mt2r017
(G Werks Photographic G80 Rebull
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‘The G80 powerplant is an awesome engine capable of some serious power outputs, but as most GEO
‘owners are aware, the charger requires regular servicing, Although VW never spectied a
Febuild/overhaul interval, the bearings and seals within the charger have a lifespan considerably shorter
than that ofthe rest ofthe engine. As a result the charger should be overhauled on a rogular basis, with
the interval between overnauls dependant on the charger's slate of tune, The following can be used as @
rough guide:
30,000 -
0,000,
mn addition to this the small dive belt that links the main drive shaft with the G60's auxiliary shaft should
be renewed annually As ths is an £8.50 part you have no excuse for ignoring it!
‘These are rough estimates and there are a numberof simple inspections you should make on a regular
basis to keep an eye on the condition of your G-Lader, [these will be covered inthe forthcoming" G60
Tips" section}
Failure to service the charger wil ukimately lead tit faling terminally, at great expense to you.
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= and back tothe article —
Rebuilding an expensive supercharger is not an easy task and if you are in any doubt about this process,
wwe cannot stress highly enough how important its to seek the advice ofa professional company such as
JMR
The article is nat designes to be a DIY guide but instead to give you an insight into the rebuild process
‘and help you understand the G-Lader a bit more. Ifyou have any questions about the process or have
problems with your own charger then please get in touch with John at JMR, a he is an expert, not us.
‘The rebuild basically involves stripping the charger down, cleaning the casing and inspecting all parts for
wear before reassembling it with new ol seals, apex strips, bearings and drive bell. As manufacturing
hhas moved on since VW designed the G-Lader, Experts are able lo reassemble the charger using highar
specification parts than the originals so in theory the rebut unit is essentially better than new.
‘You can either remove the charger yourself and ship it JMR or you take your car down to their South
Coast workshop for them to remove and ref the charger for you. We opted for the later as we were
{going to be there anyway to watch the process.
Firsly, pop the bonnet and allow the engine to cool, you do not want to stuff your hand down the side of a
roaring hat charger! Remove the air box or induction kit as well as the charger inlet pipe and any
induction kt heal shield, Remove the plastic radiator cover, altemator cover and soft rubber charger
‘outlet hose (the one that goes from the charger outlet baffle box tothe plastic pipe that runs tothe
intercooler) and put these pars to one side, Disconnect the boost retum pipe from tne top of the charger
‘and push to one side. if you run a cotton gauze performance fiter now would be a good time to treat it to
aclean and 0-2
Remove the securing nut from the top ofthe charger belt tensioner and remove the top of the tensioner
from its mounting (the bottom of the tensioner can remain in place). VW have a special too! forth but if
you have a Jabbasport pulley and tensioner cap, your tensioner will be upside down and the tool cannot
be used... get the brute force and ignorance out of the tool box at this point! This will release tension on
the serpentine bol, allowing you to remove it rom the alternator and charger pulleys. Then remove the
plastic baffle box from the charger outlet (or RSR outlet if you have fted one ofthese). Disconnect the
braided oil feed line from the charger and tuck it under the ol filer cap so it doesn't drip everywhere,
Then disconnect the rubber ol return line and leave ithanging free under the charger
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The charger is now ready to be stripped down. Firstly the plastic cover is removed from the toothed drive
fon the auxilary shaft. The pulley can then be removed from the main érive shaft and the two toothed
drive gears removed from their respecive shatts along with the small drive belt, remembering to carefully
sot aside the woodruff keys. These parts need to be put to one side as al but the toothed drive belt wil
be reused
htp:iwwwmatey-matey.comg60-rebuilé- atc shim anamt2r017 (G Werks Photographic G60 Rebull
he two halves of the charger casing are then separated by removing the allen
displacer and main and auxilary shafts are now removed. The auxiliary shaitis then broken
ne counterweight removed but ‘aking care to set aside the woocruff key as this willbe reused,
seals can then be removed from both sides of the displacer and casing halves and discarded
‘The springs behind the apex strips are kept as, unless damaged, these willbe retonsioned and reused
he oil seals and bearings then need to be removed from the casing and discarded, There are a number
clips holding the bearings In place which must be removed with cell pers and retained. The
ngs are removed by heating the charger casing with a hot air gun which causes the casing to
;pand which frees the beerings, The ol seals often give the fist indication of cnarger wear. Oil is fed to
bearings under pressure and i the seals are not 100% then oli f 1d the seals into the
harger Interals or out ofthe charger casing
pase
his charger was in pretly good condition inside and o:
of chargers thal we
ed worth
but JMR were able to show us afew examples
mewhal past their prime, Thes
or entertainment value alone.
wants were obviously beyond repair bu
hipslwnw matey-matey.com60-rebui-atce.shim! sinamt2r017 (G Werks Photographic G60 Rebuild
your charger Intemals look Ike ths then seek professional help!
(Once everything is stripped down the casing halves are chemically cleaned and carefully inspected for
damage and excessive wear. Assuming alls OK, the casing Interals are masked off and the casing
sprayed with a durable siver coating. The displacer is also carefully cleaned and checked but using a
regular de-greaser as the chemicals used to clean the casing are far too aggressive for the magnesium
displacer.
htp:iwwwmatey-matey.comg60-rebuilé- atc shim onamt2r017
(G Werks Photographic G60 Rebull
fasked and painted charger casing
Itis possiole to modify the charger by parting the internal parts, in particular the charger outlet and upper
inlet chambers, This wil increase the amount of air thatthe charger can flow thus increasing is efficiency
and overall boost levels. My charger had already had some porting work performed at the last rebuild so,
‘no addtional work was require this time but such modifications would be carried out before cleaning and
painting the casing. Specialists can do pretty much any level of porting work and offer a standard rebuild,
a stage 4 upgrade which involves enough porting for most people's requirements as well asa “race spec
‘upgrade, Pictured isa charger which nas been built to race spec. This has been ported to within an ict
ft if and every possible angle and comer had been smoothed and every opening enlarged...very
cool
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The auxiliary and dive shafts are also cleaned in degreaser and closely inspected for wear. Ifthe engine
has been run on poor ar diy ol then this wil show up as burnt an deposits on the main drive shaft, Sucn
deposits are removed if possible, The ol ways within the main drive snafl are checked for blockages,
carefully leaned, and blown out to remove any diy ol or debris,
The charger is now ready for reassembly. New bearings are fied to the casing halves by heating the
casing until tre bearings merely drop in. They can be ited with a press, but the bearings are out-of
alignment, damage is almost certain to occur to both the bearing and charger, The ciclips are reinstalled
te hola the bearings in place [taking great care thal they are aligned so as not to block the oil ways that
feed the bearings wit oil. The ol Seals are pushed into place and care is taken to ensure thal the
‘external seal on the main shaft is not pressed flush with the casing as fiting them to sit sh will obstruct,
the ol way that feeds the bearing
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(G Werks Photographic G80 Rebuild
The apex seal tensioner sorings and new apex strips are installed inthe displace’ and casing halves.
‘These strips create a seal between the displacer and the supercharger casing, If they are worn then the
lack of adequate seal will reduce the amount of boas! the charger produces as well as possibly cause the
‘main drive shaft to run out of rue [wich wil further accelerate bearing and ol-seal wear). Ifthe apex
strips become extremely wor then they can jump out of place and jam the displacer- usually at speed!
The apex strips are made from a Tellon-based composite and look like a mix between plastic and rubber
with a copper groase coating. The strips arive in sets but arrive slightly to long which allows rebuliers
to tim them down to an exact fit. Strips which are too short can move around during use and possitly
jump out of thor rotaining groove. In addition, the strips shrink naturally during their ves, so a good ft
from the outset is paramount
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htp:iwwwmatey-matey.comg60-rebuilé- atc shim sonsmt2r017
(G Werks Photographic G60 Rebuild
a
The displacer is filed tothe main shaft and installed in one half of the supercharger casing along with the
‘auxiliary shaft. A special grease is then applied to the charger’s internal surfaces where apex strps wil
bear agains. though the strips are self lubricating the grease helps ensure thatthe strips make @
perfect boost-lght seal
‘The charger halves can then be put together and the toothed drive pulleys refed to the main and
auxliary shafts. Anew drive belts fited to link the two shafts taking greal care to ensure thatthe two
shafts are aligned with one another and thus correctly "timed". As standaré this belt is 6mm wide but
JMR fil @ wider t1rmm item that fis on the standard pulleys whilst being stronger ang more durable than
the original. The main dive pulley is now fited to the erive shaft and the G-Lader is now ready to be
refitted to the car.
Before reiting the supercharger ts Important to manually rotate the maln deve shaft I'should be tight
te turn implying a good seal between disglacer and casing) but smooth and should rotate without any
obstruction, Reng, as the Haynes manual says, is the reversal of removal but if you are still running
the original VW oil feed line then JMR replace this with a stronger Tellen lined pipe as part of the rebuld
htp:iwwwmatey-matey.comg60-rebuilé- atc shim wnamt2r017 (G Werks Photographic G80 Rebull
he original line isa simple rubber inner with a steal over-braid and the rubber disintegrates and
lapses with age and heat. This blacks the line and can starve the charger of ol. The new line ism
bt ‘and should never need replacin tur line is a larger diameter ine and tends no!
to naed replacing 60 is just re-attached to the nee tion kia
box can be replaced along withthe inlet pips er ba an also be
rofited and one is then ready to test the rebuilt
Beton 2 engine its important to prime the charger by turning the engine over for 10 seconds
(r80 07 tne starter motor (Simply disconnect the hall sender to prevent the engine from fring). This wil
fi the charger with oi so when the engine is first started the charger bearings are not dry. Allow th
fengine to get up to temperature and check for oll leaks from the charger and ol feed and returmines as
fell as boost leaks from the intake pipework, Assuming everything is OK the engine can be stopped and
he radiator caver, alternator caver, headlamp and grille can be rfited
®
Following a rebuild the G charger needs running in fora period of 250 miles. Ths is done simply by
keeping the revs below 4,000rpm (assuming you are run mm pulley) fr the first 250 mi
are running a std pulley you can run the engine to about 4,200rpm and if you are running a 6:
Ifyou
rm pulley
hipslwnw matey-matey.com60-rebui-atce.shim! sanamt2r017 (G Werks Photographic G80 Rebull
would limit yourself to about 3,700:pm. After this the charger should be absolutely spot-on and ready for
a decent bit of right foot
you are in the market fora supercharger rebuild, we would STRONGLY recommend the services of
John at Joha Mitchell Racing
hitp:iAwww johnmitchelracing.co.uk
also
80 The Basics [new]
60 Tuning [new]
back to te
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