DADALUS Journal the Anserican Academy of Arte ad Siences Myth, Symbol, and Culture © Proce [CLIFFORD GEFRTZ 1 Deep Ply: Notes om the Balinese Cookght JAMES W. FERNANDEZ, 59 Prrmasion ond Performances: Of the Beat tn Every Body” nd Che Metaphors of Eeenon MARY DOUGLAS st Deciphering «Meal [FRANK E.AND__ 82. Shh fore Natu Misery of Pore snsratt PANU . JUDITH N. SHRLAR 129° Subcersce Gonesopes REUBEN A, BROWER 155. Visa! ond Vorbal Tansatin of Myth Nepnine Vig Rubens, Dryden STEVEN MARCUS 189. Languge nto Scr: Peek Kecsa OBERT St ADAMS 200. The Semi of Vorfatin: Pragmatic, Commanpacer eeut Literary ria 215 Notes om Contiuators 17 Recent lue of Dadous Apvisony COMMITTEE swivren 19:2 MTH, SIMBOL, AND CULTURE Tent M.A, Ree 8 re, tie Bs, ald an Ma Dg ra feat dn Ce He Roser fu oh Heme: Pak Fae Mid Se Mate Covgy Mie, Ha Sete, Joh SWiner PD Sh Sy and Calare Ital tl Teenie Pers af the Amserin Spon R Goma ier of te Acer and of Desa CenA na Mpg Reta SelM ‘hse | Mot, Pel eat dof Ei Aaymont Avon, Jb E_Ruchr, Carver Fans Karl von ich Erme Gon, Gora Hsin Clk Kerr, Archibutd Mec Flt ow Pod Beat, Haro Shape ; as the If edn een of ts and Scenes, A ition adsl copy reson shang of eres infor rb adhe enc Ako o tad Se, 380 Nom iw: Ds all gay. Sulton ve the Unt! States, in S840 Fr rites of ac a tg ot ac, St Publ hy the Asescm Aten of As Scene Prt eno Sie of mec ring oe: 2901 By Road, Redmond ‘ ins of Cac Gat Car Sum 220, ons pee ee wert Sodomy of rs eect Myth, Symbol, and Culture18 {AMES W. FERNANDEZ custom tht scabs asoitnswndegy varias bes of xP cet al Thee av prpsnciy sated wp for ven they bellDe ES toma oer whe tach Ho haben Se Tela) f(b) 4B) | fold) “Ths maybe wad rm fcr ago ee a The ean moverent ot Freee (A) Semple! ty sme nother (0) ft he maverent (3) meee (i ne me (8 mon yee Co), oF Pie rena): he talon fw prentan metaphor (2) 0 Dre acw meven (a) os nen ey) a anor #0 LAEcEar cn Te ey tng cn ean iw sr acssion ere LUGMtoseme cn be omar mayor and mehr ito roowenient ‘io gen ey se "i eae Ferme f Rival Mitr which tempts to gE a acca of cage totem aw ape callection of [Mids on The Srl Un of cope, te by Dn Sap foe Canal Univer LW. V0. Quinn, Won nd Object (Came, Mam MIT Pew, 1963), pp. 83 ‘oceding of he ne of ail Honey 47 (Newer 1059], 190-1959, Deciphering a Meal Tr tanooace is « code, where 8 the procoded message? The question is phrased to expect the answer! nowhere. In these words a Kinguist is ques Frog « popular smslogy.! But try i this ways if Food a code, where is the preceded message? Here, on the anthropologist’ home ground, we are ble to improve the posing of the question. Avcode aor general set of possilies for senting particular messges Uf food i weated as a code, the messages i encod wil be found in the pattern of socal relations be ing expressed. The messige i about diferent degrees of hierarchy, Inchs- fon and exclusion, boundaries and tranctins aeons dhe boundaries, Like sex the taking of fod has a socal component, as well as 2 bologieal ‘one? Pood categorie therefore encode socal events To say this is to cho Roland Barthes" on the satoial encoding of sacal events. His book, Systeme de le made, i primarily about methodology, about code-breaking land codeaking taken as a subject ia Hell. The next step for the de ‘elopment of this conceptual tol i to take up a particular eres of socal fvents and see how they are coded. This wil invoke a close understand- ing of « microscale sical system, T shall therefore slut the exercie by nilyzing the main food categories sed at» particule point in time In particular social syste, oor home. The humble and trivial ease will pen fhe dacasin of more cuted examples ‘Sometimes at home, hoping to simphfy the cooking, I ask, “Would you like to have ust soup for snpper tnight? mean a ood thik soup— Instead of supper. Its Inte and you must be hungry. It wont take minte to sere” Then an argument Harts, “Let's have Soup now, and supper twin you are seady" "No no, to seve fo meals wool be more work But if you lke, why not start with the soup and 6il up with pudding?” “Goud avons! What srt of + meal that? A beginning und an end and 10 middle” "Oh, allright then, have the soup ab its there, and TM do a ‘Welsh rarhit as well” When they have eaten soup, Welsh rarebit, pu ding, ad cheese: "What alot of plates. Why do you make such elaborate Suppers They proceed to argue tht by taking thought I coud sts the fall requirements of meal with s single, copious dish, Several rounds of {his conversation have given me a practical interest in the categories and ae suanr povetas meanings of fond. ned to oow what dies the category of « meal inert “The Bot some for calghenment wil obsiowly be Clade Li Suns’s The Raw and the Cooked and the ater voles of his Sy pique! which dacs food ategnes and table manner But th Is ‘nly begining He fall us in to mor respects. rhe tales eve {the alle sca elation which gencite the eodifeation and te Susaned by fe ere ad thee i fet touch soli round, bat mothe ‘rit in tareted space where he expet oS unversl food eae ings common to all mankind, He ts loking fort proded panmen amesnige inthe lnguugeof fod, and this exposing inal he rt tion imp othe ote Hogue quan Stn, he recs eey tn the resources of binary analy. Therefore be fords no technique for “sing the lin ae fh ry ps ht eg in a wt Gf expreions. Worse than clans, Wis techni! epparts,podecs, srenings which cannot be valde. Yen, oat, bean Roman oben tmy bert onthe meanings na somet of Babee ut even te oct himself had been able to judge Between thei and Rift’ a {eave intspretition ofthe same wor and to sy hat one was vet tis thought than the oe, he wold be more ely to age tha ll these meanings ae there Tie fl fr ear eran, bat when we auc tig of gamma, coding, and the “scene ofthe concrete” tet enough For tabling the fied categorie weed na pti fay the nals most start with why hoe arta categories nd not ees ae tanloyed. We wil dover the socal lunndaries which the fon! meen ings encode by approach which vanes the binary pe sect to Aber poon tna snes Beteon breaast aod the lst nighteyp the food of the day comes in an ordered patter, Between Mondsy ne Sony, the fod ofthe week i potted Spin Then there ts the sequence of hotdays and fst ys hrongh the year, to sty tahing of We ele feasts, birthdays and weg In oer word, the binary or oer come teas must be seen in ir syntgmatie relations The chun which ks them togeber gives cach cletent come of ts mening. Lisi Staus de uses the supa elton n i ae bok, The Saoage Mind, bt ties ony forthe state analyte of clscation sytem" (parely of proper names) Ts capable of a much mone dynamic spplcatin to fea extegori, as Michal Halliday as shown, On the two dae of ye tug and pram hn nd col, aquence sc, al what Jou Wl be hts shown haw food lees am be ranged stl they ae ‘cesuted for ether in grammars, o down ote ast el tem ting, ke talking is paterned activity, and the dafy meow may be made 8 vied amalogy nga. Being sauna ented arenes DectPHeRINe 4 teat 6 aro co throw ight oo, and gest poems of, he catego of graimar by ‘lle ths to an ai hich eam and fr macho wate tern) ‘ay to band “The pretation of a famework of categorie forthe depo of eating igh tas Daity ena Cone Heloise Motta ie Deity ewe 5 ements of primary struct My S (ary i" the” ea”) Primary scree EM EMLS contol ar EMLS) Expose of thee element (primary Eo (ana) ‘Soom of uni meal) M2 ane E fine as me Suny structures ELM ELM EMLS, EMS, ‘Eponers of mendary semen (ye Eyo3 1 Oa) ono of sendy Gases of it 13.2 gh te) ‘a E53 per Si 1 terse) SH tates Sytem tata anim” ESE i ee 2 omental reat) ong othe ak ofthe ea we wl lw rogh the lao lanes of peinary suctre FS M2 (et sod”, wer aoa) say" a ew enc MAW FSMW FSMWz FoMew (conte a SIMI) exponents of thee eles (rimaryF: Tanga) ‘Sees of wit cnr 8: 28) 3 entree) Wd dour 2: 5 fene") (Gapooy feng socnary cements For Mae Wal Exponent of sonar dente oy Ft {ite of dary chews ost By 12h ore) Nae) Fu 13 tei Bes 1 et ie) Med Peary arctces Secondary sewers i ets) MU33 (oot a Natta) 2 oui Slieream®)ot any vovenss Syemaotubsdetofunioume™ Fy: 1.11 (ear wun?) ED Gis soap) si 201 ede) poutt e) 105 fone 8) i421 tae ping?) fee “2 ae pun) enim origin mel. ep mln are FE apt je orp in / Ma: Bee maton pork (My: cheken ture ck/ gone Aap mt ee ny ct ty Sooty Sim cco etn a ere andes ee nec ae ae Senora ects unas eee 2h SRmanS rite metine acca heer qiemay mar aans Sera le.” We will glance beiefy at these: = nis Curse, Cas ete nares ‘Primary structures ea) CTE ee ine Jes meee HO Seondacysrctres (Garou involving —arong ote vente san oe | a ee Paee A Teco Andee uti everthing eacountad fo ethen en ‘Tae yl eis ew fared Toe resetnton ha proceed daw the a ‘le tearing rewrote maa eet ong ‘Stunt down tote gnome marge, te mca : “This sdvances comslderbly th anys of ou fay et of ou fama eating patterns Et Sew ho Ing aden the tase amb ald be yo a tuk moe tng hee and lOve of Sgr thee fru mei cuales wt a a tat pacts! by etoplgats working in etic ans, Tn Ina soc ditto aera acempontel Df stints incom smenalty apd ators of edible ad netic fods outs Duets Fotsot work on dn atm Homo Haren, Sse he pry SF fod as a index of ier. He ge ee to Arian Mayers de tiled stay ofthe relation between fn steps and scl exter becarnesine 4 erat 6 ‘lage in Centra India? Here twenty-three castes group themselves Second to the use ofthe same pipe, the provision of ozdinary food for common meals, ai the provision af food for feats. Higher cases share the pipe with almost allcartes except four. Between twelve and sisteen tater smoke together, though in some cases a diferent cloth must be feed between the pipe andthe lips of the smokes. When it comes fo [es food, subtler alas Is roqized. Castes which enoy powor inthe tillage see not fussy about what they eat or from whom they reerve it Mile range cates ate extrordinanly restive, both 3s to whom they ‘Nill accept food from and what they will eat. Invited to family ceremonies Ty the more powerful and nore ritually relaxed castes they purtanically iat on being even thee share of the food raw and retire to cook it themselves in ther own homes!” TFT vere to follow this example and to Include al transmission of food from out home my tsk would be greater For certainly we too know sitions in which drink i given to be com ‘ened inthe homes ofthe recipient. Thre are some kinds of service for febich i seems tht the ooly posible recognition is bal or even a whole Bot of whiskey. With the high standards of the Indian research in mind, Try now fo ety the relevant eategois of food in or home, "The wo major contrasted food categories are meals versus aks. Both are socal events Outside these categories, of oure, food ean be taken for private mourshment. Then we apeak only of the lexical item Hol “Hlave an apple. Gots glass of rll, Ave there any sweets?” 1 ikely tointesfere with the next meal, sach eating is disapproved, But no negative tate condemns eating before drinks. This and ther sodiers suggest that meals rank higher. ‘sts contrast with drinks in the relation between solid and gas ‘Meals are a mintore of solid foods accompanied by liquids, With drinks the reverse holds. A complex sercs of spntagmaticastocatons governs the clements in a meal, ane connects the mets thongh the day. One can {ye "Ie cant be lance, [havent ad Dreabfast yet.” and t breast [teat cereals come before hacon and eggs. Meals in thee sequence tend to ‘be named. Drinks sometimes have named categories: “come for coca, (ioe for efe, come for tea” but many are not named evens: “What ‘tout # dank? What shall we have?” There is no strctring of drinks to ly, unin, Hight They are nt Inverted with any necessity in thes order- ng’ Nor ithe event called drinks Internally structured into Bist, second, relia snert On the contrary, {i approved t tick withthe same Kind of ‘nk, and to count deinks at all polite. The jdgment “Its too exthy foralcobol world be both rae and Hely to be contested, The same lck fof structure 15 found ia the rl foods accompanying drinks. They ae ally cold, served in sere units which ean be eaten ily with gers, Novordor govern the choiee of solids, When the children weve small nd tos wan meal, bread aa butter preceded scones, scones preceded cake6 eany povetas ad sweet bit. But now tht the alatldcotast no loge do ints this amy, te as been erotd rom 2 neces lace day eqvence of melt a ieglrappesrance among weekend dink tnd lr gven te accompanying lds Mesle propery rue er leat one mouthentring tens ter hea, thereat ds re ite to muthouching ones A pon on inser for sing cing Mess rt nab ust rr ‘eto on ovement aon seen acpatins Te ques ton of iting dering» mea Exes Stndsy breakfast acing fe newpaper signal that the nal over, "The mel pts Fame on the gabsing ‘The ae which hedge of nd eer be hit sc inrction a ree nthe rls wich cont the internal ae the meal ul Drink nd thsi nay be set Bata el ot ‘al is al nthe bleu dimen A met erprtes 2 umber of eet, hat and el, blind and sped, id sed em iguana varios extn tai nesters egal an a ial poo. Cis ny fst he odeing these events Obviowly'the emcaings in ur food system shoud he eluate by snc clr oberon sti tit by Gringconhason iuively irom she sil eters which emerge. Drs are for sangen ne ‘jute workmen afm en ar for fami ase fen om Sed guett ‘Th ernd oper of the sytem ithe ne betwee finn sod dite Thaw we know tt ica ve av owt dene ‘he mea expec enh Those we only Know a rn we ow ts nity So mati Durr mts too {and ther ote sevont suppone i wll ways mater) te boundary betwee nis {od mess har meaning. Tove esse theses and haley pt The etcly ca! mea (since my 4 mao cont within eal wou ccm te sch «ier Sots fend ho have never hed Hot mal oe me ve pesimahiy moter thsld fit to rom The recent poplar of the burbs and af more elibely Stuctared otal rents which ats bids Heer ttm) ed distance suggests tht or ode of fting catego comm oe it canbe dwn in Bg 1 Ths ar we cameo the base inary apposition sl th mk of cls and sales Bt we ae et wth {1 genera question which ste raked whenever n conesponence toon between ie scl sce the stucre of sab by which it esprened, tht fy the guste f conciousness Those who Yehementy pet the pebity ofa mente beng cout yup {nd pig rca and ruta cern or emo that Heya thee ssining a boundary bewco shu-dinks nd sharemen “They won be shed atte very hea. eld be spi ace the fod egies die othe wal ategoie they embrace ad ae CIITERING A MEAL, 6 Faire 1 Soca aes (0) ae inks () sve mss oo seat gure 1. Evidently the extemal boundases ze only small put of the the ea ere nh fay sen on er ve ay generating tra vcr “Fhe can go mi farther cng yo mening hee barge invade hy stending to the seqdence ome or the werk mem asa cia t Soap neh BY comtrsting the vce of andy ach with weekday hn» new pine emeaes ‘Weckdy lunches tend fo have 9 tpt suction lane ecimparied by two of more ented clement fr example « mai cused ld spring hes Bo Senay ach as ui nen, ‘Sah of mh ptr ke the wok csp, rt come, 8 srimeat (otesed) and two vegetables (antesed), ond cos pl Slog (tested) cet and ets (unsresed). Chrismas tc bat {hms Goons ach on the sane petite model. He we stp and “ss atte ontgy may be ead tse ste. Meas ae red in sale of inprance and grandeur thongh the week ad he ya ‘The smalest Fant el convict Byars Se stture of the {uu nl ech ut ofthe End esl Ages agi he whole mes Srtbe meenet mea. The peretve cated by Une petitive analogies Toots the etal meal wth aoa rang ere wave the Pail we wee sce the trae of meaning the leo pel ete mea ay the ctegary ef mel ni slr av ares hs ‘Rhone which aloes the fst vo real the whole Hence the ostty Spit aowing the equece fp and pings lle ea ‘ee Scat dimension aso #0 ever the simplest mel corps agus uniting ino the pte af a Sony Annes,cy cane pacoLas hrsmases and the gmt of ie le cebstins. Wheres the shag Ff dink ‘oot hefty ofthe etal em, the lac of sree te sul sich compan sds) pas hy ty te lel he detachnet 0d smpetnanence ef ere as nina cial bonds. 22 nee Sommig vp, state rlitons teen meal ea a restive autominer ml eed aca smi Ij event of ca, tho judged ata god oral pens It'Kind Aston of repeated li pis he paces gon and grading ‘Thar we cn bronth the questi of trea whch Binary amiss by fac leaves stoned, The features which nage copious dh wold new day before aliyng es n meal in Sar home wold something ke thse tte fame chien Marge Served to Napsaon er ity evrtheAtsae spat, whoo th day of bal, te othing ut ir was ov, fed wih pr wf naw oy ts Kap Sig Seg mes pot fie heme Ban popes ak fr ‘becca a Sree sont men of he ontermstels Ea leone sec feiss, Aly coi Bd wot ea ou tates Say EN lene us wre an ace ea ee smtp he Snide Tl sa a i te ‘hee mist tave Been many’ mo excellent mel ling lars eng er th mye ae mig: Baton te oe ba ee ne ny pon an oe thee tional sup fh, ee. tnd est corse a French ebay feat ina plat wu, eee TET wih to ave sting worthy of th thing worthy ofthe mame o supper in one sh it mst prsrve the minim scr ofa om Vege so 24 tad owls and gated hese nl do ped egg on ton ‘th pay. Now [Ana the fra A proper mes (hen the Scesed rain oun} ps 3 (wea Bea urtasd ou) Both A and onan each the se strc in sal 4th whan a the see item and th teed tn conse. A weray Toe hs Ss 26 ‘Christa ithe eA? 2. rine by “To understand the citegois we hve paced cuss atthe hab of 2 small wor shame stented. The prod mege of te fod ceri ithe bonny ston fre sol event Ov ample mae ony oblique ere to cot in tine and werkt nd Sate the concerns nol Bt ure he sb tear Bs suey ‘o same denomtrble nal contcratim, The ange hes sly bogs Forth ft eewen the men symbole boda and the bounds Setcen eater of people He nly pole waton The Bt ay CIPHER 4 MEAL « be at dierent levels, but witout being able to show some such mutch- tng tbe ants of sails ean abe and abject te qc at oats the de to ich fay a sm tote setctues whi we saab tr the wider soda stem. Ob- ost this empl eke ofthe ctre of certain spent ofthe mid Ue elses of Landon The fay’ des of what mea shoul bef in voc by the Soak House by the French eine Dourgeoe Yet fence i imphed a synthess of diferent tradions. The Preach verion A the gn al ote by the sequence of wes. Th ees plat {erie the de butwecn a montng cero of nda very ses nda dscending sale of sweet ones ending with cafes. Indl {es nthe Freeh sequence can and lone. Compete the melon come ine Lond restatnt 9 Borde etn the tthe all Sic eapeted fo bw dtd with pondered ginger tnd cantor sugar (a “I53) oF Seonted with a wedge of onnge tnd 4 aystllacd chery fa 2a. Toth second, hl» eon served wth no eelishent ‘ei own perfume and uses A" aD i obvily ot «formal hat ‘ur fay vented, but ope tht is cent ow soil envionment. Tt overseen te stae ofthe cola cap The inte, Era ses meat chese aide setin, ice or pS OPPO, fds mitre of colors, riggs smock mea a mine metonym of Enh midlets mens in generale Wheres the French patter more Ide Gt BPs Aya + Bt C wh the choose couse dives © {the main sory hy from A? {dhe ain see) Tel be comptes une the pt of ht ean to hoard 4 saning fo er sect iE tuestenttonmenal form, Bench families racing ov t the mel Srosure of they ulus! entonment develop it and ntact wih it ‘eording to tee ltentone Engh Tae ead ot and fd ater Stich they adap other owe stl rps Americans, Chinese nd Sher do ewe Since thse coal eonment ford an smbient Steam af symbol capable of iret siting. but ot Unchored tos sable social hue, we caaot raced Fre © inteet {he As polt the aaj slope Bt the probes ch camot be Stra here where the ela universe esbounded. can wefally Bo ‘irda re coed eavienment “To'sun up. the meaning of src & found in system of repeated analogies FSG meal cares someting of herman othe ther meas ctinal 2 stator scl event which scars oer in oe inne The appr it ot meaning st bythe ange inert in thet inrent member of he sence The Yeon hich allows Exch mmber fo be cecal graded with the tes depends opin the Strctre coma to om all Ta egive energy which demands tht « Stalok hen ea an ht ie ik performing in the cory ‘median the same tare that i pefonns i ngage Pt dt