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Fashion Draping Techniques PDF
Fashion Draping Techniques PDF
T ECHNIQUES
A STEP-BY-STEP VISUAL
GUIDE TO FASHION DESIGN
PRESENTED BY :
KHUSHBOO KHUNTWAL
B. Sc. FT. 1ST YEAR DIPLOMA
FASHION TECHNOLOGY
SUBMITTED TO
DEZYEN E’ COLE COLLEGE TOWARDS
PRACTICAL FULFILLMENT FOR THE AWARDS
OF
ADVNCE DIPLOMA IN FASHION TECHNOLOGY
SUBMITTED BY
KHUSHBOO KUHNTWAL
ADVANCE DIPLOMA IN FASHION TECNOLOGY
ADVISER
MADHURI TANDON
DEZYNE E’ COLE COLLEGE AJMER 2010-2011
BASIC BODICE BLOCK
NOTE: - The selvage is to your left hand and the torn edge is
to your right hand.
4. Using on l-square ruler, draw a perfect cross grain line in the
center of the fabric panel.
This cross grain line will be referred to as the bus level line.
1. Measure on the dress from the distance from the center
front to the apex. Measure and cross mark the apex this
distance the bust level of the fabric.
2. Measure from the apex to the side seam at the bust level on
the dress form. Measure and cross mark this side seam
distance on the bust level of the fabric.
3. Draw the center of the princess panel line. Divide in half the
distance from the apex to the side seam at the bust level.
Using an l-square ruler, draw a line parallel to the center
front grain line at this divided position squaring down from
the bust level.
1. Pin the apex mark on the fabric to the apex position on the
dress form.
2. Pin the center front grain line fold to the fabric to the center
front position of the dress form .Anchor pins at center front
and neck and center front waist. An additional pin may be
needed at the bust level tape.
1. Pin the center of the princess panel line of the fabric exactly
in the center of the princess panel of the dress form. Anchor
pins at the waist line and the cross grain. Align a pin the
from cross grain.
PRINCESS PANEL
1. Measure the length for the front and back panel (along the
straight of grain) from the neck band to the waist and add 5”
snip and tear the fabric this length.
2. Fold the fabric from selvage to selvage and snip and tear the
fabric piece in half length wise.
Use one piece for the front panels and the other piece for
the back panel.
1. Measure the width for the center front panel (along the
cross grain) from the center front of the dress from to the
princess seam at the apex, and add 4”.
Using one of the fabric pieces prepared in step 2, snip and
tear the fabric this width.
Use the remaining front piece for the side front panel.
2. Measure the width for the center back panel from the
center back of the dress from to the back princess seam at
the shoulder blade level.
And add 4”. Using the second fabric piece prepared in step 2
snip and tear the fabric this width.
Use the remaining back fabric piece for the side back panel.
3. Draw the grain line for the center front panel 1” from the
torn edge press under.
4. Draw the cross grain line for the front panel in the center of
the both panel.
5. Measure the dress form from center front to the apex,
measure and cross mark the apex this distance of the cross
grain line.
6. Draw the grain line for the center back panel 1” from the
torn edge. Press under.
Draw the grain line for the side back panel in the center of
the fabric piece.
7. Draw the cross grain line for both back panels 8” from the
top of the fabric edge.
THE PRINCESS BODICEBLOCK
DRAPING STEPS
CENTER FRONT PANEL
1. Pin the apex cross marks on the fabric to the apex position
on the dress from.
2. Pin the center front grain line fold of the fabric to the center
position of the dress from.
Anchor pins at center front neck and center front waist. An
additional pin may be needed at the bust level tape.
3. Drape the neck line trimming the excess fabric around the
neck area and clipping at intervals. Smooth the neck line in
place.
4. Drape and smooth the waist line place from center front to
just past the princess seam. Pin in place.
5. Mark all key area of the dress from on the center front
panel.
· Neck line
· Waist line
· Princess seam and style line
· Notches
· Shoulder seam
6. True up center front panel. Add seam allowance and trim all
excess fabric place panel back on the dress from.
SIDE FRONT PRINCESS PANEL
1. Pin the grain line of the side front panel to the center of the
front princess panel on the dress from matching the cross
grain of the side seam bust panel to the cross grain of the
center front panel.
Anchors pins on the cross grain at the bust level. Place
another anchor pin on the straight of grain at the waist line.
1. Clip the waist line at the center of the front princess panel
up to the bottom of the waist line seam tape.
Drape and smooth the waist line on place.
2. From the grain line to the side front panel smooth the fabric
past the side seam of the dress from do not allow the grain
line to slip out of position. Pin the side seam in place.
3. Drape the shoulder by carefully smoothing the excess fabric
above the bust level up and over the dress from.
NOTE: - The excess fabric will drape over the bust level area
creating ease at the princess seam between the notches.
5. Mark all key areas of the dress from on the side front panel.
Princess seam and style line notches (match the center front
panel notches)
Arm plate
Shoulder seam at ridge
Middle of plate at screw level
Bottom of plate at side seam
Shoulder seam
Side seam
Waist line
1. Remove the side front panel from the dress from and true
up all the lines. Add seam allowance.
Trim excess fabric, leaving all seams allowance. Pin to front
panel and return to check seam notches and balance.
2. Remove the center back panel drape from and true up all
lines. Add seam allowance trim all excess fabric, leaving all
seam allowance. Place this center back drape on the dress
from.
DRAPING STEPS
CENTER FRONT TORSO PRINCESS PANEL
1. Pin the open cross mark on the fabric to the open position
on the dress from.
2. Pin the center front grain line fold of the fabric on the center
position of the dress from. Anchor pins at center front neck
and center front hip. An additional pin may be needed at the
bust level tape.
3. Drape the neck line by trimming the excess fabric around
the neck area and clipping a intervals. Smooth the neck line
in place.
Drape and smooth the shoulder over the shoulder seam of
the dress from just past the princess seam. Pin in place.
4. Clip the waist line at the princess seam. Drape and smooth
the fabric of the center front panel just past the princess
seam.
NOTE: - The fabric at the waist line will be smooth but not
snug tight.
1. Mark all key areas of the dress from on the center front
panel.
Neck line
Princess seam and style line notches (2” above and below
open)
Shoulder seam
2. True up the center front panel. Add seam allowance trim all
excess fabric leaving. Place back on the dress from.
1. Pin the grain line of the side front panel to the center of the
front princess panel on the dress from notching the cross
grain of the side bust panel to the cross grain at the bust
level. Place another anchor pin on the straight of grain at the
waist line.
2. Clip the waist line at the side seam of the side front panel.
From the grain line of the side front panel. Smooth the fabric
past the side seam.
Continue to smooth the fabric flat over the arm plate. Do
not allow the grain line to slip out of position. Pin the side
seam in place.
1. Drape the shoulder by carefully smoothing the excess fabric
above the bust level up and over the shoulder of the dress
from.
DRAPING STEPS
SIDE FRONT TORSO PRINCESS PANEL
1. Pin the grain line of the side back panel to the center of back
princess panel on the dress form matching all cross grain at
the shoulder blade level.
2. Clip the waist line at the side seam. Drape and smooth fabric
past the side seam and flat over the dress form. Pin in place.
3. Drape the shoulder by smoothing the excess fabric from
above the shoulder blade level up and over the shoulder
seam of the dress form.
1. Pin the center back grain line fold of the fabric to the
center back position of the dress from.
Align and pin the cross grain to the shoulder blade level of
the dress from.
2. Drape and smooth the back neck line by carefully
trimming the excess fabric around the neck area and
clipping at intervals.
Continue to drape and smooth the shoulder over the
shoulder of the dress from and pin in place.
3. Clip the waist line at the princess seam. Drape and
smooth the fabric pat the princess seam and pin in
place.
Note: - The waist areas will drape smoothly. But will not be
snug tight.
1. Mark all key area of the dress form on the center back
panel.
- Neck line
- Shoulder seam
- Back princess seam and style line notches.
- (A double notch is used in back)
2. Remove the center back panel drape from the dress
form and true up all lines. Add seam allowance. Trim,
leaving all seam allowance. Place.
PREPARING THE
FRONT
1. Pin the center front grain line fold of the fabric on the center
front position of the dress from matching the cross grain of
the fabric to the hip level on the dress from.
2. Smooth and pin the cross grain to the fabric (evenly
distributing the ease) across the dress from to the side
seam.
Be sure the fabric cross grain is parallel to the floor and the
side seam match.
Pin the cross grain and side seam (below the hip level) to the
dress from.
3. Carefully drape and pin the front ¾” line to the side seam/
waist of the dress from.
NOTE: - When this side seam/ waist corner is draped
correctly, a slight gap will occur automatically at the side
seam above the hip level.
4. Drape in two darts at the front waist line. Smooth the fabric
from the center front to the princess seam.
Cross mark the waist line at the princess seams. Drape in the
first dart (one half of the excess fabric) on the princess seam
line.
Measure over on the waist line 11/4” from the first dart.
Place a second cross mark at this position clip the waist line
and drape in the second dart (the remaining half of the
excess fabric) at this second cross mark.
1. Remove the fabric from the dress form laid this drape flat on
a table. If you are planning to true up the fabric on to paper.
Complete the following steps –
A) Draw in a straight grain line and the cross grain at the hip
level on to pieces of paper.
B) Re measure the hip and ½” ease. Transfer this
measurement to the paper. Draw a side seam line at this
position parallel to the grain line. (Do this for both the
front and back skirt)
C) Place the fabric drape on top of the paper matching the
straight grain and the cross grain and hip level. The side
seam line should match automatically.
D) With a trace wheel, transfer the waist line, darts, and side
seam marking on to the paper.
1. Draw a short 90” angle at –
1) Center front waist (1/2”)
2) Center back waist (1”)
2. Draw the front and back waist dart –
1) Locate the center of each dart.
2) Using a straight ruler, draw a line for the center of each
dart parallel to the grain line and the length of the
desired dart at vanishing point (3 ½” for the from dart
and 5 ½” for the back dart)
3) Using a straight ruler. Complete drawing the reminder of
the dart. Draw the outer edges of the dart from the
vanishing point to the waist line cross mark.
3. Draw the side seam. Using a hip curve ruler place the
straight part of this ruler to the side seam/waist corner and
the side seam (as illustrated).
4. Draw the waist line. Fold and pin in the waist dart. With the
darts folded in place. Use the hip curve ruler and draw in the
waist line.
NOTE: - At this time, match and walk front and back bodies
waist to the skirt waist. When a bodice
Is being attached to the skirt. Waist line should be the same
distance when all darts are folded closed.
5. Check side seam-
1. Pin the front of back side seam together. Matching
cross grain at the hip level.
Measure the side seam form the hip level to the waist line. These
measurements should be the same if they
1. are not. Adjust the back waist line. Side seam corner to
match the front measurement.
CHECK LIST
1. A carefully checking and fitting of the finished drape
serves as several purposes. It may show in accuracy in
fit and any changes or correction can be made at this
time.
1. Front and back grain line should be straight.
2. Front and back cross grain should be perfectly level
to the floor.
3. Hip level ease evenly distributed.
4. All tarred line has the correct amount if seam allow.
5. The overall look of the drapes is near and cleans.
6. Dare the pinned in place to the vanishing point.
1. Drape side seam in alignment of the dress form side
seam.
2. The drape is correctly balanced. The front of the
design is in the front and the back of the design is in
the back.
3. It hangs freckly on all seam line.
1. Measure the lengths for the front and back drape (along the
straight of grain) from the neck band to the hip level and
add 5” snip and tear the fabric this length.
2. Measure the width for front and back drape (along the cross
grain) from the center of the dress from to the wrist level of
the arm. Snip and tear the fabric this width.
3. Draw the grain lines for the front and back kimono 1” from
the turn edge press under.
1. Draw two cross grain for the front and back kimono.
1. Draw the first cross grain line 11” from the top edge of
the fabric this indicates the bust level line.
2. Draw the second cross grain line 14” from the first cross
grain line; this indicates the hip level line.
2. Draw in the back side seam at the hip level measure from
the center back to the side seam and add ½” for ease.
Transfer this measurement to the fabric. Using this mark
draw a side seams perfectly parallel to the center back grain
line.
3. Draw in the front side seam. At the hip level measurements
from the center front to the side seams and add ½” for ease.
Transfer this measurement to the fabric. Using this mark
draw a side seam. Perfectly parallel to the center front grain
lines.
DRAPING STEPS
Pin the center front grain line fold of the fabric, on the center
front position of the dress from. Be sure the cross grain is at the
bust level. Anchor pins at center front neck
1. and center front hip. An additional pin may be needed at the
bust level.
2. Smooth and pin the cross grain of the fabric across the dress
from to the side seam. Pin the side seam to side seams of
the dress from.
Be sure the fabric cross grain are parallel to the floor and
side seams match.
3. Pin the shoulder / neck area in to position by trimming the
excess fabric, around the neck area and smoothing the
fabric flat over the shoulder / neck area.
4. Mark the key area of the dress from corner and the shoulder
ridge.
Ø Side seam 11/2” below the arm plate.
Ø Side seam at the waist line.
5. Remove the fabric drape from the dress from and true up
the neck line and side seam and draft the kimono sleeve.
Ø Raise the shoulder line ½” following this slant
PEGGED SKIRT
The peg skirt makes hard line news usually for evening or format
ware this skirt is flattering and quite feminism and usually
departs out of soft pliable fabrics.
The peg skit is easily recognized by its following fullness over the
hip area which is formed by dropping deep folds drawn into the
waist line. At the same time the lower edge is drown back into
the body allowing movement with case and freedom. A
beautifully draped peg skirt depends largely on the skill of the
drapes.
DRAPING STEPS
1. Pin the center back grain line fold of the fabric on the center
back position of the dress form.
2. Life of hold the top edge of the fabric, Pin the center front in
this bias position to the dress form.
The under arm/side seam cowl drape produces softly curved bias
fold at the underarm seam. The fabric is placed on the true bias
and is draped without a side seam. The under arm/side seam
cowl is effective on a soft drape without working over done. It
after design inspiration for soft and fluid fabric, crate a mood of
easy elegance.
Determine the depth of the under arm cowl desired place a pin
on the dress form at this under arm/side seam position. Also, the
desired shoulder/ arm hole position.
1. Pin the fabric on the dress form at the under arm side seam
pin. Position & match the bias line at the fold line to the side
seam pin & the dress form.
2. Drape the shoulder form the cowl by holding the fabric at
the fold line fabric edge and swing the fabric up on to the
shoulder’s place anchor pin’s at this shoulders position.
NOTE: - It will be necessary to from pleats and the shoulder
to help from clean even folds, the deeper the side seam
cowl.
3. Clip the fabric on the side seam from the bottom & the bias
line, up to the waist line. Pin the bias line & the fabric to the
side seam/waist position & the dress form.
4. Smooth and drape the fabric past the center frontline will
the grain of the fabric is parallel to the center from of the
dress from.
1. Arm cowl fold line determines the width & shaped of the
desired facing amount. Smooth and drape the fabric past
the center back line will the cross grain of the fabric is
parallel to the center back the dress form.
2. Clip of pin in place the waist line for the front of back.
NOTE: - Another pleat will probably from at the shoulder.
3. Clip the front of back neck lines of drape in the shoulder.
NOTE – Another pleat will probably from at the shoulder.