< GEOGRAPHIC | MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER, 1911 CONTENTS The Mole Men: An Account of the Troglodytes. of Southern Tunisi adltk @upaaa leas ‘| The i Greatest Waterfall; The Kaieteur Fall, in British Guiana INARD KENNEDY Wr 7 Megarearion || Notes from a Naturalist's Experiences in British Guiana k cm: Wernt 8 Titusrkan ©. iL PIGEN MANE PUBLISHED BY THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY HUBBARD MEMORIAL HALL WASHINGTON, D.C,NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY HUBBARD MEMORIAL HALL SIXTEENTH AND 'M STREETS. WASHINGTON. D.C. NICE-PRESIEENT TREACUREA AsoT. THEALUNIEN HENRY GANNETT raesioent 9..P, AUSTIN 7 ~ SCCmETARY JOHN JOY EDSON GILBERT H.GROSVENOR. cinecro# quo eoirow FB. FICHELRERGER JOHN OLIVER LA GORGE, assistant enrrom ©. HTITTMANN 1909-1919 0. P, Austin: ‘hlet 8. urmaist Statinnice Ciapres J. Bee. ‘President Atverican Secsrrty Gnd Tish cn Cc. CHAMMERE MN ‘Profeasot of Oealoey. Users ty of Sica: Georce Davinson Professor of (eceraghi. Uni were of Caloratn Join Jov Enso rceaitens WaisinatinLanas& rast cox Davin Fairer In Charioe Mf Agricul Ex Plovaitins, Deu of Agric. BOARD OF MANAGERS: retest Henry PF. BLouNT Wier Present Am, Security faisd Fruot Ge, up brightly iment from caliph to caid. His dwelling and shows us the d turns down wi Matm: i yte hole, the en- the tunnel, £ almest fell over a donkey trance and walls o h were White- cating its hay. Great eyes glared at me washed, and in some of his cave-rooms. from out of the blackness. On coming he had installed European furniture. into the large, round courtyard oneTHE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE.THE TROGLODYTES OF SOUTHERN TUNISIA 797THE TROGLODYTES OF SOUTHERN TUNES gOTHE TROGLODYT with het anal brother hoor he phonigraphed Meschal, a hing tree bugrds cave dla half te take the The ed on page 824.) ahve Toth hiite-v eft i nd the lark form 1 Romain day The enter isa bedstead cut gut of the i, and there are eoiufortahte mat MAGAZINE CEOGRAPT HE NATIONALTHE TROGLODYTES OF SOUTHERN TUNISIA 809 NATIVE AKAN TOWN NHAK GAtDSTHE TROGILODYTES OF SOUTHERN TUNISIA sitTHE NATION AL, GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE EN OTHE EARTIOIN WICH THE OWING TILE MOLES 3NATIONAL ¢ WiRA PHIC ML ASAZINE$15 THE TROGLODYTES OF SOUTE LUDvri CM793) (Smt TEXT, PAGES20) THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHETHE TROGLODY'T COURTYARD OFA HOUSE AF MATMAT Sy SIUNVENG THE OPENENGS LEALING TO LItThE CAVE NM ANIMALS om the marelt is and camel, ‘The barracks, moving when in ment building fice take fright. and one — jiilituire form a tot a aml top, for a ciitifortable litthe villas are being. by feativels block an tear by, with broad streets and: large ns hid fit earl quares, with cucalypty pepper wr even on horseback. trees. Last yeat nine seemed) al- aarehy, the mos nds of t 1, so strange aod thildren, and babies are foreign. On my returm from the motin- camels, together with their my journey to see varic pwiles. Water (l housel towns, Méde it Dider’ childte ride little hotel. its French et pantie ann romaine, with sow=whit n Africa timated, iting om no riod Rome d (quarter: eutir em ‘Ti Tele the part of “extrer ud telephe nwns, and. there are hy stage-coach822 THE NATIONAL ¢ THE ONL The mounts a nish; yet bac rise, fall of project the mountain r E northern s here (sec page 826), are tribes of “Troglic worn smooth by ce of use. ‘The cave-tlwellers, living today about same as did their aneestor: life of Chi writer The town has be town ‘built: tike ne. Tt has a remarkable el fortress fe always ‘he rto a and it has withst ec Ara One dwellings the ave countrTHE TROGLOD’ sustain the life of its inhabitants. The rest is hoa at the markets of Gabes, Zarzis, and Djerba. ‘On my arrival at Médenine, I went im- thediately to see about hiring. a cart and horse to take me to Foun) Tataheuine. ‘Officers at Gabes had given me the ad- dress of Monsieur Conttier, a contractor, who taually has a number of spare ani- mals. On going there [ found that four of his horses were laid up with sprains or bad cuts and the other two available ani- pals in town were also hart, Monsieur ‘Michal, a French’ officer of the “AT- faires Indigenes" and an old iriend of mine, sent word to the Caid of Médenine that | wanted to push on to Foum Tata- houine to visit the ead, and asked if the caid knew of any horse or mute that 1 could hire. An answer came back very quickly that “The eaid had a very strong fast mule that he would lend mie” So after lunch mp came the mule and Mon- sient Courtier’s small two-wheeled cart and Ali, the driver. About 1 o'clock off we started. The landscape had been wild, hetween Gabes and Méderine, but it grew wilder the nearer we approached the curious motintain ranges or tablelands, varving in height from 400 te 750 meter Between Médenine and Form Tata- houine, a distance of 52 kilometers’ (32/4 English miles}, net a house or village is to be seen, ‘The government has built a. “pordj” at “Bir-El-Ahmeur,” which meat the “red well,” about half way be- tween the two towne One finds military bordj at int over the country; they.are military “eara~ vansaries,” where officers, soldiers, and officials ‘can find water and shelter. There are always ample water and ane or two large rooms for officers, a raom for solitiers taken il] or wounded on the march, a seties af watering troughs, anda house er room for the Arab euar- dian and his family, A high wall of sub- antial maseriry surrounds this military camp, trstally built in the form of a syuare, with ailarge courtyard in the center. There are loopholes in the walls for shooting and strong gates, so that ‘iniature fortress could withstand & OF SOUTHERN TU VISTA, Bat Only after riding Jong distances on horse or camel through arid plains or sandy deserts without shade can one ap- preciate the sight of a hideously ugly bord}, for sothewhere around its four high walls can be found welcotne shade, where you-can throw yourself down and rest, You will net mind your horse or mule carefully: picking its Way over your prostrate body, se that it, too. can the in the shade, Almost before the bord) camé in sight horses and mules would prick up their cars and want te push eagerly forward, fred ag they were, for the water of the ‘Red Well” is not brackish, and they: can drink their fill. ‘Through nine. kilo- meters of deep sand, Where the wheels sank in, half way up to the hubs, Alvand Thad to walk. We saw curious effects ‘of mirage of mountains, lakes, and green oases, where we knew only sandy deserts existed, A stall white amaribout glis- toned ‘away off to the left. It seemed as if we would never_get there. Then came a turn and 28 kilometers of exeel- Tent macadamized road to Foum Tat howine. As we draw neater, two specks stand out against the white road, which grow into horsemen riding at full speed—the Cadi aid caliph coming to meet me— the first mounted ona superb dark gray stallion and the other on a white, with its inane, and heofs stained red. with henna. My welcome was 4 warm one and very sincere. A house had been pre- ed for my arrival and furnished with caropean —furniture—tables, bureaus, sofas, chairs, looking-glasses; and a modern metal bedetead, ‘mattresses, and, mative woolen blankets. The honse was built of stone, with very thick walls, so as to be cool in summer, It belonged to the cacdi and was situated on a hill over- Jooking the pretty little town of Foutn Tatahouine, and was not two minutes” walk from the cadi’s ewn house and his law court. ‘The cadi’s full name is Mohammed Es-Seghir-Cadi du Djebel- ELAbiodh, which theans “Cadi of the White Mountain” (see picture, page ap y) he mountain hack of Tatabouine eonTHE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINETROGLODYTES OF SOUTH826 THE NATIONAL ¢ ZOGRAPHIC MAGAZINETHE TROGLODYTES OF SOUTHERN TUNISIA INTABITAN’ tains great quantities of magnesium and stands out white against a range of pink- ish mountains; hence its name, Djebel- El-Abiodh (the White Mountain), fter the Bey of Tunis and his prime ministers comes the position of caid, He administers the government, acté a5 su- preme judge, and collects taxes and debts. A. caliph represents the caid’ in districts far away from where the caid resides, hut he cannot collect taxes. ing the law, the cadi sees that the law is carried out; but it not mean that he is a priest. He a judge in family disputes, in matters of inheritance, in questions of land. He marries and) divorces, and above all he acts as pencemaker, Many were the judgments T heard during. my stay *Tatahouiine. A retired chef from Chinini, who had828 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE ‘uuto by iketrice Ni STREET SCENE IN MEDENINE e tiore ror ada’s been head cook for the officers’ mess for the mote pleased was Sada: over ten years and bad earned enough friends that dropped im to. dé ney to retire and five in comfort and) dinner the broader the smile on ce. had come down to attend to face. ¢ commissariat department during my ‘The Troglodyte town of Chinini has a it. Mohammed Hen was his great repuiation for firsteclass cooks, name, and he loved work and he loved One man was ealled to Rome, and was to cook. The greater number of courses chief pastry cook to Fope Leo XU,THE TROGLODYTES OF SOUTHERN TUNISTA 829 WOMEN AT A WEL wostes OF arfTHE NATIONAL C ZOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE ) HE ASSING OF OLD S NEW MARICET-1LACEMOHAMMED ES SEGHIR, CAML DE b, regency of Mousicir Massicault ‘The cadi has ado, cts smith of Médenine, at the bas of a picturesque gor 1-E1-Abiodh (the White high tabi (barrancas THE TROGLODYTES OF SOUTHER ut MAMRUCK employed as cook at the nerale de F Iurirye the ed his _ nephew. hunks ed, a youth of about 18, and he ect litle daughter about eight ind three all sons, Courtesy draw a veil over his family a UN queite, never ¢ within his Tatahotiine at the foot oi larg der, thy panish), traverse the They are dry of 4 it dhuring the rainy are ied by a called by the Arab: own in. the walle ne oF even two by good crop in six 9 | Tatahenine Thirty year war with its death, where man, woman, and child eds, dry river beds were put to the sw and beautiful young urried away. Above all, the To TUNISIA S41 tay Wleaed Johanson 20H, AND MIS LITTLE pavertEn, om, when of little ium fertile, and b 's watered by these Enough can he raised to live years, and in gi ars be raised to carry one over ine was created in order tribes and. towns at t the hordes of pillagers: and the ¢arawa robbers mes and the sout ago each village was at neighbor—a war to the dand onfy the plun-THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE832 SHERAOTSONS, ‘Ke rmstaor Wi NAOT FO BAW TLTOAVIT 5 Me 1M N TUNISIA st THE TROGLODYTES OFTHE NATIONAL WONDYALL Sree ay the d, Mounted on their . they would swoop down and catty off eversthing they could: lay fands upon and vanish into the § Today, thanks to the officers of the “Affaires Indigenes,” a large market- ce has been created not far from the ry comp (page 833), and here on and Thursdays a huge market Where deadly enemies of 30 and, exchange tnkes plack years ago meet and sel goats, sheep, wool, grain, { wheat, « 1, and all then life. the m like Rhorfa and inhabited by ous natives from Douirat some southern Jews, and merchints of pottery from the island of Djerba Resides several deep wells, a new well has just bee finished, built by the gov ernment. [t cost all told: 1,300 francs, including digging, pumps, and a lot of GEOGRAPHIC MAKKET MAGAZINE, Halwa ol OF YOUN TATAMOUINE musonty work, which inclydes'a large cistern, or reservoir, This well is worked by A walking around and around pushing a pstan, four or fiye men in a gang; each gang works three hours at atime. From 1M. 109 J mM, owing to the great 1, the pump is. stopped, about Half past four. the nomads would come by With their great water jars water bottles, and the b prisoners Afternoons women and the hundreds nd gaat-skin mules, horses, made to Carry. stone for tu buildings were servis thefts, fighting, ete—and their terms of im= prisonment ‘onc month, The semi-weekly market at Tatahouine is a large affair ; people from all over the country ta buy, sell and, exchange, Caravans come” fre= quently from Ghadames, 466 kilometersTHE TROGLODYTES OF further south, bringing ostrich feathers, red tinned gazelle shins, leather enshions and embroidered slippers, and highly prized whips of hide. Tt is the great meeting place of dytex ‘The large market at ship of Nefzaotm, acts ax a bo determines the prices over extreme seuth- ern Tunisia. A printed paper in Arabic and French gi prices at Kebli from May 15 to June 13, art Shee (1,000), 18 to. zn fratiéa. i is seat (seco). B to ba frais: 200}, 10 to TF Frans ds (3000), § to § francs 200), ton tas france at's butter, & ff meat ne 1 Wrote these notes, 2, 19tH Kilograin (equals 2 af ane Kila 42 1 45 catitinies Mitton, one kilogrant, 55 centimes. Chicken, 8 centimes ta 1 franc a centimes each, One dozen emes, 4o centimes SOUTHERN HON GHIA, HETWHEN Fy oF ry VILLAGH PULLING Forty liter: wentimes, A goo mule ¢ TUNISIA heey Fra al earl Jhon Eat TATA UP WATER gram of breil, 40 centiqnes liters of wh t (40 filers + 20 eetinive f barley eost 5 fran ies 40 s from 300 WW. Weigh wa franes; ti horse, fro Bo ta 600 francs, Wool costs about i! varies fi times a. liter: playing cards, and matches lies in France ilograms, eq the prices vary I "One make one frane mete of amiles vf a eentitnes a pack matches. 5 to 10 centim T game (ine finds hares, ya quail, and wild duck; gazelle ne equals 0: cents: ino cent of United States ‘a equals Enel ms ali centimes to 1.40 cen eco, guinpmwiler, re monopo: In and her lo fr pountls ; table of 200 grams a box! fing to the quality. 5 centimes is eneal to om vreney Right io tlc over ate quart: e(ual T kilogram equals 21/3 pounds a Arab F100THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINETHE TROGLODYTES OF SOUTHERN TUNISIA 887838 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE AIS MORSE, SHAK CHININE @ that had White, yellow, and but could ound; alse numcre afiecies of hig 1 heals.Photo by Feank award J ON THE TRAIL AEEWEES DOUTKAT AND CHENIN: MOTAMMED, BRAMISCH, AND A SON (OT SIDE IFAD] The boys have c @ large straw mer hats wort all ov tres caliph of the tribes of Ourdana and the About 4 o'clock we came into the inseparable chum of Mohammed, The grateful shadow of the mountains, and Jed his son to me during my wound up and down precipic » the me ins ssextremely wild, Coming quantity od and provis- top of the Jin range, we lt ag heen sent ahead with serv- tensive view—a sky of azure blue, pink- ants and Ben Sada, the cook, we started out one day for: the Troglodyte town of It took a long time to get Mohammed insisted pon aw cartridges ry one s fully armed, “to shoot quail,” they ssid, Our trail passed through the lovely oasis of Foum Tatahouine and up the oued. Nothing but rocks and stones everywhere. About & kilometers from ine we visited a walled-in towt of Rhorfas, looking like a small Mé nine. Tt was silhouetted against the sky on the top of a hill. A great well was at the base of the hill and nomad women selves rather were drawing up water for and their animals. The town w Targe and well preserved. ish, purple mountains, and gre ‘of golden sand, re by mits of silvery gi Several kilometers further an the tr opened ott ona valley ccmtaiming patel of barker and ‘some: fine olive fig tre ud just before sunset to Dowirat. it is difficult to ch umn picture hizarre—like a beehive ver" per page 836) two kilometers: everywhere are nd niches; in many places the t igs wp, and there are tiers abo tie homan Troglodyte dwelfi Above all rises the huge “ksar,”” or eit At the foot of iyte cemeter dle the now amass of ruins ravine is a TYAND. CAVES vanTHE TROGLODYTES OF SOUTHERN TUNISIA SHGRAPHIC MACAZINE THE NATIONAL GEOK sieTHE TROGLODYTE! with several fine old maribout tombs crumbling to pieces [It retninds wie of huge human ant hill turned into a moun- tain and the ants the Troglodytes. The ‘sheik and headmien of Douirat, with Ben Sada and our servants, carie cut tomeet us, and.many were the glances cast at me, for they tell me that [am the first American ever seen, ‘The sheik's cave had beet arranged-as a diaing-room for us, and there were mative and Kairo- 4van catpets on the stone floor, and chairs and a trble bad been brought from some where. We took a walk. through the town, but were glad to return to. the eave, as there was a-sharp wind. ‘The changes from noon, te ight ‘ar Tata houiite average 22 degrees, and it is far more in the tonncains. A large wooden bowl of cous-cous was brought in that had been made by the women of the sheik’s honsebold, much to the chagrin of Ben Sada. Cons-cous ts an Arab dish that, one finds all over’ tworthemn Africa. [tis made of wheat ps ed in a certain mannen, so that it 2 like very fine round grains of rice, ied soft with vegetables, when they are to be found, and served with half or a whole sheep, It is highly sea- soned with red peppers and is an excel- lent aid norishing: dish, Mohanimed, Brabisch, the sheik, and 7 sat at the table, One's hands are washer! just before exting and a _wooden spoon is given to each. ‘The host or his eldest son cute the sheep into picecs with hunting knife and all fall io. The great wooden bowl is placed on the, flocr or on a table about six inches. high, with the men sitting tailor fashion arcund it. Fach ope eats out of the huge common dish, and choice hits of mution are placed in front of one’s portior by the host or his friends. With me there were knives, forks, plates, and goblets and linen nap: kins sent by the thoughtinl cadi. In vain I protested. Ben Saila had orders that he carried out like a solilier. Our table talk was, first of ally how 7 tiked their country—was it not beautiful had T ever breathed such air, or tasted such wonderful water, or seem finer olive trees? ‘Then they would tell me of their OF SOUTHERN TUNISIA S43 peridneaes to Mecca and details of the ife of Mohammed and hie leaders. Fit nally, they would want ta, know just where America was situated, On a voy- age to Mecca the captain of the steamer had told the sheik that if he kept on through the Stoz Canal, Reil Sea, and past India and the Far East that he woul: reach America. That was clear to the sheik’s mind. Another pilgrimage to: Mecca and another captain on the retam voyage told) the same sheik that if he ee ‘on past Tangiers (Morocco) and Gibraltar he would reach America; that was too mich to believe. Being a member of the National Geo- phic Society, it was my duty to en- ene these Troglodytes where our glorious land was situated. As we were in a country devoid of fruit and we toys, so that oranges, apples, or a ball were impossible to find, T joined two eous-cous plates together and explained on this tm- provised globe where Tunisia and north- erm Africa were; then Mecca and India, 1 did not imitate Columbus and use an egy, because Ben Sada had used all there were to make-a succulent “chale-chnka," a native dish of eggs and lamb fried in olive oif with plenty of toniatees (dried in picces) and red peppers, ee guing to send a globe to my friend the cadi and some maps. Once or twice a month the sheiks of the different towhis come 10 the larjge market to- Foam Tatahoning and they are to learn geog- raphy in a practical way, Mohammed and Rrabisch igo ta| school and study geography. Wherever I am or have bem a with ribbon is to be place on the map to indicate, and they already have quite a collection of p sards‘of America and France. (OF my first night ima Trogindyte cave the less said the better. ‘The cave was cut dnt of soft rock about three meters wide and ten meters long and a little over. twometers high. The floor and ceiling were strata of harder tock. The only light came through the sareophagus- shaped doorway, On one side of the cave stood huge pottery jars filled with olive oil. They were large enough for the forty thievesS44 of Ali-Baba to have hidden themselves da, Ina niche were large wooden chests, and the nsual collection of rears hing, fram the rock wall, At the rear of the cave was another cave that served isa storehouse for saddles, woaden plows, ovis and household articles. Judging ‘aimt the solids, this second! cave mtist have communicated by: means of « tunnel with a subterranean stable, where the horses, mules, and donkeys were ken, for J heard the snarling of camels the Dleating «if goats, and the eanstant hark- ing of dogs, and it ceemed as if all the fleas of Tunisia were jumping, aver me. My bed consisted of two Kairmwan ear pets and my steainer rug that served days asa saddle blanket. From Dowrat to Chinini the trail is ry bad and slippery. ‘The mountain les are covered with esparto-yriss, We passed superb large olive trees that the Natives told me were the shoots taken, from the olive trees planted! by the Ro- mans, Fig trees seem to thrive also, ‘As we neared Chinini we saw a very large and picturesque maribout to the left of our trail To the right was a vast dlesert of sand and stones. The heat was great, and it was a coinfott to dismount ‘and take shelter in one of the caves of the sheik, which was particularly clean amd attractive. It contained the usual arsenal of guns and pistols, cous-coms plates and covers, 2 Persian picture of the kanba at Mecca, for the sheik had been there, anil-an assortment of Touares cushions and decorative rigs from Rair owan arid Persin The water for Chinini has to be carried frcin a well ir an oasis of palm and ofive trees over three kilometers from the town, situated down in the valley, It is ‘brought up by the girls and women in great pottery jars or carried up in spe- Sally prepared goat eins on donkey c The dwellings of Chinini (pictures, pages Rio-841) resemble those of Doui- fat—great caves dig into the mountain side and enurtyards and small buildings of masonry in front of the caves, Perched high above the rest of the town was the ksar, fortified citadel and THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE storehouse in times of siege, fast_tumb- fing to ruins, like all the other Troglo- dyte towns, Some of the French officers have div- ided the Troglodytes of extreme southern ‘Tunisia into three groups: ist. Troglodytes that live under the earth, like Matmata. ai. Troglodytes that five in caves or dig? holes in the fulllside. Bt. Climbing Troglodytes; snch as have seen at Douirat, Chinini, Bini Bar- ker, and Ghourme ince | have visited them all and studied them in their homes—slept, eaten, and lived among them they are all originally climbing Troglo- dytes who-have adopted the dwelling and abodes best suited to their wants, all uf the Troglodytes are set and Jeave their mountain homes to wan- der in the plains and deserts that extend from their monntains to the Mediterra- nean, or pitch their gourbis on some mountain -ide far away from any village, where their goats and camels can find something to eat. A.number of men had come over from Ghourmessa to meet us and escort us:to: their towns, so that about 20° persons dined after us at Chinini. Many were the stories they told of feats of yalor and bravery, of wars against Dauirat and the cr Troginilyte towns. ‘The sheik told us how 20 years ago, when a woman went to fetch water fram the well, five or six armed men had tm go with her. and that at night 12 er tg atmed men trolled the town lest men from another village would attack them. When at- tacked all the inhabitants woul flee te the ksar, where the walls were very thick and where pravisions.of grain, olive oil, and waiter were always kept on hand. Some of these ksar have Is from six to-ten meters thick, with one small gate~ way, where only ome tan can craw?! through at a time, and the thorfay are tuilt one upon another to a height of from six te ton stories One climbs tap by means of projecting stones stuck im at random, ‘The sheik asked me if T had noticed! the guns of the Caliph of Foum Tata-THE TROGLODYTES OF SOUTHERN TU) the earth, An Arab, no matter he is subject to his father, and or dc his jon. Wher a Mohammedan to Mecea he is called Sidi Ha adj had vore a green tur f ig that he is a direct descend Prophet.” nen of the mov their code of meters down to ted on the i Mountain with the the family anid his sons" W one of tS68 tant Trogladyte towns, of about 3.000 inhabitants. ‘Its caves seem larger and deeper than any others that 1 visite ‘The Sheik of Ghoumrassen had just finished an addition to his dwelling. He had hired men to excavate an inner cave 13 meters. Jong by 4 meters broad and about 3 meters high, It took seven men not quite one month to cut it out of the solid rock. caves have several good points, Rats and mice and insects catinot get in, and there is no danger from scorpions or vipers, atid they are delightfully cool on a hot day and warm ‘on cold nights, My adventures with my two devoted friends. Mokammed Ben Cadi and Bra- Tisch Ben Caliph, would fill a book. They escorted me to every known and aniknown Troglodyte town, cave—ieni-Barka, Gueto und a score or mote of p away in some momntaia il - ‘Thanks to them and the Cadi du Djebel- THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE, hiodh, whose thoughtful kindness I an never repay. Tn closing, let mé say that the major of French officers stationed in the out ‘of-the-way places of northern Adrica are a splendid set of men, whom it has been a pleasure and privilege to meet—men in the highest sense of the word, doing their duty and putting heart and soul into their work, ft is owing to these almost un- known men that ‘Tunisia has made sich t progress during past Jo years, These men of war tw agriculture and teach the Arabs how to improve their olive trees; how to graft new life into old trees; how to breed better cattle horses; to raise more barley on their make plans for piping water ing wells: tin dector and heal their diseased and suffering families. In short, bring order and system out of chaos, establish schools, law and order, and take peace reign where 30 years ago was rapine, fire, and sword. THE WORLD'S GREATEST WATERFALL: THE KATETEUR FALL, IN BRITISH GUIANA By Leoxarp Kannepy elt ne pend a short yaeation F the way of things. My ticket read to “Georgetown, British Guiana,” and that was almost all 1 knew about it. ‘The day previous I had met a gentleman from Georgetown, who had advised me hat city my nation. “Tt is interesting,” he said, “and there is a waterfall back in the bush worth seeing Discovered 4o years ago, it has been ed very seldom, | think Tam the oily man in Ameticn who has seen it, ‘yet it is five s high as Niagara and ranks in magnificence with anything in the world.” So 1 landed in Georgetown indefinitely expectant, Asa traveler with some ex~ perience in hidden Europe, 1 planned to loftily present an omnipotent dollar to- the “concierge” and allow him to, make the arrangements for me to start inland the next day. Lwas disappointed, sotie— to find that the type was ‘There were no pleaswre- seeking tourists and ao no concierge. | fell back on a letter.of introduction toa hustling young American. named Crane. “1 put you throvgh,” he told me, “thongh [have no idex how.” ‘Together we found a man who had made the trip. was.a rarity, even in Georgetown. “Sproston’s," he informed us, would get mo as far as Potaro Land ing, and after that Indians were best. Sproston’s, T learned, was the transpnt- tation company of the pr and an institution of tremendonTHE WORLD'S GREATEST WATERFALL SAT CUTLINE AAR OF MEETISH OUIANAS45 THE NATIONAL, Gi where the rivers are the only highways: Like most of the men I met there, Mr. Goring, the manager of Sproston’s, was villing to do anything he could to help me. Te was skeptical, but promised to write to his agent on the Potaro‘and ask if there was any one there who would take me to Kaieteur Fall This he im- mediately did: but things go slowly at the frontier, and it was more than a week before he received an answer. Meanwhile T liad a chance to become: acquainted with Georgetown. It is a comfortable place, kept cool by the steady trade winds and well governed, as British colonies are, ‘The streets are wide. aud thromgh the center of many are canals filled with enonnows Victoria Regia water lifies, Back from the street, Md anally bobicd’ 4 cw ol sane pans, are the peculiar “peek-a-boo” houses, ‘The only familiar edifice was 3 Carnegie library of the standard type. ‘The rest of the builings were usually, ‘of wood—of ping, by the way, from. our Northern forests—and raised high on piles for the whole city is below the level of the sew and a ground floor would be unhealthiul for habitation, Beside almost every hotie is a cistern, into which the rain-water from the roof is drained, This provides the only source of pure water, but sq regular are the tains that there is never a imoment of worry about the supply. ‘The people are without doubt the most interesting sight in Georgetown. ‘There are as many types as there are illustra- tions in a text-buok on anthropology. African negroes. conties from Tndi, Portuguese, Chinamen, native Indians, and the English form the constituent Intermartiage has complicated matters, so that types of faces, dre: and even religions have increased by geometrical progression into a hopelessly intricate sociological mess. [met ane lady of good social standing who. was a Dutch negro Jewess, while a coalblack Chinaman with curly yellow hair walked in the streets unnoticed but by me. It Was most amusing to hear these various types talking to one another in the Hroadest London accent. OGRAPHIC MAGAZINE ‘Even the monetary system’ ig a hali- breed affair, Prices are quoted in Ameri- tan dollars, yet the coins are English and a shillimg is 24 cents. ‘There are colonial bank notes marked $5, though worth only a potind, and there are silver four-penny pieces descended from the old Dutch “bit The town itself dock not wear well, for the amusements are few. The bo- tanical garden is said to he one of the mast beautiful in the world, just as lar gardens in Java and Ceylon claim the distinction, A drive is interesting along the old seawall, which was built by the Dutch when they settled there and the British were in possessivn of what is now Dutch Guiana. Tt was glad when an answer finally came from Mr. Goring’s inquiry. An Indian named William Grant was ready with a crew of six men to take me from Potaro Landing to the fall. T was sur- r {at the name “William Grant,” but er Tearned that the Indians have sev- eral sets of names, graded necoriling to intimacy, “To tell a’ white man their native namies would be to give him power to call down the devil on their fortunes. J arranged tw close the contract with Grant at once, and began to make my Preparations for the trip, It rains pretty much allthe year round in Guiana, very hard and yery suddenly, so that several changes of clothes are cssential. wise | had to carry 10 days’ and.all the necessities for sleeping in the bush, It was no easy matter to judge of the right things for such a trip, and [ constantly tured to experienced advice. Woolens, fer example, do not sonmad logical within « few degrees of the equa tor, but fortunately { was persuaded to wear them. They absorb the moisture both from within and without, and so revent the chills that are usually fol lowed by malaria, where that disease is always in the air. Tt is never insuffes ably hot in Guiana; in fact, very rarely even uncomfortably so, if one avoids violent exercise. All the year the tem- perature ‘stays about the same, and 1 must admit that fora short visit the cli-artist. but 1THE WORLD'S GRE: Now and then we wonld come sud- deny upon an arch in the trees, through which [ could catch a glimpse of a clear- ing and’a tiny house thatched with palm leaves. [i such a home the contented colic, who has served his five-year term of indenture on the sugar estate, lives in plenty—I cannot imagine how— the rest af a peaceful fe wae very amusmg to notice that even in these i fated oriental cettlements in South: Amer- fea Monday was celebrated according ta convention. ‘The week's wach, scart to he sure, was displayed conspicnously everywhere. Occasionally one of these lagoons in the forest would present a tnisier Scene, and several digeuts would come ont to. the steamicr to tke aff freight or mail. Then the captain would tell me that behind there they teade char- coal or grew cocoa, as the case might be, So the day pent from 8 ia th= morn- ing till 5, in the afternoon, when we ar- rived at the steamer andding at Wismar. The town was a ony place, consisting of the landing stage, a railrond station, a store, a gin shop, and half a dozen huts. But the fact that it is the terminus of the Denierara-Essequibo Railrond gives it some activity. ‘This railroad connects the two most important rivers of the province. It is, of course, natrow-gauged and poorly Quilt, bot any ‘sort of failroad is a Dlessing in Guiana, The line. rms over ground as sandy as a beach—and indeed that is what it used to be. All the coun- try below that point has been built out the ocean, just as the island was wailt from the schooner’s wreck. ‘The stations were marked ly signs and by ame house apiece. There was apparent! no. trail leading anywhere, and no one ever starteil away wntil after the train left. I was told, however, that these sta- tions are the centers of a hard-woor lis- ‘her trade which the raifroad company itself carrids on. Rockstone, the Essequibo terminus of the road, was hardly more amposing than Wismar, ‘The bank of the river here is a rather indefinable line between a swamp and the shallow water. ‘The track is ST WATERFALL 851 built on an artificial embankment, and a surprisingly geod hotel was at the time ‘approachable only by x bridge. It had teen built in the more palmy days of goldodi and om its repister were names from all aver the world. Ory the two nights I stayed there | was the atily West At 6:30 on Tuesday morning the Jaunch: started for Tumatumari, and all day it fought against the current hetween the motiotongas shores. As a matter of fact, | hardly once saw the shore itself, for the bush is so thick that it grows out into the river, leaving only lagoons hy whieh the interior can be reached, Tr surprised: me to find the Essequibia stich aiformidable stream. 1 had alway= considered the Hudson semething of 2 river, but the imknown Essequibe drains five times the crea and is twice aS long. tly in the afternoon we left the great river and entered the mouth of the Po jaro, itself a stream of no mean propor tions. A few hours later Turmatumari, a tiny habitation huilt.on a hill by the side ‘of a cataract, hove in sight. We landed before sunset. I understoad it was ex actly 6.o'clock, but | later found out that it is always 6 when the boat arrives. ‘The only: reliable watch of the village belongs to the agent of Sproston’s, who takes great pride in the promptness of the launch, Upon laniting T presented letters to the Chinese storekeeper and to the govern- ment agent, a young mart named Chris- tiani. The latier put me up in his at- tractive bungalow, His hospitality. was of a sort that one rarely finds off the frontier and Twas sorry to leave Itint early the uext day. ‘There was. a lint in the village which’ interested me. A good deal of American oi] is used in-the colony, imported in tins, which in tum are boxed to keep them from denting. ‘The hut which drew my interest was walled by these boxes anil roofed with the tins. This was merely at example of the use to which, “tide- water” tins were put, for they are an article of standard value throughout the colony.Bad At Tumatumari I met my crew of seven ladians. Grant was the only one of them who could. speak English, bur. they were a splendid lot, just civilized enougit to he willing: to:-work fora white tan fini! still unspoiled, ‘Taking them in the Inunch with me T reached Potaro Landing af noon. We cooked our break fast on the clearing in front of the store- house, for the landing ix absolutely the last Fiver settlement and it dees not af ford a rest-house ot even a store. Alter our meal the Indians straqped the boxes of provisions on. their naked hacks, and Wwe eared on a steel tramp through the bush toa spot jgni- fel by the mame of Kangarocina, he fiver above Potaro Landing tums at a sharp angle and is blocked by a cataract. Ry walking across we shortened the dis- tance and portaged the fall. On the march we twed every precau- tion against poisonous snakes. We act— ually came across only one, which we carefully avoid. I carried with me scime strong ammonia as well as a sharp knife and a bandage, for although the dangerous snakes are rare sone must be prepared itt case of an attack. Yam thankful to a-deftunet rubber eom- pany for the accommodations they have left along the Potaro. At Kangarooma there is a clearing, now avergrown with thick underbrush, and a house of gal- vanized iron, where I hung my harimock con Wednesday night. ‘There are draw- hacks to stich shelters in the jungle, how- ever. The bats and spiders which had made this hut their home were not at all compatible tomy temperament. I found tmyself drenining of them in the night. All the boxes could nat be brought over from Potaro Landing: in one carry, so the next mothing was spent in finistt. ing the job. It was pot until 2 o'clock that we starter! again, The boat that we found at Kan, Teoma was a flat-bottomed, punt that leaked badly. but jt held ns up and made some headway against the strong eur- rent. ‘The boxes were piled in the mid- dle and a large piece of canvas which we used for a shelter at night made a coni- THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAG: INE fortable seat for me on top of them, Grant, standing in the stern, held a large oar with which tw steer, ‘The other =ix took their position along the side. with one in front of the re to set the stroke. It wis a peculiar stroke, as if were iliguing holes im the water, using the paddies on the side af the baat, asia lever. Hetween the strokes they wonld tonch the middie of the oars on the gimwale, so that they could keep in fime by the sound, Every ininute or so the bowmai would into ight re palm branches. 1 did 1 like to isk a dren in so spon after rid of the fever. I insisted that the Indians either build me a shelter or take me back to their camp. Giving them an alternative was & mistake—th decided to take me hack. It did not rain that ni very well to come up through the the dikes in th daytime it te ariother matte to safely @ feam dawn thr We shot through at a ate, and once the ‘boat The 1870) ATION AL zation that it would have been better to. Irust the sky than the rapids. Bat we cume safely back to the huts early in the ‘evening. ‘On the seventh of Novetnber I col- lected about the rocks just above Crab Falls, Here | succeeded again in. got- ting fishes with hiari that conld have been secured in no.other way, At one point the bank is piled with huge blocks of stone, To lodge the fishes from between them would have been impassi- ble in any ordinary way. We pounded some hiari roots and washed them into OGRAPHIC MAGAZINE the swift current that was flowing to- wards the rocks, At once some species came to the surface, straight up without attempt to escayee, Several species were dislodged, including an electric eel. We repeatedly got it into our dipnet and it as often got ont again, without, however, making amy co-ordinated movement to escape from the reach of the net It proved too slippery, however, and got away. When the boat came by from Tumatumari we loaded my effects into it and I left the region of the Potaro and upper Essequibo, PECULIAR CAVES OF ASIA MINOR By Evrzasetu H. Brewer With Photox by the Author JEW travelers have visited the Trog- lodyte dwellings of Asia Minor, not because they are lacking in but becanse traveling in that y. There are two or three short railroads near the coast, and ‘one from Constantinople to Konich’ (the ancient Tconium), 4 road which will ultimately extend to Bagdad, [hut if you wish to see the interior of the country. it must be either on horsehack or by car- riage, ‘There are several fair wagon roads, but often you must mount your horse, climb mountains, ford rivers, and wander through forests. Many. times the path is discernible only a few steps in advance. Another inconvenience of travel is the necessity of taleing all things neeifful for man and beast—such things as-bed and bedding, cooking utensils, and food. A few summers ago I was in Hert, a large town at the foot of Mt Argaus Rad abode ah aniley teint tee Melia ranean near ‘Tarsus, To the south of Argeus isa wide plain, opening from which toward the west run several nar= row valless, ‘Two of these, Soghant? Dere (valley) sind Ureub Dere, have many traces of the early or earliest in- habitants. 1 had planned to visit the former valley, but my foreign escort failed; and, the region nat being very safe, I decided to go to the better-knowit valley of Urgub, It was something ef an undertaking to go ona four days’ trip away from regu- lar lines of travel with only a Armenian teacher und his fathe there were no other obstacles in the way, Twent. Although it was past the middle of September, the sun at noonday was very hot. Therefore we started. soon after 5 a. m., and rode through the narrow, stony streets of Everek, then around the base of Mt, Argus (Erjias Dagh). ‘The grand old mountain towered high into the air, the highest point in Asia Minor (13,100 feet). The summer stn had melted all the stow: on its seuth- ern side, so only bare rocks remnined. The ascent did not look very steep, yet T was told hy one familiar with Alpine climbing that this is more difficult than that. Our little caravan had somewhat in creased, and consisted of my young guide and his father, large men mounted on little donkeys: another Armenian and his son, and a Turk, these three takingPECULIAR CAVE f our trip to go to Urgub; the muletcer, and a donkey with my lead ‘There is always danger of robbers. and people do not like to travel alone. Hence hews of any one making a journey is and others join the purty ‘frees are rare on these plains and one gladly welcomes them; so when after five hours we came to a tree, we rested under its shade for lunch. Near us wer mies of shepherds who. advantage sagn spre rude tents, the fi watched their flocks. We. or rather I, was a great curiosity Foreigners, or even nat ASLA MINOR $71 Photo by El TURKISH, CEMETERY dress, are uncommon, and a woman who rode 's side saddle was strange, indeed The people asked, “Does she have only As we sat on the stones women, and children crowded the p every around little detail The ride across the plain was lon; ‘There is almost no vegetation, the soil is very salty, and reflected the hot sun: In the distance the effect was like a large rage was so perfect that only hed could we realize that 1 have neverTHE NATIONAL Gi Photo by Etats 1) Beewee NEAR CReUs. seen the desert, yet | fancy this was not unlike it, only smaller in extent, He cause the plain seems te lengtlien as one it is called ‘by the Turkish word Yuvash, ynvash” (slow, slow) ‘Late in the afternoon we left the plain entered a narrow valley. up over ve tneven paths to a high ridge, where below us,.cm the other side, was the little village which was to be our first stopping place. It was quite dark when we entered, so we attracted little atten- tion. The father, who was well sc. qwainted here. had said we should fi comfortable rooms. Imagine my dis- may when we were taken to a room, large enough, it is true, but dark and gloomy, with lithe air, would ave to serve the three 1 viewed the room from all points inside, and also from the outside; there was 10 chance jor privacy and no other place near safe enough for me. After our tea and calls from various people, we looked at other houses and found one with a wide porch having three arches. This opened on the ros ‘but was too high for any one to get in or easily see in, ‘The curtain which [ always cartied, and is, by the way, an ntial in traveling, was hing from ¢ pillar to the house and made me a Tittle room at the further end, my ent= panions haying the rest of the porch. GRAPHIC MAGAZINE, ‘There was plenty of fresh the night was comfec able, and Twas perte safe. We were to make an early start, so Igor up in the dark hours, One of the men made a fire and prepared coffee. After that, however, we went back to sleep, and it was ut least two hours later ticfore all were ready These people live by the sun, and the muleteers could not he induced to start until day~ light was fully upon tt The morning: was beautiful, Our way wound along. through the fertile Urgub Valley. It is marrow, with a stream flowing throngh it; the hillsides were covered with vineyards full of luxuriant frit. Oceasionally we bought a water- melon or two (small as nusknelons) for our refreshment. As we rode along in the sweet morning air all nature was charming. Soon my attention was, attracteil by a strange rock formation, The rock seemed 1 be worn away in places, lea ing a series of cones very white an glistening. These were on both sides af the valley, Sometimes they were en- ely free from the test of the rock and looked! Tike a forest, They varied gteatly in size, from 10 to 4o.ar 50 fect in height. Many. had openings and seemed intended for dwellings My curiasity was arused, but we could not now tarry As we entered Urgnh toward noon We pasced n Inrge irregular cone, 109 or 200 feet high. with many windows, Tt stood by itself and interested ts a¢ T took ‘a photograph and later intended to explore it, hut was told that mow it is anty a home for pigeons and cannot be visited The sun fad grown very hot, the glare from the white houses was trying, nd T appreciated the hospitality of friends. White T rested my companions nt in search of a guide. We were disappointed to find that thisPECULIAR CAVES OF ASTA MINOR oeTHE NATIONAL GE rat By ila LARGE IVRASIINS IN GANIX town with so many rock houses had little of real interest, and that we had call this way for nothing, Urgub is built on a side hill and many houses are Git inta the cock, but the places which looked most attractive belonged only to Moslems and we caild not gain enitrantee. Our first thonght was to rest a few hours and then returm to the place where we had seen the eontes, but after talking with sate of the Protestant Greeks we decided to hold a service that evening: and Teave early the next morning. Mad there heen one more day for our trip we shotld have driven to Martehan, a few miles away, and seen a rock church id other cones which towered in the distance. We wandered about the town and called on one of the Greck Protestants, Word of the meeting was sent around, and some 30 or go gathered in that mp per room eager to hear the wards of life Men with faces worn hy care and others with little ones in their . children attentively listening. My young companion translated. fer we 1G! APHIC MAGAZINE, spoke differeitt languages; but we had met to worship the same Goil and strengthen our imutual faith. Alme every one waited to shake hands anu to thank heartily ‘True to their promise, the muleteers were on ltand, and before day had fairly come we were off. In many place ‘on the hillsides | saw dark patches. After puzzling some time, I asked wh ased the peculiar Oh, these are masses grapes spread out to. dry was the answer. At last we came: back to my cone forest. One or two Tundred cones were clus tered together. We entered several and found a. similar plan in each, One large sh mom. about 10 feet high cut out in the rock. There were a window, a fireplace, and shelves cui in the sides. The stone was soft and the heat of fires had melted it sufficiently to form a glaze over the in- terior surface. Some of the cones were connected, so that we could go through the doors from one dwelling to another. In a few, windows were up quite high, Weird indeed it was to be waniletng through this desolate city, this city of the past. When by whom were these houses made? 1 eagerly scanned the walls inside and out, but here there was nothing, not a word or a mark to betray the ancient inhabitants. Far hack in history mention is made of people who Hived it asin Obadiah, “The pride of thy heart hath deceived thee. thou that dwellest in the clefts of the rock, whose habitution is high.” but we hive mo idea of these strange dwellers Professor Sterrett, af Cornell Univer- ity, who visited this region and exant ined the cones fully, comes te the oon clusion that “the cones of Cappadocia were well known and inhabited in the dim distant Hittite period, at about igoo B.C. a date beyond which we cannot hated need ae Any ito sensPECULIAR CAVES OF ASIA MINOR This is a voleanic region and the lay- ets of rock are of different degtees of hardness. During the centuries the softer material has worn away, leaving. as Professir Sterrett save, “tens 01 thousands of more or less isolated cones and cone pyran 1 known that chamber 25 feet long, 13 feet broad, and 1o feet Ingh was excavated by a single workman in 30 day A bali hour further brought us to the little village of Garin: the hotses. were indstly cones, two being especially large and fine looking, We counted 10 or 12 tiers of windows. 1 was extremely. ansious to enter these dwellings, but this was a Maslem village, and we at- tracted so much attention that my com- panions were absolutely nnwilling to ave me tarry at all. We crossed the valley anid passed ane or two large iso Jated cones, of whieh T° took photo- graphs, They were evidently used for storehouses, Abntt noon we reached Boshkeni (head village), where we had ystsced! the aise night. Tt was daylight now and le came in crowds tw Set the strange tent T sation the porch, araerertcn too tiear approach, but on a little rise of ground in front the women and children gathered, T ate my lunch, arrs 1 my hait, and washed thy hands, tothe great astonishment of the watchers, One of Thy companions came in at that moment and was shout to speak to the women, “Don't scold ug.” they said; “don't drive us away; we only want to Took,” For once T felt like Rarnum’s greatest show, but T did net object to their Inoking and took the oppertunity myseit to soap as many of them as possible with my camera. Tt was just at the season of wheat harvest. and many large threshing-foors were crowded together year the village. Tn one place the oxen were treading out the wheat; in another a man or a woinan Was tossing it into the air to let the wind carry away the chaff. and in still another place some were putting the good griin into bigs. A high wind so completely covered us with chaff that 875 we were obliged to wait until the shower haa topped. Fron: sere we retraced our steps wird Everek; up, the hill, then diwn, down again to the valley. As-we rested by the way two: Circas- sians passed tts. 1 hud heard so many stories of Circassians that, although as- sured these men were friewdly, | was glad when they were gone. di was al- most dark when we encamped for the night in one of the many sheepfolds on the edge of the plain, Stones were piled at the entrance so that we could nut easily be disturbed, My bed was spread hear the wall, with my good horse, Charlemagne, not far away, and there under the light of the stars, with this strange company, the night passed, Te= fore daybreak we were crossing the salt plain, and hy noon, Tot, tired, and y weleoined the shelter of THE SPEEDIEST BOAT HROUGH the courtesy of Dr. Alexander Graham Bell and Mr, the Navwxa, Geo publishes illustra- 77 of perhaps the sRarnic Macaze tions on pages 876 most uiistal craft affeat, the hydrophine boatiaf Mr, Borlanini: In this. motor boat Dr, Bell recently triveled 45 miles an hour on Lake Maggiore, ttaly” ‘The new Italian hydroplane is de- sctibed by its inventor, Enrico Fortanini, of Milan, as follows: * “The apparatus has been patented under the name of appareccio idrovo- lante (apparatus for hydroplaning), Tt constitutes true hydraulic fight, the a paratus being sustained by the water in the sine tanner that birds and aero planes are sustained in the air; that is to say. by the dynamic reaction of the water on the superfices or planes attached to the hull of the hydroplanes, most of these planes remaining completely out of the water while the machine is in action, “The idea of using the dynamic reac- tion of the water is not new, but up to * Quoted from the New York Eeening Poit,THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE 5 % =By8 the present has not been applied with success except what has been attempted with gliding boats. In these boats, how- ever. the hull does not leave: the water, but skims on the surface, which hinders the attainment of really high speeds. “he most important characteristic of the hydroplane is that the resistance of the water is not dependent on the speed, bat remains constant, and is equal to fulf the total weight of the apparatus: the total resistance is increased only by a portion of resistance due to the air, a portion naturally proportional wo the square of the speci. In consequence, similar hydroplanes in the future sheuld ‘be ble to attain speeds cf 6n to 100 miles an hour and change themselves into fying machines by the addition of the necessary planes: for aérial swspen+ sion," After six years of experimenting, Forlunini can now consider that he has arrived at fully satisfactory and definite results, says the Svientifc American. ‘The first hydroplane he tried, during the years 105 and 1907, immediately demonstrated the excellence of the new system, but its performances were al- ways handicapped b by the irregular work- ing of a bad jo-hafsepower motor with which it was ffted. Another Bydroplane, tmied during the years 1908 and ‘t909, was fitted (with a steam motor that worked more regularly. Although the effective power was only 25 horsepower and the weight of the boat over a ton, this machine attained a speed of over 50, kilometers an hour. ‘The hydraplane that is being tested at present weighs two tons when there are two persons ahoard—it is possible two carry four other persons—and it is fitted with a too-horsepower gasolene motor. Tt has attained a speed of 45 miles an hour, and this’speed will be increased the introduction of a few motlifica~ tions that are being gradually indicated during the trials it is now undergoing, ‘This hydroplane has a hull 328 fect long: at the hows and stern are two strong steel tubes transversely. At the THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE four free ends of these tubes—namely. ‘on the starboard and port sides of the Iicat—is fixed a sort of framework, which contains & Seriés of planes, one above the other, ‘These superfices of planes are made of high-resistance steel, the workmanship being very accurate, and their size deereases from the top to the bottom, When the hydroplane is not working, but-is floating on the water like any other ordinary boat, the planes are immersed in the water, and have a slight horizcrital inclination, As soon as the hydroplane, owing to the working of the screw, be- gins to move forward, the water cxer- cises a vertical foree on the planes in precicely the same manner as the air on the plines of an aéroplane, ‘The hull therefore tends to, rise and so diminish its immersion and, naturally, the resist- ance against its motion in a manner that the speed is able to increase. In this way there comes a moment when the hull is completely out of the ater, At this pomt the speed rapidly increases, and little by little the various planes or supertices rise ont of the water one after the'other. When the maaitnum speed is reached only the bottom planes remain on the water, while the bottom of the hull is 65 centimeters higher. ‘The propeller by whiclt this strange craft is driven is carried on a hollow, fin, which may be seen amidships, the short propeller shaft being revolved hy bevel gears attached to a vertical intermediate shaft, driven direct off the motor. IMPORTANT CORRECTION oO N page 603 of the July, 1911, issue the credit tine uniter the ilistration of the di achs Was erroncously given as “the ‘Charles Ro Knight. Mr. ‘Knight, the well-known artisi-naturalist, whose paintings and models of birds, animals, and fossil creatures for the United States government. the Carnegie Institute, and the American Museum of Natural History have distinguished him in his _professii resides at Lawrence Park, Bronxville, N.Y.HAMBURG~ AMERICAN ———SRUISES TO THEWEST INDIES =a «6—s Visit the American Mediterranean and the Panama Canal Five: delightful cruises to the West Indies, Panama and the Spanish Main by, the » palatial twin screw steamers Steamers Moltke and Hamburg 1) hearing New York—$.5. Moltke (12,500 tm) (28 days, Jan. 23, Feb. 24, 1912. $150 and up— # SS. Hasnburg (11,000 tone) 21 days, Feb. 10. A Mereh 7.1912, $125 and up—S.S. Moltke (12,- 500 tues) 18 day, March 26, 112, $88 aad up. Every lueuy of travel Every refinement of woke buecd Yorcey your hotel with you. A wonderful opportunity for the basy man cee ee GROANS SOUTH AMERICA The 5.5, "Bluecher" (12,500 tona) will pail {rm New York, January 20th, 1912, 0a the third: annual cruise of 18,300 mules to the picturesque and wonderful cities of South America 80 days, the elastin of thin cruise, will be sient under the most ideal conditions both aboard and ashore. The S.S, *Bluecher§, the largest cruising, steamer sail re eres antes all cape lor tis esa ial veailedeatio afford: the sino Leeary and corti on cost ot $350, ovo canis to forthe et “To sine the comes of all, the crise i Lined wo 300. The itinerary will include the following pots: Bridgetown, Pernambuce, Santos, Montivideo, Punta Arenas ar that $8.00 per day, oF (Ghrough the Straits of! Magellan), Valparaieo Cacivex the At), Bucnoe Ayres, Rio de Janciro, Belin, Para, Port of Spain and St. Thomas — optional side tripe everywhere, (Niner wf mil cotved, 1%,300, All excesuemations fs tases Wit or fl enformation ‘Craising Department, Hamburg-American Line 41-45 Broudway New York CBieseg Philadtohin Bowen | Si Laie "Sen Femmeac Price “Mention the Geographic—tt identifies you"HEN the ball is snapped into play, twenty-two men leap into instant action. Certainly no ordinary camera lens could capture a picture of that sort. But look at the above photograph, taken with a Bausch lomb feiss wen the ball Ts lens ever produerd actian pictures, land Our Boal adapral es, ludeor partesita and 20 ca. ‘and full taformation as to Bausch £¥ lomb Optical G. MEW YORK wAnnincTOM cHiEAGe sas phanciiee UenOON ROCHESTER, NY, MRANKrour THE ROSS STEREO PRISM Binocular Perfect Prisms. Widest Angle of Vi jons. For Field tse, « Mountains ik the Sea. For Nature Study. Glass of Great Power and Penetri Sen for price WILLIAMS, BROWN & EARLE, Inc. 948 Chestnut Street Philadelphia, Pa. VU. 5. Ac “Geographic readers may depend upon the Integrity of our adveriisers”Coniparison of the Distance Traveled by Earth and Bell Telephone Messages _ The Orbit of Universal Service In one year the earth on its orbit around the sun travels 584,000,000 miles; in the same time telephone messages travel 23,600,000,000 miles over the puth- ways provided by the Bell system. That means that the 7,175,000,000 Bell con- versations cover a distance forty times that traveled by the earth. When it is considered that each tele- phone connection includes replies aswell as meséages, the mileage of talk beeomes cyen greater, These aggregate distances, which ex- ceed in their total the limits of the Solar system, are actually confined within the boundaries of the United States. They show the progress that has been made to- wards universal service and the in- tensive intercommunication between. 90,000,000. people, No such miteage of talk could be pos- sible in such a limited area were it not that each telephone isthe center of one universal system. AMERICAN TELEPHONE AND TELEGRAPH COMPANY AND ASSOCIATED COMPANIES One Policy One System Universal Service ‘Mention the Geegraphic—tt identifies you."=| See th GLORIOUS L. AUTUMN TINTS along the $28 Are You Interested In Rare Books Dealing with the Amer- ican Continent, North and South? West fn Mexican Phitipe alia. . sit ‘tie above LATIN AMERICA BOOK COMPANY 119 Exat 6h Street, New York The “HENSOLDT” PRISM BINOCULAR possesses the largeat Fieldand Light gathering Power crested by | ]] guewPrinm combination. “Adopted bythe Le mies and Navies of the World.” SEND TOR DESCRIPTIVE CIRCULAR |-¢ The A, LIETZ CO., 692-34 Caimmerse St. Sau) Promcisen, California “Geographic renders may depend upon the integrity of our advertivers.”ASSURE ACCURACY AND INSTANT CONCEPTION caging koelesive of wr Abowd terse Bos Map tel Caplin of the ceed ul he com al telat Beside sur wea! cul nieectty, Howells Relist elle sbowapi the bourne ea Tey tured, aed, shove alk nbwalitely erent erotic wpe nn dle FSET SAV S| Sint prec elevationa. buildings fc, Dull eta There in an question nats hye great unlug of Hewell bee TUEASpiecter, Washington School Collects 1 lid Mapa, ‘They ld oe unicerll oo ~ (hip Mamas oj Nodaral Hira, New Veet & of Minerale coveted exsen, at wccarmpaatied itl modal vest be ioiains SEO, Send fot euculer tia eatslagoe of Howells Rliaf Mag atid Models. Write tober. HOWELL’S MICROCOSM So That Everyone May Buy “The Standard a of Proper Style Work MAKE ~ HUGHWILLO FURNITURE: ae Geed Value” High Quality = JOSEPH P. McHUGH & CO. (Established 1878) (a) Forward Freight Free to. any Point in the United States, prepaid purchases amounting to twenty-five dollars oF over, oF 48 Give free gest cushiona for chairs with all repaid ordess; eeight charges to be paid by yest, OF {<) Ship on receipt af five dollars, money exter or N.Y. diatt, the MeHugn Bar Harbor Custioned Arm Chair, or (4) Mail for 25c. ia stampslallowed on Bret order placed for acHiughwillow Eurnitere the 6 rartiolio ol Pen Sketches an fixed Pricelist, or (2) Send portpalt withost charge, the Mlus- tated Booklet and loose leaf pictures of the BMcHughwillow Furnitere in groaped effect, LF Corespandence ts Cordially invited. 9 WEST 420 ST., at FIFTH AVE. ‘Dpposite the New Public Library, NEW YORK. (Onis Address Since 1854) NOAGENTS, NO BRANCHES. BUT SATISFIED CUSTOMERS EVERYWHERE 612 177TH STREET N.W., WASHINGTON, D.C Le welcoming. cameri No be outit The Grallex-Steinheil ‘Combination Will found oot your pl fraphic diary of rod andl ju Aoihica as re other ontit cam, be~ suse JPM CE HERBERT, Te SA Maison Ay sew ‘Mention the Geographic—It identifies you"Wherever quality gathers — Lica Be Ch ee ae aL Cans eee PIONEER SUSPENDER Co, PHILADELPHIA HARRISON GRANITE COMPANY Room: 1311-A, 200 Filth Aves New York City Pine eur sort MEAG | gudiheay Spring af Water $4.00 percase, 12 half-gallons, through = your dealer, or direct te you. “Geographic ccaders may depend upon the integrity of our advertivers.”if ANNOUNCES ee requests, warts veces "Send Frea Catalog No. 21." aD) or my JOHN WANAMAKER Pricer pexpalh wa re 1G, RADCLIFFE & C0 New York ‘Now York “Round the World” THREE TOURS Leaving during November, February, and March. Four to, SOUTH AMERICA. fir Glorious Mediterranean ° SPECIAL EARLY WINTER SAILING «= “ADRIATIC = New YirleM ‘Send for Bite RAYMOND & WHITCOMB CO. Bouss New Yock Phildeiohin Pitibore Debit > MIDWINTER, PLEASURE VOYAGES Ror York — Riviera — Ital: te "7 Ans meds, Giorno: Alge “ADRIATIC? — “GEDRIG” eae cin February 2 seer, WHITE STAR INE #430 5 “Mention the Geographic—tt identifies you"CHARTERED rau GIRARD TRUST COMPANY CAPITAL one ae fiaeeaaee r 24 View President CHARLES J, RHOADS GEORGE M! stwaict, sb The most maunificet place in Amexiea, embracing every Ieature to give perfect wcrvice Neo eee &fc NATIONAL Louis MARTIN’s | |eawerel g.W sire Broadway, New York Tih Argos, MAGAZINE ~ at 2d St. at dd St. The Restaurant with the Atmosphere Pe ae ee Lunch Dimas, and Suppe G " Rhee teat Seu tis The GILL Een Dinner, $1.50) fram 6 ta 9 ML corte Tey | Se eos Rensselaer "= Polytechnic anfsccet Institute “Geographic readers may depend upon the integrity of our advertisers."MAPS T is not enough that your maps should be coi and exac should be beantiful as well. the way we make them, We supply the best geoyrapl and book publi ; Whether your map ealls for a one- olor treatment or for several colors, we give it a treatment to make it sal authorities ers with maj vigorous and balanced, an ornament and an attractive festure to any book. Besides maps for book publishers, we make wall maps, color work, do ‘a general printing business, inelud- ing engraving, and binding. THE MATTHEWS-NORTHRUP WORKS BUFFALO = CLEVELAND esigning, NEW TORK DRAWING INKE EreRNAC WAITING INK » | Ewerpasing 1 Romine MucITAGE 1 PRote MOUNTER PASTE | BRAWING-ROARD PASTE gure ease CHAS, a a i th, * les, 271 NivihStreet, Brookins NY. When Visiting New York don't fail ta see qulaied The Oriental Store Broadway Si iihse Use! E any other store in the world. ‘THE MAIL ORDER SERVICE J. M. TROXELL Dvir Braun's Carbon Prints 1 West 34th Street, New York {Century Holi) Direct Repraductians of Ancient Modern Masterpieces in the pelacipal tallener of the world: alo of the mod cele buted Architecture, Sculpture, and Views of Switzerland, - $050 sated, 1.00) M Beokiet Nu Fa Femsat Pictures Framed and Shipped Everywhere PRINTS IN COLORS {he oretnapaltings Fiera wil be decteea poche amounting 1 $20) “Mention the Geographic—It identifies you”THE HOME OF THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY, WASHINGTON, D.C. AM Astoctatiu Osyaolant for ~The Iinrease aan Doualon of Crore: Rewwteicet RECOMMENDATION FOR MEMBERSHIP. as National Geographic Society The Membership Fee Inclades Subscription to the National Geographic Magazine 00: anmal eibeerhitaoad $5.00; Cui, 42.50 ile mettre, ble ne Nasueal Coogteghe Stee: ad Yak we Oe eat 19 ‘To the Secretary, National Gesgeaphic Society, Sentanth and Mf Sinels: Norlnset, Washington, D: C= J nominate Address for membership in the Society.Lhe Hour of Prayer & os wonderfully comprehensive picture of the Great Sahara has been re- produced in sepia on heavy artist's proof board, size 7x 18 inches, unfulded and ready for framing. aly a limited edition being possible, your order should be sent in'at once. Price: postpaid, 50 cents Dept. H, National Geographic Magazine, 16th and M Sts., Washington, D. C. 5 7 hana canae seinen Bien THE HOLLAND HOUSE fexjoya o urijar dlicinetion aneong ex Mice red disttss cata boa: al fF panel the Union. Is COMFORTS AND LUXURY ‘appeal to therequirements of each individual The room, single or en ate wih or wi M ntcick tcrhopeh and pub: always im demand. tunclerground andl levatedail- Fond stations, theaten and shopping centers. THE HOLLAND HOUSE, Bh Avena 30th St. “Mention the Geographic—tt identifies you."P BRUSH The Land of the Incas F all the ands comprised in the vast South American continent, there is tione more richly endowed by Nature with everything oO that is magnificent to the eye of the traveler, none whose his- tore fascinating, whose relics of a former age are more Potent to east & spell over the imagination, than Pert. It Was Here that, in the fulness of time, a hundful of daring Spanish adventurers, emboldened by pride of race and lust of gold, sihju- gated an entire and almost unknown nation, planted the Cross over the ruined temples af the Sun, and turned the current of history. Such a land cannot but offer irresistible attractions to the modern tourist, and we will be glad to furnish information of a geticral character to prospective visitors, andl to convey some iden of the nature af the country. Scenic Grandeur Unparalleled Nowhere ¢lsc (11 the tiniverse hae Nature talid such colossal difficulties in the way 4 never were difficulties more stoutly combated amd overcame. Now cutting through kigantic masses of Tock. mow scaliny precipitous heights, now crossing abvamal ravines and rodrinye torrents, the great suilitary thoroghiares constructed in Peru under the Thies dgnanty challenied comparivon with the proudest achievements of the Olt World. Splendid Railroad Equipment Perti ig still the countty of womferinl bighwayi, but they are toda rogila of steel, and the engineering trimmphs which sy amarcd the discoverer of the country are eclipse by the modern railway man. All of them are well eanstructed roads, ever which the passehiges ia borne it, comfortable couches ax amonthly and safely a if be were traveling om one of the leading tran: fines nf Greut Britain oF th How To Get There A tempting variety of steamship routes is offered! from Iurope to Callan, the rin cipal port of Pers. A regular fortuigittly service of tho fine steamers of the Roval Mail Steamship Compeny leaves Liverpool for all the principal Rrarilian, Chilian, ind Deri Wan. ports as far ay Callao, anil a tiore interesting run it would be dificult to imagine, At Montevideo the-paszenger may, instend of contitming the trip Suuth to Punita Arenus aud throngh the picturesque Straits of Magetlan, elect to make a alort stay in. Hiseton Aires, the Paris of South America, anil praceer! overland to Valparaiso by the Trannane Gitte Railway. The quickest route, hnwever, ia that by the Atantic steamers frou: New Vork, wheiice veoicls soil to Colon, train then being taken to Fanama, tw starting paint of the West Const steamers, the whoje journey belie usually completed withity abut tte weeks. Ati alterhative to this trip, again, tn available by the Roral Mail boats to Colon vin Bartulos and Trinidad, The Peruvian Corporation, Ltd. Taw Cewtuar Rarway ov Peav, Ut. ‘Tre Teuynto Ramway, Ltd, THE Sourimes RaMWay or PERE, Lul, Tui Pacasiavo & Gyapatule NAVIGATION etki THTIGACA Rainway, ul, Axo Riven Dasagranno, ‘Taw Criynorn Ramway. Tay Guagui % La Pax Kanway, Tam Pisce To [ox RatLway Tuy Barra 20 Prowa Ray : ‘Tun ILo To Moguscua Rarwav. Full information regarding sailings, fares, etc.. may be obtained upon application 8 the Tourist Agencies or our New Yark Representatives. Messrs. W. R. GRACE & CO. London Office: Hanover Square 43 Threadneedle St, E. C. New York City “Geographic readers may depend upod the integrity of eur advertiser”JUDD AND DETWEILER, Inc. a specialty of “yy Catalogues, Legal Printing and Briefs, Best Grade ‘This Magazine is fromm Que Records, and Presses of Commercial | Outoltovn Work Solicited Motions Two, Phones Printing 420-422 ELEVENTH ST., WASHINGTON, D. C. The Most Wonderful Mountain Photograph Ever Made Panorama of the Canadian Rockies qs: many inquiries have been received regarding the Panorama of the Canadian Reckies and re- quests for unfolded copies on heavy art mat board, ready for framing or to be used as a frieze, that a small edition has been printed and copies can be had at 50c. each; postpaid. Size—nine feet long by nine inches high. Department H, The National Geographic Magazine Sirteenth and M Sireels, Washington, D. C.y and every shaver satisfied ‘ ‘With Colgate's, you now have your choice of three methods Stick, Powder, or Cream. The result is the same, whichever you use; you get the perfect COLGATE'S | SHAVING LATHER Soltening, soothing, sanitary the blade. The most wiry beard yields quickly to Your skin is left with a sensation of coolness and comfort, Do not ill-treat your face or handicap your razor by using an inferior lather Trial size of Stick, Powe ‘ream ent for four cents COLGATE & CO,, Dept. 66, 199 Fulton St., New York PRESS OF JUD A BETWEILEN, Inc WASHINGTON, Bc.