
down’ ( a ‘normally open’ switch), and the other action, a ‘step on it and on, step again,
it’s off’. Ok?
These switches are not often found in local hardware stores… look to see if you
can get them cheaper, but I would be surprised if you can. Harbor Freight does some
things right, if you save the paperwork for the warranty!.
It’s for 110V, at 15 amps, more amperage than you can safely pull from the
average wall socket. Overall dimensions: 6-3/8" L x 3-1/2" W x 2-3/4" H Weight:
1.25 lbs. ITEM 96618-1VGA $13.00
‘Convert any electric motor into a polisher, grinder, sander, flap wheel sander, or
buffer‘, the add says. Well, kind of. Flap wheel sanders work best because they are not
totally dependent on the drive shaft centering. These items work best on things that are
not totally dependent on centering. The reason is simple enough, motor bearings are
not spindle quality. And the shafts might be bent a bit, are not a precision mount, and
the mounting is not running on precision bearings. Sometimes you have to try different
position combinations to get the best low running vibration.
Multi-purpose work arbor for motors with 1/2'' or 5/8 shafts. Right hand arbor for
counter-clockwise rotation. Spindle thread: Right Hand, 1/2'',-20 TPI
By the way, there are a few different gadgets that can be used directly on the
shafts of electric motors IF they turn in the right direction! See why I suggested the
motor have a wiring diagram on it? Hint: rewire them if they don’t.
Like what? Like arbors that turn a 1/3 or 5/8 electric motor into a machine of your
choosing. No, there are no major money savers here. - the items are ok for making
tools for home shop use, but not much more than that.
An example:
Expand your shop's working capabilities while putting spare or old motors to
good use! Create your own tools for sharpening, polishing, sanding or grinding with
these quality accessories. Recommended for 1725 RPM motors.
Double End Mandrels. These simple pulley-driven mandrels feature a 12" by 5/8" shaft
supported by two pillow blocks with locking shaft collars. Wire wheels, buffs, etc. are
easily mounted on the 1/2"-20 TPI shaft ends. 1/2"-20 TPI right hand thread one end,
left hand thread other end. Center pulley is 2" in diameter. Available with bronze or
heavy-duty ball-bearing blocks.
Work Arbors attach directly onto motor shafts for attaching abrasive, wire, and cloth
polishing wheels. Machined from solid bar stock, includes flanges, nut, and 1/2"-20 TPI
right hand threading.
Arbor Chucks. These keyless, 3 jaw, 1/2" capacity chucks mount on your motor shaft
and hold wheel strops, sanding drums, rotary files, drills and other shaft-mounted
accessories.
Sanding Discs. These 8" aluminum discs attach directly onto 1/2" or 5/8" diameter
motor shafts or thread onto a mandrel with a 1/2"-20 TPI right hand thread. Build your
own disc sander and save some money, set up three in a line with different grits and
speed up production runs! These right-hand threaded arbors attach to your electric
motor for an instant, direct drive polishing, sanding, or grinding work station.
8 inch Sanding disk platter $17 Of course this can be used as a vertical disk sander,
but think about using it as a horizontal sanding disk as well. Ok, you would need some
way to adjust the position of the motor/disk combo, but that is not an impossible
mechanical task.
One problem is a missing dust pickup for a wood lathe. To correct the problem,
start with a ½ gallon milk container. Add a female connector That’s about right.
Connect into it the right size hose going to a small shop vacuum.
The centering on the motor shaft can be off, and so can the centering on the
arbor. I suggest you start with a slow speed motor (1725 rpm) - no use forcing
problems into happening at high speeds.
Look around for chucks that take the 1/2''-20 TPI right hand mount. Be warned,
three jaw chucks are not the most centered items to start with, and… as a rule, the
more adapters you add, the more off center the spinning mass will be. Flap sanders
don’t mind being off center a bit, but for a sanding drum, well, excessive drum wobble
works against you. Go slow!
Murphy’s law says you will find lots of 5/8 motors when you only have a 1/2
arbor, and when you do find a ½ inch motor it will rotate in the wrong direction. If it’s bi-
directional it will be hooked up wrong. Read the label for reconnecting.
I do suggest you keep looking for usable motors, even if you have what you need
for the moment. Water is not a total killer of electric motors. It’s not too good for them,
true, (rust in bearings!) but does not ‘forever’ kill them, if they are dried in say, a hot attic
for two weeks. There are even some motors that don’t even notice water. Dust proof,
and even totally sealed motors are a bit rare, true, but do show up. But you don’t have
to have a special motor to survive a wetting.
It’s not a real killer that a motor got wet in the past, as long as it dried out before
you use it. You should not use an electric motor wet, however. Use spray oil to halt the
bearings getting hit with rust, and make sure the motor is dry before you plug it in.
‘Convert any motor into a polisher, grinder, sander, flap wheel sander, or buffer‘,
the add says. Well, kind of. Flap wheel sanders work best because they’re not
dependent on the drive shaft centering. These items work best on things that are not
totally dependent on centering. The reason is simple enough, motor bearings are not
spindle quality. The shafts are not a precision mount, and the mounting is not always
running on precision bearings. Sometimes you have to try different combinations.
Multi-purpose work arbor for motors with 1/2'' or 5/8 shafts. Right hand arbor for
counter-clockwise rotation. Spindle thread: RH, 1/2'',-20 TPI
A hot melt glue gun is a nice item to ‘pair’ items to be jointly shaped on a sander.
The ‘glue’ is really a flexible, low melt plastic. ‘Pairing’ two items lets you better sand
the edges of two items as one item.- and then use the heat gun to separate them, if so
needed.
A ‘tool’ for any shop - you should buy is Sunnyside Lacquer Thinner ( Methyl
Alcohol, Toluene, Acetone, others ) 1-800-323-8611 [Link] At 4
bucks for a pint it may seem spendy and unnecessary, but this stuff rules! For example,
it thins contact cement (which is spendy, use it all up with a ‘thinner re-fill’!) as well as
doing other jobs like thinning lacquers, thinning epoxy, and cleanup in general.
Warning: Contact cement has a secret mission in life – to glom up the threads of
any container it’s in. This includes the stuff you poured into a homemade ‘brush in a jar’
item (a useful item, make two or more). So, use Lacquer Thinner! on them.
Some saw dusts from a belt sander can give you real medical problems. Really.
Polishing
Cratex rubber bound abrasive wheels Kit 777 (wheels and points for the Dermal tool )
You can get 8 inch wheels for a bench grinder – even use a stone to true and
dress it - just don’t use it as a normal grinding wheel – it will (and has!) grabbed and
thrown things if you don’t keep the nature of the wheel in mind…
This unit can drive other types of belts by the way. You can also do other tricks.
Flip the belt and sand things from the back, for example. You can make a ‘power strop’
if you replace the belt with a leather belt charged with black buffing compound, for
example.
Warning: Not everything can be made into a belt. And unless you take a bit of care, not
every belt you made will ‘track’, that is, work on your machine.
For that matter, you can even make this into a ‘tape’ sander. Think about it. If
the machine can drive a 1 inch wide belt, it can also drive a narrow belt as well, right?
Make your own, or just Googol ‘abrasive tape‘, and look for Mitchell’s Abrasives.
[Link]
Or call 770-242-0888 - e-mail is at ecmitch@[Link]
Hopefully the factory will now be making full, true belts of their product. If not,
you can make your own. How? Well, an abrasive tape is basically a tape loop, some
glue on one side, and sprinkled with abrasive grains. If those abrasive grains are just
on one side of the tape there will be no excessive wear on the platen. If both sides of
the tape have grit you will have to remove the platen and just use the wheels to guide
the belt.
As it’s really just a narrow belt sander, the general rules of power sander use
apply. For wood working, under 100 grit is for stock shaping; for metal working, under
180 grit is best for stock shaping.
---
A Power Carver…
Warning: After 10 minutes of steady use the Proxxon 38642 SGM Power Carver
gets hot enough to need gloves to use it (this is normal operation!).
As the Proxxon 38642 SGM Power Carver is the best rated unit until you get to
10 times its price, buying two is still cheaper than a commercial equivalent unit at 10
times its price – so buy the first unit to see if you like it. Then extend its use with a step
on foot switch. Then buy a whole other second setup, if you use the first one a lot.
(Warning: small projects only suggested for first time users)
If you do, later on add a second unit to switch to, and to let the first unit cool
down from use while using the second one. Plus you now have a backup unit ready if
the first one fails, but these are solid units, not without a good warranty - .
[Link]
NEVER ship UPS to Canada... They even was one of those consumer TV
shows who had a special show just dedicated to how UPS robs us blind to clear
customs. UPS in Canada charges an arm and a leg to clear customs, and wow, is it
ever expensive. It is NEVER cheap to send via UPS to cross the border.
US Postal Service First Class Mail International AND Priority Mail are great -
Canada Post clears the stuff, and more often than not, they do not charge a cent for
clearing customs. Otherwise, the maximum they can charge is a $5 fee for clearing the
item + taxes (for Alberta, it's just the Federal GST at 5%).
What you should know about choosing the types of wood for birdhouses
There are plenty of choices when it comes to types of wood for birdhouses. Here
are a few tips that should help you decide. I recommend you don't use any pressure-
treated woods for birdhouses. The chemicals can be toxic to your birds (sawdust is not
so good for you too) and their chicks – and you too, as well. This goes for painted
woods that may have a lead based paint, or are pretreated with creosote.
Here is a safe list of woods that can be used:
Pine
Redwood
Cedar (smells nice!)
Spruce
You shouldn't have any problems using these woods - we recommend they be at
least 3/4 inches thick so they can stand up to the elements!