CAMPING IN THE COLORADO ROCKIES John Warren Richardson October 21, 1898 Part One (pp. 1-10)CAMPING IN THE COLORADO ROOKIES. It was the afternoon of the thirtieth of August (98 that a covered wagon drawn by a pair of stout norses and packed with all the necessary supplies.and camp fixtures for a trip of several weeks started from Boulder, Colorado, up Boulder canon bound for the, to us, unknown country “over the range." uy e anions will be known in this story as Mr. B. and Clark. Nightfall found us near Nederland. Improvising a shelter ty spreading a canvas over the projecting tent pole at the rear of our wagon, we lay down in our tlankets, and tried to sleap, but without mich success owing to the strangeness of our sur- roundings and the continual flapping of the canvas in the wind, In the morning we resumed our Journey up and down over @ rough road with steep grades to Black Hawk, whose many ore mills were noisy with the continual dropping of mundreds of stampa,- on through Central,’ continuation of Black Hawk, up Russell Gulch, a most desolate looking place, (every roa of the ground naving been washed over for gold, ) down Virginia Gulch, making a descent of dropped into it, snap vent tho axletree, b wood, near the middle, ‘The circle plate which was bolted on the top aud a nut on the King-bolt below, prevented its dropping en- tirely dom, and after a brief consultation we decided that me pest and only thing to be done was to lighten the load by ell getting out and proceeding on foot. We formed a curious process- jon in the gathering darkness, Mr. B. end Clerx going ehead to look out for badger holes and gullies which might further wreck ouf wagon, and lastly myself with the reins, stumbling over the sagebrush which was waist high close to tho wheel tracks. Day- light gone, we lighted ow lentern which helped us materially, ani trudged on ani on, hoping to see s light or some sign of humn habitation. We would have stopped snd camped for thé night, put there was no water, or suitable place to pitch our tent. All were growing very weary and the miles seemed endl At lest we caw a wire fence at ona side of the road. A welcome light ina window appeared, three dogs rushed out with noisy barking, and we came toe helt in front of a long, lowy log house. Inquiry revealed the fact that the ower ameaiitiiiy-- weed ‘wmpe. away, but the man in charge, @ little solf-importent Duteh- =21-man, said we could have a stable ami feed Zor our horses, and sleep on the kitohen floor. There was a good fire in the stove, a teakettle full of hot water, end efter having some toa and lunch, the day's experiences were fagotten insleep. It was ten .M. when we went to bed, and we found by inquiry that we had walked ton miles since the axle broke. our new camp in Jack Rabbit Gulch was on a smooth, level spot near » spring, to which the range cattle and horaes cone daily im Groves to drink, as it wes the only watering place for many miles. The next day we hed the broken axletree repaired at 1 nearest blacksmith shop twenty-six miles away. Clark shot an antelope which came to ‘tho epring to drink. This gave US & Sup- ply of froch meat. By going eboubt two milee tack into the hille we could get firewood among the stunted cedare ani there wat rods si) plonty of eagetrush nearer by. Across the gulch # = a smell “dug-out" in the hillside, with en adobe front end roof of poles covered with carta, lived our ondy near neighbor, the sole resident of Jack Rabbit Gulch. Being an expert hunter, the deer, entclope ani grouse, furnished plenty of neat. 3y carefully managing his little-store of water he washed out enough golé from his placer Gaim to supply his uocessary wanto. He xcept two horses and hed Zor companions a cat and dog. He gave en interosting history of bis checkered career as tanchnen, freigh- ter end miner in Wyoming and the Dekotes in the days of Indian outoresks, and as a soldier in the regular ezmy. Text morning our horses which had been turned loose at night as ususl, were not in sight, but we did not think it ~22-strange as the same thing had happened before, and they had always appesred in the course of the forenoon th drink and be fed. Toon came and no horses, so we spent the afternoon in trying to find tracks in the ary sandy soil to indicate which but without éuccess. ie concluded thet thoy had teken one of ; ints the hard trédden cattle trails leading fvon the water tack acim the k ils. A shower of rain duri: the night mde it almost in- possible to distinguish fresh tracks from old ones, We omployod the borest ranchuan to taze his saddle horse and rideover the country to the south and west of our camp, and wo locked the ground over carefully on foot for a circle of about fifteen miles to the north and east. Mone of us fox @ eny trace that we felt sure of, but we agreed in the conclusion that they must have teken the cattle trails to the north, and were probably over the divide vy this time in the country whore we were a week ago. The pros- pect of finding them was uot very bright for it woulda be possible for them to go forty miles in any direction acroes the open country w thout being seen by any one. While locking for the horses ‘ one of ny companions we had @ distant view of cignt antelope; 6limv- ing a ridge with e steep bluff on the ferther side we looked down upon an antelope fawn lying apperently asleep. Hosring our voices, it sprang up, gave one surprised inquiring look, trotted leieure- ly swey for a few rods, stopped and look d again, then disappeared in the sagebrush. A peculiar thing happened one evening after my compan- ions had retired. Our neighbor who lived in ths dug-out near by “ned e cat which when we first settled in our tent came and estad-ished itself as one of our family, refusing to be sent away and staying with ue night and dey. This evening it was missing, and about ten P.M, as Isat writing alone by the dim light of @ can- le, there was 8 light scratching on the outside of the tent at the opening which had been tied up for the night. ‘Tainking that it wes our feline friend trying to get in, I loosened the fly and put out ay hand to take it inside. ly fingers closed upon something smooth and soft, and though it did not feel like a cat, I involuntarily pulled it through the open- ing, dropping it inetently whon I ey that it wea e plump brown lizerd about ten inches’long. A sudden ejacutston brought my con- penions out of their blankets in s hurry, and there was quite on excitement for a few minutes over the strange intruder. Our curiosity satisfied, the reptile was scooped up in a pan, and thrown as far as possible into the darkness. ext day about four P.M, we rejoiced to see our sesreh- ing party come riding down from the hills through the sagebrush driving our horses before them. Tney reported inding tracks crossing the divide, and following the trail the horees were found ime narrow valley whore there was some grass and a little watery They had evidently locsted themselves for the winter. In the morning all hands were up at four o'clock, and everything was packed and loaded ready for a start at seven forty. five. We decided to go to Craig and es much farther as possidle. I walked the first fow miles, taking e short out by an old trail ~24-over the hills to meet the wagon on the main road, while walking through a little valley, a herd of thirty deer came marching down the slope of a nill directly toward me, only two or three nundred yards away, On seeing me they stopped and looked for a few seconds with heads and ears erect, then turned and retPeated slowly up the nill. Happening to look around to the other side of the road, T saw on another hill still nearer, twenty more, all does and favns. It was a pretty sight, almost worth our entire journey. As I had no gun, they were allowed to depart unhurt. Reaching the main road just as the wgon came along, we pursued our without further incident and reached the post office at cri gat two P.M. hoping to find letters from hone, but were disappointed. Ye drove ten miles up the valley of tne Bear River to a hay and cattle ranch, where we pitched our tent and camped for the night. Soon after daylight four deer came down te the river to drink, waded across and went on their way southward. A pleasant ride of nine miles along the river side over a smooth road bra ght us to Hayden, a thriving little village with two stores, school- house, ete, After replentsning our supply of eatables, we followed @ H 5 4 ‘ew miles further, then took a road leading over @ nilly country, crossed the nearly dry bed of 8 came to a si rt of basin among the nills, called Twenty Mile Park, Passing through one corner of an to look for a place to camp, as the sun was fast ~25-sinking in the west. Soom we came in sight of a hay ranch with its log buildings in a field at quite a distance from the road. Finding a gate in the rosdside fence, we drove through the fiold across the ary bed of a creek to the house, The house was locked up, but some hens just going to roost, two horses fecd- ing near by, end an old three legged dog who kept up a furious barking, indi ated that the place was not wholly deserted. A pair of black pigs in a pen made it still more certain that some- one wowla put in an appearance in the morning, if not bofore. We pitched our tent, cut up a broken fence rail fo: fire od, and helped ourselves to hay for the horses, taking our chences for a peaceable settlement with the proprietor whenever he should appear. There was no weter to be found in the oresk, but we discovered a well near the house, fitted up, like elmost all wells in this part of the country, with « tin bucket attached to a piece of rope, and drew water enough for tho thirsty horses and ourselves, Supper eaten, end the horses provided for in one of the log stables, we were soon ssleep notwithstanding the inces+ sant barking of the old dog, who seemed to be trying to inform his absent master that something was: wrong about the premises. The proprietor was on hand in the morning, having arrived sometime during the night. A few words of explanation supplemented with half a dollar made everything saticfactory. Getting en carly stert, our course was scross country for severel miles to Middle Cree which we forded, and over more hills to Trout Creek, a nice, clear stream of cold water, which we ollowed ~26-on a wretched road, @ mere shelf out in the hillside, very narrow ani sidling, All the time we were making a gradual escent to higher ena more open ground et the north end of geria Park. Here the scenery which had been rathor uninteresting became grander and ore beautiful, Before entering the park, we passed e range of high hills, on whose sides end summits were immense ledges of sandstone in curious castellated forms. Sone of them resenbled massive fortifications and others were almost exact counterparts of pictures of ruined castles on the Rhine. The park is surrounded by mounteine with their summits whitened with snow. he nearez end lower hills are mostly of @ rounded contour, and of Light colored sandstone formation. Out of these sandstone hills at intervals shoot up great columnar masses of black basalt with clmost perpendicular sides, moking a sharp contrast, end giving a wierd sepect to the scenery. We passed Eeeria post office which is kept in e log house with @ front fence of olk horns, and soon arrived at Yampa, the princi- pel village of the park. Yampa is situated on a level plain, ith two stores, two saloons and two hotels, indicating it to be quite © summer resort. We saw several powboys riding repidly about, with fringed leather leggings reaching to the waist, fancy top boots withepurs, cartridge belts and pistols, and wide felt hats. A few miles farther on we passed by @ great obelisk of basslt, per- heps one hundred fect high, thirty feet wide and twenty feet thick. Tear it lay two massive fragments which had fellen from the to: Ss ~27-At a turn in the rosa crossed by little rivulet of clear mater fringed with dwarf willows we pitched our tent on a smooth grassy spot. Clark confiscated a stick from s neigh- Doring fence, and e good supper of potetoes, antelope steak, hot biscuits, coffee and apple butter was soon prepared and eaten, the horses fastened to a fence and fed, end everything made enmug for the night. We rose tefore four o'clock that we might have time to crogs the Gore Range by daylight, and get se fer as possible on our homeward way. Just before lighting the fire, a sudden wind squall struck the tont, pulling several pins from the ground, blowing in one side of it, end for a.few mimites it required lively work to prevent its being blown away altogether. It ms quite exciting for © time and we nerrowly escaped serious wreck. The weather had changed suddenly in the night, the aly was thickly overcast, and there was overy indication of an ap- proaching storm. The prospect was not encouraging. An unknown road lay before us over a rough mountain range with the probabil- ity of being overtaken by a driving snow storm, But we were home- werd bound and decided to teke the chences. Within tw hours it begen to snow and before we reached the summit it was taree inches deop, very damp end aticky, Yor- tunately there was but little wind, but the clouds ani mist were so thick about us that we could see nothing of the scenery. Our progress was slow snd weerisome, 4t length the sumiit was passed, and we descended over a crooked, uteop and rocky road, winding ~28-through thick timber. In some places it was hard to see the track on account of the nowly fallen snow. About the middle of the efter- noon we cone to & mountain ranch, end as it was several miles to tho next stopping place, still snowing, and the horses very tired, we decided to go no further, Interviewing the owner, we found thet we could have stable room for the horses, and the use of an empty log houseZor ourselves. The furniture of the house consieted of 2 guall cooking stove, a rude table and two benches to sit on. ie swept it out with a borrowed broom, spread our blankets on the floor, and passed e very comfortable night. The morning was clear and.cola. We had still enother high mountain pses to climb, end every day's delsy increesed the danger of being viodkded by snow. At noon we pesaed through the Little hamlet of Kremlink, where we lunched, end an hour or two Inter came to the post office called ‘lroublesome", near the junction of Troublesome Creck with The rest of the wa; the Grani + Sulphur Springs the road followed the Grand. Yor a mile before reaching Hot § Springs the road is built along the side of a narrow gorge through which the river rushes as if impatient of confinement to the narrow channel, Just as we ontered it, the clouds which had been hang- ing over us ell dsy settled down, ant snow fell fast and furiously. Ag we rode elong the narrow road with rooks overhanging on one side, the river rosring over its rocky bed from fifty to one hun- dred feet below on the other, the storm howling about ua and derimess fest coming on, the scene was one so wildly grend that it will net soon be forgotten. Coming out of this dness ond grossing the bridge’ over the river, we found ourselves in tho town ~B9-of Hot Sulphur Springs and once more on familier ground. Of course camping out ves not to be thought of. Cold and hungzy, we were glad to seek the shelter of the livery steble for our horses, and the hotel with its warmth ani good cheer for ourselves. We were glad to get hold of newspapers once more, as we had seen none for three weeks. It was very pleasant to go to sleep ins good soft bed for the first time aince leaving home six weeks before. The morning was brigat, but snow squalls were in sight all about on the mountains. Passing over long hills, level, stony pleins crossed at intervals by clear streams, we came to the fvot of the Continental Divide, the last high barrier between us and home, which must be climbed by way of Berthoud Pass. The mount- eins were beautiful as the afternoon sunlight fell on their snowy robes checkered with derk green forests of spruce. If we our plan to reach Spruce Lodge before nightfall, as this is the only stopping place below the summit. After begiming the ascent we camo to snow, and before reachtl g.cur destination it was fully eight inches deep. Tho road was full of mud and slush, an? there were long stretches of worn out corduroy which made our progress slow. It was dark before we reached Spruce Lodge. Toward evening it grew quite cold, ani horses, harness and wagon were covered with frozen mud. Again we elept in the same log house which hed proviously sheltered us. After an early breexfast we reached the summit in ebout ‘to hours and for the second time stood on the top of tne Contin 350-ontel Divide eleven thousand five hundred feet above the see. The snow was from eight to ten imhes deep, and the road which had been partially trodden the dey before, was frozem hard. On our way down we met several teams whose drivere anxiously inquired how deep the snow Was on the pass. Coming down to Eupire, pushing on through Beaumont, va1t River®7daano Springs to the foot of Bloya Hill, we camped for the night on the bank of Olear Greck Our noxt and last deys ride through Golden and Marshall brought us lete at night to home and friends, had boen away fifty-two days, crossed five mountein ranges, over passes only one of which is less then eleven thousand feet high, and over several high divides. We camped beside streams some of whioh find their way to the Atlantic by the Gulf of Mexico, ani others to the Pacific by the Gul? of Celifornis. There were deys in which we found plenty of clear running water, ani others where there was not a drop Zit to drink. We passed through dense forests of the finest timber, along rich bottom lends with their wealth of cattle, hey and grein, and over wide tracts bare of all vegetation except sagebrush and greasewood. Our route took us through scenery of every description,- barren desolation, quiet deeuty, and wild grandeur, We saw whole mountain sides swept by forest fires, whose smoke ovsoured the sun, We found plenty of game, deer, antelope, coyotes, badgers, sage hens and prairie dogs. For weeke wo ete our fill of mountain™ trout and venison, and the life in the open air kept ue in vigorous health, <#1-